/3DPG/

[Anonymous No.1987359]

Pray For Anon's Cat Edition
Old thread: >>1984820
All the info you need about 3D-printing: Pastebin MIA, Need Backup Copy

>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-series, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks, Fusion360, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is your best bet.

[Anonymous No.1987374]

>>1987359
first for my kitty might make it and I'll gladly will pay the 3.5k€ that I got for an estimate so far

[Anonymous No.1987375]

>sad enderfag noises

[Anonymous No.1987384]

>>1987359
>>Where can I get free things to print?
>https://www.thingiverse.com/
Why did the OP still include thingiverse? It's utterly broken for over half a year now. Things you publish don't appear at all, search malfunctions (if you're lucky, for else it returns no results), browsing is impossible for page above 3 (sometimes 5), tech support is nonsense, etc.
It better be replaced with prusaprinters or cults.

[Anonymous No.1987397]

I asked about the printrbot adoptabot last thread wondering if it's a viable design and it seems there's a handful (literally 2 or 3) people that have print it/last built it a few years back. Seems to print pretty well for what it is.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gyj8KFB4tcM

[Anonymous No.1987402]

>>1987359
Goodnight sweet kot

[Anonymous No.1987414]

>>1987397
It's an interesting kinematics setup to say the least, by removing the buildplate you can fit it into a very small space.
I don't really like how the bed attaches only at one end, I don't think that will be a very repeatable attaching method and implementing a heated bed would be pretty difficult.

[Anonymous No.1987421]

>>1987414
there's a "scoop" like plastic bit under the aluminum plate that adds some rigidity but I agree with the bed attaching only at one end. It's completely open source though so modifying the design should be trivial. The whole idea behind it was for it to be a minimum viable product that could be reproduced cheaply and used for education. If it works halfway decently I could see making a few of these and gifting them to some nieces/nephews so they can printout some trinkets here and there. Maybe construct an incredibly cheap/limited print farm with them.

[Anonymous No.1987422]

know nothing about 3d printing and cad. out of the two in the op, which cheap under $250 printer would you go with if you are a burger and what do you wish you knew getting into printing? also what filament would you get that is cheap for learning but isn’t complete shit

[Anonymous No.1987425]

>>1987422
ender3 v2, look for a local 3d printing supply shop to source your filament

[Anonymous No.1987430]

>>1987422
I picked up an Anycubic Mega Zero recently for $109 which is basically a Chinese clone of the Chinese Ender 3 which you could argue is a clone of the Prusa I3. The main drawback is the lack of a heated bed. It can be modded in but it's not an option by default. The aluminum bed also came slightly warped but flashing marlin on to it and creating a manual bed leveling mesh took care of that. For the price, it can't be beat IMHO.

[Anonymous No.1987431]

installed a titanium heatbreak and it or the nozzle starts to clog at roughly the same position afterprinting the first part perfectly fine
wasted almost a half spool of petg to figure it out
printing at 240C no partsfan
only thing i did was set probe points from 3 to 5 per row and adjust bed and cartridge PID
extruder is "direct/reallyreallyshort bowden" with minimal retraction
the print is a circle with 2.3" diameter 100%infill and the clogging starts always at 1.4 to 2.5"...
kind of stuck here ,any ideas ?

[Anonymous No.1987433]

Question for resinfags; how bad do you let your FEP get before you swap it? Setting up for a print and can't decide if pic related is bad rnough to warrant it. It only has maybe 10-15 prints on it (some failures).

[Anonymous No.1987435]

>>1987422
Just up your budget to 350$ and buy a prusa mini kit. Its not worth it to fuck with chinkshit if you dont know what you are doing and literally need to mod every piece of component to make it reliable.

[Anonymous No.1987437]

>>1987431
fuck me its late already...
>1.4 to 2.5"...
HEIGHT
and printing in PETG...
:-(

[Anonymous No.1987440]

>>1987422
>what do you wish you knew getting into printing?
leave your shit entirely stock until youre tired of PLA.
No shitty mods! At beginner knowledge this is a bottomless pit where you end up worse than you started. A hand of zip ties on the wire harness is enough of an upgrade.

if your bed is warped, RMA it instead of sinking money into the machine

[Anonymous No.1987449]

>>1987433
Your FEP is scratched to hell and back, and those long "dents" aren't doing you any good either

[Anonymous No.1987466]

clogged sometime just past the 24 hour mark.

it's fine though, I think the ironing setting was ruining the top finish and it will be much easier keeping these in their proper order if I do one row at a time anyway, now that I know how to do that.

[Anonymous No.1987478]

>>1987466
You may get better detail on the top by printing the keys on its side. Unless you like the rigid feel of it.

[Anonymous No.1987481]

>>1987329
Surely there are some options around 500-600$ that deliver the same or better performance.
The Prusa Mk3 is so expensive because the 5oyboy in charge doesn't want to set up proper production of the plastic parts or cut out the middle man and deal with China directly.
>m-muh printed in house parts because injection molding evil
>muh locally sourced materials from chinkshit resellers
You pay 1000$ but you get maybe 400$ of value. I'm not saying you should get an Ender 3. I'm just saying don't buy into this scam

[Anonymous No.1987484]

>>1987478
The models are curved slightly on all sides but otherwise that's not a bad idea. I've just resigned myself to a lot of sanding.

[Anonymous No.1987534]

>>1987466
Why do you want to print them all at once?

[Anonymous No.1987556]

>>1987534
I didn't know how to separate the model when I started it.

After clearing the clog everything prints like a greasy lumpy mess. How long until that stops? I assume there's just baked crap in the nozzle yet.

[Anonymous No.1987570]

>>1987556
Is your hotend assembled properly? see pic related, the nozzle has to be butted against the heat break or the teflon tube, depending on which type of hotend you have.
There is a split tool in prusaslicer with which you can split your models.
Also, I recommend you go out and buy a genuine E3D V6 hotend so you wont have issues anymore in the future.

[Anonymous No.1987582]

getting ready to make several consecutive 25 hour prints of components that need to fit together, as a first 24+ hour print project
the pucker factor is high, but I've been on a good streak with brims and heat tolerance so I think my settings will be fine

[Anonymous No.1987603]

>>1987582
apparently I have about 100g left over if everything goes spot on, so I'll print from shortest to tallest

[Anonymous No.1987607]

>>1987481
>yeah, let's just buy another set of injection-molding dies every time we want to iterate
Those things are expensive as fuck, it has nothing to do with 'injection molding evil' or whatever-the-fuck you're on

[Anonymous No.1987610]

>>1987481
Its not a coincidence that almost every single chinese 3d printer is a cheap copy of some prusa model since prusa is the one that comes with the new designs and tech that actually work in consumer level printers and software. I happily put my money where the innovations takes place and the profits dont drop into the pockets of some lazy ass chinks. If you never owned a prusa machine you just dont know all the little things that separate them from cheap copies that cut corners everywhere and let the customer finish their shitshow with mods and firmware flashes. Its really refreshing feel to buy a product that is working out of the box and have a actual customer support behind it.

[Anonymous No.1987617]

>>1987607
I don't know what the fuck you're on about dude, they don't change the designs every month. The MK3S has been sold for how many years now?
This whole "look at me guise I'm 3D printing 3D printers" is just a marketing stunt that got out of hand.

>>1987610
Call me when Prusa makes more than just their tried and true bed slinger and its stillborn sibling.
Creality has brought more innovation to the 3D printing world than the 5oyboy with his iPhone grade 3D printers.
>bed slingers of all shapes and sizes, even a fuckhuge 45*45cm
>cube frame printers
>corexy
>now a belt printer too

>inb4 Creality shill
I could say the same to you about Prusa.

[Anonymous No.1987621]

>>1987617
Yeah, it's expensive to do research when you're not an organ of a national socialist government with access to hundreds of millions of slave labourers

[Anonymous No.1987646]

my cr10 build plate and carriage are warped to fuck. I hammered the worst of it out of the carriage plate by putting a 2x4 under and over the metal, so I was only smacking the wood and applied pressure to the top plate with a bit of old sweet reason.

what is a good, magnetic and spring steel build plate thingy that isn't crazy fucking expensive, or shipping that costs $30 for the cheapest option.

[Anonymous No.1987648]

>>1987431
You're using capricorn tubing right? Does the top of the heatbreak feel reasonably cool during printing?

[Anonymous No.1987651]

>>1987617
That only brings more troubles when they have too many irons in the fire. Pushing bunch of unfinished products out that will most likely flop is not a good bussiness strategy.

[Anonymous No.1987671]

>>1987570
The hose looks pretty hacked up and I couldn't get it to depth when I tried to put it back together so I just installed the spare. We'll see if that helps. Any more trouble and I'll probably have to look into upgrades. No sense in a 300x300x400 build space if it can't run for over 24 hours.

I also defaulted all my slicer settings in case I accidentally enabled some obscure print ruining thing.

[Anonymous No.1987674]

Only took 7 iterations to get it right!

[Anonymous No.1987676]

>>1987671
aw yeah printing like a dream now

[Anonymous No.1987694]

If I wasn't such a brainlet whenever I tried to look at code, I would make a program that added filigree or other patterns automatically to stl files.

Honestly, what's the point of having your own cup/knife/phone holder if it looks like the same mass produced plastic junk from the dollar tree?

[Anonymous No.1987700]

>>1987694
Learn some 3d modeling and modify the models. It's not hard.

[Anonymous No.1987713]

i got my first clogged nozzle and broken filament
do i remove the shroud, heat up the nozzle, use 2 wrenches (one on the block and one on the nozzle) to remove the nozzle and then clean and reassemble?

[Anonymous No.1987724]

Just lost five hours of work to a crash on Inventor 2019 after having forgotten to save the main assembly for some time, the funny thing is that what triggered the crash was me pressing the "save" button.
I hate this piece of crap software, how is it that this thing still does not have an autosave function even though it would be extremely warranted due to the frequent crashes? I get around one crash per 6 hours of work and it's infuriating
Just wanted to vent.

[Anonymous No.1987726]

>>1987724
>using autodesk software

[Anonymous No.1987733]

>>1987726
My organization got it half free so what can you do...

[Anonymous No.1987734]

>>1987733
be chad and pirate solidworks or be a autist and code everything in matlab

[Anonymous No.1987735]

>>1987713
Yes.

[Anonymous No.1987736]

>>1987734
That's not how it works when many people work in the same project and same assembly lol

[Anonymous No.1987738]

>>1987736
>not working for Autism inc, LLC, S-Corp, 501.c3

[Anonymous No.1987748]

>>1987735
thanks
that gives me the little boost i need to go for it

[Anonymous No.1987786]

Hi fags I'm looking to get into 3d printing..
Which version of the ender 3 is the best price/performance ratio?
From videos I've watched ender vs ender pro doesn't have too many differences and prints the same quality, but how do these compare to the new v2 version of them.

Dont bother shilling me some other printers I'm only looking to spend that 150-250 and the ender 3 is spoken highly of everywhere

[Anonymous No.1987825]

>>1987786
Ender 3 Pro or V2

[Anonymous No.1987828]

>>1987825
To expand on that, Ender 3 Pro and V2 has 4040 beam on its Y axis (supporting the bed) while the Ender 3 only has 2040, half of the width Y axis support extrusion and the bed (moving on Y axis) is much more wobbly.
Pro and V2 are much more stable and the prints are cleaner

[Anonymous No.1987844]

WHY

[Anonymous No.1987846]

>>1987433
That's fine.

[Anonymous No.1987882]

>>1987828
Ah ok I see thanks.
May I ask what are the differences in the ender pro and the v2? Is there a ender pro v2 as well?

[Anonymous No.1987889]

>>1987724
Alright that's the second fucking crash today fuck this piece of shit software.

[Anonymous No.1987893]

>>1987889
Whoops managed to replicate the crash lol

[Anonymous No.1987914]

>>1987648
thanks but i can't tell because the tubing is a 2.5" long straight piece from the "direct drive extruder" through the cooling block, sitting inside of a little cavity in the heatbreak
from there the filament goes about 1.5" through the heatbreak and into the heaterblock/nozzle where it gets melted.
therefor i cant touch/measure the top of the heatbreak. there are quick connectors screwed inside the cooling block though which i measured and they were around 30C (+/- 1-3°) with an IR thermometer

going to disassemble the whole hotend assembly later and take some pictures if i find something out of the ordinary.
thinking about powering up the thermal cartridge with only the heatbreak and the nozzle inside the heater block and measuring the temp with the IR thermometer...

[Anonymous No.1987919]

>>1987844
What the fuck have you been doing to that poor bed?

[Anonymous No.1987951]

>>1987431
>>1987570
see this post

[Anonymous No.1987968]

I'll post here as well
How long will PLA last outside in direct sunlight if it has been sprayed with UV resistant clearcoat? I'm most interested in color retention but becoming brittle and weak isn't good either.

[Anonymous No.1987974]

>>1987401
It's a bit more than tossing out the failures...
the only thing the copies are identical in is the outside appearence.

[Anonymous No.1987982]

>>1987968
Not long if it stays outside all day everyday. Use petg, it also does not melt so easily in hot places.

[Anonymous No.1987991]

>>1987982
I mean ASA is what I will probably get if not PLA but I do wonder how PETG measures up.

[Anonymous No.1987992]

>>1987844
chinkshit, that's why
I have a creality glass bed and all of a sudden it started to chip, leaving flakes of glass stuck to the underside of my prints.
>inb4 it was PETG
It wasn't, and that's what baffles me. When I printed PETG it didn't chip despite it sticking to the bed real well. It started chipping after a fucking ABS print, which I always struggle to get it to stick well enough to not leave the bed.

[Anonymous No.1987993]

>>1987974
>cheap chinese nozzles vs quality chinese nozzles
Wow, who would expect that difference?

[Anonymous No.1988002]

>>1987466
you could try non planar printing for a better top surface finish

it's takes a bit of testing but it's defo worth it imo, especially for something you'll feel allot.

[Anonymous No.1988003]

>>1987694
Try mesh mixer and turn images into bump maps and use the stencil tool its surprisingly easy

or do like anon said and learn some basic 3d modeling

[Anonymous No.1988007]

>>1988002
The rough texture probably feels alright tho

[Anonymous No.1988061]

>>1988002
that's a good idea. I was wondering if something like that was possible.

[Anonymous No.1988064]

Thoughts on onshape?

[Anonymous No.1988073]

>>1988064
>delivered over the Internet via a Software as a Service model

[Anonymous No.1988077]

it's possible to print PLA without heated bed on a standard ender 3 pro?

[Anonymous No.1988080]

>>1987466

I think that for the best possible feeling you should post process the pieces.

Just increase the number of top layers and then sand the top.
Remember that blowing the pieces with a tourch, or even a simple lighter, for a couple of seconds once ready will fix the color.

[Anonymous No.1988082]

>>1987993

Chinese manufacturers can be excellent.

[Anonymous No.1988085]

>>1988080
I will end up sanding them, yes. I also torched some of those first attempt keys pictured and it cooks out the metallic lustre before it smooths out the layers. If you mean torching after sanding that's an idea but certainly not "a couple of seconds," they'd be mush.

How many extra top layers are necessary for sanding?

[Anonymous No.1988087]

>>1988085

About blowing, just the time to remove the discoloration. You shouldn't make anything soft.

About sanding. To smooth the surface completery you have to remove at least one layer thickness with sand paper. I suggest you to use adaptive layer height, go as thin as possible for the top layers, then smooth the surface almost perfectly with something like 80 sand paper. At this point you should have removed almost one top layer in height and I suggest to complete the process with a 140. At this point you will have to go further for polishing, or at least to give the ruface the finiscing you want.
That sayd I think that two extra top layers would be enought.

[Anonymous No.1988094]

>>1987674
Phone holder?

[Anonymous No.1988110]

>>1988094
A gay phone holder.

[Anonymous No.1988115]

>>1987435
What are you talking about, friendo? I'm a dirty third worlder so I bought an Ender 3 because its price/performance isn't matched by many. It works and prints really well. I run it stock but in the future I'll add some mods to it.

[Anonymous No.1988118]

>>1987674
Is seven the magic number? When I desing in CAD and print, I always get it right the seventh time lmao

[Anonymous No.1988119]

>>1988077
Of course, I've done it in the past. Make sure to not print big stuff without a heated bed because it will unglue off the bed.

[Anonymous No.1988123]

>>1987889
Is it crashing on other PC's your company uses (assuming you're not all using the same model)?

[Anonymous No.1988125]

>>1988061
It's still pretty underdeveloped and very limited by the geometry of your typical printer.
Can't wait until 5+ axis printers are commonplace so that we can really take advantage of non-planar printing.

[Anonymous No.1988126]

>>1988064
Don't bother.

[Anonymous No.1988150]

>>1988125
If the CR-30 wasn't so damn expensive that would be a good solution too.

[Anonymous No.1988210]

>when you just need a simple cap for your xacto but also have a 3D printer

[Anonymous No.1988211]

>>1988150
Making the plane a 45 degree angle doesn't make it non-planar.

[Anonymous No.1988221]

>>1988211
but it gives the top curves of the keys more resolution for a smoother finish.

[Anonymous No.1988223]

>>1988221
Oh, for that sure.
You might need some support structures for the side, though.

[Anonymous No.1988228]

>>1988223
nah it's still only 45°

[Anonymous No.1988272]

petg was a mistake

long live ABS

[Anonymous No.1988279]

>>1988272
>being this wrong
durable and easy to print
what would you want more

[Anonymous No.1988281]

>>1988279
The easy to print part. Fuck petg, and fuck (you).

I don't know though. Perhaps the brand I tried is just shit. I ordered another roll from some other brand, I'll see if I have better luck with it.

[Anonymous No.1988285]

>>1988281
I print with pla for indoor tabletop stuff.
But everything else i print with petg, never had a problem, multiple star wars helmets, never a major problem

[Anonymous No.1988287]

So I printed the shell for this iris keyboard but now I'm finding out that the latest revision of the PCB doesn't fit in the version I made, aka the only version that showed up in Thingiverse's search. Apparently you have to read all the comments to find out if there's a new revision made by someone else that the search didn't index and/or they're hosting the files on github instead. What an awful website.

[Anonymous No.1988293]

>>1988285
What's your printer?

When I try it, the filament sticks to the nozzle too much, there's too much stringing no matter how much I tweak the retraction, and there's blobs that ooze out of the nozzle when it's moving that sticks around random strings creating branches. It's basically hell for anything that is not a one piece print.

Meanwhile, for ABS, I set the bed for 100°, make sure it's level, and tell it to print. I have my printer in a closet (lmao) and it just works.

[Anonymous No.1988299]

>>1988293
I use a Prusa Mk3s, 240° Nozzle 90° Bed

[Anonymous No.1988309]

ABSMR
ABS is the number one plastic used for a reason, where as PET is used for water bottles and those that get all their advice from 3dp youtubers.

[Anonymous No.1988327]

>>1988309
ABS needs an enclosure that is just not practical for bedslingers

[Anonymous No.1988335]

>>1988327
Cardboard box can get my shitty i3 to 45c air temp at the top of the gantryZ

Otherwise if your serious about printing abs, build a box frame printer and slap some panels on it.

[Anonymous No.1988337]

>>1988094
Yeah, one of those "adult baby mobile" adjustable arms on my bed, but my phone with case and clip never fits in them. Was thinking of making my own whole arm, but I was too lazy to see if flex would be an issue or getting some dowels/rods to get the distance.

[Anonymous No.1988342]

>>1987648
>>1987951
many thanks !
yes it is assembled properly its basically exactly as in the image of >>1987570
Have spend the last hours or so "semi automatically" levelling the bed because i suspected something being wrong mechanically.
Don't know why but for some reason it felt like the nozzle was digging into the layer.
In the end i am still not 100% sure what it may have caused, but i noticed the automatic Z-adjustment was working a lot while doing X and Y moves so i probed the bed a couple of times and now its below one hundredth of a millimeter at all probing points (see picture) and i cant even see the Z-adjust moving at all (at least with my eyes).

Long story short, it works now, just passed the 6.5mm mark in height, tomorrow i just have to disasseble the whole thing and measure the temp at the top of the thermal break just to make sure i dont toast my tubing when i turn up the temperature.
Again, thanks for the help :D

[Anonymous No.1988379]

>>1988337
Why the fuck would you make one?

[Anonymous No.1988393]

>>1988342
looks like i celebrated too early
it failed again
same appearance on the surface of the print...
guess its time to disassemble the hotend after all

[Anonymous No.1988420]

>>1988327
>ABS needs an enclosure
t. PETG shill
You can print without an enclosure just fine provided you eliminate any and all sources of air currents that could cool down your part quickly. It will still warp, but much less, somewhere around the warping you'd expect from PLA.
PETG is pretty good too, but not for every application. There's also the very important matter of A E S T H E T I C S. PETG has a shiny surface, ABS is matte.

[Anonymous No.1988465]

>>1988393
>same appearance on the surface of the print...
like same place? are you sure the file isn't corrupt?

[Anonymous No.1988499]

>>1988342
Keeping the temp low at the top of the heatbreak is not so much about protecting the tube, that is going to be butted against the nozzle so it's taking the full heat anyway. It's more to avoid the plastic melting too early and forming a big viscous plug inside the tube that stops more filament from coming in.

[Anonymous No.1988541]

>>1988126
>>1988073
What are some better options for parametric design?

[Anonymous No.1988542]

>>1988541
My default suggestion is always SolidWorks.

[Anonymous No.1988572]

Alright so it didn't occur to me that the stem for these keycaps has a really tight tolerance to grab the switch but not break (which is very easy). And there seems to be a great deal of difference in elephant foot accross the plate making the correct dimensions very hard to hit.

The only solutions I can think of are running one key at a time in the same exact spot or using a raft. Any other ideas?

[Anonymous No.1988573]

>>1988572
smaller nozzle
self-leveling setup
print the same design in TPU and vary temperature around the stem so it compresses a bit

[Anonymous No.1988574]

>>1988572
redesign them so they're not fucktarded? I wouldn't use this + design for the switches and I already don't understand the solid bottom.

also tree support saved my marriage

[Anonymous No.1988575]

>>1988574
for the + grip I'd use a split design like an xacto cap. there are a bunch of things that use this split column where the smaller internal grips via leverage (old car stereo buttons come to mind)

[Anonymous No.1988577]

>>1988541
No joke... just learn to code in Python and you can use Blender's scripting feature. I used OpenSCAD for a while, but it took fucking forever to export designs.

[Anonymous No.1988580]

>>1988342
>>1988393
post picture of your hotend

[Anonymous No.1988584]

>>1988123
Yeah we work on personal PC's and it crashes pretty frequently, it's a bit of a meme how often it crashes in our internal discussion channel lol. Also googled a bit and requent crashes seem a pretty common thing.

[Anonymous No.1988587]

>>1988574
>>1988575
that pic still has the brims on because it accentuates the difference. Brim removed on the right here.

>>1988573
I tried to find a per-area option for temperature in Cura but it wasn't in the area ovelap options.

[Anonymous No.1988621]

>>1988587
tree supports or a raft then. you could design in a break away base, but in my trials to get a smooth surface on the bottom making a 0.16mm gap for 0.14mm layers didn't make the bottom any smoother- there is probably a better way to manually make supports for the bottom.

[Anonymous No.1988622]

>>1988587
also can't you chamfer the bottom edges to prevent elephant's foot? won't that help with precision on the + socket too?

[Anonymous No.1988627]

>>1988379
Because I have a 3D printer and nothing on the market ticks all my check boxes.

[Anonymous No.1988629]

>>1988621
trying the raft now

>>1988622
maybe, but the stem is already barely 2 layers wide. A chamfer would leave like one strip of plastic on the bottom layer.

[Anonymous No.1988651]

>>1988629
https://youtu.be/0eltmmHjUCA
use a mold for the bottom of the cap, epoxy the stem part against the visible part of the cap

[Anonymous No.1988657]

I'm looking to get a printer in the under $300 range - cheaper is better desu. So far I've landed primarily between the Ender 3 pro which I can buy at around $180 and the Sovol SV01 that costs $250. The largest differences from what I can tell are that the Ender has more community support, and the SV01 has direct drive, 2 z-axis, and a glass plate. What would you all recommend? I'm just starting with 3d printing but I'm down to work through the garbage shit to get a nice experience and print in the end.

[Anonymous No.1988659]

>>1988657
ender 3 pro is good, I bought one bundled with a glass plate
I've seen people recommend the ender 3 v2
direct drive is attractive, as is dual z axis, but haven't head of sovol at all

[Anonymous No.1988664]

Where can I find the forbidden lego .stl's?

Or just any files that have been removed/blacklisted from search results? Thingiverse blacklisted 'Twilight Imperium' even though most of the files were about storage solutions for the game and not trying to rip/replace minis from the game.

[Anonymous No.1988666]

>>1988659
Thanks for the input, from what I've been able to tell the Sovol is an aftermarket ender upgrade, so I'm not sure it would be worth it. Do you think the glass plate is a necessary inclusion? Also the $60 difference, do you think the upgrades are both necessary and worth the price difference?

[Anonymous No.1988670]

>>1988666
I haven't used the ender without a glass plate, from what I understand they are more likely to be consistently level. E3Pro is primarily differentiated by a double-thickness Y axis bar that is less prone to vibration and wobble
can't speak to direct drive being worth anything, as I don't have it. I did buy a board upgrade and it's quieter now, and I'm still waiting on less-wobbly springs to arrive.

[Anonymous No.1988682]

>>1988651
this got me looking closer at other MX caps on thingiverse and some actually do use the round, fully encircled stem which would solve the issue of the split stems breaking. Unfortunately none of them use the ergo profile I'm trying to make.

I don't think I want to cast and glue a whole keyboard worth of caps. I'd sooner try to adapt this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2288281

[Anonymous No.1988700]

>>1988682
>none of them use the ergo profile I'm trying to make
Time to learn how to 3D model, then

[Anonymous No.1988746]

>>1987359
We never did get an update on anons cat

[Anonymous No.1988750]

I'm completely new to 3d stuff, but would this work?
-Making a clay figure
-3d scanning the figure by taking lots of pictures, using some software (autodesk memento?)
-3d printing it with PLA
-Painting with acrylics
I'm not looking to get something super detailed but closer to children's toys.
Would making the original clay figure big and then printing the model in a smaller size make the quality better?

[Anonymous No.1988752]

>>1988750
If you're bad at 3D-modeling this might be a great workflow, especially for people with a lot of skill in clay modeling. I'd give it a try, but make sure you have a guy who knows how to do the 3D-scanning part because that's likely to be your bottleneck. Good idea!

[Anonymous No.1988753]

>>1988746
Thank you for your concern anon
she's still in the vet clinic under intensive care, got a MRT amongst other things where they found brain degradation, probably because of the epileptic seizures she suffered from. long story short: she'll come home today or tomorrow and gets more meds. she won't have the longest life (only 8 months old atm) but she'll live. I'll design and print her an oxygen mask for the next emergency.

[Anonymous No.1988754]

>>1988750
Would probably work, yeah.
>Would making the original clay figure big and then printing the model in a smaller size make the quality better?
Technically yes, since larger features are easier to capture with shittier (e.g. phone) cameras, but if you've got a grade-A camera and lighting setup, it shouldn't matter much

[Anonymous No.1988757]

>>1988752
>>1988754
Thank you.
It's not that I don't want to do 3d modelling, but rather that I want to replicate my handicrafts without risking destroying them.
I'll be using a pro camera

[Anonymous No.1988758]

>>1988657
Follow this thread for a few weeks then buy the printer that has the least troubleshooting posts in proportion to sales volume

[Anonymous No.1988784]

If you see this picture while scrolling down the /3DPG/, you have been visited by the godfather of 3D printing, Josef Prusa. Good designs and print quality will come to you but only if you post a THANK YOU MASTER PRUSA! on this thread.

[Anonymous No.1988787]

>>1988784
Fuck you s o i cunt

[Anonymous No.1988853]

>>1988700
yeah yeah, I know

>>1988629
>>1988621
raft worked perfectly.

[Anonymous No.1988876]

>5 minutes in blender
First modeled print. It came out alright for eyeballed measurements. Stuff fits, and it hasn't broken yet.

[Anonymous No.1988877]

>>1988787
He really is the perfect picture of s.o.y.
>stupid grandma rim glasses
>stupid beard
>stupid haircut
Any of those separately would have been fine. But together... At least he isn't fat.

[Anonymous No.1988879]

>>1988876
Didn't even fillet the rod bases, not gonna make it

[Anonymous No.1988885]

Currently beating my head against the wall in Meshmixer.
I have an .stl file for a couple puzzle pieces, and I want to turn a bunch of them into one big solid piece. I tried making a cube primitive with the exact same dimensions, grouping them, and exporting that, but despite appearing to be one solid square in Cura, it still prints the thing as 16 individual pieces.
The only option I could find with Google is the Make Solid function, which would probably work, but it fucks with the model's geometry and makes the edges bulky and imprecise, which might make the piece unable to fit into other pieces.

Does anyone else better-versed in Meshmixer know how to accomplish what I'm going for? It seems like it should be so simple.

[Anonymous No.1988890]

>>1988885
Honestly, you're better off making it in SW or something.

[Anonymous No.1988893]

>>1988890
I've never used any modeling software, and I doubt I have time to sufficiently learn how for this project; It's to be a birthday gift and I only have a couple days.
If it comes to it, I could just print the pieces all individually and glue them together, but that'd be wasting a lot of unnecessary time and filament printing walls for each piece.

[Anonymous No.1988908]

Hej bros, thanks for the help last time. I'm using a stock Ender 3 V2, with the capricorn ptfe Tube. Trying to print with Amazonbasics translucent PETG, one of the fan shrouds suggested last time - but the prints don't stick. I think they warp and come off the bed and clog the nozzle. Got two failed attempts so far.
What could I be doing wrong? I'm using 245 deg on nozzle, 70 on bed.
Printing on the black side of the glass bed, I usually wipe with IPA before printing PLA so I did that for first attempt (0.2mm resolution). For the second attempt, took it off, put some hairspray on it, relevelled the bed and it failed again (0.28 resolution). Any suggestions?

[Anonymous No.1988914]

>>1988908
Try turning off the fan for the first few layers, PETG can be finicky in that regard.

[Anonymous No.1988920]

thanks for all the replies hope you all are having/had a nice day

>>1988465
>are you sure the file isn't corrupt?
pretty sure, what i meant with "same appearance on the surface" was that the infill layerlines were really thin and didnt adhere to the subjacent layer wheras the layer lines of the walls printed out okay (see lower three images in pic related)
>>1988580
pic related just a modified CR10V2 hotend assembly
>>1988499
included pics of the heatbreak assembly
the tube goes about 0.4" into the heatbreak
the inlet area inside of the heatbreak is clean, no gunk nothing, the tube sits flush inside of the receptor region inside the heatbreak and feeds the filament into the heatbreak (one of the upper pictures shows how long the filament piece went into the heatbreak after i removed the 'hot' coolingblock/hotend assembly from the tube/filament sticking inside the tube.
(only heated it up after the clog of yesterday to pull out the filament leaving whatever was inside the heatbreak/nozzle in there..., then did the "extrusion testsand temp measurements" as well as later pictures with filament inside the cold heatbreak/nozzle)

heated it up gradually and measured the temperatures with my IR thermometer, its rated up to 500° thats where i encountered a little discrepancy, from 190°C onwards i measured about -10° to -20° less than what i had set the heating element to, nevertheless i was able to easily manually extrude at my regular printing temperature of 240C as well as having the extruder process is without any problems. there is no bending at the nozzle tip either.
the cooling block never went over 36°C whereas i was able to measure 225° on the surface of the heater block so i assume the thermal break works as intended.
however i am still unable to figure out what causes the "underextrusion due to clogged nozzle"

[Anonymous No.1988921]

>>1988914
How do I do it in Cura/octoprint?

[Anonymous No.1988922]

>>1988921
Set initial fan speed to 0, regular fan speed at 100 (or maybe 50, if you want to be careful), and regular fan speed at layer 5 (not 2 like I have for PLA).

[Anonymous No.1988923]

>>1988921
>>1988914
Nvm figured it out, thanks.

[Anonymous No.1988925]

>>1988922
Ah, cheers mate. I'm a bit slow.

[Anonymous No.1988930]

>>1988876
maybe you should have spent 10 whole minutes senpai.
those screws are just right into drywall aren't they?
also what is this printed and what orientation?

[Anonymous No.1988932]

>>1988920
why you dont have thermal paste on the heartbreak
also that shroud looks godawful in terms of airflow

[Anonymous No.1988943]

>>1988753
I hope she gets better and is able to be a normal cat. I couldn't imagine that happening to one of my pets and being completely okay.

[Anonymous No.1988944]

>>1988885
yes.

in the most basic sense:
1. the pieces need to be positioned exactly, which is a fucking joke because there are no precise movements or tools in meshmixer. if they aren't precise they'll look like they're going to seem together but then when you crank up the detail there is suddenly a gap
2. beware there is a difference between ctrl+Z "undo" and alt-shift-left-arrow "go back a tool"
3. the steps are:
A. position pieces
B. select all
C. combine
D. make solid
D1. turn up the detail (see pic)
D2. "UPDATE"
D3. wait....

if you have gaps you don't want you can now
E. alt-shift-left arrow out of make solid
F. ctrl-z back out of combine
return to A

you can also meshmix (ugh) a cube and make it a rectangle filling most of the space and just go ahead and combine that in, if you're not particular about the internal gaps/position.

HTH

[Anonymous No.1988946]

>>1988885
windows 3d builder is a million times easier for stuff like that just use the merge tool.

[Anonymous No.1988949]

>>1988946
but does it have a bunny?

[Anonymous No.1988951]

>>1988949
no but it has tetrahedrons that can be moved around to look like a bunny.

[Anonymous No.1988952]

>>1988920
How about you just exchange some money in exchange for a carefree printing experience.
https://e3d-online.com/collections/hotends/products/v6-all-metal-hotend

[Anonymous No.1988957]

>>1988952
because my time is worthless

[Anonymous No.1988991]

How long until belt based printers will be affordable?
I want to print a bike

[Anonymous No.1989008]

>>1988876
Shit's going to BREAK

[Anonymous No.1989012]

>>1988991
June of 2022 anon.

[Anonymous No.1989034]

>>1988879
he clearly did tho.

[Anonymous No.1989045]

>>1988930
It's wood.

>>1989008
Then I reprint it kek

[Anonymous No.1989049]

>>1988932
The pictured shroud is 'opened', in the bottom left corner of the first image you can see the second part, it is a creality CR10V2, upper pic related is the assembly closed.
One anon asked me how my hotend looks like, so i took pictures while doing my "analysis" of the error :-)
>>1988952
Why sould i buy that ? Its exactly what i have now (pic related contains a cutaway drawing from the V6 hotend assembly).
Except their cooling block core is a conus and mine is a cylinder...

[Anonymous No.1989050]

>>1988908
When printing PETG I always do the first layer really fucking slow, like 10mm/s

[Anonymous No.1989051]

>>1988930
>printed and what orientation
ABS. It's printed flat like on the blender screenshot, of course.

[Anonymous No.1989057]

>>1989034
he clearly didn't on the end rods

>>1989045
dafuq do you mean "wood"? nevermind, I don't care

[Anonymous No.1989058]

>>1989051
dummy

[Anonymous No.1989060]

>>1989057
>dafuq do you mean "wood"?
It's not dry-wall, it's wood.

[Anonymous No.1989069]

>>1989049
dude, that shroud is horrific!
Im seriously baffeled how they can sell this shit with a straight face on.
Those holes in the front are the exhaust?
Heatcreap is a big issue on allmetall hotends. You can combat this with good fans a good shroud and a quality polished heatbreak.
Creality machines dont have that. Their shrouds are always shit like the Ender one that cools the heatblock and the weak ass fans

If i had to fix this mess I'd slap a 40x20 or 25mm fan infront for more pressure, but they are noisy. You should seriously look into printing a better assembly.

You do not have the V6 hotend. the V6 has a m7 thread on the heatbreak while you have a flange, i believe it is called mk10. Is the fit of the break in the heatsink loose? Because it has to be a good fit

also you seem to have ignored my question about the thermal paste. this is rather important

My guess on why it always clogs on the same layer is due to the part itself. the layer it fails you transition from solid surface to infill, this lowers your throughput. Lower throughput worsens your problem as fresh filament cools down the heatbreak, while low throughput and retracts heat it up

[Anonymous No.1989092]

Upgraded the extruder on my Chiron for a BMG dual drive and not an absolutely shit hotend, though still a v5. Got Capricorn tubes too.

What would be another good idea to upgrade to get generally better and more reliable machine for above average size prints and occasionally something smaller.

Can do 0.05 layers reliably now too, which is a big boon for my use case.

[Anonymous No.1989093]

>>1989092
Another Chiron, so you can slow your print speeds down but still get the same output.

[Anonymous No.1989107]

>>1988914
>>1989050

Petg cat anon again, >>1988908

I bumped up the bed temperature to 75, fan was off for first 6 layers, I gave it a nice coat of hairspray and relevelled before starting, and the first layer (or two) were at 85% speed (of the default feedrate).
The middle bit came off again. I'm trying to print Satsana (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4369859)) and the cooling fan duct sides stick onto the bed but the middle portion just comes off after a while, with every attempt so far. Bed adhesion isn't anywhere good as I get with PLA (understandably, it's different material but still) :(

What am I doing wrong here?

[Anonymous No.1989120]

>>1987359
imagine if an actuator like this was used for 3d printing
https://youtu.be/OiPU9BGQL2M

[Anonymous No.1989123]

>>1989107
just a guess, clean that hairspray off with the bed cold and up your first layer flow to 130 or 150% and try again

[Anonymous No.1989145]

>>1989069
Exactly that is the issue, it doesn't.
At first i thought it was always at the same spot but after manually levelling the bed it was able to print longer without an issue. (the right one is the last one)

The 'heatbreak/heaterblock/nozzle' assembly is pushed against the cooling block with screws that go through the heater block. Everything is tight and assembled without gaps, nozzle pushes onto heatbreak, heatbreak pushes onto cooling block.
Aside from more force i cant think of any benefit of a thread compared to a flange, the assembly doesnt come loose since the two screws that go inside the cooling block keep the thermal break top pressed against it and aside from that there is 0.4" of tube sitting flush inside of the heatbreak guiding the filament through the break towards the nozzle.

By coincidence i had a 40x20 laying around in front of me so i slapped it on however as of now i am not convinced it will do much since overheating of the cooling block wasn't the issue, admittedly, measured with half of the shroud off :D
at least it looks cooler now.

I wiped the grease off as i pulled it out, because i didn't want it dangling around with the grease on, smearing it everywhere... (especially my fingers). This is the one i use:
https://www.aabcooling.com/product-eng-1491-AABCOOLING-Thermal-Grease-5-1g.html

Also i changed the oem tube to authentic capricorn and replaced the extruder motor with a new one, i suspect that the extruder is somehow loosing power eratically mid-print.

Going to heat up now and see if it will fail again, really hope it was the extruder motor all i can think of instead would be to try out another nozzle but that feels not right since it does print well (for some time)...

[Anonymous No.1989146]

>>1989123
I'll try that first thing in the morning, it's a bit late here to try this print again. Should I also put the nozzle closer to the bed than I do for PLA?
That way the filament kinda digs into the black coating/sticker thing on the glass bed.

[Anonymous No.1989147]

>>1989107
>>1989146
Forgot to attach picture.

[Anonymous No.1989153]

>>1989145
>replaced the extruder motor
against the exact same spare or a different one?
did you set the motorcurrent?
if youre putting in to much the driver might overheat, that results in loosing steps
>>1989146
no, dont touch the leveling.

[Anonymous No.1989154]

Debating buying another ender 5 and printing some support struts, or buying an ender 5 plus because dual Z and auto-level. Need some hot opinions on dual Z and BL-touch, worth it?

[Anonymous No.1989155]

>>1989153
Okay. I also did some digging and might try bumping up bed temp to 85 deg. I will clean the bed with IPA and try the flow rate you suggested.

[Anonymous No.1989171]

Why the hate for rafts? Is it just the material waste or is it like a challenge to make designs work without it?

[Anonymous No.1989190]

My chinesium rubber ghost 4s just wont print first layer that is not a simple square. Turned out the hotbed was actually outputting 50c when told 70c. Set it to 90c, got 65c in real life, now it lands just fine. Fucking why would you steal degrees china?

[Anonymous No.1989194]

>>1989171
Both. Also time and power waste.

[Anonymous No.1989199]

>>1989194
is it any more wasetful than a print failing for adhesion or bad dimensional tolerance on the lower layers?

[Anonymous No.1989200]

I'm getting poor brim adhesion in my brims. Some sections pull up. Fortunately, with a 0.4 brim distance, it doesn't pull up the first walls. Additionally, it's a bit of a bitch to remove; I have to pare the brim from the piece with a knoife, while other anons have managed to pull them off with a fingernail.

What am I missing? Am I overextruding? Should I use a 95% initial layer flow like others suggested? I have correctly calibrated my esteps.

Also, I can't do much from here, but sending good hopes for anon's cat.

[Anonymous No.1989201]

>>1989199
It is if you have tuned your printer and printing parameters so as not to need rafts on regular prints

[Anonymous No.1989207]

Printed a couple of these grinders. Only takes 3 hours and $1.50 worth of filament. I think I'm going to sell them to my friends for $5. They don't have a chamber but the grinder works incredibly well and is super smooth. I may design a collapsible case in my free time, but for now I'm just churning them out while I'm at work.

Printed on the Flashforge Creator Pro using light green PLA at 200 degrees Celsius and a 60 degree Celsius baseplate.

[Anonymous No.1989211]

>>1989207
The toothless grinder is superior to teeth. Teeth break too easily and aren't as efficient when 3D printed. You can see a visible z seam on the case. That is because the case was printed with 0% infill and I chose not to randomize it because I don't personally mind it. The grinder itself is 4 parts. Two grinders and a top and bottom case.

Here's the link if anyone's interested.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1682040

[Anonymous No.1989215]

>>1989207
>>1989211
>DUDE WEED
kys

[Anonymous No.1989220]

>>1989207
>>1989211
Kinda neat, but I can see keef getting stuck between parts and the center. How has it worked out for you?

[Anonymous No.1989223]

>>1989211
I hope you like smoking microplastics

[Anonymous No.1989231]

>>1989215
>>1989223
Seethe.
>>1989220
I can usually knock 90% of it out and the last 10% I can just poke with a tooth pick to break up if it's really sticky and it knocks out. Keef usually collects on the rim but only once. After than it just knocks out like the rest.

[Anonymous No.1989248]

>>1989220
Here's a picture of a new one next to a used one.

[Anonymous No.1989266]

Is this cool or what

[Anonymous No.1989276]

>>1989266
try touching it and if you don't get burned it's probably cool
what is it, fan cover?

[Anonymous No.1989280]

>>1989276
Yeah because my printer has no purpose I might as well print parts for it, for the hell of it.

[Anonymous No.1989283]

>>1989280
it do be like that sometimes
if you haven't already, print some temp tests, then when you dial that in print some general tests for overhang, etc so you'll at least have settings dialed in once you think of something you need

[Anonymous No.1989310]

>>1989120
very erect
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-7b1b2R_Kg

[Anonymous No.1989380]

>>1989200
*poor bed adhesion
bump?

[Anonymous No.1989401]

>>1989057
>rod bases
>rod ends
pick one you absolute mong.

[Anonymous No.1989422]

Any way to tell cura to leave the bed and nozzle heated at the end of a print? I'm trying to print multiple small parts with less than 10 minutes print time as a rapid prototyping thing.

My ender 3 crashes and I have to power cycle the entire thing in between prints, I mainly noticed it only happens when I tell it to preheat while the bed / nozzle is still hot.

[Anonymous No.1989428]

>>1989422
Check the end g-code configuration for your machine

[Anonymous No.1989431]

>>1989422
Make one long gcode file with an M00 or M01 between prints.

[Anonymous No.1989455]

>>1989431
>>1989428
Yeah the thought crossed my mind I could just edit the end of the g-code file right after I clicked post. Thanks anons.

[Anonymous No.1989457]

>>1989455
You'll want to auto-home after the M00/M01

[Anonymous No.1989468]

I'll try printing this as a headphone holder. What do you guys think?

And there's a hole missing for some reason, I have no idea wtf.

[Anonymous No.1989469]

>>1989468
Check the array feature. Most software has an option to "skip" some instances.

[Anonymous No.1989494]

Scanned this with my phone & hand turning the subject yesterday. Only 35 shots.
First scan to come out recognizable.

[Anonymous No.1989516]

Hey bros, been looking into this for a while now and considering buying a resin printer. However there seems to be very little in the way of stl files for intellectual property protected stuff. Is there a torrent site or something that hosts all this shit?

[Anonymous No.1989533]

Trips decides the first thing I print.
Brand new CR10 MAX.
Been using a poverty printer i got for free.

[Anonymous No.1989537]

>>1989516
.t

[Anonymous No.1989552]

Mosquito Hotend, are they any good, and whats the search terms to get a bootleg?

[Anonymous No.1989554]

>>1989533
A dildo.

[Anonymous No.1989555]

>>1989554
A dildo.

[Anonymous No.1989558]

Is there any reason why I *shouldn't* take off the fan shroud off the hot end? I'm not expecting a massive dB reduction but I don't see what its purpose is other than keeping me from sticking my dick in the spinning fans or against the heater block

[Anonymous No.1989560]

>>1989558
It helps keep some of the plastic from getting sucked up in there. To be fair, you're gonna get strings caught in your fan eventually anyways, but hey why not slow it down.

[Anonymous No.1989565]

are solid bed mounts of silicone worth doing? I'm tired of this collapsing spring shit.

[Anonymous No.1989584]

>>1989049
Yes the V6 is a very similar hotend to yours but with one difference, it actually functions, and it functions well.

[Anonymous No.1989589]

>>1989190
Tather than putting in a proper heat element why not just gibe erraneous temperature numbers, it's cheaper lmao.

[Anonymous No.1989631]

Are resin printers good for anything other than figurines? I mean that seems to be what youtubers are making with them.

[Anonymous No.1989637]

>>1989631
Anything that needs decent precision.
I'm thinking of making a CIEM with one. Others have had success too, pic related.

[Anonymous No.1989647]

>>1987651
This. Look at their recent product launches. All a desaster.
Their belt printer will be one too.

Plus the belt isn't their idea.
And there are others available too.

I just recently started printing but I've put my money down on the iFactory.

[Anonymous No.1989661]

>>1989647
no one wants to buy your shit no name printer, fuck off

[Anonymous No.1989664]

Any recommendations on a camera for octoprint?
There are many lists of known compatible cameras available, but all of them are affiliate links.
So what cameras are proven in use? I want to keep an eye on the running print, detect fails (spaghetti detective?) and maybe record a time lapse once in a while.

[Anonymous No.1989669]

>>1989661
I have nothing to do with that company. I backed the CR30 initially but removed my pledge after I saw what a shitty company Creality is, based on their lame excuses regarding their previous failed campaigns.
Its ridiculous how they react to customer feedback and criticism.

There is no guarantee that the iFactory will be a good product but from Will Steele's comparison, they seem to be on a good way.

I could have also named BlackBelt for example, but that's a different league.

Think what you want. I'll wait for an updated version in March and try it.
Worst case I'll sell it or scrap it for parts.

[Anonymous No.1989672]

>>1987694
I love you.

[Anonymous No.1989707]

does brand of pla really matter as long as its not wish tier shit

particular brands to buy or to avoid?

[Anonymous No.1989708]

>>1988272
PETG is super easy to print. Don't know what you're on about. ABS is a fucking pain and warps to ass and back.

[Anonymous No.1989709]

>>1988908
>>1989107
>>1989146
>>1989155
I have the E3 with glass bed as an upgrade, and the original fiberglass with abrasive stuff on top bed is perfect for PETG, 70℃ bed, 235℃ hotend, no cooling fan and slightly lower speeds than PLA and it just works.
The only time I've managed to print PETG on the glass bed is using painters tape.

[Anonymous No.1989714]

Hi, i have a problem and i thought this might be the right place to ask for advice.
So i got me a SKR1.4 board and swapped everything as in the manual described but the stepper motor of the extruder is making a hissing noise when turning and in idle until i send M84.

The motor is fine, as well as the cable and everything.
Switched the E0 cable and motor with X and when X is plugged into the E0 plug on the board it produces the same hissing noise, E0 plugged into X on the board produces no noise and works as intended so doex X motor when plugged onto X on the board.
The board came with TMC2209 drivers and all the motors are in UART mode.
I also swapped the drivers but the problem is behind the E0 port on/in the board.
Stealthchop is enabled for X, Y, Z and E.
The motors are Nema 42-40 which are rated for 1.5A, CURRENT is set to 800x1.414=1.131A and microstepping is set to 16 by default for all of them.
I have checked configuration.h and configuration_adv.h as well as almost all of the other files, but i am unable to find any clues to what could cause this.

When using search engines i only get problems that are different (i.e. wrong cable connection etc.).

[Anonymous No.1989725]

>>1989714
>Ok problem solved...
So i just learned about M122 and it says stealthchop is OFF for E despite enabling it in the firmware with #define STEALTHCHOP_E ...
just send a M569 S1 X Y Z E command to enable it manually and et voilà! it works, hissing noise is gone, E0 moves silent and smooth as intended. just going to leave this here in case someone else has the same issue. Have a nice day!

[Anonymous No.1989728]

>>1989725
after flashing make sure to initialize eeprom in the menue

[Anonymous No.1989775]

>>1987359
Why does the 3dpg sticky only list FDM printers? Ive been looking at resin printers and want to know why im wrong

[Anonymous No.1989777]

>>1989775
>want to know why im wrong
>resin
that's why

[Anonymous No.1989782]

>>1987359
>Pastebin MIA, Need Backup Copy
Here you go:
https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>>1989775
>SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Read you idiot.

[Anonymous No.1989796]

>>1989725
have you checked if hybrid threshold is disabled? the standard value for e0 is very low so it'll switch to squarestep/ noisymode right away

[Anonymous No.1989803]

I have a question for those with experience in working with Fusion 360.

I've got an object that has a rather irregular profile. I want to chamfer it. It doesn't let me, I think because the edges I'm trying to chamfer are curved. Apart from just straightening out those edges, which would ruin the model, is there anything I can do here?

[Anonymous No.1989809]

>>1989803
post a picture of the model that shows the troublesome edges

[Anonymous No.1989814]

>>1989809
Honestly all the edges on this model are a problem, I can pick all at once or one at random and it'll just give me an error either way.

[Anonymous No.1989819]

>>1989814
How'd you manage to make such a broken model lmao
start over from the beginning

[Anonymous No.1989820]

>>1989777
But I read a single article saying that SLA is the future! Also I found "waxlike" resins that might be good for jewelry casting, but I know fuck all about 3d printers

[Anonymous No.1989822]

>>1989819
Very helpful.

It's just an extrusion of a bunch of splines. Nothing fancy. Why would it be broken?

[Anonymous No.1989824]

>>1989200
Bump?

[Anonymous No.1989825]

Do you guys plan for machine downtime? I've been keeping mine running as close to 24/7 as I can but is that any worse for it than the same total runtime over a longer period?

[Anonymous No.1989827]

>>1989200
>>1989380
>>1989824
just tweak something then print a test object. Try lower extrusion, lower temp, lower bed level, lower brim layer height.

[Anonymous No.1989828]

>>1989200
What are you printing on? Glass, buildtak, etc?

[Anonymous No.1989835]

>>1989825
>Do you guys plan for machine downtime?
By having backups, sure. Predective maintenance on 3D-printers is kinda a wash, I can't predict what part is going to break next so having another printer ready to go is the solution.

[Anonymous No.1989836]

>>1989820
If you ask me, the "future" isn't here yet for home printing. FDM is running into the practical limits of precision/detail, SLA isn't user-friendly enough for the "casual" market, other options like SLS are too expensive...

[Anonymous No.1989838]

>>1989822
because Fusion is shit desu

another Fusion question, hard to explain for ESL trash.
Is there an option that enables a measurement readout when i snap the courser to a feature and then drag it for example sideways?
ive seen this in another CAD

[Anonymous No.1989842]

>>1989838
Solidworks has that by default.
Also fucking google it, F360 is the first choice for plebbtors so you can finds answers for it easily.

[Anonymous No.1989844]

>>1989842
>google it
i did but didnt find shit

[Anonymous No.1989858]

>>1989707
Buy locally if you can.

[Anonymous No.1989861]

>>1989775
FDM is the most noob-friendly. You don't drive an F1 as your first car.

[Anonymous No.1989863]

>>1989707
I've had bad experiences with the cheapass Amazon Basic stuff, but apart from that there don't seem to be huge differences from one brand to the next.

[Anonymous No.1989865]

>>1989814
I don't use F360, but the limiting factor is most likely caused by one curve being so tight that the chamfer would intersect with itself.
You'll see what I mean if you do an offset of the same width as the chamfer you're trying to make on top of the object.

[Anonymous No.1989879]

>>1989796
it's disabled but i had set it to 100 or 150 before from 30 because it seemed too low
>>1989728
i dont have the initialize eeprom feature in the lcd menue, there is only load or save settings and restore defaults, but i have enabled eeprom in the firmware settings

it seems the machine ignores certain settings configured inside the firmware.
if i change behavior after homing for example it utilizes the firmware changes, or bootscreen disable or something like that , but when i remove #define STEALTHCHOP XY for example it ignores the missing command and still leaves it enabled until i change it manually with the M569 and save it with M500 to the eeprom

for some reason the eeprom ignores new firmware flashes it seems

[Anonymous No.1989882]

>>1989879
>restore defaults
thats the setting
When you flash firmware it does not overwrite the eeprom, thats a separate block of memory.
But the eeprom is where marlin reads the parameters on startup, so after flashing you have to restore defaults Or change them in the menu to the same value and save settings

that is by design
>https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/eeprom.html

[Anonymous No.1989889]

>>1989882
ahh okay thanks that makes sense now

[Anonymous No.1989894]

Is Thingiverse's customizer just completely broken?
I'm trying to use a custom text generator that apparently only works via the customizer, but evidently any job I submit instantly hits 99% and then hangs there for hours.

[Anonymous No.1989895]

made the jump to MSLA with a Mars Pro
DAMN this thing smells good
Like you go near it, breathe in, and it's just - air, regular air
I could breathe its local air all damn day

[Anonymous No.1989897]

>>1987724
Solidworks saves automatically every half hour

[Anonymous No.1989906]

Is there any difference in paintability between translucent and opaque resins? I don't know why there would be, I just feel that there might be

[Anonymous No.1989915]

>>1989906
Assuming you're going to prime it before painting anyway (you should), there's no difference.

[Anonymous No.1989931]

>>1989819
>>1989814
Had the same shit in F360 with literally a single box segment. After the third readjustment no shelling or chamfering would work on it and the entire model broke, had to start from scratch.

None of this stupid bug exists in Solid Edge or any other real actual non-locked down CAD software

[Anonymous No.1989951]

>>1989814
you have bad curve. It is too tight on some places. I assume here. You can also split the part in multiple pieces to find a bad geometry. Or uncheck Tangent chain and slowly go one by one on the edges.
Solidworks has Show curvature combs and Min. curve radius, to help you find this kind of problems. I didn't find anything like that in fusion, You will have to do it by eye. If you post sketch, maybe I can help you.
Maybe you can try Control point spline. it is harder to fuck up, but also harder to control it.
>>1989931
>real actual non-locked down CAD software
What does that even mean?
If you still have a model, I 'd like to see it.

[Anonymous No.1989953]

>>1989951
>you have bad curve. It is too tight on some places. I assume here.
That part isn't even selected.

>uncheck Tangent chain and slowly go one by one on the edges.
Look at the picture. It IS unchecked. There's only one edge selected in that picture.

[Anonymous No.1989954]

What would cause these issues?

Ender 3 pro
Esun pla+ 210/60
Calibrated e steps and flow rate, bed leveled,
Using cura no supports 10/
% infill 50mm/s

[Anonymous No.1989957]

>>1989954
Printed at .28 as well.

[Anonymous No.1989962]

>>1989951
I wish Solidworks offered a free student license like Fusion360 does. Yeah $150 a year isn't that much, but still more than I want to pay for something the competition gives me for free. Even if Fusion360 isn't as good, it still does 99% of what I want it to do except with an easier-to-use UI.

[Anonymous No.1989974]

>>1989953
>Look at the picture. It IS unchecked. There's only one edge selected in that picture.
sorry, I am tired and half blind apparently.
Maybe try to select what I have drawn in red. Chamfer can't just stop and start out of nowhere, even though you selected just one edge. It sort of swoops in and it also makes a "run off" chamfer on not-selected geometry. (drawn in green). Imagine you would try to cut a chamfer with a knife in real life; without making a sharp step at the beginning and ending. So, if bad geometry happens on that "run off" area, than it can't do it.
Also, concave area is not good for those run-offs for the chamfer. That's why I drawn a line so that it reaches nearest convex area.
This in general should work, but I can't promise for your example.

[Anonymous No.1989975]

>>1989555
good job

[Anonymous No.1989981]

>>1989962
We did have free student versions in uni, provided by school. But if you mean for hobby, ahoy matey.
To me it is weird that you cannot rent a licence for like $1/hour for standard, or $3/hour for premium. Kind of like what library does for books. And accessible on all different timezones, it would be in use 24/7. And licences paid off.
I think that would be really useful for start-ups/smaller companies, that are not based only on 3d modeling and cant afford full year license. I think in that area it would really put a battle against f360.
It might still not be affordable for hobby or free, so no luck for you my friend.

[Anonymous No.1989988]

>>1989708
The complete opposite of my personal experience, though.

Although the ABS god seems to be punishing me for using other filament types now. Last couple of prints came slightly warped after I changed back to ABS, giving me no choice but to use a brim.

[Anonymous No.1989991]

Probably going to buy a Proton zero since they're only 100 bucks right now. What's the worst that could happen?

[Anonymous No.1989997]

>>1989991
house catches on fire. release noxious nerve gas that murders everyone within 100 feet of it?

[Anonymous No.1990001]

>>1989957
Maybe combing... Do you have retraction problems?

[Anonymous No.1990016]

>>1989953
>That part isn't even selected.
Does F360 not automatically chain features like chamfers and filets?
>>1989954
>>1989957
Check your belts.

[Anonymous No.1990021]

>>1990016
>Does F360 not automatically chain features like chamfers and filets?
By default yes, but not if you turn off tangent chain.

[Anonymous No.1990024]

>>1990021
You could try doing a sweep-cut, I guess. It's a bit janky, but probably less work than starting again from essentially scratch.

[Anonymous No.1990041]

>>1990001
I don’t think so

>>1990016
Belts are all good.

[Anonymous No.1990049]

>>1989533
i still use that monoprice mini. an even older version even. Once you do the bed wire mod and a change to an all metal extruder, it does a fine job.

[Anonymous No.1990060]

>>1989803
>>1989814
Try a Sweep with the chamfer you want, might work better if the profile isn't too fucky

[Anonymous No.1990071]

>>1990041
What diameter nozzle are you using?
.28 is pretty big, making the intersecting parts of two subsequent layers pretty small, which can lead to poor layer adhesion.

[Anonymous No.1990074]

>>1990071
Ahhh That could be. I’m using the stock .4 nozzle

[Anonymous No.1990076]

>>1987359
good news lads, after 5 days and 2 clinics my kitty came home today, she still needs some time to recover and I had to give her a bath but she is as playful and cuddly as ever.
>asked neurologist about oxygen treatment over tiny mask
>apparently this wouldn't work, a oxygen chamber is needed
guess my next project will be carbon fiber molds then

[Anonymous No.1990077]

>>1990076
Glad your cat seems to be okay. Here's the only cat-related picture I have on my HD, the other one's gone missing somehow.

[Anonymous No.1990082]

>>1990074
Try it at .2mm

[Anonymous No.1990083]

>>1990076
That's good to hear.
Losing a pet is soul-crushing.

[Anonymous No.1990126]

Hey bros, just got sent here from /tg/. I was hoping for some help with my first prints. I've been largely disappointed so far and I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong.

>Ender 3 Pro
>PETG Filament (Got it as a present with the printer. I just ordered PLA to replace it)
>245/80 Bed
>0.4 Layer Height
>40.0 mm/s print speed
>Retraction enabled

All of these have been bad, but in their own unique way.

The calibration cube has noticeable banding, the X isn't deep enough, the Y is drifted over toward the X-Face, the Z is incomplete and not solid on top.
The ghost ship benchy is REALLY lacking detail. The left side printed fine enough, but the right side looks glitched.
The Dredd Badge was good for a few hours, but when it finished, it looks like the layers aren't stacked correctly.
The Imperium logo just didn't print right at all. Some of the right-side wings are really thin, the heads didn't print right, and the piece wasn't filled in.

[Anonymous No.1990127]

>>1990126
Try dropping .4 layer height to .2 or .18.

Whats your fan speed at?

[Anonymous No.1990128]

>>1990127
Thanks! That's the first thing I'll do.

I was running it at default for the file. I think it was at 60% for the Imperium logo and 100% for the boat.

[Anonymous No.1990132]

>>1990126
Do the hotend fix first

[Anonymous No.1990138]

>>1990126
that benchy looks real bad man.

[Anonymous No.1990139]

>>1990126
ngl im surprised you got results at all instead of blobs

[Anonymous No.1990142]

>>1990138
It was ghostship benchy Thought it would be cool, but I didn't realize it was a torture test and I didn't realize I had no clue what I was doing.

[Anonymous No.1990147]

>>1990126
what size nozzle?
You typically don't want a layer height greater than 1/2 the diameter of your nozzle of the print quality starts to suffer.

[Anonymous No.1990149]

>>1990147
Yikes. Noted. I was using the default .4 nozzle. Like the anon above said, I'll be going down to .2 or .18

[Anonymous No.1990164]

>>1990126
>245/80 Bed
I've heard it's not good to go over 240 with stock on ender (although I've done it myself as well when using ABS). It degrades the tubing. I can't help you much with PETG, as I have been having problems with it myself. The only pieces I managed to print with it were those that didn't need much retraction.

I got better results for 5mm retraction, 35mm/s print speed, 40mm/s retraction speed, 0.063mm3 of coasting volume (under experimental in cura) and a very, very low temperature of 220°C, which probably means that my filament is shitty, so you should test yourself with some stuff that is faster to print.

This one helped me a lot: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:909901 it's fast to print. Try my retraction settings at first and go lowering the temperature at 5° steps until stringing stops improving, then pick the last temperature that you saw before you had no improvement, that will give it more layer adhesion and prevent delamination. Then work on your stringing by changing the retraction settings.

If you do manage, tell me what worked.

[Anonymous No.1990171]

>>1990126
>Dredd badge layer stacking
"layer shifting". Tighten your belts / make sure the grub screws on the pulleys are tight

[Anonymous No.1990178]

>>1987359
So I got an Ender 3 as a gift. It came with some PETG filament. What is this stuff good for? Is there a list of the various filaments with their properties somewhere? What is a decent guide for first timers to follow for setting this thing up?

[Anonymous No.1990191]

>>1990178
Compared to PLA, PETG is more temperature resistant and UV resistant so it's good for outdoor applications, and you can bend it more times without snapping or weakening it which makes it a bit better for clips and snap fits. It's also about as cheap as standard PLA and has a nice translucent look about it.

[Anonymous No.1990208]

>trying to install BL touch
>printer connects as a USB serial device instead of a com port

[Anonymous No.1990227]

>>1990191
>about as cheap
I can't find any PLA anywhere that's as cheap as the PETG I bought. $13 a roll.

Cheapest PLA I can find is the bottom of the barrel $18/roll stuff.

[Anonymous No.1990249]

>Merry Christmas bro I made you a golden bookmark on my 3D printer

[Anonymous No.1990290]

anyone else find sanding therapeutic?

[Anonymous No.1990292]

>>1990127
>>1990171
>>1990164
Thanks for the help everyone. Checking in again after some adjustments. Someone on /tg/ sent me some Cura templates for PETG and it's been a significant improvement.

Retraction test had just some (I think) small hairs between the pillars.
I also tried this cube again. First one went well, but started dragging after 1/4 inch. The second one (pictured) went well for a while, clearly a big improvement, but started dragging.

[Anonymous No.1990302]

>>1989211
why 4 pieces? that gap seems unnecessary

[Anonymous No.1990348]

>>1989637
those are some deep ass ear canal extensions.

[Anonymous No.1990361]

>>1989814
>>1989803
you're not retarded I was trying to make a mailbox pull and ran into this, F360 is awful if it's not straight. I wound up redesigning and then kludging: fillet or chamfer on a few edges that worked, ignore the rest. it's just bad for this shit, poorly implemented. I wasted hours on a simple piece trying to make it work and essentially gave up.

>>1989981
you shouldn't be a startup/business if you cannot afford the software. I do hate subscription based software though, you're forced into the current version and if your platform of choice gets bought out or cancelled, you're SOL.

>ahoy matey
does sw have a good easy crack on the bay? I'd at least like to play with it because I hate life every time I have to use Fusion.

[Anonymous No.1990364]

>>1990249
what filament? is that off the bed as is? my YOUSU Silk Pearlescent gold just prints a dull mustard yellow. it's fine, but it only looks good on the spool.

the TTYT3D shiny red I have looks better printed but is brittle as fuck and detail shit sucks, plus it's stringy as fuck.

also how is the keyfagging going post raft?

[Anonymous No.1990365]

>>1990290
I don't so I don't do it.

[Anonymous No.1990373]

>>1990076
Lots of love for your cat anon

[Anonymous No.1990381]

>>1990364
CC3D ZHUOPU Silk Gold, looks like Amazon is out of the exact one I ordered. It looks great though.

And yeah those are the rafts straight off the bed. I'm printing the keys in columns of 5 so I'll have 12 of those rafts when I'm done. The keys fit perfectly on my current MX keyboard but the switches I'll be using are not here yet. So now I'm just trying to keep the key locations straight in the mean time since they are not labeled but are unique. I also found out I have to reprint half the case because the new PCB revision moved the USB ports and the only indication of this was buried in the Thing comments.

[Anonymous No.1990385]

>>1990361
>does sw have a good easy crack on the bay?
Yeah, been using cracked SW versions since 2012

[Anonymous No.1990388]

>get printer put back together
>get everything working correctly
>new BL touch is working
>pla won't stick to the build plate

Fuck I'm so mad. I get this probe working, change out the filament to print some shit I actually need, and not it won't stick to the fucking bed.

[Anonymous No.1990391]

>>1990388
should have bought a Prusa

[Anonymous No.1990393]

>>1990391
I doubt the model of the printer would change anything.

[Anonymous No.1990395]

>>1990388
Clean bed with IPA, adjust height, lower speed, etc. etc.

[Anonymous No.1990414]

>>1990395
Done all those, calibrated the probe 3 different times, changed temps several times, enabled/disabled cooling. Everything I could think of.

Tomorrow I'm just going to slap painters tape all over the bed and see if that helps.

[Anonymous No.1990417]

>>1990393
Prusa's have a build plate on to which PLA does stick to.

[Anonymous No.1990435]

Alright I've been having some catastrophically bad texture/shifting issues with my Prusa i3 MK3S. Yes I've gone to Google, read everything I can possibly search for and find, yet nothing seems to fix the issue. I flashed new firmware, tightened all of the belts and screws to spec, tried the soft material under the base trick, dicked with speeds and temps, switched from PrusaSlicer to Cura, all to no avail. What is going on here?
Printer: Prusa i3 MK3S
Print Settings: PrusaSlicer default 0.2MM Quality (215°C temp)
Filament: Overture PLA (same shit happens with all filaments

[Anonymous No.1990438]

>>1990435
Here's a close-up

[Anonymous No.1990445]

>>1990435
>>1990438
This isn't the Prusa support forums.

[Anonymous No.1990448]

>>1990438
>>1990435
You think you might've dinged your leadscrews somehow? Repeated motion like that is usually caused by damage to them, particularly if the defect is exactly the same distance off each time it repeats.

[Anonymous No.1990450]

>>1990448
and by 'dinged' I mean 'bent", or otherwise pushed out of where they're supposed to be. Move the Z-axis up and down and see if it looks weird.

[Anonymous No.1990451]

>>1990448
I was guessing that but if you look near the tops of the prints, the layer swells arent the same distance from each other, it seems to get more common the bigger the holes are between perimeters

[Anonymous No.1990453]

>>1990451
Right, the side-to-side motion is amplified towards the top, but the distance between the peaks vertically is the same, looks like - or am I off?

[Anonymous No.1990454]

>>1990445
Oh do I have to be a sperg and buy a chinkshit printers to ask questions here?

>>1990453
The distance varies by up to 6 layers

[Anonymous No.1990457]

>>1990454
Please print something in wood so it looks neat

[Anonymous No.1990459]

>>1990454
>The distance varies by up to 6 layers
What the fug.

[Anonymous No.1990460]

>>1990457
Literally why the fuck why would I ever want to or need to print something in wood?

[Anonymous No.1990462]

>>1990459
My thoughts exactly kek, never seen anything like this on the forums or troubleshooting guides

[Anonymous No.1990472]

>>1990435
>>1990448
No leadscrews do not do stuff like that, you would see it by eye if they did, the issue probably lies in the extruder gears bore not being properly centered, I suggest you disassemble your hotend and look at the gears, take pictures, then contact Prusa support.

[Anonymous No.1990473]

>>1990454
Yeah that is totally the extruder gears, the faults repeat every few mm of extruded material, ie. every turn of the hob gear.

[Anonymous No.1990487]

Are resin prints stronger than FDM prints due to the lack of layer seams?

[Anonymous No.1990489]

>>1990487
no, its apples to oranges. resin is very fine detail, but fragile. fdm is more durable.

[Anonymous No.1990494]

>>1990489
How fragile are we talking? Like, "can't be used to hold up a shelf" or "the average person can crush it in their hand"?

[Anonymous No.1990511]

>>1990489
Tough resin is harder than fdm. Anyways its pain in the ass to work with resin.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=a6m_GnN5j4c

[Anonymous No.1990527]

>>1990435
Contact 24/7 prusa chat support. You paid for it. Use it. If they don't help you, come back here.

[Anonymous No.1990528]

>>1989153
I exchanged it with a slimmer/lighter one, its 42x30millimeters 'large' and draws 0.8 Amps max, it runs on 565mA without skipping,
It finished with:
>Print ended at: 05:46:27 and took 10:36:14
Printrun showed it as 8 hours something,

Loading file: /Tombow.gcode, 519628 lines
25608.83mm of filament used in this print
The print goes:
- from 10.10 mm to 198.01 mm in X and is 187.91 mm wide
- from 20.00 mm to 200.00 mm in Y and is 180.00 mm deep
- from 0.00 mm to 71.00 mm in Z and is 71.00 mm high
Estimated duration: 356 layers, 8:17:14

Layer height was 0.2 and the speed was set to 50mm/s for Infill and 25mm/s for Wall Speed.

Didn't change the file except from the temp and line width for testing, pic related is the result in the end i guess the failure came from a mix of uneven bed and faulty stepper motor. Thanks for your attention and help.

[Anonymous No.1990529]

>>1990511
>compares specialty tough resins to b-grade filament
hmm

[Anonymous No.1990543]

Does anyone have experience printing knives scales? How do you do it and what materials do you use?
Is it a good idea or am I better off making micarta/something else?

[Anonymous No.1990554]

>>1990543
>making micarta
if you can 'make' micarta why would you even consider printing ?

aside from that, measure your tang, whatever you got, take measurements and throw them at screen with your modeling program of choice opened and mix a fair amount of creativity, for the extra smidge you might want to consider adding the owners anatomy and or usecases to achieve a smooth and ergonomic sapidity.
Material-wise everything above PETG, for durability purposes when considering additive manufacturing, otherwise create negative silicone molds from printed PETG positives and cast with epoxy resin.

[Anonymous No.1990557]

>>1990554
Good advice, thank you.
Micarta takes longer, after initial model (maybe even made by others) printing is more time efficient, and micarta dust is toxic (requires mask and well ventilated working space) which is annoying.
Thanks for material recommendations, I saw people doing it in PLA but they can't take the knife out in summer and it wears out fairly quickly.

[Anonymous No.1990559]

>>1990414
Hair spray.

[Anonymous No.1990560]

>>1990494
If you make something thick to have better physical properties, you end up with the center of the model not fully curing.
It's also generally brittle.

[Anonymous No.1990571]

>>1990529
But the point is resins are not so fragile people think.

[Anonymous No.1990576]

>>1990142
>stock ender 3, covered with cardboard box
>mostly default cura 0.2mm abs settings
>extruder 235C, bed 110C, speed 60mm/s
>bridges enabled
Overall it works good, but i get a little bit of blobbing on short bridges and a ghosting on wall intersections. What settings should i try to tinker?

[Anonymous No.1990592]

>>1990576
Print a temperature tower test

[Anonymous No.1990606]

>>1990414
You've set the z-offset, right?

[Anonymous No.1990608]

>>1990606
Paper trick, see what the mm are, initialize eeprom, go into z offset and set the offset according to the mm, then store settings

I've done it enough to memorize it step by step.

[Anonymous No.1990626]

>>1990608
Set it a tad lower and try again then. If the first layer squishes to the point of being translucent and it still doesn't stick go tell the Nobel Prize Committee because you've just discovered the greatest non-stick material known to man.

[Anonymous No.1990635]

Looking to get into miniature printing and wanting a resin printer - what is the learning curve for a resin printer? I know FDM printers can be a whole hobby in itself, are resin printers plug and play?

[Anonymous No.1990636]

>>1990635
Resin printers are generally MORE of a PITA.

[Anonymous No.1990637]

>>1990636
>PITA
??

[Anonymous No.1990639]

>>1990637
Not him, but I guess 'Pain In The Ass'

[Anonymous No.1990640]

>>1990635
There's a bit of clean-up and precautions involved but if you're used to miniature hobbying already it's nothing you can't handle. The good news is the actual printing part is quite easy and you don't have to tweak the variables much before you start getting the best results.

[Anonymous No.1990641]

>>1990640
Many years of dealing with minis and dealing with resin prints (just to poor to by my own for a while) so the clean up of the prints is no issue. For me i want it to be as simple as calibrate the machine, get an STL, click print and then have the mini in my hand

[Anonymous No.1990644]

>>1990641
Well it's not quite that simple yet but if you can find an auto-support software that works (I've heard good things about lychee slicer) and you have one of those automated wash and cure stations you're getting pretty close

[Anonymous No.1990661]

>>1990454
>>1990459
>The distance varies by up to 6 layers
but inversely to the cross section area of the print. smaller top greater ridge delta. what's your nozzle size?

[Anonymous No.1990664]

>>1990635
also if you're mainlining minis resin is a no-brainer. FDM are good for props but not so much making nice minis.

[Anonymous No.1990675]

>>1990414
Hair spray or watered down PVA(elmers or wood) glue, my man. Your prints will stick like a hot damn after.

[Anonymous No.1990676]

>>1990639
It's like an unleavened bread with a pocket in the middle.

[Anonymous No.1990682]

>>1990676
are we talking about white chicks?

[Anonymous No.1990683]

>>1990682
Probably more mediterranean but why not.

[Anonymous No.1990688]

>>1990414
>to slap painters tape
use the solid blue stuff

>>1990675
a glue stick is supposed to be good

>>1990626
also this. and check if the print is really flat on the bottom - I meshmixed a thing and some of the base was like 0.05mm above one piece and nothing I did would make it stick until I set the bottom to -Z in the slicer.

[Anonymous No.1990690]

>>1990683
Mediterranean chicks are more like some nice Italian bread dipped in olive oil. Unleavened with a slit seems more like some skinny white bitches with no backside.

[Anonymous No.1990697]

New thread >>1990696