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/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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1957476 No.1957476 [Reply] [Original]

I bought this balast for metal halide lamp.

Can someone tell me what wire do I need?

It says 0.75...2.5
Is that the range? Would 1.5 be ok?

Do I need silicone wires because it says 5 000 V?

>> No.1957549

Get an LED you nigger

>> No.1957569

What exactly is the point of standardizing 220v for European households? Look at this bullshit
>0.35a
>70 watts
What the fuck do you need that kind of voltage for? Some ancient energy inefficient microwave oven?

>> No.1957586

>>1957569
>What exactly is the point of standardizing 220v for European households?

You're missing the point numbnuts. Higher voltage uses smaller conductors. Copper costs money.

>> No.1957587
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1957587

>>1957569
The water over there is really bad. They need kettles to boil the water and kill the nasty shit in it. Then, they need tea to make all the now-dead nasty shit in it not taste so much like ass. While 110-volt kettles are fine, 220-volt kettles boil much faster, so they spend less time seething about our houses being made out of cardboard while it boils.

>> No.1957596

Since it has different watt ratings, you should use wire sized appropriately for the power going through it and what your bulbs want. There's probably a formula for it but I've long forgotten it.

>> No.1957609

>>1957476
every ballast has a wiring diagram

>> No.1957610

https://www.lighting.philips.com/main/prof/lighting-electronics/hid/hid-electronic-indoor/aspiravision-compact-for-cdm/913700684166_EU/product

>> No.1957619

>>1957587
>While 110-volt kettles are fine, 220-volt kettles boil much faster

Watts boils water, not voltage, anon. In America land of the Free kitchen areas tend to have 20 amp breakers, which is about 2200 watts at 110, and where I live it's 120, so 2400 watts. Are you telling me that they have higher wattage key tettles in bongland?

And I realize that probably nothing maxes out the breaker value, but were just arguing 4chan level here.

>> No.1957626

>>1957619
>key tettles

heh

>> No.1957702

>>1957549

Show me a UV-B led lamp.


>>1957610

Not the same thing.

>>1957609

Like I understand it.

>> No.1957847

>>1957619
2200 and 3000-watt models are common in the UK if Amazon.co.uk is to be believed. If you tried to run a 2200 watt electric kettle in the US (assuming it was made for our voltage) it would trip the breaker after a minute or two. Even at 20 amps, the breakers are rated to output that amount of watts for only a short time before tripping. For safety reasons they only expect something like 80% of the full ratting for contact loads. If a sparkly could check my numbers on that it would be helpful. You'd need a 30 amp service to run a 3000-watt kettle, which you can get but is rarer than other kinds of 120-volt runs.

>>1957626
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spoonerism

>> No.1957877

>>1957847
>for *constant* loads
Typo.

>> No.1958223

Can someone help me wire it?


I assume the top connection is the connection with the outlet. The middle is earth and the other ones are neutral and live.

The bottom one is earth, neutral, live to the bulb fitting.

Is that right?

>> No.1958283

>>1957476
You dont. Simple PVC would do.
Set power correctly tho, or lamp can overheat and you'll have mercury droplets in whatever fishtank you're making

>> No.1958286

>>1958283
Wait a second. What kind of bulb are you using? This is HID it says, not mecury tube, huh...

>> No.1958291
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1958291

>>1958286
>>1958283
Ok, didnt read the OP. So yeah.
This is how you connect. Live/neutral doesn't matter.
Wires - any. (0.75 to 2.5 mm^2 as it says, because you dont have much current there)
Insulation of wires - normal PVC, you dont need fancy insulation.

Reflector ground is not necessary, but it might be used to facilitate start of the lamp

>> No.1958394

>>1958291
Thanks. One more question.

Does the output polarity to the bulb (gray wire in your diagram) matter or no because it's AC?

I don't know if it's AC or DC

>> No.1958476

>>1958394
It doesn't matter, because it is AC.

>> No.1958560

Thank you for your help!

>> No.1958575

>>1957847
>Even at 20 amps, the breakers are rated to output that amount of watts for only a short time before tripping
This is wrong. They usually handle up to 15% more than the rated current without ever tripping. They never trip below the rated current. It is also common (and legal) for them to handle 45% overload for as long as an hour, but not longer. That 45% overload rule has been down adjusted at least in Norway in private homes to 20%. The wiring is dimensioned to handle this overload


On another note I don't understand how americans don't have the breakers trip constantly with such low voltage and wattage. The norm in Norway is that you can draw 3700W from a normal outlet. For stovetops it is 5750W


t. sparkie

>> No.1959211
File: 14 KB, 450x520, kl_faz6_trip_b_c_d.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1959211

>>1957847

In Eurostan we have B, C, D, etc. ratings and such.
I bet americans have similar thing.
What does it mean? It means that 16A breaker will trip in about 1 hour at 16+A. Or 60S at 32A. And so on.

>> No.1959217

>>1958575
Virtually every house still has 240v service. If you have an appliance that needs 240v like an arc welder or electric water heater you have a 240v outlet for it.

They will know when the house is built if it's going to need an electric or gas oven or range, so it will be wired already. I just looked up whatever cheap electric stove Google would give me and it was 6000watts.

The worst part is things like kettles. You either get a japanese style that always keeps the water hot, or you use a microwave to heat it more efficiently, or use your gas/electric range.

And vacuum cleaners. They're all designed and marketed for 15 amp 120v plugs, so nothing has more succ than the other, and at best it's not that great

I cant think of anything else UK or Euros can really brag about unless you all enjoy gathering around a 240v welder and putting some beads down with the family in the living room on a cold winter night.

>> No.1959221

>>1958575
>On another note I don't understand how americans don't have the breakers trip constantly with such low voltage and wattage.

Oh, I don't know, but I'll guess: THE DEVICES ARE DESIGNED FOR THAT VOLTAGE AND WATTAGE. moron.

>> No.1959358

>>1959217
>Virtually every house still has 240v service
>I cant think of anything else UK or Euros can really brag about unless you all enjoy gathering around a 240v welder and putting some beads down with the family in the living room on a cold winter night.

Virtually every house here has 400V and use that for powertools or anything else like car charger that may need more oomph

>>1959221
>moron
Imagine seething this hard just because you have a limp 120V system that only allows for limp electric apparatuses. I wasn't even attacking you guys, but I obviously hit a sore spot judging from your defensive beta replies. I have only seen this much seething when someone mention that your parents paid a doctor to mutilate your dicks as soon as you were born. God it feels good to be scandi

>> No.1959376

>>1959358
Reading comprehension is not your strong skill, but you have a powerful tea kettle, so I guess that counts for something. Have a nice day, fren.

>> No.1959379

>>1959358
Interesting. Almost every other country gets by just fine with single phase 240.

>> No.1959407

>>1959379
>Interesting. Almost every other country gets by just fine with single phase 240.
400V TN is the norm in europe. From this you can take out 230V which is what is use for pretty much everything. But still, 400V is the main (phase-phase) voltage going into the residential houses

>> No.1959411

>>1959407
Everything I've read is most 240v single phase countries dont have a neutral center tap off their transformers like the US and canada do. They have the same 240v winding we do, but they tie their neutral to one leg of the transformer so it's always 240v.


You sure you're an elechicken?

>> No.1959428

>>1959411
Been an electrician for a long time and currently I'm a manager at a hospital. 230V without neutral was common before, but everything newly built no matter if it is residential or industry is now supplied with 400V with neutral so you can take out 230V. Been that way for 30-40 years. There are still a lot of houses with the old system of course, but they too are sometimes converted when the trafo in the area needs to be changed