/3DPG/

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/3DPG/ Anonymous Thu Oct 15 08:33:20 2020 No.1930292 [Reply] [Original]

Lackluster Results Edition
Old thread: >>1926761
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-series, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks, Fusion360, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is your best bet.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 09:00:35 2020 No.1930301 Have you printed anything non-gay yet?

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 09:07:09 2020 No.1930304 What's the advantages of FDM vs. SLA?

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 09:08:04 2020 No.1930305 >>1930304 FDM is quicker and stronger (if you use the right filament). It's cheaper, requires much less post-processing, but sacricices resolution to do so.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 09:22:09 2020 No.1930308 So, what are the options for resuming a print after a power failure on an E3P?

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 09:54:04 2020 No.1930325 >>1930308 You switch it on without moving anything

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 10:00:57 2020 No.1930329 >>1930305 Any chance resin printing gets less complicated anytime soon? I don't want to mess with acetone misting and other shit like that

Anonymous Thu Oct 15 10:17:51 2020 No.1930334

>>1930329
No, it is a property of the material. You need to induce a chemical reaction for it to cure.
With FDM you use thermoplastics, the material itself is finished, you just need to heat it up and squeeze it out on the bed where it cools down.
No post processing because you don't need to finish up the reactions since the material is complete as it is.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 10:22:24 2020 No.1930339 >>1930334 Guess I'll hope for a higher res FDM printer

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 10:24:43 2020 No.1930340 >>1930325 As long as he has the setting enabled of course

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 10:24:49 2020 No.1930341 >>1930339 Good luck with that.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 12:24:49 2020 No.1930382 >>1930339 What exactly do you need higher resolution for?

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 12:32:43 2020 No.1930384 >>1930339 You can get pretty high resolution with a very small nozzle, very small layer heights and a properly tuned printer.

Anonymous Thu Oct 15 13:01:15 2020 No.1930402
File: 235 KB, 800x1200, IMG_20201015_175549.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Just got a elegoo mars pro and working with water washable resin from them. I think it's giving me a head ache even though I'm wearing a m3 mask with filters designed to protect me. How long do those filters last? Ive got some new ones on the way and these ones are a few months old.

What do you do with used kitchen roll? I've been putting it in a bin with a lid. Can I put the bag outside in the sun to cure the resin it soaked up or do I just seal the bag and dump it?

How do you deal with your resin cleaning water? I have a pot full of creamy white water. I put it in the sun but it didn't cure and sink to the bottom as I expected. Need to dispose of it before I can wash my next print.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 13:01:27 2020 No.1930404 >>1930382 He's probably a filthy smelly figurine faggot

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 13:03:30 2020 No.1930405 >>1930402 Forgot to mention. Mars is at the back of a shed but I have the door completely open when it's printing or I'm working on something.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 13:13:21 2020 No.1930411 >>1930404 That's the thing, .1mm layer heights can still make models that look pretty good, especially if you're looking at them at tabletop distance.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 13:52:58 2020 No.1930431 >>1930402 >How do you deal with your resin cleaning water? Just flush it down the toilet, make it the gubment's problem

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 15:02:25 2020 No.1930470 >>1930305 >quicker What a retard

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 15:03:53 2020 No.1930472 >>1930404 better than a fdmaggot

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 15:11:06 2020 No.1930474 File: 247 KB, 750x720, ok retard.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1930470 >no counterargument

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 15:20:58 2020 No.1930481 >>1930301 Dragon Dildos and decorative cock gourds for me!

Anonymous Thu Oct 15 15:27:00 2020 No.1930483

>>1930247
>>1930219
>Do we even have PLA pellets made in the USA anymore?
This is why the Chinkese "PLA" is probably not PLA.
PLA takes food stock to produce. China has such severe food problems that cardboard is mixed into food that humans consume at restaurants and grease is retrieved from gutters to reuse as food.
PLA production in China does not provide any economic advantages or even make sense in any way.
I don't know what it is, but it is very unlikely to be PLA

Anonymous Thu Oct 15 15:34:15 2020 No.1930488

>>1930483
Have you run it through a spectrometer? FTIR or ICP-MS?
Why are you so sure?
Knowing the chinese mindset it is probably more profitable for them to make PLA out of food then give the food to the people. Life is very-very-very cheap there, it is scary even.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 16:11:35 2020 No.1930505 >>1930483 America imports millions of metric tons of food from China every year. (However China imports even more from the USA)

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 17:42:36 2020 No.1930571 >>1930402 Can't you put the water in glasses or water canisters/bottles you keep for recycling, then put those into the sun?

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 17:53:06 2020 No.1930576 >>1930571 Water is a very good UV absorber/mirror, it will shield the resin clusters from the sun. Also winter is coming.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 17:58:13 2020 No.1930586 >>1930576 counterpoint, people very often recommend putting prints in water and then in the sun to cure them, why would they do that if the water shields it from UV?

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 18:02:03 2020 No.1930591 >>1930586 counter counterpoint, people recommend putting nylon fishing lines in water for storage so they don't get rigid and crinkly.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 18:32:55 2020 No.1930618 >>1930481 You should print a rope.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 18:55:58 2020 No.1930641 >finally ditched Fusion 360 and installed Solid Edge 2019 Feels good, the drawing is so much better and the program itself runs so much faster

Anonymous Thu Oct 15 20:02:11 2020 No.1930694

Has anybody had any luck importing complex stl files into Solidworks? I have an stl that I ripped and I want to make some adjustments to it, but Solidworks always says it's a bad mesh or bad imported surface and I can never seem to get it clean enough. I've tried to clean it up in Meshmixer, but nothing seems to make Solidworks happy and let me edit surfaces.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 20:23:35 2020 No.1930706 >>1930694 Good luck with that, Solidworks is notorious about being fussy of objects, can't even handle simplesurfaces. Throws itself into a fit when something has 0 thickness.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 21:48:56 2020 No.1930781 >>1930576 Having only ~10-20cm of water is not going to completely absorb the UVA, you're retarded. You need around 100cm to get any form of serious protection. Try it and come back and say sorry when it does work.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 22:16:19 2020 No.1930796 >>1930706 I was afraid of that. Is there a different piece of software that does edits of stl files better? The more CAD-based, the better if possible.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 22:18:35 2020 No.1930797 >>1930796 Honestly, surfaces are kinda an afterthought in most actual CAD software from this millenium. Try Rhino3D?

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 22:18:51 2020 No.1930798 File: 2.09 MB, 1602x1202, limescooter.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Finished my first big print. Holy shit this thing is slow. It's pretty cool though. Going to look for some CAD tutorials to design stuff when I get my calipers.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 22:20:56 2020 No.1930800 >>1930798 Printers still fall into the "good, cheap or fast, pick two" deal.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 22:23:06 2020 No.1930802 How come no one uses a feeler gauge for leveling

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 22:26:08 2020 No.1930806 >>1930802 What's harder, the brass nozzle tip or a piece of paper?

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 22:30:22 2020 No.1930811 >>1930797 Thanks, I'll check it out to see if I can make the necessary edits. I'm also trying to see if I can somehow make a mold of the stl in SW, but I'm having no success with that. Have you heard anything like that being done?

Anonymous Thu Oct 15 22:32:56 2020 No.1930812
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>>1930811
You can use a model to make a negative, yeah, though I haven't done it myself. There are a lot of limitations when it comes to geometry for casting you'll need to look into. Draft angles, for instance.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 22:38:01 2020 No.1930817 >>1930812 I'm see a lot of hits about creating a negative of a part, I'll try that out and if that does what I want. Thanks for the help.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 22:38:51 2020 No.1930819 >>1930817 Happy to help Pay it forward, eh? :)

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 23:26:21 2020 No.1930862 >>1930819 The stl I'm using (ripped a model from a game then cropped the hand of a character) is too complex, even after reducing it in Meshmixer. I'll have to try something else, thanks for the advice.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 23:27:30 2020 No.1930863 >>1930862 Blender, maybe? CAD programs are pretty unsuited to meshes but mesh-editing programs can work in a pinch if you don't need anything too complex. I've made functional molds using only Blender before.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 23:29:00 2020 No.1930864 >>1930641 Is it free?

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 23:30:09 2020 No.1930866 On an Ender 3, does the hot end fan blow towards the machine or away from it? I think I got shit mixed up when installing the hero me.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 15 23:32:09 2020 No.1930869 >>1930800 Yeah I don't really mind it. It's still amazing for the price point.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 00:52:11 2020 No.1930903 >>1930694 does solidworks offer a covert into solid option? In f360 I had luck with that, first trowing it into blender, remesh it with quadmesher and then turning it into a body in f360 >>1930866 towards the hotend

Anonymous Fri Oct 16 00:54:23 2020 No.1930904

>>1930903
It has feature recognition, but it can't discern design intent the same way you could and it doesn't know what tools would be used (which kinda dictates orders of operation), so you really have to babysit it.
Oftentimes, it's faster to just make it from scratch.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 02:05:41 2020 No.1930932 File: 2.70 MB, 226x400, magic_creality_smoke.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 02:26:16 2020 No.1930939 >>1930932 I think you're supposed to put an SD card in there

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 03:06:15 2020 No.1930942 >>1930864 Arrrrr, as much as you want it, matey

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 03:08:12 2020 No.1930943 >>1930932 >he doesn't check the motherboard and PSU before assembly and switching on You know you deserved this, right?

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 03:13:05 2020 No.1930944 >>1930932 is this what happens when you send 230V to a 110V psu?

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 03:31:03 2020 No.1930955 >>1930618 Nah, I'm only interested in the dragon dildos and cock gourds

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 04:09:46 2020 No.1930964 Any essential ender 3 mods to print? Already got cable chains, knobs, hero me and the z axis wedge.

Anonymous Fri Oct 16 04:16:19 2020 No.1930966

>>1930964
>cable chains
I was going to print these but I read the design has a bad bend radius and will damage the wires over time.
>hero me
Is this worth building? I was looking into it

>Any essential ender 3 mods to print?
I'm going to print a filament guide and pi camera mount

Anonymous Fri Oct 16 04:28:45 2020 No.1930968

>>1930966
>the design has a bad bend radius and will damage the wires over time.
The only problem is if the chains are tight. Use horizontal expansion -0.2 and then they'll be loose enough to work right.

>Hero Me
Have it, like it, but you'll need at least one bigger fan than stock, original won't cool shit with the ducts. Using 2x 5015 right now, easy to see the print head and see problems during printing.

>essential ender 3 mods to print
I use the side mount for the filament roll, no filament guide needed, have cover for display, Prusa style knob, fan covers (intake bell) and a handy housing for the SD to micro-SD adapter.

Anonymous Fri Oct 16 04:45:17 2020 No.1930972
File: 2.45 MB, 1369x1031, spool.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1930968
>Use horizontal expansion -0.2 and then they'll be loose enough to work right.
Ok I'll print a set for the bed and see how it fairs.

I'm also going to make the filament holder with 608 bearings. I don't like how the spool sits there instead of spinning freely.

Anonymous Fri Oct 16 04:53:21 2020 No.1930976

How do I into BLtouch on the Ender 3 pro?
Most tutorials on jewtube just plug it in and it just works.
I plugged it in and while I can control the probe and I have options for bed leveling when I tell it to auto home the Z axis never moves down towards the bed. Even with manual control it does not move down, only up.
I did print some shit yesterday without the BLtouch so the Z axis certainly works.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 05:01:13 2020 No.1930977 >>1930976 I've only used an ezABL, but I'm fairly sure you need to recompile (or get a stock creality binary for bltouch) and flash your firmware to support the probe.

Anonymous Fri Oct 16 05:08:06 2020 No.1930981

>>1930977
I forgot to mention it's the silent board but it looks like it does support it out of the box. I do have the BLtouch control menu, the bed leveling menu and the auto home movement changed as it should. It's just that when I hit auto home the probe gets centered on the bed but it's not lowered towards the bed to sense the Z stop.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 05:12:19 2020 No.1930983 >>1930976 it gave me some headaches to until i found this tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_1Kg45APko >silent board mine didnt support it out of the box, i needed to flash marlin and use a 27pin adapter. do you have the 32-bit version?

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 05:20:09 2020 No.1930988 File: 1.50 MB, 1632x1224, IMG_20201015_183314.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 05:23:02 2020 No.1930989 >>1930988 Spilled coke all over drivers side floor. Never again.

Anonymous Fri Oct 16 05:29:54 2020 No.1930991

>>1930983
Yea, it's the Creality 4.2.7 board which is 32 bit.
Also what he did in the video doesn't work for me because it doesn't seem to be any different than the commands I can send from the printer menu.
I used G28Z to tell the printer to home Z and it still does not move downwards.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 05:47:45 2020 No.1930997 >>1930989 That's just your own inaptitude, also a cup holder without holes works better in containing spillage

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 08:47:44 2020 No.1931041 File: 23 KB, 500x500, s-l500.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] What's your guys' opinion on Micro Swiss hot end? Worth it or overpriced meme?

Anonymous Fri Oct 16 10:13:24 2020 No.1931084
File: 3.88 MB, 4032x3024, IMG_20201015_204429.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>get new pla from a shop with mixed reviews
>some say it sucks, others say 0.02mm tolerances check out
>vacuum bag damaged
>first temp tower came out like this
can't get a rest with the shitty pla can i
>>1931041
I guess nobody here has an original of that
i dont see how this is better than a mosquito, dragon or volcano clone with a good nozzle. the heatbrake looks a bit small for something that is supposed to handle 500C or something

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 10:32:41 2020 No.1931089 >>1931041 I mean it looks pretty, but I'm not sure what it's supposed to do better than anything else for twice the price

Anonymous Fri Oct 16 11:10:32 2020 No.1931107

Lads! Just solved a strange Z axis issue along with strange bed leveling issues on the Ender 3 (Pro)
Signs were seemingly Z axis binding, prints had squashed layers producing "buldging belts" runnig the circumference of the print. Moving the X gantry by hand produced strange detent-like stickiness, this sometimes can be in a regular pattern, first suspicion was the X-gantry roller bearings. Took them out one by one, inspected them, no problems. Then noticed the X-gantry having a slop in Z direction even when the rollers were tight.
Further inspection revealed the screws holding roller plates had gotten loose. Took off the top frame, and tightened the screws while holding the gantry flush with the top of the plates. 2 screws for each plate. Carefully put it together and tightened the excenter nuts.
After auto home the nozzle was massively higher over the bed, where the springs were almost completely squashed (upgraded yellow springs).
Set the bed level, now the bed is sitting at a much more normal level, printer runs like a dream

Documented all this so others don't have to go through the hassle.
Also reminder to regularly check the screws on your printer. Cheers!

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 11:27:47 2020 No.1931118 >>1931089 I think we may have already peaked when it comes to hotend tech, anything new that comes out adds comfort features, but doesn't really bring any noticeable quality improvements.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 14:26:01 2020 No.1931238 >>1931118 It's honestly kinda startling how quickly additive manufacturing has matured after patents started expiring.

Anonymous Fri Oct 16 14:31:20 2020 No.1931239

Anybody here use Prusa Slic3r?

A few times it has randomly added a HUGE retraction in the middle of a print - enough to pull the filament right out of the got end, so far back the extruder can't grab it again... If I'm in the room and spot it, I can quickly push the filament back in and save the print, but I'm not normally there. The printer just happily chugs along going through the motions without laying any plastic

What have I done? My max retraction is set to 2mm, this is doing nearer 60mm for no good reason!!!

Anonymous Fri Oct 16 14:44:50 2020 No.1931246

>>1931041
I have the hotend (so only the bottom part) for my ender 3. I got it because my autism didn't like the PTFE-lined stock one and having to take it apart periodically because the bowden inside it was degrading. This one is all metal so I don't have to worry about that. Retraction is limited to 2mm max though but that's not a big issue. I paid about 70 euro for it but it paid for itself very quickly.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 14:45:02 2020 No.1931247 >>1931239 60mm wouldn't have you slide out of your extruder to begin with. It's clearly more than that. Also you should try another slicer if you have trouble with the Prusa one.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 14:56:45 2020 No.1931254 >>1931084 Get a vacuum bag machine and a car desiccant bag and leave it for a few weeks

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 15:00:42 2020 No.1931256 >>1931239 never had that happen, I use prusa slic3r on my prusa mk2s

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 15:32:14 2020 No.1931269 >>1931247 Maybe 80mm - I've got a Prusa i3 clone and the direct drive extruder is very close to the hot end >>1931256 Normal Slic3r never gave me these issues, may have to go back even though it has a worse interface

Anonymous Fri Oct 16 15:37:44 2020 No.1931271

So I've not used my printer for awhile and was setting it back up for a project. Can't remember the right temp settings for it so did some benchy prints to figure it out. Benchy comes out fairly good.

As soon as I do something larger I'm getting some curling, but its opposite the fan side, which is not what I would expect. Anyone have a guess?

Its an older makerbot knock off Flashforge, but with some upgrades done to it so usually sticking to the bed goes well.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 16:17:20 2020 No.1931292 >>1931269 Have you tried cura?

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 16:43:55 2020 No.1931300 I have an Ender 3 Pro and I want to change the fans since hotend fan is fucking dying and is now louder than the motors. Do the fans run on 24v like the rest of the shit? I really want to throw some noctuas on it so I really hope it's 12v or 5v.

Anonymous Fri Oct 16 16:48:24 2020 No.1931302

>>1930292
I wish you could print with decent non plastic materials, whatever I made it always broke eventually, you cant put much stress or presure on it and you can easilly seperate the layers of 3d prints with a knife or such, 3d printed metal prints are expensive on the alternative. I wish there was a better alternative than current 3d printing, maybe not casting or cnc milling, but some other type of 3d structuring objects.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 16:52:40 2020 No.1931304 >>1931302 SLA layers don't separate so easily, but I see what you're on to. 3D printing with metal would be fucking awesome. Even if we'd be printing with low strength shit like zinc it would still be miles ahead of plastic printing.

Anonymous Fri Oct 16 18:30:22 2020 No.1931338

>>1931238
Well I mean consider that we weren't starting from rocks and dirt like with say metallurgy or cars or microchips, we have been mastering plastics and automation and manufacturing for a long fucking time and 3D printing is just all of those things combined in some ratio of each other. The only real problems that had to be solved, other than the actual engineering of the printers, with stuff like best plastic composition for printing, best way to actually print it (ie hot end design), etc. Everything else was more or less an iteration or repurposing of technology we already had.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 18:33:15 2020 No.1931342 >>1931300 Yes they are all 24 volt. You can use a 12 volt fan with a buck converter if you would like, opens up a hell of a lot more possibilities especially to super quiet fans.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 18:59:58 2020 No.1931363 >>1930806 >falling for the copper-zinc jew

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 19:31:48 2020 No.1931392 >>1931271 Too hot. Increase fan speed, decrease temperature, or use a fan shroud to distribute the air flow. Probably reduce printing speed or increase layer time.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 20:00:21 2020 No.1931403 >>1931338 The weakest link, at this point, is the software. Non-planar 3D printing is going to really change the game.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 21:03:51 2020 No.1931435 >>1931107 Congrats!

Anonymous Fri Oct 16 21:26:41 2020 No.1931445

>>1931392
Thank you. You nailed it. Upped filament temp and took down the bed temp and it worked well. No idea why the default bed temp is so darn high I've got it 10C less than its default. I did replace the default bed with PEI though so maybe that is why.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 22:04:41 2020 No.1931464 >>1931239 Check the gcode, something's fucky. Shouldn't be doing that. Maybe your printer's going berserk?

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 22:16:55 2020 No.1931470 File: 25 KB, 665x574, 1509238848477.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Can I sleep next to my printer or will the plastic vapour make me more dumber? My bedside table is basically the only place I can put this thing

Anonymous Fri Oct 16 22:33:55 2020 No.1931478

>>1931470
Its not good to absorb too many fumes of anything but PLA isn't terrible, ABS can fuck you up though.

I had mine sitting on a plank of wood on the floor for ages and a concrete walk way slab for awhile to absorb sound and be a flat surface until I made a shelf for it. So you could just put it on a plank some place else.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 22:49:10 2020 No.1931488 >>1931470 It's one of the reasons I only print PLA. If you're printing something really toxic, you want a box around your printer with a fan pushing it through a dryer hose in out of a window.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 23:27:23 2020 No.1931504 File: 131 KB, 922x692, nuts.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1931107 Same problem, different solution. For me the Z-Axis nut coupler was not tight enough. It did fine on the lower layers but started sliping the further it went up.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 23:48:49 2020 No.1931513 >>1931084 >>1931254 A vacuum bag can't fix Chink or Amazon PLA

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 16 23:50:16 2020 No.1931514 Does anyone actually make money from selling scans and model files?

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 17 00:07:09 2020 No.1931517 >>1931514 What's even the legality of scans? Seems like you could really easily get your peepee slapped if you sold a scan for something that is copyrighted or something.

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 17 00:41:53 2020 No.1931524 >>1931517 Fuck. I might be in trouble. I just wanted to scan wildlife, like trees and marijuana plants and waterfalls. When did Amazon copyright those?

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 17 00:43:35 2020 No.1931525 >>1930301 >>1930292

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 17 01:03:55 2020 No.1931533 that ERYONE Filament any good? fairly positive reviews for it

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 17 02:29:01 2020 No.1931559 >>1931504 I had the same problem too. Drove me crazy trying to figure out which place was loose. Btw, what's the point of that flower pot design? Looks awkward for no reason.

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 17 03:44:00 2020 No.1931582 >>1931559 I dont know man, woman seen to love it.

Anonymous Sat Oct 17 04:15:16 2020 No.1931589
File: 3.65 MB, 4032x3024, 00000PORTRAIT_00000_BURST20201013124002780.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1931300
they do and if you run the stock hotend get at least get a 12v noctua and run it at 13-14V to prevent heat creep. non-silent fans work better.
>>1931254
>>1931513
its in my drying box now, I'll see if I get it to work
>>1930301
useful prints this month were a showerhead holder, adapter pieces so 11mm rolls fit on my ikea chair.
most of my prints were iterations for a 1:24 car chassis tho

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 17 04:19:59 2020 No.1931590 >>1931589 What kind of car are you building? I was wondering if I could 3d print a frame for a drift rc

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 17 04:55:55 2020 No.1931601 Does Cura's flow setting override the steps/mm I saved to Marlin 2's firmware?

Anonymous Sat Oct 17 05:07:39 2020 No.1931604

>>1931590
i want to build a RC car with video-streaming, got a diecast model car as a shell so it can take some abuse from kitties chasing it
Printed rc drift cars are doable, there are several YouTube channels for it and complete collections on thingi/ cults3d/ openRC
>>1931601
It should base the flowrate settings on your esteps, they are different parameters

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 17 05:16:21 2020 No.1931605 >>1931604 Yes, I saved the esteps as 94.5 (vs 96), but my printer is still under-extruding.

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 17 05:23:21 2020 No.1931607 File: 22 KB, 750x749, 1601057809915.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1931605 do i read that right that you lowered your esteps and are wondering why its underextruding?

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 17 05:27:02 2020 No.1931609 >>1931604 Sounds awesome. Gonna check out those channels. Might be my next project, thanks.

Anonymous Sat Oct 17 05:47:57 2020 No.1931613
File: 753 KB, 626x590, 2020-10-17 10_45_53.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1931607
Yes, I misremembered what I did yesterday. It was actually over-extruding and I corrected it with this command. In any case, this is PLA @ 100% flow rate. I had similar results before correcting the overextrusion.
Temps: 201, 203, 205, 207, 209.

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 17 05:55:24 2020 No.1931616 File: 696 KB, 629x508, 2020-10-17 10_54_21.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1931613 Temps: 200, 205, 215, 220, 225.

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 17 06:13:46 2020 No.1931619 >>1931613 >>1931616 Not going to lie, that looks like ass. Resembles partial clog btw. What nozzle and hotend type do you use, also what extrusion settings?

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 17 06:25:59 2020 No.1931624 >>1931619 Extruder is a DD MK10, nozzle is a cheap brass 0.4mm. The test is generated from https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#temp with 3mm and 30mm/s retraction (0 extra restart).

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 17 06:39:36 2020 No.1931631 >>1931624 >MK10 That is all metal hotend, right? Original or chinkshit?

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 17 06:45:45 2020 No.1931634 Man, fresh PLA prints so much better

Anonymous Sat Oct 17 07:00:33 2020 No.1931637

I've recently started using belts instead of leadscrew for me z axis. And at first it was meh, because the steppers were slightly underpowered. But now I have a stepper motor with a gearbox of 27:1 and my layers have never been this beautiful.

Great great upgrade.

Anonymous Sat Oct 17 07:20:16 2020 No.1931640

>>1931631
No, it's ptfe. I did buy a knockoff all metal but I threaded the aluminium and then reddit convinced me it isn't necessary. I don't want to spend too much money upgrading the existing carriage because it's a proprietary design, which may be the actual problem.

Anonymous Sat Oct 17 07:32:52 2020 No.1931641

>>1931640
I fount with PTFE lined hotends the stock one is the best. With all metal hotends the original microswiss is best while all the knockoffs and chinkshits being useless.
In short, PTFE, go stock. All metal, dish out for the original.
Hope this helps.

Anonymous Sat Oct 17 07:56:14 2020 No.1931653

>>1931641
I think it helps me give up on the proprietary setup. This is the printer: https://copymaster3d.com/products/copymaster-3d-400.. I got it for £250. It has numerous issues and was definitely a mistake for a first printer, but the frame is rock solid and it prints perfectly down to 0.05, except for the flow issue. If I treat it as a project hopefully I'll end up with something nicer than the CR-10 S4 for around the same price.

Anonymous Sat Oct 17 08:11:44 2020 No.1931661

>>1931653
If the frame and drive is solid then all you need is a better hotend. I'd recommend getting Ender/CR10 stock hotend if you don't specifically want to use it for PC/nylon/ABS
It is damn good for PLA and PETG, make sure you take out the two screws from the heat block and check that your hotend cooling fan has high airflow (if noctua throw that shit out)

Anonymous Sat Oct 17 08:53:10 2020 No.1931677
File: 1.87 MB, 1180x1031, 2020-10-17 13_42_23.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1931661
Something like this? https://www.amazon.co.uk/NO-LOGO-L-TAO-PULLEY-Extruder-Carriage/dp/B08664V2FH/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=cr-10%2Bcarriage&qid=1602938933&s=industrial&sr=1-4&th=1

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 17 08:55:09 2020 No.1931680 >>1931677 Not the pic, that's the current setup.

Anonymous Sat Oct 17 11:00:05 2020 No.1931727

>>1931677
Yes, that looks like the stock creality hotend in assembly with the carriage. You should know the stock Ender hotend is for bowden setup, you'll need a DD carriage for direct drive but I assume you already have that.
See if the hotend mounting screws line up, I don't know the displacement on the stock hotend, google is your friend.

You mentioned your retract setting is 3mm and using a DD. My bowden setup uses 4mm retraction, maybe you'll need to lower it on DD to about 1mm. The filament is short between extruder and hotend and doesn't need compensation for flexing. Maybe on ninjaflex and such you'll need longer retract.

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 17 12:00:02 2020 No.1931752 >>1931727 Thanks. It looks like the carriage I have isn't compatible. I'll try and find a kit that has one.

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 17 17:51:22 2020 No.1931930 File: 3.72 MB, 4576x3432, IMAG0271.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] My stacking feet just finished. Came out nice and mostly clean aside for some strings. Used inland pla+

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 17 18:41:02 2020 No.1931959 >>1930339 To add to what the others said Some filaments are better at hiding the layer lines. Check out the stuff architects, for example

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 17 19:40:38 2020 No.1931976 >>1931930 Nice surface finish, but you really should, as a general rule, give parts fillets or chamfers on edges. Sharp edges concentrate stress. It's also easier on your printer if it can gradually change the direction and speed of travel.

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 17 20:02:19 2020 No.1931993 >>1931976 I always give a 0.5mm chamfer on the intended bottom surface to mitigate elephant's foot

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 17 20:18:41 2020 No.1931996 >>1931976 >>1931993 Thanks I'll try that next time. I didn't know about the sharp edges.

Anonymous Sat Oct 17 22:07:29 2020 No.1932047

I'm working on a new 3D printer enclosure to keep the heat and the fumes in. This one will be completely enclosed, but I'm running into problems for how to get electrical power into the box. I suppose the simple solution is to cut a hole into a wall big enough for a power strip's wire, then permanently seal the power strip in with silicone caulk, but that's not very maintainable in case it fails. Is there such thing as a 2-sided AC outlet box I can use as a pass-through system where I plug the entire enclosure into a standard outlet on the outside, then plug in a power strip on the inside?

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 17 22:10:18 2020 No.1932050 >>1932047 You're overthinking it. The enclosure doesn't need to be air tight or water-tight. It's just there to keep heat in as much as possible.

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 17 22:31:16 2020 No.1932053 >>1932050 I'm trying to keep the fumes in too, so it needs to be airtight.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 00:05:56 2020 No.1932092 >>1932053 Put a fan sucking out from the enclosure and through a filter. Boom, your enclosure is now a negative pressure space and won't leak.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 00:08:04 2020 No.1932094 >>1932053 >I'm trying to keep the fumes in too It's easier to take up smoking. Then you won't care about the fumes getting out. Saves a lot of money.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 00:16:37 2020 No.1932103 >>1932047 I was thinking about using a big cardboard box to completely enclose my ender 3 and then just run a dryer hose out my window, i don't see why that wouldn't work for you.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 00:24:45 2020 No.1932108 >>1932103 >big cardboard box to completely enclose my ender 3 Definitely not a fire hazard

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 00:28:15 2020 No.1932110 >>1932108 gonna be vented out the top with 4" dryer hose dude

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 00:52:35 2020 No.1932134 >>1932047 move the PSU, display and main board out of the enclosure, then solder together a terminal for all the stepper/ hotend cables that stay on the printer. Or you have a window open while printing

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 03:04:15 2020 No.1932192 File: 311 KB, 1586x808, filament.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Anyone use these metal impregnated filaments? Do they actually provide more structural integrity or is it more about achieving a metal finish?

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 03:11:49 2020 No.1932196 >>1932192 Metalfill filaments are almost purely cosmetic. Anything that gives you additional strength usually needs to be sintered, otherwise it's just unconnected metal dust floating in a sea of plastic.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 03:14:02 2020 No.1932197 >>1932192 No but that conductive one could probably be used in multi material printers to make your own in house PCBs.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 03:16:17 2020 No.1932199 >>1932196 Can they rust? That would make a cool effect for models. >>1932197 That sounds awesome. Could a PCB be made in 2 layers? PLA or whatever for the base and swapped out to conductive when printing the traces?

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 03:22:01 2020 No.1932200 File: 293 KB, 600x450, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1932199 Yes, they can rust and oxidize the same way regular iron/copper/bronze/etc. do

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 03:22:33 2020 No.1932201 >>1932197 >>1932199 The resistance of these conductive filaments is too high for anything but very low current PCBs. And you also can't solder on them.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 04:03:16 2020 No.1932207 >>1932200 I knew that you can polish them but this is way cooler

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 04:06:14 2020 No.1932208 >>1932200 Have you seen the salt curing method? I wonder what happens if it was done with metal powder.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 04:58:42 2020 No.1932227 >>1932047 There are grommets for this. >>1932192 They cause accelerated wear on nozzles.

Anonymous Sun Oct 18 05:34:08 2020 No.1932236

>>1931403

Non-planar 3D printing is such a meme, even with the cleverest software you run into tons of physical limitations from the hotend's shape, the model's shape, the nozzle's shape... To gain what exactly, a bit of extra strength? The same visible extrusion lines, but arranged in a more pleasing pattern?

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 05:45:42 2020 No.1932240 >>1932236 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zo3H1yZxKPM

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 05:57:20 2020 No.1932244 File: 28 KB, 650x834, Stand v3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Made a new headset stand, just finished with the finishing touches and sent it to the printer

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 06:01:52 2020 No.1932245 >>1932240 I don't get your point, even if you stuck a hotend to it you run into the same issues i listed.There is a certain amount of Z-deviation you can have until you start bumping into finished parts of the model.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 06:07:26 2020 No.1932247 >>1932245 Man, if you can't see the practical applications of having layer lines in multiple directions when it comes to making functional parts, then I don't know what to tell you.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 06:07:26 2020 No.1932248 >>1932245 Don't forget that part cooling will be an issue as well

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 06:08:29 2020 No.1932249 >>1932247 Theory is one thing, application is another. Usually the two are very far apart.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 06:12:31 2020 No.1932250 >>1932249 Think about it: There are fairly affordable 5 axis routers out there, and those would have a hell of a lot more stress applied while machining than a print head would and yet they still manage to maintain more than adequate precision.

Anonymous Sun Oct 18 06:22:17 2020 No.1932251

>>1932250
Think about it, this is for some very specific geometries and brings its own spacing and cooling issues (at least), there will be a point where the issues will outweigh the benefits compared to regular printing, and due to the geometry of the print head you will reach it soon.
The print head is not a needle like on the 5D measuring machines, it is a whole block and there is the part cooling which alone needs its volume, big at least. You can lower some of these to some limited extent with ridiculous overengineering but then again you reach a point where it will cost too much and won't make it feasible.
Regular 3d printing is popular because it is cheap and it is cheap because it is simple. You are taking away the simple part.

Also think about what kind of geometry needs this kind of strengthening. Maybe you can design it differently to make it stronger or you can choose a different manufacturing method. Remember, 3D printing is useful but not a solution for everything.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 06:33:50 2020 No.1932252 >>1932250 >>1932251 You guys are pretty picky about your dragon dildos

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 06:37:11 2020 No.1932253 >>1932251 Not all printers being used right now are dirt cheap. If I had to choose between a powder printer or a 5 axis FDM, I'd much rather deal with the issues of the second than the first.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 06:37:13 2020 No.1932254 >>1932252 Nice lashback faggot. Come back when you have an engineering degree AND the experience

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 06:39:57 2020 No.1932255 >>1932253 How would you even make use of the 5 axes? There's no CAM software for 3d printers and slicers can only work 2.5D

Anonymous Sun Oct 18 06:41:53 2020 No.1932256

>>1932253
A robotic arm is very susceptible to vibrations. Even an Ender 3 style printer has a rigid frame and is immensly more stable than a cantilever one, a robot arm will be a nightmare to keep stable and has to be overbuilt to counter half of the vibrations caused by its own movements. We are talking about 5D jerk control on a basically single point fixed cantilever arm with a huge collective leverage. It will vibrate just from looking at it. Again, feasibility and overengineering for little to no gains.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 06:41:59 2020 No.1932257 >>1932255 Honestly, even the CAM software for your typical 3 axis printer is shit. They don't use G02 or G03 at all. Curves are just done as a bunch of small straight lines one after the other.

Anonymous Sun Oct 18 06:48:37 2020 No.1932259

>>1932257
Because that's how slicers work.
They slice up a mesh into planes of polygons. There is a efficient algorithm to do that. You quickly enter NP territory when you're trying to do something more complex.

Practically, it doesn't really matter since the kinematics of a typical 3d printer can't do curved movements anyway, it always has to be interpolated into linear movements at some point.

Anonymous Sun Oct 18 06:52:32 2020 No.1932261

>>1932257
Honestly that is not an issue and linear functions are easier to calculate en masse for the slicers. Software won't be able to judge geometry like a human would. G02 and G03 are for CNC routers with very different geometric calculations. Which is why slicers are free and CAM software like Siemens NX cost money.

Anonymous Sun Oct 18 06:54:15 2020 No.1932262

>>1932259
>>1932261
If we ever want hole tolerance to not be shit, we're going to eventually need actual circular interpolation.
Making toolpaths isn't hard if you know what you're doing.
It'd be a lot easier of infill was built into the CAD software, rather than the slicer.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 06:55:04 2020 No.1932263 >>1932262 >Horizontal expansion -0.2 There's your hole tolerance, fami

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 06:57:04 2020 No.1932265 >>1932262 CNC tools don't have horizontal squish. I'm beginning to think you talking about these things while you never worked on one or even seen one.

Anonymous Sun Oct 18 06:59:38 2020 No.1932267

>>1932262
Than you lose the biggest advantage a 3d printer has, generate tool paths from some random imported object with just a single press of a button.

Not even the best and most expensive CAM software can do that while giving you arc and multi-axis movements.

Anonymous Sun Oct 18 07:09:28 2020 No.1932269

>>1932265
>CNC tools don't have horizontal squish.
You wot m8?
There is not a single direction that an FDM printer receives more stress than a router. None.
>>1932267
Almost all the objects I print I draw up in CAD myself. The advantage of being able to print shit with zero knowledge/aptitude in CAD or CAM isn't applicable to me and I'd really like having more powerful tools for making functional parts.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 07:11:32 2020 No.1932270 >>1932269 That's it, now I know you are a full retard. Not going to explain shit, fuck off!

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 07:24:18 2020 No.1932275 >>1932270 Next you'll say that we don't need SW/Fusion/Inventor/etc because sketchup exists.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 07:28:30 2020 No.1932276 >>1932275 No, that is something you would say. Go read a book and finish school, kid.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 07:33:55 2020 No.1932279 >>1930988 what car?

Anonymous Sun Oct 18 12:12:02 2020 No.1932392
File: 59 KB, 640x480, 21F0356E-3C89-4082-9B41-5047A1A132DC.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1932244
It finished, looks great, is more stable than the previous one and the arm surprisingly holds strong, a normal headphone is not a problem

Also goddamn phoneposting, the pic is always sideways

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 16:34:48 2020 No.1932546 >>1932392 >the pic is always sideways That's because you're using an iPhone. Apple does photo rotation in the EXIF data, which 4chan strips when you upload your image.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 16:41:22 2020 No.1932552 >>1932392 Noice m8

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 18:02:43 2020 No.1932607 >>1932546 That's hilarious. I really don't get why people love Apple products so much that they spend thousands on them every year.

Anonymous Sun Oct 18 18:11:31 2020 No.1932614

My friend liked my 3D printer so they got one too, an Ender 3. It's cool shit. It's their birthday coming up and I want to make them a little bit set to replace the stock ones they would have been given. Can someone with an Ender 3 on hand let me know the sizes for their allen keys and wrenches?

Anonymous Sun Oct 18 18:45:23 2020 No.1932641

>>1932614
>Can someone with an Ender 3 on hand let me know the sizes for their allen keys and wrenches?
Everything in metric.
Allen keys: Just get a set. Be sure to include:
>1.5mm
>2mm
>2.5mm
>3mm
>4mm
Wrenches:
>6mm
>8mm
>10mm
Also a 2.5mm flathead screwdriver

They're all made of chinesium. You're doing him a great favour replacing them if you get him a proper steel set.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 18:53:15 2020 No.1932648 Yeah, first thing I did for myself was replace everything. Cheers for the shopping list.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 21:03:37 2020 No.1932719 >>1932607 unwarranted FOMO and keeping up with the Joneses

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 21:11:06 2020 No.1932724 >>1930932 >smoking >turn it on >more smoke >don't unplug lmao what the hell is going on here

Anonymous Sun Oct 18 21:19:43 2020 No.1932729

i recently discovered how great printing fat lines is, but i found i really can't push more than .6mm without the hotend getting a little too hot and causing extrusion issues with pre-melting the filament. the way my printer is set up though, there is a wood piece directly behind the hotend (no idea what they were thinking) so when i put a stronger fan on, it just ends up blowing the air back at the hot end and cooling that too isntead of just the heat brake. anyone have any weird tip/trick for managing fat extrusions? i was hoping to get up to 1mm layers, i'm already running 2.88mm filament on a diy hot end

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 21:27:25 2020 No.1932738 >>1932252 >You guys are pretty picky about your dragon dildos An expert sommelier is picky about their wine

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 21:32:50 2020 No.1932741 >>1932729 Why fat lines? Faster print speeds or something?

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 21:35:51 2020 No.1932743 >>1932741 it is a bit faster but mostly i find the prints are a lot stronger since there is more solid plastic area and a lot less interface area. i can only print PLA so without going to a stronger material this has been good for my prints

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 18 23:36:21 2020 No.1932802 >>1932614 add a 7mm hex nut to the list, its not included in any set and makes nozzle changes so much easier >>1932729 sounds like you want a super volcano hotend, it's huge but you can print 1mm tall lines with it

Anonymous Sun Oct 18 23:40:10 2020 No.1932805

>>1932802
is the reason they designed the volcano that you simply can't get enough thermal mass to hit 1mm layers without getting too hot in your heatsink or is it just something that makes it easier? currently i've DIY'd a lot of the parts in here for the 2.88mm upgrade, was hoping i'd just be able to tune parameters or add something to my current setup to hit 1mm

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 00:12:11 2020 No.1932825 Atomic extreme/ultra impact pla vs esun pla+? Anyone know which has better stiffness, abrasion resistance and overall durability?

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 00:19:07 2020 No.1932829 >>1932802 >add a 7mm hex nut to the list, its not included in any set and makes nozzle changes so much easier Don't you mean a wrench? Or do you use the nut as a placeholder or something?

Anonymous Mon Oct 19 01:05:38 2020 No.1932849

>>1932829
oh I was thinking of a ratchet because that's what I got but yes, a wrench or any other 7mm tool works just as well. while you're at it throw in a sparkplug-brush as well, they are made from soft brass and are great to clean the nozzle
>>1932805
from what I remember they used a longer nozzle to give the filament more time to melt up so you don't need temps that hot to achieve a big volumetric flow. A super volcano might be a bit excessive but you get 1.4mm nozzles for reliable high and thick extrusion

Anonymous Mon Oct 19 02:28:36 2020 No.1932868

On an ender 3 what does it take to print 2.85 filament? Can it be done with the stock lined hot end? Is it just replacing the standard bowden tube? There's a store with a bunch of dirt cheap closeout 2.85 rolls I want to grab but not if it's going to be a giant hassle.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 02:29:51 2020 No.1932869 >>1932849 At what point do you need a more industrial type plug and dedicated circuit breaker? Some of the faster printers look like they are generating enough heat that they require it

Anonymous Mon Oct 19 02:40:25 2020 No.1932873

>>1932729
>anyone have any weird tip/trick for managing fat extrusions?
Get a longer hotend like a V6 Volcano, it really helps smooth out the internal temperature problems you're experiencing. Also, never make layer height bigger than 75-80% of your nozzle: so for a 1mm layer height you need a minimum nozzle size of 1.2mm, that's printing very fat and likely exceeding the heating capacity of your heating element at any decent printing speed.
Printing low and slow is the patrician style though, all these zoomers with 300mm/s hotend speeds can't even keep up with my extrusion rates. Based as fuck.

>>1932741
Better strength, but also higher extrusion rates, meaning quicker printing. Print(head) speed is only one third of the equation if you want to print fast, nozzle size and layer height are both equally significant. If anything, more significant, because acceleration and jerk reduce effective speed.

Anonymous Mon Oct 19 02:42:23 2020 No.1932875

>>1932805
>is the reason they designed the volcano that you simply can't get enough thermal mass to hit 1mm layers without getting too hot in your heatsink or is it just something that makes it easier?
No, they lengthened the heating zone so the material can actually be heated at the rate required, otherwise you'd be pushing so much material into it, you'd be cooling the hotend and you run into thermal runaway protection. been there, done that.

Anonymous Mon Oct 19 03:30:22 2020 No.1932883

>>1932868
you need a new/ modified extruder, bigger tube and a new hotend, all easy changes but I think it'll eat up any savings on the filament
>>1932869
I don't know, seeing how PCs with a 1000W PSU don't need their own line I think any home-grade printer will be fine

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 03:41:12 2020 No.1932887 >>1932641 >Also a 2.5mm flathead screwdriver Got it with my ender3 too and never use it once. I have no idea what's it for.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 04:41:26 2020 No.1932914 What do you fags print with soft PLA?

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 08:53:22 2020 No.1932985 >>1932914 Ball collars

Anonymous Mon Oct 19 09:05:08 2020 No.1932987

>>1932869
>At what point do you need a more industrial type plug and dedicated circuit breaker?
Never? You should be more worried about what kind of cable is in your wall anyway. But it's only a problem if you're drawing a lot of power continuously. 3D-printers barely use any power.

Anonymous Mon Oct 19 09:08:00 2020 No.1932989

>>1932869
>>1932883
Desktop printers like the ender have a 300-500 watt psu generally. Let's just round it off and say 500, and considering switch mode power supplies are 80 to 90 plus percent efficient, will call it 80 because chinesium so it will pull 600 w from the wall to provide 500 w to the printer. Your standard wall outlet is good for 15 amps (yes it is almost guaranteed to be on a 20 amp circuit if it's made in the last 20+ years but we're going full worst case scenario here) which is 1800 watts, but taking into account the 80% rule of household wiring (you should only load a circuit continuously to about 80% of its Max capacity and also breakers tend to eventually trip at above 80% from heat buildup) that's a capacity of just under 1450 Watts. So with the power supply giving it all the beans and pulling 600 w from the wall, it still has 2.4 times more power to give and isn't even breaking a sweat at this point. Also consider that printers are not going to be sucking down it's full rated current at all times, usually it's going to be in the 50 to 75% range while printing. Only qreally when you're heating the hotend and bed and running the steppers at the same time are you going to approach 90 to 100%. Not going to need a 3 phase hookup for home printing for quite a while.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 10:09:02 2020 No.1932999 >>1932914 Dragon dildos

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 10:50:12 2020 No.1933013 >>1932887 I used it but can't remember what for. Maybe to push connectors in or out or help unstick the dragon dildos from the bed.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 10:58:11 2020 No.1933015 >>1933013 >>1932887 Used it once to install the silent board. Used it a second time to remove supports, which stripped the screwdriver. I don't think it's necessary at all.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 11:08:08 2020 No.1933020 >>1933015 >Used it a second time to remove supports, which stripped the screwdriver Fuck the what, I knew it was chinesium, but my god that's low

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 13:42:58 2020 No.1933075 Soft PLA or TPU for accessories/mounts for devices, what do you print in to prevent scuffing on tight fits?

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 14:04:33 2020 No.1933081 >>1933075 >what do you print in to prevent scuffing on tight fits First and foremost precision, then I think about the material. PLA or 96A TPU since that is the softest my bowden extruder can handle

Anonymous Mon Oct 19 15:21:22 2020 No.1933122

does anybody have experience with the craftbot plus? i could get one for 600 bucks (europoor, so most models are usually somewhat more expensive than what you might be used to in the us)
usecase would be a fairly open workshop, so it should be easy to use with minimal introduction, but ideally still produce decent prints
do you think that's a good deal?

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 15:43:05 2020 No.1933126 >>1933122 >250x200x200 Just get an Ender 3 Pro/Ender 5 Pro or CR-6

Anonymous Mon Oct 19 15:45:38 2020 No.1933129

>>1933122
Looks like a glorified Ender 3 with an enclosure.
For 600$ you could deck out an Ender 3 with good shit, build an enclosure and have money to spare too. If you care about build space then you could get a CR-10V3 which has a big 30*30*40cm build area.
If you're okay with spending time researching upgrades and building the enclosure yourself to save money then I suggest the Ender 3 Pro.
If you want something that you assemble and it just works then just go for the craftbot like the pleb you are.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 16:00:21 2020 No.1933139 >>1933126 >>1933129 ender 3 it is then, thx

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 16:38:04 2020 No.1933154 >>1933129 Yeah If you're going to spend that much money on a tarted up ender and don't want to build one up yourself, spend the extra two or three hundred bucks and just get a prusia, really.

Anonymous Mon Oct 19 16:50:36 2020 No.1933157
File: 1.50 MB, 4032x2460, _20201019_225003.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>springs are in the mail
>chassis on it's wheels for the first time
print quality is anywhere from pretty good to"functional"
what I've noticed is that cura has problems printing small parts, even when the print thin walls/ details option is checked. Prusa slicer looks good in the preview but the parts come out bad. So far the fusion360 slicer works best but lacks some features like horizontal hole expansion
>>1932989
interesting approach, I got curious and looked up my breakerbox, the fuses are rated 16amps so 3680W. my ender3pro is rated 270W, let's say 300W, I'm well in the green.

Anonymous Mon Oct 19 18:07:47 2020 No.1933185

>>1932989
>(you should only load a circuit continuously to about 80% of its Max capacity and
A continuous load is defined as more than three hours.
>also breakers tend to eventually trip at above 80% from heat buildup)
You need to replace the breaker if this is the case. It's failing.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 18:59:56 2020 No.1933207 >>1932999 Pic?

Anonymous Mon Oct 19 19:11:19 2020 No.1933215

>>1933185
>A continuous load is defined as more than three hours.
Yes I know and should have elaborated, however it's not irrelevant considering how many continuous hours print times tend to be
>You need to replace the breaker if this is the case. It's failing.
Depends if you have an 80% or 100% rater breaker. https://www.se.com/us/en/faqs/FA104355/

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 19:14:02 2020 No.1933218 >>1933157 >3680w Ah a 240 volter. Yes in that case you have even less to worry about because your devices will draw even less current, an e3 might pull a max of 3 amps at 120v but only about 1.5 at 240v so you have even more headroom.

Anonymous Mon Oct 19 19:32:21 2020 No.1933231
File: 40 KB, 1052x592, untitled.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1930292
>be me
>have bed adherence problems, especially with spiky things with u-turns curling up and away from the bed
>design phone holder thingy
>lay it out so the first layer is made up of spiky things and u-turns
I am not a smart man. Let's see how it ends up.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 19:34:36 2020 No.1933233 File: 117 KB, 1920x1080, untitled.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1933231 If anybody's interested >inb4 no we're not Fellate me

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 19:36:47 2020 No.1933234 >>1933231 Level bed Do 1st layer slow

Anonymous Mon Oct 19 19:40:40 2020 No.1933236

>>1933234
Desu. Putting detents on the knobs helped me not level it every single print because they drifted so I jewed out of getting locknut knobs. I reduced the brim/raft/first layer speeds to 10mm/s and that helped loads too. Also pumped up the bed temp to 60ºC so once it sticks it sticks. But I'm still spooped by past experiences.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 19:41:43 2020 No.1933238 >>1933233 You could've done that with curves, looks and feels much nicer

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 19:44:22 2020 No.1933241 >>1933236 Same, detents were a godsend. What material? I do tpu and pet at 15 for initial layer and 25 for pla so 10 seems slow especially if pla. Yeah I assumed you had a 60+ degree bed so upping that will help a lot.

Anonymous Mon Oct 19 19:49:16 2020 No.1933243

>>1933238
It's a deliberate decision; it's for a relative of mine, and her company has an angular graphic theme.

>>1933241
PLA. I had 20 mm/s and printed dish after dish of spaghetti, even at 60ºC. Maybe I could try a higher temperature to go back to 20mm/s. Maybe it's my mexican shithole PLA. Maybe it's my stock bed. Maybe all of the above.

Anonymous Mon Oct 19 19:54:10 2020 No.1933245

>>1933243
Adjust z offset to get nozzle closer? If it's leveled and all other settings are correct and working then there's no reason you should get spaghet with pla of all things. It could indeed be your filament, I'm guessing you're implying it's local. If you're the same mexianon who was talking about importing his printer a few weeks ago I would also assume importing filament would be extremely expensive too.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 20:05:01 2020 No.1933249 >>1933231 Use Cura, I always found Prusaslicer to be quite shit on the first layer with the same bed leveling and adjustments compared to Cura

Anonymous Mon Oct 19 20:05:21 2020 No.1933250

>>1933245
>Adjust z offset to get nozzle closer?
I have been suggested that too, might try it Soon(TM).
>It could indeed be your filament, I'm guessing you're implying it's local
Desu
>If you're the same mexianon who was talking about importing his printer a few weeks ago
I remember talking about my mexican shithole but it's not Mexico, it's Argentina, with it's now ten-month Kung Flu shutdown/self-general strike, import shutdown, and over 50% exchange tax.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 20:06:04 2020 No.1933251 >>1933231 >>1933249 Also clean your bed with alcohol multiple times, fresh wipes to get your fingerprints and bodily fluids completely off of the surface

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 20:07:38 2020 No.1933253 >>1933249 I am indeed using Cura. Might try reducing the z-offset like the other anon said. >>1933251 Desu. I'm just wiping it with a sponge now and then, sometimes with medical/food-grade ethanol, but I'm aware the recommended -ol is isopropanol.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 20:08:39 2020 No.1933255 >>1933251 >get your bodily fluids completely off of the surface Also don't worry, I get the dragon dildos off the printer before using them. For now.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 20:13:55 2020 No.1933259 >>1933250 Yeah it was a different guy, he specifically said he lives in a small mexican state/whatever they're called and had I think 100% tax

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 20:19:26 2020 No.1933261 >>1933231 Put a brim on it in CAD and then use the "print outer walls first" option in Cura. If you still have issues, hairspray the spot you'll be printing on.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 20:19:46 2020 No.1933262 >>1933259 That's exactly me; my Ender 3 cost me around ARS50K after taxes. At the free exchange rate, it was around USD350, but at the official exchange rate it was around USD700.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 20:24:03 2020 No.1933263 >>1933262 >>/diy/thread/S1896442#p1900882 That's me.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 20:34:49 2020 No.1933267 >>1933261 I'm aware they work, and have tried brims and rafts, but I'm trying to avoid supports and additives

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 20:38:52 2020 No.1933272 >>1933267 The way I see it, a 4mm brim of .12mm thick is a reasonable amount of waste if it prevents prints from being completely scrapped.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 20:44:56 2020 No.1933276 >>1933272 Desudesu, but it requires some paring and maybe sanding. That's why I rolled back those and I'm playing with other parameters. Right now the only uncomfortable part of my setup is the slow first layer.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 20:49:39 2020 No.1933281 >>1933255 You could write a god generator for that. Have you seen the extruder go at those narrow infills, I always wish that were me.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 20:50:27 2020 No.1933285 >>1933276 .12mm is paper thin. You can peel it off with your finger nail.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 20:51:02 2020 No.1933287 >>1933281 You could write a gcode generator for that. Have you seen the extruder go at those narrow infills, I always wish that were me.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 21:18:46 2020 No.1933299 Need some recommendation for a caliper that doesn't cost the same as a 3d printer.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 21:21:05 2020 No.1933303 >>1933299 >use a shitty caliper >3d-print a semishitty caliper or a semishitty caliper attachment for a nonshit ruler

Anonymous Mon Oct 19 21:38:39 2020 No.1933313

>>1933303
been using this one for a month short of 3 years now, works great and the only issue ive had is the zero button works when it feels like. i could probably open it up and replace the little switch, but meh you just have to find the right way to press the button. that specific brand doesnt sell anymore so just find any of the similar looking ones under different names and you should be good to go.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XVWHLL4

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 21:47:59 2020 No.1933319 >>1933259 >100% tax Fucking what?

Anonymous Mon Oct 19 21:54:21 2020 No.1933327

>>1933299

Literally any of the electronic calipers on eBay are good enough for the tolerances typical of a 3D printer.

Alternately, I'm a fan of dual-scale dial calipers, because fuck batteries. I also have a (probably counterfeit) Mitutoyo vernier that I picked up as a bulletproof "I'll probably have this thing until the day I die" backup. That one gets left in a drawer next to the computer as a "I'm modelling something and need measurements" tool.

Tl;dr: https://www.ebay.com/itm/332568970700

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 22:04:20 2020 No.1933335 >>1933319 Brazil is similar. You either had to smuggle stuff from Paraguay where they have virtually no import tax, or request the chinks open the box, and declare it as used.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 22:06:12 2020 No.1933337 File: 36 KB, 504x370, untitled.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1933319 Every time you pay for something, half of it actually goes to the gubmint some way or another, so you're actually paying double what you'd actually pay your purveyor

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 22:11:41 2020 No.1933341 >>1933335 >smuggle stuff from Paraguay Nonono, you "go on a holiday" to Ciudad del Este with twenty friends, legally buy stuff there, and then bring it home as personal effects, not smuggling at all ;3

Anonymous Mon Oct 19 22:32:21 2020 No.1933348

i'm new to the world of wanting to own my own a resin printer instead of using my university one , I'm looking for the criteria of good, and cheap, speed is whatever. Affordable in maplebucks. Any advice for me?

yes i read the topic post, I dont know the differences between the posted printers enough to make an educated purchase.

Anonymous Mon Oct 19 23:00:50 2020 No.1933361

Im sure this has been asked a bunch but Im gonna ask it any ways. Whats a good hot end upgrade for a ender 3? I have had mine for over a year and its been great but I think the last nozzle change I did might have bent something as now every new nozzle I put in acts like a partial clog.

I have a EZabl and trammed in the bed and gantry and it used to print great up till I had a clog. I also have a titan extruder on it and a second Z screw. I averaged about 5 nozzles over a year running all weekends... But now I think its time to update the hotend.

I would rather spend a little more for quality if it make it more reliable.

Also with all metal hot ends why cant you do big retracts? right now I do about 4.5mm and even have a unload and load script that pulls out the filament at the end of a print then feeds it back in at the beginning at the next print so that I can change filament when cold... I wont be able to do that with a full metal hotend?

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 23:21:50 2020 No.1933369 >>1932999 I prefer TPU for dragon dildos. There has to be something I can use all of this leftover soft PLA for

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 23:23:34 2020 No.1933373 >>1933369 Dragon dildo silicon molds

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 23:24:36 2020 No.1933375 >>1933373 *silicone

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 23:25:26 2020 No.1933376 >>1932989 Bravo anon! It is rare to see such informative replies! You are an asset to our community. I hope it gets saved somewhere easily accessible so I have access to it when I finally can afford industrial printers or a printer farm.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 23:30:55 2020 No.1933382 File: 138 KB, 1654x523, Printer power consumption.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1933376

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 23:32:10 2020 No.1933383 >>1933373 >>1933375 I'll just use regular PLA for the dragon dildo silicone molds, because it prints faster. Is soft PLA completely useless?

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 23:44:03 2020 No.1933388 >>1933383 You use it for stuff that needs to not be brittle, maybe handles and the like. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gh5wC4Ti95s

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 19 23:44:39 2020 No.1933389 >>1933383 Maybe for easier release dragon dildo molds, or compliant mechanisms

Anonymous Tue Oct 20 00:02:02 2020 No.1933394

>>1933341
Lmao. Reminds me of an old joke.
Every day, the Brazilian customs police would observe an old woman riding her vespa scooter across the border from Paraguay with a large sack strapped to the back. After a few weeks of this, the agents couldn't ignore the blatant non-declaration of goods, so they pull her over. All she had in the sack was a a bunch of hay. This went on, day by day, for a period of a month. Exasperated, the agents ask her what she was doing going back and forth. She agrees to tell them what she's doing if they promise to stop harassing her. Of course they agree. "I bring a new scooter back to Brazil every day".

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 00:08:52 2020 No.1933398 >>1933394 Great, now I have to print myself a new pair of sides

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 00:33:13 2020 No.1933410 >>1933389 >>1933388 But, in that case, it under performs compared to TPU?

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 00:36:17 2020 No.1933411 >>1933410 Design for the material you're going to make it out of.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 02:54:29 2020 No.1933452 >>1933231 try mesh bed leveling to make up for your probably warped bed, you have to flash marlin first tho

Anonymous Tue Oct 20 04:16:41 2020 No.1933463

>>1933376
Cringe. The numbers are hugely exaggerated. If you aren't retarded and want actual useful information, look up or measure the real power draw, look up specifications for your cables and trip curves for your circuit breakers or fuses to understand what's really going on.

Anonymous Tue Oct 20 04:39:37 2020 No.1933471

>>1933463
Not only that, the anon only calculated it for the retarded US standards. No wonder so many of those US paperhouses catch on fire, even a simple washing machine can overdraw the household wirings.
Proper EU standards allow drawing 4400W on a 20A line, 3500W on a 16A normal line, you can apply the 80% safety rule and you get 3500W and 2800W respectively.
The 600W of the printer is vastly inside of the safety margins, just don't be a retard and connect everything to the same outlet.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 05:31:19 2020 No.1933478 >>1933394 >>1933341 >>1933335 Is there a store that sells ender 3 printers in paraguay? Can't seem to find any.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 05:32:30 2020 No.1933479 >>1933478 Just order from Amazon like a normal person

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 05:45:21 2020 No.1933484 >>1933479 Fuck Scamazon.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 05:47:05 2020 No.1933485 >>1933484 Fuck you then, nigger, buy an Anet, you deserve it.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 05:59:08 2020 No.1933490 Are the decals on build tak just vinyl transfers?

Anonymous Tue Oct 20 07:05:19 2020 No.1933511

I want to update the firmware on my Ender 3 Pro (I just installed the silent board, so I already have a bootloader), but there are so many Marlin variants for the Ender 3 that I'm not sure which one I should be using. There is Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 Pro V1.5, Ender 3 Pro V2, 4227, etc. Fuck knows what I need. Any help?

Anonymous Tue Oct 20 07:26:13 2020 No.1933518

Printing a machine block prototype for a boltmaker. The problem is that the machine prematurely calls the job done even if it is nowhere near done. Printing with an ender 5, .1mm layer height, 210/70c, using flashforge 1.75mm on a 4mm nozzle. Machine stopped dead like this after saying 100%.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 07:26:55 2020 No.1933519 >>1933319 In Hungary there's a VAT of 27% on non-essentials, so it's within the realm of possibility.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 07:27:44 2020 No.1933520 File: 1.46 MB, 2448x2448, 20201020_222320.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1933518

Anonymous Tue Oct 20 07:36:25 2020 No.1933522

>>1933520
have you checked if the sliced model looks good in the preview? my best guess is that either the gcode or the SD card/reader fucked up along the way.
you also might want to check this failed print for tolerances and dial them in for your next print

Anonymous Tue Oct 20 07:59:39 2020 No.1933531

>>1933522
Slicer looked pretty good in the preview.
I found what the problem was- the stock creality slicer is absolutely terrible. I had a problem that it would read the model as being 10mm in the air even when dead flat on the ground in the slicer itself, and the issue fixes itself when the model is flipped and unflipped again. I downloaded Cura and it works immediately.

Goddamn, I could have saved myself so many headaches in the past few months.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 08:13:48 2020 No.1933534 >>1933463 >The numbers are hugely exaggerated. He literally said he's going for worst case scenario >>1933471 >Rent free

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 08:16:58 2020 No.1933537 >>1933519 I agree, it is fucking stupid, everywhere around us the VAT is 21% to 19%

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 08:18:56 2020 No.1933538 >>1933531 I never bothered to install the creality slicer (which is just Slic3r with some shitty patches) and went straight to Cura. Printed without problems from the start.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 08:36:01 2020 No.1933549 >>1933537 Nevermind the burgers with rates like 9%. Also stuff like 10-15% income tax. Well, at least we don't have niggers (yet).

Anonymous Tue Oct 20 08:44:57 2020 No.1933553

>>1933549
So is the VAT the only tax you pay on goods or no?
Im a burger and have no VAT, but I pay a federal tax, a state tax, and a local tax (which end up around 25%) every time I buy a product.

Also dont believe /pol/, the niggers arent actually a problem in 95% of the country. They dont mess with people unless you go into the ghetto, all their crime statistics are valid because the poor criminal niggers live in segregated cities which are like war zones. But they stay in those war zones and the affluent white cities nearby have strong police presence that stop them from leaving.

Anonymous Tue Oct 20 08:47:29 2020 No.1933555

>>1933549
>Well, at least we don't have niggers
We do, they just don't stick out that much (no, not the jews)
There is an ongoing initiative to rein in the 3D printing (materials, parts and selling machines) under gov't backed nazi slimeballs (NER) but I don't see how they can stop online places like Amazon and Ebay

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 08:56:26 2020 No.1933563 >>1933553 >So is the VAT the only tax you pay on goods or no? Yes. I didn't know it could come out to about the same in the US. We also have nearly 40% income tax in the lowest brackets.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 08:58:06 2020 No.1933565 >>1933563 With the same VAT things are still vastly cheaper in the US

Anonymous Tue Oct 20 09:03:59 2020 No.1933569

>>1933549
Enjoy it while you can, BTW your taxes aren't going down if they do arrive they're only going up. Got to pay for those poor sad rapists!

>>1933553
>That whole second paragraph
Yikes. It's a fact as immutable as the sky being blue, niggers ruin everything. If a strong police presence actually did keep them segregated then we wouldn't have very many problems, but it doesn't because das waysis. They actually get integrated into the non ghettos, usually on taxpayer dime, specifically because they drive down property values and cause white flight and dirt cheap property for (((you know who))). Facts and statistics don't lie, 13/50 is real and while yes a very large amount of that percent is black on black the fact remains that all black on non black crime outweighs non black on * crime by an unbelievable margin. /Pol/ is always right.

Anonymous Tue Oct 20 09:07:05 2020 No.1933572

>>1933563
>We also have nearly 40% income tax in the lowest brackets.
I pay ~36% income tax (state and federal and local, independent of sales tax) right out of my paycheck (if you include health insurance, because its pretty much a tax)

People clamoring about how bongs pay most of their income to taxes never actually took the time to look at their own paycheck. Our taxes arent much less. Its a huge misconception. We just break it down into a bunch of different bite size chunks that seem less until you add them all up. Its intentionally obfuscated, and tax reform has been lobbied against by the tax companies who make money filing peoples taxes each year due to its complicated nature.

>>1933565
I really dont think it is once you take into account ALL of our taxes and things like median wages and the currency exchange.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 09:09:52 2020 No.1933574 >>1933569 >Facts and statistics don't lie No they dont. The people who dont use their brain for critical thinking when looking at the facts and statistics are the ones who lie. Though a large portion of people are just too stupid honestly.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 09:13:59 2020 No.1933579 Does anyone here use their 3d printer for printing anything other than absolutely useless shit they could have bought for cents or manchild toys?

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 09:15:36 2020 No.1933580 File: 3.17 MB, 4032x3024, 20201011_194031~2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1933579 Sup >Inb4 janny banny

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 09:18:16 2020 No.1933584 >>1933580 I hope you have good health insurance

Anonymous Tue Oct 20 09:26:39 2020 No.1933590

>>1933572
>Living in an income taxing state
Lol. I pay 12% federal because we usually make 70-75k a year, occasionally moving up to the 22% now and again if we have a good year. Cleared 120k last year, shit was cash (literally). Sales tax is only 8 3/8% in my state and, well, that's it. No other bullshit, 12 or 22% per year.
Anyone who says filing their taxes is difficult is an absolute brainlet, as an individual it's extremely easy. there's a million free services and free tutorials that can help you take care of it in a couple hours. Unless you're a special case or a business or something there's absolutely no reason you should need to have a tax guy do it for you.

Anonymous Tue Oct 20 09:32:59 2020 No.1933594
File: 636 KB, 1440x2555, IMG_20201020_062722.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1933584
>He doesn't tie his DIY guns to a tree and remotely pull the trigger to proof them
Don't know about you but I like having my fingers. Also considering that in testing they've gone 1500-2000 rounds with bog standard ching chong pla from Amazon and DIY aluminum rails with no discernible wear, I think I'll be okay

Anonymous Tue Oct 20 09:33:54 2020 No.1933595

>>1933590
You have to file state and federal taxes separate, seeing how you are from one of maybe 3 states that done have state taxes maybe you dont know that.
Every single state does it differently.

So no, filing taxes isnt necessarily hard now that there is a bunch of free services (because Obama made that a law), but its not as straightforward as it could be. Especially since it varies from state to state, and the free services try to trick you into paying for the service.
Also the law for free tax filing doesnt include state, so every "free" service charges you like $40 to do your state taxes at the same time as the federal ones.

It wouldnt be a big deal, except for the fact that fucking up on your taxes has huge penalties.

Anonymous Tue Oct 20 09:36:03 2020 No.1933596

>>1933534
>He literally said he's going for worst case scenario
But it's not a real world scenario, it's just plain retarded. Going by the rating of the power supply is fucking stupid. Same goes for stupid rules of thumb. Yes, staying on the conservative side of things is generally a good idea, especially if you know fuck all about your electrical installations, but that's about the only valuable point in that otherwise useless wall of text.

Anonymous Tue Oct 20 09:46:16 2020 No.1933604

>>1933572
I can tell you here in Hungary the median wages are 3-5x less compared to EU and US, in some cases 10x.
Also being self employed means working for a $100 with all the taxes and whatnot leave you with $30 in average, while having to pay more for goods and all of this on top of that $100 work you did worth $500 just one border to the west.
Stop defending the bullshit, anon.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 11:28:24 2020 No.1933639 >first time printing ABS >very nice finish, ridges between layers are almost nonexistent >but it curled like a motherfucker despite being a small part under 3*3 cm and using brim I don't even want to know how it will be when printing a larger part.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 11:44:43 2020 No.1933649 File: 235 KB, 1493x913, 56565687456.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Is there a quiet 3rd party board that will drop onto these mount points?

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 12:55:02 2020 No.1933683 >>1933157 >using bolts as slide bearings yikes

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 13:10:56 2020 No.1933693 File: 184 KB, 665x662, 1qa066.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Layer shift at 18 hours of an 21 hour print that requires 100% infill because I'm to lazy to do propper cable management on my DIY printer.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 15:05:45 2020 No.1933763 >>1933580 I kinda want to make a G26 size grip with a G17L size slide, just for shiggles.

Anonymous Tue Oct 20 15:38:01 2020 No.1933781

>>1932989
>Desktop printers like the ender have a 300-500 watt psu generally.
I have 9 printers in the same closet on a single 20-amp breaker. I use a Kill-A-Watt to keep an eye on both peak amperage and average wattage over each week. None of the printers ever come close to going over 50% of their power supply rating. The highest amperage I've ever recorded was 14 amps across 10 printers. That's 168 watts each. And that is usually at the timeframe where half the printers are heating up and half of them are just starting to print.

Once they're all underway and just maintaining temps while printing the amperage drops down to around 8 amps. Or just under 100 watts each. Given the small size of the closet they are in, they probably gain some efficiency from the fact that they're all keeping the closet fairly warm.

Anonymous Tue Oct 20 15:59:19 2020 No.1933789

what kind of nozzle sizes are yall running?
Started using a 1mm nozzle on my ender 3 a week or 2 ago and I can't go back to smaller nozzles. Decreased print times are too sweet. Also idgaf about surface finish since most of what I'm doing is utilitarian.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 16:11:28 2020 No.1933792 Any news on the prusa XL? i want a big printer

Anonymous Tue Oct 20 16:13:15 2020 No.1933795

Anyone else had problems with the knob on the Ender 3?
Mine just started to get stuck and when I push the damn thing it stays pressed and it's really hard to get it out of that position.
>tfw only had the printer for like a week
Fuck this chinesium shit.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 16:34:35 2020 No.1933810 >Check on printer during 10hr print >Filament knotted >Get it undone before it causes problems >Nozzle is clogged, need to fit a new one and level the bed REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 17:28:58 2020 No.1933840 >>1933795 >The knob ??

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 17:31:01 2020 No.1933843 >>1933795 Are you retarded? That knob is keyed.

Anonymous Tue Oct 20 17:48:37 2020 No.1933850

>>1933840
The thing you use to select shit on the screen. It got really hard to turn all of a sudden and it got stuck in the down position when I tried to select something.
I took it out and lubed it with a bit of silicone oil. Now it rotates smoothly again but I can't press it at all so I can't open the menus.

>>1933843
What do you mean by keyed?

Anonymous Tue Oct 20 18:23:42 2020 No.1933864
File: 1003 KB, 3264x2448, 3264-2448-max.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

It looks like my printer head was laying strings on the inside of my whistle here, i'm guessing it didn't lift up enough when moving?

anyone have an idea as to what caused this?

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 19:06:19 2020 No.1933882 >>1933850 Oooooh that knob. Contact creality, they'll send you another screen unit. alternatively you can replace it with a TFT35 touch screen or something, if you were going to already.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 19:07:52 2020 No.1933883 >>1933864 In Cura you can tell it to retract the filament for travel.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 19:11:19 2020 No.1933886 >>1933883 >>1933864 Me three, I was just playing with this. Haven't printed it yet. Goto experimental > enable coasting

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 19:33:52 2020 No.1933901 >>1933484 This

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 19:36:51 2020 No.1933904 >>1933553 >They dont mess with people unless you go into the ghetto WTF are you talking about? I live in a nice part of an undiverse city and blacks have stolen several cars and $20,000 worth from houses within 1km of me over the past 6 months.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 19:42:54 2020 No.1933910 >>1933579 Dragon dildos

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 19:45:00 2020 No.1933913 File: 55 KB, 540x590, Dear Thieves.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1933904 There's a very simple way to stop that kind of behaviour.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 19:46:43 2020 No.1933914 >be me >mention in passing that argieland is a shithole with high taxes and 3d printers are expensive here >goto sleep >goto work >goto 3dpg >half the thread is a discussion on taxes, economy, and rioting niggers >mfw >mfw i have no face

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 19:49:49 2020 No.1933915 >>1933913 I was so mad at the cuckery until I got to the last sentence.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 19:59:50 2020 No.1933919 Can't the EU and South America fags just make their own printers from scrap? They haven't added the VAT on information or open source code yet, have they?

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 20:01:28 2020 No.1933921 >>1933915 The city probably tried to shut down their business because of that sign

Anonymous Tue Oct 20 20:09:39 2020 No.1933924

>>1933919
>Can't the EU and South America fags just make their own printers from scrap?
That's not completely out of the board, and is more likely by the day
>They haven't added the VAT on information or open source code yet, have they?
Yet. The currently governing crime sindicate sent a law proposal a few years ago that under the excuse of "fighting paedophilia" wanted to force everyone to use their government ID's for every single packet and having the government be able to inspect any payload.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 20:17:04 2020 No.1933932 >>1933924 welp. looks like we are going to have to build a new, parallel version of the internet soon I need to build my rep scrap soon

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 20:26:52 2020 No.1933939 >>1933932 Get an Ender while they're still cheap on mercadolibre from the father's day and mother's day gift second-hand resales

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 20:35:04 2020 No.1933943 >>1933939 I already have a decent printer I want to go through the learning curve of building one from scrap by myself

Anonymous Tue Oct 20 20:47:19 2020 No.1933946
File: 49 KB, 1052x592, untitled.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1933886
Worked less worse. Still got some stringing in one of the corners, of which I made short work with the spatula, but it mostly disappeared from the rest. May try enabling outer wall wipe next time.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 20 20:56:54 2020 No.1933958 File: 52 KB, 1052x592, untitled.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1933946 >inb4 >what is that anon? A less tarded version of >>1933233 that doesn't fall on its arse

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 21 00:41:40 2020 No.1934089 >>1933946 It may be more time efficient to get some decent deburring and post processing tools.

Anonymous Wed Oct 21 02:21:31 2020 No.1934124

>>1933921
Because you shouldn't be able to kill people for property theft. The only reason that seems viable is because the police and court system will most likely do fuck all to get your shit back. Even if they do it will be a long an arduous process. Blame the dogshit system. It's also weird to me that this mentality only applies to certain types of theft. No one ever has this opinion about hackers that drain someone's bank account.

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 21 03:53:12 2020 No.1934164 >>1933958 It looks like ass, anon

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 21 03:56:34 2020 No.1934166 >>1933231 Center drooping, put a piece of paper in the middle under the magnetic bed.

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 21 06:04:18 2020 No.1934189 >>1933693 Infills over 50% are generally inadvisable. There are diminishing returns to increasing it beyond a point, compounded by increased warping and uneven thermal contraction.

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 21 07:54:04 2020 No.1934243 >>1930292 MY UNDEREXTRUSION AK STOCK IS IN THE OP, FFS, FUCK, LMAO

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 21 08:00:04 2020 No.1934248 File: 1.68 MB, 4000x3000, IMG_20201021_135807.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1934243 Since it's mediocre results thread, here it's without post processing of any kind. Been busy with not dying to the coof.

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 21 09:23:41 2020 No.1934283 >>1934124 Play stupid games Win stupid prizes

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 21 09:24:43 2020 No.1934285 >>1934248 Oof. She's rough.

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 21 09:33:30 2020 No.1934293 >>1934283 Why aren't you advocating for the death penalty for white collar criminals who commit tens of thousands worth of wage theft and fraud then, and instead only for the negroes stealing a 50$ pair of nikes?

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 21 09:33:56 2020 No.1934294 >>1934243 I usually put all the failed prints and goof-up OC in the middle row.

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 21 09:35:01 2020 No.1934295 >>1934124 >Because you shouldn't be able to kill people for property theft. I disagree

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 21 09:35:17 2020 No.1934296 >>1934293 Violence is used to end a threat. Most white collar criminals put their hands up, get arrested and keep their mouths shut. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfi3Ndh3n-g

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 21 09:43:57 2020 No.1934300 New Thread >>1934299

Anonymous Wed Oct 21 11:05:47 2020 No.1934323

>>1934293
>the negroes stealing a 50$ pair of nikes
Those niggers, which can be from any race, and distinct from hardworking black people, often kill and maim in their pursuit of the fity dolla pair of shoes. White-collared criminals who send them as goons should be executed too. And cucks who defend some forms of crime because other forms of crime aren't punished enough are still defending crime, are apologists of crime, are criminals, and deserve to be shot alongside both.

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 21 19:01:16 2020 No.1934600 what board am i supposed to use to upgrade an ender 3? i bought an official board upgrade for one machine but i heard here later about one that's cheaper and better

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 21 19:12:40 2020 No.1934603 >>1934600 Try again in the new thread >>1934299

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 23 08:24:57 2020 No.1935704 >>1930972 there's one on thingiverse that supports both sides and uses bearings

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 23 08:25:59 2020 No.1935705 >>1930972 *cults actually, just checked

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