/EMT/Eternal Machinist Thread

[Anonymous No.1922654]

New thread, because the old one is practically at page 12.

Thread hymn.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGNiXGX2nLU

Last thread: >>1908778

>Haas automation videos.
https://www.youtube.com/user/haasautomation/playlists
>Titans of CNC
https://www.youtube.com/user/titanamericanbuilt/playlists
>Edge precision
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-kgF0sJFno

[Anonymous No.1923290]

>>1923182
>>1923187
the chip was always on the leading edge. I was going straight in because I don't know how to use the compound for id threads. I was using the lowest rpm possible because I'm not confident in hitting the half nut fast enough to not crash into the shoulder just looking at the dro.

[Anonymous No.1923414]

>>1923290
compound for id threading is just like using compound for od threading except you make sure it's pushing/pulling the right direction, same angle difference from spindle centerline for od threading 29.5 deg

[Anonymous No.1923439]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Taual982UI

[Anonymous No.1923476]

>>1923439
>00:40
lewd

[Anonymous No.1923479]

>>1923476
I bet my SL-25 could do that.

[Anonymous No.1923536]

>>1923414
so like this? which way to you dial the backlash on the cross slide?

[Anonymous No.1923550]

>>1923536
yes like that, but on my lathe the numbers on the compound lock are still 29.5 for that orientation too, there is probably another hash-mark on your compound swivel for use like that.

or you can spin it so the handle is the other way, then you would feed out on the compound instead of in but that usually creates a clearance issue depending on the lathe.

As you have it, you would spin the compound handle for feeding in, in that orientation.

[Anonymous No.1923593]

I want to build a rotary engine, what is the best machine tool for the job?

[Anonymous No.1923602]

>>1923593
one of these is probably a good start

https://www.haascnc.com/machines/vertical-mills/universal-machine/models/umc-750.html

[Anonymous No.1923615]

>>1923602
>155K USD

[Anonymous No.1923618]

>>1923615
yeah you need a real loan to buy new machine tools

alternatively something like this is '03 mazak is only $65k

https://www.resellcnc.com/products/used-cnc-verticals/01t3Z000004eSTTQA2/mazak_variaxis_630-5x

[Anonymous No.1923621]

>>1922654
>finish machine tool school just before the coof
>been working in shop for a year+ before that
>save up cash
>save even more because loans on hold
>suprise local machine tool auction
>snag a used bridgeport clone ($3k)
>power feed and DRO.
>Item #420
>feels good man
The year that just keeps on giving. Going to get 3 phase power for it and getting basic tools right now. This shit ain't cheap. It doesn't get cheaper does it? Still happy with it, its what I've been working toward since i got out of HS.

[Anonymous No.1923622]

>>1923621
>It doesn't get cheaper does it?

eventually you start using the bank's money instead of your own, so it depends on how you look at it

[Anonymous No.1923634]

>>1923618
>>1923622
I'm not selling my soul to some bankers. There has got to be a way to DIY a mill on the cheap.

[Anonymous No.1923638]

>>1923634
>DIY a mill on the cheap

[Anonymous No.1923646]

>>1923622
Man, i feel bad enough with my school loan and its a fraction of what some people pay for one year of 4 year colleges. fuck.
>>1923634
fuck them. Im to poor to pay back huge loans.

[Anonymous No.1923655]

>>1923646
a machine shop job is actually pretty damn expensive, ranging from $1,000 to $10,000 typically for a small number of parts.

>>1923634
I wonder if the LLC business is the holder of the loan instead of you personally...

[Anonymous No.1923659]

>>1923638
Bro, it's just a fancy etch-a-sketch attached to a drill press.

[Anonymous No.1923735]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xfQN0T0QI2s

[Anonymous No.1923881]

>>1923621
One thing you can look for if you really want to get fancy with that machine is to upgrade it with a prototrak. 2 axis cnc upgrade for bridgeport style mills.

[Anonymous No.1923926]

hi faggots anyone here knows anything about servicing LVD laser cutters?
I got one with Fanuc controls
Drives won't turn on because PLC gives 'stop motor' state
I think PLC is password locked
Can I have a look at it without knowing password or maybe password is open secret?

[Anonymous No.1923928]

I got g2 and g3 working, thank you anon
Doesnt jolt like before and programs are far shorter in kb
Machine still says its g51*1 on start and not g64 but nothing missed and copper electrodes which have almost 0 tolerance are basically perfect

[Anonymous No.1924101]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RvKX9lvklXw

[Anonymous No.1924292]

Good news, bad news.

live tool drive alignment is good, but whining noise is the bearings in a simple hall effect sensor attached to the back of the drive shaft.

I have decided it is not even a big deal, it doesn't appear to heat up or vibrate, the enclosure is probably just making it sound louder than it is.

Still need to take the chuck off and pull the drawtube to adjust hydraulic actuator clamp rings.

[Anonymous No.1924314]

>>1923926
call fanuc and ask, Fanuc has their own service and repair and part replacement stuff.

also you might try google with "practicalmachinist" included in the search term

[Anonymous No.1924729]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfUg1WNqNPs

[Anonymous No.1924819]

>>1924729
Probe video or how you shouldn't have the mic right to your lips

[Anonymous No.1924846]

Just got myself this guy. Looking to get into turning brass a bit.

[Anonymous No.1924872]

>>1924846
kind of neat.

gonna make a ring or something?

[Anonymous No.1924903]

I took on some side work that has me stumped. I have to bend some 2.5in iron pipe or steel DOM tube or seam welded tube to a 6ft radius that's going to lay flat within .0625 or so. I have access to a machine shop, but no tube bending equipment. I've made some test cuts into a 12 in x 2in tube, nearly sawing all the way through, backing out, moving over an inch and starting over sawing to the exact same depth and at the same angle locating the next cut off of the previous one. I'll then take it to a table vice and beat on it with a 4lb hammer to bend the tube, checking my progress against a cardboard template. This has given me okay results in the smaller versions but with a radius that large I won't be able to tell until I have a few feet done. Next thing I think of is using a blowtorch to get the pipe cherry red and then working it into the radius. The next idea is using a combination of the first process plus heat. next idea is just cutting a tube up into lots of 3 inch sections, grinding an angel into them, laying them out against a template, tacking them, making final adjustments and just weldind them that way. Another idea would be doing the previously mentioned method with 12in sections bent using the first method. The final hail marry idea I had was making some sort of leverage based simple machine to bend every 2-3 inches a few degrees using a long as fuck breaker bar, but this much work although in my wheelhous skilleise probably wouldn't be worth the effort for the pay. Any ideas appreciated, this is day one of prototyping this part so I still haven't tried much

[Anonymous No.1924906]

>>1924903
Here's a randomly cut scrap tube against a template, I didn't measure this one or check the angle at all so it's all crooked and shitty looking I just wanted to see if I could even get a bend. As you can see it's actually too tight for the template

[Anonymous No.1924911]

>>1924903
>>1924906
The steel tubing in this photo is a general idea for how the final part should look. Notice how it's absolutely critical that the tubing lay flat otherwise it won't be able to be mounted to the wood properly.

[Anonymous No.1924916]

>>1924872
No just little fancy brass screws etc for wood projects

[Anonymous No.1924923]

Whats a good way to get a 2x3' plate of .500" steel reasonably flat?
Im having the local metal supplier cut it for me, its a fucking dump and I have no clue how bowed it will be.
Im using this as a work table for a CNC router

Im going to use wooden spoil board on top that I can just surface flat relative to the spindle, but would like to try and get the steel plate flat as possible in the first place

[Anonymous No.1924926]

>>1924923
https://precisiongrinding.com/steel-plate-services/stress-relieving-and-annealing-steel/

[Anonymous No.1924951]

>>1924903
why won't the typical benders not work?

they are just a couple of rollers that you force the tubing through
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QF6W2ABmqqQ

[Anonymous No.1924953]

>>1924923
send it out for grind, the metal supplier can probably handle that for you

alro will do that stuff for you

[Anonymous No.1924957]

>>1924906
I think they make springs that fit down inside the tubing to help keep it round if you do decide to heat it

[Anonymous No.1924970]

>>1923634
>DIY a mill on the cheap.
lol

you can make a non rotating rotary engine for that

get a loan for a 133k CNC ...make one engine for yourself and make 30 more and sell them for 10K a piece and you made a return on your investment dont be a cuck

[Anonymous No.1924979]

>>1924970
the used options are way better, 90% of the fancy stuff for half the cost

[Anonymous No.1924998]

I want to complete an AR lower receiver on a 3-axis CNC. The owner and myself have never done more than cutting shapes out of plywood and some very basic shallow reliefs. The machine is capable of cutting aluminium. I have tinkered with settings in fusion 360 and have a basic understanding of what I need to do. However, I have some questions:
1) how do I keep the bit from going up and breaking off on the buffer tube threads?
2) what is the best way to define and determin zero on, then secure and find a non-rectangular object?

Pic is the pocket that needs to be milled out. I'd do this on a drill press but we have 10 we want to do.

[Anonymous No.1925004]

>>1924998
upload the fusion project file somewhere and I'll take a look at it

[Anonymous No.1925006]

I wonder whatever happened to that guy in a 3rd world country with a tiny cnc router? Did it catch fire and burn his house down or something?

[Anonymous No.1925056]

>>1924998
Awesome, will do once I finish up a time-sensitive remodel I'm working on. Pretty much I just have an AR lower I'm importing into fusion, then going to rhe machining area and watching simulations of it milling out the empty space above the pocket and then into the pocket.

[Anonymous No.1925071]

>>1925056
Oops, this was meant for >>1925004

[Anonymous No.1925085]

>>1924998
If it were me, and I had access to the models and a machine with the necessary travel to, I would base zeros off center of the receiver the thin way, and on the left side of the buffer tube or even possibly the inside of the mag well. Set those as the XY origin in your Cam and pick them up using a simple edge finder.

[Anonymous No.1925159]

if anyone is interested, just some video of my little cnc mill cutting out a skull. I don't have a tapered ball endmill so it's just using a 1/8th endmill for roughing and finishing, but it turned out pretty smooth

>>1924998
there's actually a tool for zeroing out AR lowers. it screws into the buffer tube threads. i don't know a lot about it, but i was talking to a machinist friend of mine about it. there is also ready made g code for completing an 80% lower floating around on the internet somewhere.

[Anonymous No.1925278]

>>1924998
most 80%s already have the takedown pin pocket cut so you can edgefind that to find your y axis centerline. for x0 I used the pin going through the pivot pin hole on the fixture I built. you could also use the bolt catch slot of you have a way to probe it that will fit. for the buffer tube part just make sure your tool is long enough so that the tool holder doesn't crash into it.

[Anonymous No.1925333]

>>1925159
Better than my first one. Need a better endmill if I'm going to do more of this.

[Anonymous No.1925349]

>>1924951
I got a technique going, if you do it in small sections it's easy

[Anonymous No.1925455]

>>1925159
Interesting idea. I could easily design 3d print a jig to align with the back of the buffer threads with a needle or wire of known length that is grounded and extrudes over the pocket area and use the mill's z-axis zero-finder to index off that.

[Anonymous No.1925470]

>>1925455
where's the project file I want to play with it

[Anonymous No.1925511]

>>1925470
You can download an AR lower .igs here: https://www.cncguns.com/downloads.html or a .step here: https://www.3dcadbrowser.com/3d-model/ar-15-lower-receiver

Unfortunately, I don't have any other fusion project files (or what the file type you're expecting is, because I've only exported g-code from the machining portion of fusion). Let me know what you find out or think is a good way to go about this, please. Also curious if there's any benefit to using these objects vs a normal .stl, as they have some stl's I'd like to mill eventually as well.

The "stock" that it is going to be milled out of is the same shape as the receiver minus the pocket. Not sure if I should just set up the block as a big rectangle and waste time while it thinks it's milling down to the top face or what. The buffer area is just bugging me because I don't know how to avoid it or set up my stock to be a similar shape as the model.

[Anonymous No.1925514]

>>1925511
Oh and use a password from http://bugmenot.com/view/3dcadbrowser.com for that second link.

[Anonymous No.1925516]

>>1925511
you can get the proper M4/M16 models from "Gun_plans_2019.zip"

http://bt4g.unblockedsite.biz/magnet/d5388a004d3708bf7cf85a46445440237acdb074

[Anonymous No.1925517]

>>1925511
I would probably just mess with cam until i have it machining away the parts that aren't there (mostly) then save the stock of the simulation and set the simulation stock to use the saved file.

I have done that before and it works well enough.

[Anonymous No.1925559]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zb0H9F5mKjQ

[Anonymous No.1925598]

>>1925516
Different anon. Thx.

[Anonymous No.1925614]

ahhh lathe milling kicks ass

4140 no problem, live tool load meter barely broke a sweat

[Anonymous No.1925708]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPrbquWJkQs

[Anonymous No.1925830]

Did Fusion really remove tool orientation from personal use or am I misunderstanding? It's basically the sole reason I learned Fusion.

[Anonymous No.1925831]

>>1925830
Yes, along with tool changes, and rapid feeds

[Anonymous No.1925836]

>>1925831
Well this is depressing. I've lost about a year of CAD work (don't work on it every week, and only when I have time, has 20 or so parts) and it's not something I can finish up in a month. I don't need an advanced CAD package for 2.5D shit. I guess they want me to pay for a subscription before I know if I even have a viable hobby business product. I was legit budgeting for it and had an overhead costs spreadsheet to try and figure out if it was viable or not if I ever got to the point of scaling up to the sale of more than a few units.

[Anonymous No.1925852]

>>1925836
Yeah, they really fucked everyone over.

[Anonymous No.1925853]

>>1925852
I'm amazed they took away access to credit services considering you only had limited trial credits before having to but a sub to get more. It seems illogical.

[Anonymous No.1926063]

>>1925836
there is a sale where you can get 3 years of it for $800 right now

and I think there is another "trial" license to use the full version for another year

[Anonymous No.1926206]

>>1925831
so it's basically useless for cam unless you're doing the high feed meme?

[Anonymous No.1926212]

>>1926206
Yeah

[Anonymous No.1926219]

>>1923655
>>1923881
same anon. Im looking to get a smaller mill and upgrade that to cnc down the line. you think theres any money in buying and upgrading small mills to sell them finished? to local maker-spaces and the like. or local new enthusiasts who want a cnc """"on the cheap"""". all after i convert a personal one. could mabye crank out a few for people who dont want to do it themselves.

[Anonymous No.1926222]

>>1926206
rapid movements would be outputted as high feed movements, this will normally cap rapids at something like 800ipm instead of 1800ipm and screw with your bottom line if you have a proper industrial machine, for everyone else and everyone not trying to do large orders that wouldn't matter much.

the tool change thing is the big deal, massive pain in the ass. Ask me about it, I have a tormach. (no tool changer)

If you have a proper industrial machine with a true rapid feed mode (shit-tier machines probably just use high-feed for everything anyway because they don't have encoders) you should just give them the shekels for the software.

Also looks like the manufacturing extensions are 40% off. $900/year (on top of regular fusion price) down to $540/year for fancy 5-axis toolpaths. Not bad.

[Anonymous No.1926226]

>>1926219
No because it would just end up a glorified Tormach. You could buy old industrial stuff and retrofit it though, real horsepower to do real work.

[Anonymous No.1926261]

>>1926222
I don't even understand how you make a program without tool changes. just something like making a threaded hole requires at least 3 tools not counting probing/edgefinding. also don't even talk to me about not having a tool changer, I only have a bridgeport at work and it doesn't even have a power draw bar.

[Anonymous No.1926270]

>>1926261
you either do the toolchange manually for the program or write it in yourself

so it probably will only post one operation at a time or something idk

[Anonymous No.1926273]

>>1926261
I have no clue how fusion 360 works but couldn't you just splice different programs together to make a complete program, either with notepad or the controller itself. Used to do this all the time, and its pretty easy on a fanuc controller.

[Anonymous No.1926275]

>>1926273
probably

[Anonymous No.1926316]

how do I get rid of the runout on my shitty mill? I drill a 3/32 hole but then when I put a 3/32 dowel pin in it's loose like a hooker pussy

[Anonymous No.1926329]

how crazy of an idea is using a fly cutter on a live tool lathe?

I want to mill a triangular shape out of some 2.5" or so aluminum bar stock, good surface finish is ideal.

[Anonymous No.1926330]

>>1922654
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqSosWb3FCE

[Anonymous No.1926352]

>>1926316
drills don't make round holes to begin with, you need a reamer or a boring head + boring bar

[Anonymous No.1926374]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aFS7YlSRQao

[Anonymous No.1926375]

>>1926330
wrong link?

[Anonymous No.1926415]

bought one of the 3/4 diameter single flute shear hogs, 6 cubic inches of aluminum removed per minute per horsepower allegedly

[Anonymous No.1926423]

>>1926273
yeah, you can output 3 or 4 different programs and splice them together easily just putting in a pause and tool change Gcode. Its pretty easy to decode and write yourself. But its a pain in the dick when you are used to it being done for you

[Anonymous No.1926428]

>>1926222
For anyone running flimsy cnc routers that have to have slow feeds, its going to significantly impact their cycle times. Sure its just hobby guys, but burning peoples time just to burn peoples time is pretty fucking shitty. The people abusing the license in the firstplace will be able to just into the Gcode and manipulate the feeds manually anyways. Its just going to hurt the hobby guy.

[Anonymous No.1926431]

>>1926428
not likely, high feedrate is likely the same as the rapid feedrate on a shitty machine

[Anonymous No.1926458]

>>1926431
When you are stuck at 30IPM doing 2mm DOC due to inherent stiffness issues, having all of your jogging capped at 30IPM is a huge detriment when the machine is fully capable of jogging more than 10x that speed easily.

[Anonymous No.1926500]

>>1926352
I tried with an endmill and that ends up oversize too.

[Anonymous No.1926528]

>>1926500
If you're plunging, it's still going to vibrate. A CNC might make an accurate hole if the hole dia is larger than the endmill.

[Anonymous No.1926642]

>>1926458
i bet the "no-engagement feedrate" still works, meaning you can jog at whatever your highest feedrate is, which will normally be what the "rapid" feedrate is on a low end machine

[Anonymous No.1926799]

>>1926226
Bridgeport and clones it is then.

[Anonymous No.1926831]

>>1926329
I think you'd be better off with a indexable cutter of some kind. I don't think fly cutters are typically a good choice for anything but flat surfaces and it might get hung or shatter on the side of the triangle

[Anonymous No.1926898]

>>1926831
yeah I already bought a shear-hog 3/4 single flute

should be good enough to get high MRR and keep the code size down for lathe milling.

I could have bought a shell mill for the bad-ass radial shell mill live tool I have, but it was like $450. I guess that is an upgrade path I could pursue in the future.

Working on changing the decorative parts I make to something I can machine on the lathe, what does everyone think of a triangular "desk name plate" out of aluminum?

[Anonymous No.1926899]

>>1926898
I think my shear hog will be here in the morning, crazy shipping from abtools.

Moving aluminum work to the lathe means it will actually run reliably and quickly compared to a Tormach.

[Anonymous No.1926980]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nuGK3ATbRgM

[Anonymous No.1927292]

http://www.royalproducts.com/product.cfm?catID=8&id=95

fuck yea

[Anonymous No.1927295]

>>1927292
sheeeeittt

[Anonymous No.1927329]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvJ-Hn8l7bc

Abom79 is doing shop tours of CNC shops now? Sweet.

[Anonymous No.1927407]

how do I get into prototyping?

[Anonymous No.1927409]

>>1927407
Not cheaply?

[Anonymous No.1927427]

is this guy full of shit or legit

[Anonymous No.1927428]

>>1927409
I mean as a job

[Anonymous No.1927437]

>>1927427
as far as personalities go he's pretty legit, kennametal is a great fucking tool company and he actually has a great business.

also, managed to find an old picture of when I first got a mini lathe back in the day

[Anonymous No.1927446]

>>1927427
The guy is legit while being full of shit, most of his overly edited videos are full of fluff and him shilling his "academy" and his sponsors. You could learn more by literally watching anyone else's machining videos.

[Anonymous No.1927447]

>>1927446
except feeds and speeds in super-alloys with kennametal tools

[Anonymous No.1927608]

>>1927447
I'd say that you shouldn't stay with just one brand and use whatever works best. He does post s&f in alloys that are difficult to machine, but you have to look at the HP of the machine he is using and the doc he does. Which is way beyond what one would typically use for extended tool life.

[Anonymous No.1927622]

>>1927437
>>1927446
>>1927447
>>1927608
I mean the whole "i came from nothing, went to jail, then became a millionaire my first year out and now want to serve jesus christ by teaching other people how to be good and program CNC like a GOD"

[Anonymous No.1927686]

>>1927622
Wasn't he a boxer, went to prison for assault for like 1.5 years, and then got out and started out machining?
Not really rags to riches, but his raw emotion when talking about the 2008 crash and how that nearly sunk him was pretty great. Made me think of him more of a person than a salesman.

[Anonymous No.1927691]

>>1927622
>now want to serve jesus christ by teaching other people how to be good and program CNC like a GOD
I won't question his faith but I'm sure he's making some good money running his youtube channel, he isn't doing charity work.

[Anonymous No.1927792]

>>1927428
you become an engineer, or a high level tool and die/mold maker who knows how to design dies/molds.

[Anonymous No.1927828]

>>1927792
is the engineer who designs the part usually the one who makes the prototype too? what is tool and die making even? I know a bunch of people who did it but I never asked what the job actually is.

[Anonymous No.1927968]

hi fags, just installed fanuc PMC ladder editor
up to this point I did PLC on heidenhain only
preferably on ones with CRT monitors
I need some fast tutorial to understand whats what

[Anonymous No.1928054]

we gonna make it just...purrfect. Boom.
gonna take this kennametal harvi 3k with point. oh two. five. 7. offset and make it. beauuuutiful.
just gonna. kiss. it and UNH. Look at that. Purrrrrfect. UNH. Look this. Final three dee water pass. Boom. boom. boom. UNH.

[Anonymous No.1928061]

>>1928054
getting excited about doing good work is part of the trade anon...

[Anonymous No.1928108]

>>1927295
>>1927292
by the way the reason you would use something like this is because on a subspindle lathe it might not have the ability to adjust to length differences like a hydraulic tailstock would.

so they sell a spring-loaded live center with a straight shank you just clamp in the sub-chuck.

I think my particular lathe has a "workpiece push-off check" or some kind of force sensing but it sounds moderately annoying to program.

[Anonymous No.1928142]

>trying to make brass tipped screws for a fixture
>don't have a collet chuck so have to spend another half an hour making fixture just to hold the screws
what kind of job do I have to get to get back the shop environment I had at school? there I had all the tools I could want and was only limited by time and my own skills. now that I have a job I spend an hour trying to nigger rig a setup just because we don't have something simple like an angle plate or gauge blocks.

[Anonymous No.1928148]

>>1928142
Start your own shop

[Anonymous No.1928155]

>>1927828
Tool and die is what it says, tools like fixtures and jigs for assembly or welding. Dies for punch press and molds for injection. I'm dipping my toes in it right now. Mostly clamps and gauges right now but i have to make solutions up on the fly all the time. Thats my favorite part about it, and using a brideport in general.

[Anonymous No.1928156]

>>1928142
i fucking hate that shit too.
managers bug you about what youre doing when theyre coming into the job cold. Not to mention the nontechnical supervisors. im holding onto this job til i move out of cali.
hopfully its better outside of niggerland.

[Anonymous No.1928160]

>>1928142
You should buy one of those ER collet chucks with a straight shank, then you can just hold the smaller collet chuck in a regular chuck.

[Anonymous No.1928161]

>>1928142
do they give you a tool allowance?

the tool and die place local did that.

[Anonymous No.1928174]

>>1928155
how do you get into that? do you start as something else and try to switch to it?

>>1928161
all of the material I have for fixtures is crap left by the previous machinist or ends of stock left over from previous jobs. I haven't made the tips yet either since my parting insert pulled out of the tool and disappeared into the chip tray and now I have to request a replacement. I submitted a bunch of forms for other stuff last week and my boss only just found them in his inbox on friday.

[Anonymous No.1928176]

>>1928174
>all of the material I have for fixtures is crap left by the previous machinist or ends of stock left over from previous jobs.

sounds like new-guy thing

[Anonymous No.1928177]

>>1928176
I've been working at this job for almost a year now when do I stop being new guy?

[Anonymous No.1928178]

>>1928177
i don't know i can't even imagine a shop that cheap desu

is all they do large run production so they only buy specific things in large quantities?

[Anonymous No.1928189]

>>1928178
no it's actually the opposite. it's a super small shop that only ever orders the bare minimum for every job.

[Anonymous No.1928192]

>>1928174
>how do you get into that? do you start as something else and try to switch to it?
you start as tool and die, but yeah you can switch i guess, i do all the mentioned things here, >>1928155, except i do them on cnc, but also we do EDM wire and sink, grinding and laser welding

[Anonymous No.1928207]

>>1922654
is this the right general to ask for hobbiest cnc-machines? since i started 3d printing not even 2 months ago I've been really enjoying doing small projects at home, now that the 2. lockdown is probably around the corner i'm thinking about getting a sainsmart 3018 to mill some wood or aluminium sheets. does anyone have experience with small chinese machines or is this a general for professionals only?
tl;dr
>looking for a cheap CNC that cuts aluminium up to the footprint of a piece of paper

[Anonymous No.1928212]

>>1928207
Aluminium is going to be difficult. It is possible to mill alu even on those cheapo shit machines, but CNC machining is nowhere near as easy to get into as 3D printing, coupling that with a tiny, slow, weak machine with poor tolerances and rigidity, it's probably going to give you some headache. If you don't mind many many hours of troubleshooting and not understanding why the fuck the endmills keep breaking, then it's probably okay for the money. If you want the headache first, then the MostlyPrintedCNC is actually a better machine to go for.
https://www.v1engineering.com/specifications/

[Anonymous No.1928334]

>>1928207
find the threads from first lockdown and read about dickhead italian anon aka 1 man foxconn. speaking of, where if your 4 axis machining one man foxxcon you said there would be 4 axis (technically 3 but what ever)

[Anonymous No.1928366]

>>1928192
are there entry level positions for it? all the places I saw posting job openings wanted people already with 3+ years experience.

[Anonymous No.1928403]

>>1928174
>how do you get into that? do you start as something else and try to switch to it?

I went to a community college that was a well known machining program. At the time you could go into one of two programs, one was tool & die, the other was injection molding. I went into Tool & die. I got a job starting in a place that ran stamping and forming dies and part job shop. I worked there for a few years then went to an injection molding place.

[Anonymous No.1928412]

>>1928207
I also came here as I'm about to make my first CNC machine, an idea I've been considering for over a decade.
>>1928212
>MostlyPrintedCNC
Interesting. Would there be any accuracy loss on a machine like that that doesn't use a rotating sort of thread to move things around? I've seen the servo-on-a-grooved-belt type thing on 3d printers so I guess it must be accurate, but intuitively you'd think a threaded rod would give you finer control.

I'm interested in saving money but not too much, would like a work area of maybe 2' square (I want to use it to make computer cases, among other things), was thinking about using a router as the spindle for my first machine and will get a real spindle on a later machine (or are there cheapish spindles that would be competitive?). I'm at a very early stage of research though (a few days, I will probably research for a few months).

[Anonymous No.1928418]

>>1928412
>accuracy loss
Ballscrews are the best, belts do expand under load so they're far from ideal, but for a small CNC I think belts are competitive because you want high SFM, and the machine isn't rigid enough anyway to make full use of the rigidity of the drive. The screws on cheap machine kits are not ballscrews but trapezoid/ACME screws, which have very poor efficiency and low maximum speed as a result, which will gimp the machine on softer materials. If you were to design a machine from scratch, definitely use ballscrews and linear guides though, they've gotten so cheap lately that it's not worth using anything else.
Instead of a router, probably better to just buy a cheap DC spindle. They're designed to be used on a CNC, unlike routers. Should be within ~$80 including power supply for a couple hundred watt spindle with simple no-feedback speed control.

[Anonymous No.1928441]

>>1928418
Cheers, ok, I see ballscrews at decent prices on Aliexpress.
My other major question apart from hardware is naturally what software there is and what it's like to use, I'm quite a fan of Linux and open source so that would naturally draw my attention... is linuxcnc.com any good?

[Anonymous No.1928448]

>>1928441
I haven't used linuxcnc but supposedly it's okay. You also need CAD/CAM, most people use Fusion but it's getting gimped. For driving the thing, on a small CNC an arduino with grbl shield is enough, maybe some of the 32bit 3D printer boards if you want more processing speed. You don't especially need a ton of amps for a small CNC, the standard DRV8825 or any similar drivers with ~2A output are enough.
Note that you will need a bit of machining to fit the ballscrews in a custom CNC, some of the chink sellers on Ali offer it at fairly good prices. At bare minimum, you need to secure one end in a bearing, on 12mm ballscrew you can use a 10mm ID bearing with an M10 locknut and then 8mm coupling to the stepper. The pre-machined ballscrews have some non-standard fine thread, probably M10x1 or something like that.

[Anonymous No.1928457]

>>1928448
Cool. Is wood a decent building material for a 1st DIY 3 axis machine or should one really be considering metal and plastic? I know wood can warp a bit over the years...

[Anonymous No.1928465]

>>1928457
Wood is a terrible building material. Use 8020/3030/rexroth/whateveritscalled profiles if you have nothing else. Conversely if you are building from wood, you don't have to worry about ballscrews because locomotion will be the least of your problems.

[Anonymous No.1928467]

Is there such thing as a pump oiler that doesn't leak like a fucking sieve?

[Anonymous No.1928590]

>sell the electric motor I had since it sat around for 5 years in a milk crate unused
>see a craftsman half horse with a switch built in for $5
>eh I just sold one I don't need it
>end finding a lathe and might get it
>has no motor

[Anonymous No.1928591]

Sorry to bother not sure if this completely fits here, but I was looking to build a home CNC, pic related, maybe 4ft by 3ft just a few inch in the Z.

I know its a far way from an industrial machine, but its to use to learn and for some arts and crafts (my first project will probably be some wall art of particular Star Wars logo for fun)

I have some 3D printer and laser experience but those I tweaked, repaired, improved, but were not built from scratch. MPCNC seemed a good choice since its a cheap place to start and I can upgrade it later since the electronics and spindle could be reused on another frame later.


tl;dr Home CNC for fun, anything I should know or will wish I knew before starting?

[Anonymous No.1928646]

>>1928207
budget at least 5k to start cnc milling aluminum
2500-3500 for decent entry bench mill, 1000-1500 for cnc conversion, software, collets, end mills, etc

[Anonymous No.1928879]

>>1928467
the industrial one on my jap lathe doesn't leak

[Anonymous No.1928900]

>>1928591
MPCNC is okay. It's definitely good enough for wood and plastic.

[Anonymous No.1928908]

Damn, Fusion 360's slicer is way better than Cura.
better print quality with the same time

[Anonymous No.1928919]

>>1928418
>trapezoid/ACME screws
>definitely use ballscrews
>>1928465
>Wood is a terrible building material
So, you got me a bit excited but I've considered and decided throwing $1000 and many days of work at parts for a device I have absolutely no experience with would be fun, but self destructive, so I'm going to make one as cheaply as possible for a training run. Hoping to make a 2' square work area for <$200... the point is that I definitely intend to make a good one one day out of aluminium, ballscrews etc, so I'm starting by making something so rough that I won't be afraid, to get experience both in CNC machine construction and use.

Threaded rods (not trapezoid/ACME screws) (m6 threaded rod is less than $5 a metre), and wood construction except for the linear rails. I may go with a CNC spindle though as they're cheap enough.... I don't see any way to skimp on the spindle, you could use a little DC motor but the bearings would basically disintegrate.

I have to find the best type of wood for this. The thing I'm wondering (hoping) is whether a really cheap machine is capable of much of what a better machine is capable of but just at a much lower speed? I still want to be able to work with computer cases (thin metal)

[Anonymous No.1928929]

>>1928919
At least use belts, they're not any more expensive than threaded rods and they're a million times better. Your steppers are going to seize up on a shitty threaded rod, especially the Z axis. But the Z axis can't use belts, for that one you need to get either an ACME/trapezoid or a ballscrew. And you must use a ballscrew if your spindle or Z assembly gets heavy, because otherwise the 2A stepper drivers won't be able to handle it.
>The thing I'm wondering (hoping) is whether a really cheap machine is capable of much of what a better machine is capable of but just at a much lower speed?
If you really know what you're doing and have a lot of tooling, then maybe. Otherwise, no. Things like repeatability and rigidity will be low on a shit machine and will fuck with it, especially in metals. On the other hand, if you just want to cut through thin sheet metal then it might sort of work, but don't expect thick or precision parts to come out good.

[Anonymous No.1929002]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yygpPLSP-NI

[Anonymous No.1929011]

How do you turn down and thread the end of a blank morse taper? Run it between centers?

[Anonymous No.1929014]

>>1929011
yeah that would probably work

or just with a center in one end if there is something to hold onto at one end

[Anonymous No.1929019]

anyone knows the formula for calculating stepover distance for ballmills if I want to get a certain surface finish?
So for example If I have a D10mm ballmill and I want to get Rz0.4 what should be my stepover to get that finish?

[Anonymous No.1929026]

>>1929019
it should be a corner radius endmill if possible because 0 sfm at the tip of the ball is garbage if you use the tip

with a corner rad endmill a 0.0007" stepover should give a passable surface finish and 0.0003" should give a good surface finish.

[Anonymous No.1929035]

>>1929026
Yeah you are right. But I am interested in the formula. I used it like a year ago. An old machinist showed it to me and we used it to calculate stepover for an angled surface. But even he forgot the formula...

[Anonymous No.1929037]

>it is small, surely a tool post will not be that expensive
>look up 109 tool post
>fucking $50 for a used original shitty one on ebay
oh boy I can already feel the ass reaming and I haven't even bought it yet

[Anonymous No.1929117]

>>1929037
bitching about a $50 tool only makes sense if you don't make money with it

so put an ad on craigslist saying you can make shims and spacers for action figures or something

[Anonymous No.1929131]

OK i am probably going to be laughed at but i am trying to get into machining but i do not want to pay for school or go into an apprenticeship since I mostly want to learn it for hobby purposes..

I snagged some deals this month on a cheap chinese mini mill and mini lathe and i want to get going learning some basics with them. Question is where do I purchase or find cheap aluminum stock? I just need small pieces a couple of inches in diameter or length. literal scrap but amazon and ebay jews want to charge a fortune. Ive tought about building a small forge to melt aluminum into desired shape.

Also Ive seen videos about converting the mini mill to CNC and its something I want to try doing since I have 4 nema 23 steppers laying around. Is there a series you guys recommend to watch?

[Anonymous No.1929137]

>>1929117
A 6 inch lathe with no motor and tooling isn't going to be making much of anything, let alone money for a while. I thought since everyone gets rid of them for quick changes posts they would be cheap, but the lantern style tool holders are nearly as much as the chinkshit quick change ones. At least after looking around I found I can just buy a nut for the T slot so I can get one of the chink ones.
Worst case I just make money off it by selling parts off it.

[Anonymous No.1929140]

>>1928900
Cool thank you. I was worried I would be making it too large, but I've seen some that big do okay. And I'm only after softer wood for the most part anyway for some wall art.

[Anonymous No.1929206]

What are the advantages and disadvantages to using a drill chuck that is threaded onto it's shaft vs one that fits on a taper when using in the tail stock?

[Anonymous No.1929212]

>>1929206
runout on the thread-on is probably even worse

[Anonymous No.1929216]

>>1929212
Yeah especially because I'd have to make the threads. I got a free new jacobs 3/8 chuck with some shit and was tempted to use it for something, but looks like it's just cheaper to buy the morse taper to b10 and a chink shit chuck and have a wider griping capacity chuck.

[Anonymous No.1929220]

>>1929037

hey man with a lathe you can make anything that will fit within the swing....

just get a hand crank and a hss blank and free hand it, you will only have to do this till you can
make the missing parts

[Anonymous No.1929239]

>>1929131
Cnc4Xr7

[Anonymous No.1929298]

I just got a cnc router, 1/4 spindle.
I need to create a 2.5" deep oval mortise hole in wood.

If I buy a 3" endmill with 1" LOC, once my pass gets deeper than 1" wont the shaft rub against the wall?
Will I need a DOC for the whole depth or is the rubbing ok?

[Anonymous No.1929300]

>>1929131
>Question is where do I purchase or find cheap aluminum stock? I just need small pieces a couple of inches in diameter or length. literal scrap but amazon and ebay jews want to charge a fortune
Stock isnt cheap, nobody ever pretended this is a cheap or easily accessible hobby. Its prohibitively expensive

[Anonymous No.1929316]

>using machine tools instead of filing parts to net shape from raw stock

[Anonymous No.1929327]

>>1929298
I just had this thought, I have a 6mm boring bar I bought for my mini lathe
Im going to cut the boring bar down to size and just chuck that up and see what happens.

Ill just rough drill the holes then come to final size with the boring bar. If it works, that would be nice because the extra long endmills get pretty expensive

[Anonymous No.1929334]

>>1929316
>filing
>not sculpting it up with welds

[Anonymous No.1929347]

>>1929300
Stock is actually quite reasonable from metal suppliers but online sellers know their customers are either in the middle of nowhere or poorly informed.
First step, visit a local machine shop and ask to buy some suitable scrap so you don't sound like a mooch. Be nice and do it on a Friday when work usually slacks off. Machinists are worth knowing and if your're doing something interesting they may give it to you for free.

If you are genuinely good with computers you may barter for stuff. I don't really have a formal relationship with my machinist and metal supplier bros but they can call me ANY time and I fix their systems and always refuse cash but come home with metal instead.
Second but do this too:
Find local metal suppliers and visit in person. Most have a pile of cutoffs from cutting metal to size for customers. You can learn prices (I bought steel for a tech school and learned to get three quotes for large jobs because prices vary wildly) and they may hook you up for little or nothing.

Many use old software with keys they no longer have or other issues but they need their old OS to run older CAD/CAM suites they're used to (familiarity saves time and time is money). For example my metalsbro runs a obsolete version of Quickbooks the installer stole the media and keys for. I migrated his hard disk to SSD and have helped him with various problems so-called pros couldn't handle. When he upgrades PCs I'll convert one of his installs using DisktVHD and he can run his old OS forever in snapshottable VMs.

[Anonymous No.1929371]

>>1929026
>.0003 stepover
so this takes like 4 hours for a part the size of a marble?

[Anonymous No.1929384]

I'm a big gay idiot retard that doesn't know anything about anything. Can someone redpill me on lathe/mill combo machines?

[Anonymous No.1929407]

>>1929384
Benchtop machines are all about compromises
If you know a machines limits, no matter how small or crappy, you can make ok stuff within its capabilities.

You can get away with a lot on a small lathe, small mills are WAY more limited and way less useful.
So in the case of a Smithy, you have a lathe that will do ok work, burdened by a half baked drill press slapped on it which will be complete garbage.
Just because they are the same size and built into the same machine, doesnt mean they will both give you the same level of functionality. The mill part is trash.

Buy separate, buy as big as you can. Even if you end up with small chink stuff, you may actually find a small lathe is all you needed, and then only buy a new Mill, or the other way around.
You dont get stuck having all of your capabilities locked into one annoying to use machine

[Anonymous No.1929438]

>>1929384
>lathe/mill combo machines?
like a mill turn?

[Anonymous No.1929490]

>>1929407
Thank you very much.

[Anonymous No.1929519]

>>1929490
If its used and dirt cheap, itll still be useful enough as a beginner machine.
Just dont go out of your way or overpay for one, its truly at the bottom of the list

[Anonymous No.1929530]

>>1929298
Since it's wood it really doesn't matter that much, but some endmills are made with a bit of clearance. You can also give your endmill clearance by sanding it down in the middle of the shaft.

[Anonymous No.1929537]

>>1929371
no it's usually much faster than that

[Anonymous No.1929541]

>>1929384
Sounds like someone doesn't belong here.

[Anonymous No.1929554]

>>1929541
shut up nigger

[Anonymous No.1929590]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tR_pSGD6dIY

[Anonymous No.1929591]

>>1929371
oh did I say 0.0003" I meant 0.003" yeah my mistake

[Anonymous No.1929636]

>>1929590
>restoration
Those gooks must have higher standards if some surface rust qualifies as a restoration.

[Anonymous No.1929640]

>>1929636
They need content for their channel, and the almighty algorithm is being very generous to the "restoration" channels as of this last year.

[Anonymous No.1929644]

>>1929640
Nothing better than the blood boiling shit they do to whore for views.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jh18aIWlFGg
Obviously something has to be done to slow the rust, electrolysis wouldn't work because it likes to take off paint. Shit they used looks like it leaves the black layer like electrolysis, perhaps evaporust would work better, but I haven't used the stuff.
>wow look we took a 90 year old relic and took all the character away by wire brushing it and slapping bondo on it!
Don't forget the autistic retards who fill in the casting marks on tools with body filler.

[Anonymous No.1929646]

>>1929640
Nothing better than the blood boiling shit they do to whore for views.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jh18aIWlFGg (embed)
Obviously something has to be done to slow the rust, electrolysis wouldn't work because it likes to take off paint. Shit they used looks like it leaves the black layer like electrolysis, perhaps evaporust would work better, but I haven't used the stuff.
>wow look we took a 90 year old relic and took all the character away by wire brushing it and slapping bondo on it!
Don't forget the autistic retards who fill in the casting marks on tools with body filler.

[Anonymous No.1929660]

>>1929646
>Don't forget the autistic retards who fill in the casting marks on tools with body filler.

That was common practice on new castings since filler was invented. Many old machine tools have skim coats of filler from the factory. Evaporust works well (I use it on motorcycle sheet metal) and so doe feed grade molasses (popular with hobby machine tool rebuilders).

[Anonymous No.1929663]

>>1929660
Technically yeah, but Wilton or whoever isn't sitting there trying to make a vise look like a show car. Or at least I've never seen a vise with body filler on it pass through my hands.

[Anonymous No.1929716]

>>1929347
>Stock is actually quite reasonable from metal suppliers but online sellers know their customers are either in the middle of nowhere or poorly informed.

I usually buy my aluminum online. I find I can get it cheaper than the two supply places in my city. Steel on the other hand I buy local just because it would cost a lot to ship it. If I was buying tons of aluminum, I would get it local or get a hold of an agent. It's best to shop around.

[Anonymous No.1929760]

Oh boy now I can larp as an online machinist now.
I was originally going to make a smug post while driving home about a $30 lathe, but yesterday the guy said he had a offer for $100 despite me requesting him to remove it from the listing when he said he'd hold it for me several days ago. But said I would match it and he said he would go half way so could be worse. I gave him 90 since the cross slide wheel pin hole was walloed out and replaced with a screw, which works well enough that I will not tempt fate like the last time I tried with driving stuck pins out of working equipment, especially since these cheap shits are probably zamak like the gears.
Guy sold a rusty horizontal mill for $200 to another guy, but even if it was brought all the way to the garage I have no means to do anything with a several thousand pound machine that probably needs to be rebuilt.

More excited about finding the H frame workmate on the side of the road on the way there for free to be desu.

[Anonymous No.1929871]

>>1929760
One of us!
One of us!

[Anonymous No.1929937]

I broke it mostly down and cleaned all the ways. Chuck is in pretty shitty condition after pulling the jaws, retards cranking on it and breaking a lot of threads but will probably be usable. Already missing those machines from back in high school after cranking on that lead screw handle for a while.

[Anonymous No.1930070]

How level should the bed on a CNC router be? If I’m within .01 of an inch is that considered acceptable? Also is there a proper way to be doing this? I’m just winging it

[Anonymous No.1930079]

>>1929760
Hand to rescue did a rebuild on that

[Anonymous No.1930089]

>>1930079
I saw that before I bought it to see how it went together and what I could look at on it.

[Anonymous No.1930160]

>>1929760
Wow, what a fucking cunt. I wouldn't have dealt with the asshole if he couldn't keep a promise.

[Anonymous No.1930166]

>>1930070

Routers are generally a little more forgiving, due simply to the nature of the work they usually do and the materials they do it with. You're probably fine with that you have.

However, if you want to do it "properly", you'll need a machinist's level. Personally, I wouldn't (and didn't) bother.

[Anonymous No.1930176]

>>1930070
>>1930166
with a cnc router, dont you could put down a spoil board bed and and do a surfacing pass so that the bed is flat relative to the spindle, so .010 wouldnt be that bad if thats as close as you can get it.

[Anonymous No.1930177]

>>1929760
Wait a few months, go to his house and do $70 worth of property damage.
Fuck these retards

[Anonymous No.1930178]

>>1930176

That's fine if you're doing work on flat/flexible stock (which is a router's bread and butter) but if you ever want something really flat that won't conform to the bed, it doesn't help you.

Granted, slim chance that's going to happen and, at that point, the precision of the linear guides themselves are in question, but still.

[Anonymous No.1930180]

>>1930160
>>1930177
>craigslist sends auto notifaction because drill press was mentioend
>lathe there too
>ad says $30 in title with no other prices, what did he mean by this
>mother died clearing out the house
>what were you thinking for the late?
>oh I don't know what it's worth, $30?
>ok I can come tonight (its an hour away)
>oh no I can't until Wednesday
>ok can you hold it and remove it form the ad thanks
and it picks up where I already said
>oh I didn't know what it was worth, I can't pass that up,there are several people who would give me $100
Meanwhile he's breaking balls over a partial lathe when he sold this for $200.
When it was $30 I was tempted to give him like $50 if it was decent in person.
I'm not really thrilled because the chuck is pretty shit condition, at least I got cutting oil he found.
Then again given the price I figured it's worth more in parts (well the shit chuck takes a dent out of that) but it's not like it's a loss in the monetary sense. I plan to use only the finest cough cheapest cough chinkshit tooling I can fin to minimize investment and see what I want in the future, last memorable thing with a lathe was manually crash the head stock in highschool turning screwdriver handles because I forgot the direction it went, so it can only go up from here.
With the ways clean and gibs tightened there isn't any play and the head stock seems to be tight, but the chuck is the real issue I'm worried about since it's an odd size, and the lathe is so small that odds are even if my ability is there, I couldn't make a back plate for a import.
I sold my motor and passed on a cheap on since I didn't need them, but I found one on craigslist for free with some other shit so I might get that for free at least. Though it's a 1/2, which is like double the recommendation for it, but like it was going to survive a crash with the zamak gears no matter the motor jej.
I'll probably get a chink shit $30 aluminum tool post and a t nut and work from there.

[Anonymous No.1930185]

>>1930180
That mill would have been a pretty cool little project at that price too

[Anonymous No.1930190]

>>1929334
Chad

[Anonymous No.1930196]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wH-R0ud2Tew

damn even an old haas can do this

[Anonymous No.1930246]

>tfw no 5-axis okuma

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9dNHMO0Hl2k

[Anonymous No.1930463]

>>1922654
Alright lads, I need your advise. I am but a lowly office drone, but I know this is doable. I've already done one with a drill press, https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/95604039 and https://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-indexable-carbide-tool-set-39931.html on which I ground down the shank down to 3/16" so the would fit in the circle cutter. I now realize I should've cut it a lot shorter to minimize vibrations.
What I need is to cut a specific diameter hole +-0.075 in order to reuse the flange(we're in short supply of these, and they're holding up several high value items) and weld a 4" NPT coupling onto it. The flange is 304 stainless, thus a bitch for a limpwristed faggot like me to work.
Out of the set, did I use the right angle tool thingy? Which is which? Pic is flange

[Anonymous No.1930464]

>>1930463
Circle cutter tool.

[Anonymous No.1930465]

>>1930464
And the one out of these that I used. Should I have used a different one?

[Anonymous No.1930467]

>>1930465
And this is how I already managed to trepan one out.
Any more information a helpful fella would need I can provide.

[Anonymous No.1930469]

>>1930465
None of these are even remotely for what you are doing with them, but if you want it to keep an outside diameter, then obviously you'd use the second one in that setup, the one that gives you side clearance.

[Anonymous No.1930475]

>>1930469
That helps. The diameter isn't too critical as it's getting a coupling welded to it and I run a de-burring tool on it for a bit.
Besides shoving this into a lathe which I don't have access to and freehanding it with a die grinder, what would you recommend?

[Anonymous No.1930477]

>>1930475
There exist hole saws that you buy for the diameter you need. But if you already have these tools, then just go ahead and do it with these, pay attention to the tip of the carbide so you're not trying to cut with a broken insert.

[Anonymous No.1930480]

>>1930477
The diameter I need would necessitate a custom hole saw, three or four in fact depending on the porting needed for this item. I broke the tip of two of the insert's corners the first one I succesfully cut. It vibrates too much as it nears the end of the cut, the flange is slightly warped from welding. I figure I should either use a different flange or use some wood/aluminium to both help clamp it down and support the flange from underneath.

[Anonymous No.1930541]

>>1930185
Perhaps but reality comes first in this situation, even if it was dropped off at the end of the driveway it'd be impractical to move and no power to supply it.

[Anonymous No.1930549]

>>1930541
you could power that thing with a song and a rotary phase converter, no fancy electronics to worry about

[Anonymous No.1930554]

>>1930549
What use does a several thousand pound mill that needs a rebuild and I meed to transport 70 miles do me when my lathe weighs 50 pounds and isn't even operable at the moment?

[Anonymous No.1930559]

>>1923593
Manual mill can do it but it will be very hard

[Anonymous No.1930675]

>>1929131

I buy cutoffs from ebay heres a $20 order inculding shipping. theres random shapes and thicknesses but nothing i am going to cry about learning what i cant and can do with my machine. plus its 6061 so its very forgiving for smaller machines

[Anonymous No.1930777]

>>1929037
Uh if $50 is too expensive for ya then youve made a mistake buying a lathe

[Anonymous No.1930794]

>>1930180
>that rusted out
$200
Pretty fair tbqh

[Anonymous No.1930805]

>>1929131
you can use stuff like ABS stock for fucking around to learn some things

[Anonymous No.1930808]

>>1930777
No, it's not the cost in the monetary sense, I am just shocked that with all the old lathes with tiny old rocker tool posts and chink mini lathes with 4 way tool posts that people immediately replace with quick change tool posts, that the old unwanted ones cost more than what people replace them with.
Like the 4 way allen head sort of tool posts, they come by default on the shitty china lathes, yet I literally can't even find more than one at banggood or ali, it's all these tool holders. There isn't even any knock off old rocker lantern posts on those sites. When the chinks make something and don't even sell it on the sketchy chink retailers, that's bizarre.
>>1930794
One of the tiny zamak gears on this dinky shit is $20, you're telling me there ain't near a grand in parts in the guts of that machine if you broke it down?

[Anonymous No.1930893]

>>1930808
Rocker toolposts suck dick, 4 way toolposts are terrible, you have to shim them and only are shit.

Quite frankly the only piece of any atlas lathe that people buy are the gears. And since a year or so ago Tubalcain did a video about 3D printing them, the prices have plummeted.
You'll sit on a pile of parts for years trying to sell them all on ebay

[Anonymous No.1930894]

>>1930808
no one wants to buy a 4-way toolpost new

[Anonymous No.1930912]

>>1930893
>Rocker toolposts suck dick, 4 way toolposts are terrible, you have to shim them and only are shit.
Yes I am aware that they are replaced for a reason. Which is why I thought I could get one for like $15 with the hardware to slot right in to the cross slide. I am a turbokike at heart, I seek to minimize my money into a project until I see what I have to work with. Until I have a motor and a way to cut material I can't really find out if the damaged chuck is viable or how much slop there is when the machine is running. Okay, with the T nut and the chink tool post I'd probably be in $60. I don't particuarlly care about $60 in the general sense if I find something I want or something, it is that I seek to keep the total investment to a minimum so I can wash my hands of it easy and not fall victim of sunk cost if I deem it to be too costly. Which if the chuck is toast would be my moving on point. If this was a 618 or any other more substantial bench top hobbyist machine, I'd just skip right to buying the stuff without a word since they are more """"serious""" .than this.
And quite frankly dealing with sub optimal shit is nothing new to me, and for my purposes which at least for now would be just reducing diameter and parting off shit like screws, bolts or drilling holes things with a chuck in the tail stock, I would be able to deal with the it.

Meanwhile people are actually paying constantly $40+ for it on ebay from looking at completed listings, which I have no idea why.

It's not an Atlas, it's a 109, there are plenty of recently sold parts off them on ebay, they have a following for some reason from all I've heard and machines command a premium for being a one hand portable lathe.
I don't plan on parting it out or making a fortune, I just used that as an example to say that I'd be shocked if that causing isn't worth substantially more as parts than $200. As a user machine it's not worth much, but neither is this as is.

[Anonymous No.1930950]

>>1926423
>>1926273
I just realized I can do tool orientation using different setups, does this mean I can do 3+1 axis machining by just entering G code manually for 4th axis rotation between programs? It sounds like a pain in the ass, but I need to finish up some projects that are still in Fusion and 4th axis makes my workholding a lot easier.

[Anonymous No.1930957]

>>1930950
I don't see why not.

[Anonymous No.1930958]

>>1930957
3/4 shearhog, 6061 aluminum, waay too much stickout for roughing, going to use a royal live center that I already have going forward.

[Anonymous No.1930960]

>>1930958
mill-turning without a center in the end is pretty slow

[Anonymous No.1930962]

>>1930960

[Anonymous No.1930963]

>>1930962
like this except with a center

[Anonymous No.1931210]

>>1922654
Hey guys, I have a Machine question

So at work we have these two HAAS VF2s

The programs we run are shared between the machines via the cloud, or whatever, so I know the programs are the same regardless of what computer terminal I pull the program up on.

The issue is that one of the machines facets the outside diameter of circular contours while the other machine does not.

Alot of the older boomer machinists I work with dont know the new programs and machines in and out, and the guy they sent to school 5 years ago left last year. Im not really a CNC machinist by trade, I've just kind been thrown to the sharks because Im a quick learner and have an apptitude for this kinda stuff.

I read through the manuals and found some settings, Like setting 85 that adjusts max corner rounding, or something. Both machines are set to .025

The machine that has the problem also has a setting I cant find in the other machine that does not have the problem. Its called a 191 setting and it adjusts finish settings I believe. It has three setting Rough, Medium, and Finish. I set that to finish to see if it would help with the faceting, and it did, but not enough to eliminate it.

Anyway, Does anyone here know why the part on the left side of the picture is coming out different form the part on the right?

The right side is what we want.

[Anonymous No.1931258]

>>1930950
Why havent you pirated Inventor yet?

[Anonymous No.1931276]

>>1930469
So I want the flat side of the carbide towards the outer diameter of the circle I'm trying to cut, right?

[Anonymous No.1931278]

>>1931276
Yes, it should actually have a small angle of clearance so that the tip of the carbide is the outermost point contacting the metal.

[Anonymous No.1931286]

>>1931278
Excellent.
>mfw 4chan has been a significant career boost several times, this time putting me in good graces with upper management.

[Anonymous No.1931305]

Any thoughts on vises for a CNC router? I can only fit the smallest of real milling vises because of the low Z clearance. There are some specialized router vises but none of them are built like real milling vises.

How bad are drill vises? This one looks like it's been precision ground so better than an aluminum router vise, has v slots for work holding, and built in parallels for holding flat bar. I figure it should be okay holding something against the fixed jaw if it's compressing the workpiece with the screw. My biggest worry is that if using the ledges on the jaws it to hold flat bar, it won't actually hold it flat because the free jaw might lift.

The other choice that seems decent are the 2-part vises where the fixed jaw is fixed to the table, and the free jaw is a separate piece that has very little movement to minimize jaw lift, just a few mm of movement and slides on rails.

[Anonymous No.1931318]

>>1931210
Sounds like one of the machines is worn out.

[Anonymous No.1931325]

>>1931305
2 piece vise thing

[Anonymous No.1931369]

>>1931210
I bet it's one of those HSM settings that make it take corners differently or something.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwujoXvgGzA

[Anonymous No.1931375]

>>1931369
>>1931210
maybe one of the machines has hsm and the other doesn't, or one has it turned on and the other doesn't.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3hvq8GKJ1lA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvWeYcSLx7c

[Anonymous No.1931378]

woah, the xom rfq system has some real part quantities on here.

simple parts up to 1,000 quantity.

[Anonymous No.1931390]

>look at hobby machinist forum
>pinned post is screeching about chink and hobby lathes and say they are banned from posting

[Anonymous No.1931399]

>>1931378
actually up to 5,000

must be tired of hiring chinese people to make 3" diameter bars with a 2" hole drilled through or something

[Anonymous No.1931462]

>>1931390
link?

[Anonymous No.1931468]

>>1931462
I think industry arena blocks posting about chinese shit machines, probably practicalmachinist too.

[Anonymous No.1931521]

>>1931468
>>1931462
yeah practicalmachinist, I ended up there somehow and it was funny to see a chimpout about people daring to post machines that only weight 500 pounds for sale and the owners personal vendetta against small lathes going back like 10 years

[Anonymous No.1931584]

>>1931390
Hobby-machinist is the best forum for actual hobbyists, PM is filled with smug old timers. Half of the threads you see are "use the search bar it's been discussed" or telling someone to buy something new. There is a ton of high level knowledge on the site, but none of the low end stuff a learning hobbyist needs.

[Anonymous No.1931679]

>>1929384
If you're talking about a machine like this, then unless you're literally a Joe Bloggs backyard machinist then don't bother.

[Anonymous No.1931734]

>>1931375
Good videos, I appreciate it. I’m gonna try adjusting some of these settings at work and see if it helps. Will get back to you guys during the week

[Anonymous No.1931741]

>>1931734
Write down what the settings where originally before changing too many things and fucking it up.

[Anonymous No.1931765]

>>1931741
Good call

[Anonymous No.1931773]

>>1930808
1 grand in parts if it was brand new\very good condition. Yours aint, and not many people want a tiny lathe like that, let alone parts.

[Anonymous No.1931811]

>>1931773
I'm talking about the clausing probably being worth that much in parts you doofus. The point is both of the machines are in a less than usable state as, but the mill is worth a lot more in parts compared to it's selling price than the lathe. The clausing is in worse shape, but I imagine the internals that didn't get as much open exposure to moisture are worth far more than little dinky gears on a lathe because it's an actual serious machine that is more desirable. I just don't get why the guy would bust balls over $60 dollars when he could've probably gotten a few hundred more on the mill given the area's pricing.
People do want parts for these for some reason, there's nearly 200 completed listings for used sold parts on ebay since August, but that's besides the point.

[Anonymous No.1931834]

>See big lathe for sale for virtually nothing
>no friends to help lift it
>no truck to move it
I'd go rent a van and disassemble it but knowing massholes I'll be 50 dollars and 50 minutes in and get a call it's sold.

[Anonymous No.1931846]

I want to build a stainless steel quasiturbine (pic) with a pinion and annular gear connecting the driveshaft to the rotor. I imagine the pinion attached to the driveshaft, and the interior face of the rotor acts as the annular gear. I think a bandsaw is the best way to get a good seal between both the rotor and stator, but the geometry of the stator must also be specific to properly seal with the rotor throughout the cycle. What are some good resources on precise contour sawing with a bandsaws?

[Anonymous No.1931992]

>>1923621
>Going to get 3 phase power for it

VFDs are dirt cheap and give you adjustable speed control. Three phase is often billed at business rates so check how that will affect your bill. I have a 15HP rated RPC (also quite handy) but am installing VFDs for the speed control and the RPC will run my welder and when I buy one, a serious air compressor. Practical Machinist has some choice phase converter and VFD info in their forum.

[Anonymous No.1931997]

>>1923634
>There has got to be a way to DIY a mill on the cheap.

Three grand like the other poster paid for a (good) used one IS cheap, and that's before tooling. Have transport and solve the rigging problem (I don't need riggers and bolt crossbars beneath machine tools then winch 'em onto my trailer for safe, stable moves) and you can reduce transport costs dramatically vs. paying a pro.
If you're hardcore you can do like my bro and buy a mill with a broken gib for 500 bucks then fix the gib and hand scrape (he took Keith Rucker's scraping course) everything back to new specs but that's a shitload of work. He's doing it mostly for fun but he'll have a fresh dovetail ram BP when he's done and might CNC upgrade it.
If you live in the Rust Belt machine tool prices tend to be lower than elsewhere.

>>1926799
Wise choice as they're very easy to work on.

[Anonymous No.1931998]

>>1931992
What about digital phase converters,. Im sort of half ass planning a shop and was looking at them. I guess they are 99 percent effecient.

Go ahead and do a thorough write up with pros and cons for me. That'd be great.

[Anonymous No.1932008]

>>1931997
even a bridgeport is kind of crap, an old Tree or similar cnc is an upgrade for sure

[Anonymous No.1932010]

>>1931998
Efficiency doesn't matter much. Convenience does. See the Practical Machinist forum for the best current info since those gents are pros and newer VFDs are coming out all the time.
I bought one for my lathe after using my bros to adjust spindle speed during large diameter cuts. I've not finished wiring the one for my mill (the wiring is simple, but my back is badly fucked and I'm intermittently crippled so I'm taking a few days off). I ran cable to a locking plug straight from the motor and wired that to turn clockwise as viewed from above then will use the VFD for directional control as advised by most installers. My bro uses these which are what I bought. I'm wiring everything with plugs so if anything shits the bed I can swap in my other unit as needed but I'm an ease of maintenance fetishist. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DKJWM6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My breakers will be at hand so they'll be my e-stops.

[Anonymous No.1932012]

>>1932008
True and the heavier beasts sometimes go cheaper because of branding. My promachinistbro has made fucktons of money with his two BP EZ-Traks though. (I used a USB flash drive to floppy header adapter to convert them from floppy disk which is common.) You can also buy adapters for other old CNC tools which replace serial cable connections to PCs.

[Anonymous No.1932060]

one word of advice for you new machineists... im sick and tired of seeing kids that dont now what their doing in the shop breaking shit and doing a crap job... shut up and sweep and let the experienced guys work in peice... you gotta earn our respect before you can expect us to give you a chance...

[Anonymous No.1932068]

>>1932060
Isn't it a bit late for you to be posting grandpa?

[Anonymous No.1932072]

I told my coworker that I would help him finish his 80% ar lower but I never actually did one on a bridgeport before. I can't use any of the fancy tooling I bought to do mine because it's meant for HEM or whatever the meme is called. what kind of doc should I tell him to use, given that the whole operation will basically be slotting?

[Anonymous No.1932090]

>4chan even has machinists
in college learning CNC operator and introductory programming, and it's cool to know that my favorite website has machinist frens too

[Anonymous No.1932123]

>>1932072
1.5x diameter for a 3 flute

[Anonymous No.1932204]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJkPxgI_GMY
new abom hall industrial, 5 acres of machine tools under one roof

pierson workholding fixture friday
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4oFe7XyzrL0

[Anonymous No.1932210]

>>1932060
>if you are a new machinist, you must NOT be inexperienced and green, you must NOT make mistakes, you must NOT ask questions until you have earned MY respect
>you earn that respect by showing proficiency in janitorial skills and shutting up!

Here's some advice for new machinists. If you end up in a shop filled with retarded ole boys like this, get out.
In my experience, everyone who acts like this is a shitty teacher while being very rigid and slow to adapt to changes.
The ole boys need to earn your respect as much as you need to earn theirs.
Just because they have been around a long time doesnt mean they are actually good.

>I do it this way, because ive always done it this way
You can get really good at doing something poorly or inefficiently if you repeatedly do it for 20 years. These guys are filled with bad habits they wont be able to break, and they will hammer rigid thinking and bad habits into you.

Youll learn over time which machinists word you should take for gospel versus which you should take with a grain of salt (or outright ignore).
And in most cases, the dumbfuck you shouldnt listen to is actually the dude trying to destroy your ambition and browbeat you into hierarchical submission so he can feel superiority.
They are scared of young guys coming in and learning. They dont tell them to go sweep when they have an opportunity to learn something useful.

The actual good teachers arent afraid of a clueless inexperienced guy and they feed your ambitions instead.

[Anonymous No.1932212]

put a low quote in on the 3" diameter 4140 pieces with a 2" hole through the middle at quantity 100

hope they bite

[Anonymous No.1932258]

>>1932212
>hold onto pieces with 1" of material instead of 2"
>save $300

[Anonymous No.1932378]

>>1932258

>but thats not the way we always do it hur dur....

on some good news i am cleaning out the shop today hopefully i can get to the point where i post projects and make vids again

only the finest harbor freight and chinesium tooling will be used.....

[Anonymous No.1932380]

>>1932378
>but thats not the way we always do it hur dur....
What? Clamping force is adequate at around 1/8" on milling machines. Why would 1' on a lathe be better?

[Anonymous No.1932387]

>>1932380
because on a lathe the part will go flying if it shifts in the jaws

[Anonymous No.1932419]

>>1932123
so like .150 since you have to use a 5/16 tool for the corner radius? what do you do if the flute length is shorter than your pocket depth? I bought a relieved shank tool for mine but I think we're just using a regular em for this. will using spray bottle coolant really crack carbide or is that just boomer lore?

[Anonymous No.1932422]

>>1932419
it was probably true back in the '60s or so when carbide tools were relatively new; modern carbide grades don't have nearly as much of a problem with intermittent coolant

[Anonymous No.1932423]

>>1932419
no wait it's .218 corner radius for the bigger hole so 1.5d would be .656 doc. will that really work?

[Anonymous No.1932425]

>>1932419
I wouldn't even worry about the shank rubbing, the flutes are probably within a thousandth of the shank anyway.

[Anonymous No.1932426]

>>1932423
A good tool should be able to do 1.5xD slotting, shit tools probably only 1xD.

[Anonymous No.1932441]

>>1932426
But the workholding might not be good enough or the machine might not have the HP.

Hell the tool might slip out of the collet and start cutting even deeper.

[Anonymous No.1932455]

>>1932210
i think you might be one of the dum*** kids at my shop...

[Anonymous No.1932461]

order for more brass parts coming in, not confirmed yet.

quicker and easier than before at least.

[Anonymous No.1932465]

>>1932455
You might need some introspection anon, there is probably a reason every single kid who comes through your shop fails and is very slow to learn, the only people who stay around seem to be dumb as fuck.
Maybe its a whole generation of failures, or maybe they are thriving over in your competitors shop which doesnt fucking suck.

[Anonymous No.1932509]

>>1932210
I started at a shop full of old machinists that seemed on the surface like they might be this sort, but when I crashed the machine they pretty much shrugged and went "everybody does that at some point".
They were chill as fuck. If you're not fucking up constantly you're okay. If you're hired to be a button pusher and show proficiency for anything greater than that in the least people are more than willing to give you a chance. The only reason I crashed it in the first place was because they were willing to let me. And I learned a lot from them, and from that experience.

Other than the management it was one of the best work environments I've been in. And the management was usually okay too. It wasn't until this covid shit fucked them up monetarily that things took a turn for the worse. But I digress.

[Anonymous No.1932657]

>>1932441
it's just a bridgeport with a kind of worn out spindle I think. tool is probably going to be this
https://www.lakeshorecarbide.com/716dia3fluteendmillaltincoated.aspx

[Anonymous No.1932752]

>>1932657
altin is bad for aluminum milling I think

ZRN preferred

[Anonymous No.1932759]

>>1931992
same anon (>>1923621). I having the electrician install a static phase converter until i can drop the cash on a RPC. no three phase into the house. they would bill at commercial rate plus the work to put in special lines from the closest substation. so SPC or RPC are my options.

[Anonymous No.1932870]

>>1932752
I have a 3 flute zrn coated endmill I bought for aluminum but I got it for cnc and I don't have cnc anymore so it's no good for this.

[Anonymous No.1932882]

>>1932759
Get a VFD instead. I've been down the road of both SPC and RPC and both are fucking retarded.

The only real reason to have either is if you have a large shop with a lot of machines that you don't want to buy VFDs for, but even then the pros that come with VFDs are worth it imo.

[Anonymous No.1932884]

I "leveled" my lathe recently and now I have high vibration at high RPM.

What is the easiest way to unfuck this?

[Anonymous No.1932913]

>>1932884
fix the leveling of your headstock and check that your motor belts aren't too tight

over-tightening the motor drive belts caused an odd vibration on my old tool room lathe one time

[Anonymous No.1932964]

>>1932913
I hadn't changed any of the adjustments on the headstock, only the feet screws.

The belts are a bit weird right now, since my lathe is clutchless, they're on relatively loose so my static phase converter can actually start the thing (I'm planning on getting a VFD for it but 7.5 HP VFDs are expensive)

Regardless, I'll check the belts, I'd rather avoid adjusting any of the headstock screws if possible, since I'm liable to fuck it up I believe.

[Anonymous No.1932966]

>>1932964
an outdoor rotary sounds like a good solution for motors of that size

[Anonymous No.1933005]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWoJRjqEBUQ

Not sure youtube even alerted me there was a new edge precision video out.

[Anonymous No.1933042]

>>1933005
This is kind of why I can't get into machining. All that work for a single use jig.

[Anonymous No.1933045]

New decorative style seems to have came out okay.

[Anonymous No.1933046]

>>1933045
more convenient to just sit on a desk or mantle at least

[Anonymous No.1933047]

>>1933046

[Anonymous No.1933128]

>>1933045
>>1933046
>>1933047
Damn it now i have to eat something.

[Anonymous No.1933258]

>>1933042
It's all kind of pointless if you're just doing one off parts, the real meta is now he can make those specific tie downs 10x more accurately and 2-3 times faster than if you were working those bends individually. Much of machining is only financially viable if you're looking at high production numbers, this is why pre-production job shop work is so expensive.

[Anonymous No.1933326]

>>1932882
alright ill look into vfd's. people seem to think they are alright so still an option for me. theres still time.

[Anonymous No.1933496]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUggzM0JOlI

robrenz builds a grinding spindex, 5 millionths tir

[Anonymous No.1933506]

Damn, pretty nice updates to Fusion.
Template library and more.

https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/blog/october-2020-product-update-whats-new/

[Anonymous No.1933528]

>>1933506
Who even is their market?

[Anonymous No.1933530]

>>1933528
basically everyone except people using high-end 5-axis toolpaths, they have featurecam for that.

The reason templates are nice is that you can open a 3d model, insert a template, customize a few things and have a good idea of how long it will take to manufacture the part, so you can get the quote returned in a timely manner. (job shops)

[Anonymous No.1933532]

>>1933530
Job shops cant afford fucking around with buggy garbage software with piss poor support like Fusion360. They were never the market for it in the first place.

[Anonymous No.1933536]

>>1933532
sure sure

[Anonymous No.1934063]

why does trying to turn very small diameters suck so much?
>trying to take some 1/8 bar down to 5/64
>as soon as my tool touches it the insert chips
>deflection like hell and cutting like shit
>recheck my tool height to make sure it's on center
>part just fucking bends at the chuck like a limp dick

[Anonymous No.1934065]

>>1934063
It's easier to start with 1/2 or larger stock.

[Anonymous No.1934080]

>>1934063
are you using a negative insert or a negative holder?

neutral or positive holder--also at least a positive insert geometry for less tool pressure. tool pressure means the part will want to deflect away from the tool instead of cutting.

if you have a surface grinder you could use that with a spindex and a thin grinding wheel.

[Anonymous No.1934081]

>>1934063
did you accept that xom job that was like a toothpick sized piece of steel with geometry down to like 5/64?

damn, bad choice. surface grinder + spindex is the way to go, if you have time you should sweet talk a local shop into grinding them for you instead. probably worth paying them to do it for you instead of having to tell the customer you can't do it.

failing that, grind and polish a HSS toolbit to a super sharp edge and positive rake.

[Anonymous No.1934114]

Mystery Thread - Part 2!
In the previous thread >>1920073 , I posted about a thread found on a guitar tremolo bar. I repair and tune (cheap) guitars and almost all the guitars I acquire are missing the tremolo bar so I have to find replacements. Tremolo bars are usually of the 5 or 6mm variety but many asian guitars come with 5.2mm bars which I cannot readily find online. 5.2mm bars that you can easily find online come as a "direct insertion" and don't have threads (see pic). However, many cheap guitars are of the 5.2mm threaded variety. I recently ordered a "genuine" 5.2mm threaded bar and had to pay $20 for it and it finally arrived. That's like a 1/5th of the cost of the guitar and it completely kills my small profit.

I'm trying to figure out wtf these threads are so I can cut my own. I went to hardware store and here are my findings:

1) Thread is definitely not M6x1.0 - as you can see from the pic, about 2mm of the bar go into the M6x10 nut and then it stops
2) On the guitar, I can insert the M6x1.0 bolt into this "5.2mm" hole/nut about 1mm into it before it gets stuck
3) Thread is not 1/4-20 - again, about 2mm (2-3 threads) go in and they get stuck
4) It can't fit in any other gauge on this board

From the pic I took, I think there's a 1mm distance between each thread (so it is x1.0?). And given they come from asia and given the size is given as 5.2mm, I'm assuming this is some kind of a metric thread. So the rest of the measurements are in metric (taken with a pair of digital calipers):

OD of the threads: 5.77mm = .227"
OD of the shaft itself: 5.18mm

Interestingly, M6x1.0 bolts have and OD of 5.88mm so this is why it doesn't go in but I don't understand why it wouldn't go into an M6x1.0 nut.

Anyway, can someone please HELP!

[Anonymous No.1934127]

>>1934114
screw pitch gauge should tell you if it's x 1.0mm or whatever, then you just thread the shaft until it fits

find someone with a mini lathe and a threading tool, have them thread a bar for you.

[Anonymous No.1934142]

>>1934127
>have them thread a bar for you.
that's probably more expensive than buying it off ebay.

[Anonymous No.1934144]

>>1934142
if you can't figure out what the thread pitch is then there's nothing to do

buy an M6x1.0 threading die and use that to thread an undersized shaft?

[Anonymous No.1934150]

>>1934144
>buy an M6x1.0 threading die and use that to thread an undersized shaft?
My thinking is to buy a M6x1.0 die and tap set and to cut M6 threads into the "blank and to just re-tap the "5.2mm" threads inside the tremolo block. I'm just afraid if this will totally fuck up the threads since I don't know what kind of shitty metal blocks are made out of...

[Anonymous No.1934162]

>>1934150
you should be able to tell if it's cross-threading when you run the tap in a turn or two.

[Anonymous No.1934172]

>>1934162
Well, I might order an M6 set.

OK, so I don't have a thread pitch gauge but my phone has a good camera and I've taken a pic of the threads and a ruler. I then copy/pasted the top of the threads and pasted them close to the ruler.
So, from this pic, you can see that this is pretty close to 1mm pitch but not quite. 11 threads seem to be around 11.3-11.5mm.
According to some online charts, metric threads come in these pitches:
>- Metric: 6.0, 5.5, 5.0, 4.5, 4.0, 3.5, 3.0, 2.5, 2.0, 1.75, 1.5, 1.25.1.0, 0.9, 0.8, 0.75, 0.7, 0.6, 0.5, 0.45, 0.4, 0.35, 0.3, 0.25
So clearly this is between 1.0 and 1.25 pitch.

WTF is this shit???

[Anonymous No.1934176]

>>1934172
from the shitty photo it might as well be 1.0

[Anonymous No.1934209]

>Currently building something with components that requires M10x0.75
Hahaha kill me

[Anonymous No.1934230]

>>1934114
get a set of screw pitch gauges and buy a small metal brake so you can bend your own trem bars and get he appropriate thread die

[Anonymous No.1934231]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_p5u6lVdZpU

Oof.

[Anonymous No.1934244]

>>1934209
I have a English made Sherwood brand M10 x 0.75mm tap set that I have literally never used in my life

[Anonymous No.1934304]

>>1934081
no I'm trying to make a specialized pin spanner to take something apart.

[Anonymous No.1934320]

I have little to no metal working tools. So a basic planishing hammer and dolly, and some tin snips. And don’t want to buy a bead roller for 150 bucks.

I have a 5x2.5 foot 1 inch thick desk I want to convert in to a clean room work space. I have some 24 gauge sheet metal, how would I go about wrapping the steel around the top and edge of the desk?
>ib4 diy brake
It’s not a conventional rectangle it has a circular cut out in the middle about a foot and a half long, and the edge of the desk is at a 45 degree angle instead of a flat 90. Would a hem be doable with a pair of

Would it be worth it taking it to a fabricator to do it for me? How much should I expect to pay?

[Anonymous No.1934348]

>>1934244
Apparently neither have many bolt or threaded rod manufacturers: most M10 "fine" is 1.0. Fuck knows who thought M10 x 0.75 was a good idea. I'm literally going to have to buy a die I'll use maybe once so I can cut my own studs.

[Anonymous No.1934349]

>>1934172
Just buy a thread gauge my man. Hell for all you know it's a Whitworth thread.

[Anonymous No.1934401]

>>1934230
>and buy a small metal brake so you can bend your own trem bars and get he appropriate thread die
Problem is finishing. Specifically, chrome plating.

[Anonymous No.1934405]

>>1934114
This might be weird, but could it be NPT, BSP, SAE?
If the plate's made in China, I see a lot of equipment in use there that uses BSP for some odd reason.
https://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/Pipe-sizes-threads.pdf

[Anonymous No.1934406]

>>1934320
>It’s not a conventional rectangle it has a circular cut out in the middle about a foot and a half long, and the edge of the desk is at a 45 degree angle instead of a flat 90. Would a hem be doable with a pair of
make it out of cardboard at full scale and fit it all together. then just add some metal for flanges around the edges and cut it out of sheet metal with snips. finally, joint it all with pop rivets.
about the only extra tool you'd need are metal bending pliers... and you'd only have to bend flanges.
and you don't even need full-length flanges... you can have a flange ever few inches or so.

[Anonymous No.1934407]

>>1934405
It's def not a pipe thread of any kind. OD is smaller than all pipe threads.

[Anonymous No.1934414]

>>1934407
UNF or UNC 12-28?
Diameters seem to match up.
And yeah, I didn't notice the dimensions were below even NPT1/16". IIRC JIS is specified further smaller, but this may even be a case of some manufacturer doing a whatever thread and calling it self tapping.
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/unified-screw-threads-unc-unf-d_1809.html

[Anonymous No.1934447]

>>1934406
You’re the man. Thank you for practical advice. I hadn’t considered rivets at all.

[Anonymous No.1934458]

>>1934447
good luck. and don't skip the cardboard step! unless you're good at CAD and have perfect measurements, it's so much easier (and cheaper if you fuck up) to mock it all up in some cardboard and duct tape. you can pick up from the side of the read or a dumpster. a guy I know who does fabrication makes mockups for all the big things he does.

[Anonymous No.1934625]

>>1934414
thats what ive been thinking for a while that its 12-24, i was gonna post it threads ago but forgot why I didnt, something shit about 5.2mm shit confused me. according to his ruler >>1934172
, its about 12 threads per 12.7mm . but his ruler scale pic also makes it look like the thread is bigger than 6mm diameter. and my (quick) look into trombels or what ever, list them mostly as 1/4-20, 10-32 or m5 and m6, none list 24 thread anything. I only see 1, and ebay listing , "5.2mm d 10-24 thread" but the threaded portion is clearly larger than the 5.2 diameter section

guitar man, take a 10-24 bolt and line it up withthe threads on the trombone and see if they line up.
even better go to fastenal and match the shit up. or next time you go to the hardware store, just get a thread gage instead of a pile of screws , but since you got some, take the pile of bolts and see if any of the threads line up with eachother as well as compare it to other tolberlone bars you have

>>1934172
also fucking usa ruler missing the first half a mm

[Anonymous No.1934628]

Is creating moulds for plastic injection or creating extruder plates, or standardizing holes, or creating tools or sharpening chipper knives supposed to be paid the same as creating spark erosion electrodes on tilted rekt vices and ancient cnc machines that cant recognise past windows 95 outlet of a computer?
Im used to working with shitty equipment and i can improvise better than anyone and i havent made a mistake yet, i have only worked with cnc for 8 months and already they are pushing things nobody wants or knows how to do
I like a challenge but if they dont stop with the coppet turds im going to fuck shit up and lose the job i thought i liked
They even like to skip on brass wire spark cutting thing and give me to try and cut a 2x2 mm square hole over 6 mm deep because its "easier" for them
I dislike spark erosion because for me it is glorified drilling as a friend of my said it, but moulds require dead point angles
I see that i cant create a perfect electrode on a huge machine and nobody knows or cares to know which cnc machine cuts up a copper electrode better and more precise than some ancient simens sinumeric machine that has half of safety features and takes jolts and stops to switch fron g0, g1,g2 and g3 points and whos table has probably seen combat not just abuse and ware
I hate the sight of copper
Women ought to have that job

[Anonymous No.1934682]

>>1934348
>>1934244
>>1934209
so, you guys only do this on the weekend or something? im kidding, but i can think of 3 things off the top of my head that i use m10x0.75 moldmaster hotrunner nozzle, bearing locknuts and er8 collet nuts. one these it makes sense to use them though for max root diameter or short length, which is why i use this size frequently for bearing shafts but i also cut the threads on the lathe . idk why your studs need to be that, but fuckin engineers
>>1934628
lol i bet this is solidcamfag
>supposed to be paid the same as
the answer is yes, we all get paid like shit because we all chose the wrong career for making money ,that doesnt involve overtime.Sometimes I wish I just got a job at the city. Its not like it sucks less when you have nicer machines, it still sucks other reasons. the only pay difference is what country your in/shift you work
> i have only worked with cnc for 8 months and already they are pushing things nobody wants or knows how to do
thats your own fault for being new and a wizkid. i know next job im gonna phone it in hard and leave at 4:30. i dont know why you hate cutting electrodes, its easy shit for the most part even, use a sharp endmill for the finishing passes, and use wear if needed, and use green aluminium cutting fluid. if your problem is 3d surface toolpaths and your stop and go motion, I mentioned it last time, you need to check your machine and g61/g61.1 and g64 are used. you said last time it was using "g51.1" idk what g51.1 would even be, but if you meant g61.1 that would line up with why you are stopping at every motion. do a test program at work , just a bunch of squares, run it 3 times with g61/g61.1/G64 in your command block at the top. from my own assumptions, g64 will be the fastest/smoothest motion but least precise, and g61 will be better/faster than g61.1, which will stop every change in direction

[Anonymous No.1934760]

it hurts me when people say machinists are poorly paid because I'm making even less money than my machinist friend who graduated trade school at the same time as me and is living in a way less expensive area.

[Anonymous No.1934781]

>>1934628
wait, what's so bad about machining copper?

[Anonymous No.1934819]

>>1934818

New thread.

>>1934818
>>1934818

[Anonymous No.1935293]

>>1922654
I have a threaded rod to lift a load. I will connect a three phase motor(1400 rpm/ 8 Nm of torque) to rotate it (diam of 6 inches = 15cm). Should I use a speed reducer or will the torque damage the thread. Also If I use a speed reducer the speed will decrease but the torque will increase will that destroy the thread ? It's not a fastener just a threaded rod attached to a nut holding the load will excess torque be an issue even though my rpm is low ?