/3DPG/

[Anonymous No.1891415]

OP is dead, long live OP Edition
Old thread: >>1884352
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-series, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks, Fusion360, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, some /g/entoomen prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is your best bet.

[Anonymous No.1891417]

>>1891415
First for 3D printed boolit.

[Anonymous No.1891447]

>fiddled around with the printer for a bit
>talked to two friends about the printer
>got problems solved, its up an running
my first benchy, printed with the e3p i got yesterday and with the filament of questionable quality that came in the box.
>2 quieter fans already ordered
>currently printing upgrade parts
fine tuning will be on Saturday I guess

[Anonymous No.1891452]

>>1891447
Looks good, congrats.

[Anonymous No.1891468]

>repostin
How do I make Cura stop putting heat and wait commands before the start G-Code in files so I can make them Heat the bed and nozzle and then start homing and probing all at the same time without waiting five minutes for the bed and then nozzle to come up separately before calibrating

[Anonymous No.1891476]

>>1891417
For what purpose? There's no way something like that could be stable in flight. Put an insert into the tip.

[Anonymous No.1891479]

>>1891476
Punching paper at short range, doesn't need to be stable. I'd prefer if it weren't, since it means I can use smaller outdoor ranges that way.

[Anonymous No.1891572]

>>1891415
whats the longest print you've ever printed?

also, tfw you don't make the op

[Anonymous No.1891608]

tried ironing in cura for the first time. It's fucked up every print I've tried. Am I missing something?

[Anonymous No.1891645]

>>1891468
M140/104 will heat the bed/hotend without waiting. M190/109 will make it wait before the next step. This is what that part of my Cura startup code looks like:

M140 S{material_bed_temperature} ; start preheating the bed
M104 S{material_print_temperature} ?T0 ; start preheating hotend
G28 ; home
M190 S{material_bed_temperature} ; heat to bed setting in Cura and WAIT
M109 S{material_print_temperature} ?T0 ; heat hotend to setting in Cura and WAIT

[Anonymous No.1891649]

>>1891479
balls might be better in this case, can't tumble. Harder to seal into a case I would imagine however

[Anonymous No.1891676]

>>1891645
no I get that and that's basically how my start code looks, but if you open the gcode file above all of that it will have m104, m105 (report temp), m109, m140, m105, m190 THEN it will have the customizable start gcode below it. and there doesn't seem to be any way to change this, short of editing every gcode file manally, as an option or text field so literally every single file ever sliced by cura has that bullshit at the start forcing the machine to do tempn waits before reading your custom start codes.

[Anonymous No.1891718]

>>1891676
first result on google
https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/18559-changing-cura-generated-start-code/

exactly what this guy said
>>1891645

use those exact variable names in your own starting gcode or else cura will put that at the start for you. I just tried and checked it myself.

[Anonymous No.1891746]

If I'm making a ~1 inch gear from nylon do I want 100% infill?

[Anonymous No.1891750]

>>1891572
Printed the fuselage to an RC plane that was two 6 hour parts and two 17 hour prints screwed and glued together.

[Anonymous No.1891754]

>>1891746
Nah, just make sure you have 4-5 shells.

[Anonymous No.1891755]

>>1891750
Post pics? Your own model or a mod of someone else's?

[Anonymous No.1891776]

>>1891755
I’ll post better pics when I get home. Thing’s fucking massive. 5 foot wingspan. 9” prop (9x6x2 or 9x4.5x3) going buttnaked fast. 2600mah 4S. The plan started out as a new fuselage for the FT explorer wings but I decided I wanted a V-tail... then realized the wing loading was a bit too heavy given the over 3 pound AUW so I added almost a foot to the wing.

Wouldn’t recommend it as it is. It’s tail heavy and burns through batteries. Might make a V2.0 that’s got a longer nose, FPV system and better servo linkage geometry.

[Anonymous No.1891810]

>>1891776

[Anonymous No.1891817]

>>1891718
literally what I said doesn't work and isn't editable
I'll post screenshots later

[Anonymous No.1891825]

>>1891754
The second one deformed because(?) I left our on bed to cool. Is the bed not hot enough or it's this something else? The first warped, but evenly and I had pulled it off the bed immediately.

Just wondering if I can turn off bed heat mid print or something to avoid, or if it's necessary to get a hotter bed (kinda maxes out around 51°)

[Anonymous No.1891827]

>>1891825
Pic retarted

[Anonymous No.1891828]

>1 day, 20 hours, 35 mins
6 pieces + supports

[Anonymous No.1891847]

>>1891827
That’s pretty bad. More infill will make your prints warp worse, but nylon needs a 90°+ bed.

[Anonymous No.1891854]

>>1891776
>>1891810
You should really reduce the amount of printed parts there, how much do all the printed parts weigh?

[Anonymous No.1891870]

>>1891810
>>1891776
Wow that looks fantastic. I've got a FT explorer and I can see where you were going with it. is the area connecting the body to tail sturdy? I know they don't do 3d printed quads much because the flex. I've gotten 8 G's on my explorer and the paperboard has held up well.

[Anonymous No.1891873]

>>1891828
How well does that work? Is it really worth it to use at the range or just a meme?

[Blackfox No.1891887]

I just started out, I got myself a resin printer (Elegloo Mars) and I've been looking for a way to cure the prints without leaving them outside.

I figured since I just needed UV light I would go out and buy some reptile UVA bulbs since those are the closest to the 400nm needed for curing. But When I set up two lamps today one on either side of the print the started to melt at the joints.

Is there something wrong with using UVA bulbs instead of using LEDs?

[Anonymous No.1891888]

>>1891873
considering I just printed it...idk about some things, but it needed some cleaning of the holes and mag catch slots. It locked fine with pmags, gi mags, and loaded everything just fine. much quicker than my friend's stripper clip feeder and loading them by hand.

it might've not been worth it later, but at least I didn't spend $100 on that magula

[Anonymous No.1891922]

>>1891870
The tail is held on with 3 M3 screws and a ton of superglue. It definitely flexes but it holds together even in crashes.

[Anonymous No.1891925]

how much ventilation do i need to safely 3d print stuff?
im gonna be moving into a studio apartment for the next few months and i wont have a garage or outdoor area to put a 3D printer in.
the room itself is pretty spacious but of course being a studio, the living room is also gonna be the bedroom

[Anonymous No.1891927]

>>1891925
Resin will kill you, most FDM plastics can be huffed

[Anonymous No.1891934]

>>1891927
sorry, should have specified that its mainly going to be using ABS and PLA.
yeah, i know resin is super toxic.

[Anonymous No.1891947]

>>1891934
pla and petg and a couple others are basically non-toxic and you would need to Huff a comical amount of their emissions to to even have a chance to be affected by them. Abs and asa and most others however require ventilation or filtration. Easiest thing to do if you plan on doing a lot printing with these other than opening a window is to enclose the printer and seal it up as best you can to make it so you don't need such extreme ventilation or filtration to empty out a small box versus a large area where vapors may disperse with the printer open, or at least keep the vapors inside during printing to let them settle and decay. Plus you have the benefit of being able to have a temperature controlled environment which stuff like ABS absolutely requires if you don't want to pull your hair out when using it.

[Anonymous No.1891954]

>>1891934
ABS smells like shit but it's largely not harmful outside of being unpleasant. Maybe huffing it constantly is bad. You'll want an enclosure anyway like the other anon said.

Do you specifically need ABS, e.g. for acetone work on it or temperatures beyond what PETG can handle? Because otherwise PETG makes it almost obsolete these days, being more temperature resistant than PLA (thus being "good enough" for a much wider variety of applications where PLA is unsuitable) and being as strong as, or stronger than, ABS.

[Anonymous No.1891958]

>>1891954
plus uv resistance

[Anonymous No.1891973]

>>1891776
well done anon

[Anonymous No.1891986]

Can any one tell me what this is and how I resolve it? Rest of the print is flawless. Im getting this and random stringing but not on every print. I've tried doing retraction test prints and heat tower tests and I adjust for the sweet spot which looks perfect until I print.

Using an ender 3. 195 temp which I was printing at before I got these issues. It's what best towers say my pla works best at. It can go as low as 190.

[Anonymous No.1891991]

>>1890612
In my case, Artillery Genius, it didn't work adjusting it heated, worked great at slightly above room temp. Don't know why.
>>1890868
They're all a bit different: CNC Kitchen does mainly tests, MM does more creative stuff, Sanlanderer covers a broad spectrum. I'm also watching Teaching Tech and Printing Nerd, but not as often. RClife is also good.

[Anonymous No.1891997]

/diy, I have come with a question:

My old GT2560 motherboard finally burned out, and I'm looking to get a new motherboard.

I have access to purchase a MKS_Gen_L 1.4 and a MKS_SGen_L 1.0 motherboards, for the same price.

>Believe me, I would like to get any other motherboard, but I live in MF South America here.

I do want to upgrade to a 32 bit processor, but I do want to know if the old RepRap LCD2004 display from the GeeeTech GT2560 will work on the MKS_SGen_L 1.0 motherboard, all I can find is they can use TFT displays, and no google search can confirm nor deny if is mandatory to have a TFT LCD screen.

So yeah, does the RepRap LCD2004 display work on the MKS SGen L 1.0 motherboard?

[Anonymous No.1891998]

is thingiverse down for anyone else? nothing is showing up on the site.

[Anonymous No.1892000]

>>1891998
yup. site's there but nothing's on it

[Anonymous No.1892007]

>>1892000
well shit
needed some setting info
guess i'll wait a bit

[Anonymous No.1892034]

>>1891954
>Do you specifically need ABS
not really but we have access to tons of it, generally for free. which is why i brought it up.
if its that much of an issue to deal with, i probably wont use it then.

anyways, thanks for the info

[Anonymous No.1892041]

>>1891986
Overextraction/underretraction, flow rate, or post-processing.
Tinker more or just cut/pull them off.
Each print is going to be different than others. Profiles/settings are just "good enough".

[Anonymous No.1892054]

>>1891986
>>1892041
I should have also mentioned that it could be a buildup of filament between the nozzle and ptfe tube. When the printer tries to retract, it can't pull the filament completely away from the nozzle so some still leaks out. So even though it does retract, it's merely letting off the pressure instead of removing.
Check couplers on either end of the ptfe tube. Check ptfe tube isn't clogged at the end. Clean your nozzle. Something I learned along the way is to put the ptfe tube too far into the hotend and then when you tighten the nozzle back on, the ptfe and nozzle create a better seal. Watch ptfe tube next time it prints and see if it moves. If it does, either add or replace the little clip that prevents the ptfe tube from getting pulled out of the coupler.

[Anonymous No.1892070]

>>1892041
Thank you. Any suggestions on tests to test this on? The usually tests don't really show an issue.

I do trim them but on some areas they're hard to reach
>>1892054
I don't have a clip on my tube. Doesn't it just prevent the release being pulled down not actually hold it?

[Anonymous No.1892072]

>>1891417
well how the fuck are they? what load and what are you shooting them out of? black powder? any burning?

[Anonymous No.1892084]

>>1892070
https://youtu.be/QnrH2Sk7y40?t=354
Vid is about dual extruder but watch at my embed for what you really want. This shows how to do your e-steps for the extruder. Make sure this is good. Side note: make sure the extruder arm is somewhat loose and the bearing can spin well.


>Doesn't it just prevent the release being pulled
Correct, I'm not entirely sure if this is true, but the vibrations of the machine can cause the coupler to let go of the ptfe tube. Pair that with a fast movement and the tube can be pulled more. The clips can be found online and take like 1 minute to print so why not is my opinion.

[Anonymous No.1892092]

>>1892084
the coupler is actually like shark bite plumbing, or push to connect air. you push down on the collar to disconnect. all the printed clip does is prevent the collar from being able to move down.

but I'm with you, why wouldn't you do this?

[Anonymous No.1892116]

>>1892092
I've been fiddling with the nozzle lately and it's awkward to get off.

[Anonymous No.1892118]

How do you prevent this?

[Anonymous No.1892124]

>>1892118
remove supports before curing, get a sharper blade, cut slower

[Anonymous No.1892162]

I have a spook of nylon that I’d like to dry out, but I don’t have a print-dry or food dehydrator. Can I dry it in my oven at 200F or will that melt the spool itself?

[Anonymous No.1892186]

>>1892162
>will a material that is printed around 480f melt at 200f

[Anonymous No.1892197]

>print nylon with carbon fiber
>eyes and skin start itching like crazy
>wtf?
>read this is micro fibers of carbon fiber from handling the prints and filament
well fuck me with a fucking stick. I am NEVER using this shit ever again. shit itched so fucking bad that I had to go to the doctor for my eyes.

[Anonymous No.1892221]

>>1892186
Not the filament dingus, the spool. I’m just assuming it’s made of recycled sewer pipe or some shit so I thought I’d ask just to be safe.

[Anonymous No.1892257]

>>1891572
About 42 hours.
And the fucker still failed.

[Anonymous No.1892260]

>>1892072
>well how the fuck are they?
Mediocre.
>what load and what are you shooting them out of?
I tried VV N310 and N320, didn't create enough pressure though because the projectiles are too light. I've got some locally made powder though (TP103) which works great in these rifles (pic related). They're about a .75 cal.
>black powder? any burning?
No black powder, but smells and smokes like the stuff when fired. Guess the ABS is burning (smells vile), so I'm going to need some nitro cards or something.

[Anonymous No.1892375]

>>1891746
>>1891827
If you're making anything out of nylon, you need a heated enclosure (about 70°C). PA shrinks with a force sufficient to pop your part form bed, regardless of bed temperature and material you use. Brim is not sufficient.

>>1891954
PET-G has no widely available solvent.
Printing a model in parts and solvent welding is common for ABS / ASA, and cannot be done easily with PET-G/PLA.
ABS / ASA is more impact resistant.
>>1891958
ASA is UV resistant.

>>1892221
Check the material of the spool. Usually there is a marking that indicates the material. If there is none, just chip off a piece and do a test (or better, a burn test to identify the plastic).

[Anonymous No.1892458]

>>1891415
I just got this TRONXY X5SA-2e Dual Color 3D printer for 50% off. Dimensions are 330x330x400mm. Do you think this will be good for printing full color 3D miniatures for table top games?

[Anonymous No.1892463]

Been having lots of trouble with my new all metal hotend. heat creep has been awful. I printed a new fan mount but it still kept jamming.
Left: normal print with new hotend
Middle: added direct drive (retraction set to .5mm). Jammed at exact same spot
Right: no changes. Finished
WHYYYYYY?!?! JUST BE CONSISTENT PLEASE!

[Anonymous No.1892464]

>>1892458
Not really, better off doing miniatures with a resin printer.
Scenery is able to be done with FDM though.

[Anonymous No.1892467]

>>1892464
Will the miniatures come out okay, though?

[Anonymous No.1892505]

>>1892467
Fine features matter on miniatures and they're often blurred/hidden by fdm print lines.
They're also difficult to print given they're so small and fiddly.
It's not impossible to get really good looking fdm mini's but it'll take some time.

[Anonymous No.1892506]

>>1892463
>>1892458
should have bought a prusa

[Anonymous No.1892511]

>>1892506
lol

[Anonymous No.1892512]

>>1892506
Please die.

[Anonymous No.1892517]

Is there any decent 3d printers for ~$500US that's not made in China?

[Anonymous No.1892525]

>>1892517
Prusa Mini, or a DIY build. Most components will still be Chinese, though.

[Anonymous No.1892569]

>>1892512
Please buy a prusa

[Anonymous No.1892570]

>>1892569
Chink knockoffs have become so good that your marketing team has to resort to begging? Huh.

[Anonymous No.1892573]

>>1892570
I'm begging for the sake of the quality of this thread, imagine if instead of the endless posts of people trying to get their 100$ chinkshit printer to function we could have quality discussion.

[Anonymous No.1892577]

>>1892260
>Guess the ABS is burning
yeah the problem for me is constant stage 3 fire ban. wouldn't want to set the state on fire anymore than it already is.

[Anonymous No.1892578]

why is nylon so fucking weird?

also best nylon / PET-G printer? does PET-G need a heated bed?

[Anonymous No.1892580]

>>1892573
what's the best large format delta printer then?

[Anonymous No.1892582]

>>1892573
Quality discussion about what exactly? Arguing over which slicers and upgrades are the best? Guccifagging who has the most expensive printer with the most expensive add-ons? Talking shit about $100 chinkshit printers like a bunch of elitist homos?
Go start your own prusa only General then, and you can circle-jerk with the other like 10 people here that own one.

[Anonymous No.1892583]

>>1892578
>also best nylon / PET-G printer?
Few can do nylon out of the box, but pretty much anything can with a little tweaking. PET-G is almost as easy as PLA and you can get good results out of a stock Ender3.
>does PET-G need a heated bed?
Yes.

[Anonymous No.1892586]

>>1892578
>why is nylon so fucking weird?
Because it's so god damn good. The problem with strong materials is that the fundamental properties that make them strong, also make them warp.

>also best nylon / PET-G printer? does PET-G need a heated bed?
Never had any issues with German RepRap (GRR), though they cost a pretty penny. Stratasys too. Note that there's a difference between slapping layers of nylon together, and actually achieving fusion between those layers, you practically need a heated chamber for that if you want to push enough heat in there, without warping of course.

PET-G does not require a heated bed per se but it does make it a lot easier - and which printers even come without a heated bed nowadays? I use hairspray on glass as an adhesive in an Ultimaker, start low and slow with zero fan and ramp that up eventually to 50%.

>>1892580
>delta
GARBAGE.

>>1892582
>Guccifagging who has the most expensive printer with the most expensive add-ons?
I am fairly confident that we have established that I operate the most expensive printers here.
>Go start your own prusa only General then
Great idea, get this Prusa-faggot outta here.

[Anonymous No.1892598]

>>1892586
>>delta
>GARBAGE.
elaborate?

[Anonymous No.1892605]

>>1892582
Instead of an endless barrage of tech support we could instead be talking about actually printing shit

[Anonymous No.1892606]

>>1892580
d*lta fags need to die

[Anonymous No.1892607]

>>1892586
have fun overpaying for garbage

[Anonymous No.1892613]

>>1892118
Don't use ball end supports, learn to manual support.

[Anonymous No.1892615]

>>1892598
Deltas are allergic to hotend mass and vibrate like shit if you put a hotend in there that can actually take advantage of the movement speed. You could offset that with a direct extruder, but then you add even more mass and the problem begins again. I can understand the system for small and cheap units but especially there the build volume is sized wierdly, not great for functional printing. The bigger you go, the less sense it makes, and that's not even getting me started on leveling the bastards, or the computing hoops you have to jump through to go from cartesian coordinates to a delta's machine axis, or the fact that accuracy gets worse the further you go from the origin.

[Anonymous No.1892620]

>>1892605
Is it your first day? /diy/ is 95% tech support if you haven't noticed. And you still haven't Quantified what " talking about 3D printing" what actually entail, in fact I'm sure I pretty much nailed it in my other post so don't bother. Short of that, it would just be a "show off what you printed" thread in which case /p/ or /hr/ would much better suit your intentions.

[Anonymous No.1892622]

>>1892124
Easier said then done. Even new xacto blades put enough pressure on supports to snap them.
>>1892613
I don't use ball end.

[Anonymous No.1892635]

>>1892458
>full color
nope, only 2
but that could still yield interesting results but your models needs to divided up per color.
I'd be interested in seeing what you end up finding and doing with that.

still neat but probably the best part is you can make your support out of soluble material and melt it away.

[Anonymous No.1892636]

>>1892615
>or the computing hoops you have to jump through to go from cartesian coordinates to a delta's machine axis
you've never programmed a line of code, and your a mathlet if you think converting to polar or triangulation is difficult.

>accuracy gets worse the further you go from the origin.
[citation needed]

[Anonymous No.1892638]

>>1892622
>Even new xacto blades put enough pressure on supports to snap them.
I feel like the problem is between the tool and the chair.

[Anonymous No.1892640]

>>1892458
get a 2nd Dual Color printer, then you'll have 4 and can do CYMK for full color range.

[Anonymous No.1892641]

>>1892635
>probably the best part is you can make your support out of soluble material and melt it away
PVA is why I really want a dual extruder printer. I'm sick of having sloppy surfaces above my supports.

[Anonymous No.1892669]

>>1892638
I mean I could do it but it would take fucking forever. I really doubt that you spend 4 hours cleaning every single resin print. Clipping and then slowly and gently slicing away at the supports before sanding. Just seems like bullshit.

[Anonymous No.1892736]

There is nothing wrong with my chink delta printer
I legit don’t understand the hate for deltas

[Anonymous No.1892740]

Just received a new clone hotend for an old Wanhao i3 Mini, just to find out the heater cartridge is 40w, on a 50w PSU.
Is there a way to step down this heater cartridges power draw or do I need to either get a 30w cartridge or better PSU?

[Anonymous No.1892741]

>>1892736
Because back in the day when you actually had to calibrate your printer, cartesian faggots were too intimidated to learn something new and shit on them.
Since then its kept the same rep

[Anonymous No.1892751]

>>1892741
My printer has auto bed leveling so that’s not even an issue for me and my prints seem fine

[Anonymous No.1892753]

>>1892751
Kind of a weird texture on all the flat surfaces but other than that they look good.

[Anonymous No.1892756]

>>1892463
i have a similar problem, and in my case lowering print temperature is the key, probably either the new or the old thermistor has an offset
also, the faster i print, the less chance for heat creep, so with higher speeds i sometimes set slightly higher temps

in your case i'd recommend you to double check your slicer first, slicers are often so stupid that they print small area layers slower but without dropping nozzle temperature, and so literally help the heat creep up the filament

[Anonymous No.1892758]

>>1892753
I think that is the filament, I don’t seem to get that on other filaments but then again I am very new only had it for a few weeks and haven’t had a whole lot of experience

[Anonymous No.1892831]

Hey /3dpg/
Post photos of your print station or ideal setup
I'm looking to set up a proper station and looking for some inspo
Pic for attention

[Anonymous No.1892879]

>>1891645
>>1891718
forgot to do it yesterday but here it is today. as you can see the customization code is indeed there exactly as written, however there are the commands automatically included above them that cannot be removed that i was talking about. and this was sliced from a raw stl using the default e3p machine profile aside from adding a g29 to the start. i also made a new profile using the "custom" preset since it should have absolutely 0 inbuilt tweaks and hacks and sliced it without any extra input, still got the same unwanted inclusion.

[Anonymous No.1892892]

>>1892831
holy fuck, gaijin bars in japan must be fucking amazing if this is the local bar skank. Beats the nasty ass skanks in my bar.

also, just picked up some filament from microcenter and some hatchbox came in the mail.

[Anonymous No.1892904]

>>1892892
I wonder why 4chan rotates my pictures?

[Anonymous No.1892922]

>>1892669
>it would take fucking forever
If taking off a support cleanly takes more than 1-2 seconds with a sharp blade, you're likely doing it wrong.

>Clipping and then slowly and gently slicing away at the supports before sanding. Just seems like bullshit.
Welcome to the world of scale models and miniatures.

[Anonymous No.1892924]

>>1892904
it deletes exif data so you don't dox yourself
rotate, crop, re-save.

[Anonymous No.1892941]

>>1892922
What resin are you using then? I've used multiple and even when it's fresh off the build plate the supports are extremely likely to just snap when you apply sideways pressure to them with a blade. You have to dig into them sideways like you're carving wood or some shit.

[Anonymous No.1892944]

>>1892879
Try adding "material_" before both of your temperatures. From that thread that was linked, it looks like print_temperature might be deprecated, and that might be why Cura is automatically generating the extra startup code.

https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/18559-changing-cura-generated-start-code/?do=findComment&comment=218839

[Anonymous No.1892949]

hey guys what software should I use to make models?
I'm interested in engineering projects and maybe also learning to sculpt
can any software do both competently?
I used to use autocad

[Anonymous No.1892950]

>>1892941
ELEGOO's ABS-like red and grey, Anycubic's green, Formlabs clear, grey, and high-temp

Try slicing them instead of cutting them

[Anonymous No.1892954]

why are normies so fucking stupid?
I constantly see people printing with dangerous materials in unventilated rooms

[Anonymous No.1892968]

>>1892954
I had to physically take away the glow in the dark filament from my local makerspace because those who ordered it didn't realise it was abrasive and even after all my warnings they still wouldn't listen.

[Anonymous No.1892973]

>>1892944
MOTHERFUCKER IT WORKED. how stupid, like I said that's literally the default start code plus a g29, why the shit would they use known depreciated code in their presets? and why not have a simple like line of code that translates the old nomenclature to the new when the file is generated? whatever, it's fixed now and anon deserves at least 46 internets.

anyone who uses cura and was having the same issue take note

[Anonymous No.1893023]

>>1892197
I have never heard of this before.
Have any other anons attempted to print a sex toy out of carbon fiber and had to go to the doctor?

[Anonymous No.1893031]

>>1892949
I am also interested in this.
What mesh editing, design and rendering programs are anons using?
Blender? MeshLab? Kagemusha?

[Anonymous No.1893033]

>>1892968
Abrasive to the lungs, abrasive to the extruder or generally unsuitable for glow in the dark sex toy production?

[Anonymous No.1893038]

>>1892949
>>1893031
Having experience with Autodesk Inventor/Fusion 360 and Solidworks, I much prefer Autodesk. There are some functions the Autodesk software can perform simple and easy that require multiple steps to achieve in Solidworks.
Also Meshmixer.

[Anonymous No.1893046]

>>1892949
Autodesk inventor is really easy, probably exactly the same as fusion 360.
I've also used autoCAD, that can do some simple 3d but it's not as intuitive.
for more sculpting stuff I'd look into blender. free and tons of tutorials.

I'm trying to mess with freecad now to generate some CNC toolpaths.

[Anonymous No.1893047]

>>1893031
>>1892949
Blender for organic and sculpting, Fusion 360 for precision and mechanical things

[Anonymous No.1893055]

Autodesk and Solidworks are expensive. How about free and opensource?

[Anonymous No.1893057]

>>1893055
i use freecad but idk the other options. i think fusion 360 has a personal-use version. can't say i'm a huge fan of freecad since i'm on linux, and the appimage force-closes when doing certain things (like changing material to wood)

[Anonymous No.1893059]

>>1893055
Autodesk is free for I think 3 or 5 years if you have a student email.

[Anonymous No.1893064]

>>1893055
Blender is free. Fusion 360 is free if you make under 100k with it. FreeCAD sucks balls, don't even try using it unless you're a masochist. This isn't elitism or anything, it's like if you took Blender and made it 10 times more esoteric and stuck in 2005.

>>1893059
This is a good option.

[Anonymous No.1893078]

>>1892949
>>1893055
I'm using Solvespace, which is easy to learn. Undecided on the mesh editor, tried to use Wings3D a bit, for faces I'll probably get something more specialized. Precise parts and sculpts are two different things. Problem with Solvespace is, it can't import anything which isn't in it's own file format. It might be possible to import DXF dependent on the file, the devs say importing is generally very difficult to implement. I'm also interested in Open SCAD.
I really wonder how I could combine something that I have as a mesh file with some CAD. Or even alter some parts with precision. Like having a hand model, but want to handle the insides with more precision. Thought about getting slices as images and to use those as a scale to design a part to fit inside or so. I basically need to be able to use a mesh as constraint for the size of mechanisms. Maybe that's more of a question for >>3DCG

>>1893064
Blender can be used for CAD? Mechanical parts, assemblies?

[Anonymous No.1893084]

>>1893078
>Blender can be used for CAD
If you're brave enough. It's not parametric but I designed things in it for years before I got ahold of Fusion

>how I could combine something that I have as a mesh file with some CAD
Fusion lets you do that (if by mesh you mean something like STL, OBJ, FBX, etc.)

[Anonymous No.1893105]

>>1893033
To the extruder, although to the lungs is probably not incorrect either.

[Anonymous No.1893120]

>>>1893078 (Me)
>>1893084
>>Blender can be used for CAD
>If you're brave enough. It's not parametric but I designed things in it for years before I got ahold of Fusion
Okay, I won't use it to create my own designs then, but maybe if I have to alter someone's design a little so I can combine it with one of mine. Like for couplings or hollowing it out a bit.

>Fusion
Ah, okay. That's then one big reason why it's so recommended. I don't even know if it's for example possible to put a hole for a bolt or screw into a mesh model with Wings3D. But, then I only tested it briefly yet.
Need to get a new PC before I start using Fusion and Blender, also I'm normally only using Linux.

[Anonymous No.1893123]

>>1892950
I've used that too. I have contact diameter at .8 and contact depth at .4. I don't know man. Even if I do everything in my power like using sprue cutters and then try to sand the nub off even the cutters just snap the support off the models. If I increase contact diameter it's going to fuck up all the fine points on the model that it touches. I just don't get how it just works for other people.

[Anonymous No.1893131]

>>1893123
I only ever use a hobby knife for this reason; cutters always make divots for me

[Anonymous No.1893142]

I always dismissed Fusion 360 and ended up using other software packages. I am planning on thoroughly trying it out now. What is the opinion of Rhino?

[Anonymous No.1893219]

hi I'm stuck on a project on how to calculate the shape/size of the ellipse you get when cutting a cylinder, can anyone help?

[Anonymous No.1893222]

>>1893219
The ellipse can be defined by the radius of the cylinder and the angle at which it is cut. In CAD, make an extruded shape of the cylinder with the correct diameter, cut into it at the correct angle, done.

[Anonymous No.1893226]

>>1893142
Fusion360 is basically solidworks, but free. It's harder to use than solidworks for some things, but it is a god send if you want to learn a decent cad/cam and are too poor/don't want to pirate.

Also, if you join some amateur aircraft Association (I've forgotten which one) for like $100 a year then they give you a student subscription to solidworks and some other benefits.

[Anonymous No.1893244]

Printing driving shafts (dogbones)? Yes/No/Depends

[Anonymous No.1893245]

>>1893244
>driving shafts (dogbones)
Depends on the use case and stress it has to undergo during operation.

[Anonymous No.1893294]

>>1893226
This what I was talking about and membership is $40, not $100

[Anonymous No.1893296]

>>1893294
https://www.eaa.org/eaa/eaa-membership/eaa-member-benefits/discount-programs
Goddammit

[Anonymous No.1893301]

>>1893131
Do you use heavy or medium supports?

[Anonymous No.1893312]

>>1893219
LongWayOfTheElipse = cylinderDiameter / cos(angle)
Where angle=0 is a strait cut
ShortWay is just the cylinder diameter

[Anonymous No.1893339]

>>1891415
Anyone know the estimated price for the Creality CR-30 belt printer? ETA?

[Anonymous No.1893433]

Can someone explain what's going in here please? I've been following teaching techs calibration guide on my ender 3 and this is the final test. A heat tower but it's got these blisters all down one side. My retraction is set, my flow and e steps are all dialed in. The rest of the print is smooth as butter but these corners are awful

I've been having small worm like bits of plastic appear on my prints I'm trying to resolve. Everything else is great but those bits.

[Anonymous No.1893449]

>>1893433
Material?

[Anonymous No.1893468]

>>1892831
Why do you appear to be the only one in the foto ov asian descent in what looks to be an asian market/square? & whats up with that drink?

[Anonymous No.1893472]

>>1893468
>being this retarded

[Anonymous No.1893486]

>>1893301
I use almost exclusively light. If a part's undersupported, I just put denser supports so I don't risk chipping out parts

[Anonymous No.1893493]

What filament would you guys recommend trying for something like this?
Its a remix of a fly fishing strike indicator Ive been working on for awhile. In the past Ive printed them in PLA with limited success. They print just fine but after 1 MAYBE 2 uses the threaded shaft breaks off and theyre useless. I was thinking of trying them in TPU but Im not confident in the quality they may come out in, especially the threads. I also dont have a printer capable of printing TPU that has a heated bed. On top of the fact that TPU absorbs moisture so they may not survive well in the water.

[Anonymous No.1893499]

>>1893493
Print it sideways, should help.

[Anonymous No.1893501]

>>1893499
Its quite a small part. Theres pretty much no way the threads would come out usable if printed on supports.

[Anonymous No.1893564]

i just bought an ender 3, waiting on it to ship. i was planning on dropping in a new mainboard so i can run silent stepper drivers but i'm on confused how many drivers i need. i see some on amazon come with 5 but i only need 4 for x,y,z, and extruder right? i'm guessing the 5th is for dual z?

[Anonymous No.1893581]

>>1893564
Yes.

[Anonymous No.1893588]

>>1893449
Pla. Was a temp tower from 225 to 195. Prints smooth at 195ish usually

[Anonymous No.1893613]

>>1893433
should have bought a prusa

[Anonymous No.1893634]

>>1893433
Insuficient part cooling on thise overhangs.
Print a better part cooler like one of the fang designs and/or slow down your print speeds.

[Anonymous No.1893635]

>>1893588
Strange, my CR10 prints PLA fantastic at 195 (215 with hardened nozzle), what brand of PLA? I've used hatchbox and inland but hatchbox is pretty much my favorite.

[Anonymous No.1893638]

>>1893486
What the fuck. Can I see a part that you've supported?

[Anonymous No.1893647]

>>1893638
Would if I could but I've given them all away by now or they're at work, sorry. A coat of primer and some layers of paint does go a long way though

[Anonymous No.1893654]

>>1893634
That temp towers a bit of a shit show desu. The bridges are one layer thick in order to save printing time. They don't bond properly at any temp. There's better ones on thingiverse.

>>1893635
Mine did until I had a nozzle go full volcano. I rebuilt the hot end after a deep clean. Now I'm trouble shooting a few small issues. If I can solve the stringing then I'll have perfect prints most of the time. I need to watch a print where this happens but I've had power cuts tonight so it has to wait too morning.

[Anonymous No.1893670]

>>1893654
Im not talking about the bridges.
Those corners have a slight overhang to them, when the plastic isn't cooled fast enough it curls. I had that exact issue until I printed one of the fang models for my CR-10.

[Anonymous No.1893683]

>>1893670
I had perfect corners before with the stock fan so not wanting to change anything until I get back where I was before it all went to shit. Adding bits in is only going to cause more complexity

[Anonymous No.1893688]

>>1893683
Your choice I suppose, but I can practically guarantee the part cooling is your issue. Not like it adds added complexity either. The fang models simply divert the air from the included part cooling fan more directly at the part.

[Anonymous No.1893696]

>>1893688
Even if it is then I should be able to solve that with my current hardware. Completely changing how the cooling flows is more complexity into the situation.

[Anonymous No.1893702]

>>1893696
Youre missing a fundamental part of the 3D printing experience. Part of the fun is finding problems and fixing them with shit you print. If the problem wasnt present or easily fixable with the existing part cooling duct no one would bother designing improved ducts.

[Anonymous No.1893734]

>>1893702
You're an idiot. When you try to resolve a problem you don't stack more and more shit on top of it. You find what caused it and resolve it. Attaching parts is fine once your machine is where it should be. It's dumb to do it while trouble shooting. Adding additional bits means retesting everything again from the beginning and is just as likely to introduce further problems instead of resolving them.

[Anonymous No.1893739]

>>1893734
Yea man, you have a problem and I gave you a solution that requires zero extra parts and no additional tuning, yet Im the idiot when you arent willing to accept it. I print PLA up to 215 and havent had issues like you posted on corners since I added an improved fan duct.
Have fun wasting your time for a few more days before you try what Ive told you to and realize it was the solution, retard.

[Anonymous No.1893749]

>ITT boomer tries to pretend 95% of anyone with a creality printer hasnt replaced the part duct

[Anonymous No.1893809]

Are the Chinese 3d printers actually good?
Not likely they'll explode in my face or burn my house down?

[Anonymous No.1893811]

>>1893809
Id wager at least least 8/10 3D printers being used for hobby or small scale use are Chinese.

[Anonymous No.1893822]

>>1893809
>actually good
no
>explode in my face or burn my house down
probably not

[Anonymous No.1893836]

Will I get a virus if I pirate autocad?

[Anonymous No.1893845]

>>1893836
Autocad is shit. why would you even want a solely 2d cad system?

[Anonymous No.1893852]

>>1893845
autodesk inventor*

[Anonymous No.1893898]

>>1893433
not the other guy who's replying: try printing the same test but turned 90 degrees. if the same corner is bad it's probably not a cooling issue. if a different corner fails, then it's probably cooling

[Anonymous No.1893930]

>>1893852
Ah, sorry. Had engineering induced PTSD from autocad and it's shitty ness

[Anonymous No.1893986]

I just got my first printer, picked up about a week ago. I got it used and it needed a ton of electrical overhauling, but now I have everything working and the RAMPS test code runs A-OK (all steppers, hot end, fans working). But when I load the Marlin firmware, it just stalls all the axes on boot. I can see it and talk to it through pronterface, and I can send commands but it doesn't listen since all the motors are locked up. Some people online said it might be an accelleration/ feedrate issue so I set those down to 200mm/min for all steppers, but I still can't get the thing to work. I'm assuming it's trying to home when you turn it on, but I can't figure out what's going wrong. Anyone have ideas?

[Anonymous No.1893988]

>>1893986
And I can tell it's powering the steppers because the axes are all locked like if you shorted the windings on the stepper. It's also generating some high pitch noise but I think that might be the drive signal to the steppers, it gets louder with lower acceleration values but I can never go so low that it actually moves them. But the test code works? So I'm really not sure why it's locked up.

[Anonymous No.1894047]

>>1893988
is there any actual communication going on?
my cnc 3018 did a weird thing where just connecting to it without proper settings would cause the Z axis to drop down on connection without additional input and wouldn't stop until killing power. Once the finer settings were right then the terminal text was clear and motors stopped moving on their own.
I don't think it's jerk or acceleration settings yet. could try adjusting the power on the drivers.

[Anonymous No.1894052]

>>1892118
Cut the supports short of the actual surface before curing.

Print, wash, cut, cure, sand, then whatever else.

[Anonymous No.1894073]

>>1894047
I think so, since when I connect in pronterface it does a dump of the firmware info (date compiled, machine name, etc) and it all matches the stuff I put on the mega earlier when I put Marlin on.

I tried a different firmware that someone else configured and it worked fine, but it's on a super old version and doens't have end-stop noise filtering, making homing impossible. Gonna try and see if it works OK enough without homing.

[Anonymous No.1894078]

>>1894073
Endstops, just like limit switches on real CNC machines, work like E-stop buttons where they are normally high but drop when they are tripped, this why if you break a wire or unplug on, it acts the same way as bring tripped as a safety.
You said you redid all the electrical? Make sure endstops are normally high and the logic isn't inverted.
Not only does this provide an extra safety but I herd it also helps cut down on noise if they are having an issue there.
On my i3v, I went from like marlin in 2014 or something to latest and I'd say it's working pretty well.

[Anonymous No.1894084]

>>1894078
I think when I redid them I set them NO instead of NC. Is there a good reason to do otherwise? I set the config in the firmware to acknowledge that the logic is tripped, I'm pretty sure. But maybe I'll swap and see if it's better. There is a lot of ambiguity on the RAMPS wiki for the encoder physical plug-in info.

[Anonymous No.1894088]

>>1894084
Totally skimmed your post about good points for NC vs NO. I'll redo em tomorrow it's already late here. Plus my hot end got plugged so not like I'm doing much for now anyway.

[Anonymous No.1894094]

>>1893836
Yes, they have recently discovered evidence that Covid-19 (chink flu) can be transmitted through pirated software.

[Anonymous No.1894131]

>>1891572
39h

Thankfully it was a simple print so it worked out fine.

[Anonymous No.1894192]

>>1893501
Is it a nonstandard thread or something? Why not just print it as a cylinder and cut it with a die?

[Anonymous No.1894267]

>>1893493
>>1894192
this
better yet, why not give it a hole and press a threaded insert into it? Then just cut a head off a bolt if you still want to use a jam nut on the other end.

The real beauty in 3d printing is when you can combine it with traditional machining methods.

[Anonymous No.1894371]

Guys, I bought a replacement end stop for my ender 3, but it's logic is reversed, how can I fix this? I'm using the original firmware.

[Anonymous No.1894378]

>>1894371
most of those microswitches have a NO and NC contact. use the other terminal or re upload the firmware with your endstop logic inverted.

[Anonymous No.1894399]

>>1894052
I mean I can't like I said in a previous post. I just printed something else and I'll upload a picture soon. I'm telling you you can't touch the supports with anything without them snapping and taking a chunk with them.

[Anonymous No.1894456]

I need help (please). I have rerun the calibration steps on the printer at least 3 times fully through now, tried to manually tune in the bed leveling, and other tweaks.
All of this and I STILL have problems with clumps, peeling, and stringing. I can't get any reasonably sized print done and even the small ones have globbing.
The printer was working fine but I stupidly brought it inside from the garage, tried to recalibrate for the new surface/environment and now I can't get a good print even back in the garage where it was before...
Will give online praise to anyone who has any ideas I can try to get my prints consistent again...

[Anonymous No.1894472]

>>1894456
>prusa
lol, it just werks

bottom part is too close, top part is too far

[Anonymous No.1894480]

>>1894456
Call Josef. That's the reason you spent 4x as much as an Ender 3 (for tech support).

[Anonymous No.1894482]

>>1894472
I should have mentioned, in the picture only the first layer has been done on the bottom item while the first two layers have been done on the top two.
This makes me think that the bottom level is not the problem. Really the problem seems to be the glob/stringing on the middle one

[Anonymous No.1894486]

>>1894482
Looks like you need to calibrate your extruder. Too much extrusion causes little ridges that both separate from the print bed (as seen in the middle item, you can see where it separates at each pass) and above the print for the print head to snag on. Try lowering your extrusion by 1-5% and seeing if that helps.

[Anonymous No.1894487]

>>1894456
>>1894482
Have you cleaned the surface with IPA?

[Anonymous No.1894497]

>>1894486
This sounds like a good tip. I was looking at this and was going to be my next tweak.https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#esteps
I will mess with the extrusion and repost my results. Thanks

>>1894487
Yes, I have cleaned the surface between each print with IPA

[Anonymous No.1894500]

>>1891572
9 days.
Pretty sure it was the Millennium Falcon, wanted to print it as big as I could on the CR10.

[Anonymous No.1894502]

>>1894078
Aye, this was it. Thanks.

[Anonymous No.1894503]

>>1894482
>>1894486
I'm curious if anyone might think this is a nozzle temp problem. I have noticed that the recommended temp for PLA varies all over the place and I have switched from the Prusament PLA that came with the printer to Hatchbox PLA. Not sure if wrong temps would cause the issues in the picture.

[Anonymous No.1894505]

>>1894192
>>1894267
That little slot in the thread is for the fishing line.
The point of the design is so you can add/remove and move your strike indicator without having to tie it on. If I do it with something metal I would risk cutting the line when you thread on the nut. Oretty sure trying to tap the thread into a cylinder would run me into a similar problem as the original design. The entire thing is only like 20mm tall, that threaded part is maybe 3-4 mm across.

[Anonymous No.1894508]

>>1894503
Worth testing.
I've used PLAs before that underextruded at 210 but not 215.

[Anonymous No.1894514]

>>1894505
Fishing line is pretty strong, I doubt threading a metal nut would compromise it as long as you're not wrenching down on it with some pliers

[Anonymous No.1894517]

>>1894371
Just change the e.g., X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING macro to opposite value.
( https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/blob/release-2.0.6/config/examples/Creality/Ender-3/CrealityV1/Configuration.h#L669 )
It's there for a purpose.

[Anonymous No.1894518]

>>1894514
Fly fishing line has tensile strength, not necessarily cut strength. You can cut your fly line with your teeth.

[Anonymous No.1894520]

Titan Aero on a Ender 3 -

Worth upgrading of just buy a better printer to start with?

[Anonymous No.1894521]

>>1894520
Not really worth it buying an original Aero, try and find a cheap one on Ali.

[Anonymous No.1894523]

>>1894518
Hmm. Maybe give it a few wraps in the direction of the thread so all the pulling force from the nut puts the line in tension?

[Anonymous No.1894528]

>>1894482
>>1894456
Your first layer is too low down, what material is that anyway?

[Anonymous No.1894531]

>>1894528
It is just orange PLA. I am printing a test cube right now to see if my extrusion settings need to be changed. After I print that I will adjust the z offset to see if I can improve the results as you suggest. Thanks

[Anonymous No.1894536]

>>1894531
Don't print a test cube, they're a scam and don't really tell you anything, expecially don't "calibrate your axises" based on a test cube

[Anonymous No.1894541]

>>1894536
Really? Is printing the benchy a scam too? What's the quickest way to see if my printer is in a good spot calibration-wise that uses minimal filament?

[Anonymous No.1894547]

>>1894541
Nah Benchy is fine for appraising general print quality.

[Anonymous No.1894572]

Approximately how long does it take to upload Marlin into an ender 3? I'm getting nervous, it's still in uploading

[Anonymous No.1894578]

>>1894572
Nevermind, turns out I had to install the serial port drivers first, I'm already in Marlin.

[Anonymous No.1894592]

>want to print nylon
>have to have enclosure
>have to have new hotend
>have to cut and splice wires to install
>Have to have a new mounting bracket
>have to have new thermocouple for hotter materials
>have to flash new firmware

I just want a drop in system for nylon.

[Anonymous No.1894596]

>>1894592
Matterhackers makes a printer supposedly purpose built for printing Nylon, called the Pulsee XE NylonX.
Runs about $1000 and looks like one of those cheap Anet clones.

[Anonymous No.1894599]

>>1894502
good to hear

>>1894505
huh, didn't notice that cut. I would still say metal is the way to go. cut the head off a bolt, throw a cut wheel on a dremel and cut an angled slot on it, and deburr it. the nut will still be tighten the string between it and ball.

[Anonymous No.1894605]

>>1894599
To be honest, at the point that that the parts require post processing and assembly theres no point in me trying to 3D print them. I think Im just gonna grab some TPU and try to see how that works on a non heated bed. Supposedly the old I3 Mini I have can print TPU fairly well with certain settings. Watching some videos TPU has damn good layer adhesion so hopefully the top part wont break. Only real issue is how much TPU absorbs water AFTER its printed.

[Anonymous No.1894652]

>>1894517
Thanks, but this isn't helping me, I found that line in TH3DUF_R2.h and changed it and it's still the same, anyone know what could that be?

[Anonymous No.1894663]

What causes perimeters to not touch each other?
Ive had my CR-10 for some 4 years and walls randomly not touching each other is the only issue I have never been able to completely remedy. It seems to do it mainly on circles, and its usually isolated to 1 part or 1 corner of a part. For example Im currently printing a new extruder setup for a Monoprice Select Mini, 4 parts total, 8 screw holes among them. Its doing it on 1 screw hole on 1 part, not the other screw hole on the same part, and its doing it on the 1 screw hole on an entirely different part. The other 5 holes are perfect.

[Anonymous No.1894699]

>>1894663
not enough extrusion, this shit is almost impossible to get right since material always varies and printers always vary, the truth about infill is that it's not that way to save material, it's that way to give extra material a place to go that isn't outwards.

[Anonymous No.1894703]

Probably no one remembers when I had issues printing out a dactyl case with some prusament gentleman's grey, but I've since gotten a mk3s which just werks™. Save for replacing the heat break that is; got a jam due to that 2.2mm lip on that's on the prusa e3d v6 heatbreaks.

[Anonymous No.1894712]

>>1894605
Nail polish might prevent it from taking in water. Don't know, but I'd try that.

[Anonymous No.1894738]

>>1894652
NEVERMIND
Switched to Marlin 1.1.9 and it worked.

[Anonymous No.1894739]

>>1893493
>>1893501
>the threaded shaft breaks off
>pretty much no way the threads would

have you tryed it? do you understand why the shaft shears off? be clear it doesn't break off it shears off. printing sideways would be a huge strength improvement.

that said, PLA doesn't do well outside.

>>1894505
why are you using threads? some kind of spring clip.... like a fucking fishing bobber... where you push to release pressure. having a standard nut and bolt seems counter-intuitive to me at this scale especially if you're having problems.

[Anonymous No.1894741]

>>1894592
>want to print nylon
>remove my borax glass plate
>crank up the hot end temp
>print nylon on my $150 prebuilt POS

the results are moderately good out of the box. a bit of warping, but then again the basement is freezing, absolutely has to be worst case scenerio for nylon- plus the bed temp max is 55º LOL. I'm thinking of pointing the space heater at it next time I need something in nylon. Also don't get me wrong it fucking sucked and I had to babysit and 2/5 failures which is really high compared to my PLA track record, and the prints were small but... I mean it DID work.

I think if I were serious and needed bigger pieces (which I have no doubt would fail as fuck on my rig) I'll probably make an enclosure from a cardboard box, an old hairdryer and a cheap temp sensor. get something that can handle the extruder and bed temp out of the box and hope to be far enough under $1k bux to make it worth it.

[Anonymous No.1894746]

>>1894739
also the nut should fix any imperfections in the threads from support and if not you can use a metal nut to fix the imperfections, then go back to the printed nut.

>>1894605
using a jewelry saw to cut a slot down the middle of a small bolt should take about 45 seconds. I'd be more worried about the weight. I still thing some kind of printed spring tension release would be way simpler and work with what you already have (a printer and PLA).

[Anonymous No.1894768]

>>1894739
As I mentioned to someone else, that threaded part is like 3mm wide and maybe 4-5 tall. Theres no way in hell threads that small will come out usable printed on supports considering the first 2-3 layers on top of the supports are usually terrible. As for any other design mainly because frankly Im not that good at designing, but also because adding a design like that would either require q more flexible or stronger filament anyways or add more weight.

[Anonymous No.1894774]

>>1894768
>>1893493
Not saying it applies to this specific situation, but, consider: one of the strengths of 3D printing is that you can solve things in different ways. Sure, you can copy the original object, but does it need to LOOK the same, or does it just need to FUNCTION the same? What's the core use of this, just float and keep the fishing line pinched inside it? Is there a different way you could go about it, maybe a different shape or different mechanism? If the thread is too small and can't be printed in the strong orientation, why not redesign it so it can be?

[Anonymous No.1894778]

>"PETG can permanently adhere to glass build plates"
oh shit, this ever happened to anyone?

[Anonymous No.1894787]

>>1894774
Basically trying to copy a product that already exists but print them so I can have a shit load of them without paying $1 per.

[Anonymous No.1894791]

>>1894456
shoulda bought a stratasys

[Anonymous No.1894801]

>>1894778
Just heat the plate to 80-60 and you can get it off since the plastic flexes a bit

[Anonymous No.1894820]

>>1894778
There's several instances of people gouging/shattering their glass so yes, take it seriously. Not to me personally, though, I don't use PETG

[Anonymous No.1894826]

>>1894778
Ive never used PETG but yes, Ive seen a bunch of images of it. Somehow it adheres retarded strong and takes chunks out of the glass when you try to pry the print off.

[Anonymous No.1894872]

>>1893493
Instead of the thread+nut I'd use one of those clips used in automotive. You could probably print them too or buy a bag of 100 for like 5 bucks. to release them you push the pin further in so no special tools required

[Anonymous No.1894879]

Where does cheap but decent filament in the UK?

[Anonymous No.1894898]

>>1894778
>>1894801
>>1894826
Ooops, thanks for the warning. I might use parchment with tape, or heating the bed.

>>1894872
Thanks, but might not have the same tensile strength?

[Anonymous No.1894900]

>>1894778
Yes, has happened several times to me. Not a problem on a cheap 220mm build plate, definitely a problem on a 1000mm build plate.

>>1894898
Even on hot beds it can stick, I recommend using hairspray as an adhesive since it also makes print removal on PETG a breeze.

[Anonymous No.1894938]

Trying to print a string test. Nozzle seems to be to close. It touches the former layers. More retraction, slower printing or to close?

[Anonymous No.1894939]

>>1894938
WHAT IS IT WITH TOURISTS IN THIS GENERAL POSTING GOD AWFUL FUCKING IMAGES HOLY SHIT

[Anonymous No.1894941]

>>1894939
It's a tablet, and I'm not used to make a lot of photos.

[Anonymous No.1894943]

>>1891925
For ABS you need ventilation, that shit gives off toxic fumes while printing.

PLA and PETG can be safely printed without ventilation.

Unless you absolutely, positively need ABS, just use PETG - that has almost the same properties. It softens at slightly lower temperatures, and it can't be finished using acetone vapor, but that's it.

[Anonymous No.1894945]

>>1891415
What are the best slicing settings for printing an object like pic related with threads?
When I tried to slice it in Cura with supports, it added supports on the threads, but not the ribbed part underneath. I will be testing this out with PLA on my FDM machine at home before taking it to a professional shop like shapeways.

[Anonymous No.1894971]

When I'm printing towers it destroys the lower layers by pressing onto them. Increasing the limits for the nozzle helped, I'll try more retraction next 3mm and lift Z 1mm. I easily get paper unter the head, so it's not to close in that regard.

[Anonymous No.1895005]

My parts aren't round but they have two flat sports on either side. I've had quite a couple of printers and build/designed most of them myself but this is a problem that I have never had before.
I have tried a couple of different things that I have found on the internet but nothing has worked so far.
-My motors aren't skipping
-Belts are properly tightent
-Interpolation is set to 16
-I have tried three different slicers
-When I use the same gcode on another printer it doesn't happen.

Pic related is what it looks like exaggerated

[Anonymous No.1895010]

>>1895005
Well the y axis is obviously stopping at a certain point. If you enlarge the object is the flat area more pronounced or around the same level?

[Anonymous No.1895016]

>>1895010
More pronounced

I thought this might have been it as well since I'm using linear rails that do require more torque but it scales with the part. Only holes smaller then 3mm have actually bigger flat areas.

[Anonymous No.1895025]

>>1895016
All I can think of is a faulty control board/power supply not delivery the voltage to the steppers. Try measure the voltage to see if they're getting enough supply?

[Anonymous No.1895026]

>>1895025
I use a duet WiFi / Deux combination and this measures the voltage for you. It's sits at a constant 24V.

I can't increase the Amps for the motors because they'll get way to hot.
Does it matter that I use old ultimaker motors from 6 years ago?

[Anonymous No.1895039]

>>1894945
Have you tried without supports?
I am by no means an expert but every time I’ve sliced something like that and printed just fine without supports >>1892758

[Anonymous No.1895114]

>>1894900
dude with a bed at 80 even if the petg sticks hard it will still not damage the plate since it is so soft

[Anonymous No.1895116]

>>1894945
you don't need supports for those threads

[Anonymous No.1895135]

>>1894945
Fillet underneath the ridge and you won't need supports for your part.

[Anonymous No.1895138]

>>1894945
>>1895135
Talking about this ridge, which seems to be the only floating bit.

[Anonymous No.1895149]

>e3d i got last week was pretty much running 24/7 since i got it
>prints pretty good except for some weird imperfections every now and then
>looking through some recommended youtube videos of how to adjust the printer
>apparently being able to rattle around the bed into 3 directions isnt normal and a normal "defect" from the factory
>tfw it was the first thing i noticed when i leveled the bed in
>tfw i'm 3h into a 6h print
finding problems is fun part of the hobby, right?
>PTFE filament in the mail, want to print hero me v5 cooling stuff
>5015 cooler in the mail
>some ball bearings in the mail for filament holder
>thinking about ordering a direct extrusion kit
its a slippery slope for sure

[Anonymous No.1895155]

>>1895138
is there a certain angle set in your support-settings?
maybe there is a filet which has a lower angle than what is set

[Anonymous No.1895168]

>>1895155
Not that I am aware, in cases like this I fillet overhangs and hope it will print.

[Anonymous No.1895196]

>>1894872
those are impossible to move.

[Anonymous No.1895197]

>>1895138
no supports or "only touching build plate"

[Anonymous No.1895198]

>print model
>legs snap off
>print it larger
>legs snap off
fuck I don't want to have to fix every piece of shit I try to print

[Anonymous No.1895308]

I have 4 low rolls of filament and an 11 hour print. None which would survive the print. Should I just slice open a new roll or try to pause the print as I go. Its structural part so Im worried it will compromise the print if I do.

[Anonymous No.1895314]

>>1895308
I've seen people splice pieces of filament together into a larger piece using a hair straightener.
Never tried it myself though.

[Anonymous No.1895346]

>>1895308
You can wire in a filament runout sensor which will pause the print and fully retract the filament so you can change the roll and hit resume without sitting by and watching it all day.

There’s a lot of DIY options that you can print and stick a little micro switch in.

[Anonymous No.1895347]

>>1895005
A little test print. I still have no idea, could it be that my motor doesn't have enough torque? But it's not skipping steps.

[Anonymous No.1895348]

>>1895198
On the model, chamfer the inside edge for more contact area of the leg, use better filament, or print hotter for better layer adhesion.

Or change the print orientation so that the corner of the leg isn’t at a single layer boundary. You give no information or picture, just a complaint so I can’t say what would work best for your issue.

[Anonymous No.1895355]

>>1895347
If you rotate the part does it do it on the same sides or switch the location to the new sides?
If so I would say your v slot wheels have a flat spot on them.

[Anonymous No.1895357]

>>1895355
I'm using linear rails and not it's only on that side.
Pic related of my privious post.

[Anonymous No.1895364]

Does any one have any really good large fdm models? Thinking things like dark souls bosses, resident evil mutants, just really unique large scale stuff that really stands out as a print.

[Anonymous No.1895369]

Chep from filament Friday says Bowden tubes can cause stringing. How accurate is this?

[Anonymous No.1895375]

>>1895369
Only way I can see a bowden tube being the direct cause of stringing is if the tube has some play in the couplings causing retractions to move the tube instead of retracting the filament fully. I suppose the tube being too "open" might could cause it but Ive never had issues with the shitty tubing I got on Amazon.

[Anonymous No.1895377]

>>1895375
I'm running out of ideas in fixing my stringing problem. Prints are decent except the really thick strings I can cut off. If I wasn't autistic I could live with it but I am.. I'm going to try the new Bowden tube, maybe try the Bowden tube insert fix for ender 3s and if that fails I'll pick up a Swiss hot end.

I swore when I got the printer I wouldn't make it an entire hobby. It was a machine to use and not obsess over. But it's become its own hobby. On the. Right side I'm getting loads of exercise checking prints

[Anonymous No.1895379]

>>1895377
I havent had stringing in ages, and the 1 or 2 I may see I can get rid of my increasing my retraction by like .2mm.
As of the last 3 years maybe Ive been running my CR-10 at ~5-5.5mm, 60mm/s.

[Anonymous No.1895384]

>>1895379
My retraction tests come out perfect, it's actual prints which have the problems.

I rebuilt the hot end to fix my last problem. I'm wondering if the throat might not be tight enough or the heat block is turned slightly. Would that cause problems?

[Anonymous No.1895393]

>>1895384
It shouldnt, the heat block on my CR-10 is off as well.
Could try using combing, makes the printer travel through infill as much as it cant so any stringing will be inside the model. Though in the past Ive had problems with that setting causing more problems than it fixes.

[Anonymous No.1895476]

>>1895198
get good fag

[Anonymous No.1895538]

>>1895369
You can crank up your retraction speed, get a tighter tube (Capricorn is genuinely the best) and print slightly hotter to reduce stringing.

[Anonymous No.1895560]

>looking though aliexpress
>find filament
anyone ordered any bulk filament from there?

[Anonymous No.1895561]

>>1895560
Ive tried alot of cheap filament from Amazon, but I still dont think Id trust anything from Gearbest/Banggood/Aliexpress.
Or Ebay.

[Anonymous No.1895587]

>>1894399
You are either impatient and dense or dense and impatient.

[Anonymous No.1895592]

>>1894592
My CR10 prints nylon. WTF are you doing?

[Anonymous No.1895597]

>>1895592
Did you add anything to it?
Ive wanted to do other materials with my CR-10 but I dont feel like adding the new hotend or extruder.

[Anonymous No.1895598]

>>1895592
Im in the south where we have 95% humidity every day. what I need is to filament box with desicant so it doesn't suck up as much water. Also for some CF and glass filled materials you really need a metal hotend

[Anonymous No.1895644]

>>1895538
I thought hotter is more stringing since it takes longer to cool outside the nozzle and follows the nozzle because it's not cleanly separated?

[Anonymous No.1895651]

can anyone recommend me a resin that comes out clear like glass? I have a project at work that requires some plastic parts, my plan is to let a friend print samples so I convinced my department to buy a professional sla-printer

[Anonymous No.1895655]

>>1895651
not a solution to your problem but when I need clear parts like that I 3d print the mold and then cast parts since those come out clearer than prints

[Anonymous No.1895659]

>>1894502
Thanks 3dpg. Just made my first benchy with the printer I was working on all weekend. Pretty happy with the results. I am getting a little fuzzing on hard edges but I think that's a problem with goop accumulating on the nozzle since it's always on one side.

[Anonymous No.1895660]

>>1891415
Oh wow I'm a fucking nigger and made a second thread on accident. Even searched up "3dpg" and found nothing in the catalog.

[Anonymous No.1895661]

>>1895598
Get some of those printdry vacuum tubs, shove a shitload of desiccant in them. It does an amazing job.

[Anonymous No.1895674]

>>1895655
That would be a solution too since it would require a 3d printer and would be cheaper than having it CNC'd. Which material are you using?

[Anonymous No.1895687]

>>1895651
>professional sla-printer
>recommend me a resin
You might be SOL, the fancier grade manufacturers usually want to lock you into their resins for ~quality assurance purposes~ and might not work with third-party resins

Which printer did you get?

[Anonymous No.1895723]

>>1895651
As already pointed out, you might be looking for nonexistium. Something that might work, though; take your resin part, dip it in acrylic floor sealer (pic related or your local equivalent), let dry. Old modelmaker's trick, takes out the imperfections in stuff like aircraft canopies.

[Anonymous No.1895925]

>>1895651
https://www.rshughes.com/p/Loctite-3D-3820-Ultra-Clear-Printing-Resin-Colorless-1-L-Bottle/079340_01304/

[Anonymous No.1895975]

I have a friend who is an actual wizard with this kind of thing, but his take on what is possible with 3d-printing is very different from what I encounter on the Internet.
We were talking about printing a dactyl case (>>1894703), and while every build log pretty much says
> if u have a 3d-printer just print the case le mayo
my friend said this is very hard to basically impossible with a normal printer and would require something like STL, arguing that overhangs like on the dactyl case just don't work. He's had 3d-printers for a long time, so maybe he's just used to old machines, but as I said before he's like a wizard and I respect his opinion a lot.

While I've perused the thread for a bit and printing is obviously not as straightforward as some people make it out to be, this is all very confusing. If someone could explain what I can reasonably expect to make from an entry-level printer, and what would be required for the case above (a $750 printer, apparently?), that would be much appreciated.

[Anonymous No.1895983]

>>1895975
I see no reason why you wouldnt be able to print that case on a $200 Ender 3.

[Anonymous No.1895984]

>>1895975
>>1895983
yeah, that looks easy and simple. it might need supports if it's just a hollow shell but if it's designed properly then a support structure is already designed into it.

[Anonymous No.1895987]

>>1895975
>and would require something like STL
STL is the file format used for objects that will be 3D printed. Did he maybe say SLA (i.e. resin printing)? SLA also needs supports to print overhangs. SLA's advantage is resolution, which a dactyl doesn't require, and a big limitation of SLA is size, which makes a dactyl case actually impossible to print on most resin printers.
A cheap machine like an ender can work great but it will need tuning, fiddling and maintenance. A $750 machine will "just werk" like that anon above said. However, I've printed a dmote with no issues on an ender 3 pro. A cheap machine is more of a hassle but "very hard to basically impossible" is a significant exaggeration.

>>1895984
Nope, it's designed like shit and doesn't come with supports. Cura tree supports work decently.

[Anonymous No.1895998]

>>1895983
>>1895984
>>1895987
Oops, yeah I meant SLA.
Thanks for your responses, I'm gonna call my friend a nigger next time I see him.

[Anonymous No.1896074]

>>1895587
I didn't even bother uploading a picture because some of the supports detached just from peeling the print off the build plate. I'm just gonna raise exposure time and try heavy supports. I raised contact diameter raised to 1mm and depth to .8mm

[Anonymous No.1896076]

I want to build a 3d printer that can do high resolution prints. Good enough such that I can print objects that are threaded and have them actually screw into each other.

The thing is I don't really know where to start with that. All the stuff i've built so far is cheap chinese kits.

I was thinking about building a hypercube but where can I go from there? Is a high quality printer high quality because the parts themselves are really nice? Is there anything I should be looking for when it comes to that sort of thing.

[Anonymous No.1896112]

>>1895348
>just a complaint
yeah sorry, I was just bitching. I sliced shit up and repolyied in meshmixer, scaling up the "ankles" and feet. I fixed the tail while I was at it. No problems until I was modding one pressing hard into it with the 3D pen.

[Anonymous No.1896114]

>>1896076
With careful care, even an ender 3 can print high quality high resolution parts. You'll just need to use a small nozzle, and make sure the frame is perfectly square, all the belts are tight, etc. Then comes tuning the printing parameters (extrusion, speed, temperature...) but that's a thing on all printers.

[Anonymous No.1896116]

>>1896076
I can print perfectly functional threaded parts on any of my printers, one of which is an old v1 Wanhao I3 Mini.

[Anonymous No.1896125]

>>1896076
this guy does that on an elegoo saturn. 12:18 in the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qIU5ZgUV9c0

[Anonymous No.1896135]

Hey guys is it safe to eat off of PLA?

[Anonymous No.1896141]

>>1896135
If you want to eat off of it or put it up your ass you should coat it with a food safe silicone or make a mold to pour silicone into

[Anonymous No.1896144]

>>1894971
Other than learning how2pic. Check your outter layer/inner layer ratios. I was having the same kind of problem. I found that I had my wall values way too high, and the other prints vr small. So it would print the inside alright, but when it got to the edges of the print it would just cum our massive globs of plastic, because it thought it needed to. Changed that number down to the regular layer height and it seemed to fix it.

[Anonymous No.1896146]

>>1896135
NO, 3D printing and food safe are anathema to each other. bacteria grows in the pours between prints and can be super nasty.

[Anonymous No.1896148]

>>1896146
>>1896141
it's only for my dog tho

[Anonymous No.1896149]

>>1896076
you type like a fag and your spacing is retarded

[Anonymous No.1896173]

>>1896148
If it's for doggo please buy them a stainless steel bowl. It's bacteria resistant, washable, and can take abuse. I would never give my doggos anything with plastic in it because I love them more than I do most relatives.

[Anonymous No.1896176]

>>1896148
>it's only for another living, breathing being that can also get sick tho
I don't know if you should be a pet owner

[Anonymous No.1896192]

>>1896173
>suggest anon put a stainless steel bowl up doggos butt
that's just cruel anon

[Anonymous No.1896198]

>>1896192
Take them to the vet, do not shove things in doggo

[Anonymous No.1896338]

>>1895975
I'll print the dactyl case soon-ish on my ender3, will post results here or on /mkg/

[Anonymous No.1896443]

New Thread
>>1896442

[Anonymous No.1896464]

>>1896443
>page 4
Give it like another week before making a new thread

[Anonymous No.1896581]

Sup my frens, what is the most useful thing you have ever printed? like, do you use it everyday or everyweek?

[Anonymous No.1896620]

Why so serious?

[Anonymous No.1896783]

>print a mini on fdm
Never again, came out decently, but the post processing was terrible and I spent almost as much time getting the supports off as I did printing it.

Also, 4chan is probably going to tilt my picture because I'm a filthy phone pleb.

[Anonymous No.1896812]

>>1896783
have you tried an overhang benchmark and minimizing where the supports are?

also, prusaslicer does have a cut feature. have you played with breaking the model into easier to print parts?

[Anonymous No.1896901]

>>1896812
It's not a huge deal to me that it came out meh. It was mostly just a test to see how small my printer could print and how detailed the most detailed settings worked.

[Anonymous No.1896913]

whats the best 3d printer for one of these

[Anonymous No.1896963]

>>1895138
What is this part for, exactly? Is it absolutely necessary for that ridge to be flat, or could you get away with redesigning for a 45° overhang? Alternatively, you could use the "touching buildplate" setting for supports to only do the bottom part, but it seems like a bit of a waste if that design element isn't all that critical.

[Anonymous No.1896971]

>>1894945
>before taking it to a professional shop like shapeways
Shapeways (largely) doesn't give a shit what your part looks like as long as it fits their requirements. Your part is perfectly printable by their standards.

[Anonymous No.1896993]

>>1896913
anything

[Anonymous No.1896998]

You need an ace in the hole and mines Harvey

[Anonymous No.1897270]

>>1896144
Oh thanks, overlooked your comment at first. I tried fixing it by using a extrusion multiplier in Marlin, which made it better, but it still fails.
My tablet won't make better photos, btw.

[Anonymous No.1897286]

>>1896913
one that can be operated without hands after you blow them off test firing that thing

[Anonymous No.1897402]

>>1896913
You can print all of it on a 200$ ender 3

Don't be a dumbass though, those can be incredibly illegal depending on the state.

[Anonymous No.1897419]

>>1897402
i would never break the law or print a dangerous weapon I was just curious
thank you friend

[Anonymous No.1897666]

2 questions:
When trying to print parts that need to be dimensionally accurate, do you need to put them on a raft to avoid the first layer being, well, the first layer that gets squished into the bed? Or is there some other trickery that can be used to get a more even first layer while still maintaining adhesion?

I love printing with a .8 nozzle because it goes almost as fast as the Nike store inventory during a riot, but obviously the finish is terrible. Of course then you just switch back to a .4 or whatever but then you have to retune the machine a bit, have a separate slice for the .4 nozzle, yada yada and it's just kind of annoying. Is it possible to get quality prints at higher resolution with a .8? Ie running it with the same settings as a point for like .2 height and .4 for width. And more importantly, does this increase the chance for failure because time and set up savings isn't worth it if it takes four days to have a successful 6 hour print due to repeated failure.

[Anonymous No.1897913]

>>1897666
>to avoid the first layer being, well, the first layer that gets squished
If you need greater than ~0.15mm accuracy with this, then you should either design around it to compensate for the squish (like people making chamfers for elephant foot), make it taller and post-process to the right height, or consider milling whatever it is instead. Rafts are kind of fucky to remove anyway.