/3DPG/

[Anonymous No.1884352]

Just Print More Snacks Edition
Old thread: >>1873583

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/43ZPzsET (embed)

>I have a printing issue, plz halp
Post the model of the printer
Post the type of filament being used
Post a photo of the print
Post the slicer you are using
Post temperatures and layer height (and other basic settings too)

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 4-7-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 Pro
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron, or Qidi X-One2/X-Smart/X-Maker
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: lulzbot is (mostly) dead
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Elegoo Mars

Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free for most users, that doesn't include (you).
Variants of Solidworks, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
http://www.autodesk.com/
http://www.solidworks.com/
http://www.openscad.org
http://www.freecadweb.org
http://www.blender.org/

Resins and their curing time.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1crvzMnt_8NJXAsABinoIhcOjE8l3h7s0L82Zlh1vkL8/htmlview?sle=true#gid=0

[Anonymous No.1884353]

Whoops, Old Thread: >>1878467

[Anonymous No.1884371]

>>1884352
Honourable mention for Anycubic i3 Mega S

[Anonymous No.1884391]

Getting started... Does it make sense to buy cleaning needles for the nozzle? 7.70€ for 10 pieces. Which replacement part should I have? Thermistor? ...

[Anonymous No.1884396]

Tfw when I made it into the OP

[Anonymous No.1884398]

anyone hit me up with Solidworks or AutoCAD sauce that works with win7, Rhino6 fuckin sucks (for a brainlet like me)

[Anonymous No.1884413]

>>1884398
just go freecad and linux? Win7 lost support in January you filthy boomer

[Anonymous No.1884416]

>>1884391
>>1884391
My ender 3 came with a needle and I've barely used it a couple times to clear a blocked nozzle, and even without one you could probably clear the blockage doing a cold pull (at around 90C). You can buy a 20 nozzle set for like 3 or 4€, so yeah, I never bother cleaning my nozzles once they get too dirty, just change them every month or two.
I've never had a thermistor go bad, but they're cheap enough to order a spare.
I mainly bought upgrades for my printer, like a glass bed, a probe, TL smoothers, and soon I'll get a silent board.

[Anonymous No.1884443]

I need to replace the controller on my CR10 with something where I can flash the firmware to set the nozzle temp higher. What's the best option? Getting an all metal hot end but stock board can't ask for max temp

[Anonymous No.1884490]

So, I want a small 3D printer, but I'm trying to go super budget on it. Like, under $100 budget. I found this diy set on robotdigg for about that, but I can't find any good reviews of it. It's an older model but I kind of like that is also includes a laser engraving bit. If it's any good that is, every time I try to search for it, it just leads back to robotdigg.

[Anonymous No.1884491]

>>1884490
You get exactly what you pay for. Dont spend below 150 unless you want a free headache along with your purchase. For small printers look into the Monoprice mini.

[Anonymous No.1884493]

>>1884491
Yeah, I was starting to suspect that would be the case. Alright, I won't risk it. Thanks.

[Anonymous No.1884513]

>>1884490
You can look into Youtube videos for reviews of small printers, but I wouldn't recommend buying one either. Though, it's better to waste 100$ than 200$, and I recall at least one of them being mentioned as something working within it's limits. Didn't watch the videos myself yet, however. I picked mine for good reasons for 260 Euros (in USD it's more like 300 or so), because I don't want to go through hell assembling a set one on my own.

[Anonymous No.1884545]

>>1884490
Same guy than >>1884513. You've made me curious. Yours might be like this one: https://youtu.be/f24oJnUFEPM which wasn't so bad 3 years ago. I recognized that it's actually build quite riggid from your picture. The build volume might not be a problem, dependent on what you want to do. Sanlanderer says that about another small one: https://youtu.be/ZU9RFNzeX04, another review: https://youtu.be/WbdlDR-tEfE
Here another small printer: https://youtu.be/M3SMUpNH_6I
I honestly start to consider getting something like the one you showed, at some point later as a backup, and won't just say no to anyone asking if I would recommend getting such a small one. The volume might still be interesting for a lot of people. However, it really needs to be compatible with common slicers.

[Anonymous No.1884577]

So I've got this problem and I'm not entirely sure what it is called and I have tried to look it up. Pic related; Red is wall, green is area in question, blue is nozzle travel.

So as the nozzle is filling in this flat area it goes in these diagonal patterns back and forth. When it gets near the wall it obviously turns around and starts the next line. My "problem" is that when it does the turn around it seems to me like it is either overextruding or the nozzle touches the previous line. In either case, the green area sorta "lifts up" or is scratchy/fuzzy to the point that the layer is now like a layer and a half.

[Anonymous No.1884633]

>>1884577
if it’s the first layer you’re talking about it means your nozzle is slightly too close causing excess filament to build up and overflow creating that rough/fuzzy pattern
also make sure your flow rate is calibrated

[Anonymous No.1884636]

>>1884633
I checked the steps after installing a new extruder so it sounds like my bed is off. Is ABL worth it or am I just retarded?

[Anonymous No.1884660]

>>1884636
depends, it does make printing far more hassle free. I’d try just backing up the babystepping by 0.05 until you notice an improvement . Really depends on what printer you have and wether or not it shipped with a warped bed

[Anonymous No.1884688]

>>1884352
>Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 Pro

[Anonymous No.1884702]

>>1884688
Is that picture a self-portrait of you, anon?

[Anonymous No.1884716]

>>1884688
literally got one for 210 + free shipping from the creality site. didn't come with a spool of filament though, so got some hatchbox from amazon. 235 including 1kg of hatchbox.
leveled the bed, and printed benchy. didn't bother calibrating anything else or sperging on "upgrades" before buying it. worked fine. No more hackerspaces for me.

[Anonymous No.1884717]

>>1884716
>>1884702
It's about OP not acknowledging any other printer other than that.

[Anonymous No.1884720]

>>1884717
Then mention that instead of just greentexting the price and name like a retard, retard. How are we supposed to know that's why you posted, and not because you were implying you can't find it for under 250 USD?

[Anonymous No.1884723]

>>1884717
>>1884720
ALLRIGHT YOU GOD DAMN FAGS I'M MAKING A NEW OP THEN

Jeesus christ you'd think making printer recommendations once a year would be enough.

[Anonymous No.1884724]

>>1884723
>you'd think making printer recommendations once a year would be enough
How would anyone think that? Would you do the same with PCs, mobile phones, etc? It's a new and evolving market, shit changes fast.

[Anonymous No.1884726]

>>1884724
I'm only doing it because some anons desperately want the AC Mega in there, but really, there's not much new in the sub-1000USD range that has gone through testing. I'm not even putting the Prusa Mini in there, it's not in consumer hands for long enough, and that's the case for many printers.

[Anonymous No.1884731]

>>1884352
Dear OP, I have made a new pastebin as an update to my last one in januari. If you would be so kind, would you use this and the hereunder placed ''new OP'' in future updates of this thread? Thank you very much.
Any proofreading on the part of you, anons, is also very much appreciated.

Old thread: >>1873583

All the info you need about 3D-printing: (CURRENTLY UPDATING PASTEBIN)

>I have a printing issue, plz halp
Post a photo of the print, the model of the printer, type of filament being used, the slicer you are using, and general slicer settings such as temperature, nozzle size, layer height, speeds, infill, etc.
Request without this information should be ignored.

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-series, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks, Fusion360, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, some /g/entoomen prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is your best bet.

[Anonymous No.1884738]

>>1884352 (OP)
Dear OP, I have made a new pastebin as an update to my last one in januari. If you would be so kind, would you use this and the hereunder placed ''new OP'' in future updates of this thread? Thank you very much.
Any proofreading on the part of you, anons, is also very much appreciated.

Old thread: >>1873583

All the info you need about 3D-printing: (CURRENTLY UPDATING PASTEBIN)

>I have a printing issue, plz halp
Post a photo of the print, the model of the printer, type of filament being used, the slicer you are using, and general slicer settings such as temperature, nozzle size, layer height, speeds, infill, etc.
Request without this information should be ignored.

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-series, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though. Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks, Fusion360, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, some /g/entoomen prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is your best bet.

[Anonymous No.1884741]

>>1884352
Third attempt: I have updated the OP. Please advise.

[Edition] Edition
Old thread: >>[Post number of previous thread]
All the info you need about 3D-printing: [Link to pastebin]

>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-series, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks, Fusion360, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, some /g/entoomen prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is your best bet.

[Anonymous No.1884747]

>>1884741
BEHOLD! The new pastebin!

https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

[Anonymous No.1884752]

>>1884416
Same for me with the nozzles. Before I upgraded to a titan aero (V6 system), cheap chinese nozzles were good enough and so cheap that I would just throw away nozzles when they had problems rather than try to clear them.

[Anonymous No.1884780]

>>1884443
Flash the one you have with a bootloader via adruino board then you can do whatever the fuck you want straight from the computah

[Anonymous No.1884826]

>>1884717
Then suggest one you nonce

[Anonymous No.1884863]

>>1884741
Thank you for including the Anycubic :3
It really is a nice machine with good value.
>>1884688
Don't be rude :<

[Anonymous No.1884988]

>get V6 hotend
>print PLA
>jams

Anons whyyyy
I'll mod my printer to Direct drive but it that doesnt fix....

[Anonymous No.1885021]

>>1884988
>Heat hotend
>Remove nozzle and heat break
>Insert nozzle ALL THE WAY
>Turn back one (ONE) turn
>Screw in heat break
>Snug up against nozzle
>Heat up hotend to 285 Celsius
>Tighten to one (ONE) Newtonmeter
There, it should stop jamming now, unless your extruder itself is garbage.

[Anonymous No.1885116]

I'm new to printing, don't even have my printer yet. Want to order nozzles, but thinking about getting a dual extrusion hotend while I'm at it: NF-Crazy TC-3
It doesn't mix, it's for two filaments. Any opinions on that?

[Anonymous No.1885127]

Got some work done im about 75% from being done I think.

[Anonymous No.1885133]

>>1884197 guy here
Tightening the x axis belt fixed the issue. Thanks everyone for the help.

[Anonymous No.1885137]

just doing some comparisons don't mind me.

[Anonymous No.1885164]

>>1885137
>printed that vertically
Should have printed it on it's edge and used supports, I know how strong the springs on a magazine are, especially once you start putting rounds in them.

[Anonymous No.1885171]

>>1885164
It's pla so it's just a meme, really. I just wanted to do something different so I decided to do that and shit post it in my FB chat with friends.

Other than that, printing it vertical was a horrible experience and the mag follower should not be printed with the bullet face on the bed because of the awful texture it makes. The base plate DOES NOT FIT the floor plate which is honestly concerning.

[Anonymous No.1885177]

>>1885171
If you designed it yourself, yes that is concerning. if you picked the STL off thingiverse not so much. If you get mad easily do not look at the STL files of what you print because 90% of the stuff I download the geometry is pure shit. The other 10% were made in openSCAD.

[Anonymous No.1885258]

>>1885021
Its not the gap between the nozzle and the heatbreak, its the PLA getting stuck in the heatbreak due to retracts / heatcreep.

Ill try a direct drive setup along with upgrading the cooling from stock 30mm to 40mm

[Anonymous No.1885328]

>>1885177
came from some /k/ download. I can't remember which one. oh I figured out that a little bit of sanding and it fits.

[Anonymous No.1885411]

>>1884352
been thinking about doing lost pla casting, but apparently its kind of a pain to burn it out of the mold and stuff. theres water soluble filaments, but i dont want it to start melting from the water in the investment. has anyone used wax filament or some kind of solvent soluble filament?

[Anonymous No.1885423]

So I was just given a non working i3 Mini from someone that was tired of fucking with it. Basically when you go to heat the hotend it gets to about 185 and then everything just freezes and starts cooling down, you have to power cycle it to get it to unfreeze.
Original owner replaced the thermistor. I already went over all the wiring and nothing seems burnt or fucked up. My only ideas are to flash the firmware and replace the heater cartridge if that doesnt work.
Anyone got any other ideas what might be up with this thing?

[Anonymous No.1885460]

noobfag here, is ABS bad to print in a room where you sleep?

[Anonymous No.1885462]

>>1885460
it's about as bad as coffee is good for you

[Anonymous No.1885465]

anyone fucked around with non planar printing in a serious capacity? Ie using it for actual prints you want not just test pieces

[Anonymous No.1885466]

>>1884352
Bottom left was only mentioned by someone, it wasn't made by someone in the thread.

[Anonymous No.1885470]

Oh shit, I didn't notice my pile of prototype iterations were in OP.

Might as well post the final.

[Anonymous No.1885490]

>>1885423
Updated the firmware to Wanhaos official 1.3 release for that printer, didnt fix the issue.
Never had an issue like this with a printer.

[Anonymous No.1885526]

>>1885411
I've done casting before, but trust me wax filament is expensive as fuck. I just did pla and then heated the mold until it was cherry red (assuming you use plaster and some filler) then waited for it to cool then blew out the mold with air in case any ash was left.
Wala, lost pla casting

[Anonymous No.1885527]

>>1885411
I have had zero problems with regular PLA, just ramp the pressure up slowly.

[Anonymous No.1885531]

>>1885411
PLA worked fine for me, pic related is cobalt chrome alloy cast at 900°C, so it's way beyond the minimum temperature needed for PLA.
When in doubt try transparent PLA without any pigment I guess.
>>1885527
Very very nice, I'd love to cast large functional printed parts like that some day.

[Anonymous No.1885533]

>>1884396
fag

[Anonymous No.1885557]

>>1885526
The word is voilà.

[Anonymous No.1885593]

>>1885533
c o p e
o
p
e

[Anonymous No.1885605]

>>1885557
Thanks, it was quite literally 4am when I posted that.

[Anonymous No.1885611]

>>1885557

Same thing, for all intensive purposes.

[Anonymous No.1885621]

Does anyone have experience with this? Thoughts?
https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/3673-prusa-enclosure-v2-mmu2s
I'm just about ready to shell out for two Lacks and some acrylate.

[Anonymous No.1885737]

Hi I have a really weird problem with my Anet a8.
it started with feeding problems (pic1) and now it won't extrude I keep hearing a clicking noise when I try. the feeding gear is in the correct position (pic2) and the nozzle is completely clean (pic3). Any help would be great I'm really close to trowing it away 120+ hours of fixing problems and I still can't print.

[Anonymous No.1885738]

>>1885737
2/3

[Anonymous No.1885739]

>>1885737
3/3

[Anonymous No.1885762]

>>1885423
Some sort of failed Hardware? Do they make aftermarket boards you could try to buy and plug in like they do with Ender's and stuff?

[Anonymous No.1885768]

>>1885526
Suppose that works, or I could just do sand casting even. Not overly concerned with the surface finish that's already going to be pretty bleh regardless

>>1885527
>just ramp the pressure up slowly
?

>>1885531
Alloyed with what? 900 seems kind of low for a steel. Either way I'm expecting my parts to be much larger so there will be more plastic to burn out and since I plan on using mostly aluminum I don't want to rely on it to burnout a giant chunk of plastic and still retain enough heat to flow without bubbles & soot and stuff getting trapped inside the casting

>>1885611
People like you are a Diamond dozen

[Anonymous No.1885769]

>>1885768
>>just ramp the pressure up slowly
>?
Temperature. DERPPPP

[Anonymous No.1885775]

>>1885769
Figured that's what you meant

[Anonymous No.1885808]

>>1885738
>disclaimer: don't know anything about the anet a8
clicking is due to missed steps; the motor can't turn when it's supposed to.
shouldn't be an issue with the gear being clean, the spring being weak, or too-frequent retractions.
you can push the filament through the entire extruder, right? how about when the nozzle is hot, can you push it through the nozzle? what temp do you print at & is it a larger-than-nozzle extrusion% or height? it might be trying to extrude more than it can for whatever reason.
filament tangle?

[Anonymous No.1885812]

>>1885738
>>1885739
Check the piece of tube inside the hotend Anet uses as a liner; mine burned & clogged maybe a month after I was up & running.

[Anonymous No.1885824]

The Ender 5 is less than a 100 bucks more than the 3 Pro. The better build, 5cm more vertical printing volume and other QoL improvements make it seem worth the price or am I missing something?

[Anonymous No.1885829]

>>1885824
Ender 5 is better at burning your house down too.

[Anonymous No.1885836]

>>1885127
You're getting good at this

[Anonymous No.1885847]

Using an ender 3 pro with cura. What's my best option for supports; general, custom, tree? I guess I answered my own question with custom supports, but best use of my time I'm leaning towards trees with the hopes that buildplate only will give enough support and be easy to clean up. My problem really isn't laziness for cleanup but being new, trying to remove these weird 5 layer high supports behind someones neck is taking up a lot of time and my hands aren't the most steady.

[Anonymous No.1885860]

>>1885847
This guy's video leads to very good support performance assuming you are on a mostly stock setup.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QaE7YPvh4E8

[Anonymous No.1885988]

ok /3DPG/, which infill pattern is the best?

[Anonymous No.1885994]

>>1885860
>open video
>dude narrating for the first few seconds
>this dude sounds like he's 14 or something
>Cut to shot of his face
>it's a fully grown bearded man
lol

[Anonymous No.1886020]

>>1885994
Dany is has good videos

[Anonymous No.1886039]

>>1885605
>i'm not incompetent, it was 4am's fault

[Anonymous No.1886069]

>>1885812
thank you I found the problem there was a dent in the tube(looks like from heat) preventing it from extruding

[Anonymous No.1886112]

>>1885127
damn, looks great

sauce on the figure?

[Anonymous No.1886291]

if I get an skr board, is it worth $43 for the dip version with 4 2209s vs the $28 standard version with directly soldered 2209s? I figure it could be better if a chip burns out, but how often really is that? or for future upgrading, but by the time some new miracle driver comes out I'd assume they would have many more board revisions and be specially made for those new drivers.

[Anonymous No.1886319]

>>1886291
its more like a one time purchase sort of thing, but the ability to rewire the drivers is important if you want to add a new or weird extruder. Usually the version that already fits in your printer is the best option.
never burned out a trinamic driver on my duet, even with high wattage stuff that can melt extruder motors.

[Anonymous No.1886322]

>>1884352
mildly curious if any of you know about this
>>>/tg/74311771

or what y'alls thoughts are on it?

maybe you guys have some recommendations, tips, or tricks for us over on /tg/?

[Anonymous No.1886329]

>>1886322
last time I was on /tg/ there was only a DIY/painting thread I used for nanachi. I can give some FDM tips like the best tree support and printing thin walls like wings, but it's probably best to use SLA printing.

[Anonymous No.1886344]

>>1886322
I'm not sure why that's not merged into /wip/

[Anonymous No.1886424]

>>1885988
Just grid.

[Anonymous No.1886425]

>>1886424
wrong, it's gyroid. covers more area with less percentage and looks better

runner-up is honeycomb because hexagons are rad

[Anonymous No.1886427]

>>1886425
Both gyroid and honeycomb are weaker and cost more time. Strength comes from shell thickness, not infill, anyways, so in terms of infill you just want the quickest possible. So, grid. Just grid.

[Anonymous No.1886445]

>>1885988
Min 7:30, 10% cubic: https://youtu.be/3kW9SnK4LKc

[Anonymous No.1886458]

I have uploaded a design on thingiverse 2 days ago and it's still not showing up in my profile or search. Only in my analytics page. Fuck this shit. We need an alternative

[Anonymous No.1886459]

>>1886458
Just host your shit on a neocities page or similar.

[Anonymous No.1886475]

>>1886459
It's safer dealing with commodities.

[Anonymous No.1886483]

All I want to do is 3d print a big titty bowsette model so I don't have to pay the nips 200 dollars for one

[Anonymous No.1886576]

>>1886483
Thingiverse?

[Anonymous No.1886645]

How often should you clean a lattice glass hot bed and with what?

[Anonymous No.1886646]

>>1886483
https://cults3d.com/en/search?q=Bowsette+

[Anonymous No.1886716]

>>1885127
sauce plz

[No good option after all No.1886722]

>>1884720
>t. newfag who doesn't know what a quote is

[Anonymous No.1886738]

how do I hide a 3d printer? Thinking of hollowing out some sort of appliance.
My apartment doesn't allow them.

[Anonymous No.1886744]

>>1886738
>My apartment doesn't allow them.
Why?
Also you could just build a like an end table to hide it in

[Anonymous No.1886749]

>>1886744
Maybe because of EnderFires:tm: ?

[Anonymous No.1886758]

>>1886749
I’m new I wasn’t aware that was a thing

[Anonymous No.1886788]

>>1886744
Fuck if I know. It's a school-owned apartment. "Just used the ones on campus" they say. Yeah well those are miscalibrated clogged POSes

[Anonymous No.1886807]

>>1886788
>buy old minifridge
>gut
>slap 3d printer in
gtg

[Anonymous No.1886824]

>>1886807
It would even work better for abs, since you get a heated enclosure.

[Anonymous No.1886871]

>>1886758
Don't worry, I'm just making up shit as well. Though there have been confirmed cases of chink printers starting fires, probably not creality ones, but still. I just wrote that ro make me feel better about splurging on a prusa mk3s. But that's still the only reasonable objection I can find for forbidding 3d printers wholesale.

[Anonymous No.1886880]

>>1886871
Is my chink made FLSUN Q5 gonna burn down my house?

[Anonymous No.1886898]

>>1886458
As much as people shit on it for... whatever reason, there's always the PrusaPrinters repository

[Anonymous No.1886901]

>>1886744
>>1886788
>school-owned apartment doesn't allow them
Damn. I remember when I was in uni I was pretty much the only one who had a 3D printer that wasn't one of the multimillion dollar machines and I could do whatever the fuck I wanted with it since there was no standards set for personal 3D printers.

fucking administrative overreach

[Anonymous No.1886939]

Any idea why my prints look like crap? I've been having problems with them consistently looking "melty", like the part that's facing towards the build platform is sagging towards it and blobbing up. These were printed upside down (top surface is on the build platform) and were supposed to be solid arcs, but there's a huge malformed gap here and in a couple of other places. I can't take any more pictures since I threw the part out already, unfortunately. The details that are present are pretty sharp so I'm puzzled why it "melts" in certain spots. Any ideas?

Printer's a Photon, non-S model.

[Anonymous No.1887033]

>>1886738
Just look at Youtube or somewhere for 3d printer enclosures. Sanlanderer has one made out of wood. Might be possible to make it look like furniture, with some extra work. Also get a quiet one.

[Anonymous No.1887037]

>>1886880
Make sure to have a small fire extinguisher (no powder!) and think about adding some separate sensors based on Arduino, heat and dust or so to your printer. It should use a battery, would be useless if it wouldn't work if there's a problem. There are also Arduino modules for WiFi or cellphone network. Make sure to get a message if something is going wrong and you're not at home. You could even turn the power off if something is outside of some boundaries to much. That's what I'm going to do. These incidents seem to be rare, and hoover boards and other stuff is also dangerous.

[Anonymous No.1887083]

>>1887037
octoprint with webcam and a thermal sensor or something tuned to trip an alarm if the area reaches a certain threshold (ie fire temp)

[Anonymous No.1887106]

>>1887037
I’m never running it when I’m not at home (not that I really leave anyways) and I work from home with it right next to me

I should pick up an extinguisher though

[Anonymous No.1887316]

>>1887083
Rig an extinguisher with a solenoid for that. Or just put it right beside it, so if it gets too bad it just explodes and releases it's contents all over everything.

[Anonymous No.1887323]

I can't stop making charger brackets.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4570670

[Anonymous No.1887385]

>>1885737
hey i have no clue about your printer but i had a similiar issue with the clicking noise
and it turned out my bowden tube was not fully inserted inside the nozzle (because the pressure adapter plug was broken it could not slide inside) the clicking noise came from filament at the extruder slipping through the gear
fixed the issue by changing the pressure plug and the tube (inserting it fully inside the hotend) i assume it was a combination of the initial tube being worn out and the filament melting outside of the nozzle /tube inside the pipe of the heatbrake/cooling part of the hotend

[Anonymous No.1887400]

Starting my mechE MS this semester. Taking this.
Don't know much about 3D printing, besides giving your Pastebin a read are there any other resources to look at to get prepared for a """grad-level""" 3D printing class?

[Anonymous No.1887403]

>>1887400
Most universities can't keep up with the rapid development, if you're already at an MSc level you can just take it easy with this kind of class. If you want, order the 3D Printing Handbook by 3DHubs, give it a quick once-through and you'll be fine.
t. Teaches AM courses in a Mech Eng BSc

[Anonymous No.1887406]

>>1887403
sounds good. It's an online course too (was like that pre-covid) so I can't imagine it's that involved.
My mechE MS is technically under the 'robotics' division of research but I plan to take a bunch of additive classes.

[Anonymous No.1887412]

>>1887083
I'm going to look for this foam based Mini Firefighter: https://youtu.be/Yp1M5JtLB8Y since the CO2 based ones seem to be very big and powder is out of question.

>>1887106
>>>1887037 (You)
>I’m never running it when I’m not at home (not that I really leave anyways)
Some prints take days. You may have someone going to shop for you, but you're sleeping? Or are you turning it off in a middle of a print then? Ah, 've got a hunch... Figurines... Well, other people print bigger stuff.

[Anonymous No.1887413]

>>1887406
>I plan to take a bunch of additive classes.
Personally, I'd advise againt this unless you're dead set on a job in this industry. It's rather niche and the knowledge you gain now it going to be outdated within a decade.

[Anonymous No.1887416]

>>1887400
here, read this: https://tams.informatik.uni-hamburg.de/publications/2018/MSc_Daniel_Ahlers.pdf

[Anonymous No.1887418]

>>1887416
>One single niche thesis is going to prepare that dude for a master's course in AMFG as a part of the design and manufacturing process
Yeah nah

[Anonymous No.1887419]

>>1887413
As opposed to current robotics not being outdated in a decade?

[Anonymous No.1887421]

>>1887418
who said only? i mean besides you.

[Anonymous No.1887423]

>>1887419
I'd think the fundamentals of robotics are much more developed and less subject to change than the fundamentals of 3D-printing. Could be just me though. Think of it in the context of manufacturing: milling, lathework, casting and such are all in a phase of evolutionary development, 3D-printing is still in a revolutionary phase where we have to sort out the good from the garbage to keep getting ahead.

[Anonymous No.1887425]

>>1887423
We've still got people confused as to why 3D printing works in space, apparently

[Anonymous No.1887429]

>>1887412
I have slept with it running but I do not leave while it’s printing since I’m disabled I don’t leave much anyways and if I need things I just have it delivered or have someone go get it for me. But I’d hope the fire detector in my room would wake me had something gone terribly wrong.

[Anonymous No.1887433]

>>1887403
The course I took was pretty much:
>this is printer
>this is printer settings
>this is how printer work
>we make stuff with printer
>printer take long time
Our final project was to make something that moved mechanically in 5cm or less. 2nd easiest class I took.

[Anonymous No.1887436]

>>1887433
Sounds like a glorified basics to 3D printing YouTube tutorial

[Anonymous No.1887442]

>>1887433
>>1887436
I can't help but feel a lot of the 3D printing "classes" that pop up these days in universities are solely to show the board of directors or whoever "look, we're keeping on top of current technology trends!" but end up being nothing more than you can learn from a week or two of youtube videos and a day or two of messing around with a printer

[Anonymous No.1887450]

>>1886880
Most firmwares nowadays have an aggressive policy wrt temperature sensor reading anomalies, and if anything unexpected happens, the firmware turns off all heating.

So unless your electronics burns (very unlikely) or your power supply burns (unlikely, but possible), or the wiring fails and short-circuits (likely, but probably will kill the PSU before starting fire) then you're safe.
(according to European Union standards household hi-power PSU must burn out inside housing in case it catches fire.)

Unexpected readings for marlin are at least: too high or too low reading (=sensor failed), when the heating is on: no temp raise within given time (=heater failed / heater or sensor detached), after reaching desired temp: more then x°C apart from the desired temp for more than n seconds (x and n are configurable, =heater failed / heater or sensor detached / PID parameters invalid).

I could bet that there are more fires caused by e.g., toasters than by 3d printers.

[Anonymous No.1887452]

>>1887400
Something to be aware of:
What you might by now know as FDM or FFF might be called FLM (Fused Layer Manufacturing) in academics. This is because one faggot decided to name it like this in his book and they keep parroting that shit.
Same for the term "Fabber" which supposedly means 3D-Printer for home use.

[Anonymous No.1887459]

>>1887323
That looked pointless until I noticed that was a wall not a table.

[Anonymous No.1887486]

How to vapor smooth PLA pls?

[Anonymous No.1887488]

>>1887486
You can't.

[Anonymous No.1887497]

>>1887450
That makes me feel safer

[Anonymous No.1887525]

>>1884988
Someone forgot to tune their PID settings.

[Anonymous No.1887534]

>>1887486
XTC-3D

[Anonymous No.1887729]

>>1887525
I didnt even know PID tuning was a thing with 3D printers until I got a machine qith a V6 like a week ago.
Educate me?

[Anonymous No.1887734]

>>1887486
Ethyl Acetate is said to work. I have never tried it, acetone free nail polish remover has it as the main ingredient

[Anonymous No.1887781]

[Anonymous No.1887783]

Is 3d printing something I'm going to spend $500+ on, use for a week to do the 3-4 things I wanna do with it, and then never use it again?

[Anonymous No.1887785]

>>1887783
yes if you can't into cad

[Anonymous No.1887786]

>>1887729
it's something that's implemented in firmware. my original marlin firmware from 2014 didn't have it so it was just bang bang control. When I updated to latest so I could have bed leveling, I had alot of tuning and thermal tweaks to make so it would stop freaking out about "failed heating" (taking to long to get hot) or "thermal runaway" (filaments runs or fan kicks on cooling the heat block too much making it think the thermsister fell out). I eventually adjusted the parameters enough in firmware so I didn't have to disable the safety feature all together.

Protip: wrap your nozzle in teflon tape to insulate it.

[Anonymous No.1887789]

>>1887783
I was worried about this, but we're months down the line and I use it at least once a week.
No regrets here, but like >>1887785, you're going to have to learn to design your own stuff.

[Anonymous No.1887808]

>>1887783
You shouldn't just "getting into 3d printing", but needing it as a tool for something else e.g. developing your own robots, drones, remote controlled cars, art or crafts, ... whatever. It has been called one of the most frustrating hobbies one can pick up, bc you might often not get out what you want and need to tweak or repair your printer. Yeah, CAD or forget it.

[Anonymous No.1887904]

>>1887729
>PID tuning
>Educate me
PID tuning is meme for 3d printers.
Don't care about PID tuning if your hotend 1) stays at the desired temperature 2) does not overheat upon reaching the desired temperature.

PID is basically an algorithm deciding when to turn on / off heating.
As an input it takes a dozens of samples how far from the desired temperature you are (and were, up to a couple of seconds ago).
It takes typically three tunable parameters that decide if (and how dense (PWM)) you need to heat. In short:
kP - decides that you should / should not heat when you're far from the desired temperature
kI - decides that you should start / stop heating when you already cooled down / heated for some time
kD - decides that you should start / stop heating when the readings quickly changed (e.g. you started extruding faster)
The problem with PID tuning (and autotuning) is that you typically need to start from good values to get better values, if you start from bad values it can even go worse. And good values are already fine for us.

[Anonymous No.1887934]

>>1887904
I PID tune for winter (when the AC draft is off) and save my values whenever I use a sock or use my needle nozzle
simply look at a graph with default heater PID values for your cartage, bang heating, and autotuned PID values and you can see how your entire argument breaks down if even a sight breeze from the cooling fan is on.
your "dont care if it doesn't change" idea ignores that it CONSTANTLY changes. Even in the middle of a single print, the cooling fan when close to the bed will have a significant difference in how fast heat is lost from the block compared to 15mm up the print. it's not the end of the world having a fluctuating or slow temp and you dont need a PID value for flat or tall prints, but finding an ideal value is required if you're using exotics or different nozzle types. It's important for calibration (not as important as retraction) and shouldn't be outright removed because (a certain retarded anon) has a dumb 8 bit board.
now for pid tuning a bed, I've never done that, you dont need a super precise temp there and constantly changing the high current bed on and off isnt helpful for your power supply and adding a glass top/insulation can reduce fluctuations if you have a draft.

[Anonymous No.1887947]

Is there a name for this kind of bed adhesion issue?

[Anonymous No.1887949]

I have the Ender 3 Pro, I want better accuracy and auto bed leveling. Shall I upgrade the printer or replace it?

[Anonymous No.1887956]

>>1887486
Tetrahydrofuran works also but you will probably die in the process too.

[Anonymous No.1887957]

>>1887947
If this happens, cleaning the bed with isopropyl helped me every time.

[Anonymous No.1887959]

>>1884352
>Ender 3 Pro
so my tax returns came and i want to invest parts of it into a hobby that helps with personal development, in this case running FEM simulations and printing them out accordingly. last time i asked about the ender3pro /3dpg/ told me that i should wait for a newer version that is coming out soonTM.
is that still the case or should i order a ender3pro today? what upgrades should i order with it?
i can remember that upgrade-springs and cooling for the controllerboard are good

[Anonymous No.1887985]

>>1887323
>that seam on the left though

[Anonymous No.1887999]

>>1887985
True, but didn't want to print again.

[Anonymous No.1888011]

>>1887957
Ok, but I'm asking if there's a name for it.

[Anonymous No.1888013]

>>1888011
I know. I dont know

[Anonymous No.1888039]

>>1887949
bl touch is $40-50 for a genuine or 10-20 for a knockoff, and is considered probably the best add-on abl system around for enders (the genuine ones at least). for accuracy it takes some slicer tuning (can't expect good accuracy at 200 mm/s) and the abl will take care of the rest. probably the next best printer with abl that isn't a guangzu special is the i3 which is a very good printer, about 750 bucks good in fact. so $400 more expensive than a 3 pro (which is known to make pretty good prints when tuned in) plus bl touch plus an skr main board for good measure. so is it worth it to you?

>>1887959
the cr6 is supposed to come out soon and have neat features like load cell auto bed leveling built into the extruder (vs a separate external probe), but is about $400 and won't ship for a few months and is probably backordered like crazy. go with the pro if you can't wait, but read up on the cr6 if you can. best upgrades are springs, skr mini 2.0 and bl touch imo.

[Anonymous No.1888053]

So is the CR6 the first printer Creality is funding through kickstarter, or have they done this before?

If yes, how well does this system work?

[Anonymous No.1888064]

>>1888053
according to the page yes it's the first time and apparently it's doing well enough that they've shipped review and early version kits to people and backers and the retail release is planned for this year in a month or 2 I think.

[Anonymous No.1888073]

anyone know how to convert a stereoscopic image (jps or mpo) into a 3d mesh? google only comes up with jps to jpg (literally just changing the file extension) mpo to jpg/jps (conversion which doesnt help me) and jpg to mesh (2d image ONLY to mesh, again not helpful). youd think this would be a simple task but apparently not.

[Anonymous No.1888074]

>>1888073
>youd think this would be a simple task
nope, anything but simple

[Anonymous No.1888075]

Far out I should've bought and assembled an ender 3 instead of the qidi X-maker.
Tempted to get one later and mod it so I can print with nylon.
The X-maker is pretty low maintenance though and comes with a nice enclosure for ABS, a nifty touchscreen and the ability to print via wifi.
But its print area is too small and it is too heavy for its size.
However a fully upgraded ender 3 would blow it out of the water and end up costing roughly the same with twice the print size, plus autoleveling.

How much upkeep is required to print with the ender 3?
I started with a portabee and it was in a constant state of disrepair, infuriating.

[Anonymous No.1888084]

>this print is goinG to take like 24 hours
>go to bed at like 70% or some shit
>wake up
>88%
>19hours or something like that
>see nozzle floating above the build
>nothing coming out
>looks like extruder got jammed somewhere
>19hours and a bunch of filament wasted
I wanna scream but at least I didn’t wake up to a spaghetti mess
It looks really good the part that did print

[Anonymous No.1888087]

>>1888084
Delta scum, you deserve this.

[Anonymous No.1888089]

>>1888087
Why do you hate deltas?

[Anonymous No.1888093]

>>1888074
clearly. where tthe fuck do i start then? youd think itd be easier than guessing out a heightmap for a 2d image because you literally have all of the data you need right there in the file.

[Anonymous No.1888282]

Do you need a heated bed for TPU?
Wanna try turning an old i3 mini v1 into my drone parts rig.

[Anonymous No.1888304]

>>1888084
Should have bought a Prusa

[Anonymous No.1888375]

>hot end might be clogged just printing strings, no adhesion.
I need to install a new hardened nozzle too, so this might be a push toward that.

[Anonymous No.1888381]

>first layer has adhesion problems
>subsequent layers show mashing/overextrusion

[Anonymous No.1888395]

simple ideas for making money with a 3d printer? would rather not sell dildos

[Anonymous No.1888419]

>>1888282
I turn my heated bed off and print tpu on painters tape.

[Anonymous No.1888436]

>>1888304
Literally the first time I’ve had any issues with my chink 3dp

[Anonymous No.1888437]

>>1888395
Sell dragon dildos

[Anonymous No.1888453]

>>1888395
sell cock cages

[Anonymous No.1888454]

>>1888395
Anal plugs obviously

[Anonymous No.1888475]

thanks guys these are great ideas

[Anonymous No.1888482]

>>1888475
No problem

[Anonymous No.1888534]

Hello my fellow /3dpg/ fags,

Which filament would be best to print and then leave exposed to the elements for a long time?

Other than nylon and polycarbonate, I don't have the setup to print those yet.

[Anonymous No.1888544]

>>1888534
petg can hold up in the sun and hot car dashboards

[Anonymous No.1888557]

>>1888544
what about longevity?

[Anonymous No.1888560]

>>1888557
petg is tough, I bet you could make a usable wrench out of it if you designed it correctly

[Anonymous No.1888572]

>>1888395
Whatever people want on your local Ebay thing. Vases with strong layers, sometimes with shiny metal looking filament, organic looking design stuff (topology optimization), maybe cheap gears and machine replacement parts, 3d puzzles, ... Basicly, look into best 3d prints videos and Makers Muse on YouTube.

[Anonymous No.1888616]

>>1888560
I meant in the elements. Like how long would it last if left in direct sunlight? Would it degrade quickly or could it be outside for years?

I have a guy who wants me to print him a custom emblem for his enclosed trailer side, but he wants it to last for a long time.

[Anonymous No.1888632]

>>1888616
I've had have a petg octopus dash ornament for 3 years and its still holding up
it can survive in the bare sun for a few years. Now my green plastic hasn't faded at all, but I bet some dyes cant hold up to the elements as well.
esun green petg circa late 2017 won't fade or warp in very hot weather. my car isn't in a garage and gets the texas sun all day. that petg is the only plastic that has been able to survive in my car for so long. my vape grips(and batteries rip), abs action cam mounts, and pla lab tools have all died or warped in that car, but the petg still stands.

[Anonymous No.1888666]

>>1888534
I printed tiny umbrella things out of PLA to cover the top of fence piping 2 years ago. There are still there, although i think they will break pretty easily.

[Anonymous No.1888675]

>>1888616
This entirely depends on where you live. Finland? Sure, point a magnifying glass at it. Arizona? Won't last 5 minutes in a closed car.

[Anonymous No.1888680]

>>1888039
thank yoy anon, I ordered the ender3pro with the upgrade board, instead of springs a friend recommended me silicon dampers which are said to hold their position better compared to springs.
will get the BL touch next

[Anonymous No.1888689]

>>1884352
Is it worth it to upgrade if I'm still using a Monoprice Maker Select from 2015? Some of the new features like auto bed leveling and print resume for power outages and running out of filament look very useful.

[Anonymous No.1888746]

>>1888534
petg

[Anonymous No.1888754]

>>1888616
>pet-g
>elements

PET-G has similar properties to PET, so take a plastic bottle as a reference.

Apart from PET-G you can consider ASA (material similar to ABS, but resistant to UV; in general a good replacement for ABS in 3d printing) or PMMA (acrylic glass). TPU is also durable, but obviously rubbery.

(ABS and HIPS get brittle due to UV, PLA jellies when hot, PVA dissolves.)

[Anonymous No.1888783]

>>1888084
>ed the head
rip he dead

[m00t No.1888789]

>>1885593
f a g g e t
a
g
g
e
t

[Anonymous No.1888833]

>>1888680
cool. I've been messing with mine non stop for the past 3 days and I have it dialed in pretty good, I would say the number one tip is to take the time to tune your slicer settings. Tuning in the standard .4 nozzle sped up the prints dramatically while still retaining quality and accuracy, and when I swapped to a .8 and tuned that in now I'm just ripping through prints with 90% of the quality and accuracy of my tuned .4 but in literally 2/3 to 1/2 the time. If you're doing functional prints that don't have to be pretty like me I recommend giving it a shot.

[Anonymous No.1888839]

>>1887400
read this book, it's also mentioned in the patebin:
>Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker
it's pretty comprehensive covering all the basics but without going too much into detail
it's fairly easy to read and will give you a good general understanding so you know the terminology

[Anonymous No.1888858]

>>1888783
I’ll reprint it with less infill
He will live again \m/

[Anonymous No.1888861]

>>1888858
>>1888783
Iron Maiden is literally glam rock, it fucking sucks

[Anonymous No.1888866]

Printer calibration guide:
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

>>1884416
> Nozzle cleaning kit
Yeah, the nozzles I buyed are more expensive (Artillery Titan clone, Volcano hotend, Mellow store for the nozzles). In the range of 2-7€ or ~3-9$. Didn't buy the cleaning needles anyways, hope I won't need it. I'll bought quite some nozzles, six or something like that, so I can buy some cleaning needle kit later, if needed. Found some nozzle cleaning tutorials anyways.

>>1888754
>ASA
UV light, but also very temp resistant, good for motor enclosures and such. Btw, ASA should have a printer enclosure.
https://youtu.be/M0tYr2JH_Do
https://youtu.be/faumlD5QNWk

[Anonymous No.1888930]

Those CR-30 kinematics look fucking neat, I wonder if it'll actually be practical or whether it's gonna be a total meme full of issues

[Anonymous No.1888960]

>>1884352
Hey OP, you still here?

[Anonymous No.1888970]

>>1888839
>>1887400
You can find it on libgen.
Needs a little bit of refreshing but its still the best book on AM.

[Anonymous No.1888985]

>>1888960

[Anonymous No.1888988]

what are some repositories besides thingaverse with free models? any request sites? I can't find a decently cute monkey anywhere. there are a dozen cute bears but all the monkeys are overdone see-hear-speak no evil or cartoonish to donkey kong levels.

[Anonymous No.1889031]

>>1888861
It is literally not

[Anonymous No.1889032]

>>1888988
https://www.myminifactory.com/search/?store=0&query=Cute+monkey

https://cults3d.com/en/search?only_free=true&q=Cute+monkey

[Anonymous No.1889046]

>>1888789
s e e t h e
e
e
t
h
e

[Anonymous No.1889126]

Functional 3d printing has always been my favorite part of the hobby.

[Anonymous No.1889131]

Anybody know the Ral color is of hiwin rails?
I want to reprint all my parts in dual extrusion of the same colors as the carriages.

[Anonymous No.1889156]

>>1889126
Functional stuff is the only reason I bought mine. That and prototyping, which is arguably functional.

[Anonymous No.1889158]

>>1889156
That helmet visor clip was the third one, so I had two prototypes that I had to throw out. They were not functional, but I understand where you're coming from.

[Anonymous No.1889166]

>>1889158
I want to get/make a filament recycling extruder because I go through so many revisions and updates to assemblies. Like for example:
I have a sub assembly that was printed, it works by itself, but relies on another assembly to do something after it does that move it does. The new assembly won't work within the constraints ive set, so now the new assembly needs to be changed and the previous one now needs to be updated to work and modified or reprinted.
And this is how you go through 20 spools in a month.

[Anonymous No.1889180]

>>1889166
lots of people have tried recycling filament but it never works out.
Filament is cheap.
It's a hard process to extrude consistently
Supposedly the material goes through some molecular changes as it's heated making it behave differently or something.

If I were to play around with plastic recycling, I'd do something more along the lines of what "precious plastics" does and melt/press plastics into a block or sheet for a subtraction manufacturing process.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NuYj4hDjKzU

[Anonymous No.1889216]

can a E3D v6 or volcano just drop into a CR10 V2 mount with no issue? looks like creality kind of ripped off e3d anyway.

[Anonymous No.1889252]

hey /3dpg/
new to 3d printing, own an ender 3 pro since i got one on sale
when i print things found from thingiverse (slicing using cura), my printer will print the first few layers in one spot, and then print the rest of the layers shifted over. i'm not sure if this is what the community refers to as "layer shifting" or not, because for me it's exclusively the first few layers, the rest of the print goes completely fine.

pic related. how can i fix this? it's happened on 3 prints now.

[Anonymous No.1889281]

hey /3DPG/. new to 3d printing, just got a prusa mini. need new filaments to print with that arent 50+ dollars, PLA or PETG. like to get some cool colors like tan and white but nothing weird or translucent. how should i be lubricating the axis? twist rod only or the guide rods too?

[Anonymous No.1889286]

>>1889252
layer shift is when a layer or layers get moved over a tiny tiny bit (less then a mm usually unless its bad) from the machine getting bumped, missed step, manually shoving the carriage over mid print for some reason, yada yada. what you have is some wonky ass setting or something specifically telling your printer to do that on purpose. if it was an accident and its moving over after several layers and then printing in the air the plastic would never ever adhere and youd just be making a bunch of spaghetti all over your bed. your you need to fuck with your settings and check your preview until you figure out what is doing that and it goes away, id guess its probably something auto generated like supports or some shit.

[Anonymous No.1889294]

>>1889281
amazon. common good quality kilo spools are +\- $25 (pla, petg, abs, asa, etc). good brands are hatchbox and snulu ive used personally, im ssure theres plenty others people will tell you. id start off with pla since its almost childs play to print. petg is easy too, but slower and might require some slicer tuning depending on what software you use and your specific machine. as for lube id imagine just throwing a thin layer of grease on the rods and screws, running the bearings up and down on them then wiping off the excess would suffice.

[Anonymous No.1889350]

>>1889252
You could try chep's profiles for cura. They're a pretty good place to start for fine tuning.

chepclub .com/cura-profiles.html

[Anonymous No.1889373]

>>1889180
I have a background with industrial extruders. Yes, the molecular chain is changed slightly when reusing certain plastics. The way to combat this in other materials is to use virgin material with the recycled so you get a mixture we used this 70/30 (reclaim/virgin) mixture for PET and it worked beautifully. The problem most extruders use is that they don't have forming dies that the hot malleable filament goes through after being extruded once again so you have variations in filament OD.

[Anonymous No.1889420]

>>1889166
I think it's possible and I would try it myself if I would have so much waste. I watched some vids on YT where it worked. Won't link, just search. They used some regular filament to mix it, if I recall correctly, like >>1889373 mentioned. However, if it's not for environmental reasons you'll need to calculate if it's worth it. Shredder, extruder, work, possible additional tweaking of the printer. I also assume that if you print a bit slow with high layers it won't be an issue if your filament is a bit uneven, so it might be working well for functional prints or prototypes.

On that note, anyone having an idea how these bulks of PLA or PETG from AliExpress are? For example from Anet? They sell PLA for ~14€ per kilo or even less. At which point will I only get total garbage? Planning to use it for prototyping with a big (hrdn steel) nozzle and huge layers, direct drive, Volcano, so clogging with dirt might not be a problem.

[Anonymous No.1889426]

>>1889350
i just tried these, it has the same issues unfortunately

[Anonymous No.1889432]

>>1889420
You quoted me twice, lol.

[Anonymous No.1889495]

>>1887486
You dumb fuck.
Really disappointed it took 5 replies and 2.5 days before somebody called this anon a dumb fuck.
4Chan is dead.

[Anonymous No.1889498]

>>1888395
porous condoms

[Anonymous No.1889503]

>>1889495
You gonna tell us why he's a dumb fuck or be all high-and-mighty about it?

[Anonymous No.1889504]

>>1889294
Half of the filament I have bought on Amazon is fake.

[Anonymous No.1889505]

>>1889420
Some of the Chinese bulks is high quality, some of it is trash. If somebody finds a good supplier,that would be valuable knowledge.

[Anonymous No.1889506]

>>1889504
>fake filament
Fake how? Not the material it was advertised? Amazon's the only place I ever get my filament from (excluding exotics) and I've never had any problems with it. Are you trying to get the super cheap stuff or something?

[Anonymous No.1889507]

>>1889373
>I have a background with industrial extruders.
Please regale us with stories

[Anonymous No.1889510]

>>1889506
It is often labeled as a major brand, but really is a cheap chinese knockoff that amazon can't get rid of. Most purchasers never know they are getting fake filament until they buy the real thing by chance or direct from manufacturer.
Occasionally the fake filament is still pretty good.

[Anonymous No.1889511]

>>1889506
The point remains though. If you are buying fake filament on amazon and it is pretty good, why not just buy the fake filament without branding on a chinese site like aliexpress for half the price?

[Anonymous No.1889514]

>>1889503
Did Reddit buy 4Chan sometime recently and I missed it?

[Anonymous No.1889518]

>>1889514
Sounds like a no, then

[Anonymous No.1889526]

>>1889518
What fun is this place if it has no edge?
Raise your expectations of what this place should be.

[Anonymous No.1889532]

>>1889526
>edge
Dude, this is a 3D printing thread on /diy/. The only people who try to be edgy here are retards, there's literally no reason for it. What do you get out of it? Some sense of moral superiority that you know how to make plastic squirted out a hot tube look better than some other fag can? Get over yourself.

[Anonymous No.1889537]

>>1889532
I can be bluntly honest and concise.
I don't have to be considerate of others feelings.
I don't have to coddle, hand hold or tolerate stupidity.
It toughens the other anons.
It saves a lot of time.

DIY should be open to honesty and the harsh truth.

[Anonymous No.1889538]

>>1889532
It also tells anons to do basic research before posting. This leads to more useful conversation.

[Anonymous No.1889546]

I guess this is just not that type of place anymore. Not willing to push the envelope or explore areas of high creativity. Good luck anon.

[Anonymous No.1889558]

>>1889538
You seem to have no grasp on the fact that this is a source of basic research for a lot of people.

[Anonymous No.1889576]

>>1889537
>oh no an actually helpful general on a blue board
>nobody calls others names
the harsh truth: you're the retard that stands out

[Anonymous No.1889617]

>>1884717
>wah, i didn't buy an ender 3

[Anonymous No.1889618]

>>1885127
coomer, you're getting better but your priming still sucks ass, get yourself sorted out, you could be so much more.

[Anonymous No.1889626]

When I print thin objects like a 7inch tall vasemode cylinder it works with no problem. But when I print something like a 7x7x0.5 inch block its slanted at like 15 degrees. What needs tuning?

[Anonymous No.1889639]

>>1889156
>Functional stuff is the only reason I bought mine. That and prototyping, which is arguably functional.

Based and same

[Anonymous No.1889655]

>>1889510
>,wow this store has $70 rolls of prusament for $20! what a steal!
>oh my God! this roll is fake! how could this happen!?

>>1889511
2 day shipping vs 2 months? the ability to return it? supporting your local billionaire and his wage slaves? (emphasis on slave)

[Anonymous No.1889657]

>>1889626
What is slanted, the base? The whole print?

[Anonymous No.1889682]

>>1889507
Okay, I've worked as a mechanical engineer for a blow molding company making bottles out of PET for Snapple, odwalla, generic liquor bottles, and some premium peanutbutter company. Preforms are injection molded and then stuck into the blowmolder. The company for blowmolder was Sidel, and Husky for injection molding preforms.

As an industrial mechanic, I've worked with continuous pellet production and continuous flow layering. Nordson were our machines for both. Carpet backing is our industry and we also export pellets to China so those beady eyed assholes can't steal our recipe.

I have stories for both, so just let me know what you want to hear about and I'll tell you anything.

[Anonymous No.1889712]

>>1889166
> I want to get/make a filament recycling extruder
A students club from material science at my university made one to experiment with filament recipes.
It's quite a challenge to build one that does it's job well, and, according to their words, it will definitely not pay itself off in a reasonable time.

>>1889420
> They sell PLA for ~14€ per kilo or even less
In Poland you can buy a basic PLA filament for about 50zł/kg (=11,4€) from a local auction portal. Nothing too fancy, but prints with no problems.
"Fancy" PLA/PET-G/ABS filaments start from 18€/kg, ASA is slightly more expensive.
I got some samples of presumably respectable filament manufacturers (zortrax and orbitech) and I could not tell them apart form those of 18€/kg.

>>1889626
> slanted at like 15 degrees.
You mean 15 degrees or 1.5 degrees? 15 degrees is fucking lots.
Start form checking whether your axis on the printer are perpendicular.
In case that's the problem and it cannot be fixed mechanically, check your firmware for suitable options.
E.g. Marlin has optional SKEW_CORRECTION and SKEW_CORRECTION_FOR_Z, which can be preset and can be controlled with M852
https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M852.html
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/blob/release-2.0.6/config/default/Configuration.h#L1411

[Anonymous No.1889731]

>>1889657
It grows diagonally instead of straight up. but in vase mode its perfectly perpendicular

[Anonymous No.1889760]

has anyone seen this kind of errors during ironing before ?
i am printing in PTEG the whole thing is a perfect smooth silky surface, except these spots where it looks like an abrasion (-_-)

its a case plate of about 12x6", so far printed like a charm :-/
nozzle temp is 225°C part cooling fan is at 20%
ironing speed 26mm/s ironing line spacing 0.1mm and flow is at 10%
does anyone have an idea what the cause could be ?

[Anonymous No.1889771]

I have a prusa mk2s that I use less and less, and I'm starting to desire a SLA printer. Should I sell the prusa and get a photon? How much should I list the prusa for? It's in perfect working order, nothing wrong with it.

[Anonymous No.1889773]

>>1889771
Keep it, resale ain't much and you'll lose all of the advantages of a good, name-brand FDM printer for practical prints.

[Anonymous No.1889780]

>>1889773
I'm seeing ebay resale at $585 + $60 shipping - I bought it as a kit for $650. I don't do a whole bunch of 3d printing anymore since all the initial projects I did when I bought it, and the projects I do want to do now are smaller and higher resolution. Is it really worth hanging onto just because it's high quality? Honestly I'm starting to fatigue from all the troubleshooting FDM requires when you don't print often (room too cold, PLA got moist, first layer curling, etc). Does SLA depend on so many factors being correct? I'm hoping it's more self contained and mindless

[Anonymous No.1889784]

>>1889682
cool, how much of that relies on being a chemical engineer or are you more of a mechanical guy who can understand plastics as a fluid?

what kind of projects do you do at home/as a hobby? Are you productive with your prints (functional/prototyping)?

[Anonymous No.1889797]

>>1889760
disregard, found a major error -_-
the bowden tube is slipping back and forth inside of the coupler at the extruder...
going to have to fix this first and try again with the ironing

[Anonymous No.1889798]

>>1889797
ender 3? You should print off those little fitting clips that jam the little collar to keep it in place to keep the tube locked. And then go online and order some new ones cuz they're dirt cheap.

[Anonymous No.1889825]

>>1889798
CR10V2, it has these little lock rings, the outer piece of the coupling doesnt move, but the tube does (marked it with a pen) already had to replace the coupling at the other end of the tube before, because the little metal spring/clamp thing inside was without function
i guess its the same issue with this one, still have some replacements from creality not going to bother with ordering replacements, i guess i am going to look into a direct drive extruder/hotend setup instead maybe printing a OEM direct drive mod in the meantime

[Anonymous No.1889833]

>>1889825
yeah I don't know why creality can't source a pushlock to save their lives. normally it happens because the little teeth in the fitting that are supposed to grip the tube get bent or broken off. luckily the ones on my e3p are rock solid so apparently I got lucky. I wouldn't buy new ones from them I'd get a known good aftermarket one, should only be a dollar or two, but if you're going to do direct drive anyway then I wouldn't bother

[Anonymous No.1889845]

>>1889833
push-lock fittings, even the nice ones, do not hold up to continual push-pull cycling as it wears out the retaining cleats. I've seen other printers solve this issue by just printing little horse-shoe-shaped washers to shove under the release ring of the fitting.

[Anonymous No.1889847]

>>1889845
And that's exactly what was mentioned

[Anonymous No.1889849]

>>1889845
Also, the tubing used for bowden tubing is also way below the intended hardness threshold for the fittings as well. The cleats digging into the tubing eventually bends them further than they were ever expected to survive.
Soft tubing like PTFE would usually only be used with barbed or compression style fittings.

[Anonymous No.1889897]

>>1889784
bit of both, you have to know certain things like the chemical makeup of fillers and how they interact with certain materials, etc.

Right now I am in the middle of making a reloading machine from scratch. rip primers and bullets tho. My goal is for it to do about 3000/hr of .223 with a quick (2 hour) change over to 9mm.

[Anonymous No.1889900]

>>1889784
just let me know if you want horror or funny stories of both.

[Anonymous No.1889910]

>>1889897
It shouldn't be that hard for someone like you to design a progressive die system to form primers and casings using a homemade hydraulic setup (not a bottle jack on a frame, and actual motor driven hydraulic system). Hardest part I think would be acquiring enough material cheap enough to make it worth it and then the initial forming stage of properly creating the cups before they go into the dies.

[Anonymous No.1889921]

>>1888689
I would say it depends on how much trouble it's giving you. I just ordered a prusa after having a maker select for a couple years. I finally got fed up with the leveling issues as my carriage had warped at some point and I'm just making do so far. The recovery from power loss, quiet operation, and bed leveling are like the three big selling points that sold me.

Seems to just come down to personal taste if the extra money seems worth it to you.

[Anonymous No.1889950]

>>1889910
it's not hard. Timing and pressure is the hardest part to get right. It's going to be air driven because I have a 3 phase rotary screw air compressor just lying around being useless.

[Anonymous No.1889960]

>>1889897
>>1889950
fuck, I'd buy you a beer to chat with ya. You have a blog or youtube channel or anything? I hope you share your progress with that.

[Anonymous No.1889968]

>>1889960
Nah, I don't like to put my face or anything out there because I have a bunch of priors from being a little shit when I was younger.

[Anonymous No.1889988]

[Anonymous No.1889989]

>>1889950
pneumatics seem like the absolute worst choice for a multi ton pressing system, unless you have something slick in mind

[Anonymous No.1889997]

>>1889989
multi-ton? the average reloading press is hand operated.

[Anonymous No.1890022]

>>1889997
Never mind, I completely misunderstood what you were saying in your other post and went from there

[Anonymous No.1890026]

>>1889968
If AVE or This Old Tony can do it, I don't see that being an issue. I wouldn't want my face out there either. Anyway, good luck and I hope you share your progress, or even concept drawing of how you'd go about that.

>>1889989
>>1889997
yeah, the only thing requiring strength are the dies which size and crimp brass anyway.

[Anonymous No.1890118]

>>1889988
i wanna fuck it

[Anonymous No.1890128]

>>1889558
Reddit already runs that type of customer service board for lazy retards. Why not go there if that is what you are looking for? It would be a safe space for you.

[Anonymous No.1890133]

>>1889655
kek.
Amazon's business model

[Anonymous No.1890140]

>>1889960
>>1889682
He's ours. He stays here, anons! We will never let him leave!

[Anonymous No.1890142]

>>1890118
We all do

[Anonymous No.1890143]

>>1889780
There are other issues to deal with for SLA. Both are useful. Good to have one of each.

[Anonymous No.1890147]

>>1889900
Both

[Anonymous No.1890247]

3D printing: raising a child, but worse
Every day I have to tune this motherfucker

[Anonymous No.1890285]

>>1890147
horror stories first, then.

>get call from work that I need to be there NOW
>why?
>get there and the entire pellet extruder is being taken apart.
>polymer is pouring out of every nook and cranny
>polymer had traveled up the pellet pipe and gotten into the dryer and completely stopped the motor and burnt it out.
>over 300k in damage
>how and why did this happen?
>operator kept turning off the alarm that told him that there was an issue with the pellet cutter
>So, instead of cutting the strings the extruder extrudes out it wasn't working and tangled up the dryer causing the motor to burn out
>so everything piled up and solidified in the pipes
>operator wasn't fired in the end

>walking through the pellet compounding section
>hear a guy screaming and flailing on the ground desperately trying to splash water on his face
>run the fuck over and spray his face down with a garden hose
>air pocket had caused a bubble to pop when he was purging the system and caught his face and shoulder
>company is fined by OSHA for not having eye wash station and shower close by
>company pays for all of his skin grafts and medical bills
>guy still works there

>2nd week I was in plant
>get finished with preventative maintenance on backing extruder
>walk about 10 feet from extruder
>start bs'ing with other maintenance guys.
>blue lightning starts shooting from the melt pump area I was just working on
>I just stand there mesmerized as all the other guys start yelling to turn the power off
>(power has to be on if you are messing with certain things or else thermal expansion will make it impossible to move them)
>one of the electricians informs me that I am lucky because 480v would have roasted me.

[Anonymous No.1890301]

>>1890285

>Working in the pellet extruder section again
>notice polymer leaking from one extruder zone
>engineer waves it off as not important "we need production"
>try to tell him if it gets too bad it will fuck shit up
>doesn't listen
>week goes by and now the polymer has encompassed all of the wiring, motors, cooling piping, and machine guarding
>its fucked bro
>engineer wants it all cleaned up by the end of the day he wants to go to Florida this weekend
>fuck you
>go to boss and his boss about this shit
>they are absolutely LIVID
>they stuff multiple pineapples up his ass about this
>it's all hands on deck to get the polymer out and fix the leak
>just cut through all the polymer and everything it had swallowed up because it's easier to replace than it is to chisel it out.
>probably 1 million to fix
>bosses tell me that no matter what this doesn't happen again
>I have full authority to overrule ANY management in the plant on the matter of extruder condition now.
>tfw they hire dumbasses like engineerguy, but I don't have enough experience for their liking.
I can't wait to give this place the middle finger, honestly.

[Anonymous No.1890309]

>>1890301
>>1890285
>engineer intern for plastic bottle manufacturer
>a screw from a guard is lost into a tote full of preforms
>the entire tote must be gone through to find it as we are a food grade manufacturer
>I suggest just using a metal detector for hunting coins or whatever
>plant manager tells me, "That's not professional"
>takes days, it's never found
>Whole tote of 3000 preforms is thrown out just in case
>why?

Honestly, I hated that company. They were dying and rightfully so. They lost their ONLY contract and the location lost 3/4 of their staff. Who thought it would have been a good idea to base their entire business on one contract? The plant manager. I swear, trying to deal with the level of stupidity and stubbornness was just exhausting.

[Anonymous No.1890316]

>>1890285
>>1890301
relatable, sometimes it's operators who can't fucking clean their work space, and somethings it's engineers and management who don't think it's important or want to spend the money.
But it's always maintenance who is stuck eating the shit to fix it, with or without contractor involvement. Also safety cucks who 1. don't understand equipment and 2. make up restrictions to justify their own existence no matter how ironic/idiotic.

Glad to have gotten "fired" due to covid but I've been contemplating if I can make a living running a small shop between 3D printing and some CNC and manual machining.

Has anyone around here actually made any money off their printer? I imagine the CAD work is probably half the worth.

[Anonymous No.1890331]

>>1890316
I'm in the merchant tier for a lot of DnD miniature patreons and make a pretty penny selling prints to people who can't into 3D printing

I also make people's characters with ripped and cleaned assets from FFXIV at about $15 per miniature

[Anonymous No.1890338]

>printing in FDM

[Anonymous No.1890345]

>>1890301
>I have full authority to overrule ANY management in the plant on the matter of extruder condition now.
Feels nice though, doesn't it? I'm pretty much in a position of being able to say "That's stupid, you're wrong, and by the way, fuck you" to just about anybody in the company with anything concerning 3D printers and their (mis)use.

>>1890309
>that's not professional
Fuck anybody who says this, honestly. "Unprofessional" my ass, if it fixes a problem, do it.

[Anonymous No.1890359]

>>1890338
>>1889988
>>>/toy/

[Anonymous No.1890398]

I haven't needed to buy glass since my first 3D printer which came with it several years ago. I need to get a new piece for a different printer. What's the best place to get one online? I can't go to a store physically.

[Anonymous No.1890421]

>>1890309
Maybe you can fill a niche from one of these factories that is closing down due to incompetence?

I have begun to make small amounts, but have a couple of big projects in the works.

Has anyone found a good/cheap manual desktop injection molding machine with a decent capacity? Or will I be stuck building my own to get something decent at a reasonable price?

[Anonymous No.1890425]

>>1890359
>>>>/sextoy/

[Anonymous No.1890485]

>>1890247
should have bought a prusa

[Anonymous No.1890502]

>>1890316
>contemplating if I can make a living running a small shop between 3D printing and some CNC and manual machining.
Sure.
>Has anyone around here actually made any money off their printer? I imagine the CAD work is probably half the worth.
Yes I make a considerable amount doing it, though I have a specific niche with very little competition. And the majority of my sales are for the bulk hardware needed for others to reproduce my designs with their own printers.
And you're correct, CAD work is central as people are really only going to be interested in what you produce if it's designed well and documented equally well. Designing your own things also means you don't have to deal with licensing IP from others.

[Anonymous No.1890503]

>>1888960
sorry was in the shower

[Anonymous No.1890553]

Didn't someone here ask me about importing files to Solvespace, and I thought DXF files would work? Well, now that I checked: They don't. The best way to edit STL files isn't importing them to a CAD progamm, maybe by going through some other format like DLX, but really using some mesh editor.

[Anonymous No.1890590]

>pic related arrived
>built it with upgrade parts right away
>already rammed nozzle into the glass bed leaving scratches in the coating
weak start and downhill from here
I'll order the BL touch asap, trying to level a bed that slightly tips into 3 different directions seem like a headache, will watch some tutorials on it later tho. its my first printer

[Anonymous No.1890606]

I live right beside a micro center and they have inland filaments for cheaper than I can get on amazon. anyone used them?

[Anonymous No.1890610]

>>1890590
I started with the magnet mat just because I didn't wanna fuck up the glass right away, good thing too cuz the mat has all sorts of scratches and pock marks. however once you finally get it dialed in it basically never moves and you don't have to worry about it. bl touch still makes it even more accurate of course. I just did the paper method going around and around the 4 corners until it was all basically exactly the same and then used a bed leveling concentric square model to make sure the layers were even and proper, after wards I haven't had to touch it once no matter how many times I pull off and replace the mat. I think it helps I printed some little detent things that hold the knobs in place and let you move them in discreet increments Rather than just some random amount at a time.

[Anonymous No.1890612]

>>1890590
Forgot to make it more clear that I used the paper method to get it close and then I was live adjusting using the concentric squares until everything was basically perfect.
Just make sure your bed and hotend are heated because thermal expansion will throw everything off if you try to dial it in while cold and also make sure your Gantry is Rock Solid because it can sag from The Carriage moving over to the unsupported side without the Z screw. I just went ahead and pushed it down so it's at an angle but won't go down any further and dial it in from there, yeah it's crooked but with the bed leveled to it really doesn't matter and won't sag any further and cause issues.

[Anonymous No.1890613]

>>1890606
>anyone used them?
Their PLA is just okay. I've seen far worse. Sometimes pretty inconsistent color wise.
Their ABS is really crappy though.

[Anonymous No.1890614]

>>1890613
what about their tpu and petg?

[Anonymous No.1890659]

>>1890614
I don't have much positive experience printing with PETG, so I can't offer any input. Same deal with TPU.
Inland is just average or below average in terms of filament quality. Last I heard most of what they sell is sub-tolerance eSun filament.

[Anonymous No.1890716]

>>1890398
AliExpress has been good for me. Make sure you order w/ ePacket if you're in NA.

[Anonymous No.1890753]

>>1890590
>spend what feels like an hour leveling the bed
>finally at a precision i'd like it to be
>want to calibrate extruder
>doesnt feed, just clicks back and forth
when idling it slightly vibrates and gets warm, swapped cable from other motor, works flawlessly - i guess mobo is kill
>>1890610
>>1890612
thanks anon, i did it with a sheet of paper and a piece of film which was even thinner, i wish i could print a piece today

[Anonymous No.1890784]

>>1890502
>documented equally well.
expound

[Anonymous No.1890786]

> bought 3KG of black PETG plastic
feels good

[Anonymous No.1890788]

>>1890316
>Has anyone around here actually made any money off their printer?

I make about $400/month with a slightly upgraded Ender3 selling junk on Etsy. The trick is to have a good IDEA then design it yourself, print them yourself, and market them yourself. For me, I find firearms related stuff sells really well on Facebook and Rick & Morty characters sell well on Instagram.
I struggled with pricing a little at first. It’s hard to know just how much people are willing to pay. But if it takes 16 hours to print or an hour to assemble/paint I haven’t had an issue selling models at ~$30 each for a good idea. Dumb models or useless junk I can’t sell for $5.

[Anonymous No.1890794]

>>1890716
We should create a document of suppliers from aliiexpress that are reliable. We could understand which chink suppliers to trust if we create a sort of "social credit system" if you will.

[Anonymous No.1890868]

I watched some shitty videos in the past and now youtube keeps recommending me teaching tech (and sometimes maker's muse). Tell me what to think about them
Like if I see a video that looks relevant, do they tend to have accurate and useful info, or is it just parroting basic entry level stuff that may or may not even be the best way to do things, just for clickbaiting ad revenue? I'm not experience enough to tell what can be trusted and what should be given independent research

[Anonymous No.1890877]

>>1890868
Maker’s Muse, Thomas Sanladerer(spelling?), and CNCkitchen are fantastic. I would avoid the teaching tech guy. The sheer volume of products he shills and the low quality of advice he gives make me not trust any of his content.

[Anonymous No.1890919]

>>1890877
Teaching Tech is all right if you just go with the how to's, other videos like it when he reviews printers or upgrades yeah it's pretty meh. Probably cuz with the how to all he's doing is just narrating the documentation.
> is X upgrade worth it?
> so I printed this test piece, installed X upgrade and tuned it then printed this one
> so does this actually do the thing better as it claims?
> I can't really tell a difference
> okay thanks for watching bye
Sick review, thanks bro

[Anonymous No.1890954]

Do you guys mess with custom start or end gcode scripts?

I added a few lines for loading my bed leveling mesh and probing the bed. I was thinking about added something to retract my filament at the end of the print so it doesn't glob up on the nozzle and harden but wasn't sure why that isn't already a thing cause I doubt I'm the only one who sees that as a problem.

[Anonymous No.1891020]

how close to the bed should my extruder begin printing at? it's nearly engraving into the glass. my printer is an E3P and no matter what bed leveling technique I use, it's always either way too high or way too low for my prints. is there a setting I need to change in cura or something?

[Anonymous No.1891024]

>>1891020
your nozzle height should be .004 thou/ .1mm or the thickness of a piece of printer paper.

[Anonymous No.1891035]

>>1891024
i just realized i wasn't using "auto home" before calibrating that distance with paper
fuck im retarded

[Anonymous No.1891047]

>>1890877
>starts by recommending the worst two possible

[Anonymous No.1891048]

>>1891020
Your slicer should tell you what height it wants the first layer at.

[Anonymous No.1891060]

>>1891047
>Thomas Sanladerer
>worst
Get fucked. I learned a shitload from that guy and he doesn’t recommend anything that isn’t great quality.

[Anonymous No.1891078]

>>1890716
Can't wait months for it to arrive, I need it within the next week or maybe two.

[Anonymous No.1891081]

>>1891020
>>1891048
I set mine with the paper gap but found myself increasing the offset manually a little more with M851. I also increased my first layer width and I think that helped a bit.

>>1890877
>>1891060
Yeah, Tom and CNC kitchen are good. haven't watched much from muse.

[Anonymous No.1891089]

>posting if this hasn't already been posted before.

https://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2020/04/30/us-army-3d-polymer/

[Anonymous No.1891090]

>>1891089
I think at the point where you have a drawing machine, you probably can afford something that takes a polycarb core and adds ABS around it like they do for e.g. wires or other bimaterial filament-like materials

[Anonymous No.1891095]

>>1891090
yeah, I just think it's neat to see the tech advancing so quickly. next thing you know we'll have pretty decent ceramics and composites being printed like it's nothing.

[Anonymous No.1891106]

>>1891089
>>1891090
hehehe, or just print your own filament

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3aUGmfnmIg

[Anonymous No.1891114]

>using cura and ender 3
>opening gcode is m140 and m104
>aka heat bed/nozzle without waiting
m190 and m109 are heat and wait for specified temp
>still waits for bed temp to start up extruder, then waits for extruder to start homing and probing
>same deal with stock board and with skr 2.0 w/ Marlin 2.0
why the shit won't the commands work as intended instead of waiting 5 minutes to start like m190/m109?

[Anonymous No.1891120]

>>1891095
I say this as someone working with a ceramic resin right now, that shit is a fucking pain in the ass. Maybe ours is weird and unique but from what I've seen, if you want anything that's not just decorative pieces, it's going to be a ridiculous endeavor.

[Anonymous No.1891148]

How in the fuck do you tell when resin is cured? I've used 3 different types now and I can never get the resin smell to go away. I know some people say it's when they don't feel tacky anymore but even if they're fresh off the build plate if you clean them well enough they're not tacky in the first place.

[Anonymous No.1891157]

https://youtu.be/qo_J57U6DO4 there's a fly in this guy's house I cant stop noticing

[Anonymous No.1891159]

I FUCKING HATE THIS PIECE OF SHIT

[Anonymous No.1891163]

>>1891159
Cya tomorrow

[Anonymous No.1891164]

>>1891114
ok I figured it out, for some dumbass reason cura automatically adds a m104 then m109 right after followed by an m140 then m109 BEFORE the configurable start gcode... which also contains an m104 and m109 by default. basically the no wait heating commands are useless because theres immediately a wait for heat after each one, and I can't seem to stop cura from adding it to the start of literally every file automatically. and then adding the same heating commands to the start gcode (technically the 2nd start or after start I guess) is baffling, maybe to make you think you can edit it? what in the cunt kind of shitty software is this? how the fuck do I turn this idiocy off?

[Anonymous No.1891228]

>>1891157
I saw that white knight printer after the developer of it commented on a a Thomas Sanladerer video. That is a real genius design concept.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6SrN2qW1Hw

[Anonymous No.1891235]

>>1891228
I cant wait for a mass-produced version (cheap parts), if there is just the belt parts, can someone please link, I have a compatible reprap frame I designed and can adapt some angled brackets for it.

[Anonymous No.1891265]

>>1891235
What's hard about a belt? The hard part is a 45 degree head. If you need some inspiration look for normal belt conveyors.

They typically have take up bearings for belt tension, 2 rollers, 2 side supports, and sometimes a piece of sheet metal that the belt rides on. Super simple.

[Anonymous No.1891267]

>>1891089

[Anonymous No.1891271]

>>1891265
Heating, tensioning while keeping level, gears, and strong mounts are required.

[Anonymous No.1891310]

>>1891235
Creality is coming out with a 45 degree belt printer hopefully this year. The white knight guy has videos of his test sample.

I bought a bl touch and micro swiss hot end for my cr-10s. The bl touch came with pic related. Is that all the hardware I need to update the firmware?

[Anonymous No.1891325]

>>1891310
That should be all you need, but I wasn't able to flash with progisp. It might have been user error, but I've also seen some posts that some of the BLTouch kits come with dud ISPs. I ended up bricking my Ender 3 with their ISP, but I fixed it with an Arduino I had laying around.

[Anonymous No.1891413]

>>1890784
Assembly instructions. Bill of materials. And even then the intermittent hand-holding of particularly dim customers.

[Anonymous No.1891416]

New Thread
>>1891415

[Anonymous No.1892716]

>>1889252
Do you have
>settings > bed adhesion > raft
Turned on?

[Anonymous No.1892764]

>>1892716
i didn't when I printed this, no. i do now

[Anonymous No.1892821]

>>1891413
By that you mean most