/3DPG/

[Anonymous No.1878467]

This Means Something, This Is Important Edition
Old thread: >>1873583

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/43ZPzsET (embed)

>I have a printing issue, plz halp
Post the model of the printer
Post the type of filament being used
Post a photo of the print
Post the slicer you are using
Post temperatures and layer height (and other basic settings too)

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 4-7-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 Pro
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron, or Qidi X-One2/X-Smart/X-Maker
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: lulzbot is (mostly) dead
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Elegoo Mars

Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free for most users, that doesn't include (you).
Variants of Solidworks, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
http://www.autodesk.com/
http://www.solidworks.com/
http://www.openscad.org
http://www.freecadweb.org
http://www.blender.org/

Resins and their curing time.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1crvzMnt_8NJXAsABinoIhcOjE8l3h7s0L82Zlh1vkL8/htmlview?sle=true#gid=0

[Anonymous No.1878476]

>>1878467
>Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 Pro
Anycubic i3 Mega S
Thanks OP for including it the last time.

[Anonymous No.1878480]

>>1878476
This OP is some anti Creality Ender sperg, thanks for adding it on the first post.

[Anonymous No.1878512]

>>1878476
>>1878480
Wait, so I included the Chiron in the OP, but because I didn't mention the slightly more finicky Mega over the Ender, I'm an anti-AC sperg? Well thanks then.

[Anonymous No.1878513]

Hey guys, I'm thinking of getting into 3D printing my own minis with a Resin printer b/c quality.

Would AnyCubic's Photon Zero be a good starter, for printing player characters for D&D and stuff?

Pic related: my baby yoda, based on a 3D print from a bro.

[Anonymous No.1878524]

>>1878513
Spend just a little bit more anon, and avoid the zero.

[Anonymous No.1878530]

Now I just need to model the grips,figure out how to break it into parts so I can print without supports, and then put it all together.

[Anonymous No.1878536]

>>1878512
Nah, just wanted to say thanks for mentioning the i3 last time :)

[Anonymous No.1878563]

>>1878512

How is the Chiron anyway, does that hugeass bed cause any problems with print quality?

[Anonymous No.1878576]

>>1878563
Not really if you print slowly enough. Filling up big printers like that doesn't come from pure hotend speed, it comes from a big fat nozzle with a big fat layer height. Eventually the heating capacity of your hotend becomes the limit, and I haven't gotten the 24V unit in the Chiron to crap out yet. If you want small, detailed prints, get a resin printer, or mount a small nozzle and print really slowly.

[Anonymous No.1878591]

So what's the deal with 3D Scanning apps and Android? Either they're absolute garbage, exclusive to shit phones, or nickle and dime you charging you for every scan.

Am I just retarded or is there nothing good?

[Anonymous No.1878594]

I'm going to buy a Sidewinder Genius or maybe a Sidewinder X1, the first is smaller (midsize) but 80 Euros cheaper. I think this might be enough, since I'll assemble stuff anyways. What to do with more space, except vases? I mean, 30x30x40cm is a lot. Any opinions?
Good vid on volume: https://youtu.be/5Mm4-TbUefA

[Anonymous No.1878608]

>>1878591
Take images/videos and use a pc to do sfm.
VisualSfm is a good sw to do just that.

[Anonymous No.1878609]

>>1878594
In my opinion you can never have enough build volume. I bought my Chiron (400x400mm) and a week later I got a request for a 450x450mm print that could have paid for my printer. Ah well. I'd buy the X1 anyways, 30x30 is a good size.
Most of the vid you posted boils down to the slicer cucking you to not hit the endstops. On your particular printer, you may get much closer by going into the slicer's hardware settings and adjusting the actual build volume.

[Anonymous No.1878631]

>>1878608
>Structure From Motion

Oh. This was 4chan I thought you were talking about Source Film Maker (Porn) and was confused as fuck until I googled VisualSfm.

[Anonymous No.1878648]

>>1878609
Okay, thanks for the advice. What big part do people want? Didn't plan to use it commercially anyways, just wondering. 30x30x40 is a large printer, bigger than many which were sold the last few years.

[Anonymous No.1878655]

>>1878524
Much appreciated anon! Is there even any advantage to the Zero over the old 'normal' Photon, other than a 50 bucks decrease in price?

Makes going for the S less of a jump, as well

[Anonymous No.1878660]

>>1878655
No, its a piece of plastic shit.

[Anonymous No.1878663]

Hah my barbarian print made it into the OP before that paintlet

[Anonymous No.1878665]

>>1878660
Would the Photon S qualify as a lesser piece of shit too?

[Anonymous No.1878883]

>>1878665
Do you even know why you want to do resin printing? Maybe you've told that in the old thread? There's a load of review videos on Youtube...
https://youtu.be/SfJER81di4U

[Anonymous No.1878932]

>>1878609
Is printing further away from the center taking longer on a small printer, compared to print the same object on a bigger printer?

[Anonymous No.1878935]

>>1878665

The S is more or less a normal Photon, but made of cheap plastic, and the yellow windows are "cosmetic" and don't block UV light. Either get the proven old Photon, or wait for the new Mono 2K that's coming out in a week or so.

The Zero is worse in every way - the screen is small and low-res, so the build volume is tiny and the prints come out blocky. It's such a waste of time, the only reason they made it is to cater to cheapskate customers.

[Anonymous No.1878948]

>>1878648
>What big part do people want?
In my case somebody wanted a compressor tube for a windtunnel, seamlessly printed of course.
Reprap has standardises a 220x220mm build plate, and it seems 90% of all printed objects fit in there. 95-99% will fit on a 300x300mm build plate, I think it's a goldilocks size where you can print big without an overly heavy bed.

>>1878932
Should take about as long, if not less, because accelerations and speeds can be higher on a smaller printer (given the same kinematics, etc.).

[Anonymous No.1878953]

>>1878948
>without an overly heavy bed.
Just use a delta or corexy

[Anonymous No.1878960]

>>1878513
you know you can get much better quality than that if your bro got his printer set up right? but yeah, if you want to print minis then resin is the better bet for sure.

[Anonymous No.1878964]

>>1878953
>Delta
Garbage.

>CoreXY
Granted but not as common as i3 kinematics. Yet? Idk. Some of my students are working on a huge volume printer (a few cubic meters) and coreXY wasn't an optimal choice in every single regard. Especially on the smaller scale (200x200mm) there's a decent chunk of cost savings to be found in the i3/Ender 3 style of kinematics, and if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

[Anonymous No.1878966]

[Anonymous No.1878968]

>>1878964
Literally what is wrong with delta

[Anonymous No.1878977]

>>1878968
Extra computing power required, awkward build volume shape, allergic to any kind of hotend mass, scales very poorly, accuracy becomes worse the farther you go from zero, manual leveling is impossible and the combination of auto leveling and distance inaccuracy results in bad accuracy overall.

Garbage.

[Anonymous No.1878997]

>>1878977
>bad scaling
>largest repraps are kossels
retarded poster that doesent understand that the reason why cheap deltas are shit is due to the low torque and lists only the symptoms of the larger issue.
you can buy good deltas in the midange, but anything less than 400 will be garbage due to driver cost. you cant compare an A8 to a cr-10 and claim everything is shit.

[Anonymous No.1879000]

Thoughts on the EPAX X1? It looks like a solid SLA without dumping out your wallet for a Form 3 or Prusa SL1.

[Anonymous No.1879004]

>>1878997
>>largest repraps are kossels
OG Kossel is only 170x240. The biggest delta I've seen working decently was an AC Predator, which is only 370x450. In the back of this picture you can see a T3000, which is 1000x1450mm, and it most definitely not a cheap delta, nor does it lack torque with it's Nema 32's, nor does it use cheap drivers. The only delta's i'd recommend would be as small as possible, because they really are allergic to hotend mass and the smaller the better. The AC Kossel seems like a decent fit, especially with it's linear rails, but it uses the same crap autoleveling module that comes with all of those AC units. Then again, what does that thing do that an Ender can't? A bit of speed? Who cares, fit a bigger nozzle and off you go.

[Anonymous No.1879019]

>>1878968
The resolution of the print area varies within the circle so that the space where the drive resolve is identical is actually more of a triangle. The lack of manual leveling is a real big hangup for me personally, and a lot of Delta printer models do automatic leveling pretty badly.

[Anonymous No.1879026]

>>1878964
pic related is god tier frame/kinematics design

[Anonymous No.1879028]

>>1879004
>what appears to be a fairly high budget / high proficiency / lots of time put into car
>no aero
Even our shoe string budget ducktaped together car has aero, I wonder if we'd beat you.

[Anonymous No.1879030]

>>1879028
>fairly high budget / high proficiency / lots of time put into car
No, no, no and no. Cheap car developed way too hastily by people without project management skills and then without continuation or documentation. That thing isn't even gonna drive under it's own power anymore - a great example of a 3D-printed monocoque (first of it's kind), but a terrible example of project management.

[Anonymous No.1879040]

>>1879030
It has to be high budget at the very least? I see a lot of expensive looking thingies, what's the approximate yearly budget on that thing?
>3D-printed monocoque
you mean a monocoque mold, right? or what?
Also, what the heck is up with the design of that tube portion at the rear, doesn't look too good.

[Anonymous No.1879047]

>>1879040
>It has to be high budget at the very least?
Not compared to the big teams like Eindhoven and Zurich.
>I see a lot of expensive looking thingies, what's the approximate yearly budget on that thing?
Looks expensive, sure. Nobody knows the budget, only one teacher, and he keeps the students out of the finances with a religious fervor.

>you mean a monocoque mold, right? or what?
No, the main monocoque structure was 3D-printed and then laminated with CF. The ''mold'' is within the CF.

>Also, what the heck is up with the design of that tube portion at the rear, doesn't look too good.
It isn't too good. Scrutineers had a field day with that one - one of the reasons it'll never drive.

[Anonymous No.1879048]

>>1879000
I have it. I have never had a catastrophic failure like blocks of resin with it, and the autoleveling is the fucking best. American support too, I ripped the gasket on an FEP change and they sent me a free one. just don't strip the screws. if you cheap out on a refurbished old version, get the parallel light mod

[Anonymous No.1879049]

How would you orient something like this character's hair to print in an SLA printer?
Would parts so thin even survive printing/washing/curing?

>>1879048
>>1878966
Why is your surface quality so bad? Is that the paint or the print itself?

[Anonymous No.1879054]

>>1879049
the hair comes apart into strands

[Anonymous No.1879065]

Could you PLEASE stop with that miniature gay shit?
Thank you

[Anonymous No.1879080]

>>1879049
Mix of paint, spray primer temp issues, and shoddy brusbs . apparently AP paints are not baller af

[Anonymous No.1879094]

>>1879065
they're not miniatures, they're decorations that can be used as miniatures

[Anonymous No.1879115]

>>1879048

>STL

[Anonymous No.1879124]

Why is the CR10 SUCH a fucking piece of shit I just dont understand
Its unreal how much time I have spent trying to level/tram the bed this shit still wont fucking work like its supposed to. I have bought new nozzles, IKEA mirror for bed still fucking nothing. Im so pissed off about myself that I didnt just save a little bit more and get a Prusa MK3
I have had this piece of shit of a printer for a month and I have nothing to show for it because this shit doesnt work like its supposed to
I hope china gets a new wave of covid and all of the fuckers who work at creality and sell their shit printers die a nasty, painful death

[Anonymous No.1879139]

>>1879048
now, do the emperor of mankind.

[Anonymous No.1879146]

>>1879124
huh? I just bought a CR10 V2 and I have had nothing but praises for this awesome machine. Maybe you got a lemon. what are you experiencing?

[Anonymous No.1879154]

>>1879146
No matter how hard I try the bed wont level perfectly, I have spent many days after work trying to get it to work but its just impossible. I have checked every guide there is on youtube/google/whatever and I cant get it perfect, its almost as if the aluminium bed is warped.
Secondly no matter how many times I try to calibrate the e-steps it never stays correct so it always over/under extrudes
There are more issues but those two are the main ones

[Anonymous No.1879173]

>>1879065
this, printing dollies is not /diy/
you losers need to fuck off and make your own general on >>>/toy/

[Anonymous No.1879175]

>>1879154
Did you sand it? Sometimes the bed need sanding

[Anonymous No.1879178]

What settings does /3dpg/ use for PLA+? Spool goes to 230, but that seems too much for PLA. Suggestions?

[Anonymous No.1879182]

>>1879178
Just do a temp tower, every spool is different even the same brand and material. Mine all generally end up at 205

[Anonymous No.1879205]

>>1879175
What, the IKEA mirror? No I havent sanded it, I dont see a reason to sand it as adhesion isnt the issue, the bed is just warped or something.
I have been levelling it for too long for the results to be so shit. It prints perfect at some places yet its too far/too close at other places so the first layer is always smushed or has gaps somewhere
Its just such a time waste and Im regretting every decision I have made which lead me to buying it

[Anonymous No.1879226]

>>1879173
>>1879065

Let the weebs play with their dolls, it's only like 10-15% of the thread

[Anonymous No.1879270]

>>1879124
Did you use a dial indicator and a feeler gauge?
Old article, 2016: https://www.baldengineer.com/3d-printer-tips.html

[Anonymous No.1879497]

What are good brands of filament? I just bought a Prusa MK3S and got a spool of this to get started: Prusament PLA Mystic Green

[Anonymous No.1879508]

>>1879497
Hatchbox has been good to me so far and cheap too.

[Anonymous No.1879509]

>>1879497
Seconding Hatchbox, when you can get your hands on it

[Anonymous No.1879510]

Anyone had any issues with wood filament? I was thinking of buying some and making some neat things.

[Anonymous No.1879515]

Is there a good source of rpg miniature STLs?
I can't find a lot of 40k stuff

[Anonymous No.1879520]

>>1879508
>>1879509
Thanks lads, I'll get my hands on a spool and give it a try.

[Anonymous No.1879541]

>>1878663
>implying I wasn't already in the OP

[Anonymous No.1879551]

>>1878663
>that gap between the abdomen and hips

did you fail the "how to glue" test in kindergarten?

[Anonymous No.1879575]

i see the suggested software, but what software do you prefer to use anon?

[Anonymous No.1879597]

>>1879575
superslicer >>>>>>>>>>

[Anonymous No.1879602]

>>1879575
Prusaslicer works fine for me
Simplfiy3D sucks dicks

[Anonymous No.1879673]

>>1879047
>No, the main monocoque structure was 3D-printed and then laminated with CF. The ''mold'' is within the CF.
I don't get why you would do this, was it at least crazy thin? because as far as I know any sort of plastic in a CF monocoque is probably just wasted weight, though I guess it could act as the core in a sort of sandwich panel if it's printed with low infill.

[Anonymous No.1879674]

>>1879575
prusaslicer works best so far

[Anonymous No.1879676]

>>1879673
>though I guess it could act as the core in a sort of sandwich panel if it's printed with low infill.
That was exactly the point. Something like 10-15% infill gave you a preformed sandwihc panel.

[Anonymous No.1879683]

>>1879676
Alright I guess that makes sense then, what sort of infill did you use? something that aligns well with the surfaces normal, right? And what about filament, what did you use?

[Anonymous No.1879684]

What's /3dpg/ working on? Personally, I'm making the Sleeper Stimulant from Destiny 2, the walls in my bedroom are a little barren and I think it'd look cool mounted on the wall.

[Anonymous No.1879689]

>>1879683
Production of the v1 monocoque wasn't my job, but it was done with 10-15% honeycomb infill done in Rhino. Filament doesn't matter (the core contributes very little to the strengh), iirc it was some fancy stuff still in NDA. Can't find it for sale right now.

Finally, aero doesn't matter as much as you'd think if the core mechanics behind the car suck. In my opinion you're better off with four weeks of testing than four weeks of aero development, especially as a starting team.

[Anonymous No.1879699]

Uploaded my first Thing bros.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4562127/files

[Anonymous No.1879728]

hi my anet a8 kit came with a slipping extruder, is this a good one or chinezium crap?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32959248637.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.66fa3170WzVJvP&algo_pvid=f706af28-ff79-49c2-b0f6-2a9e5e2486f2&algo_expid=f706af28-ff79-49c2-b0f6-2a9e5e2486f2-8&btsid=0b0a187915966343584744857e77e0&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

[Anonymous No.1879729]

>>1879699
dont most battery chargers have holes in the back to mount on the wall with screws?
did you just design and print something that makes more holes in the wall than the piece its supposed to fix?

[Anonymous No.1879732]

>>1879729
The thing by itself is NOT mountable.

[Anonymous No.1879757]

I need help setting up my printer to get some proper prints done.

I have an Anet A6 printer that I setup, got a shoddy test print and haven't touched since. Filament was Tecnofactorum black PLA 1.75mm. The printer itself is fine and all parts are stock except for a piece of glass I put on top of the bed on the last attempt. I've been getting frustrated with trying to get it to worka I know there's resources to do this but I don't know what to try or how to manage the frustration of trying and failing and feeling like I'm going in circles.

I mostly need someone to point me at what to do, I know my way around electronics so I don't need help with the actual fixing I just don't know where to start.

File related.

[Anonymous No.1879759]

>>1879757
i dont understand, you mention multiple times that you are having problems but not once you mention what the problem is. then you post a picture of the printer and not the shoddy print itself which means your post is utterly useless
god i wish i could kill you

[Anonymous No.1879760]

Any suggestions on what material I can use to fill hollow parts?

PU resin is expensive and I'm worried about the heat produced.
Casting resin is cheaper but I'm afraid of it destoying the part when expanding
Sand is a neat idea, fill hollow with sand then cork it. Haven't tried it though.

[Anonymous No.1879761]

>>1879760
>casting resin
*Casting foam

[Anonymous No.1879764]

>>1879732
if its not mountable then it's not designed or type tested to be mounted. chargers need passive cooling and this one includes active air cooling of the battery which you are potentially impeding. what tests have you performed to make sure the charger is safe and efficient in this configuration? do your plastic brackets meet sufficient flammability standards? printing for yourself is one thing sharing them is quite another, i'm not trying to dig you up anon you just need to look out for yourself, nobody else will.

[Anonymous No.1879765]

>>1879759
I did the print like a year ago. Whenever I've tried after that I can't get the filament to stick.

[Anonymous No.1879768]

>>1879764
>do your plastic brackets meet sufficient flammability standards?
Does the table you normally put it on? The house around it?

[Anonymous No.1879791]

>>1879765
level your bed

[Anonymous No.1879793]

>>1879760
I use Gypsum, you can seal the surface of the visible part with any liquid glue once it dried, Gypsum just soaks it up.
You can probably also use printer photo-polymer, let the Gypsum soak it up and UV cure it, sounds plausible but I haven't tried that yet.
Just don't get Gypsum with massive expansion properties.

[Anonymous No.1879802]

where do I get access to a 3D scanner capable of "casting" a child's hand? specifically I'd be begging for a free scan for the purposes of making a prosthetic. I know my dentist has shit for teeth and one anon with that sort of equipment lurks here. Where else could I ask?

[Anonymous No.1879805]

>>1879768
i'm not trying to incur liability by distributing the design of where i put my chargers against manufacturer instruction

[Anonymous No.1879806]

>>1879802
Just use a contour gauge and some graph paper.

[Anonymous No.1879807]

>>1879757
I do not understand your problem at all.
Try to explain once more and post a picture of the shoddy print.

[Anonymous No.1879823]

>>1879515
This
Thingiverse a shit for 40k

[Anonymous No.1879830]

>>1879764
It's just a pretty thing strip around the charger and the bottom is against a surface at all times anyway
>>1879699
at my workplace we just have those ziptied to a wall but i guess that's a bit neater

[Anonymous No.1879944]

>>1879764
don't do that. you were doing so good and you went full retard to try to be right.

>>1879732
>>1879830
bruh, you need to post a pic of the back of your charger. because I'm pretty sure you've also being retarded.

[Anonymous No.1879948]

>>1879823
Try myminifactory. Also is anyone sharing paid stls anywhere?

[Anonymous No.1879953]

>>1879944
Say what retard?

[Anonymous No.1879954]

>>1879806
scaling a photo is even better, but you're totally missing the point. No matter the information you're using you still have to model it in 3D space. I could cast the child's hand it it would just give me a better (stationary) substitute to measure, I'd still have to put it in 3D space.

plus it sounds better.

[Anonymous No.1879961]

>>1879953
jfc bosch is fucking stupid. why would you buy something with such an obvious design flaw? also apparently it's a really common problem with bosch chargers so your thing will no doubt be as useful as the other 5 versions already on thingaverse.

[Anonymous No.1879963]

>>1879961
Hah, I printed that and it was too large.

Anything else?

[Anonymous No.1879967]

>>1879760
it would be cool if the printer could print fill in an infinite array of options, but I guess you're stuck with playground sand and school glue.

but at least print some fucking caps for the feet if you are going to fill your thing.

[Anonymous No.1879970]

>>1879760
Print with a tall, excess bottom edge, use casting foam and leave it open so excess has a way out other than breaking, cut/sand down the spillage and bottom edge, then >>1879967

[Anonymous No.1879971]

>>1879963
it would be a lot slicker if you hid the screws underneath and could clip the charger in and out without getting another tool, but who am I to judge, my charger came with screw mounting already included. While you're at it consider that you're just randomly jamming machine screws into drywall with no possibility of hitting more than the accidental stud. I'm sure that will work out long term as you repeatedly swap batteries.

[Anonymous No.1879972]

>>1879971
>drywall
bookcase

[Anonymous No.1879986]

>>1879972
ah, then go wild I guess. why would you consider different applications when designing something? just go "fuck it" and assume everyone has a board. the "I don't give a fuck every mount is a screw slot!" is a nice touch for the design aesthetic too. have cad will design I guess.

[Anonymous No.1879997]

>>1879757
Just put some wood glue on your glass if nothing else works. Yes it fucking hard to to get the print of afterwards but everything always sticks.

[Anonymous No.1879998]

hi my anet a8 kit came with a slipping extruder, is this a good one or chinezium crap?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32959248637.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.66fa3170WzVJvP&algo_pvid=f706af28-ff79-49c2-b0f6-2a9e5e2486f2&algo_expid=f706af28-ff79-49c2-b0f6-2a9e5e2486f2-8&btsid=0b0a187915966343584744857e77e0&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

[Anonymous No.1880011]

>>1879998
Stop wasting your money and time on garbage chinkshit, just buy pic related.

[Anonymous No.1880028]

>>1879967
you retard, you utter fucking spaz.
Does your resin-sniffing brain not understand that sand/glue/whatever is cheaper and denser than resin?
>>1879970
thanks buddy, still I've seen a video of a guy who did it with a prop and it ended up ruining the corners so I'd be careful with it

[Anonymous No.1880039]

>>1880011
Mine arrived today. Incidentally, I tried at first to buy a Triangle labs BMG clone, which took longer than the aliexpress refund period so I thought it was gone forever. I ordered a hemera when it came back in stock. Both showed up this week (I thought I got chinked, but turns out I ended up on the better end of this than Zhang), I'm going to be mounting my hemera on my FT-6 hopefully by this weekend. I'll be using the plated copper volcano heater block and nozzle from Triangle labs but everything else will be the e3d stuff for the Hemera. Now I just need to figure out how to get the free BMG onto my i3 clone...

[Anonymous No.1880080]

>just had my first issues
>1st few layers started warping
>releveled bed
Hopefully no more issues. These prints have to be fairly dimensionally accurate.

[Anonymous No.1880085]

Someone has the Sidewinder Genius? What do you think about the z-roller adjustment? It seems to be a plastic spring and some disassembly is necessary to get to it.

[Anonymous No.1880093]

[Anonymous No.1880120]

>>1878467
Anyone have experience building stuff like the fgc-9?
I have no experience 3d printing, and am wondering if I can get buy with buying the Ender 3 without upgrading the machine itself to build it

[Anonymous No.1880122]

>>1879805
>incur liability by distributing design
Not that guy but all bets are off, he didn't guarantee it to be safe nor is he selling it, he's got zero liability if some dumbfuck downloads it, makes it, and sets it on fire

[Anonymous No.1880123]

>>1879760
RTV silicone. Decently heavy, non-expanding, doesn't generate (much or any) heat when curing, non reactive.

[Anonymous No.1880248]

>>1880123
smells like cat piss

[Anonymous No.1880255]

Which spool dehydrator are you using?

[Anonymous No.1880260]

>>1879986
How about you gfys.

[Anonymous No.1880277]

>>1880248
If your silicone smells like that, something's extremely wrong with your batch, or your nose.

[Anonymous No.1880278]

Hey guys, I have access to an artillery sidewinder x1, and I'm trying to make something "nice" for a friend (a mayan death whistle) that looks really, really nice on the outside. What are the highest quality settings I can really fuck with?

This was printed at .1mm layer height at 40mm/s with esun white PLA. If I slow down the print to 20mm/s, will I get rid of this layer "banding" that I'm seeing? I'd just like it to be smooth, and there are small features that I fear might go away if I sand it.

[Anonymous No.1880279]

>>1880278
You won't get rid of the banding, but your prints will generally look better the slower you print (until you go so slow that the nozzle heats the part, deforming it as it prints)

[Anonymous No.1880284]

>>1880279
What's that speed around? Do I need to just fuck with settings?
Why can't I get rid of that banding? I can lower the layer height, right?

[Anonymous No.1880288]

>>1880284
>what's that speed around?
Variable. Some filaments I've printed I've gone down to 3mm/s; somewhere around 10-15 should be fairly slow for most purposes, though.

>Why can't I get rid of that banding? I can lower the layer height, right?
You might be able to, but the banding generally isn't a function of layer height; check if your belts are tight is the first thing I'd suggest, past that, googling something like "How to get rid of banding on <your printer name here>" would be way better than anything I could recommend, not knowing your hardware.

[Anonymous No.1880302]

>>1880288
I said artillery sidewinder x1, lmao

[Anonymous No.1880469]

>>1880080
>2nd prints failed
Added a raft to the entire print.

[Anonymous No.1880488]

Did you look into this: https://3dprintbeginner.com/artillery-sidewinder-x1-calibration-guide/#Check_for_binding_or_bent_Z_rods

[Anonymous No.1880495]

>>1880469
Is your spool on top? It seems to wiggle more with it. https://youtu.be/1BWSqQxpqDE

[Anonymous No.1880520]

>>1880120
The only upgrade you NEED for any Ender is Capricorn PTFE (unless you stick to PLA) and is very easy to install. Any other upgrades are just Quality of Life memes.

[Anonymous No.1880528]

>>1880469
3rd print failed. breaking the print into several smaller prints to see if that fixes everything. I never thought I would have had this much trouble with standard PLA.

[Anonymous No.1880662]

You guys and gals have a preferred PLA?
Brand/Type/Color?

[Anonymous No.1880712]

Tangential to 3DPG, I was looking at getting a laser engraver or cutter to start doing more intensive projects with my printers and I saw a link for the Wainlux K6. I know what to look for spec and price wise for 3d printers, what should I be looking at for laser engravers to use alongside my printers?

[Anonymous No.1880727]

Its about that time
Wish me luck boyos

[Anonymous No.1880745]

>>1880662
Ive had good results with hatchbox, but cant get it locally. I use a lot of inland pla+ from my local supplier. It works fine too

[Anonymous No.1880748]

>>1880712
i'm just getting into printing myself, but from what i understand it's p easy to retrofit a laser onto the head of a printer and use it as a laser cutter with a little tweaking. the printer already has a power supply and good X Y axis control

[Anonymous No.1880755]

>>1880745
I like inland, it’s strong and cheap here

[Anonymous No.1880863]

Did anyone upgrade their heatbreak to a full metal or bimetal?

[Anonymous No.1880900]

>>1880712
>what should I be looking at for laser engravers
Safety. Make sure you have some kind of enclosure or shield for it so that a stray beam of light doesn't reflect off something and go into your eyes. It takes less time for it to damage your tissue than it does for your blink reflex to kick in.

[Anonymous No.1880904]

>>1879226
this.
if anything, I'd expect them to be the most detail oriented when it comes to painting and finishing such small details.

>>1880093
purr-dy, I'd be surprised if it looks better painted that it does now.

>>1879515
might be working checking the torrent board for a humble bundle thread. I know there's been 3d models before but there could be 40k.

>>1880528
since I got back into it, i've been printing ABS alot easier than PLA, and I think my PLA warping is cooling related. It used to be the opposite.

[Anonymous No.1880996]

Anyone planning on grabbing a Saturn?
The print volume at the price point make it really attractive
>>1880278
That came out really good actually, just grab some sandpaper + water and sand it down

[Anonymous No.1881003]

>>1880996

I'm waiting for the Photon Mono X to come out to see how it compares. In any case the Saturn won't be available til' october. I'm also not so hot on the idea of having to change my current setup of spare vats + wash/cure station to bigger ones in order to accomodate the larger size.

I've checked the prices for spare LCD's and motherboards from CBD-Tech's aliexpress store (CBD/ChituSystems are the ones who actually produce the boards and screens for Elegoo, Anycubic etc.). The custom mono 4K LCDs are a bit pricier than the regular off-the-shelf 5.5 ones, even if being monochrome means they will last longer.

I'd say it's worth considering mainly if you have specific plans for large parts, because there are going to be additional costs from the increased resin usage and more exotic replacement parts.

[Anonymous No.1881009]

>>1880996
I wonder, if the build volume is large enough, and you ignore the work required to get a print (post-processing for resin, calibration and levelling and maintenance for fdm), is there any advantage fdm has besides price of raw material stock?

[Anonymous No.1881010]

>>1881009
They don't scale the same way as FDM. Even those "big" resin printers still have a smaller build volume than the most basic 210x210mm reprap bed. The larger the area, the more problems you run into when peeling the part off the FEP film for each layer, and the more expensive the display becomes. There's also other advantages to FDM like multi-material printing and that plastic filaments are strong by default and recyclable.

[Anonymous No.1881030]

>>1881003
>Photon Mono X
Great to see some competition
Whichever I get will be my first SLA printer, I'd be mainly using it to print positives of my 3D models for moulding.
I can wait though, probably until ~Jan/Feb to see what local suppliers get.

[Anonymous No.1881031]

>>1879998
Be more descriptive with your issue, what do you mean by slipping extruder?
>>1880011
Don't listen to this jew.

[Anonymous No.1881036]

>>1881031
>wasting your precious time on tinkering with chinkshit when you could just pay up for a quality product and concentrate on the actually important parts like printing stuff

[Anonymous No.1881039]

>>1881036
>tinkering
Welcome to /diy/

[Anonymous No.1881044]

>>1881039
Wrong
Thats "Welcome to /poorfaggot/" which is a whole sect of the /diy/ community
Some like to "tinker", others like to buy competent tools in the first place, to actually build things

[Anonymous No.1881057]

what's in the BOX?

[Anonymous No.1881131]

>>1878530
I put a hump on the back and split it in two so I could melt in some screw inserts and screw it together. For the grips I decided to slap metric spec picatinny rail on the sides and design the grips later with the female side of rail attachment.

Until then, I got a tactical gameboy.

[Anonymous No.1881136]

>>1880904
My PLA is standard temp. 200c nozzle, 50c bed. I added rafts to all my parts and it fixed it. Now the hard part is getting the prototype to work. I am thinking of completely changing one of the parts to be easier to make and fit the assembly much easier. Will post what I'm talking about when I get off work.

[Anonymous No.1881245]

Where to buy dessecant to keep spools dry in a box? Cat litter seems not to be good enough.

[Anonymous No.1881248]

>>1880996
>Anyone planning on grabbing a Saturn?
Was, but when I saw the release date and how quickly the pre-sale batches were snapped up, I reckon I'd have no chance of getting one until next year, so I just settled on the mars pro instead.

[Anonymous No.1881250]

>>1881009
FDM is a lot safer, cleaner and smells a lot less.

[Anonymous No.1881255]

>>1881009
You can also put in fibers or even work on the part while printing, look for E3D ToolChanger: https://youtu.be/C7wYfaHT1g0

[Anonymous No.1881294]

>>1881057
3d printed dragon dildos

[Anonymous No.1881296]

How far can i go?
How far can you go?

[Anonymous No.1881297]

Is vapor smoothing a thing with pla?

[Anonymous No.1881298]

>>1881245
Local gun store has desiccant for gun safes
Also damprid might work

[Anonymous No.1881303]

>>1881297

No. It doesn't work for PETG either

[Anonymous No.1881310]

>>1881303
Thanks

[Anonymous No.1881321]

>>1881296
Does this mean i dont need supports anymore?

[Anonymous No.1881371]

>>1879124
>>1879154
>>1879205

I have a Creality Cr10 S5 that I bought specifically for a prototype project. I have had a similar experience. The S5 is just impossible to level-- the heated bed is cupped from the factory, meaning I will literally never be able to get it level. I saw a video of a guy applying layers of tape under the glass to add thickness in shallow points, but I can't be bothered.

Luckily, I was able to complete the project, but I would never recommend the printer. Should have trusted my gut about buying a cheap machine from China.

[Anonymous No.1881376]

>>1881321
no you should use 60 degree support

[Anonymous No.1881381]

I’ve seen worse benchys

[Anonymous No.1881388]

>>1881381
that's pretty good looking

[Anonymous No.1881395]

>>1881388
Out of the box no upgrades or changes FLSUN Q5 delta printer and it’s my first 3D printer

[Anonymous No.1881403]

>tried to sand down PLA
>tried to file it down next
what a huge fucking mistake

[Anonymous No.1881409]

>>1881403
What kind / grit sandpaper did u try?

[Anonymous No.1881410]

>>1881409
120 on a belt sander.

[Anonymous No.1881411]

>>1881298
>>>1881245 (You)
>Local gun store has desiccant for gun safes
>Also damprid might work
Thanks! But, I'm from Europe. No local gun stores I know about, though there are hunters, so there must be something somewhere. I'll look for something like Damprid in my tool store.

[Anonymous No.1881417]

pla seems to be coming out of the side of my ender3's nozzle
what do

[Anonymous No.1881433]

>>1879520
Their wood filament is just lovely and has always given me great results.

[Anonymous No.1881435]

>>1880996
If you even manage to grab the pre-sale at 400 bucks, you're gonna wait til next year to get one easily.

[Anonymous No.1881449]

So I just installed my V6 and noticed I could shorten my Capricorn by 2 inches (6cm)
Should I:
>Leave the extra 2 inches, it doesnt make a big difference?
>Cut my Capricorn Tubing
>Replace it with regular PTFE and cut it to size

[Anonymous No.1881452]

>>1881376
Why?

[Anonymous No.1881454]

>>1881417
Change nozzle, is plugged, also check on tubing and fittings, thats what happend to me last week
See >>1880727

[Anonymous No.1881456]

>>1881136
it's ass quality, but it's a mechanism to move bullet casings down the press to the next station for their next operation.

[Anonymous No.1881470]

>>1881449
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DB5b4673GJ0

[Anonymous No.1881477]

>>1878467
any good guides to diy an elegoo saturn clone? the monochrome 8.9" 3840×2400 lcds are available even if the saturn isnt

[Anonymous No.1881480]

I bought a roll of TPU thinking I'd print a mask. Long story short, not gonna happen. Is there anything remotely useful I can print with TPU?

[Anonymous No.1881483]

>>1881480
Phone case, shoe insoles, uh boobies?

[Anonymous No.1881487]

Is there any reason I shouldnt use a resin printer to print gun lowers? I want to make some FGC9s and AR15 lowers, but besides that Im primarily interested in printing minis and dont want to buy two printers

[Anonymous No.1881503]

>>1881487
don't resins typically end up being much more brittle than FDM?

[Anonymous No.1881582]

>>1881403
This is why I don't get why people recommend PLA as the be-all end-all of filaments (next to PETG). Post-processing ABS is simply fantastic.

[Anonymous No.1881583]

>>1881487
Can you even fit a lower into most consumer printers?

But yeah, anon's right, it's brittle and will probably crack/shatter unless you use a design specifically made for resin.

[Anonymous No.1881595]

does crashing geometry matter on an SLA printer?

i've got some character models i've been meaning to print, and they are split apart at spots like shoulders/hands/ head/ etc, and i was thinking about trying to combine them before printing so i can do them all in 1 plate, as opposed to having to do like 3 or 4 different plates.

just wondering if overlapping parts will just print solid or if it will cause errors. wondering if anyone had any insight before i went and wasted the resin on it

[Anonymous No.1881597]

>>1881595
Overlapping parts will (or, should, if your slicer's any good) print solid. Check the file before you print, though.

[Anonymous No.1881598]

>>1881595
Depends on the slicer. Has worked for me in creation workshop.

[Anonymous No.1881599]

>>1881597
using my anycubic photon, and the newer photon workshop slicer, if that matters. i've had pretty good results with it so far

[Anonymous No.1881656]

>>1881411
Just buy it online.
I've just checked two major auction portals and amazon, all offer the orange silica gel desiccantat reasonable prices.
Where exactly are you from?

[Anonymous No.1881666]

I've got a really fucking old 3D printer that I want to get back to working shape, pic related. It's been years since I touched it and Slic3r's gone through so many updates since then, the UI it used is absolutely archaic. Is there any reason I can't use the newest version of PrusaSlicer with it? As far as I know, if I make the settings the same, the GCode should generate the same, right?

[Anonymous No.1881667]

>>1881666
Forgot to mention, this thing used Pronterface to print and had no SD card slot, so it *had* to be hooked up to a computer to print. Shit's pretty much a relic these days, but I still want to fix it up.

[Anonymous No.1881681]

>>1881480
> anything remotely useful I can print with TPU?
I want to try printing air muscles and other soft parts for some fembot project. Makes more sense for me than you, I guess. Some kind of Fleshlight? Toys for a cat? Dampers, e.g. for your printer.

>>1881410
>>>1881409
>120 on a belt sander.
There's the problem. I think you can sand PLA but have to go slow and by hand. Well, now you know. Didn't try myself, bc waiting for my printer.

>>1881656
Thanks, I'll try that.

[Anonymous No.1881697]

>>1878467
can we add the Sovol SV01 to the printer suggestions? but note that it's mostly worth noting because its direct drive and not bowden

[Anonymous No.1881698]

>>1881480
Rubber duck

[Anonymous No.1881703]

>>1881480
>TPU mask
Why isn't it working? You would need support material?

[Anonymous No.1881705]

>>1881666
No reason why it shouldn't.
>>1881667
Try use octoprint on a raspberry pi instead.

[Anonymous No.1881710]

>>1879802
I have that sort of equipment. What specifically are you trying to do and how good does it have to be?

[Anonymous No.1881712]

>>1879954
>>1879802
Photogrammetry? AFAIK there's more than a few free apps/programs out there which should get you pretty close to what you need

[Anonymous No.1881713]

>>1881667

The printrboard has an SD slot and an expansion header. You should be able to attach one of those cheap lcd controllers if you configure and compile a new version of marlin for it. Octoprint would be if you want to print over wifi, but you need to use a beefier Pi

[Anonymous No.1881714]

>>1881712
Have you or any other anon found a good, free photogrammetry software and setup?

[Anonymous No.1881723]

>>1881713
>printrboard has an SD slot and an expansion header
Huh, interesting, guess I missed those.
>if you configure and compile a new version of marlin for it
More effort than I'm willing to put in, frankly. Figuring out how to get a modern slicer to make gcode for it is probably about the limit of my patience for now.

[Anonymous No.1881747]

>>1881666
Got a printer from the same time. Works well with current slciers. I still start my prints with pronterface.

[Anonymous No.1881818]

Upgraded from Lite6 to V6 now my shit keeps jamming. Where did I go wrong?
Im using 3.2mm retract (bowden) and the stock 30mm heatsink fan

[Anonymous No.1881820]

>>1881818
pic related

[Anonymous No.1881829]

>>1881820
Needs more retract

[Anonymous No.1881830]

>>1881829
Wouldnt it jam with too much retract though? You can see some underextruded parts where it jammed and the extruder lost grip.

[Anonymous No.1881833]

What's the difference between the Creality ender 3X AND the Creality Ender 3 Pro?

[Anonymous No.1881842]

>>1881818
Direct drive on a V6 should be below 2mm on a direct drive setup, although you can get it down to 0.5-0.6mm. 2mm is the starting point on a bowden as well, increase from there instead of starting at 3.2.
There is a chance you have incorrectly assembled the hotend and there is a gap between the nozzle and the heat break. Take it apart, screw the nozzle in completely, then back off a full turn. Screw in the heat break and butt it up againt the nozzle, add the other components. Heat it up to 285 Celsius, and tighten the nozzle to 1Nm. This order of operations should prevent any clogs and jams due to gaps between nozzle and heat break inside the heater block.

>>1881830
If you think the extruder jammed due to losing grip, you can tighten it, lower retraction speed settings, or try and reduce friction inside the bowden tube.

[Anonymous No.1881843]

>>1881818
One guy a couple months ago had the same issue and couldn't solve it, gave up and bought a prusa (was using an AC i3 mega).
Some possible solutions are to increase temps, but probably the biggest is to just use a direct drive as the increased torque pushes through the jams. You can also increase your travel speeds I guess.
Very cute asuka tho.

[Anonymous No.1881844]

>>1881833
pro has the wider y axis and meanwell PSU, 3X was just the 3 with added extras like the magnetic bed IIRC

[Anonymous No.1881852]

>>1881842
I will retry with 2mm, and also recheck the nozzle, however I am quite certain I've assembled it properly.
Im already using Capricorn Tubing and I've just ordered a 3:1 extruder for more torque

>>1881843
I really want to get a Prusa aswell but its small build volume is a dealbreaker. I will probably get a Mini since most parts fit that one, but for the larger ones I need to fix up my CR10 V2 (or wait for the Prusa XL)
Upgrading to direct drive (with E3d titan?) would be good, it would just mean my new v6 carriage was for nothing :( The Stock Lite6 carriage was just a tiny bit too big for the V6 and the nozzle would be just a bit higher than the lowest point of the carriage so I had to print a custom one, pic related.
Indeed, she cute.

[Anonymous No.1881856]

>>1881852
>cr10 v2
The stock heater is a v6 clone, just use the stock carriage and the e3d vs and titan should fit it unless I'm mistaken.
Also surely there's an adapter available to let you attach the e3d titan.
>t. has a cr10 v2 with e3d titan but stock heatbreak and shroud.

[Anonymous No.1881893]

>>1881856
Yeah heres the thing though, the V6 is like 3mm shorter than the Stock CR10V2 hotend, which doesnt make the nozzle stick out from under the carriage anymore.

[Anonymous No.1881897]

>>1881666
my makerfarm i3v is also about 6 years old and works just fine, it sat awhile about now i'm getting back into it. started with breaking the glass bed i put on it so upgraded to a spring sheet bed for like $30 so I can also attach an inductive probe to be a new z limit switch for probing and bed leveling.
While there's new dedicated electronics and stuff out there, it all still pretty much works the same, you'll just need to take time to configure and understand newer firmware if you want the new features (which is worth it). Now i don't have first layer height or adhesion problems at all.

>>1881667
I've always used repiter-host cause it was the first one i tried but with it not being open source, I've tried others but jumping between manual controls, temp recording (useful for firmware trouble shooting), and ease of use, I just haven't found another sender as overall intuitive.

I never even use the SD card cause i'll make slicer tweaks or print different parts.

>>1881723
>More effort than I'm willing to put in
inductive probe <$10
metal bed w/ magnets & PEI sheet ≈ $30
auto bed leveling is a worthy upgrade and reason to put new marlin on it

[Anonymous No.1882028]

How to fix

[Anonymous No.1882053]

>>1882028
lower retracts, if that doesnt fix it replace the PTFE tubing

[Anonymous No.1882099]

do you need to buy a specialty 3d printer to use those unique filaments like the metal and flexible ones?

sorry, new to the whole 3d printing stuff. looking to get into it so i can use them for my costuming stuff.

[Anonymous No.1882111]

>>1882099
Forget metal 3d printing, you only need that for industrial purposes. If you want stuff to look metal, you can still paint them.
Flexibles can be printed by direct drive printers or good bowden ones.
If you can afford a Prusa MK3S, id get that one as its a really capable and well-buildt printer. Dont get cheap chinese stuff, you will be stuck repairing and upgrading them instead of doing what you actually wanted
t.. currently fixing my chinese printer

[Anonymous No.1882125]

>>1882099
"specialty" printers are usually in the high thousands / tens of thousands and up. Just about everything you need for cosplay you can print on something that's a general purpose FDM printer.

Seconding with what >>1882111 said, so I don't repeat them, and I also recommend the MK3S since otherwise you'll be fucking around with the printer instead of doing costuming stuff.

>inb4 shill
There's a die-hard cadre of people who fundamentally believe that whatever sub-$200 printer is on sale that week is Just As Good, and then neglect to mention the many "upgrades" and time investment you need to make for it to just work fine.

[Anonymous No.1882126]

>>1881842
My chinese v6 + direct drive jams when retraction is above 0.5mm, and when anything leaks when it should not, it typically means that the temperature is too high.

>>1882099
> do you need to buy a specialty 3d printer to use those unique filaments
Keep in mind that for a typical /diy/ printer the "unique filaments" include ABS/ASA, nylon (PA) and some flexibles.
ABS / ASA and nylon wrap enough to prevent printing anything larger without enclosure (nylon is no go without a heated enclousre).
Most nylons and some flexibles require higher temperature than an average /diy/ printer can handle.

[Anonymous No.1882143]

>>1881487
I thought resin prints were brittle also, but this guy made some Glock lowers with them.

https://m.imgur.com/r/polymer80/BBaioYJ

[Anonymous No.1882230]

>>1880520
A flat glass bed actually stays flat is a must in my book too.

[Anonymous No.1882232]

>>1882099
I went with Artillery Genius as a beginner printer for 260€. It has a direct drive, which is claimed to be better for flexibles ( and I saw test on Youtube). I bought the smaller one bc I might not need big parts and will build or buy a cheap one for big prints later. The bigger Artillery Sidewinder X1 is only around 100$/90€ more, though.
For very big parts later CoreXY rails might be better bc weight of the printhead, especially if I'm going to use the Supervolcano hotend and maybe still direct drive...

[Anonymous No.1882233]

>>1880662
For PLA Hatchbox and Reprapper’s “silk” filaments are my go to depending what sheen I want.
Lately I’ve been printing more outdoor stuff and Polymaker’s “Polylite” ASA is fantastic.

[Anonymous No.1882235]

>>1881136
Rafts are a terrible fix to an unlevel/uneven bed. Unless your part is super irregular on all sides try to avoid rafts.

[Anonymous No.1882262]

>>1882099
Metal isn't describing very well what you want, there's is filament which looks like Gold/Copper/Silver, there are use cases for some Iron in your prints eg making them magnetic, and there is stuff like 4Max Metal: https://youtu.be/QaMdjKE7vT8
What matters is needed temperature, abrasion, possible need for a enclosure, and need for a special oven for post-processing. PLA that shines like metal will be the easiest. For more, temp and abrasion can be handled with some extra parts for 20-30$/€. If necessary, enclosure will need work or add some costs, especially if it needs to be heated.
People were experimenting with welding devices to create metal objects, but don't know where this went and it's a special thing: https://youtu.be/wOarxQRKW9o
Using strong plastics like PC or Nylon and optionally add carbon fibers in post-processing will most likely be more interesting: https://youtu.be/wN1AFG08P28

[Anonymous No.1882270]

will motor oil eat through PLA?

[Anonymous No.1882283]

>>1878467
Where can I get a replacement for the assembly on the right side of the Ender 3 pro's x-axis bar? The tightening screws are stripped and the rubber band method isn't working for me, so I figure the next best thing is to replace wheels and screws.

[Anonymous No.1882285]

>>1882270
Interesting question. I know for a fact vegetable oil doesn’t. Worth a try. I’ll throw some support scraps in a cup with some synthetic oil this afternoon cause I’m curious as well.

[Anonymous No.1882356]

>>1881893
Huh, I know someone who does have a v6 i the stock cr10 v2 carriage and he seems to be fine.

[Anonymous No.1882370]

>>1881480
>usefull TPU
The soft part of stamps or rollers to put paint on sth, and printing directly on shirts.

[Anonymous No.1882425]

Anyone know how the fuck I can rip the models/animations from SFV?
I can't find shit on this, I just wanna print off Zangief's battle costume and maybe have him doing some kinda pose from the game if possible but I have no fucking idea what I'm doing with 3D modeling software

[Anonymous No.1882436]

Anyone having experience with dual extrusion? Diamond, Chimera, Cyclops?
Is or was there a Mellow Crazy clone of Mosquito hotend, but with dual extrusion? There's one silly Youtube vid, others might be flagged and gone. Mellow doesn't sell it, seems to be bc patents in US.

[Anonymous No.1882439]

>>1880904
Some specks of paint mispainted and the primer isn't smooth, but I'm overall satisfied. Whorefaggot Spesh Mareen next to it for scale.

[Anonymous No.1882440]

>>1882436
Never mind, found it in the Mellow store.

[Anonymous No.1882461]

if I want a larger printbed, what's the best option? I bought an Anet A8 but it was fraught with issues, so I nagged a prusa mk3 a year or two back and it's performed admirably, but I want to print stuff like full helmets and guns for customers doing cosplay.

The Ender3 has a kit that extends the print volume to 400mmx400mmx800mm or something crazy like that, would it be worth trying out? I can swing throwing the 700 bucks total for both parts, I'm working lots rn.

[Anonymous No.1882463]

>>1882461
Honestly? Might as well hold out for the Prusa XL. It's been announced, we know it's coming, we just don't know when. Pretty much every other large-format printer I've seen is "shitty chinese printer design but longer extrusions" without actually considering how making it bigger is worse, or a home-built solution, or a ridiculously expensive professional variant. It doesn't really look like there's good larger format printers out right now, but it'd be great if I was proven wrong.

[Anonymous No.1882466]

>>1882463

oh, I hadn't heard about the prusa XL. Any word on print volume?

Also yes, I agree. the ender 3 extender (yes they actually call it that) is just a drop-in replacement kit for several of the extrusions, belts, wiring and print bed. It doexsz appear to work well enough tho.

[Anonymous No.1882468]

>>1882463

I read up on the prusa XL, they said 40cm cubed. I'd probably go with that

[Anonymous No.1882469]

>>1882466
400x400x400+, supposedly.

[Anonymous No.1882471]

>>1882469

I think by "and more" they mean more features and improvements. Now I just need to get a hotbox for my current printer so I can print abs and petg better

[Anonymous No.1882474]

>>1882471
>hotbox for printer
Unironically get one of these, it's the cheapest and quickest solution and even provides the bonus of quieting it down a bit. I've gotten the internal temp to ~65C+ with the 3/4" thick version; 1/2" is a bit floppy for me, and 1" leaves a little bit of gap but appears to be enough to print small PEEK parts inside of.

[Anonymous No.1882476]

>>1882474

should I cut it down or anything or will it fit together pretty well on it's own?

[Anonymous No.1882493]

>>1882476
Fits together great, can even fit all my tools and a light inside, plus mount the printer on a concrete slab *and* additional foam pads (depending on how tall yours is).

[Anonymous No.1882503]

Has anyone in here printed gifts for their friends or family? What'd you print?

[Anonymous No.1882510]

>>1882474
How do you keep the electronics cool? Seems like the printer needs to be on a mount or socket and a air channel underneath, also some isolation mats somewhere.

[Anonymous No.1882512]

>>1880028
>you [insult], you [repeated and equally childish insult]
this meme was dead on arrival, and your use of it demonstrates your irrelevance
commit unsubscribe

[Anonymous No.1882516]

Followup: Printed at 30mm/s instead of 50, and I've got some discoloration in a couple of parts. What's the recommended method for cleaning that up? Why'd it happen? I only printed at something like 200/210.

[Anonymous No.1882518]

Printed with a layer height around .06, only around 210 or so, and I got some discoloration (notice the top). What does everyone do to finish their parts?

[Anonymous No.1882521]

>>1882518
wait between layers or have a duty cycle on the end of the print, it's burning because the nozzle is too close to single area on the print for too long. if you want that print to look even nicer, try homing your x and y axis every layer. might reduce the banding/layer shifting.

[Anonymous No.1882523]

>>1882521
>home every layer
Is that an option in simplify3d or cura? Why isn't this ever talked about in terms of "fixing" banding? I can see it making it taking forever, but that seems, offhand, sensical and pretty practical.

[Anonymous No.1882525]

>>1882523

it might be? Last time I was using it, I was using a very weird slicer that was recommended with my Anet A8, which I've shelved. Worked great at the time, I tried tightening my belts to reduce slop, and even completely taking it apart and putting it back together and homing ever layer worked better than all of the other fixes I did. I doubt it would work if you didn't have limit switches, overtorque sensing might not be as accurate as switches.

[Anonymous No.1882571]

hey guys, been printing with my anycubic photon and i've got an issue

so i've been using the new photon workshop and its been working pretty well for me, been getting good prints, but hearing everyone go on about the prusa+chitubox combo i decided to give it a shot, and got nothing but headaches.

followed the generally recommended videos for setting up those software, found prusa to be a real hassle to get going. less so with chitubox as it had the photon profiles, and chitubox definitely has better and faster layout and slicing tools than the photon workshop, and its less prone to transformation glitches (sometimes photon workshop gets irregular rotation axis after duplicating or mirroring a model, and it always inverts the normals when mirroring which is a nightmare)

so i get a file done and spat out of chitubox as a photon file sliced and ready to go. stick it in the photon, and it prints like the first 4-8 layers but after that, it continues going through the image files but the arm stops moving up and down to the new layer heights, and it proceeds to just continually cure a single layer (at this point its several hundred small dots where the supports are building) over and over again.

is there some setting i didnt check? i've never had that happen before where the arm just doesnt move. it didnt even engage the motor or anything. its not like anything was stuck or there was any vaccum/suction going on

[Anonymous No.1882574]

>>1882439
How is that elf like 11 feet tall

[Anonymous No.1882576]

>>1882521
>try homing your x and y axis every layer.
Thats pretty retarded. If you are loosing steps fix the issiue. If you have Z wobble this will do nothing to help it.

[Anonymous No.1882578]

>>1881681
>I want to try printing air muscles and other soft parts for some fembot project.
I printed one of those 7 or 8 inch tall ball jointed dolls when I first started printing. I keep thinking with a little fabbing I could give it flexible joints without the string, but then I couldn't pose it.

>>1881703
Workplace is on the rails about banning custom masks. First it was just different colors, then floral patterns and smiley faces and cat mouths, now we've got skulls and vampire teeth and zombie rot printed masks. No point in making my own mask if I have to wear the disposable ones.

[Anonymous No.1882631]

>>1882576
look at the print dumbass, his layers are misaligned. His z axis is fine, and he needs to slow down his print so it cools properly anyway.

[Anonymous No.1882677]

>>1882576
Gonna be honest: People who say shit like "loosing" instead of "losing" aren't people I take advice from.

[Anonymous No.1882692]

Any recommendations on 3D Pens?

Or should I do a few more upgrades and use the original parts to bodge together my own custom pen?

[Anonymous No.1882693]

>>1882471
>>1882510
I built a simple box around my i3v with scrap wood frame and cardboard for the sides with an acrylic door. The extruder assembly ended up being made of PLA and started warping in the hotbox. I quickly was able to make a new one of ABS before it got too bad. I can't remember if I had overheating issues or not but ened up moving the electronics to the outside of the box. It's not pretty but it works well enough.

I'm jumping back into this after having it and my filament sit for a few years.
Recently did >>1881897
I have like 2 PLA and 2 ABS spools that have sat around for a few years in open air. Think that may be a big contributor to any print quality issues like popping sounds from PLA and ABS layer separate?

I was also thinking of burning through my old stock and switching the extruder over from 3mm to 1.75mm since that seems to have become standard.

[Anonymous No.1882699]

>>1882693

popping from extruder is either overtemp on the filament or moisture, 100%.

[Anonymous No.1882701]

>>1882677
Foreigners with English as the second language?

[Anonymous No.1882709]

>>1882631
>he needs to slow down his print
So he should use G4 instead of braindadly homing every layer.
>>1882677
Well fuck you then.

[Anonymous No.1882738]

>>1878467
Let's say you're a retard and build a printer with a build volume of 1200x2000x1000 but forget to buy a huge extruder and end up with 3 year printing time.
What the hell is the fastest biggest extruder known that is available in the market to buy?
lets say max 1000 USD for an extruder

[Anonymous No.1882741]

>>1882738
V6 Supervolcano.

[Anonymous No.1882744]

>>1882741
Know of any pellet fed extrudes?

[Anonymous No.1882745]

>>1882744
Yes, but the only one cheaper than 1000USD is the rather amateurish Mahor.

[Anonymous No.1882748]

>>1882745
At what price points are they not rather amateurish?

[Anonymous No.1882807]

>this orc comes around and slaps your printer's ass
what do you do?

[Anonymous No.1882818]

>>1882510
>How do you keep the electronics cool
Frankly? I don't, but I probably should. I don't print at such high temperatures often, most of my prints are PLA and sometimes ABS; the enclosure is largely for draft protection, and if I keep it cracked at the top it gets warm enough for ABS prints but not hot enough that I'm concerned for the electronics. I've strapped fuckhueg heatsinks to my top steppers (MMU2S) and added a cooling fan to my extruder stepper and it's been working well so far.

I really should move the PSU, control board, and screen somewhere else (or make a cooling duct for them) but the prospect of re-wiring everything and figuring out where to actually put it is a bit daunting at the moment.

[Anonymous No.1882820]

>>1882571
Do you have any known-good old files you could launch to see if it's a mechanical problem? If it does the same thing, might be the machine, if not, then it's almost certainly software.

[Anonymous No.1882821]

>>1882807
roll for initiative

[Anonymous No.1882822]

>>1882748
Last time I asked for a quote for the Dyze Pulsar it was at least 5K USD.

[Anonymous No.1882829]

>>1882822
Pretty good actually if you compare it to this ridiculous thing

[Anonymous No.1882837]

>>1882829
>>1882829
Yeah, advancement in pellet extruders has actually been quite good, both from the industrial and reprap side. I wonder why you'd ever want a 6mm filament-based extruder though, that shit looks way too heavy and who the hell even has 6mm filament.

[Anonymous No.1882851]

>>1882829
Why would you need that kind of throughput? Who the hell is going to print that fast when it's that damn heavy?

[Anonymous No.1882855]

>>1882837
not everyone is printing waifus.

[Anonymous No.1882864]

>>1882851
>Flow rate = movement speed
Only brainlets think like this, real fast printing comes from big nozzles and big layer heights. Suppose you take the biggest 4.8mm nozzle with a 2mm layer height, you're looking at 30mm/s maximum, or 15mm/s at 4mm layer height.
For reference's sake, with most stock hotends I recommend to stay below 10mm3/s, which translates to 20mm/s with a 0.8mm nozzle and 0.6mm layer height. Yes really. Alternatively, that's 125mm/s on a 0.4 nozzle and 0.2mm layer height, so what most people run (but nobody ITT runs 125mm/s). Although E3D doesn't recommend it, I've ran Volcanos up to 36mm3/s with a 1.2 nozzle, 0.6 layer height and 60mm/s. They'd much rather see a Supervolcano at that point because it's not properly melting the filament anymore, but it works. Also depends on the material, some are less conducive than others.
To add to this: that new Dyze Pulsar is rated at about 500mm3/s, and I've worked with a multimillion dollar pellet extruder that'll go well beyond that. The limiting factor there is that those pellet extruder require a minimum throughput: they have to keep pumping through material or the internals rapidly degrade.

[Anonymous No.1882886]

>>1882471
>hotbox
$6 of Home Depot engineered insulation (with the foil on one side) makes a really good enclosure.

[Anonymous No.1882948]

>>1882235
Might break down and have to get a glass bed. Every time I try to level my bed with a machinist level it is horribly off. CR10 V2 btw.

[Anonymous No.1882953]

>>1882886
I'd be scared of a house fire. I might go with a grow tent.

[Anonymous No.1882955]

>>1882864
Thanks, I knew some of that stuff but not about the limits of my Volcano. I'll get a 0.8 nozzle and maybe bigger ones, though then I'll have to go really slow. I might get Supervolcano later, like I wrote in >>1882232
https://youtu.be/pMQV-pHAfX0
https://youtu.be/cAKBZiPBTss

[Anonymous No.1882979]

>>1882948
So “level” isn’t necessarily what you need. Kind of a misnomer. You need to ensure that the head is the same distance away from the bed at every X and Y point. Your bed could be 20° off level but it’ll be just fine as long as the gantry is the same 20° off and parallel to it. A machinist level is useless, but a feeler gauge (some people use a sheet of paper or business card) between the tip of the nozzle and the bed in all 4 corners and the center will ensure your first level is flat to the build plate. I do find that a glass bed is more repeatable and flat than the removable textured beds. Just make sure it’s cleaned and sprayed down with aqua net before every print.
Last tip: let the bed heat up to temp for 15 minutes or so before leveling as your adjustment screws and the bed frame do expand a little with heat.

[Anonymous No.1882996]

> Ender 3 pro finally ships after me asking "when's it gonna ship, bro"
> Gets here
> MeanWell(tm) power supply defaulted to 220
even though shipped from communist California
Nice try, Xi.

[Anonymous No.1883056]

>>1882996
mine came that way too. confused me for a few minutes until I switched it and then started right up.

[Anonymous No.1883057]

>>1882820
yeah, i just printed a known good file last night from my photon. same settings, didnt even re-level or adjust any of the parts. printed perfectly

the issue is definitely something to do with the file that chitubox is printing out, i just dont know what setting could have possibly done this. is there a setting in there that controls how the arm moves?

[Anonymous No.1883060]

>>1883057
>is there a setting in there that controls how the arm moves?
Yeah, all of them. That’s how GCode works. Try a different slicer or look up slicer settings other people have used for your printer.

[Anonymous No.1883062]

>>1881583
What about something like Formlabs Tough Resin? Does anyone have experience with it or any alternatives? it looks like it might be what was used in
>>1882143

[Anonymous No.1883126]

>>1882996
>put my communist made flsun q5 together
>default 220
>the switch to change it is in the god most inconvenient spot in human history
Damn chinks

[Anonymous No.1883179]

>>1882979
Huh, I always was taught level was absolute to as close to get to perfect. I guess 3d printing will have looser tolerances regardless.

[Anonymous No.1883184]

>>1883179
Hell, you can even print sideways or upside down if you want and your printer can still be "level", since it's the nozzle W.R.T. the print bed

[Anonymous No.1883188]

>>1883179
This is high level autism, just consider it tramming the bed to the nozzle instead of leveling

[Anonymous No.1883209]

Turns out the fucker I bought this salvage framework from can't read a damn tape measure and it's 4 inches wider than advertised and consequently doesn't fit in the box I wanted it in. Has to be enclosed because I'll be printing nylon. Guess I'll look into extending the enclosure with boxed out windows or something

[Anonymous No.1883237]

>>1881057
CCP spy drones

[Anonymous No.1883239]

>>1882953
Just get yourself some fire resistant plasterboard then. You can build a good enclosure with that.

[Anonymous No.1883242]

>>1882864
The limiting factor there is that those pellet extruder require a minimum throughput: they have to keep pumping through material or the internals rapidly degrade.

What else is important to know about these exturders?

[Anonymous No.1883253]

>>1883242
>they have to keep pumping through material or the internals rapidly degrade
Source? Screw extruders don't really do that unless you're working with weird things that aren't thermoplastics

[Anonymous No.1883257]

>>1883242
There is no retraction, since there is no filament to pull back on.
The combination of minimum throughput and industrial pellet sizes mean you cannot (easily) design a pellet extruder to compete with filament extruders in terms of precision (nozzle and layer heights).
They are usually god damn heavy, which suits the ''low and slow'' method of printing (big nozzle, relatively low layer height, very slow printhead speed).

>>1883253
Source: played with very expensive pellet printer during my internship at big chemical company.

[Anonymous No.1883259]

>>1882692
They're like $30 and have no practical use, buy whatever

[Anonymous No.1883261]

>>1882996
Much better than defaulting to 120 and being shipped to a 220 country. I'd not be surprised if they all shipped set to 220 just to avoid the possibility of this mistake.

[Anonymous No.1883262]

>>1882996
based chinks

[Anonymous No.1883264]

Anyone know a good 3d printing service where I can order? I need maroon buttons for my switch lite I was just going to buy them but all I can find is ugly neon red buttons(that are on rn) in ali-express and ebay

[Anonymous No.1883276]

>>1883257
Thanks, seems like important things to consider, Do you think the 2200g new pulsar extruder will have the same limitations. It doesn't seem heavy at all

[Anonymous No.1883280]

>>1883276
>Do you think the 2200g new pulsar extruder will have the same limitations. It doesn't seem heavy at all
it'll still have no retractions and it's still heavy by filament extruder standards - I wouldn't run it over, say, 60mm/s. It'll still require minimum flow but you just use a properly sized nozzle for that.

[Anonymous No.1883538]

>>1883209
>when Anon whats to literally download and print a car.

[Anonymous No.1883549]

>>1883538
Wouldn't be the first time: >>1879004

[Anonymous No.1883559]

>>1883209
Good job on stripping the weight of that gantry though.

[Anonymous No.1883586]

Hello guys, i need a hotend recommendation.
My printer is an Ender 3 with a SKR E3 board mini v2 and 24volts connection.
My hotend broke and i need a good one under $50. I print only with PLA with the default bowden system. Thanks in advance.

[Anonymous No.1883587]

>>1883586
Chink V6

[Anonymous No.1883709]

Is it worth flashing the firmware on the ender 3 I just got?

[Anonymous No.1883721]

Anybody know of any hemera 5015 fan shroud/mounts meant for if you mount it with the heatsink on the left and not the right? I have two independent hemera extruders mirrored so one needs a different shroud but almost nobody mounts their hemera that way.

[Anonymous No.1883737]

Okay. Monoprice Mini V2 anon here. I'm getting a non-shit 3D printer. I'm currently in between Ender 3 Pro and Pruse Mini. I want to do as little maintenance as possible because the MP Mini was hell. I can do it but I'd prefer not to. I have the money for either, so that's not an issue, but i don't want to spend much more than that.

What should I get, specifically looking for a low maintenance printer?

[Anonymous No.1883775]

>>1883737
Are you even serious? Prusa is known for being high quality, Ender is for ultracheap stuff which needs upgrades and adjustments right from the start. Though, to some extent this is valid for most hobbyist printers, but with huge differences in between them. If Prusa is to expensive I'd rather go with Artillery. However, this is generally a hobby where you will have to face difficulties.

[Anonymous No.1883809]

>>1883538
Fuck yeah. Print area is going to be approx 22" x 36" x 15"
>>1883559
Yeah that gantry mounted Z was a no go. It's still a somewhat heavy gantry because of the big stepper+gearbox but that's not avoidable without going full CoreXY and that's not great kinematics at this size. Fortunately the x axis is doing the most moving so y moves can be a little slower without hurting print time too bad.

[Anonymous No.1883816]

>Poor Little Halfling 3 - ft. Rocky Harde, Willy Black, and Titianna Pucci

[Anonymous No.1883886]

>mounted hemera over the weekend, iterating on design ~2.5 times
>mount works out ok, volcano extruder set up ok, could work on improving the blower fan design since it's pretty shit right now
>start going through tuning
>huh that's odd, seems like it's overextruding. Let's check if e3d's steps/mm value is correct
>docs say 409 steps/mm as a starting point
>measure 150mm, 100mm marks on filament, extrude 100mm
>measure 20mm left, meaning that steps/mm should be set to ~314 steps/mm
>set that, measure again, comes out perfect
Fucking really, e3d? A -23% difference vs. docs?

[Anonymous No.1883892]

Are there any "old computer beige" colored filaments or should I just stick to painting?

[Anonymous No.1883893]

>>1883892
They're usually at a premium but I don't know any offhand. "Natural" colours are the closest you're likely to get, and those can vary by brand. Might as well paint

[Anonymous No.1883923]

[Anonymous No.1883938]

How do i avoid bumps on the side of prints where theres a significant amount of solid top infill?

[Anonymous No.1883945]

>>1878966
damn, looks nice.
link to the minis?

[Anonymous No.1883970]

>>1883938
Pic related.
The side should be flat but theres a bump along a line where the top solid infill is.

[Anonymous No.1884022]

>>1883886
Are you sure that it's not waaaay to tight?

[Anonymous No.1884119]

>>1883970
Shitty image. Take a better on and circle where it is.
What the fuck is it with tourists in this general taking shitty fucking pictures.

[Anonymous No.1884189]

>>1884022
>try to continue retraction tuning today
>notice severe underextrusion
>check E-steps again, asked for 100mm extrusion, got 70mm extrusion
Okay what the fuck

I've got the tension adjusted per e3d's recommendations
https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Wiki/Hemera_Troubleshooting

[Anonymous No.1884190]

>>1884189
*got 80mm

[Anonymous No.1884197]

>>1878467
Do you guys know what causes this weird pattern in my prints? It only happens in the first layers, so its noticeable with short prints.

[Anonymous No.1884199]

>>1884197
looks like temp too high possibly also over-extrusion

[Anonymous No.1884204]

>>1884199
Bed or hot end? First is 50° C and second 215° C

[Anonymous No.1884218]

>>1884204
Hot end. You're printing PLA right? 215 is pretty hot for PLA

[Anonymous No.1884227]

>>1883809
>Fortunately the x axis is doing the most moving
Make sure to not leave your Infill at the default 45deg rectlinear then.

[Anonymous No.1884232]

>>1884218
Yeah, the spool says: "recommended temp 195 - 215". Will try at the middle, 205. Thanks

[Anonymous No.1884287]

>>1884119
Get your eyesight checked all mighty oldfag...

[Anonymous No.1884303]

>>1884218
>>1884232
It isn't too hot, to achieve optimal layer adhesion with pla you need to go up to 235

[Anonymous No.1884304]

>>1883970
That's just something that happens with all printers, whenever there is a drastic change on the amount of material printed per layer there will be a bump on the outside

[Anonymous No.1884313]

>>1884304
Thanks
Ive seen it a lot, aswell as discussion on what it might be but nobody knows. Interesting.

[Anonymous No.1884349]

>>1884313
You can remediate it by making the change in the amount of material between layers more gradual

[Anonymous No.1884354]

New Thread
>>1884352

[Anonymous No.1884894]

>>1884287
I'm able to see the line on the side but I still felt like criticising the slightly out of focus image.

Now excuse me while I have my dinner and beat my wife.

[Anonymous No.1885597]

>>1882111
Checked, boy am I glad I splurged on the MK3S, a couple of months ago this general seemed to be split right down the middle about original/chinkshit i3s, nowadays most anons seem to say don't bother if you want to get on with your projects.