/3DPG/

[Anonymous No.1842519]

A Jar Full Of Flies Edition
Old thread: >>1837723

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/43ZPzsET (embed)

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 4-7-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 Pro
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron, or Qidi X-One2/X-Smart/X-Maker
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: lulzbot is (mostly) dead
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Elegoo Mars

Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free for most users, that doesn't include (you).
Variants of Solidworks, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
http://www.autodesk.com/
http://www.solidworks.com/
http://www.openscad.org
http://www.freecadweb.org
http://www.blender.org/

Resins and their curing time.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1crvzMnt_8NJXAsABinoIhcOjE8l3h7s0L82Zlh1vkL8/htmlview?sle=true#gid=0

[Anonymous No.1842579]

>>1842473
> What are the gains from having an enclosure?
Some nice materials are printable only with an enclosure, while other just print better with an enclosure.
For instance nylon shrinks so much with temperature that it's almost impossible to print it without an enclosure, as it'll pop from the build sheet.
So it you're planning to print functional parts reliably, then get an enclosure.
And putting your printer in a box is a very bad move, for the PSU as well as all electronics degrade or fail under ambient temperature that is required to print some materials (e.g. 70°C for PA).
Sadly too many people buy a 3d printer for sole purpose of printing toy figurines rather than functional parts, and the market seems to stay focused on printers that print very fine albeit useless parts.

[Anonymous No.1842592]

>>1842579
>Whining about what the normie market does.
Just build your own machine then. you have all the resources at your disposal and cheaper than ever.

[Anonymous No.1842602]

Any tips on printing polycarbonate? I got a new blend which is supposedly better quality and the one print I got from it looks great, but anything with a significant footprint peels from the print bed. Even PVA doesn't seem to help (and actually seems like it makes it worse). I'm printing at 280/115 in an enclosure which is probably ~40C (and I can't make it hotter). First layer speed is I think 15mm/s.

[Anonymous No.1842617]

>>1842579
ABS is a bitch to print at room temperature too.
Anyways I'm trying to get my hands on Copper3D filament to make prosthetics and antiviral/bacterial pieces but I don't find anyone that ships to my country (Mexico).
Anyone knows of a good store that sells internationally?

[Anonymous No.1842623]

>>1842579
>nd the market seems to stay focused on printers that print very fine albeit useless parts.

Its because its a 3d printer, its almost impossible to make "useful" parts with it.

[Anonymous No.1842646]

I just installed a 1.1.5 silent board on my Ender 3 and it doesn't work
It prints the first few layers then it underextrudes a few layer then it stops extruding completely
I tried using gcode from cura and prusa slicer, the result is the same, a few layers work fine then it stops
I'm pretty sure it's a firmware issue, what can I do?

[Anonymous No.1842656]

>>1842646
update, i tried to calibrate the e steps and it turns out that my nozzle somehow got clogged at the same exact time i replaced the board

[Anonymous No.1842757]

>>1842602
What kind of printer is it? Bearings and motors can usually handle up to 60C ambient. Just stick a heatsink on those motors. Then you can just use a temperature controlled heater

[Anonymous No.1842765]

I'm curious if there is a way to make the pictured sketch using something like the linear sketch pattern tool in Solidworks. The example was done manually one circle at a time, but I'd like to be able to automate it to save time and steps on patterns with more entities. Is there a way to do this in Solidworks? If not, is there a way to do it in fusion 360?

[Anonymous No.1842768]

[Anonymous No.1842769]

>>1842765
http://help.solidworks.com/2016/english/SolidWorks/sldworks/t_Vary_Sketch.htm#_ga=2.53955880.1888553272.1592233992-56a0e1c0-63c6-11ea-ad55-5f6845cad232

[Anonymous No.1842770]

>3 more days
worst of all my wh*te filament is running dangerous low

[Anonymous No.1842776]

>>1842770
Really nice quality.
What material is it?

[Anonymous No.1842782]

3D printing and magnets bros.

[Anonymous No.1842789]

>>1842776
just pla
print has some defects, but its hard getting more than 2 faces in focus (and i dont want to upload 17mb jpgs)

[Anonymous No.1842801]

>>1842770
what is this?

[Anonymous No.1842860]

>>1842646
me again
it appears it was clogging because my extruder fan was not turning on
because it was disconnected
and i can't reach the stupid connector screw because i can't remove the board cover because the fucking screwheads are stripped
i ended up GRUGging my way in

[Anonymous No.1842960]

>>1842860
How did you manage to strip your screwheads? Are you a smelly barbarian?

[Anonymous No.1842961]

>>1842801
Looks like flight sim pedals

[Anonymous No.1843000]

>>1842860
> because the fucking screwheads are stripped
You say that like it wasn't your fault...
Take some responsibility. You fucked up.

[Anonymous No.1843035]

>>1842104
nozzle might be clogged, and temp might actually be too high
PLA gets "sticky" when it's too hot and doesn't like to flow right

[Anonymous No.1843070]

I'm looking at getting an Anycubic Predator. I'm doing my own modeling via SolidWorks and the things I'm designing are large, so that's how I ended up on that one. I've been researching it and it seems pretty good (some people have complaints that I don't think will relate to what I'm doing). Anybody have one and can fill in on it? Their website shows it out of stock and they're not responding to their emails yet, but I'm seeing them on Aliexpress. Anybody have luck with probably knockoffs from Ali?

[Anonymous No.1843103]

>>1842757
MK3S; I know it can handle the temperature, I just mean I can't make it hotter as in "I'm unable to increase the enclosure temperature because the heat leaks out". Already got a fan on the extruder motor, really considering putting some on the MMU2 steppers because despite just holding position and nothing else during the print, they get really damn hot

[Anonymous No.1843151]

I seriously cannot figure this out guys, I said fuck it, I started with a fresh slightly modified gcode on cura ultimaker for my ender 3, and I seem I simply cannot get this stringing to stop.

All the temps I printed were at
>200C EXT
>50C bed

Other mentionable? settings
>combing within infill
>.1mm layer height

Everything was pretty much default.

So, is it possible to get rid of these? I've had good luck with prints in the past, but ever since I cleaned out my extruder my prints went to shit, I've already printed 20 of this stringing tests, and still pulling my hair.

[Anonymous No.1843154]

>>1843151
What brand of pla are you using?

[Anonymous No.1843172]

https://youtu.be/ko77iRI9bek
so much for everyone who sad hurr durr you're going to suffocate is 2 seconds if you 3d print a respirator

[Anonymous No.1843225]

>>1843172
>hurr durr you're going to suffocate is 2 seconds if you 3d print a respirator
source of your claims?
I just quickly jumped through the video. He doesn't seem to wear or test his mask design?

[Anonymous No.1843238]

>>1843172
Yeah, that's bullshit because most 3d printed masks are made from rigid material and lack rubber seals or similar on the edges so they will let a ton of air through.

[Anonymous No.1843242]

>>1843225
creality girl went on a rampage spouting this nonsense on twitter like you wouldn't notice the CO2 buildup and would die instantly if you wore it

[Anonymous No.1843250]

>>1843172
>>1843242
>like you wouldn't notice the CO2 buildup
You really wouldn't, though.
The problem with those masks is people usually prioritize ergonomics over function so they get this 3cyberpunk5me pile of garbage which doesn't have proper venting/inlets/outlets, not that it's inherently unsafe. If someone who knows what they're doing designs it it poses no problem

[Anonymous No.1843289]

>>1843250
>You really wouldn't, though.
Can you elaborate? I always thought high CO2 levels make people panic.

[Anonymous No.1843299]

>>1843154
hatchbox green pla.

[Anonymous No.1843301]

>>1843151
>>1843299
Idk what other advice you've received, so sorry if this is a repeat, but are you sure the ptfe is butting up against the nozzle? If you take the ptfe tube out of the hotend and remove the coupling what does the section of the ptfe tube look like where it was sitting in the coupling?

[Anonymous No.1843303]

>>1843301
I am at work now, but I did clean it recently that had build up, and after that my nozzle was right up against the bed (somehow) and nothing was extruding out, I took fan off and saw all this pla sitting on the heat block.
>pic related

so I cleaned it all out pulled tube out, cleaned it all up again. Followed a guide to help me ensure the tube was pushing right against the nozzle (have the nozzle loose, push the tube in as far as you can, lock it from the top, then tighten the nozzle)

[Anonymous No.1843305]

>>1843303
Ok, basically if the ptfe tube is loose around the coupling you can experience what you're dealing with. Means the tube doesn't sit flush anymore during a retraction.

[Anonymous No.1843306]

>>1843305
Hmm, anon suggested something like this a while back, is this something I'll need to do?
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3203831

[Anonymous No.1843308]

>>1843306
That's something you can do, the jig isn't necessary. CHEP on youtube goes over how to do it. Your alternative is to get some fresh ptfe and replace it or cut the ptfe from above the coupling damage if there's enough length.
Worth doing the mod anyway imo, but do it with some capricorn tubing.

[Anonymous No.1843310]

I'm new to printing, are there any good accounts to follow on thingiverse?

[Anonymous No.1843311]

>>1843310
Nope. Thingiverse is a fucking mess anyway. Better off following 3dp youtubers like makers muse who show off stuff from time to time

[Anonymous No.1843321]

>>1843308
Even if i do this mod, theres a good chance ill still have stringing. Do I just mess with the speed and distance? Combing seems to help, z hop doesnt seem to help so i disabled that.

[Anonymous No.1843323]

>>1843321
If you do it properly and you still have it you could just then have a fucked nozzle, heatbreak, or whatever. At that point I'd probably just replace the hotend assembly. Assuming you have some spare ptfe tube at home it only takes like 20m.

[Anonymous No.1843327]

>>1843323
Ive been thinking about upgrading hotend on my ender 3, any recommendations?

[Anonymous No.1843337]

>>1842860
That's a fucking mess, you heathen

[Anonymous No.1843342]

>>1843311
>better off following the shills and patreon whores
youre better off lurking the reprap forums.
>>1843327
the answer is always v6, but that wont help your stringing
5-10 degree cooler will turn the thick sausages into fine cobwebs, id try 25-35mm retract speed
could also try upping print acceleration to 750 (prusa default)

[Anonymous No.1843351]

>>1843342
>Going slower

Interesting, thanks anon, but if it takes slower to retract wouldnt that mean more stringing? Ill try it regardless, just trying to male sense of it.

[Anonymous No.1843358]

>>1843351
if you pull to fast you just strech the plastic

[Anonymous No.1843365]

>>1843358
Oh shit, that makes sense now. Explains the sasauges as you said.

[Anonymous No.1843380]

Is there anything that would cause my extruder's steps/mm to change over time?

My ender 3 came at stock with 93 steps/mm. I calibrated it to 117 steps/mm, and then a few days later I tried recalibrating it and found it was 106 steps/mm, and now a few weeks later it's at 114 steps/mm.

[Anonymous No.1843384]

>>1843380
Your post is what I experienced last week. My calibration had me go to 103.33, and then 114.40.

The change over time could be build up in your hot end. If you never took it apart. I would take it apart and see.
>Pic related is from last week.

[Anonymous No.1843386]

>>1843380
Plastic buildup on the extruder gear, different filament, filament that has a wonky diameter or wonky roundness, crap being built up in your hot end.

[Anonymous No.1843410]

>>1842519
Hi, trying to translate a simple (ish) object to a 3d printable design. I've physically measured all my lines, angles would come together if software allowed me to move/rotate accurately sized lines on a grid.
Is there any good software for this? Sketchup is shit, constantly moving the wrong things. Line points wont snap along with other jankiness. Don't want to learn a whole software for one print, it doesnt need to be anything fancy.
Thanks.

[Anonymous No.1843414]

>>1843410
Just get Fusion360.

[Anonymous No.1843415]

>>1843410
If you're comfortable with code: OpenSCAD.

[Anonymous No.1843416]

>>1843415
Not the guy you replied to, but i like to program as a hobby, and going to college for it. Whats the limit on 3d designing until you ha e to switch to fusion360 for example

[Anonymous No.1843417]

>>1843416
Your mental sanity, might as well start with Fusion or Solidworks from the get-go.

[Anonymous No.1843426]

>>1843416
There's no limit but complex shapes can be quite a pain.

If your part can be constructed with just addition and subtraction of simple geometric shapes like cuboids and cylinders, then it's quite easy to do in OpenSCAD.

For more complex stuff you probably want to look at third party libraries or do things like use a 2d CAD to draw the outline and then import and extrude it in OpenSCAD.

[Anonymous No.1843427]

I made a combined filament guide and chonky filament sensor holder, just need to put the skr board in to get it working.
Its surprising how much taller the geared extruders are, nothing premade fits.

[Anonymous No.1843453]

>>1843289
he can't, cause he's wrong. your body doesn't detect low O2 levels, it detects high CO2 levels, causing panic. that's why CO is so deadly - your body can't even tell that the O2 is being displaced.

>>1843250
edgy retard, and so is that ethot

anyway, the mask hysteria/shortage seems to be over, why are we talking about it? aren't you already making earsavers, anon?

[Anonymous No.1843457]

So I want an actual factual Leatherman or other multi-tool (folding pliers) NOT a case or slide for a multi-tool but the actual 3D model *of* a multitool. I've been paging through thingiverse and found absolute dick. Any ideas? I really don't want to model myself. Is there a better way to search thingiverse?

[Anonymous No.1843459]

>>1843457
not gonna find it on thingiverse.
I like grabcad a lot.
https://grabcad.com/library?page=1&time=all_time&sort=recent&query=leatherman

[Anonymous No.1843485]

Can someone explain why I cannot print usable m3/m4 threads with my photon but my duplicator i3 prints them just fine.

[Anonymous No.1843488]

>>1843250
CO is different than CO2 anon

[Anonymous No.1843497]

I accidentally brought a roll of 2.85mm ABS. How do I convert my ender 3 to accept this filament?

[Anonymous No.1843500]

>>1843427
cool I made a similar thing (snaps onto x-axis in the same spot) based on this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3292465
benefits: can detect a tangle
downsides: the roller on the switch is noisy with retracts (but the switch without a roller introduced too much drag)

[Anonymous No.1843502]

I've been getting pretty good results from my Ender 3 for a few months now in both functional and mini/terrain printing, and I've been thinking about using Craigslist and similar sites to provide printing and design services to people who don't want to get their own printer and figure it out. Anyone else have any experience printing stuff for other people?

[Anonymous No.1843505]

>>1843502
>Anyone else have any experience printing stuff for other people?
Don't just print for other people, margins are too damn slim compared to those huge printfarms. Money in 3D-printing is made by reselling printers or filament (dying market thanks to the Chinese), design work (and you better be good at it) or training.

[Anonymous No.1843507]

>>1843500
This one seems to be quiet, its got two bearings inside it that makes it surprisingly heavy.
Didn't know about that type, but I got this one because occasionally with some prints the extruder misses steps, I'm hoping this can detect that. I think its when its doing some super thin infills between walls using stealthchop.

[Anonymous No.1843509]

>>1843500
why not build one with a single ball bearing and inductive probe
0 drag

[Anonymous No.1843511]

>>1843509
can an inductive probe detect filament

[Anonymous No.1843516]

>>1843511
It detects the steel ball riding ontop
If no filament, ball falls and probe toggles

[Anonymous No.1843519]

>>1843505
How would margins be too slim? Filament is cheap and I would have basically no overhead, just using the printer I already have. I'm not trying to start a new career or anything, just help people out and make a few bucks while getting more use out of my printer.

[Anonymous No.1843522]

>>1843459
fug, that's awesome. thanks anon.

[Anonymous No.1843531]

>>1843516
oh neat that's a good idea

[Anonymous No.1843536]

>>1843035
Hmm okay, I will check the nozzle. I dont think its too hot, it didnt work at 200 either.
Do you think it might also be just too fast or is 18mms good enough for a 0.8 nozzle?

[Anonymous No.1843554]

I just got a job in additive manufacturing working with metal powder laser melting printers. I don't start for another couple of weeks.

Does anybody have any experience with these types of machines? Whats it like to work with them? anything i should be concerned about?

I'm pretty sure the company uses positive air pressure dust masks when working with the powder

[Anonymous No.1843583]

If you were to name a new brand of Filaments, how would you name it?
My ideas:
Benchy Fuel
FFFFilament
F4
Extrudr

[Anonymous No.1843584]

>>1843583
/diy/'s magical cum string

[Anonymous No.1843585]

>>1843583
"3d Printer Filament" so every search engine in the world sees you first and every moron on the planet knows what you're selling.

[Anonymous No.1843586]

>>1843584
based
>>1843585
that makes it sound like chinese shit quality filament

[Anonymous No.1843596]

Are double extruder printers any good or just a meme?

[Anonymous No.1843611]

>>1843596
Mostly just a meme unless you really like the double color aesthetic and can't figure out filament swapping

[Anonymous No.1843633]

>>1843497
extruder + bowden + hotend/nozzle
y'know, stuff the filament interacts with.

[Anonymous No.1843646]

>>1843583
Filamints. Every spool smells like mint and each order comes with a tin of our Fill-a-mints gum.

[Anonymous No.1843647]

okay, stupid question. I have my .stl from Fusion360 and I need a slicer. My printer is shipping (monoprice delta). Where do I get the slicer program? Which one do I use?

[Anonymous No.1843653]

>>1843647
Seems most of the popular ones have profiles available for it.

[Anonymous No.1843654]

I should really link where I found that
https://mpminidelta.com/

[Anonymous No.1843656]

>>1843646
i unironically like this, prints smell kinda bad.

[Anonymous No.1843715]

>>1843596
It's really for when you need to print two different materials with different temperature profiles. Like ABS + PLA or something. It's useful primarily for more dense supports using a material that doesn't bond as strongly to your primary material.

[Anonymous No.1843717]

>>1843342
>>1843358
Just an update, this is my latest print result, I ended up staying at 6mm distance, and went all the way down to 5mm speed.

on the right image I have circled in red, is this because I left my retract distant at 6mm instead of dialing it down?

[Anonymous No.1843784]

>>1842646
>buying a silent board instead of a skr mini e3
for what purpose

[Anonymous No.1843861]

Anyone here purchased a ~$250 3D printer, and satisfied with the results? Not satisfied? I would like to possibly get one as a hobby tool

[Anonymous No.1843862]

>>1843861
I bought a $179 one and it's been fantastic.

[Anonymous No.1843882]

>>1843717
Tell us how the nozzle travelled on that layer.

That is, was most of that layer printed from left-bottom to right-top and the circled area from right-top to left-bottom (or the other way round)?

If so, then this has nothing to do with retraction.

[Anonymous No.1843893]

[Anonymous No.1843894]

>>1843893

[Anonymous No.1843895]

>>1843894
Do these stubs have a name other than stringing?
How do I prevent them?

[Anonymous No.1843901]

When I print with PETG, the top layer won't stick well to the infill and a few printed lines curl at the edges.
What can I do to fix that? I'm using S3D.

[Anonymous No.1843906]

>>1842617
mexibro, I could buy it and ship it to you

[Anonymous No.1843944]

>>1843151
turn your flow rate down... cooling up...
your issue is you think retraction is the only thing causing this problem, and completely tunnel vision

[Anonymous No.1843946]

>>1843717
turn your flow rate down

[Anonymous No.1843948]

>>1843882
Ohh, I think i can do that in octoprint.

[Anonymous No.1843955]

>>1843717
thats from speed difference (and thus filament temperature) the diagonal lines on the right column are different too if you look closely
you'll likely wont get rid of that

[Anonymous No.1843956]

Why do I get a small layer shift on the second layer only? This is the bottom of the print, if you look closely you can see the second layer offset in the round holes. I checked the belts, z screw binding, even gave some more current to the z motor. First layer is not too squished and perfectly sticking. Overextrusion maybe? I'm using a matte pla that's quite thick.

[Anonymous No.1843957]

>>1843906
Dang man, that would be fucking great. Added my email so we can be in contact.
[e-mail]

[Anonymous No.1844044]

>>1843901
Use denser infil?

[Anonymous No.1844055]

>>1843956
did you accidentally hit the printer?

[Anonymous No.1844057]

>>1843956
what is printer sitting on

[Anonymous No.1844064]

>>1843956
It looks like you lost steps. Maybe the acceleration is too high for that wall layer? A stepper motor has no encoder to know where it is so if it jams it will just click into to the next step in its rotation as if nothing happened.

[Anonymous No.1844087]

I need a need a new print bed because the stock magnetic print bed on my ender 3 is starting to make my prints warp and peel off the bed gradually after some time.
Should l consider garolite or PEI?

[Anonymous No.1844092]

How do I get smoother finishes (particularly bottom side) on thin hovering prints like this?

[Anonymous No.1844093]

>>1844092
supports
check non-plannar 3d printing too

[Anonymous No.1844101]

>>1844087
Why don't you guys just use glue?
I use this wood/cardboard glue that I thinly spread through my print bed with a card and then becomes transparent and the first layer just werks. To take it off I just peel it or wash it with warm water.

[Anonymous No.1844102]

>>1843715
>>1843611
Wouldnt it be possible to actually print quicker?
You could use both nozzles when printing parallel infil lines.

[Anonymous No.1844103]

>>1844093
damn, i was hoping better cooling would do the trick
thanks

[Anonymous No.1844105]

>>1844087
easy-peelzy is expensive but really nice
i'm sure there are cheap knockoffs that aren't half bad too

[Anonymous No.1844106]

>>1844103
Nah, the reason why it's like that is that filament 3d printing has problems with diagonals because it prints by moving first through the X axis and then through the Y in layers.
That's why I recommend you to check out non-plannar 3d printing because that pretty much fixes it, although I don't really know about the splicers who support it. Suppossedly, it also reduces the life of your nozzle/3d printer dramatically.

[Anonymous No.1844118]

Back-right corner of my retraction test keeps getting messed up. Any ideas?

[Anonymous No.1844120]

>>1844118
is that corner lifting from the build surface?

[Anonymous No.1844122]

>>1844120
I don't think so. The whole thing is pretty stuck on there until the bed cools down below 60C

I'm also using BLTouch, so the entire thing should be same height.

It's PETG. I should note that I recently started using Linear Advance which might be related?

[Anonymous No.1844154]

My bed no longer has "stick" to it pieces will slide off now. Can only theorize why perhaps the PLA absorbed moisture. Would increasing the bed and nozzle temp slightly fix it?

[Anonymous No.1844156]

>>1844154
Might be the print surface. Have you cleaned it thoroughly with alcohol?

[Anonymous No.1844173]

>>1844118
Still having issues with the back-right corner...

Definitely not lifting from the bed. Maybe retraction settings?

Not sure what could be going wrong...

[Anonymous No.1844174]

Hey guys. I just clogged my CR-10 hotend with ninjaflex filament. I'm replacing the nozzle entirely because I have a bajillion spares, but I need to get this rubbery coating off the inside so I can print some PLA.

Can I just put the hotend in the autoclave to melt the rubber? Acetone and other solvents don't work on ninjaflex. Or should I take the time to melt it off with a soldering gun?

[Anonymous No.1844176]

>>1844174
> Acetone and other solvents don't work on ninjaflex.

Caustic soda maybe? Just follow safety precautions...

[Anonymous No.1844184]

>>1844173
do you have any end gcode that boops it on the way out?

[Anonymous No.1844185]

How do you clean up support areas in the cleanest way?
Do you just sand the last bit down, or do you go at it with a scalpel? Solvents?

[Anonymous No.1844191]

>>1844185
set the support gap appropriately and you wont have cleanup. breaks off and looks good.
the cura stock 0.3 is way too big
for final touch i use a thin steel plate with a burr from cutting and draw it over

[Anonymous No.1844193]

>>1844184
Only custom gcode added at the end is for a beep, not a boop.

I do have 'Wipe while retracting' enabled in Slic3r. Let me try printing with that turned off...

[Anonymous No.1844391]

Thanks everyone for helping me with my ender 3, This is my first print after troubleshooting, and I am very happy with the results. I noticed a bunch of impressions of my nozzle in the print, I am guessing to avoid this is to enable "z hop on retraction"?

[Anonymous No.1844393]

Any ideas for why my filament (PETG) builds up on the nozzle over the course of a print?

Not really the first layer. It just sort of accumulates on the nozzle as it is printing.

Temps too high/low? Or would it be a retraction issue?

[Anonymous No.1844423]

>>1844092
lower temp 5-15 degrees
increase min layer time/print slower
better part cooling
try any of the above and you will see improvements
and yes you can get those completely smooth(way better than mine), disregard the retard who replied to you

[Anonymous No.1844441]

>>1844393
thats pretty standard of petg
you could try enable/disable wiping the nozzle and mess with your combing and zhop settings

[Anonymous No.1844547]

Is this normal for PLA on build-tak? I thought maybe the bed was too high and the nozzle grinded PLA into the buildtak so I lowered the bed slightly but now prints won't stick without a raft.

[Anonymous No.1844548]

>>1844391
I'm a noob, but do you actually mean "z hop on layer change"?

[Anonymous No.1844552]

>>1844548
hes talking about this

[Anonymous No.1844581]

How do I clean up all this messy support, some part are just floating and a bunch are barely printable

[Anonymous No.1844587]

>>1844581
enable tree supports
rotate the model probably

[Anonymous No.1844595]

>>1842782
You inspired me anon.
I already lost the bit from my box of screws, at which point I discovered they were not in fact torx but some proprietary bullshit.

[Anonymous No.1844596]

>>1844581
The solution is to delete the figurine and print a useful part instead. Preferably one you designed yourself.

[Anonymous No.1844609]

>>1844595
Sweet.

[Anonymous No.1844617]

Do any of you have a plan or know where to find the plan for this wonder?
Just asking for a friend...

[Anonymous No.1844619]

>>1843647
Just use Cura. Free and good, plus easy to use.

[Anonymous No.1844639]

>>1844617
Don't have it specifically but I have a selection of buttplugs you might definitely like

[Anonymous No.1844650]

>>1843956 here, I solved it by randomly stumbling on a r*ddit post, it was simply a matter of Z rollers. Basically the plastic rollers on the far side of the Z gantry were too tight, and the Z motor had a hard time leveling the X axis during the first layers. This is probably due to the additional weight of the direct drive conversion. I ordered a dual-z motor kit just in case.

tl;dr do not overtighten your rollers

[Anonymous No.1844653]

>>1842782
>>1844595

[Anonymous No.1844655]

It's here boys, unfortunately gotta work the next three days so I'll have to set it up then

[Anonymous No.1844656]

>>1844548
Could be, ill try either one and see.

[Anonymous No.1844658]

>>1844655
>picture of box
gb2reddit

[Anonymous No.1844659]

>>1844658
Sorry do I need my nasty toenails in pic for that /k/ feel?

[Anonymous No.1844661]

>>1844658
There you happy? Now it's a picture of stuff in a box.

[Anonymous No.1844715]

>>1844655
those are some small feet or a huge box?

[Anonymous No.1844756]

>>1844715
qt girl feet :3

[Anonymous No.1844761]

>>1844661
why have a pm2 if you're gonna carry it tip down? at that point just get a military

[Anonymous No.1844767]

>>1844102
prob only for very specific prints and on specific area. the added weight would slow down the rest of the print.
maybe printing multiple small copies.
mainly i think it would be good for multiple types of filaments, like pla and ptfe. idk wat for tho

[Anonymous No.1844776]

>>1844761
why not just get a an xacto and not try so hard?

[Anonymous No.1844780]

>>1844595
Those green torx bits from Menards suck ass. Just sayin'.

[Anonymous No.1844865]

>>1844423
thanks. lowered temp and went down to 20mm/s, and got results closer to what your picture shows.
looking into cooling solutions now

[Anonymous No.1844869]

>>1844093
Does anything support non planar slicing

[Anonymous No.1844905]

What is a good slicer program? I'm using the one Ender 3 pro provided called creality slicer.

[Anonymous No.1844914]

>>1844905
Cura.

[Anonymous No.1844921]

>>1844655
baby feets

[Anonymous No.1844922]

>>1844761
tip down masterrace reportan

it's like your tip-up shits all retarded and why would you do that

[Anonymous No.1844979]

>>1844761
Because I've always carried all my knives tip down and don't want to relearn my draw. It's also why I don't carry my autonomy II since it only allows tip up carry.

[Anonymous No.1844985]

>>1844756
>>1844921
I'm a size 10 mens. It's just perspective and the pants being too long covering the boot.

[Anonymous No.1844998]

>>1844922
Based tip down bro

[Anonymous No.1845001]

>>1842519
dafuq is that thing in the middle on the bottom row of the pic? that a flesh light?

[Anonymous No.1845002]

Fookin ametures.

[Anonymous No.1845003]

>>1845001
fly catcher

[Anonymous No.1845025]

>>1844922
>>1844998
whats an advantage of tip down?
i've got an emerson wave endura. the wave won't work if its used tip-down. the knife is ready to be used once the knife is opened, no fiddling with your grip, can easily be done one-handed

[Anonymous No.1845028]

>>1844661

[Anonymous No.1845037]

>>1845028
How about something a bit more on topic

[Anonymous No.1845040]

>>1845028
lmao gottem

[Anonymous No.1845043]

>>1845037
Now that's how you glocknade

[Anonymous No.1845116]

Any anon in the US want to make some money? My printer at work broke. The place I used before has not gotten back to me with so they're either dead or busy. I need a few pieces printed. Simple shit, it's a 2"x1" rectangle with some holes and a smaller rectangle on top with another hole. I would need about 8 of them. Nothing fancy, PLA would do as long as they're not coming apart and match the shape and features. Contact me at ackman333 at proton mail dot com if you're interested. We can talk about pricing and shipping and stuff.

[Anonymous No.1845152]

>>1843323
Can confirm. I had the same problem. Turns out the hotend was fucked. Replaced it, got the bowden tube butted up flush against the nozzle, and things have been much, much better since then. Highly recommended.

[Anonymous No.1845156]

>>1843861
I started out with a Monoprice Maker Select Mini v2. It was small, so you can't go around making huge prints or anything, but it was damn easy to work with. Literally pull it out of the box and print. If you're starting out, it's an easy $180 starting point. Would recommend upgrading later, though. It's not a good long term printer. I'm glad I jumped to my Ender 3 Pro down the line.

[Anonymous No.1845189]

>>1845156
>>1843861
I have a ender 2 got it for $240 canuckbucks and I'm really enjoying it, it's not perfect but it's teaching me a ton, my goal is to eventually build corexy but that's a way off

[Anonymous No.1845262]

Finally got around to vibration dampening my MK2S, crazy how big of a difference a concrete slate and some foam makes. Now the fan is the loudest thing there, might change it to a noctua at some point in the future.

[Anonymous No.1845263]

>>1844581
use prusaslicer, there you can

[Anonymous No.1845346]

>>1844587
>tree supports
This. Literally the best thing ever for conventional 3D printing

[Anonymous No.1845348]

I'm running into grinding filament issues mid-print when trying to print out an RPi case.

I have pretty conservative retraction settings - 3mm at 20mm/s
Tried raising the temps a bit.
Tried cutting print speeds in half.
Ensured there are no clogs inside the nozzle.

Any other ideas? Seems to happen around the same point each time...

[Anonymous No.1845350]

>>1845348
In case it matters, using PETG on an Ender 3 with a metal extruder.

[Anonymous No.1845368]

>>1845348
>3mm @ 20mm/s
is this direct drive?
what does the filament look like? is the filament being ground down and thus unable to be pushed through?
I assume you looked through this
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/grinding-filament/ given what you listed as things you tried.
have you tried tightening the tension arm on the extruder?
any knots in your filament/do you have a difference brand to test with?

[Anonymous No.1845373]

>>1845368
> is this direct drive?
No, it's bowden.

> what does the filament look like? is the filament being ground down and thus unable to be pushed through?
Pic is of last 4 attempts at printing. Filament seems to be ground down and the extruder can't get a good grip.

> have you tried tightening the tension arm on the extruder?
I've loosened it. I would have expected tightening it would exacerbate the issue.

> any knots in your filament/do you have a difference brand to test with?
No nots. Unfortunately I only have 1 brand (Overture) in a few different colors.

[Anonymous No.1845380]

>>1845373
did you just do the metal extruder upgrade before this happened, or has it been going on a while?
did you clean the gear part of the extruder? looks like some of it is ground smooth vs
being bitten into. sometimes bits of plastic get stuck in there. an old toothbrush works well to clean it out.
check tightness of bowden connections, especially the tube to connectors. maybe there's too much play in the tube.
also just noticed that its happening at the same time each print; might be the specific model/slicing causes an overload of retractions. can you check the gcode profiler at that point of the print?
cura has a setting for max retracts and i think minimum distance for retract. there's a lot more than distance and speed.

[Anonymous No.1845386]

>>1845380
> did you just do the metal extruder upgrade before this happened, or has it been going on a while?
Just to be clear, I upgraded the extruder a while ago. I upgraded the hotend to an all-metal micro-swiss hotend recently (about a week ago)

> did you clean the gear part of the extruder?
Yea. Actually replaced it with a brand new one a few days ago. Pretty clean right now.

> also just noticed that its happening at the same time each print; might be the specific model/slicing causes an overload of retractions. can you check the gcode profiler at that point of the print? cura has a setting for max retracts and i think minimum distance for retract. there's a lot more than distance and speed.
My minimum distance to retract is 1mm. I'm using prusa-slicer so I'm not sure how I can adjust the max-retracts.

[Anonymous No.1845412]

is upgrading to an all metal hotend generally a better idea if you want to print a variety of filaments? even if it's still a bowden setup?

[Anonymous No.1845430]

>oh look a threedee printer, did you know houses can be threee deee printed too?

What normie shit triggers you related to 3dp?

[Anonymous No.1845437]

>>1845430
None because I'm not an autistic manchild and I think it's pretty cool when people take an interest in my hobbies. Even if it's just a shallow one.

3d printed houses are cool. Go hero yourself.

[Anonymous No.1845440]

>>1845412
All metal is always better, especially in heat retention.

>>1845430
>''Can you print this?''
When it's a metal part. Or an injection molded part. Or fuckhuge. Or has massive overhangs.
Since I teach engineering and 3DP in particular, I hate it when students design components without thinking about manufacturability or assembly. Yes, just directly put that round part on the build plate with some support under it and expect it to fit snugly into a hole after cleaning up. I'm sure it'll go well.

[Anonymous No.1845442]

>>1845440
ok cool seems like that's what I'm getting from research too, I want to do petg, flexiible and carbon fiber seems like all metal should cover those

[Anonymous No.1845443]

>>1845430
normies never talk about 3dp with me
they may ask, what i print and give me a weird look when i say mostly calibration parts (i mean thats half the fun)
at least not so'y shit or baby groot

[Anonymous No.1845449]

>>1845442
If you're gonna print carbon fiber, don't forget to grab a better nozzle that can handle the abrasiveness.

Hardens steel or the ruby meme if you don't like money.

[Anonymous No.1845451]

>>1845449
hardened (black) or stanless steel is there a difference?

[Anonymous No.1845453]

>>1845386
Well I just fixed my issue. Enabled "Only retract when crossing perimeters" and it seems to be working perfectly now.

Some stringing on the infills, but it won't be visible once complete.

[Anonymous No.1845454]

>>1845451
I *think* hardened steel is better for abrasive materials. But I'm not sure...

As long as it's not brass or steel-plated brass it should be fine.

[Anonymous No.1845457]

>>1845449
>>1845451
>>1845454
Hardened steel is better to reist abrasive materials, both for nozzles and extruder gears. Ruby nozzles only make sense if you're working in a production environment where nobody will miss a couple hundred bucks through the sea of carbon-filled nylon you're wading through.

t. engineerfag

[Anonymous No.1845458]

>>1845454
cool I'm thinking of doing something retarded like adding a mosquito onto my ender 2 wish me luck!

[Anonymous No.1845460]

>>1845451
stainless is fucking stupid for a nozzle
you want high heat conductivity

[Anonymous No.1845461]

>>1845457
Ruby nozzles aren't that expensive.
The Chinese sell them for 30 bucks.

[Anonymous No.1845464]

>>1845460
Doesn't really matter in the grand scheme of things, if you want thermal stability you're better off with a longer nozzle, bigger heater block and bigger heating element (Volcano).

>>1845461
As a hobbyist you won't notice a practical difference between genuine E3D hardened steel nozzles and chink fake rubies - unless posting or chinkiness fucks you over, so go with genuine hardened in my opinion, unless you like pretty rubies on your printer. As a professional you can't afford to be chinked, so stick with the originals regardless.

[Anonymous No.1845466]

While everyone's talking about nozzles, what is a good nozzle material for printing with filaments like PETG that like to stick and gunk up around?

Less worried about abrasion and more about print quality...

[Anonymous No.1845469]

>>1845457
>>1845460
reason I asked about stainless steel cause Mellow store on ali has some copper plated bullshit but looks like stainless steel

[Anonymous No.1845470]

>>1845464
>chink fake rubies
If by "fake" you mean synthetic, then yes of course they are.
Just like the Western ruby nozzles.

It makes absolutely no sense to use mined rubies for this - they're retardly expensive and have lots of impurities.

[Anonymous No.1845471]

>>1845464
>Doesn't really matter in the grand scheme
so thats why e3d sells plated copper nozzles
guess im just imagining things
>As a hobbyist you won't notice a practical difference between genuine E3D hardened steel nozzles and chink fake rubies
lol you can even spot print differences between two brass nozzles
ive bought several chink nozzles and let me tell you, they are all shit
They always make the backchamfer 5x to big and that fucks with extrusion and retract
>>1845466
search for coated ones (not on ali)

[Anonymous No.1845475]

>>1845466
Best solution I've found so far is to stock spares and swap them often. Burning and quenching seems to make PETG stick less to brass.

>>1845469
E3D started this trend with nickel-plated copper heater blocks for high temperture printing, such as with PEEK. Regardless, you don't want plated copper or stainless, you want hardened steel or tool steel if you want abrasive resistance on a budget. Plated copper is mainly for high temperature.

>>1845470
I mean fake by ripping the design from Olsson and producing it at a reduced quality with none of the quality control.

>>1845471
>so thats why e3d sells plated copper nozzles
No, that's for staying intact at high temperature, not abrasive resistance.

>>1845471
>lol you can even spot print differences between two brass nozzles
I know, chinkshit sucks at manufacturing and QC, but I haven't found statistically significant defects in printing yet, unless a specific nozzle really was buggered up from the factory. Throw it away, get a new one, they're cheap.
I'm all for buying genuine stuff by the way, big rock candy mountain isn't going to save you when the going gets though - the local guy will.
>ive bought several chink nozzles and let me tell you, they are all shit
Haven't had this experience during several big orders for nozzles intended to be used in printers for students.
>They always make the backchamfer 5x to big and that fucks with extrusion and retract
Care to explain this one?

[Anonymous No.1845477]

>>1845475
>I mean fake by ripping the design from Olsson and producing it at a reduced quality with none of the quality control.
That's not what a fake is. It's just a rip-off or clone then.
It would be a fake if they'd advertise it as an original Olsson Ruby Nozzle(TM).

[Anonymous No.1845483]

>>1845477
This post is fake.

[Anonymous No.1845494]

>>1845453
guess it was the overwhelming # of retractions. glad you were able to figure it out

[Anonymous No.1845519]

Can you electroplate something printed from conductive filament?

[Anonymous No.1845544]

>>1845519
"Conductive" filament is normally PLA with some conductive additives. It's not metal, and it should barely be considered conductive.

So no. You cannot electroplate it.

[Anonymous No.1845599]

>>1845262
Are you out of your fucking mind? What do you do when the washing machine is running? Why can you afford a Prusa but not a decent table to put it on?

[Anonymous No.1845709]

Since last night my printer isn't maintaining temperature in the hotend while printing. It holds just fine beforehand including during the initial move where the print head goes to home, but as soon as it starts moving after that the temperature starts dropping as if the heater had turned off. Any idea what could be the issue? It's an Anycubic i3 Mega, and I'm slicing with Cura 4.3.0. It's been working fine up until now, and I hadn't made any changes to software or firmware.

[Anonymous No.1845734]

>>1845709
Clean + reassemble the hotend maybe?

[Anonymous No.1845759]

I'm thinking of generating a gcode file with a large grid of spikes with varying retraction lengths and speeds and maybe variable temperature in the vertical position. Because I'd rather set and forget a test than repetitively walk back and forth a hundred times. Has someone already done this?

[Anonymous No.1845763]

Is this where we talk about 3D scanners?

[Anonymous No.1845765]

>>1845763
Go nuts.

[Anonymous No.1845768]

>>1845765
Thanks
What would be a good place to start when I want to scan small objects?
Like 40k mini small?

[Anonymous No.1845793]

>>1845475
>Care to explain this one?
simple
having a big bag chamfer is essentially the same as having a small bowden gap
i think we all know bowden gaps lead to funky shit.
You cannot really dial in such a nozzle, results will always be subpar. The only chinknozzle i had without this issue is the creality stock one

[Anonymous No.1845863]

Can you help me what could be the problem? I'm using PETG and I have blobs of plastic during layers randomly. Also my extruder skips sometimes this is pretty random too. I have no skip in several layers the in a single layer it skips multiple time. I calibrated the extruder but something not good.

[Anonymous No.1845867]

>>1845759
these exist on thingiverse

[Anonymous No.1845973]

>>1845867
I can only see variable temps, no variable retraction, and they all take ages to print.

[Anonymous No.1845990]

Just got a photon zero and had a stupid question. While a piece is printing, is it supposed to stick to the bottom of the reservoir a bit? Like, the build plate will pull up, and it's obvious it's lifting the film up a little bit before it snaps back down. Is this normal?

[Anonymous No.1845991]

Hey, is filamentcolors.xyz still an active project and worth contributing filament samples to? I've got 3 they don't have listed and was considering it.

Along those lines, are there any other database projects I could be contributing to while I'm in a charitable mood?

[Anonymous No.1846019]

>>1845990

Yes that's how it works. You should've probably read more about SLA printing before buying the thing...

[Anonymous No.1846102]

>>1845768
DYI something, check thingverse I'm reasonably certain I saw a few cheapo projects for tiny objects.

Be sure to share any 40k models for minis. I'm in the middle of reprinting arms for my knock-off space marine. Things on thingverse don't really scratch the itch.

[Anonymous No.1846104]

>>1846102
Literally second print on my Chiron.
I'm getting terrible first layer wall adhesion but only there and only there consistently. Suggestions?

[Anonymous No.1846107]

how durable is the resin used in resin printers?
was thinking of buying a resin printer mainly for cosplay purposes and i want to make sure that the resin can hold up to accidental drops and stuff.
of course im not expecting something thats indestructible. just something that wont crumble apart to the smallest touch.

oh and yeah, i know just a regular 3d printer will be cheaper but 3d printers wont be able to achieve the level of detail im looking for.

[Anonymous No.1846113]

does this make sense for a first print support wise (upper) or should I flip the model (lower) or something else?

I thought there would be more options in CURA slicer- it's set to 50º 20% infill.

[Anonymous No.1846123]

>>1846113
What ever touches the support will look worse. You can enable the rest of the setting in the menus.

[Anonymous No.1846132]

Im starting experience these on prints, when I googled about it, they talked about too much pressure on the nozzle, I already have retraction enabled, and I also have "retract on layer change" for some reason I thought I had a "z hop on layer change" but can't find it in cura ultimaker.

Any other suggestions? I only believe this is a layer thing since its consistent on each layer change.

[Anonymous No.1846136]

>>1846132
if it's only in one spot on the print, it's probably a z-scar
cura has an option to randomize, or favor corners for layer change, but I can't remember what it's called

[Anonymous No.1846146]

>>1846136
oh yeah, I remember CHEP had a youtube video about putting those in corners.

[Anonymous No.1846197]

>>1846113
That model would probably benefit from bisecting it right down the center. That would put all the supports on the insides of the legs where they will be less obvious. Alternatively try Cura's experimental tree support.

[Anonymous No.1846198]

>>1846102
DYI something?
Was that a misspelling or an actual thing?

[Anonymous No.1846268]

Hey, resin printing anons, do you use Chitubox chinkware, PrusaSlicer brandfaggotry, or something else? Why do you do it?

[Anonymous No.1846413]

>>1846268
I use the software my Photon came with only to slice, and I use PrusaSlicer to generate supports because it's leaps and bounds better. I never got around to using Chitubox because I don't know what features it really adds and I'm not feeling like anything is missing from PrusaSlicer.

[Anonymous No.1846462]

What's up with these ripples on the sides of my prints? They appeared recently, never had them before. I don't think it's ghosting/ringing since I'm printing pretty slow (30mm/s) and I assume I'd see more artifacts/ripples near the holes if it was ghosting.

It's been so long since I've had printer issues that I don't remember where to start troubleshooting

[Anonymous No.1846465]

>>1846462
extrusion issue?

[Anonymous No.1846469]

>>1846465
Can't be. It's neither over- nor under-extruding, the prints look pretty much perfect otherwise

[Anonymous No.1846473]

>>1846469
I've had problems similar to yours that resolved themselves when I changed filament brands and a fresh nozzle.

[Anonymous No.1846474]

>>1846473
>changed filament brands
Can't do, I am forced to use this filament brand and specific roll, no alternative. I'll try swapping out the nozzle if no other suggestions come along, though.

[Anonymous No.1846486]

>>1846474
it looks like very mild under extrusion to me.

try a test print with higher extruder temps if you can't change brands.

[Anonymous No.1846492]

>>1846462
ghosting, tighten your belts or lower your acceleration

[Anonymous No.1846526]

The fuck happened here.

[Anonymous No.1846528]

>>1843380
>>1843384
I've literally never calibrated my printer, am I a fucking idiot?

[Anonymous No.1846538]

>>1846198
If you check thingverse, there's a few things you can make as a tiny scanner as much as with a laser pointer and your phone.

[Anonymous No.1846543]

>>1843380
>>1843384
Guys you are getting it all wrong.
Steps/mm are actually how many steps the motor has to do, to move the filament back (or forward) by 1mm. That's why you need to calibrate the esteps without actually extruding the filament. If you have the filament pass through the hotend, the esteps are skewed by many factors (bowden tube friction, hotend partial clogs, temeprature, filament quality, etc)
I calibrate my esteps by actually pushing 100mm of filament OUT of the printer, and I only do it once (you do it again only if you change extruder gears)

Then I calibrate the actual flow by printing a hollow cube with 2 perimeters, and check if the shell is 0.8mm with a caliper.

[Anonymous No.1846552]

>>1846543
My calibration came out fine, you're looking at my extruder from a few weeks ago.

[Anonymous No.1846553]

>>1846462
can be a shot bearing on this axis

[Anonymous No.1846556]

>>1846526
wrong homing axis direction

https://youtu.be/rxmm5bHym1c

[Anonymous No.1846747]

Just copped 2 spools of Sunlu PET-G for 36€ total

[Anonymous No.1846754]

>>1846747
That's more expensive than the PETG filament I regularly buy.

[Anonymous No.1846760]

>>1846754
A month ago a single spool was 30€ here

[Anonymous No.1846775]

>>1846747
speaking of PET-G, what should i be putting down on my glass bed to make the damn things stick?

[Anonymous No.1846782]

>>1846775
Isn't it just gluestick that everyone recommends? I've never used PETG

[Anonymous No.1846836]

Can anyone explain me the drastic change in quality from one model to the other? Same filament, same settings, just one week difference.
Do I need to clean my nozzle? Dry out my PLA? What do?

[Anonymous No.1846838]

>>1846543
When you put it like that it sounds obvious.

Thanks. I'll recalibrating mine later today.

[Anonymous No.1846841]

>>1846775
PETG is like the stickiest filament material ever. It should stick to glass without any issues.

One issue with PETG is that you need to have the nozzle a bit higher than other materials. Otherwise it will stick to the nozzle instead of the bed.

[Anonymous No.1846846]

>>1846775
>>1846841
I thought PETG tore chunks out of glass?

[Anonymous No.1846849]

>>1846846
It can take chunks out of regular beds easily...

I have a hard time imagining anything taking chunks out of a tempered glass bed. Maybe other types of glass?

[Anonymous No.1846868]

>>1844653
I really like this build

[Anonymous No.1846906]

>>1846836
>Do I need to clean my nozzle? Dry out my PLA?
Yes

[Anonymous No.1846937]

>>1846841
This is it. Get a thick card and level again. It should slide with some resistance, not a lot.

>>1846849
Most beds are borosilicate, which I think is a type of tempered glass or at least stronger than normal glass. It's pyrex. I had Greentec Pro tear out a huge chunk from the middle of my glass bed. I've since replaced it Buildtak flexplate on top of a new glass bed and releveled the nozzle a little higher. It still sticks like a motherfucker. A perfectly sealed bottom layer and a sticky filament can create some ridiculous tension

[Anonymous No.1846940]

why do anons adjust 1st layer with nozzle height instead of 1st layer flow rate is beyond me
you know this fucks with part height?

[Anonymous No.1846955]

>>1846940
>this fucks with part height
If you absolutely need more than 0.1mm vertical precision on an FDM machine, you're either using the wrong manufacturing technology, or you need to buy an FDM machine which compensates for those kinds of issues.

[Anonymous No.1846957]

>>1846955
z is the only axis on a print that is actually defined by mechanic constrains and not extrusion.
i see no reason to not make use of that, but i know im barking on the wrong tree

[Anonymous No.1846959]

>>1846940
Some filaments like PETG absolutely love to stick to nozzles. And specific build surfaces will actually recommend you level a specific way to avoid excess adhesion

[Anonymous No.1846969]

>>1845599
What the fuck do you mean? how is the washing machine related to the operation of the printer? And how is that not a decent table? i don't get it.

[Anonymous No.1846970]

>>1845348
>>1846132
>>1846526
should have bought a you know what

[Anonymous No.1846976]

>>1846969
He's saying you can't run your washing machine and printer at the same time. Unless you have a perfectly balanced washer which is unlikely.

[Anonymous No.1846978]

>>1846969
Because washing machine go brrrr and printer no like that.

Do you understand now?

[Anonymous No.1846989]

>>1844174
Just melt it off

[Anonymous No.1846990]

>>1846978
>>1846976
Please elaborate i still don't get what the issue is

[Anonymous No.1846998]

>>1846990
It's not, we know you don't wash your clothes anyway.

[Anonymous No.1847001]

>>1846990

The fucking CNC hot glue gun needs to be on a rigid surface, if the surface moves it shakes the machine and changes the coordinates.

[Anonymous No.1847002]

>>1846970
>having a small imperfection
>pff should've bought a you know what

KEKW

[Anonymous No.1847003]

>>1847001
but why would the surface move? it's a table anon, not a car

[Anonymous No.1847004]

>>1847003

If the washing machine shakes the table it will be moving.

[Anonymous No.1847008]

>>1846969
You are either painfully stupid or have never washed clothes before. Since we're on 4chan, I'm going to assume both.

[Anonymous No.1847009]

>>1847008
>>1847004
I'm really trying to humor you here but I just don't see it. Padding exists and is a thing that prevents vibration. Am I being tricked here somehow?

[Anonymous No.1847010]

>>1847004
>>1847008
NTAYRT but

I'm not sure why you're so fixated on the washing machine moving. Is yours on 24/7? Do you have so much laundry that it's on more often than it's idle? Yeah, duh, if the washing machine shakes it'll shake the printer, but other than that it's a pretty stable surface most of the time

[Anonymous No.1847013]

This isn't trolling he is this stupid.

[Anonymous No.1847017]

>>1847013
You can call me names but at least explain the issue. How is it not a decent table?

[Anonymous No.1847051]

>>1847017
The fact it shakes like a fucking chinese earthquake.

[Anonymous No.1847068]

>>1847051
It's sturdy though. I don't understand how it will shake.

[Anonymous No.1847083]

>>1847051
>>1847010

[Anonymous No.1847104]

>>1842519
Does anyone have any good tutorials on how to make your own filament? There's a certain kind of paint i want to incorporate into a model and if i just paint it on and it chips then most people couldn't fix it easily

[Anonymous No.1847108]

Anyone can tell me what the issue is with my prints from a description?
Standard Ender 3 with some minor upgrades like bltouch and marlin firmware. Was printing fine but I left it sit for a while after changing a few marlin settings (retraction iirc) but now getting gaps between the lines of PLA (e.g. if it's doing a square it's like it's missing output on one entire line and the line it puts out might be thicker or thinner than expected)
I suspect it's either down to the marlin settings or moisture getting into the PLA (I let it sit in a vacuum bag with silica gel for days, didn't do anything) but am not really sure if it could be something else that I should check out first.

[Anonymous No.1847121]

>>1846543
Just did this and holy crap was my initial calibration off... 114 vs 97

Thanks anon. Gonna see if this fixes some of my issues.

[Anonymous No.1847131]

>>1846775
After hearing the horror stories of PETG ripping literal chunks out of the build surface, I got some blue painter's tape and have been using it without issue.

[Anonymous No.1847150]

>>1847004
>>1847008
look at the picture again, the table is not touching the washing machine

[Anonymous No.1847158]

>>1844653
pimp

[Anonymous No.1847291]

>>1847009
physically moving the printer back and forth will cause it to lose zero and fuck with your prints, as nothing is truly rigid. Even solids act like jello. The vibrations from the washer, no matter how much you dampen them, will still be there, always moving the printer as long as you actually wash clothes. The best you could do to counteract the solid jello effect is to put it on the most stable surface possible. i.e. NOT A FUCKING WASHER.

For something like a 3d printer, even a TV tray would be preferable to a fucking washer, where literally shaking is in it's job description.

[Anonymous No.1847295]

It's time to COOM

[Anonymous No.1847301]

>>1846526
You have your extruder set too high. The thrust generated by the exiting filament over powered your Z axis.

[Anonymous No.1847305]

>>1847295
Link for Coom Sorceress

https://anonymousfiles.io/4VVsPrJW/

[Anonymous No.1847307]

>>1847291
>>1847150

[Anonymous No.1847312]

How the fuck do I print TPU on my Chiron without it pulling acrobatics in the FUCKING tube?

[Anonymous No.1847315]

>>1847312
you don't

[Anonymous No.1847317]

>>1847315
It jammed on a 20 hour print 18 hours in.
I'm starting over. I'm going slow but it still fucking goes helical in the tube

[Anonymous No.1847320]

>>1844587
Or try using line supports, and interfaces.

[Anonymous No.1847340]

>>1847317
Use capricorn tubing or just print a direct extruder plate

[Anonymous No.1847367]

/3dpg/ look at the washing machine a little closer. There's a metal shelf above the washing machine that the 3d printer sits on. The entire argument has far less merit than if the printer was directly on the washing machine - which would be a death sentence to a 3d printer.

[Anonymous No.1847369]

>>1843417
This.

You'll have enough other shit to tinker/tune when slicing/printing, fuck making the design element any more frustrating than it needs to be. Use Fusion 360. Don't fall into the trap of thinking it's some shitty toy, it's a very strong suite of tools.

[Anonymous No.1847370]

/sci/ here. I want to make my own model rockets from scratch. Are there any printers that can do steel or aluminium powder yet for under ten grand?

[Anonymous No.1847371]

>>1843485
Slicer settings, I would have thought?

[Anonymous No.1847373]

>>1843519
people won't generally pay a lot for stuff and printing takes a long time, so your choice is to make something small and shitty that takes an hour or two to print, or sell something that takes a day or two to print and sell it for $30 (unless it's something extremely good that people are crying out for).

Either way, you're not making much cash at all and your printer is constantly tied up.

It only really makes sense if you have two or more printers running a non-stop production line, and even then you're making chump change. Also, good luck with those 2 (or more) printers never breaking down or prints never failing lol

[Anonymous No.1847376]

>>1843861
I don't know how much the Ender 3 [Pro] is over there, probably about that, and it's a great entry level printer.

[Anonymous No.1847378]

So do people only post when their printers are working like shit? I remember the ones my class had which were only a couple grand a piece and they ran like clockwork. Is chink shit breaking just the reality of the sub $1000 price point?

[Anonymous No.1847381]

>>1843502
Find a niche and appeal to printerless people that need parts for their hobby. Like people do for old video game consoles. But a different niche since that one is pretty full.

[Anonymous No.1847382]

>>1844905
Cura or Prusa Slic3r. Personally I prefer Cura.

[Anonymous No.1847385]

>>1845262
>obsessed with removing vibrations
>washing machine for a base
fuck me, bro, what's all that about?

[Anonymous No.1847386]

>>1845430
I don't mind talking about it to anybody really, but the only thing that annoys me is people wanting dumb shit printing, which generally involves shit that is huge or a 5 day print etc.

[Anonymous No.1847392]

>>1844617

Fucking tank is a T-62, fucking plebeyans.

[Anonymous No.1847393]

>>1847370
No.

>>1847378
>So do people only post when their printers are working like shit?
There's no need to complain when things are sailing smoothly.
>Is chink shit breaking just the reality of the sub $1000 price point?
It's not always the reality, but you should expect it. Most Ender 3's for example will print fine out of the box unless you go outside of their (admittedly small) scope, when you modify parts yourself, or when some errors slipped past the (similarly small) QC department in chinkville. Go in with the expectation of problems and you'll be fine.

[Anonymous No.1847401]

>>1847373
If you can sell a one dollar worth of filament for ten bucks that takes two hours to print how is that a slim margin? you can fill your bed with the parts and print overnight, the production most certainly isn't the bottleneck imo.

[Anonymous No.1847402]

>>1847385
look at the picture a bit more closely, you might notice a table

[Anonymous No.1847403]

>>1847378
Chinkshit breaks all the time, be ready for that.
But you can get some good printers at under 1000$ for example prusa mk3 which is 800$

[Anonymous No.1847404]

Does this board have a name?

[Anonymous No.1847436]

>>1847404
FlashForge CoreBoard v1.3

[Anonymous No.1847444]

>>1845709
Strip and clean hotend assembly, check for any issues and fix. Failing that, check your heating element and swap it out if needs be, cheap as shit.

[Anonymous No.1847448]

>>1846107
It's not super brittle but it's not that strong either. Imo you would be mad to buy a resin printer for anything but small items, as you would have to build shit in a million pieces, and that's a fuck tonne of post processing (not to mention isopropyl alcohol).
I would seriously reconsider and use FDM. You mention detail, but FDM isn't that bad once you get your shit figured out, and MUCH more suited to cosplay bullshit. If you're printing larger stuff then fine detail and printing lines are less visible anyway.
Don't say I didn't warn you.

[Anonymous No.1847450]

>>1846113
Split it down the middle length-ways then print the two sides laying flat, then print the head separately, if you can be bothered.

If you can't then use the top one, as supports can fuck up detail and you don't want the top of the model all fucked up, like it would be with the lower one.

[Anonymous No.1847455]

>>1846836
>Do I need to clean my nozzle
Possibly
>Dry out my PLA
Doubtful

Difficult to say, but you could try going over everything and check it's all adjusted properly, what printer you using?

[Anonymous No.1847457]

>>1847108
PLA absorbing moisture to the point it fucks up your printing is a meme, unless you live in a literal swamp or take 2 years to get through a spool.

[Anonymous No.1847458]

>>1847301
kek

[Anonymous No.1847461]

>>1847370
lolnope

[Anonymous No.1847465]

>>1847401
>If you can sell a one dollar worth of filament for ten bucks that takes two hours to print how is that a slim margin
You can't. Show me something that fits the above scenario.
I'm pointing more towards the time and inconvenience not being worth the turnover, or at least not unless you can come up with something ingenious, in which case you would already be rich by now.
How much you making from your printer?

[Anonymous No.1847467]

>>1847402
Ahh, I see. Thanks bro

[Anonymous No.1847494]

is there any "standard" way to trap a bearing from both sides?
I need to trap a small 6701 bearing. one side is easy, but how the fuck do i trap it from the second side? i tried various hooks (pic related), but they either brake during first assembly, or break easily when force is applied from other side.
i had an idea of "peening" the plastic around the bearing with warm soldering iron, but i would prefer it if i could easily disassemble them.

[Anonymous No.1847499]

>>1847494
Option A: shaft collars as per DIN 705, pic related.
Option B: use a lathe to cut a small groove in the shaft, then put an E-clip (DIN 679) in there.

[Anonymous No.1847500]

>>1847494
Snibbedy snapring

[Anonymous No.1847503]

>>1847494
Snapring, seeger ring or pressfit

[Anonymous No.1847507]

>>1847499
>>1847500
>>1847503
standard snap rings are way too large for such a small bearing.
pressfit is either too hard to assemble even with tools, or too weak to hold as strong as i need. im thinking of trying a slightly oval shape, maybe that will help.
im actually printing a super-teeny-tiny plastic snap ring atm, should be finished in about 20mins. ill let you guys know if it works.

[Anonymous No.1847509]

>>1847494
friction fit, hammer it in

[Anonymous No.1847517]

>>1847509
6701 bearings are so small that they will definitely be damaged by any hammering. the bearings are barely 3mm thick

[Anonymous No.1847520]

>>1847517
Aight well then i suggest a wise or tongue-and-groove pliers.

[Anonymous No.1847531]

>>1847499
>>1847500
>>1847503
>>1847509
>>1847517
my plastic "snap ring" finished and it actually fucking works. way better than i expected.
its just a ring that i trimmed a little so it fits into a groove.

[Anonymous No.1847532]

>>1847507
How small is this shit? I've seen some pretty small eclips

[Anonymous No.1847534]

>>1847532
the bearing itself isnt too small (18mm OD), its just that its very thin. this makes inner and outer races close to each other, thus circlips do not fit.

[Anonymous No.1847535]

>>1847532
>>1847534
forgot pic

[Anonymous No.1847545]

>>1847436
Thanks.

[Anonymous No.1847555]

>>1847507
>pressfit is either too hard to assemble even with tools
you can nigger rig a press out of a screw, washers and a fitting nut. This is actually the most easy way to do it on 3dp parts but its not precise

[Anonymous No.1847563]

>>1847436
Do you know which FlashForge machine it shipped with originally? I'm trying to find out if it supports microstepping and if so what number of microsteps.

[Anonymous No.1847640]

Just started printing with my new Ender 3 Pro.

Any recommendations on what I should print first?

[Anonymous No.1847649]

>>1847640

Tiddies

[Anonymous No.1847653]

>>1847563
You can replace the stepper drivers on the drivers board with something like a TMC2208 and use it in standalone mode, but the pins are facing the opposite way so you have to desolder the header pins on them and flip them around. If you want native (not interpolated) higher microstepping, I'm not sure. Probably the processor is too slow.

[Anonymous No.1847662]

>>1847640
The rest of the printer. Start with the hotend fix and the Z-motor shims:
thing:3236093
thing:4220059
thing:2925230

[Anonymous No.1847681]

>>1847653
Thanks. I don't quite follow but I'll look into it. The issue I'm trying to fix is z-axis stepper noise. The printer is a lesser known budget model called a Copymaster 3D. It has a Marlin 2.0.x config, which I managed to compile and upload, but the motor is still very loud.

[Anonymous No.1847685]

>>1847305
That one looks cool annon, could I get a clothed version?

[Anonymous No.1847691]

>>1847681
Oh ok weird. I only know of the ones with Sailfish and the ones with their shitty proprietary firmware. Just check the pins and make sure they're facing the right way and buy a single TMC2208 in standalone mode (not UART) assuming it has a separate driver board like pic related that has socketed stepper motor drivers.

[Anonymous No.1847695]

Anyone here have an experience with 3d scanners and importing them for printing?

Im looking to scan pretty small objects and have been looking at the current available scanners on the market though reviews seems to be a bit scattered on quality. Any recommendations?

[Anonymous No.1847701]

>>1847695
Put on some seasoning

[Anonymous No.1847725]

>>1847695
How small are the objects in question? Im guessing your budget is for consumer stuff, i wouldn't expect much from those with stuff smaller than your fist. Maybe try photogrammetry with macro lens first.

[Anonymous No.1847768]

>>1847691
Will do, thanks.

[Anonymous No.1847782]

>>1847725
the parts and pieces are pretty small, about 1cm at the smallest. though they have some detail and molding that would make it difficult to replicate without scanning.
I just looked into photogrammetry as you suggested, and i supposed ill try it out. Thanks for your reply.

[Anonymous No.1847801]

>>1847782
Figures or mechanical structures? If the latter you can model them in CAD. If the former then just kys.

[Anonymous No.1847809]

>>1847782
Im pretty sure the consumer stuff would be blob of triangles with that size.
The professional stuff i work with would be able to go down to microns with that size.

With a decent camera and macro lenses (both easy to obtain, sort of cheap) you could do that size easily.
Photogrammetry is slow and tedious but when done right the diy tools will get you pretty good results. Painting the part with some removable/cleanable nonreflective patterned paint could help the algorithm tons.
If your parts are simple a thin line laser (not chinkshit) could be a faster option than photogrammetry. Of course you would still need the good camera lens setup.

[Anonymous No.1847814]

I have a 200W diode laser.
Anyone have experience not losing an eye and succeeding in metal printing?

[Anonymous No.1847840]

>Recently obtain Chiron
>I'm trying to print with TPU
>I'm trying to print the raft for my fillament shelves
"WHRM why am I getting bad adhesion in the corners of my print bed?"
>Tackle issue
>All fucking day
>I'm medical this isn't what I trained for.gcode
>Since 8AM
>To like 10PM
>Eat dinner and have coffee
>Suddenly realize
>"OH, THE BED HAS LEVELING SPRINGS."
Am I retarded annons? How the fuck do I use the springs below the printing bed to level the fucking thing?

[Anonymous No.1847891]

>print tons of these
>leave them hidden in stores

teehee

[Anonymous No.1847893]

>>1847891
forgot my pic

[Anonymous No.1847936]

I want to make a 3D (1D?) printer that feeds this stuff out and folds it into a shape that I can put screws into to make it rigid. How do i do it?

[Anonymous No.1847938]

>>1847893
Bruh, where'd you get those STLs? I need them for... Science.

[Anonymous No.1847939]

>>1847893
Wtf, how'd you get the quality so nice? The bases are shitty, but the models themselves are great

[Anonymous No.1848007]

New Thread >>1848004