/diy/ - Do It Yourself

[Anonymous No.1838703]

What kind of electric saw is a good saw for a beginning woodworker? I live in Europe so no mutt brands please

[Anonymous No.1838704]

Yep a festool should do it

[Anonymous No.1838705]

>>1838703
Its all the same shit from about 4 different companies.

So I say this, you want a SLIDING mitre. Don't get that fixed shit. 10inch blade is a good size as a lot of table saws use the same size so you don't end up buying load of different blades.

Dust collection on all of them don't work for shit.

No plastic bases, aluminium or better.

[Anonymous No.1838707]

>>1838704
They're rather pricy tho and all I've seen is electric saws with a rather small saw blade. Isn't a bigger sawblade better?

[Anonymous No.1838711]

>>1838705
what brands would you suggest?

[Anonymous No.1838714]

>>1838703
Skillsaw
Jigsaw
Chopsaw
Tablesaw
Bandsaw
Scrollsaw
In that order. Also pick up a reciprocating saw if you any intention of doing carpentry.

[Anonymous No.1838724]

>>1838714
Roughly this but be more specific on your needs.

>>1838705
This is true

On brands: depends, I would never buy a cheap brand jigsaw, but then you can get a maquita or DeWalt for like 150 so why bother with chinks
For a mitre saw on the other hand I got a cheap Einhell which is holding up just fine, no reason to go expensive it does what I want.

So yeah i guess you need to elaborate the question a bit

[Anonymous No.1838733]

>>1838714
SKIL Saw, a SKIL brand circular saw. Worm drive only if you have Popeye forearms and plan to do house framing.

Jigsaw, Bosch is best.

Chop saw is a metal working tool. Miter saw is correct term. DeWalt, Makita, Bosch, all good.

Tablesaw. Eh, hard to get a decent one without spending good money. Id rather have a track saw that a cheap table saw.

Bandsaw, find a used one. The heavier the better for less vibration.

Scrollsaw, who really uses these still?

And yes, a Recip Saw (Sawzall) is good for remodel work.

[Anonymous No.1838740]

>>1838703
cheap discounter brand circular saw. There's no point investing in one of the cheaper brands (like green bosch, milwaulkee, black & decker etc), as those are no better than kingcraft and similiar chinesium brands. The only advantage is that you can get spare parts for a few years, but if you actually use the saw enough that a cheap one breaks that quickly, it would make more sense to save up for a good one.
Of course, if you're shitting money, you can also get a Fein right of the bat - they're definitely worth the money if you use them regularly, but also fucking expensive.

[Anonymous No.1838741]

I basically need a miter saw like in pic related. I was following classes but thanks to coronachan they got canceled so now I'm stuck at home with a semi finished bed that I'd really like to finish. I've used an old miter saw from a family member for other projects that I made but the saw isn't precise enough for making decent furniture. I'm planning on continuing to make furniture and other wood related projects and I figured a good miter saw would always come in handy. Pic unrelated

[Anonymous No.1838743]

>>1838733
>SKIL Saw, a SKIL brand circular saw.
Circular saw is retarded terminology. Tablesaws, chopsaws, mitersaws, compound mitersaws, and sliding compound mitersaws, jambsaws, etc.(since you want to be pedantic) all use circular blades. Like it or not "skill"saw is common vernacular for all brands of sidewinders and wormdrives.

[Anonymous No.1838754]

>>1838743
>its SKIL not SKILL

[Anonymous No.1838764]

>>1838741
Then as suggested either go cheap (Einhell, ferm, Skil, kinzo, whatever they're called in your country) and invest in good blades. Or go full on with a Makita, blue Bosch or DeWalt. Skip the in-between amateur brands like black&decker, bosh green.

[Anonymous No.1838773]

>>1838741
If you're going to do semi-professional work, then get something decent, probably Makita will be the best bang for your buck in Europe, but just look at reviews for specific models. Try to find reviewers that have actually used the saw for a good while. And remember that you need a likewise good, high-teeth-count sawblade for high quality cuts.

[Anonymous No.1838899]

>>1838703
Don't get a cheap one. You'll spend an age "tweaking" it to cut square, and a week later you'll have to do it all again, and again, and again. Not to mention the cheap ones are noisy as fuck compared to the better ones (induction motor if you can). Also, get one with a brake so oyu don't have to stand there waiting for a minute for the blade to stop.

[Anonymous No.1838978]

>>1838707
>Isn't a bigger sawblade better?

No. The bigger the blade the more deflection you get.

[Anonymous No.1839028]

>>1838703
that trigger design makes me want to kill someone.

From what I recall, the top part has to be pressed down in order to get the saw to pitch down for some reason and the problem is that by pressing the button you are half-way to engaging the motor. Stupid fucking design.

[Anonymous No.1839038]

>>1839028
Makes complete sense if you are flying above it,

[Anonymous No.1839091]

>>1838705
>10 inch blade is a good size as a lot of table saws use the same size so you don't end up buying load of different blades.
And this is why you check your fucking facts when someone on a board tells you shit like this.

DO NOT use whatever blade you have lying around in whatever saw is available just because they are the same size. Best case it works okay, worse case you could injure yourself.

Why? Blades have three basic properties you have to consider: kerf, tooth count, and hook angel.

Kerf: The simple explanation is the kerf is the thickness of the teeth on the blade. Thicker kerfs leave a larger 'hole' but also make weak-ass Chinese motors get the vapors. Thinner blades are nice but cost more. So, cheap blade plus cheap saw equals bogging when cutting and bad cuts. Cheap tools suck to work with.

Tooth count: Fewer teeth generally mean it is used for rip cuts (cutting with the grain). More teeth generally mean cross-cuts (cutting across the gain). If you cross-cut with a rip saw it can grab the wood. This is a moderate problem in a miter saw but a huge fucking deal in a table saw. It will throw that wood back at you. That can maim or kill you. Either way, you will likely have tear-out (ragged cuts) and that might ruin the piece or make more work. There is also a huge range of teeth counts. Anywhere from 24 teeth to 80 teeth. If you have a miter saw you want to use at least 60 teeth. With a table saw you need less for cross cuts so you might find a blade with only 50 teeth for 'cross-cutting' but don't put that in your miter saw. Definitely don't use a ripping blade in a miter saw.

Hook angle: This is all about the teeth. Miter saws want teeth with a hook angle of less than 7°. Table saw blades often have much more aggressive teeth because you are pushing the work through the blade. If you use an aggressive blade on a miter saw the saw can grab and pull itself through the wood. This is why people are so afraid of radial arm saws.

[Anonymous No.1839101]

>>1838703
Just buy any corded power saw, you don't need a chop saw, not like it can cut plywood anyways.

[Anonymous No.1839183]

>>1839091
>And this is why you check your fucking facts when someone on a board tells you shit like this.

This is true, but also ironic as I look at your post. Arbitrary generalizations that mean nothing in the real world.
My dewalt miter saw with a 12" blade came from the factory with a high rake angle 24t blade and its never been uncontrollable while cutting very fast with minor tearout (when it was sharp at least)
You really think you need a 60t finishing blade is going to be better for cutting most things? When you are getting into 60 and above teeth its usually to fine tune tearout for specific woods.
The blade is not as critical as you are saying, the majority of blades are sold as a general purpose blade that explicitly say they rip and crosscut, for miter and table saws. As with everything, its about feedrates and your feedrate will dictate how safe or not it is. Thats why putting your blade on ice skates is stupid and why nobody uses completely worthless radial arm saws.

Even if OP knew absolutely nothing, he could have blindly bought any blade and it would most likely work fine for most work. He has eyes, he can read packaging. Only fringe specialty blades or the extremes of tooth counts will cause OP a problem.

Anon is 100% right, buy the 10" so you can share blades

[Anonymous No.1839186]

>>1839183
this

[Anonymous No.1839214]

>>1839183
>>1839186
You strike me as the kind of guy that thinks a Diablo blade is some high-end stuff and locks the guard back on a Skilsaw because it gets in the way. You are wrong. Research it. I put my reasons in the post above so I'm not going to explain it again but feel free to google it. If you are cutting Douglas fir 2x4s on a job site with some folding piece of garbage, sure, do what you want. Pat yourself on the back.

If you try that shit loosey-goosey shit in my cabinet shop, where the saws are 3, 5, 7 horsepower, you will spend a month sweeping sawdust and emptying garbage cans before I let you touch a tool again. People lose fingers putting the wrong blade in a saw. I've seen it. People get a length of oak shot into their gut doing it. Table saws kill people. Miter saws eat fingers and hands of idiots. Don't be that guy that thinks that all you need is a keen eye and a steady hand to keep you safe. One day it will catch up with you. These tools are serious and shouldn't be taken lightly.

[Anonymous No.1839219]

>>1839214
lel
You are literally the one and only guy who shills radial arm saws on this board. Youve been doing it a while now, and youve showed us the rest of your tools in the garage.
I know you down own and cabinet shop, and I highly doubt you work at one.

Regardless of your larping, its an appeal to authority fallacy anyways.
A 10 horsepower saws using matched Forrest blades for production with exotic hardwoods is not at all relevant to OP. Not in the least bit.
There is a reason woodworkers are looked at as pretentious retards, its because of you.
A beginning woodworker buying a general purpose saw blade for his cheap miter saw is the end of the world, despite the fact his miter saw is literally going to come equipped from the factory with one.

[Anonymous No.1839234]

>>1839219
What are you even talking about? Who uses radial arm saws anymore? The whole reason I mentioned them was that they would climb the wood if they catch it. That is more likely to happen if you have the wrong type of blade fitted in a miter saw.

[Anonymous No.1839237]

>>1839234
>That is more likely to happen if you have the wrong type of blade fitted in a miter saw.

This is true, on the extremes of hook and tooth count which are not relevant to OP.
Again, you are being pretentious and unhelpful to OP.

[Anonymous No.1839285]

>>1838703
Anything older/not made in china > mil/makita/dewalt etc > everything else

Brands really don't mean that much, buy cheap used first and find out what you want in a tool. Depends on what you mean by beginner but if you want one cheap saw get a circular saw, you can use it for everything.

[Anonymous No.1839325]

>>1838703
In a pinch stuff from Lidl is pretty useable.

Buying quality is all fine and well, but for instance I wanted a tracksaw to cut some boards at an angle length wise to go around a corner for a garden path. So either I can spend a couple hundred Euro just for track without even a saw to go with it for a proper brand. Or I can spend 70-90 Euro at Lidl and get a tracksaw with 140cm track (depending on if it's on offer).

Maybe if I ever make it to a couple 100 boards to cut I'll start regretting not having something better. But for the couple dozen I had to do right now, it worked just fine.

[Anonymous No.1839326]

>>1839234
radial arm saws are straight fly as shit for dados

[Anonymous No.1839350]

>>1839325
>In a pinch stuff from Lidl is pretty useable
Anything with electric motors and batteries is surprisingly good from their brand parkside.
Anything hardened steel like drill bits is utter garbage.

>Maybe if I ever make it to a couple 100 boards to cut I'll start regretting not having something better. But for the couple dozen I had to do right now, it worked just
You won't regret it because spending 50 euros on Lidl or ferm got your initial job done and when it fails (which it won't if it's one of those tools you just don't use often) you will know what to look for in a more expensive quality tool. You would however probably regret having spent twice as much on something that's still crap like black&decker or Bosch green.

[Anonymous No.1839369]

>>1839234
so are we taking about radial arm saws, or miter saws?

Cause I'd never fuck with a radial without the proper blades or guards. There is definitely a lot more room for error when using one. Mitre saws on the other hand are pretty fool proof.

As for blades, Diablo is the best blade you can get for the money, from Home Depot. I'm not going to put expensive blades on my saws that I know people are going to cut aluminum and pine on. Dont be daft. Oh, and have you ever read the package of a blade? Some are designed for use on miter saws and, get this, table saws too! wow.

[Anonymous No.1839372]

>>1839219
a "real" cabinet shop, where you'll find all those big horse power units, is usually full of Mexicans banging out carcasses, and its often half automated. Its more an assembly line job than fine woodworking.

Not sure why this guy thinks he's better than everyone else.