SQTDDTOT

[Anonymous No.1830235]

Stupid questions that don't deserve their own thread: Thread

Is it possible to refill airduster cans with freon? In my shithole freon is like 3 times cheaper than air duster.
>inb4: get compressor and stop making planet hotter

[Anonymous No.1830239]

Any idea in what type of shops I could buy acrylic stand like this or similar? excluding ikea.

[Anonymous No.1830246]

>>1830239
Check your local office supply store

[Anonymous No.1830271]

How do you remove an existing bottom plate from stud partition wall in a concrete basement floor? Can you just unscrew the anchor bolts?

[Anonymous No.1830335]

>>1830271
remove the studs first

[Anonymous No.1830549]

>>1830235
Do most air dusters share this end where the triggers are interchangeable with each other?

[Anonymous No.1830570]

>>1830549
most aerosol cans do

[Anonymous No.1830760]

what's the best way to remove thread lock so i can reapply it and screw it in?
>>1830549
>>1830570 is right, try switching the heads with some aerosol cans

[Anonymous No.1830785]

What is the best way to hang things from a cinder block garage wall? The garage is at least 50 years old and I don't really know how to gauge what sort of block it is made of or how sound the blocks are.

What I want to do is hang some 2x4s or 1x4s from the wall so that I can put hooks and stuff for tools, snow shovels, rakes, etc. on the boards. I'd also probably like to hang some shelving, if possible.

I was thinking of getting a rotary hammer and using double expansion anchors, but I can't really find anything on whether that would be a good way to do it. I'd rather overdo it than underdo it, particularly as the stuff the previous owners hung appears to be starting to pull out of the wall.

I want to do this right, as I plan to have this house/garage for the foreseeable future.

[Anonymous No.1830952]

>>1830335
yeah no shit. i tried using a ratchet on the bolts but no luck so i cut the sole plate around the bolt now i have anchor bolts sticking out of the floor

[Anonymous No.1831106]

My 6 year old portable air conditioner isn't working, opened it up and nothing gets hot or cold so the refrigerant is probably all leaked out. What should I do with it? Harvest parts? If I take the capacitor, are rubber gardening gloves sufficient insulator? How long does it need to sit idly until it's decharged? The compressor still works, what projects can I do with that?

[Anonymous No.1831107]

Anyone know about metal selection when making a grill? 304 stainless is obvious but expensive. I heard A36 steel can be seasoned like a cast iron pan, is this my cheapest option? This is for the grill grate material

[Anonymous No.1831259]

>>1830785
3/8 inch concrete anchor studs, red head or similar. If you're making shelving, make sure you have legs to bear the weight and don't put it on the blocks since they might not be reinforced internally. Especially if you live in an earthquake area.

>>1831106
The compressors in those are noisy and weak. The inside of the lines will be oily and nasty from the refrigerant lubrication. Not much useful stuff in there and dead portable ACs are 10c/dozen. But there are probably a few relays and wiring that might serve in other projects.

>>1831107
All metals will rust when hot and subject to hot grease and acids from food like that, so don't expect that stainless is going to make it last forever. If I were you, I'd just use regular mild steel, it'll be the cheapest by more than half and will probably last at least 75% as long.

[Anonymous No.1831270]

>>1830239
U-line probably has them.

[Anonymous No.1831307]

How to I remove embossed lettering from titanium camping gear?

[Anonymous No.1831348]

I know you are supposed to apply many thin coats of tung oil and sand, but I am lazy, why can't I just soak the wood in tung oil for a long time and then let it dry for 30-60 days?

[Anonymous No.1831352]

>>1831307
remove lazer with sandblast
if it is embossed with a stamp then you can't remove it.

[Anonymous No.1831355]

What is 2 2'-dimorpholinodiethylether
What it is used for? Any DIY uses?
And more importantly how i clean/deactivate IBC containers that use to have it with out messing out/poisoning my near by garden or field, or water bed?
I was planning on using them to collect rain water for garden and make hottub thing, but dont know enough of the chemicals to even figure out what this shit is, let alone how to clean it properly, or is this doomed idea?

[Anonymous No.1831369]

>>1830239
Take them from a shitty kebab shop.

[Anonymous No.1831450]

I'm trying to run electrical for a ceiling fan in condo unit that has another unit above it. All I need to do is extend power from a wall outlet to the ceiling, but the wall has two joists running across the top of it so their's no path available from the wall to the ceiling.

What is the best way to get around this scenario? Is it safe to cut the hell out of the joists since they're supported by the wall? And what would be the most fineness tool I could use to achieve that?

I have access to both sides of the wall. It's not a unit dividing wall. There's no existing power in the ceiling of that room.

[Anonymous No.1831451]

>>1831450
*finness

[Anonymous No.1831463]

>>1831450
First mandatory get the fucking electrician to do that, cause we are talking about mains voltage and that very much sounds like jerry rigging.

How ever if you really want to do it your self ok. You can rob power from wall outlet or simply make fan as plug model, even with a switch to turn it on.
I cant figure out what kind of building we are talking about, but its fairly safe to say that you should avoid cutting any supports from the wall or the joists if possible. How ever you can drill a hole into joist to get cable trough with out causing more than minimal drop in load capacity, barely noticeable, since all structures should have safety margin of least 25% load capacity, in snowy areas more, but only a hole small enough to get cable trough and i would consult construction engineer about it, cause i'm unable to calculate loss with out plans and this is based on my local construction standards that are very strict, so engineer (if there was any) say in Cambodia probably would not calculate any reserve load capacity, where as in Finland that engineer would be on trial. Cutting "the hell out of the joists" is never advisable under any circumstances.

Also you might want to consider pulling new cable from the fuse box to ceiling, cause i dont know how powerful the fan is, how much load that circuit already has and what kind of cable standards you have. In Finland 1.5x3 solid copper core handles max 3000w if i recall right, but if you have say tv, computer, monitor and sound system in that outlet pulling say 2500w together and you rob power from there to say 800w sealing fan... well you just fried your outlet wires that most likely catch fire soon.. that is why there is rule here of never connecting extension cord to extension cord.. cause people are stupid and over load the first one. Its not perfect rule, you can still cause fire with one, but its less likely.

[Anonymous No.1831536]

>>1831106
Check wiring and if compressor gets voltage.
Maybe it is electrical issue and freon didn't leak.
>capacitor
Just don't touch the contacts. It won't kill you unless you have some heart problems

[Anonymous No.1831537]

>>1831463
>Finland 1.5x3 solid copper core handles max 3000w if i recall right
You're supposed to use 10A breaker with those, so 2200W max
Sockets are 16A 2,5 mmsq

Fans are not that power hungry, so I think you can steal electricity even from light circuit. I think they are 100-200W, so just like a bunch of old bulbs.

[Anonymous No.1831559]

>>1831463
The building is all completed construction with drywall, and it's the first floor so there is no attic access. Everything in the ceiling is blocked by joists.

Simply drilling a hole through the joist doesn't work for this run, because the problem joists are resting directly along the top frame of the wall, and I'm trying to get from the inside of the wall directly up into the ceiling, but the joists are in my way. I would probably have to notch the joists and cut the wall frame to get up and out. I'm just trying to determine if that's even safe or if there is some potential alternative that other people may have found when trying to run cable from wall to ceiling on a lower level with completed construction. I can't imagine that it's a terribly uncommon scenario.

I don't think that the fan would pull too much power. Running from the breaker box would be a nightmare. I'd probably have to drill through at least 10 joists and make a similar number of cuts in my cieling. Another option is to extent off of a light circuit from the hall which would still result in around 6 drills/cuts.

If I could just get from this wall outlet into the cieling somehow I'd be able to avoid running perpendicular to the joists altogether.

[Anonymous No.1831566]

>>1830952
House carpenter here.
I usually just split the plate around the bolts, pull the plate off, cut the bolts off, put new plate in, put new red heads in. It's easier and faster than messing with ratchets and old bolts.
P. S. You only need to cut the bolts about 1/3rd of the way through then hit them sideways with a hammer, don't saw them all the way through.
P. P. S. Although it was not said obviously floor/wall may need to be supported before removing bottom plate.

[Anonymous No.1831567]

>>1831307
Buy less pretentious camping gear

[Anonymous No.1831569]

>>1831559
You just have to cut access holes in your drywall to get your drill between joists. Gotta do what you gotta do. Even professional electricians cut access holes in bays here and there.

Also if I understood you correctly, I don't think it's code to just run a light off an outlet circuit. You need a dedicated lighting circuit.

[Anonymous No.1831611]

>>1831369
thats just mean

[Anonymous No.1831695]

Should I use these short anchor screws for mounting curtains or just use a regular long screw into the hardwall not sure what is best

[Anonymous No.1831710]

I recently replaced 5 GU10 halogen bulbs with LED bulbs in my bathroom. Now when I turn them off with the switch at the wall, the lights just go dim, instead of going off completely. Any ideas?

[Anonymous No.1831717]

>>1831355

From my limited googling it is a catalyst/hardener accelerant for 2 part foam systems.

Also says it is water soluable, so I'd just do a good triple rinse on them... Put it somewhere where plants aren't in case it will fuck them up on the surface, but I doubt it will screw up the water table.

[Anonymous No.1831778]

>>1831569
>Also if I understood you correctly, I don't think it's code to just run a light off an outlet circuit. You need a dedicated lighting circuit.
How about from a recessed light from the nearby hall? It'll be a lot more labor intensive but also probably a lot more straight-forward since I'm already in the ceiling.

[Anonymous No.1831841]

>>1831778
Yes, if you are going to tap off an existing circuit, tap off a lighting circuit not an outlet circuit. Use the same size wire as the other light and try to at least make sure the circuit you're choosing doesn't already have 6 different fixtures on it.

[Anonymous No.1831842]

>>1830235
okay this is an autism question but im building a self cut mirror system (3 mirrors on hinges), and i bought 3 acryllic mirrors.
they have a peelable matte surface on both sides, i peeled one side off and it's reflective, but a little warped around the edges.
do i peel the other side off, or will that just make it transparent and not a mirror?

[Anonymous No.1831848]

>>1831841
I think it's the only light on the circuit so should be no problem. It doesn't appear to have a ground though.

[Anonymous No.1831853]

>>1831841
>>1831848
Actually before I tear this up I want to try and confirm something. I only see one pair of wires going into the can for the recessed light, which I assume is coming from the light switch. Is there no way around running wire all the way back from the switch to avoid the fan being controlled from that same switch?

[Anonymous No.1831895]

>>1830235
Arent those sprays just compressed air? How can freon be cheaper?

[Anonymous No.1831896]

>>1830760
Like loctite? A thread tap cleans it out nicely. If you dont have that, try cutting long grooves in a regular appropriate screw/bolt. Should do the same job in a pinch.

[Anonymous No.1831902]

The carb adjustment screws on my chainsaw are spilned. I found a key online for it. But they look like they're too big to fit through the cut out. Are the carb screws standar? Cause there's no size notation

[Anonymous No.1831906]

>>1831853
>I only see one pair of wires going into the can for the recessed light, which I assume is coming from the light switch. Is there no way around running wire all the way back from the switch to avoid the fan being controlled from that same switch?
No. Not unless you do something janky like put a pull switch on each light fixture and eliminate the wall switch (or leave it on all the time).

The correct solution is to run a new wire back to the panel, or to a location you have constant power at a junction box on a lighting circuit.

There's also surface mount conduit, if you're adverse to punching holes in drywall.

[Anonymous No.1831910]

>>1831842
>do i peel the other side off, or will that just make it transparent and not a mirror?
It sounds to me like the backing is the reflective part, and my guess is that if you peel it from both sides it will no longer be a mirror. But that's only my guess. Ask the manufacturer, or peel off a small test piece from an inconspicuous corner. (Is it getting framed? Hinges? Anywhere inconspicuous.)

[Anonymous No.1831928]

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/d/san-jose-for-sale-small-truck-rack/7127224984.html

I'm retarded but is this truck rack worth $100? It's reposted at $100 so might be able to get it lower but I'm so ignorant I can't even tell if it's in ok condition or missing something. I can see there's a rusted bolt.
I have a little Toyota truck and want to use this as the frame for an extremely basic camper. Basically just a movable tent with plywood sides. If I'm going to get cute, wood on top that I can put a tent on. I know a guy who did something similar so I'm going to track him down and ask him but first you guys can tell me how dumb I am so he doesn't have to.

[Anonymous No.1831948]

Why are connections for home plumbing and ac soldered? Why not use something thats easier to service like o-rings, gaskets, or threaded connections?

[Anonymous No.1832037]

>>1831928
>i
will it fit your truck? do your local metal supply stores stock square tube? could they supply that much for 100 bucks? i know i couldnt buy that much for 100 bucks from any local guys

[Anonymous No.1832047]

>>1831948
Solder joints last pretty much forever and seal perfectly.
O-rings and other ruber gaskets break down over time and create a slow leak with some substances.
>>1831902
Depends on what screw and what carb.
If it is a metering screw, they are non standard screws as they have a special conical end that has a defined length and angle.
If it is a screw that is just holding the carb together, it's just s normal screw.

[Anonymous No.1832050]

I've got a pollen allergy and it's getting worse.
Could I just strap a HEPA-filter to a PC-case fan and filter the air in my room that way or are special air cleaners that much better?

[Anonymous No.1832055]

>>1830235
Propane is cheper than freon and is generaly used in aerosol cans.
On the other hand you can just attach a valve to the can and pump it up to ~10 bar with a bicycle pump for free.

[Anonymous No.1832069]

>>1831928
>is this truck rack worth $100?
If it fits your truck, and you don't have a pile of scrap steel and a welder laying around, and that's the picture of it, then yes it's worth $100

>want to use this as the frame for an extremely basic camper. Basically just a movable tent with plywood sides. If I'm going to get cute, wood on top that I can put a tent on. I know a guy who did something similar so I'm going to track him down and ask him but first you guys can tell me how dumb I am so he doesn't have to.
As a guy who lives in a house he built on his truck: do it. Fuck 'em if they tell you that you can't.
Also: consider getting a used cap that fits the bed of your truck, and then build your own sides to raise it up. Might be easier/lighter if all you want is a tent to sleep under.

[Anonymous No.1832070]

>>1830235
Buy a compressor. Alternatively, buy a refillable spray can.

[Anonymous No.1832073]

>>1831948
Soldered joints are intended to be permanent and therefore inherently not designed for service.

[Anonymous No.1832076]

>>1832050
>I've got a pollen allergy and it's getting worse.
>Could I just strap a HEPA-filter to a PC-case fan and filter the air in my room that way or are special air cleaners that much better?

Hi,

I don't have allergies, but my girlfriend does. She claims this god damn thing helps. I think it's a noisy wind machine, and a uselss piece of shit, and it's all in her head. But she insists on running it 24/7. So, if her testimonial is to be believed, you should buy one immediately.

Good day

[Anonymous No.1832092]

I'm wanting to build a wall mounted desk. similar to pic related, but larger in scale. I already picked up the brackets, same style but bigger.
My questions now is what's the best way I can mount the brackets to my wall?
The wall is solid, but I am unsure of what it is made from and it is roughly 15cm/6inch thick.

[Anonymous No.1832102]

what is the ideal size of the gap between the nozzle of a 3d printer and its bed? i am printing on PLA btw

[Anonymous No.1832104]

>>1832092
Those brackets need to be mounted into the studs/framing behind the finished wall, which would be a 16" layout here. Or, run cleats across the finished wall and put the brackets wherever you want.

[Anonymous No.1832106]

>>1832104
The wall is solid there are no studs. it's not dry wall.

[Anonymous No.1832109]

>>1832106
A poured concrete wall? Even then perhaps cleats attached to the wall with red heads would be the easiest way to mount the shelf brackets, as opposed to multiple concrete anchors per bracket.

[Anonymous No.1832112]

So I have a Victa ultralight (pic related). That's been sitting in the shed for maybe a month now. I had a look in it and there wasn't much fuel in it. I added some 2 stroke oil and fuel that I've been using in it for the plenty of other times I've used it. Anyways, I realised I accidentally out oil in the fuel tank, as I'm used to mixing oil with the fuel. I kinda just went oh well. And added some oil into the lil oil part. I stated it and it went for about 20seconds. It sounded a bit odd like it was struggling so I turned it off and there was dog hair wrapped around the blades. I took it off and started it again, it still made this sound, and the died. I gave it a bit if a shake but now it will only start for 2 - 5 seconds. The more I attempt to start it the shorter it lasts. I have no idea what to do or why this is happening. Did i fuck something up. Pls help I just want a nice lawn.

[Anonymous No.1832114]

>>1832109
I don't know if it's concrete or brick or something else.
I've been trying to look at anchors since they seam to have the higher weigh capacities.
I don't plan on sitting on the desk or having anything to heavy on it. But it would give me some peace of mind having that additional weight in case someone were to lean on it or something.

[Anonymous No.1832118]

>>1832114
>>1832092
Just found the ramset ankascrew online and I think that it'll work as long as I can find one that will fit the bracket
they appear to be able to take a lot more weight than the stuff I was seeing originally

[Anonymous No.1832129]

>>1832118

[Anonymous No.1832135]

>>1832118
Yes that type or other type of anchors will work. It's just that with putting the anchors in the brackets you're somewhat limiting yourself to the location of the rest of the anchors in the bracket, and it's not uncommon for these type of anchors to need to be set a couple different holes. Hence the advantage to cleats.

[Anonymous No.1832151]

I have some particleboard with a melamine surface on it that I want to use as a table top/bench thing for the kids to work on.
it's only 16mm thick. would it be okay just throwing some screws into it from the bottom or should I think about using some kind of wall plugs for a stronger hold?
or should I just scrap the idea of using the particleboard that I have now and buy something thicker?

[Anonymous No.1832173]

>>1832118
>>1832129
These screws will not work in a wall, they only work with wood.
You need screw ancors to use them in a wall, pic related.

[Anonymous No.1832183]

>>1832173
>These screws will not work in a wall
What? it says they work in concrete/brick and masonry.

[Anonymous No.1832196]

>>1832112
Water in the gas / fouled spark plug (from oil). You do not need to mix oil for that engine.

[Anonymous No.1832198]

>>1831307
Just take a grinder with a flapdisc to it and polish it. It's a metal.

[Anonymous No.1832199]

There is a concrete slab patio extending from the back of my house. I want to build a patio cover for it.
Is there any reason that the 6x6 posts can't simply be screwed into the concrete slab (using brackets)?
The guides ive read/watched are vague on this point; many of them seem to be creating little individual concrete footings for each post, that go down deeper than the slab goes.

Why do this? Something to do with frost?

[Anonymous No.1832223]

>>1832183
Trust me, they work nowhere near as well as proper anchors.

[Anonymous No.1832224]

>>1832223
care to provide some evidence to back up your claim?

[Anonymous No.1832226]

>>1832199
6x6 posts generaly are used only when you need to hold something heavy, they need a proper support to do so.
Just bolting them to a concrete slab would probably turn out to be insufficient.

[Anonymous No.1832230]

>>1832224
Bricks and concrete are hard and brittle, the screws can't engage that properly because they can't realy cut threads into such materials.
The nylon anchors work by expansion wich creates friction and they grip very well into the hard material.
Especialy in hollow bricks long anchors grip far better than any screw could.

[Anonymous No.1832232]

>>1832230
>the screws can't engage that properly because they can't realy cut threads into such materials.
they are designed specifically for this purpose

[Anonymous No.1832233]

>>1832232
>>1832230
>>1832118
>>1832129
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4kLBrmesLc

[Anonymous No.1832235]

>>1832232
They still can't grip anywhere near as well as an anchor because they can't cut and engage proper treads into hard and brittle material, that only works with soft and ductile materials such as wood, plastics and under certain circumstances metals.
In case of the anchor the screw cuts and engages threads in the nylon of the anchor wich expands and locks it into the concrete by friction.
That's why people tend to use them if they want to bolt something to a wall made of anything from drywall to concrete.

[Anonymous No.1832236]

What OEM is pic related?

Also is it NAND?

[Anonymous No.1832250]

>>1832233
Anchors work so well, you can hang yourself with a 5 mm screw:
https://youtu.be/GKzpAUwQuto

[Anonymous No.1832261]

>>1832250
did you actually watch the video beyond the opening?

[Anonymous No.1832270]

>>1832261
I watched both of them.
Unless you weight over 130 kg, you can hang yourself by using a 5 mm screw with an anchor in aerated concrete.
Obviously that doesn't work with drywall because the drywall itself is far too weak.
And if you go up in size a little, you can get ones rated for 520 kg each wich includes a healthy safety factor.
Meanwhile these direct screws where used in a rather light duty fort their diameter without any strength tests.

[Anonymous No.1832292]

>>1830239
A company called ULINE they have everything office, retail, whatever. Plus a great catalog to browse. They have a website.

[Anonymous No.1832479]

>>1831895
They usually have freon in them, but they cost a fuck ton, compared to freon you get in big bottles.
>>1832055
>Propane is cheper than freon and is generaly used in aerosol cans.
Fuel grade propane is dirty, has water inside and smells horribly. Refrigerant grade propane costs just as much as R134a or R22 in my shithole. But unlike propane, they are non-flammable.
I tried using camping gas, but pressure was too low. At least it is cleaner.
>On the other hand you can just attach a valve to the can and pump it up to ~10 bar with a bicycle pump for free.
I tried inflating it with compressed air (with fridge compressor), and it doesn't last at all. Not enough gas.
>>1832070
I really like format of small air duster can.
Refillable spray can should have, idk, 5 mm thick steel wall in order to be useful, so you can pump 30 bars there.

[Anonymous No.1832480]

>>1831853
>>1831906
So I already bought and started running 12awg wire thinking that would be enough, but apparently there is 10awg coming off this circuit. Since it's only a 15 amp circuit, is it safe to down-convert to 12awg? It looks like whoever installed this recessed light already did that. Or should I absolutely run back to the breaker box if I'm running a smaller gage regardless of amperage?

[Anonymous No.1832506]

>>1832037
Should fit my truck, this one as well and might be better. I'm just trying to make sure there's no obvious defect since I know nothing about the basics
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/d/rodeo-lumber-rack/7130769082.html
>>1832069
I'd like to see your build if you have pictures/want to share them. I've been living in a regular tall camper shell, but for a variety of reasons I want to switch to this version. Open top or I can put a tent on it. But yeah, ultimately getting this thing prepared for rainy winter would be harder than sticking with my current camper. Could always switch them out seasonally

[Anonymous No.1832523]

Anybody know of a cheaper alternative to MLX90614 Infrared temperature sensor modules or know where I can buy them for cheap? I need at least 2 remote temperature sensors for a project I'm working on, but at about $20 a pop they're a bit too expensive for my taste.

I haven't bought IR temperature sensors before, but I'd wager that the market has been sucked dry by the demand for IR thermometers due to Kung-Flu and thats why they're so expensive.

[Anonymous No.1832526]

>>1832199
>Is there any reason that the 6x6 posts can't simply be screwed into the concrete slab (using brackets)?
Yes.

>individual concrete footings for each post, that go down deeper than the slab goes
Yes.

>Why do this? Something to do with frost?
Yes.

Look at that, you made it there all by yourself. I had every confidence in you.
Think compression when you build. That slab is probably. 4" thick, maybe 3. If there's an air pocket or anything under the post it will crack under the weight. Posts need to be in real footings that are 4' deep into the ground to prevent being pushed up by frost (if you live somewhere with frost). If you don't live somewhere with frost (or earthquakes) then building practices get lazier from here but it should still be in a footing.

[Anonymous No.1832532]

>>1832223
>>1832224
>>1832250
>>1832261
I was the guy above suggesting to put cleats on the wall. I don't agree with this other guy.
There are all types of hollow wall anchors and masonry anchors, and most have their drawbacks. I don't personally like those nylon screw anchors for masonry or drywall. The screw things you selected should work fine as long as you drill the proper size hole. It really helps to have a decent hammer drill for this, especially if you are going to be installing a lot of anchors. The drilling takes the most time and with putting the anchors directly into the brackets you are limiting yourself the location of the other anchors. Cleats would require fewer anchors. It sounds like more work to use cleats but it is less work overall.

>>1832226
This guy has no idea what he's talking about but wanted to reply anyway.

>>1832480
>started running 12awg wire thinking that would be enough, but apparently there is 10awg coming off this circuit. Since it's only a 15 amp circuit, is it safe to down-convert to 12awg?
The risk with downgrading wire size like that is, if your work ever experiences a short or simply gets overloaded, and the circuit is fused for the 10ga wire that was previously ran, then your 12ga wire might well burn up and start a fire before the fuse/breaker trips.

You say it's a 15a circuit. If the breaker on that circuit is lower amperage than what any of the wires in that line can handle then you're probably not going to start a fire, but you're getting into dangerous territory when you start cobbling together different bits of wire that it sounds like maybe someone else has already cobbled onto and you're not sure what is what. At this point you have all the information you need and you simply need to decide whether you're going to hire an electrician, check the circuit out more thoroughly yourself, or in homeowner-esque fashion just resume cobbling it together and hope for the best.

[Anonymous No.1832533]

>>1832506
>I'd like to see your build if you have pictures/want to share
Search for the thread "mobile welding" in DIY, I did some shitposting of my vehicle at the end there. I don't usually show it off in detail.
Also check out cheaprvliving.com/forums
Lots of helpful people there who will teach you how to live this lifestyle.

[Anonymous No.1832551]

>>1832506
One other thing. If you do build that truck rack into a camper shell, please don't use OSB. I know it's cheap but it's complete garbage. It's fine for preventing racking of framing under siding on a house where it's (supposedly) never going to get wet. That's all it's fine for. It's not as strong as plywood, it soaks up water like a sponge, it rots before you notice it's wet, and it wouldn't stand up to constant vibration in a vehicle. Use 1/2" or 3/8" CDX and paint all the pieces of plywood all the way around including the edges with oil based primer before you install them.
Metal/fiberglass siding would be lighter and stronger if done correctly, but harder to work with, and I'm assuming you don't have that ability at your disposal. (I also decided against this type of body work when I built my truck house.)

[Anonymous No.1832553]

>>1832532
>The risk with downgrading wire size like that is, if your work ever experiences a short or simply gets overloaded, and the circuit is fused for the 10ga wire that was previously ran, then your 12ga wire might well burn up and start a fire before the fuse/breaker trips.
Does this apply if main power draw causing the overload is coming from a different source, that's already on a lower a gauge wire? Will heat transfer through the entire circuit rather than taking the shortest path back to the breaker? I ask because on this circuit are actually two lights and a gfci outlet. The outlet is the primary cause of concern as far as overloading is concerned I would assume, because it's in a bathroom where someone could plug something like a hairdryer in it. As for the fan I'm adding onto the higher gauge wire, I don't think it'll even be pushing anything more than 50 watts.

[Anonymous No.1832557]

>>1831355
https://polyurethane.americanchemistry.com/Resources-and-Document-Library/3852.pdf

[Anonymous No.1832559]

>>1832553
>As for the fan I'm adding onto the higher gauge wire, I don't think it'll even be pushing anything more than 50 watts.
You can't plan wiring that way. You can't just say "ah it's fine I'll never need that protection." Well, you can, but that's the cobbling we already spoke of. You don't know that fan motor won't get gummed up 5 years later and draw more power and burn up, or that some retard won't stick a screwdriver in there trying to work on the unit later and short it out, you just don't know. That is the reason for following the electric code. It's like buying health insurance. It's easy to say you're healthy and you don't need it, but you don't buy it for the times that you are aware of the problem.

[Anonymous No.1832702]

>>1832559
We'll turns out it was actually 14awg wire with fat as fuck sheathing, so false alarm. It was covered in paint so I couldn't tell until I started stripping some to make my splices. Got my run done and everything wired except for the fan itself and it all works so far. I think this will turn out okay. Just got to patch a lot of fucking holes.

[Anonymous No.1832776]

just got a chinkshit heat gun, is this legit or should i worry?
obviously i know moisture alone doesn't cause black smoke

[Anonymous No.1832794]

>>1832776

is very normal operation gwailo

please use product with confidence and most satisfactory

[Anonymous No.1832795]

>>1832776
>assure the consumer in every possible way that something is normal and to please not worry
>consumer: is this normal? I'm worried

You are the reason why it's impossible to give written instructions to the general public.

Anyway, it's surely oil from stamping/manufacturing. Should be fine.

[Anonymous No.1832853]

How can I get started being a handyman? I want to stop being useless, by learning how to do things like drywall, basic plumbing, setting tile, etc. And possibly start a career. But for now I want to start with simpler things. Is there a book or something I can buy?

[Anonymous No.1832864]

>>1832853
Start by getting hired as a laborer at a construction company. Be upfront about your lack of experience. Bring hand tools like hammer, pencil, tape measure, speed square, and a cordless impact driver. Do more than your job requires and learn from a variety of people in a variety of situations. They will likely promote you from laborer to some form of carpenter as soon as you can successfully attach two pieces of wood to a house. Skilled labor is in demand everywhere. Once you've done this for a couple years you will learn plenty of life long skills and you can use that to start doing jobs on the side, like patch a roof on the weekend or whatever. Pocket the money, it's an easy way to get unreported income. Once you feel ready to make the switch you can just become self employed any time. Still, when self employed, surround yourself by capable people. No one knows everything.

[Anonymous No.1832865]

>>1832533
>>1832551
Nice house. I've never posted on cheaprvliving but I've read some good threads and now I'm seeing a few on this truck rack camper idea. I'll save your comment on plywood>OSB and prep but yeah, I'm going for the simplest option with the wood. I'll read up more on the size/painting you recommend, thanks

[Anonymous No.1832867]

>>1832865
>Nice house. I've never posted on cheaprvliving but I've read some good threads and now I'm seeing a few on this truck rack camper idea.
Thanks, I like my house too. If you search CRVL hard enough you'll find my build thread somewhere in the truck section. I haven't checked it in a long time.

>but yeah, I'm going for the simplest option with the wood
Not sure what you mean, but if 'simplest' leads you to OSB, I again advise you not to use it.

[Anonymous No.1832884]

>>1832867
I'll look for your build there and keep an eye out for interior pics or anything here. One of the nicer house looking diy campers I've seen
>simplest option
I meant simplest option out of materials (wood/metal/fiberglass) I'll go with wood but then avoid OSB as per your advice.

[Anonymous No.1833042]

what should I do with my daughter's recently fallen-off umbilical cord? (the little piece they leave attached to the baby) want to do something cool with it but if not I'll probably just resin dip it to preserve, any better ideas?

[Anonymous No.1833141]

I have a rope (5/32" paracord) that is open at both ends. I want to tie the ends together after passing the rope through a series of rings. I would like to make the ends of the rope into a loop so I can them together with a carabiner.

What knot can I use to create the strongest loop with the open end of the rope?

[Anonymous No.1833142]

>>1833042
hang yourself with it you fuckin weirdo

[Anonymous No.1833143]

>>1833042

>any better ideas?

Throw it away like normal people?

[Anonymous No.1833210]

In built bottom red LED does not blink, cant make a single pin high. Cant upload code through emulation part to another chip.
Is my board broken?
(Connected wires in place of jumpers since I lost them lol)
(Also connected txd and rxd after taking pic)

[Anonymous No.1833229]

>>1833042

Clone the baby

[Anonymous No.1833230]

>>1833142

>2mm "cord"

>hangs self

[Anonymous No.1833272]

How do I disconnect this sink water connection?

Delta faucet. I searched, but keep finding installs, no disassembly ones for this specific model. I've dolt with the other push and pull.

New to this.

[Anonymous No.1833279]

>>1833272
Top side

[Anonymous No.1833289]

I bought a motorcycle and the guy painted the gas tank cover with spray paint and a primer, but I'd like to paint over it with a new color.

How should I go about this?
>Do I need to sand down the gas tank cover until bare metal is exposed?
>if I paint over the current paint, do I need a primer?
>are there specific kinds of paint and primer I need to use on it?

any other advice is appreciated

[Anonymous No.1833313]

>>1833272
the white tabs in your picture, push them into fitting, and pull the hose out at the same time. it looks sort of calcified, so it may take some force. rotating the hose will also help. they should just pop out.

[Anonymous No.1833314]

>>1832236
circle with M is Micron

[Anonymous No.1833343]

>>1833289
If the existing paint is in good condition with no flaking or rust or anything, then you do not need to sand to bare metal. You do need to sand a little, only to rough up the surface and give your paint something to tooth on to a bit. You can use a primer but you don't need to if you don't take it down to bare metal. Then spray with whatever paint of your choice. I like the rustoleum 2x brand. Use multiple thin coats, don't glob it on. Read the directions about recoat times. After it's dry, put a clear coat on top (same rustoleum 2x brand is good).

[Anonymous No.1833347]

Can anyone suggest what kind of lights i can use to illuminate round glass/ plastic orbs like pic related? Preferably something that i can wire to a small enough battery to hide in the cap instead of AAs or 9v.

[Anonymous No.1833375]

>>1833343
thanks anon, I appreciate it

[Anonymous No.1833416]

>>1833279
>>1833272
>>1833313
I couldn't figure it out and didn't want to break it. End up replacing the cartridges at $15 a pop since I couldn't wait for online shopping and water was leaking even with water shut off valves off.

At what point do you guys just replace parts vs repairing? I just paid $30 to replace both, both were cracked. Versus a new delta faucet for $45-$60. Do you keep spares for when parts do break to get cheaper online prices vs marked up home improvement store prices?

[Anonymous No.1833474]

What are these propeller things in the red circle called? When they are attached to the servos can they be used to pull the trigger of an air duster or will it damage the servo?

[Anonymous No.1833480]

>>1833416
It's very common for property managers, landlords, anyone else to just throw away faucets and replace them. With how cheap they are now... 20 bucks gets you a working one, 60 gets you a decent one... You can't get a plumber to even think about getting off his ass to repair a faucet for that kind of money. And you can try replacing the cartridges and aerator and stuff but, I used to work in a hardware store, and I'd say for everyone in there buying stems and seals and stuff, probably about 80% failed to remedy the problem, and about 100% of them made more than one trip.

[Anonymous No.1833500]

So I was wanting to make pic related, but instead of a rolled up cloth i'd rather stuff a can with bristles, making basically a fuck-hueg brush.

Any ideas on what material for the bristles, and how the fuck to stuff enough of them in that they don't all immediately fall out?

[Anonymous No.1833509]

>>1833474
They're called servo arms.

There are these cheap electric air fresheners that use spray can cartridges and just press down on it using a motor - you could look into repurposing them for air dusters.

[Anonymous No.1833553]

>>1831710
I've heard of this before. Can't tell you for sure what is happening but I think it's something called induced voltage. Your hot wire and your ground wire are too close to each other and when the circuit is closed a very small amount of voltage is leaking through via induction or something of the sort. I would start Googling there.

[Anonymous No.1833554]

>>1832050
Actual HEPA filters are not a meme. My wife has the worst allergies I've ever seen and convinced me to buy this $300 brick of a filter. That fucker was no joke. I could pan fry garlic in the adjacent room and if that thing was on she couldn't smell it.

[Anonymous No.1833628]

Tips for blocking people looking through windows without also completely cutting off light?

Living in an apartment currently and there's two big sliding glass doors that provide the natural light to the main room. There's only hanging blinds that go from the floor to the top of the door and they turn left/right. The building is shaped like a U, and my apartment is also situated where I'm on the first floor, in the center of the inside of the U.

Everyone who walks their dogs out there and everyone looking out their windows from other apartments can see directly into whichever way I shift my blinds. I'm trying to prevent that. I already tried some mirror tint film bullshit, but for these doors it was impossible to get it on without it looking like total shit. Any other suggestions to block peoples views without cutting off the main source of natural light? There's no real way to hang curtains that let light through.

>mspaint related

[Anonymous No.1833657]

>>1833628
diffusers? If you want to be able to see out, people can see in.

[Anonymous No.1833662]

>>1833628
>I already tried some mirror tint film bullshit, but for these doors it was impossible to get it on without it looking like total shit.
you're on the right track here. just watch some youtube videos and do a better job next attempt.

[Anonymous No.1833674]

>>1833657
I don't really care about seeing out, just letting light in. If the entire window is blocked but light still comes in that would be great.

[Anonymous No.1833684]

>>1833674
yeah just a big ass diffuser panel you roll out over it. you can even just get a shower curtain, dewrinkle it somehow and then cut to shape and gaff tape it on.

[Anonymous No.1833686]

Compressor exhaust / pump to tank pipe.

Is regular home copper pipe okay for that?

[Anonymous No.1833689]

>>1833684
Nice, any suggestions on where to buy something like that? Amazon is kind of a shit show with the chinese sellers when it comes to that stuff.

Worst case scenario I'll get the shower curtain then, I honestly can't believe I never thought of that, I'm a dumbass.

[Anonymous No.1833691]

Just use blinds , like any normal person are you a weirdo ?

[Anonymous No.1833699]

>>1833691
It's an apartment friendo, can't take down the blinds that are already here.

[Anonymous No.1833700]

>>1833699
Get privacy sheets for window then

[Anonymous No.1833707]

>>1833686
>Is regular home copper pipe okay for that?

Anecdotal evidence, I know, but it worked fine for me when I did the same repair on my small compressor.

[Anonymous No.1833727]

I want to make things out of cardboard like you see in some youtube videos, but what I want to make requires cardboard the length of 30 inches. Where can I get cardbaord that size without paying 40 to get a pack onlince, like is there anywhere I can get them cheap or even free?

[Anonymous No.1833733]

>>1833727
don't mind my mild mindboggle. this is my sword. i made this and took this pic.
in my exp clean cardboard is hard to find at large sizes, even with a buddy who works in a supermarket.

do you live near a music store? their boxes rule. there was a Long & McQuade nearby that dumped its fresh as fuck cardboard in the alley, and i would raid it on the regular.

the only other solution is to find a shipping supply store, which is what i started doing when my shit started to get serious and i needed big clean sheets. they're not expensive and there's no minimum order.

holla atcha boi when you build something, i wanna see what you end up making

[Kevin Van Dam !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1833761]

>>1833727
Any medium size box, you can cut it and unfold it, a 12”x12” box is going to give you 48” of cardboard. Problem is it will have the crease in it, so you can either double layer it or use something else to reinforce it.

[Anonymous No.1833793]

Hey lads, I'm looking to get a half-mask respirator for airbrushing, but the only brand that seems to be in stock on Amazon is NASUM. Is this shit any good, or should I wait for 3M to come back in stock?

[Anonymous No.1833819]

>>1830235
My dishwasher trickled water into my floor over time and the hardwood started to cup.

Would a humidifier mitigate the water underneath or do I need to open up the floor

[Anonymous No.1833821]

>>1833819
De*humidifier

[Anonymous No.1833831]

Anything fun you can do with one of those FM transmitters you use to play your phone in old cars? Total radio brainlet here. Like can I solder in an arduino and force the transmitter hardware into a public band and talk to my buddy in the next city?

[Anonymous No.1833832]

>>1833727
Dollar stores throw out so many boxes every day its totally insane. The one I used to work at was a crying-greta-tier ecological disaster.

[Anonymous No.1833934]

>>1833733
That's pretty cool anon, I'm not making the same sword, but the principles of applying cardboard should be the same. I'll probably make a thread here when I get down to it. There are some music places not too far away I guess I could raid for cardboard, but as for buying it, could you give me more info? From the websites of nearby packaging companies, all of the cardboard comes in bundles, not individual pieces, which is really what I'm looking for
>>1833761
I'll keep that in mind since the cardboard I've found from Home Depot also has creases, but like you said, the project would have multiple layers.
>>1833832
Sounds worth checking out, is it something I can buy/ask for, or do I have to recover it when they dump it?

[Anonymous No.1833946]

>>1833934
no sweat guy, it was just a bit of a mindfuck - first time even looking at this board in years, on front page see something i made.

the way i found the place i go to was just googling "shipping supplies __(name of city)". maybe i got lucky with mine, but if you are only finding places like Uline and big established suppliers then you won't find individual sheets. try to look for a small operation shop.

[Anonymous No.1833991]

>>1833684
>>1833689
It's called a "sheer privacy curtain" go buy one for $5

[Anonymous No.1833999]

>>1833347
How much and what kind of light do you need
Easiest/cheapest is an led and a button cell

[Anonymous No.1834014]

>>1833999
What youre holding looks about what i need, probably 4 of those wired together. Thanks

[Anonymous No.1834026]

I have lots of wrought railings to paint this summer.
I plan to scrape the rust and old paint with wire wheels and sandpaper and paint it over with some decent quality paint like hammerite.
Any tips to make the paint last longer/better finish/quicker job?

[Anonymous No.1834059]

>>1834026
if you have a sprayer you can tarp up one side at a time and hopefully will go faster. if the wind is not complying you're fucked and will have to apply with a brush

[Anonymous No.1834064]

So my dad decided he would fix the rust on the dishwasher racks by spray painting it instead of using proper dishwasher rack coating. Of course, the paint keeps rubbing off and instead of sanding the paint off and coating it properly, he ran the dishwasher to try to clean the paint off.

I guess I don't have a question, I just needed to vent. Any advise would be nice.

[Anonymous No.1834067]

>>1830235
Got a brick fireplace but it looks like the brick is purely aesthetic and it is in fact a metal fireplace just with brick fascia over the metal. Some big cracks in the bricks. How to be sure fireplace is safe without removing bricks?

[Anonymous No.1834068]

I want to learn handyman skills to the point where I could do pretty much everything myself: construction, welding, electrical, plumbing, automobiles, etc. Right now I’m a senior in high school and for a long time I’ve been thinking about how pretty soon I’ll be of here. I’ve always wanted to have these skills to where I could do something like building my own house and maintaining it, but I could never find someone to help me learn, I just figured I’d learn eventually. Well the time is now, and I was wondering anyone had suggested reading, videos, small projects, or anything else you think could be helpful for now over the summer so I can begin to work towards my goal? Or just general advice for someone not yet out in the world who wants to live a DIY life. Thanks, I’d really appreciate it

[Anonymous No.1834071]

>>1831355
>Buying used ibc
That's about the one thing I wouldn't cheap out on

[Anonymous No.1834073]

>>1834068
Find a specific thing you want to do, look up on youtube how to do it, do it. Repeat. That's about all there is to it. You can also follow channels that regularly do the kind of stuff you want to do, but it will teach you very little without actually doing it yourself.
Also, don't buy a pile of tools without knowing what you need. It's usually better to buy something cheap and later replace it with a better one when you know that you use it a lot and know what you actually want. Some exceptions are ultra-shit power tools like Ikea, B&D, and chinkshit/ultra-cheap HF shit in general if you don't know what you're doing.

[Anonymous No.1834074]

>>1834073
Thank you

[Anonymous No.1834098]

>>1834026
>>1834059
I would be inclined to take the railings right off the building, one at a time, and spray them elsewhere. People underestimate how much time masking off takes for a good spray job. Plus you'd have to work off a ladder to spray the other side. Just uninstall them and spray them in a location you don't care about overspray.

>>1834064
Your dad is a moron, sorry.

>>1834068
Get hired at a constructing company as a laborer. Are you going to college? Consider a tech/vocational school. Lots of good welding programs out there with job placement. I did go to college and it was a waste of time and money, I've just worked construction since.

[Anonymous No.1834108]

>>1834098
I want to go into the forestry service so I was planning on getting a degree in NR and doing a lot of internships. Would it be worth doing vocational school as well just to get the skills?

[Anonymous No.1834117]

>>1834108
>Would it be worth doing vocational school as well just to get the skills?
Depends if you have a source of learning the skills elsewhere. I never had any schooling in my trade, just learned it on the job. I would suggest a part-time job with a construction company or other trade, personally. Might as well get paid to learn.

[Anonymous No.1834119]

>>1834117
Thank you so much for the advice, if I have the time I’ll try it out - I could definitely use the money.

[Anonymous No.1834151]

I'm cleaning up and fixing a messed up burner on this old ass Westinghouse cooktop/range. The wires near the heating elements look really fucked up, so I want to replace the wiring while I have everything apart.

Do I need to buy some special wire, or just match the gauge? I can't tell if the insulation on this wire looks weird to me because it's asbestos insulation, or if it's some special-purpose wire that I need to look for.

[Anonymous No.1834154]

I have ants in my house.I see them everywhere but I don't know from where they come from so I've bought some borax and mixed 1:1 with sugar and they don't eat it. I tried with cocaine, honey and other different sugary drinks but they fucking avoid it. Any advice?

[Anonymous No.1834156]

>>1834154
>cocaine

[Anonymous No.1834157]

>>1834151
Wires near heating elements should usually be heat resistant, I'd definitely put high temp wiring in a cooktop. Also note that you probably can't solder, connections should be crimped.

[Anonymous No.1834160]

>>1834157
>you probably can't solder
Interesting. Is this because the heat will loosen the solder?

And thanks for the confirmation. I'm gonna start at my Ace Hardware that's staffed by old farts and see if they have what I need.

[Anonymous No.1834166]

>>1834160
Well, look at the old connections, if you see that they are soldered then you can solder. If you only see crimped wires, you can't solder. Though even if you see solder, some types of solder have a much higher melting point than others. For high temperature stuff it's usually always crimps to avoid danger of melting the connections off.
Silicone wire is somewhat heat resistant, but don't buy it if they offer that, you want something with a glass fiber woven exterior shell, rated 200-250C.

[Anonymous No.1834171]

>>1834059
Nope, no sprayer. So yeah, I'll just wire wheel them, mask everything and paint with brush for the details and roller for the flat parts. I've done it before and it's no fun, looking at probably a week of work, but someone's gotta do it.
>>1834098
Unfortunately that's only a stock pic my railings are embedded into the concrete and brick wall. I would take them out and send them to be powder coated, but that's not possible.

[Anonymous No.1834199]

Want a rotary tool for occasional tinkering:
Dremel fine?
Spend more on Proxxon?
Not worth it and just get some chink knock off?

[Anonymous No.1834211]

>>1834199
how occasional is occasional? if its once every month of so, chink knock off is fine. i can kinda recommend skil dremel knock off. ive used for several years now. it has a tendency to lock up, but otherwise works fine. i got it for like $15 new.

what could i use to slowly deteriorate steel? i need to break a key lock on a door, but i need to do it slowly, over the course of weeks or so. i thought using something like fine sand and just blow small quantities of it from time to time. are there any sprayable abrasives i could use, something like wd40 but faster?

[Anonymous No.1834212]

>>1834199
What do you want to do?
I often use mine for metal and the Dremel types always struggled a bit so I got myself a far more powerful die grinder.

[Anonymous No.1834215]

>>1834199
I don't think it's possible to fuck up one of those, but maybe buy some low-end brand. Dremel is not really worth the price.
>>1834211
Salt water will rust steel pretty fast. You can also run electricity through it (the water) to make it rust even faster. WD40 is not an abrasive and does not cause steel to deteriorate.

[Anonymous No.1834220]

>>1834215
im afraid the components in the lock (cylinders and springs) might be made from stainless steel. thats why i thought about using something abrasive first.
doesnt wd40 leave a crusty film thats quite abrasive after a while?

[Anonymous No.1834221]

>>1834064
>>1834098
In the end he's insisting on just buying a new dishwasher. I swear to god I never want to hear boomers talking shit ever again.

[Anonymous No.1834226]

>>1834220
Abrasives are for abrading a surface, what you want are corrosives. What is this retarded thing you're trying to do anyway? Why does the entire thing need to rust away?

[Anonymous No.1834228]

>>1834166
Thanks again. The wire for this stove appears to be 16ga, which seems really low considering that's only rated for a bit under 4 amps. I assume this wire is original although I know the previous owner monkeyed around with it to some degree.

Is there any downside to using thicker wire? Besides expense and maneuverability.

[Anonymous No.1834231]

>>1834228
No, besides those two, feel free to use thicker wire. There are some specifics in special use cases, but for your case thicker wire is fine.

[Anonymous No.1834234]

>>1834226
fair enough, abrasives wont have enough action to be effective.
i want to brake a lock on a door (pic related). the problem is, i need to do it slowly and over time, so glue or quick corrosives are out of the picture. i dont need the whole thing to rust, just the lock to stop working.
as far as i can tell, only special marine locks actually use stainless steel. the lock i need to brake is cheap, so i dont think it would use ss. whats the best corrosive besides salt water? if i do use salt water, should i make a brine, or just a small amount of salt? i wont be able to run electricity through it though.

[Anonymous No.1834262]

So I got an apartment and my main contractor is going to be putting the electrical outlets, lamps and flooring (tiles and laminates) and the interior doors. I want to save some money on the paint job and do it myself and I'm wondering if I can do it when he finishes with all that. Is that ok as a plan or should I insert the paining after his flooring and before the rest (which is kinda hard to do with his and mine schedule)?

[Anonymous No.1834320]

Are pic related a good idea? I'm working with 110 AC hooking up lights and would absolutely kill for a better alternative to wire nutting. They aren't UL certified though.

[Anonymous No.1834321]

>>1834211
>>1834212
>>1834215
130w Dremel 3000 with 15 piece set of accessories is $45 here.
125w Skil with 25 piece accessories is around $40(the only one I can find here). Wouldn't really want to go for that since I only found it in one store I don't really know.
100w Proxxon with 45(but mostly basic) accessories is $65 but I hear good things about the brand.

Kinda leaning towards the Dremel.

[Anonymous No.1834338]

>>1834320
Use original Wago or alternative from reputable brand like Legrand or whatever.
This is a fire hazard.

[Anonymous No.1834350]

>>1834338
Thanks anon. I swapped out the chink ones for Wago, but I'm a little peeved about it. Not only does Wago not sell UL certified butt style lever nut connectors, nobody seems to have them.

[Anonymous No.1834377]

>>1834320
>>1834338
this if your dead set on not using wire nuts, but in my opinion a good joint is far safer and more mechanically sound then a wago. just pre twist your wires and screw them on tight

[Anonymous No.1834408]

>>1834350
Order them locally, not from Ali.
>>1834377
Wire nuts are bad connector. I've no idea why do they still use it in US or Latin America.
Twist and solder/weld/braze, crimp, wago... But please stop using wire-nuts and cheap'o block terminals that pierce wire with screw.

[Anonymous No.1834420]

>>1834408
Wire nuts are crap if used incorrectly, but if the wires are twisted together first and the nut is on there tight and not showing any exposed copper, you're good. When you get it all done correctly you should be able to tug on the wires in all directions, tug on the wire nut, and not have anything slip apart.
It's "twist and nut" just as you said "twist and solder."

[Anonymous No.1834442]

>>1834420
>Wire nuts are crap if used incorrectly,
It is hard to use them correctly somewhere in crawlspace or under ceiling, because you don't see a fuck, neck and arms hurt, etc.
> but if the wires are twisted together first and the nut is on there tight and not showing any exposed copper, you're good.
Idk about you, for me it is really much easier to take a torch and solder the joint and have way more reliable joint without guessing if it is spring that conducts electricity or wires themselves.
Sure, you wouldn't do this as professional electrician, because fire permits and crimp (a thick one, not thin junk) is even easier. Or Wago if it is low-current circuit. 773 or 222 or 221 - doesn't matter, all of them are way easier and more retard-proof that wire-nut. Think about speed and RSI.

I really have no idea why do Americans still use wire-nuts... Speed is money ffs

[Anonymous No.1834463]

>>1834442
Wire nuts are more serviceable later to retards who want to add things. (This is a very common and time-honored right exercised in our country.)

[Anonymous No.1834469]

>>1830239
go to any company that works with plastics. They'll either be able to fold you some to your exact spec, or know who will.

[Anonymous No.1834477]

>>1830235
Hey whats up lads im doing a little circuit and i want to be able to charge a a lithium cell via usb. what type of IC do i use. I see on digikey there is battery charger ICs and battery management ICs. Do i use 2 different ICs? is there special type of IC that does both. thanks in advance.

[Anonymous No.1834480]

04 Yamaha 1200 XLT. Rough idle sometimes no idle. Burns lots of oil. Won't real full throttle and runs best at half choke. Rebuilt carbs everything ran perfect. Then exact same symptoms occurred again. Any ideas?

[Anonymous No.1834509]

>>1834477
There are ICs that both do current/voltage limiting and also charging from USB. Should be called something like "USB charge protection board".

[Anonymous No.1834534]

Public institution custodian here. Tomorrow I'm expected to clean big globs cyanoacrylate glue off some counter tops in a chemistry lab.

What's a no-nonsense fast and easy way to removed superglue? I have no idea what these counter tops are made of, its some sort of black resin/plastic type material.

[Anonymous No.1834540]

>>1834480
Install an inline fuel filter and then clean your carbs again, you probably have sediment in the tank that's plugging the jets.

[Anonymous No.1834549]

>>1834408
>Order them locally, not from Ali.
I got them from Wago's storefront on Amazon.

Anyway for you guys wondering it's the space saved over using wire nuts that sold me. Complying with NEC 300.14 in an outlet box that goes to lights and fans and breaks off to outlets all in the same box is hell when using wire nuts. Once everything is wired I gotta cram the switches in there so fucking hard and torque the screws into the plastic to get them to stay - all while using 12/2 with 3 and even 4 wires twisted and nutted together. I can't help but think "there's no way those wires aren't desperately trying to rip themselves out of those wire nuts right now."
So yeah, got some Wagos on the way. Not knockoffs or something that passes China's "It's safe, you can trust us." CQC certification, but real UL certified Wagos that in comparison are expensive as hell.

[Anonymous No.1834561]

Small leak in a copper pipe, about half a gallon per day.
How fix?...

Don't really want to drain the system for three drops of solder.
Does that silicone tape stuff actually work?
Thanks in advance for any advice.

[Anonymous No.1834562]

>>1830235
I couldn't think of a place to ask this, and this is the closest place that's appropriate.
Does anyone know where to find a desktop lamp stand that has a dimmer switch built in? I can only find complete sealed units with dimmer options or screw-in-bulb options with no dimmer switch. I know you can just buy a passthrough with a dimmer, but it those both look bad and seem like an extra point of failure in a cramped space.

[Anonymous No.1834564]

>>1834442
American here, I don't understand either.
Half the time you have to snip off the old stuff anyways when you wire again.

[Anonymous No.1834566]

>>1834562
Some of the higher quality halogen lamps have a built-in dimmer, but has to be a store better than walmart...

[Anonymous No.1834567]

>>1834566
I'm trying to get something with a replaceable bulb; that pic is just to show I'm looking for one that clamps to a desk. It's for a drafting able.

[Anonymous No.1834571]

>>1834567
Tbh aren't all bulbs technically replaceable?
We're on /diy/ ffs.
It either takes 120 volts or whatever the adapter attached to it says.

[Anonymous No.1834578]

>>1834571
Some of the lamps have the LED's soldered in; I more meant ones that accept standard bulbs that are screwed in: There's a particular bulb I'd like to use already, but I'd also like to utilize its dimmer capabilities.

[Anonymous No.1834579]

>>1834578
Fair enough answer, LEDs can be tricky bastards, good morning or good night.

[Anonymous No.1834596]

>>1834579
Yeah, it looks like I'll have to get very /diy/ and make my own lamp if I want one that:
>Has a clamp to fit on an adjustable desk
>Accepts replaceable bulbs
>Has a dimmer switch

I've looked online for hours and gone to stores; there is no lamp that has all three, only any 2.

[Anonymous No.1834598]

>>1834596
You can buy clamps separately.

[Anonymous No.1834599]

>>1834598
I know, but the lamps I've run into so far that have a dimmer switch and removable bulb aren't made to detach from their base or have a nonstandard stem to connect into a clamp.
I could just tear the whole thing apart and make something to screw the lamp's actual active parts onto a swing arm, maybe.

Or give up on using this particular bulb and just buy an existing dimmer desk lamp with the soldered in LEDs and hope it actually does last 5 years and save the dimmer lights for room lighting.

[Anonymous No.1834600]

>>1834599
What about dimmable LED bulb and replacing the switch with a generic inline dimmer?

[Anonymous No.1834601]

>>1834600
That should do the trick without having to take as much stuff apart, yeah.

[Anonymous No.1834616]

I fucked up while relocating an Acer japonicum or something similar. The thing has a crown about 3 feet in diameter. After digging it out and pulling it out of the ground all the soil fell from the roots. It has pretty much no fine rootwork left, only 5 or so finger thick ones that got cut before branching out to dinner stuff. Must have been due to the sandy, dry soil it was planted in.
Is there any way to save something like this? As in make it grow new roots before it shrivels up and dies? Right now I have it in a pot of water.

[Anonymous No.1834678]

>>1834463
Wago-222 and 221s are even more serviceable.
>>1834564
Exactly, because you can't straighten the wire, and copper work-hardens and it can break-off.
>>1834549
They aren't that expensive.
Push-to-connect ones (773 or 2273) are cheap, $0,50 per 5 hole variant. Non-reusable though, but you can remove wire if you want.
Levered (222 or 221) ones are more expensive, $1,50 per 5 hole variant.

I say this as thirdworlder, but I'm not licensed electrician.

[Anonymous No.1834683]

>>1834616

[Anonymous No.1834727]

>buy ksger T12 soldering station
>while I'm at it I also buy the ksger SMD rework station
>online people suggest to ground the case of the T12
>I figure I have to do the same for the SMD one, so I add a wire (green and yellow one) to the chassis through a ring terminal contacting one of the screws, pic related
>everything passes continuity check (the only way certain screws can pass continuity is through the case)
>start using the hot air gun to add a grounding to the T12 Station
>seems to work fine
>crank up the temperature
>residual current device trips
Did I dun goof'd? I can't even do anything about it because the T12 is now disassembled and I don't have any other iron

[Anonymous No.1834728]

>>1834727
Is the underside of the PCB touching the case?

[Anonymous No.1834730]

>>1830235

Babies first concrete. Base that goes under the back steps and landing area.

How badly can I fuck this up?

[Anonymous No.1834731]

Can a handheld circular wet/dry saw double as a regular circular saw for wood etc. as long as a use the right blade or will there be drawbacks?

[Anonymous No.1834732]

>>1831307
Or just leave it on...? No one gives a shit unless you stole it from someone you are going camping with.

[Anonymous No.1834733]

>>1834728
It doesn't. Pic related. However I just got shocked while opening it up to take a picture.

[Anonymous No.1834735]

>>1834733
Forgot picture.

[Anonymous No.1834741]

>>1834730
>How badly can I fuck this up?

Getting the mix wrong is probably the worst you can do; it'll either turn to powder after it's set or it'll crack and break apart within 6 months.

[Anonymous No.1834752]

I'm ready to take the 18v pill. I want several tools like this, so I'd like to pick the best ((proprietary)) battery shape system from the start. Which brand should I go with? Mainly interested in battery longevity, everything will be fairly light duty

[Anonymous No.1834754]

>>1834683
Didn't know that was a thing, thanks. Should I cut the crown back due to the root damage? And should I keep it in water for a couple more days or just rub that rooting powder on it and put it into some good, wet soil?

[Anonymous No.1834760]

>>1834727
>>1834735
Update: I added a sheet of vynil under the pcb to isolate it from the chassis even more (although the anodizatio is already insulating on its own). After a power up I saw the heat gun glow red hot. Shortly after the safety switch tripped. Could it be that there's a short between the heating element and the grounded shielding of the heat gun?

[Anonymous No.1834765]

>>1834760
Disconnect the heat gun and try again.

[Anonymous No.1834768]

>>1834026
if you can take them off find someone who will dip or powder coat them for you
you will save yourself many hours
companies doing wrought iron fences can do that for you quite cheap

[Anonymous No.1834769]

>>1833289
re image
why would you fire someone excited that much about his shitty job

[Anonymous No.1834777]

>>1834765
I have disconnected it and nothing happened, so I opened the gun up and I accidentally broken some connections (wires are thinner than my hairs) because now it doesn't sense the magnet in the holder anymore and the gun shield isn't grounded either, however it has worked fine, no safety trips.

[Anonymous No.1834791]

>>1834777
Opened up again and took 220 through the arms. Apparently there's line voltage up to the resistance, which further increases my suspect of a short there.

[Anonymous No.1834793]

>>1834791
The isolated 24v power supply is only for the iron and controller.

The heat gun runs directly with main voltage, only controlled through an SCR dimmer. Don't fuck with it while it's connected.

[Anonymous No.1834804]

>>1834793
I thought that the switch on the back controlled all the voltage through the system. Now I know it doesn't. Also, now the fan is dead. I feel like I got chinked.

[Anonymous No.1834813]

>>1834730
You need to support those forms more. I would have told you not to use OSB, it's flimsy and the cured concrete will stick to it. But now that you have it might as well use it.

I would attach a 2x4 to the outside of that long side of the form. Then next to that 2x4, as well as the entire perimeter of the rest of the form, you need to pound stakes into the ground. Like 8" into the ground is probably enough but deeper is good. Any stakes that don't end OP touching the forms, that's okay, just cut triangle shaped pieces of wood and wedge them in between so that the form walls are supported by the stakes/wedges.

Buy the regular premix with stone in it. Mix it until it's like lumpy mashed potato texture. There should be no dry spots in the mix, but it should not be runny or soupy either. It's easy to add too much water.

I would have said use rebar but that mesh is probably fine. Wouldn't hurt to throw a couple pieces of rebar on top.

Once you dump the mix in there, use a scrap 2x4 to pack it all down all the way around the form, make sure there are no voids, vibrate it, smack the walls of the forms, anything to get it to settle as much as possible.

Once it starts to set up you will need to trowel it. Buy at least one steel finishing trowel and watch some YouTube videos.

>>1834741
Ignore this poster, he knows nothing.

[Anonymous No.1834814]

>>1834752
Literally pick whichever you like most, all the major cordless tool brands are pretty good now. I use Dewalt but if I bought em all over again today I'd buy rigid at half the price.

[Anonymous No.1834835]

does anyone have any experience with urushi laquering abs plastic? Planning on do a project and can't really do wood since it's 3D printed

[Anonymous No.1834848]

>>1834835
Or at least laquering plastic in general?

[Kevin Van Dam !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1834912]

>>1834752
What are you trying to do?

Milwaukee seems to have the coolest lineup, plus 5yr warranty on the tool compared to 3 for the other brands. There are a lot of specialized trade tools Milwaukee does best, I like them because of the mechanic’s tools like the best impact wrenches and all the sweet 12V stuff.

If you are thinking about basic carpenter-homeowner tools, any of the brands will have you covered, can’t go wrong with Makita or DeWalt, upside to DeWalt being they sell the tools at like every retailer and you can find sales all the time. Makita is solid, but the deals aren’t as easy to find in the US so I don’t understand the appeal of it over the other brands unless you really like teal, also they keep pushing all these new battery platforms and changed their 12V design and the “Star” and “Yellow Tab” packs so an 18V LXT pack might not run certain 18V LXT tools. Milwaukee is the best at being able to run everything up to a chainsaw from a regular 18V pack, but DeWalt is ok with some compatibility between the Flexvolt stuff and the chargers that work for 18V and 12V packs. Bosch is solid, but no reason to choose them over the competitors and they don’t have a huge lineup, plus limited store availability.

Ridgid and Kobalt give you a lot of tool for your money and good warranty but their lineups aren’t as extensive as Milwaukee or DeWalt, but they cover all the basics.

Ryobi is the best homeowner brand, the tools aren’t as tough as the pro tools, but more than enough for weekend jobs, affordable, and huge lineup of shit you don’t really need but want now that it is powered by an 18V pack.

Porter Cable was like Ryobi but a worse tool lineup, and I think Lowe’s is cutting back on PC in favor of new Craftsman, and the new Craftsman line is like Ryobi without the lineup so no real reason to go there unless you’re a boomer or have a Lowe’s gift card.

Black & Decker makes tools for your lesbian aunt.

[Kevin Van Dam !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1834918]

>>1834752
As for battery longevity, I think Makita has super fancy battery protection, but their packs are expensive and supposedly if you let them overdischarge, they go into some perma-protected mode and become an expensive brick.

Milwaukee has real good battery packs too. DeWalt, I’m not as sure, I know they had a few bad ones like one of the Flexvolt packs was known to fail, but all the major companies give you a warranty on their battery packs. I see sales quite a bit on DeWalt packs, sometimes Milwaukee too so if you’re patient, you can get a 2pk of 2.0/3.0 packs for $80/$100.

Kobalt at Lowe’s was advertised as having real affordable batteries, I think at one time it was $20 for a 2.0 pack and $40 for a 4.0, but last time I looked, they jumped in price.

Ryobi has sales a few times a year, lately they have had a deal for $99 with 2x 3.0 packs, a charger, and a free tool, so be patient and buy the tools and packs when it makes sense.

Ridgid had a “lifetime service agreement” on their tools and battery packs IF you get the batteries as part of a kit and register them, but only 3yrs on the batteries purchased individually.

All of the good brands will use good cells, so you don’t have to worry about that if you don’t buy chinkshit. HF uses good cells in their Hercules and Bauer packs even, but I opened up a Bauer pack and there is no protection, the balancing is all done by the charger, but they don’t care because LOL 90-Day warranty on their tools.

[Anonymous No.1834969]

>>1833946
Also, what supplies besides cardboard do you use? Like is there a specific glue besides hot glue I should use?

[Anonymous No.1835061]

>>1834813

Thanks. It's all fucked but it's just so the back stains and landing have something other than dirt to sit on. Also, might keep the wildlife from going under that part of the house.

[Anonymous No.1835064]

>>1834813
>>1835061

Mixed it in an old fucking cooler because my life is a disaster. I live with my cousin and it's his place, but he sat inside playing video games while I mixed 25 bags of concrete.

Didn't burn the house down, so it could have always been worse?

[Anonymous No.1835066]

>>1835064

Going to look like dogshit but if my cousin didn't want to help, I wasn't going to care too much about it. Few hundred Kanuck-bucks and two days work if it all falls apart, so it could have been worse.

[Anonymous No.1835089]

>>1835061
>>1835066

Uhhhh...

Welll....

Yeah that looks like shit. Props on using the old cooler, I love improvised stuff like that.

What is the purpose of this, again? The bottom of some stairs will land on it? The correct way to do that is to put a footing 4' in the ground so that frost won't heave your stairs up. It doesn't take 25 bags of cement, either, but it does take some quality time with a spade and a post hole digger. In warm climates people do lazy shit like put stairs directly on the ground, or on a couple paver stones or rocks. That's not too bad without frost but I'm from Vermont and you said Canada, so.

Why the long pad just to put stairs on? You just wanted a little walkway area? How thick is that concrete actually? Is it at least 3"? You seem to have some kind of platform under your pad of concrete. I can't quite tell. What is the concrete sitting on? Just plain dirt? Wood? Crushed stone?

For future reference, when you make a concrete form, the top of the form should be equal to the top of the finished concrete. It should be nice and flush and level with where the top of the pad will be. The reason for this is so you can screed off excess, and trowel and edge it in place while it cures before removing the forms. Your forms extend way up, preventing this. Had you filled them up more I'm sure they would have blown out, being unsupported. Initially I mistakenly assumed you intended to make some kind of massive slab as a sort of over-engineered faux footing, but, what you have there is a poorly finished thin slab, by the looks.

Okay, so what you will be left with is a very porous unfinished long weird slab of concrete. Well, it probably won't snap in half with that mesh in it, but in a climate that freezes weather will start to wear on that pretty soon. What do the rest of the stairs look like? Do you have a picture that shows how the stairs are built and where they land?

Who owns the Bosch table saw and miter saw?

[Anonymous No.1835116]

>>1835089
Apologies for the shitty artwork.

[Anonymous No.1835124]

>>1835116
Oh! I was imagining you were describing the landing to a 2nd story staircase from a deck or something! See, this is the problem with discussing details without all the specifics; different people will assume different things.

Your artwork is better than mine. Okay, so your stairs are only going down 3'. Good. So basically you wanted a concrete walkway. Well it'll be porous and we didn't discuss expansion joints, but, yeah, it will be a 4x12 pad of concrete there for a while. Not the end of the world.

If the stairs are only going down 3', honestly with the hot mess you have going on there, I would build a little solid set of stairs and attach it to the house. 36" rise means you can have only three steps at 9" each, the 4th step will be into the door. Cut 4 stringers and block them up nice and strong and square and not racked and lag that fucker into the framing of the house 9" down from the threshold of the door. You will of course have to cut into the siding and flash your stairs for this plan.

Or just put it back how it was and say fuck it, your cousin sounds like a bum anyway. You didn't tell me who owns the table saw and miter saw yet.

[Anonymous No.1835129]

>>1835089
>>1835116

Floor level is ~3ft above grade. The back steps where taken out when the siding was replaced and extra insulation was added in last year.

The idea was to use the wood I already had to have a small landing come out from the back door and have the steps go from the decking down to ground level at the end of the exterior wall.

Having the decking at floor level gives enough room to keep the recycling boxes and other crap under there.

Plan was to bolt the deck frame to the house at one end and use 2 4x4 in those concrete footing things sitting on the concrete pad to hold up the other end.

I didn't want to auger out holes for proper footings because there are massive maple trees in the back and side yards close to the house and the roots are insane. Also, there is really old gravel and asphalt that would be a nightmare to dig through but to crappy and uneven to put those cast concrete footings on.

The roots cause a lot of heaving so the base of the concrete pad I poured is ~3" of packed sand, ~4" of gravel and then ~3" of concrete. It's going to crack and heave, but thought only have 2 not fixed footings would allow it to be adjusted so it stays level.

I fully admit to being a moron though and it could have just been a huge waste of time and effort.

[Anonymous No.1835135]

>>1833042

[Anonymous No.1835146]

It gets hot during summer on second floor.
How can I fix it? Because it is finally winter and it is finally cold in the attic.
Will gluing 1 inch styrofoam panel to roof fix my cooling and heating problems? I currently have, idk, 2 inches of fiberglass.

[Anonymous No.1835148]

>>1835129
>I fully admit to being a moron though and it could have just been a huge waste of time and effort.
I mean. Kinda. For something that's going to be a finished walkway area for trash cans etc I really would have suggested troweling and finishing it properly with expansion joints. But it also sounds like you're young and learning so don't take this to heart. It's not a bad 1st attempt.

You could also skim this thing you have there with say 1.5" of additional vinyl reinforced concrete. Make it nice and level and trowel finished with (kinda) expansion joints in it. That's something you could do in 2 days or 2 years from now if you wanted to.

But if they're not paying you or you don't care or whatever then. Eh. They got a free halfass slab.

[Anonymous No.1835186]

>fucked up steel door frame with pullup bar
>sanded it smooth and painted over it
>new paint is a bit the wrong colour but no big deal im gonna let it dry for a day and if it still looks shit just paint the whole frame
>paint looks like shit. Like its rough and chalky vs the old paint that feels solid thick and smooth like a powdercoating
What do? Did i buy shit paint or something? Im probably just gonna do a fuckload of coats then sand it with some really fine grip but obviously I've fucked something up cause no painter has to do that im sure

[Anonymous No.1835187]

>>1835186
Really shitty pic where you cant see anything related

[Anonymous No.1835189]

>>1835186
Sounds like you used maybe a flat or eggshell wall paint rather than the sort of high gloss enamel metal is often painted with. Rustoleum is a common example but any good paint store can mix it for you.

[Anonymous No.1835190]

>>1835189
Well fuck i wasted $30. Is that what low sheen means? I didnt get the gloss cause i thought it would be like new car shiny next the old shitty paint

[Anonymous No.1835191]

>>1835190
Gloss would be shiny. Bring a sample of the old paint in a paint store and ask them.

[Anonymous No.1835261]

How can you determine if lumber is decently priced/ is there a way to look up average costs of different types and cuts of wood?

Also how do people with cars that can't hitch a trailer transport wood from stores?

[Anonymous No.1835262]

>>1835261
>Also how do people with cars that can't hitch a trailer transport wood from stores?

jeez anon, think outside the box for once.

[Anonymous No.1835266]

>>1835261
I've never seen a car that can't hitch a small trailer.

[Anonymous No.1835278]

>>1835266

2013+ Ford Focus.

[Anonymous No.1835281]

>>1835278
You can carry just about anything 8' long as long as you don't have any passengers. Put down the back seat, put down the front passenger seat, and remove the front passenger headrest. I've gotten 8' 1x12 boards in there easily. Use some ratcheting straps to make sure they don't move. If I'm lazy I'll attach them to the passenger side oshit bar.
t. Owns a 2007 Ford Focus.

[Anonymous No.1835288]

>>1835281

I load my focus up like a pack mule. I have a 2013 hatchback and I can fit pretty much anything I want into except full sheets of plywood or drywall.

Was just saying that trailers are a no go.

[Anonymous No.1835311]

>>1835262
Did he died?

[Anonymous No.1835316]

Got myself an oldie green Bosch from 2010 for cheap. Chances are I'll throw out the NiCd cells in favor of Li-ion cells, so I wonder how many should I stuff inside since reaching 14.4V at max charge is not a possibility without auxiliary circuitry.
How bad would an overvolt of 2.4V be for a drill with a DC-motor?

[Anonymous No.1835319]

>>1832112
Siphon the gas tank, pull the spark plug and clean the oil off, put fresh gas in it, take off the air filter cover to expose the carburetor intake, spray some starting fluid in the carb and fire it up, keep spraying starting fluid as needed to keep it running. Because the engine is running the oil/gas mix will flow and run out, and soon the clean gas will start flowing normally through the carb. Should be good to go.

[Anonymous No.1835323]

>>1833042
Just when I think I've seen it all, you go and do this. Never change /diy/, never change. Also, throw that away what you are proposing is disgusting and weird. If my dad tried to give me a nasty dried up umbilical cord I'd be really creeped out. I know you think you are being sentimental but this is beyond weird. Throw it away and never mention you planned to do something like this.

[Anonymous No.1835334]

>>1835316
propably fine if you dont go full retard and stop when it smells
maybe the old switch can be hacked with an inline resistor on the trigger potty to limit full throttle by 10%

[Anonymous No.1835337]

>>1835334
Sounds like a good idea. Thanks for the suggestion.

[Anonymous No.1835339]

Cooktopfag again. The shaft on one of the switches is split down the length (pic related, left). It should look like pic on the right.

As it is, the knob won't catch because it doesn't have enough of that keyed surface to catch on.

I've already looked up a replacement switch but it's super old and no one has one like it anymore.

Is there a way to fix this without just epoxying the knob in place permanently?

[Anonymous No.1835342]

>>1835339
I'd get epoxy putty and use that to bring it back into roughly the intended shape then sand all the imperfections away.

[Anonymous No.1835349]

>>1832076
they do work. ive got a similar thing but its from small rodent animals instead. my sister has a ton of them and if i breath the air in a room with them i start sneezing like a madman. when one of those air filters runs for a bit i can breath fine. its taking small particles that would act as irritants out of the air. the reason it's loud is because it has to produce a big enough vacuum force to pull air through the thick ass filters.

tldr: get a gf that isnt a genetic dead end

[Anonymous No.1835371]

>>1835342
Sounds good, thanks

[Jimmy No.1835377]

How do you align a couch to a desk?

I'm not very interior decoration inclined and have no idea how to do it. Any advice from someone who isn't as dumb as I am would be appreciated.

Which one is it supposed to be, aligned or overhang? There's about a 10" space between the desk and the wall if I line it up, I might be able to get a thin endtable for that space and use it as expanded deskspace. I don't know.

Pic 1 of 2

[Jimmy No.1835379]

>>1835377
2 of 2

[Anonymous No.1835388]

>>1835377
>someone who isn't as dumb as I am

pupper seems to hold this opinion as well

[Jimmy No.1835390]

>>1835388
She knows I'm a lost cause.

[Anonymous No.1835421]

>>1833500
Tie them together with rope, wire, zip ties, etc. From bottom to near the exposed part. Glue in the back. You could unwind hemp rope for the fibers. Extra points if you use a perforated base (wire mesh or something you drill a fuckton of holes into), and push the fibers through two holes each, so that the middle sits in the back and the two ends protrude in front.

[Anonymous No.1835430]

>>1835377
Turn the desk 180 degrees so you face INTO the room. Move the couch to the wall on the left, so it faces the desk.

[Anonymous No.1835579]

Hi, absolute retard here,trying to find the least retarded way to make a temporary "driveway". The entrance is pretty soft soil and it's a bit uphill. Rwd truck doesn't help. It seems obvious to compact the soil and put down these pavers (I think that's what they are) and just take it slowly.

I'm aware there's guides to how to properly do this, but it's better if this is temporary. Just trying to avoid doing something obviously extremely dumb. going to see how it goes now

[Anonymous No.1835616]

>>1835377
would this setup work for your room?

[Anonymous No.1835709]

>>1835579
Smooth stone doesn't really give better traction than loose dirt. Get some hard pack or crushed stone. In the interim, try reversing up your driveway, or carrying more weight in the bed of your truck (sand bags).

[Anonymous No.1835782]

I want to make the king of the hill texas clock out of a wood slice that shows nice distinct but not jarringly high contrast annual rings. What sort of wood do I want that I can get in new england? Can I expect to be able to buy a dry 18+ inch diameter wood slice of various variety from a dealer? I'm assuming that to get one of decent size I'll have to chain saw my own or find someone on craigslist, and that will probably mean a green slice. I would worry about a green slice splitting. Can I impregnate the wood with epoxy or something to prevent splitting, and make the green wood immediately workable?

[Anonymous No.1835795]

>>1833042
compost it

[Anonymous No.1835822]

>>1833042
Mine is sitting in the change drawer because I never figured out what to do with it. Put it your wife's baby album or whatever.

[Anonymous No.1835838]

Anyone know the best way to transport lumber by bicycle?
I have a small shitty dog trailer that I took the canvas off of and I need to shove new bearings in the wheels, but idk how much weight it could safely hold. The better lumberyards are far enough away that I'd be concerned about it collapsing and going to shit on the side of a hill during rush hour.
I contemplated something like a surfboard rack, but a surfboard is a lot lighter than a 2xwhatever...

[Anonymous No.1835844]

>>1835782
just cut a bunch of slices from a tree shaped close
keep them moist so the center drys at the same rate as the outside and it wont check or shake

[Anonymous No.1835858]

>>1835838
Picture? I've seen some over-built to the point they could probably manage close to 150lbs and I've seen ten times as many which I wouldn't trust to support a chihuahua.

[Anonymous No.1836008]

>>1830235
i just installed rigid foam in a crawl. the walls arent exactly flat, so theres some small air gaps at the top and bottom between the boards and the wall. should this be sealed? spray foam? tape?

[Anonymous No.1836052]

>>1830235
Does anyone know of a brand of UV safety glasses for curing lights on Amazon?

I can't tell the cheap chink ones from actual things

[Anonymous No.1836061]

>>1836052
Was going to be getting this UV
actually looks decent review wise and shit, like it's actually a 365nm and not some bullshit """"UV""""395nm

https://www.amazon.com/Blacklight-Flashlight-Source-Filter-Detector/dp/B07BC8L581

[Anonymous No.1836074]

>>1830235
If my diagnostic computer is telling me that my trucks engines 4th cylinder is misfiring, and i want to test the fuel injector for that cylinder, then how do I determine which fuel injector goes to that cylinder?

[Anonymous No.1836076]

>>1836074
its either talking 4th cylinder in the line or the 4th in the firing order
the firing order is normally stamped on the intake

[Anonymous No.1836078]

What’s the best way to go about painting a plastic surface that will see moderate-heavy wear?

[Anonymous No.1836136]

>>1835858
I believe it's this one, I got it from a thrift store. I didn't realize I could attach the front wheel while it's hitched to the bike til now, so I might actually try that (not sure if it'd be worth it or if that's just the dumb chinese stock photo taken by someone who doesn't know what they're doing). I did carry a bunch of groceries and a 4x4 with it once but I had to cut the 4x4 at the store and it was pretty dodgy.

[Anonymous No.1836188]

>>1831348
If you did that you would have a never drying sticky mess. The thin layers soak in and build on top of one-another to create a protective layer. The proper way to do it is to thin the oil first and do a few coats so it soaks in really well then progressively move to the undiluted oil. That may be overkill for your project so just wipe some on and let it dry then occasionally put a bit more on to maintain it.

[Op No.1836205]

>>1836196

If anyone would kindly help, I’d appreciate it

[Anonymous No.1836208]

>>1836205
is it a old wood frame window? if it is inside the wall behind the trim are counterweights and pulleys one of the ropes broke

[Anonymous No.1836317]

>>1836008
Spray foam.
Make sure it's in a location that's not getting wet, either from leaks or from wicking up from concrete. Open cell spray foam (stuff sold in the rattle can) absorbs moisture and will encourage rot.

[Anonymous No.1836323]

>>1836078
>What’s the best way to go about painting a plastic surface
Sand it lightly with 100 grit to give the paint some tooth. Spray with rustoleum 2x brand, get the one that mentions plastic on the label (old product is a different formula not for plastics).

>that will see moderate-heavy wear?
Depending on what you mean by wear this might not be advisable at all.

[Anonymous No.1836337]

>>1830235
Any electricians know a good company to apply to in the US for travel work? I live in WV and recently graduated an electrical tech program(associates degree) but can't find any work so I'm looking into 100% travel jobs.

[Anonymous No.1836341]

>>1836337
join the union do power plants get mad overtime

[Anonymous No.1836368]

>>1835844
how long is that dry time?

[Anonymous No.1836369]

>>1836368
depends on how dry you want it
normally 6 months to a year

[Anonymous No.1836370]

>>1836369
I can deal with that. What aging setup do you imagine? I can't humidity control a room. Can I vacuum seal it and forget about it?

[Anonymous No.1836371]

>>1836370
just like under a roof to keep the rain water off it

[Anonymous No.1836373]

2 questions.
Can I use this metal(Pic related) as an anvil? I have some and I think it's galvanized, 7mm thick.
What can I make with socks I don't want? I made a heat pack. Anything else?

[Anonymous No.1836380]

>>1836373
>Can I use this metal(Pic related) as an anvil?
That metal is called a trailer. Looks like a good trailer, too. Why do you want to make it an anvil?

[Anonymous No.1836381]

>>1836380
Funny cunt. I have an offcut piece that comes from a caravan chassis.

[Anonymous No.1836385]

>>1836381
An anvil is solid. A trailer frame is hollow tube. No, you cannot forge things upon a hollow tube.

[Anonymous No.1836393]

>>1836385
Can I shove some wood in there to fill that gap or will the heat fuck it up?

[Anonymous No.1836403]

>>1836393
>shove some wood in there to fill that gap
Story of my life
But no, that won't work to forge things upon.

[Anonymous No.1836527]

>>1836373
Wear them as socks

[Anonymous No.1836911]

hi /diy/
I moved into an apt where the previous tenant left the screens on some of the windows out. I want to put them back, but I don't know how. There is a small lip at the bottom of the window that prevents me from putting the frame with the mesh in it through. I have attached a picture. I tried to pull out this lip but it doesn't seem to come out and I don't want to damage it. Does anyone know what I'm supposed to do?

[Anonymous No.1836913]

>>1836911
first replace that ripped screen second you just kind of ram it in it will go

[Anonymous No.1836922]

>>1836913
>ripped screen
Previous tenant seems to have taken a lighter to them (maybe some kid?), there are weird rips in all the screens for all the windows. I'm not going to fix them though, that should be on the landlord (who won't do it given the condition of the place when I got it)

>ram it in
The plastic lip at the bottom is not really flexible, I think it will snap if I try to force it any more than I am right now... is it possible you have to remove the inside window just to take out the screen? That would be ridiculous right?

[Anonymous No.1836960]

>>1836911
>>1836922
There are different styles of these but they're all simple once you figure them out. Usually there's a side that has springs on it (looks like curved pieces of metal) that keep tension on the screen to keep it in place. You put the spring side in first, squish the springs down, then the other side will fit over that lip of the track.

Your clue is these pull tab things (circled in yellow). You pull up on those to remove/replace the screen. So that tells you the spring side is the opposite side as the tab thingies, and the tab thingies face inside the house when you put the screen in.

[Anonymous No.1836962]

>>1836960
Forgot picture

[Anonymous No.1837002]

>>1835709
Yeah the smooth stone didn't help much at all. I was reversing with weight in the back but might have to put in more. Guess I'll look up cheap options for "hard pack/crushed stone". Thanks

[Anonymous No.1837019]

>>1836981
>>1836981

[Anonymous No.1837053]

>>1836911
the original screen is still in that window

[Anonymous No.1837135]

>>1831895
>Arent those sprays just compressed air?
No, they are filled with propellant. It stays liquid under a little pressure and returns to gas at room temp so you can store a lot in a small can.
If it was just compressed air it would run out in 2 puffs

[Anonymous No.1837186]

I have a small workbench I've been using for 4 years and it's not really ideal. I want to make a new one. Is it worth making it adjustable in height? I don't mean adding screw legs and adding a few mms, I mean adjusting 200mm or so.
Has anyone made one? How stable are they at the top height?

[Anonymous No.1837188]

Hey guys. Im a handyman and lately ive been getting a lot of trouble from clients.
They ask me for cost breakdowns and supply receipts. Something never agreed upon between us at the start of a job.

I actually dont markup materials ever so its no big deal but it’s just coincidentally happening often.

I wonder how you react to this situation? Is it normal? Is it some kind of known business tactic?

[Anonymous No.1837189]

>>1837186
no mount it on 4x6s bolted together it will be solid as fuck
also consider making a top of 2x6s nailed together that is top tier

[Anonymous No.1837191]

>>1837188
tell them get fucked your a business
also get at least 50% up front before you even start
its really easy to fuck people when its less than 10k

[Anonymous No.1837193]

>>1837188
Tell them you spent a lot of time researching and gathering the best places and deals you can get and that you can't just give that information away. Trade secrets and whatnot.
Approximations is the only information you can give away.

[Anonymous No.1837198]

>>1837193

As I mentioned, i dont look to profit off materials. It is easy to google how much things are these days. After 5 years this situation hasnt come up and then these last few months even before corona everyones just been bugging me about breakdowns and material costs. Its like they all watched some lame ass video on social media.

It is very annoying and leaves room for argument. This happens to you guys too? I dont really have any business buddies irl to ask.

[Anonymous No.1837205]

>>1837198
>As I mentioned, i dont look to profit off materials.
Irrelevant. Ask them if they ask a chef or the pharmacist how much ingredient costs.
>Can I get a break down on that big mac?

[Anonymous No.1837206]

>>1837205

Yeah i am passed that situation and was paid. Im just looking into the frequency of this question coming up lately and wondering if you guys can relate.

I feel like im the only guy this happens to.

[Anonymous No.1837209]

>>1837206
I can't relate but it's so obnoxious. They would never ask Apple for a part list for their overpriced facebook machine but they ask a small business for a breakdown on bolts, paint, rivets etc.
Where do these pricks live, what country?

[Anonymous No.1837210]

>>1837209

Florida USA. Its the wealthier crowd too bringing this stuff up

[Anonymous No.1837211]

>>1837210
avoid those people you will run into fucks who will play lawyer ball to get work done for free

[Anonymous No.1837212]

I usually look up "woodworking" on YT but I want to start looking into metalwork, fabrication, welding, etc. What's a catch all word for that sort of work?

[Anonymous No.1837213]

>>1837212
fabrication

[Anonymous No.1837218]

>>1837211

That is sort of how the situation played out. The person was trying to harm my reputation but it turned out I actually charges 6$ less than what the materials actually cost(out of 3.5k)

They though i was making thousands off them scamming them but turned out i lost 6 bucks after all the math came out.

But very obnoxious situation thats for sure. More so they wanted to hold my payment until dispute was over.

Gonna tell people to fuck off from now on though. You are right

[Anonymous No.1837247]

I store my Nintendo Switch game carts in an old mini DV tape case. I want to make it easier to select the cart I want by making a little J-card style pull out like pictured. I don't have a 3D printer available, any suggestions? I figure cardboard might work but the steps could be tricky.

[Anonymous No.1837377]

The foam on my shop vac exhaust needs to be replaced. What's a good material I can use instead of paying $13 for a new diffuser?

[Anonymous No.1837463]

i have to wash down the walls in order to remove this wallpaper glue for repainting
what should i do about the electrical outlets while washing?

[Anonymous No.1837524]

>>1830235
Anyone have lawn tips?
I think I finally have a solid foundation of grass, and the fertilizer is starting to kick in and give the bluegrass that amazing color, but the weeds!
I tried Preens weed control©®™ 3 days ago. Am conflicted as to if there are results - it may take up to 3 weeks.
Any suggestions?

[Anonymous No.1837529]

>>1837188
Itemized billing occurs with auto mechanics and healthcare. Prolly depends on your work, cost of project, and clients.

[Anonymous No.1837698]

This is a motion activated floor lamp. I want to remove the motion sensor part and make it an on and off switch. Anyone able to look at this and tell me what to do? I can solder but just don't know what to do. This is Chinese/EU wiring. I'll post a second up close picture. There is nothing on the back but a heatsink with thermal paste.

[Anonymous No.1837701]

>>1837698

[Anonymous No.1837702]

>>1837698
Forgot to say in this photo the power is coming from the right side and the left is the motion thing.

[Anonymous No.1837715]

>>1836052
>>1836061
Poke for love

[Anonymous No.1837739]

>>1837524
Start with a long term weed control early in the season. Before the weeds mature. I always had a hell of a time getting them under control once they get established. Granular stuff seems to work ok if applied very early. Sprays work the best for me after early spring.

[Anonymous No.1837898]

I've been looking for cheap 12V solenoid valves with no minimum operating pressure. It seems that the plastic ones always use this weird gasket setup that imposes some non-negligible operating pressure. All the zero operating pressure solenoid valves I see are brass and cost over $30. Anyone know where I can find cheapies?

[Anonymous No.1837919]

>>1837739
I appreciate it - I dethatched this spring and overseeded, but suspect that gave the weeds time to spread.
If I don't see results in the next two weeks from the granular, I'll pick up some liquid (USDA Zone 7 fwiw).

[Anonymous No.1837932]

Is it worth it to buy a new $400 Honda lawn mower? I have a large backyard and a decent sized front. My previous mower was a craftsman from 06 that was given to me. I hit a large root with it on accident last week and bent the crankshaft. I am afraid the same could happen to the Honda and I would've wasted a lot of money. Should I just pickup a cheaper mower or get a quality used one from craigslist?

[Anonymous No.1838315]

What kind of lock can I install on this cabinet in my desk? And how do I install it?

[Anonymous No.1838340]

>>1837932
get a good used one 100%

[Anonymous No.1838381]

Just finished new construction on a 3/4 acre lot and realized I have no idea how to properly water a lawn this size without buying half a dozen sprinklers or more and running a few at a time to avoid losing water pressure. Does /diy/ have any better recommendations? How the fuck does someone establish a lawn on a multi-acre lot without spending $$$$$ on an irrigation system?

[Anonymous No.1838394]

>>1838315
Something like this would work.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BDB686/

You'll need to drill a hole first, the instructions should tell you what diameter. Then install it according to the instructions. For a catch you can either cut a groove into the cabinet so the bar rotates into the groove when it's locked, or mount a piece of metal or wood above or below it on the side of the cabinet to catch the bar.

[Anonymous No.1838411]

>>1838394
Thanks. What's a good drill to start with? And other tools/power tools as well, I don't have much besides a hammer and a multi-bit screwdriver

[Anonymous No.1838417]

>>1838411
For power tools Makita, Milwaukee, or DeWalt are probably at the top of the stack, and other brands like Ryobi and Rigid are OK budget options. For hand tools I actually haven't found a company that I really like. I have a random assortment of Craftsman, Milwaukee, Klein Tools, Stanley, Husky, and Irwin tools. I've never particularly had a problem out of any of them but I don't think I can recommend any one of those brands over the others.

[Anonymous No.1838492]

What's the name of the machine that can cut designs into thin sheets of metal ( like say I have a sheet and want to cut out a star shape?

[Anonymous No.1838528]

>>1838417
Found this on cg, should I go for it?

[Anonymous No.1838529]

Door will not close. It's been like this since we bought the house. It doesn't look like the door is aligned incorrectly or anything. I was thinking of sanding it down to fit properly and close.

What would be the preferred method to get this door to close? Sand?

[Anonymous No.1838530]

>>1838528
that is a ripoff
thats for the 10 year old battery with no batteries included even when new they lasted like 5 minutes of use.
just go to harbor freight and buy the second cheapest corded drill it will be perfect for what you will use it for

[Anonymous No.1838531]

>>1838529
the hinges are probably sagged
get some 3 inch wood screws and change the screws over then start playing with shims

[Anonymous No.1838532]

>>1838492
Plasma table, or water jet.

[Anonymous No.1838546]

>>1838530
Thanks found a cheaper one (Warrior 1/2 in. 4.5A corded hammer drill). How do I go about installing the lock? Do I drill the hole for the lock where the red circle is and then either cut a groove or install a metal/wood piece where the blue circle is like >>1838394 said? If so where/how do I find the piece of metal?

[Anonymous No.1838548]

>>1838546
depends on the lock
how pretty does it need to be it would not be hard to put a hasp and a padlock

[Anonymous No.1838555]

>>1838548
Doesn't need to be pretty just needs to work. What's the advantage of a hasp/padlock over the cam lock?

[Anonymous No.1838556]

>>1838555
you just screw it to the outside and your done

[Anonymous No.1838559]

>>1838556
Dunno, wouldn't anyone be able to just unscrew the whole thing then?

[Anonymous No.1838560]

>>1838559
the way they fold it covers the screws

[Anonymous No.1838566]

>>1838560
Oh nice, will get that then thanks

[Anonymous No.1838619]

what kind of material will filter liquid/oil but not vapor? and will also be durable enough to not tear up straight away?

[Anonymous No.1838665]

>>1838619
What's the application?

[Anonymous No.1838726]

>>1838665
vaporizer sometimes doesnt vaporize and squirts out liquid
im 3d printing a cover to go over it and i figured i'd use some kind of cloth to catch the liquid

[Anonymous No.1838845]

Any one know what the these silver spring loaded doweling like bolts are? Googling "spring loaded bolt or doweling" doesn't have any effect. They came in our TV trays, but one side on one tray is missing it. Can't find it in the box. You push them in, slide the other pole over top this side and the pieces snap up into the locking position.