/3DPG/

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/3DPG/ Anonymous Wed Apr 22 16:31:03 2020 No.1803861 [Reply] [Original]

Incurable Meme Disease Edition
Old thread: >>1800654

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/43ZPzsET (embed)

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 4-7-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 Pro
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron, or Qidi X-One2/X-Smart/X-Maker
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: lulzbot is (mostly) dead
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Elegoo Mars

Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free for most users, that doesn't include (you).
Variants of Solidworks, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
http://www.autodesk.com/
http://www.solidworks.com/
http://www.openscad.org
http://www.freecadweb.org
http://www.blender.org/

Resins and their curing time.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1crvzMnt_8NJXAsABinoIhcOjE8l3h7s0L82Zlh1vkL8/htmlview?sle=true#gid=0

>>	Anonymous Wed Apr 22 17:23:21 2020 No.1803897 Does it matter if I get an original bltouch or a knock off.

Anonymous Wed Apr 22 18:05:36 2020 No.1803911

I cheaped out with my tax refund this year and grabbed a Monoprice Maker Select v2 to get into the hobby. It's been a fun and frustrating couple of months, and now that I know more, I wish to hell I had got the Ender 3 Pro. But oh well.

Anyway, one of the Y-axis rods was longer than the other by nearly 2mm, causing my frame to become warped over time, bed leveling to be nearly impossible, and in the most recent development it finally shat out chunks of bearing and fucked up the last layer of a 10-hour print.

Where can I get 8mm x 380mm rods and bearings that won't take 2 months to arrive and preferably aren't coated in wu-flu?

>>	Anonymous Wed Apr 22 18:24:12 2020 No.1803923 File: 3.13 MB, 4032x3024, 20200422_172238.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1803911 The print.

>>	Anonymous Wed Apr 22 18:25:59 2020 No.1803926 File: 2.78 MB, 4032x3024, 20200422_172247.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1803911 Also, mad wobble going on here.

Anonymous Wed Apr 22 18:31:57 2020 No.1803927

Why the fuck does my e3d v6 keep jamming? Thought that it wasn't being cooled enough with the 40mm fan just beside the heatsink so I printed this duct but it still jams later in the print anyway. Should the heatsink just be moved closer to the heatblock or something?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:354723

>>	Anonymous Wed Apr 22 19:58:23 2020 No.1803997 >>1803911 if its just 2mm then just sand it down. 2mm length doesnt sound like it should effect anything unless its bowing the frame.

Anonymous Wed Apr 22 20:11:12 2020 No.1804004
File: 56 KB, 557x483, benchy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

3D Printing is very addictive. I flashed custom firmware onto my Mega S today and with my fine tuning it absolutely nailed the benchy with the marble PLA I'm using.
Don't think I can do much better without installing hardware mods.

>>	Anonymous Wed Apr 22 21:21:20 2020 No.1804037 File: 1.25 MB, 3783x2840, {1}.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1804004 Sexy benchy. I just got my ender 3 pro and have burned through the starter roll, waiting on some filament to come in now.

>>	Anonymous Wed Apr 22 21:38:54 2020 No.1804045 >>1803927 Also thought it might've been too much retraction distance, so I lowered it from 4mm to 2.5mm. Still getting jamming/underextruding 5 layers or so into the print though.

>>	Anonymous Wed Apr 22 21:47:25 2020 No.1804052 >>1803927 >>1804045 open up, clean up what machine you using? is it a genuine e3d?

>>	Anonymous Wed Apr 22 21:49:15 2020 No.1804053 >>1803911 How is a longer rod going to effect it? As long as the threads are the same pitch and they spin the same amount then they will move whatever the same distance.

>>	Anonymous Wed Apr 22 21:49:39 2020 No.1804054 >>1804052 The thing is after clearing the jam it flows fine, it's just after a few layers that it starts fucking up all over again. Yea it's a genuine e3d v6, in an i3 mega (so a bowden machine).

Anonymous Wed Apr 22 22:14:46 2020 No.1804066
File: 2.98 MB, 3024x4032, IMG_20200423_031323.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1804037
Thanks. I also printed this Thwomp, though he didn't turn out quite as well. (I suspect scaling the model down to 30% and the way I printed it were at fault. But I do kind if like the imperfections on the face. Feels a little stylised)

Anonymous Wed Apr 22 22:25:21 2020 No.1804073

>>1804054
Another detail I've noticed is that after lowering the retraction distance to 2.5mm there was more stringing going on. Would be pretty disappointing if I have to pick between stringing and the whole thing jamming then underextruding on a genuine v6.

>>	Anonymous Wed Apr 22 22:28:35 2020 No.1804075 >>1804066 If you're using cura up the flow on the inner walls. To fix those gaps.

Anonymous Wed Apr 22 23:09:21 2020 No.1804090

>>1803997
>>1804053

You know, I think maybe that wasnt the problem. I loosened the grub screws and the rods just kinda went into place, must've come fucked up from the factory. Bent the frame back into shape, and now it looks pretty damn good in that department. Also went ahead and removed the bearing that spit out chunks. I hear switching to a 3-bearing setup should be an improvement, so we're gonna give it a shot. Gonna go get some white lithium grease in the morning, lube it back up and see if it'll print a benchy.

>>	Anonymous Wed Apr 22 23:18:11 2020 No.1804095 File: 558 KB, 797x865, catnose.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] FUCK Ulitmaker and FUCK the S5 material station.

>>	Anonymous Wed Apr 22 23:51:31 2020 No.1804102 >>1804073 z steps? new nozzle? filament cleaner? geared extruder? also lower retraction & speed will increase stringing and oozing. I don't think going so low is a practical solution

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 00:07:53 2020 No.1804113 >>1804102 It's a brand new e3d v6 with its stock nozzle. The extruder is the stock i3 mega one. The z-steps hasn't changed from the old hotend which worked well enough. Haven't changed the speed but I've tried lowering the temp and retraction distance.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 02:20:03 2020 No.1804153 File: 738 KB, 1902x1938, 1587457554755.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Have a picture of some pretty filament /diy/

Anonymous Thu Apr 23 03:01:19 2020 No.1804159
File: 2.87 MB, 4032x3024, 0AE41B7A-E907-45A3-9650-2D357C78DAA1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

RC guy from a few threads ago, designed and printed a prototype front bumper for a different car this evening. The stock part is a trash design and I think this will be a great replacement.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 03:02:24 2020 No.1804160 File: 2.36 MB, 4032x3024, 5F9B8D13-C061-4A8B-BEE6-EA4A8FD679F7.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1804159 And underneath. The bumper also acts as a skid plate and will help secure a vinyl chassis protector skin.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 03:13:36 2020 No.1804166 I put a titan extruder and e3d on my anet a6. Do I need to change the firmware because the nozzle is in a different place now?

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 03:20:26 2020 No.1804171 >>1804095 What do you mean? Cant you just use any filament you want?

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 03:20:51 2020 No.1804172 >>1804153 Is it any good, or does it look like dogshit when printed with infill like most clear filaments?

Anonymous Thu Apr 23 03:27:36 2020 No.1804176

>>1804166
Should be fine to just adjust your Z-endstop so you don't crash it into the bed.
A little difference in X and Y usually does fuckall.
Back in the day many printes didn't even have X and Y endstops. You would just manually move them to about the middle of your bed and it would print there.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 03:42:48 2020 No.1804180 >>1804172 I haven't printed with it yet, but it's called Iceland Blue. Results look pretty great to me.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 04:24:00 2020 No.1804193 File: 104 KB, 620x1004, 1585134556443.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Accidentally shortet a fan plug on my skr mini e3 aboard nd made some sparks. The 24 v pin melted but everything else is still working lmao

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 04:40:54 2020 No.1804201 >>1804193 How do people keep shorting their fan pins? Turn off its power while you connect shit on it, it's not rocket science.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 04:54:13 2020 No.1804205 File: 3.28 MB, 4160x3120, IMG_20200328_175219.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1803861 DID SOMEONE SAY "SKELETONS" AGAIN?

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 05:19:59 2020 No.1804213 File: 44 KB, 600x706, skelelad.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1804205 Nice detailing on the teeth despite the layer lines. Looks better than most painted FDM printed figures I've seen honestly

Anonymous Thu Apr 23 06:17:47 2020 No.1804225
File: 3.31 MB, 4160x3120, IMG_20200416_193023.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1804213
yeah, the camera makes the lines pop out pretty badly.
I printed it with a 0.2 nozzle and if you didn't look at it closely under direct light you wouldn't see them

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 07:25:16 2020 No.1804247 File: 104 KB, 695x803, spooky.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1804205

Anonymous Thu Apr 23 08:43:39 2020 No.1804265
File: 44 KB, 474x341, e32ee83a6e350af5ed7e84a5508ca8c5.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>prints not sticking
>level and relevel but even when it looks like a perfect first layer come down later and a corner has lifted
>small brim doesnt work
>make brim 18mm
>print sticks perfectly
Now to deal with layer separation
Too bad a big brim wouldn't help with that

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 08:53:39 2020 No.1804278 >>1804265 >select file to print >walk away, dont bother to look >it just works, print goes flawlessly

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 09:44:54 2020 No.1804291 File: 3.04 MB, 4160x3120, IMG_20200328_182418.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1804247 rattle rattle

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 09:53:09 2020 No.1804294 >>1804265 clean your bed with some alcohol before printing, it did wonders with adhesion problems for me

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 10:27:55 2020 No.1804306 Is there a big print time difference between slicers? I use cura and Ive seen my printer do some retarded paths which could be optimised

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 10:29:20 2020 No.1804307 >>1804278 based and prusapilled

Anonymous Thu Apr 23 10:29:38 2020 No.1804308

So I swapped from the glass bed to the stock and that seems to have fixed my adhesion and warping problems, but now that the clips lost some springiness the bed can shift instead of the print itself. just woke up to my buildplate full off the mount and my printer stringing filament into the air over the heatbed.

whyyyyy are all these solutions shit, i shoulda just picked up the magnetic beds before corona now i have to wait like a month

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 10:42:15 2020 No.1804312 >>1804306 >Is there a big print time difference between slicers? Print time mostly depends on speed and acceleration which any worthwhile slicer will allow you to set to your liking so thats a no.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 10:48:13 2020 No.1804313 >>1804278 >ezabl still in the US after a week shipping to aus Might run out of filament before it comes at this rate.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 10:57:10 2020 No.1804314 >>1804313 abl is trash anyway flat bed > abl

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 11:06:02 2020 No.1804315 >>1804314 I mean if your bed is like a landscape nothing could save it. Abl is just so it's always at the right height when it starts printing, so it grips, but doesn't squish.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 11:12:10 2020 No.1804318 >>1804315 for the cost of abl id rather invest in a flat bed did you realize abl doesn't give you a flat bottom? the part follows the contour and you get hills n valleys its a gimmick that gets shilled way too much for what its worth

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 11:15:20 2020 No.1804320 >>1804318 All you need for ABL is a 2$ Z-probe.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 11:25:39 2020 No.1804325 >>1804318 If you already have a flat bed then abl is just a QoL enhancement

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 11:34:20 2020 No.1804331 >>1804325 if you have a flat bed it is unnecessary bloat abl is not more accurate than just the endstop

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 11:44:47 2020 No.1804338 >>1804314 >flat bed > abl Its not that simple. Flat beds are heavy which is bad for printers with a bed moving on X or Y. For those a leightweight slightly uneven bed + abl is a better choice than a heavy flat bed.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 11:46:18 2020 No.1804340 >>1804338 >Flatness = heavy Brainlets get out

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 12:04:01 2020 No.1804354 >>1804340 Enlighten me

Anonymous Thu Apr 23 12:04:36 2020 No.1804355

>>1804338
generally true but i doubt anyone runs a medel like on >100mm/s while doing anything accurate or optical appealing
with a heavy bed you can tremendous improve visuals by doing outer perimeter 25-50% slower than infill
i prioritize this way
results > handling > speed
For reference, what new printer still sells with lightweight bed? The new ender 3v2 ships with alu+glass, that should be ~1kg for the whole y axis
a CR10 has 750g on the plate alone + carriage and some put glass ontop

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 12:15:39 2020 No.1804365 >>1804338 should have built a CoreXY

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 12:22:04 2020 No.1804371 >all these peasants with moving beds worrying about weight Deltabros where we at?

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 12:25:22 2020 No.1804374 >>1804371 >Deltabros where we at? Still trying to get that end effector ballanced.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 12:29:07 2020 No.1804377 >>1804371 here the only bed that moves is the one I fuck prusaboi's mom in

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 12:32:44 2020 No.1804383 >>1804201 Probably installing the pins backwards. Theres no polarity on what it connects to on mine so its guess and prey for me.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 12:33:22 2020 No.1804384 File: 142 KB, 862x543, Cartesian.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1804371 Delta a shit t. operator of the biggest delta ITT

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 12:39:34 2020 No.1804388 >>1804384 >make a retardly huge delta >ton of weight on the effector >wonder why it sucks

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 12:47:32 2020 No.1804396 >>1804374 >not just using a smart effector for ez calibration I suppose I shouldn't expect much from the cartesian bois

Anonymous Thu Apr 23 12:52:05 2020 No.1804401
File: 73 KB, 1000x1000, 61MAPClqHYL._AC_SL1000_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

So it's a thoughtcrime in Australia to 3D print gun parts, or even possess the files or designs.

Does anybody know whether this extends to things like guillotines? I mean like the portable handheld type with a high torque winch and a loop of piano wire

Somewhat related, is etsy still the best place to sell your plastic shit?

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 12:56:07 2020 No.1804408 >>1804383 but that should just make the fan run in reverse retarded but no reason for a short

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 12:56:56 2020 No.1804409 >>1804365 redpill me on corexy

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 13:10:10 2020 No.1804420 >>1804409 Want better prints than on your ender 3? Not smart enough for delta? Build a corexy.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 13:13:14 2020 No.1804423 >>1804401 what about a trebuchet

Anonymous Thu Apr 23 13:23:45 2020 No.1804429

>>1804423
What about them?
ymmv but it's not really necessary to assault any fortifications when you and your buddies can just put on suits then exercise your democratic right (in the classical sense) blow past someone's secretary and throw them out a fucking window

But if you do gotta then someone should point out that mortars are pretty low tech yet make siege engines p much obsolete, and if you wanna be a hipster you could 3D print a clockwork fuze mechanism I guess

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 14:55:05 2020 No.1804499 Does anybody have a Flashforge Creator Pro? If so I'd like to hear about your experiences with it. I have one arriving next week.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 15:31:47 2020 No.1804527 File: 40 KB, 355x362, 1449851321199.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1804499 a fool and their money are soon parted

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 16:49:25 2020 No.1804566 >>1804205 I honestly really like the look the lines give it.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 17:05:07 2020 No.1804569 File: 58 KB, 435x431, josef.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1804499 go ahead, buy that printer and see how it works out for you

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 17:07:50 2020 No.1804571 File: 1.12 MB, 1713x2691, IMG_20200423_230525.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Just finished today, pla print on a renkforce 100v2.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 17:08:53 2020 No.1804573 File: 605 KB, 1403x1930, IMG_20200423_230648.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1804571 And another one, video here: https://youtu.be/vkNZsx4Ykoo

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 17:22:18 2020 No.1804586 File: 167 KB, 1500x1500, 1587675865648[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] i need some help, maybe someone is up for it. i have this printer.

Anonymous Thu Apr 23 17:23:21 2020 No.1804587
File: 28 KB, 461x243, extruder[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1804586
it has this filament intake mechanisms.
after diassembling/cleaning that today the printer stopped pushing through the filament when printing. turns out the cogs dont move the filament into the extruder, they just clack a bit while the filament moves in and out a tiny bit.

i looked at it disassembled in the change filament mode and the cogs turn just fine without a sound. i also removed and inserted the filament three times, it moved it in and out without issue. starting a real print had the same result each time. i dont want to start a print siassembled since the print head moves around and i cant see whats happening.

any advice?

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 17:48:25 2020 No.1804604 >>1804587 you tried turning it off and on again?

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 17:50:09 2020 No.1804605 File: 2.93 MB, 4032x3024, 20200423_161400.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Getting crazy z wobble here... Any idea what could cause it? Maker Select V2.1 with the Z-brace mod installed.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 17:51:27 2020 No.1804606 >>1804604 and i thought /g/ was unhelpful

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 17:56:00 2020 No.1804614 >>1804605 has it printed un-wobbly before? looks like its moving around too much. is the printer on a table or something? you can try putting it on the ground.

Anonymous Thu Apr 23 18:03:33 2020 No.1804618

Prusa mk3 80% done based on the haribo bear consumption.Taken me about 10 hours so far while l "work" from home. No major hiccups yet, assembly has been smooth. Worried it's all going to shit the bed once it's actually powered on and I have weeks of troubleshooting ahead.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 18:04:43 2020 No.1804620 >>1804614 It's on a solid surface. What gets me is the lines are evenly spaced and in a pattern.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 18:10:04 2020 No.1804622 CMON CHINA SHIP PARTS FASTER

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 18:13:43 2020 No.1804626 >>1804620 its not about being even or not. its about whether or not the whole surface can move laterally. pattern would fit the interference wobble narrative

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 18:39:19 2020 No.1804640 >>1804620 excentric connection between stepper motor and lead screw

Anonymous Thu Apr 23 19:37:14 2020 No.1804669

>>1804171
You can. It also takes about 15 minutes just for the S5 to go through it's priming cycle if you're using the material station. Also it really likes to snap breakaway material when retracting it from the bowden tube. Also, if you get a really nasty jam that can't be solved by shoving a piece of filament through, reassembly is a pain in the ass.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 19:41:57 2020 No.1804671 File: 1.31 MB, 288x360, 1586551723478.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] I really want to convert an old cnc bridgeport knee mill into a 3D printer just for the memes but I don't have the space.

Anonymous Thu Apr 23 20:10:29 2020 No.1804677
File: 1.12 MB, 3264x1836, IMG_20200423_195239.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

First layer prints fine enough, then it starts jamming/underextruding past that. Using a genuine e3d v6, retraction distance set to 3mm (40mm/s speed), temp set to 200C, max comb distance with no retract is 40mm. Do I just have to not retract with this hotend? If so how the hell is it going to cope with PETG which requires retracting all the time?

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 20:16:19 2020 No.1804679 File: 124 KB, 702x527, IMG_20200423_201429.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1804677 This turd is what the end of the filament looks like after pulling it out of the hotend too.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 20:24:34 2020 No.1804684 >>1804677 moar heet

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 20:30:53 2020 No.1804685 >>1804684 I'll try 210 but I'm not gonna hold my breath to be honest.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 21:00:39 2020 No.1804701 >>1804571 How did you make the whiskers? 3D pen?

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 21:02:43 2020 No.1804702 >>1804677 >what looks like tree supports on a dactyl Does this actually work well? For me Cura's preview shower an absolute shitshow of random gaps and floating branches so I gave up

Anonymous Thu Apr 23 21:03:37 2020 No.1804703

>>1804614
If the entire table was wobbling, wouldn't the printer, print bed, and nozzle all wobble together in the same directions with the table surface? As long as the printer frame is solid and the printing surface is securely fastened to the bed, why would the bed be wobbling relative to the nozzle, even if the printer as a whole is being jostled?

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 21:03:44 2020 No.1804704 >>1804587 Nozzle clog, or pinch PTFE tube. You should always have spares of both handy. Alternatively the feeder gears are full of plastic dust.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 21:04:15 2020 No.1804705 >>1804499 >Flashforge Terrible brand

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 21:05:05 2020 No.1804707 >>1804677 Could it be slicer settings? In Cura, for example, there are a lot of settings that are different between the first layer and the subsequent layers. Maybe one of those differences is why the first layer prints, but not the others.

Anonymous Thu Apr 23 21:10:32 2020 No.1804712 [DELETED]

File: 8 KB, 404x158, tree settings.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1804702
Tree supports work well enough for me, though I hear mixed results depending on the model. Guess that's why it's still in experimental. >>1804707
I just have the first layer printing real slow (15mm/s) and 5C hotter than the rest of the layers. So it'd be 215C first layer then 210C rest for the test print I'm doing now. My suspicion is that it's the retraction fucking things up though.

Anonymous Thu Apr 23 21:11:38 2020 No.1804713
File: 8 KB, 404x158, tree settings.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1804702
Tree supports work well enough for me, though I hear mixed results depending on the model. Guess that's why it's still in experimental.
>>1804707
I just have the first layer printing real slow (15mm/s) and 5C hotter than the rest of the layers. So it'd be 215C first layer then 210C rest for the test print I'm doing now. My suspicion is that it's the retraction fucking things up though.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 21:20:03 2020 No.1804717 >>1804713 adding retraction will help with the stringing, but more heat and a nozzle cleaning will help with your "jamming/underextruding" issue, if you have a feed tube, make sure the fitting arent fucked on that while your pissing with it

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 21:27:33 2020 No.1804721 File: 48 KB, 720x463, It's coming.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1804499 You've made a terrible mistake. >>1802450 >>1802459

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 21:31:04 2020 No.1804723 >>1804499 Get a fucking refund immediately if they try to chink you, go to your fucking bank and get your money back that way

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 21:32:00 2020 No.1804724 >>1804717 That print was right after taking the hotend apart & cleaning it is the thing. Just using the stock v6 bowden clip & some capricorn; don't think it's fucked or anything like that.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 21:38:41 2020 No.1804726 File: 632 KB, 2490x1506, potato pic.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Probably gonna jinx it now, just changing the temp to 210 seems to have improved results at least.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 21:48:22 2020 No.1804728 >>1804726 just because the filament roll says 210 as a limit doesn't mean it'll burn the moment you go above it I rock every PLA roll I get at 225 with no problems

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 21:56:26 2020 No.1804730 >>1804728 Yea I'll just keep it to at least 210 for PLA. Weird since I've read other people with jams saying that reducing temp/extrusion distance solved it. Not the same problem I guess.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 22:36:36 2020 No.1804744 >>1804726 all that stringiness is due to your retraction settings. temp sensor on your block might be miscalibrated? what's your initial layer temp?

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 22:39:18 2020 No.1804745 >>1804744 Initial layer was 215C. Turns out I did jinx it though since it did the same thing again just a few layers later. So I'm trying 220C for the whole print now.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 22:43:54 2020 No.1804749 >>1804677 >>1804726 I know someone with an e3d v6 with a bowden, and they use 4mm@25. Also, what filament? I have an inkling that's the prusament gentlemens grey, if you're who I think you are.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 22:46:41 2020 No.1804751 >>1804749 Yea it is the prusament. I suppose if 220C doesn't do it then I can try lowering the retraction speed to 25mm/s.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 22:49:06 2020 No.1804753 >>1804751 In theory lowering the retraction speed and upping distance should make it worse, but since you're trying to fix it I hope it does work. I take it you've calibrated your e-steps and all that?

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 22:53:08 2020 No.1804756 >>1804753 >I take it you've calibrated your e-steps and all that? Does that matter if I haven't changed the extruder though? The e-steps worked with the stock hotend at least.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 22:54:55 2020 No.1804758 >>1804756 Sometimes a different PLA may provide a different grip on the extruder gear (harder/softer). It's usually good just to double check. If it was fine with other plastics the difference may be less than 5mm.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 23:16:25 2020 No.1804765 >>1804701 I used the skirt from another print. Cut that to pieces and used Super glue to fix it.

Anonymous Thu Apr 23 23:50:26 2020 No.1804779

>>1804758
Turns out that it extruded ~92mm through the hotend instead of 100mm. Now that I've actually changed the e-steps I suppose I can just compensate for the difference in other types of filament using the flow % in cura.
I'll try another test now at 215C for the whole print and the retraction set to 3.5mm & 25mm/s. Hopefully it doesn't fuck up at layer 7 or something like that.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 23:52:44 2020 No.1804780 My prints are sticking to the bed fine with Cura, but I absolutely can not get them to stick for the life of me with PrusaSlicer. Any suggestions?

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 23 23:55:02 2020 No.1804781 >>1804779 You can compensate with cura, but you'll need to also compensate your retractions and such if you wanna do it through the slicer. >>1804780 What's the first layer flow rate in cura vs prusaslicer? iirc prusaslicer has that setting too.

Anonymous Thu Apr 23 23:57:41 2020 No.1804784

>>1804781
>you'll need to also compensate your retractions and such if you wanna do it through the slicer.
I'll likely make separate profiles for each filament I'm using then. Don't want to recalibrate every time I swap filament types since I do that often enough that it would be a pain in the ass.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 00:00:12 2020 No.1804785 >>1804784 Also recommend just getting a wire brush and cleaning your extruder gear each time you swap.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 00:41:43 2020 No.1804806 >>1804499 Flashforge isn't bad but they have some bad and outdated products and I haven't heard good things about that one

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 00:43:01 2020 No.1804808

>>1804721
I needed a dual extruder printer under $1k, that didn't leave a lot of options.
I read about some of its issues before I bought it, but it was cheap so I'm going to see what I can do with it.
I expected inconsistent/poor build quality and questionable assembly decisions, I'm more interested in its DEX performance. I want to use it for printing parts that were designed to use soluble support.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 01:48:36 2020 No.1804836 >>1804808 nigga you can turn any printer into a dual extruder printer, and easily at that do your fucking research rather than pissing your money away on suffering in a box

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 02:02:20 2020 No.1804841

>>1804808
Well, you've already ordered it, so keep an open mind and see how you feel about it when it arrives. I've seen excellent prints out of similar machines although design criticisms about proprietary hotends and stuff are valid. But you've gotten the answer you're going to get here... though keep in mind this is a 4chan thread where groupthink faggotry rules and most users are talking directly out their ass at any given time

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 02:05:09 2020 No.1804843

I'm starting to like S3D, but am only using the windows version """trial""". Is there a linux installer available for if your purchase it? Does anyone here that uses linux use it?
>>1804841
kinda this, was genuinely curious about what makes prusa so great after all the shitposting, so I looked up some videos to look at the print quality and it's not bad, but it's nothing better than what I can do. I think it's just the fact that they're built properly (firmware and driver side especially), and you have guarantees if they don't work.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 02:32:37 2020 No.1804847 Are there any good touhou 3d models I want to print the smol?

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 03:06:09 2020 No.1804858

>>1804704
ive cleaned the whole feeding mechanism, taking out residue and letting hotend sit at 220°c for a few minutes before messing around with a pin.

the weird thing is that the feeder gears work when i insert filament (it just keeps pushing it in and through the extruder)

ill try cleaning the gears with pressurized air.

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 03:18:55 2020 No.1804861

>>1804858
>>1804704
>>1804587
>>1804586
it might be this issue:
Extruder frequently becomes jammed, but works fine briefly after clearing the jam
Thermal isolator or cold end getting too hot
Put a small fan on the hot end to cool the top.

i will try renewing the thermal paste between hotend and cooler

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 05:08:14 2020 No.1804899

>ender 3
how do I make Y axis movement quieter without TMC drivers? the build plate jiggles a little, do I need to tighten something for that? it's easily the loudest part of printing and the high pitched sounds during circular movement is pretty brutal. the only overnight prints I can run are ones that are mostly X and Z axis movement. the printer is mostly quiet, or at least tolerably so, otherwise.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 05:54:45 2020 No.1804906 >>1804899 y axis has to move a fair amount of weight. Silent board is more or less your only option. Maybe place some foam dampeners under the feet?

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 06:31:18 2020 No.1804914
File: 73 KB, 1182x381, tmc22xx.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>Don't use these drivers on Z or E.
Can someone explain to me why I shouldn't use TMC22xx drivers on the Z and E drivers? Is it that I don't have to or that it can cause problems if I do?

I have 5pcs 2208v3 and 5pcs 2209v12 on the way and I'm wondering if I'm fucked?

What if I want to experiment with sensorless homing on the Z axis? Will I have to get a TMC2130 just for that?

Sauce:
https://github.com/superjamie/lazyweb/wiki/3D-Printing-TMC22xx-Quick-Guide

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 07:47:08 2020 No.1804936 File: 416 KB, 2187x1836, compliantXYswastika.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] I printed a compliant XY swast... stage. Its ugly but works, this was just a test before i redesign and print it out of steel.

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 07:48:14 2020 No.1804937
File: 76 KB, 524x524, 1582789394310.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

hey
does anybody know how to adjust only the height of the priming route ?
my printer CR10V2 (unmodded) prints the priming track always "lower"...
meaning the priming lane is perfect but then when it goes to print the actual print the nozzle moves up despite negative Zadjustment
so that it always requires manual babystepping (-0.500) to get a proper result
i already tried to add up the -0.5 to the Zadjustment but then the nozzle scratches the printbed
i use BLTouch to measure the bed and additionally before auto bed "leveling" i measure all four corners of the bed as well as centres of the sides
the bed is exactly 2 inches from the top of the main frame structure and the Zaxis top is 3 and 1/2 inch from the lower main frame after auto leveling so i somewhat can exclude the possibility that the bed was uneven i guess, or am i skipping something here ?
i would like to have the priming path on the same height as the later actual print without having to adjust it by hand every single time...

my suspicion is that the left side of the zaxis is simply heavier due to the extruder motor, filament sensor etc.
if compared to the other side of the axis where there are only the rollers in comparrison, so that effectively if the zaxis moves the left side it gets pushed down more due to the weight and therefor the right side travels up more ( if the motors turn equally ) could this be real ? i mean i am thinking about tightening the rollers but i dont believe this would be the proper solution....

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 08:01:58 2020 No.1804942 >>1804937 >priming lane Have you tried adjusting the GCODE script?

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 08:23:01 2020 No.1804948

>>1804914
2208 and 09 are weaker than allegro drivers, this shows especially on 12v with stealthchop.
24v systems its not an issue at all, as long as there is no mechanic issue go full 256 interpolation + stealthchop
doing E and Z with allegro drivers can be good for 3 reasons. It conceals underlying mechanical issues like clogs or misalignment, Allegros dont need as good of a drive cooling (on those higher current axes) and the drivers are pretty cheap

>sensorless homing on the Z axis
why? this sounds like a lot of headache for worse precision than a tactile switch

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 08:26:55 2020 No.1804950

>>1804780
By default prusaslicer has a huge first layer height - I think the default layer height is 0.2 and then it sets the first layer to 0.35. For me, I had issues getting any filament to grip the bed at all with 0.35 distance, but I changed the first layer to 100% and it works fine now.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 08:34:57 2020 No.1804953 delta or polar

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 08:53:35 2020 No.1804959

>>1804948
So in order for the TMC22xx drivers to be utilized properly would the printer best be 24v instead of the current 12v?

>worse precision than a tactile switch
I thought it would make sense to use the resolution of the stepper motors to level the bed instead. Is that so much worse than using a BL-Touch or one of its clones?

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 09:01:25 2020 No.1804964

>>1804959
i dont run 12v so i cant tell from experience.
tmcs dont do good on sub 18v at all. Talking 1/3 the torque in stealthchop (depending on speed)
Upgrading everything to 24v is expensive
If you were able to hook up 18-24v for the drivers alone you wouldn't have asked
simple mechanical buttons as on stock printers are stupidly accurate and have excellent repeatability

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 09:46:43 2020 No.1804996 >>1804936 whats it for? can you share the stl?

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 10:03:40 2020 No.1805012 >>1804950 Is prusaslicer worth using even when you don't have an i3? The original Slic3r hasn't been updated for years and Cura is starting to piss me off more and more.

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 10:07:40 2020 No.1805019

>>1805012
prusaslicer has settings for some popular machines from other brands, but the profiles aren't likely to be perfect.
Have a crack at torrenting S3D, I'm really liking it so far, although I still need cura for tree supports building dactyls, and the overall lack of customisation is a little annoying the print quality is great.

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 10:12:39 2020 No.1805024

>see the notification about displaylayerprogress plugin for octoprint causing layer shifts
>have a look on the plguin page
>says it goes through the gcode and looks for a "LAYER" string using fucking regex
Using regex in any sort of performance-constrained based scenario should be punishable by death

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 10:14:28 2020 No.1805028 >>1803927 Try raising the temp and seasoning the plastic. You may just need a more powerful extruder, or direct extruder

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 10:15:12 2020 No.1805030

>>1805012
I don't have nearly enough experience to be able to give a conclusive opinion, but my impression is that prusaslicer "feels" a lot more solid and professional and reliable, while cura looks like a webdev's attempt to make a "pretty" slicer. Plating is much much nicer in slic3r - you have an orthographic camera (I didn't find a way to enable that in prusa), you don't need to reslice from scratch if you add/remove models or move them around on the plate, things like this.
It's hard to say which one has more flexible settings - right off the bat I wasn't able to find a way to adjust infill/skin angle on cura, but it's right there in slic3r. Maybe I'm just bad at looking. But by total options it feels like cura has more of them, for more granularity - change every setting like extrusion/speed/temperature/whatever the fuck else for the first layer, change them all for perimeters, for the top skin, for the bottom skin, for the outer walls... etc. I'm not sure how often you need them. Variable layer thickness in slic3r is interesting, though I've never used it yet. Cura has some stuff like tree supports which nothing else seems to have. I honestly don't know whether anyone truly ever needs the gigantic set of settings in cura.
I'm mostly using slic3r now, if only because it's FOSS and it's actually pleasant to use. I've still got cura around in case I ever need it.
Oh yeah another thing is I fiddled around with the start and end gcodes because the default ones in slic3r are really minimal, without even having an initial nozzle wipe. The ender 3 profile seems to have a better one. I just merged stuff I liked from that and the cura code.
>>1805019
Does S3D also have less options than cura? You'd think the most expensive "professional" option would be the most flexible as well.
Also, did you actually notice print quality differences between slicers? I haven't noticed any between cura and slic3r, but then again I don't print much and I haven't benchmarked anything.

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 10:18:02 2020 No.1805035

>>1805030
My main issue was s3d not letting me adjust the skin flow rate, but I got around it by tuning the main flow rate. I compared the poles on a stringing test in S3D and cura and it blew me away, S3D was by far and away nicer for just layer consistency. XYZ calibration cube was closer, but s3d was still far superior.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 10:26:09 2020 No.1805046 >>1805035 Huh. I would have imagined gcode generation should be easy enough as to be an essentially solved problem by now. Maybe I'll pirate it and give it a try.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 10:28:56 2020 No.1805052 >>1804420 Delta has less XY build space.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 10:36:08 2020 No.1805058 >>1805046 I don't fucking get it either. If I keep finding the results pleasing I might just buy it so I can get the linux installer. Really jewish you only get 10% off for the education discount but w/e.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 10:48:14 2020 No.1805069 >>1805058 I've found a cracked Linux version. But not the latest version, only 4.0.1.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 10:49:16 2020 No.1805071 >>1805069 Can you link it/tell me where to go? I'm only running 4.0, so that doesn't matter.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 10:54:49 2020 No.1805074 >>1805069 Also just realised S3D hasn't been updated in 2 years. Been on 4.1 since nov 2018.

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 10:57:10 2020 No.1805077

>>1805071
I got it from this dodgy website (was just the first result in yandex):
https://shareappscrack.com/simplify3d/

The crack instructions are a bit wrong though: Don't run the binary directly, instead add the LD_PRELOAD to LaunchScript.sh and run that instead.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 11:01:09 2020 No.1805079 >>1805077 Much appreciated. I'll run it tomorrow.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 12:03:08 2020 No.1805119 How loud are 3D printers? My PC room is on the same floor as my bedroom will it be loud enough to be heard while I sleep? Is it safe to be in the same room as it as it prints? I know resin is carcinogenic but what about plastic filament ones?

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 12:06:46 2020 No.1805123 Whats the difference between the Ender 3D and Ender 3D Pro?

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 12:07:43 2020 No.1805124 >>1805119 Depends on the printer, for example, with an MK3S you can sleep in the same room And as for filaments, there is no concrete evidence but from what i know but PLA should be fine, certainly wouldn't want to be in the same room with ABS

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 12:09:00 2020 No.1805126 >>1805124 So I'm best off keeping it in its own room if possible I guess? Or at least only printing overnight when I'm not in the room?

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 12:09:46 2020 No.1805127 >>1805119 pla is safest, i have ender 3 pro, its in another room, shared wall, i cant hear it running >>1805123 build height, magnetic build plate

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 12:11:14 2020 No.1805128 >>1805127 >magnetic build plate What's the advantage of this?

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 12:23:14 2020 No.1805139
File: 1.44 MB, 4032x1960, quality-atrifacting.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1805128
i print on the magnetic build plate, when its done i just lift the corner and the print pops off, and then its ready to go again, no tape, no gluestick, no voodoo magic fuckery,

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 12:23:21 2020 No.1805140 >>1805126 Wouldn't worry about PLA

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 12:23:48 2020 No.1805141
File: 110 KB, 754x591, crealityWebSites_2020-04-24.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

what do I do now?

in all seriousness though is there any decent company that's not chinese? want to try not give them money
if so what's the best bang for buck, I'd love a <250 but if it's more then grand
if not then just get the creality off amazon?

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 12:24:34 2020 No.1805142 >>1805139 Sounds worth it to avoid fuckaboutery

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 12:24:38 2020 No.1805143 >>1805141 prusa

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 12:27:10 2020 No.1805147

>>1805126
You're probably not printing ABS without a specific reason. PLA's probably gonna be your standard stock and it's supposed to be pretty safe.

I have a fairly quiet printer with an enclosure that makes it even quieter next to my bed. Some days I could sleep with it, other days I might find it annoying. I could see getting used to it pretty quickly if I wanted to.
But in a different room you'd be totally fine.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 12:29:07 2020 No.1805149 >>1805141 i got my ender 3 for 200(from a local store) assembled it carefully, calibrated it, and have had no trouble with it in 5 months of use, >>1805142 id say so

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 12:37:28 2020 No.1805154

>>1804936
I stick tiny samples on top of it for CT scanning. I can adjust the xy position of the sample very finely in a range of around +-1mm.

>stl
Not right now. I want to improve it further before releasing it. Perhaps make a parametric openscad file too when im done with the testing.
Also its literally 1 line width of squiggles, its pretty easy, you can probably model it in 10 minutes. The lines are .7mm, spacing is 1mm, the 4 corner holes are around 30mm apart.

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 12:38:35 2020 No.1805156

>>1805143
cheers
>>1805149
reliability is a major point, but I've got reservations
their shitty numbers, and bribery and attitude left me stuck in the house during summer, can't try talk to ladies, can't see my grandparents, stuck with my dick in my hand, not about to give them a decent whack of my cash
I'd need a statement from the creators indicating a misalignment with the party

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 12:39:06 2020 No.1805157 >>1805154 meant to be a reply to >>1804996

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 12:43:33 2020 No.1805162 Hey guys, what's the go-to firmware these days for upgrading a Wanhao/Maker Select v2.1? Everything I've found has come from 2018.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 13:19:10 2020 No.1805172 >>1805126 I don't know about everyone else but I sleep in the same room as my ender 3, stock everything, and I get used to the droning pretty quickly.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 13:35:37 2020 No.1805181 >>1805119 >Resin is carcinogenic Might want to look up the definitions of things before you say them; resin's toxic to handle, but it's not a carcinogen (at least none of the ones I've seen are).

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 13:37:40 2020 No.1805183 >>1805181 Some resins are actually carcinogenic (may/can cause cancer) dumbass

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 13:39:56 2020 No.1805185 >>1805183 Which ones? Can you provide MSDS links if possible?

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 13:42:37 2020 No.1805186

>>1805185
Just Google epoxy cancer or something
From when I used to do models I knew inhaling the dust was a bad idea for various reasons. Including it being carcinogenic. I don't know exactly what the difference between resins is but the thing that triggered you autism was you assuming I don't know what the word means

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 13:47:47 2020 No.1805191

>>1805186
Ah, so your argument is "solid plastic can give you cancer when powdered, so anything remotely like that can also give you cancer". STFU if you don't know ehat you're talking about (hint: you don't). That's like arguing that injecting yourself with lysol will kill coronavirus. It makes you look like a massive dumbass and scares people off of the hobby.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 13:49:32 2020 No.1805195 >>1805191 At what point did I say I was an expert on resin or plastic? I was asking a question as I had no idea if plastic printers would be safe to be around for long periods when in use. Why are you getting so butthurt over an innocent question?

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 13:51:45 2020 No.1805198 what even determines whether something is carcinogenic or not, the most random stuff is "carcinogenic" and then there's other super toxic stuff that isn't, and there's no rhyme or reason how the fuck does glass powder cause fucking cancer

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 13:52:19 2020 No.1805199 >>1805198 Flip a coin, if heads it causes cancer, if tails it may cause cancer

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 13:53:24 2020 No.1805204 >>1805198 >what even determines whether something is carcinogenic or not, You give a fuck ton of it to mice and if some of them develop cancer it's carcinogenic.

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 14:50:47 2020 No.1805244

>>1805195
I'll admit, I came off a little hostile a couple of post ago; your question was innocent, but your language is dangerous. You didn't say
>Is (sla) resin carcinogenic?
Which flat out states 'I don't know if it is or not', or
>I've heard resin is carcinogenic
Which implies you don't actually know; you said
>I KNOW resin is carcinogenic
IE 'what I'm saying is a fact'! That's a hand grenade of a statement! Doesn't matter if you know it's true or not, but don't blame anyone else if someone tells the thread to duck and take cover.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 14:59:00 2020 No.1805246 >>1805244 But epoxy resin is carcinogenic, instead of acting like a prick you could have told me whatever the resin used in 3D printing is isn't (although I bet it is still harmful to breathe in the fumes)

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 15:03:35 2020 No.1805250 >Get Silk Copper PLA >Prints all lumpy >Get Silk Gold PLA >Prints fine at same settings

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 15:08:46 2020 No.1805254 >>1805246 1. I did (>>1805181, 2nd part of the sentence) 2. It's not, as far as I know (though some of them stink) Go to school ASAP, not only do you not understand grammar, you also don't know how to read.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 15:09:58 2020 No.1805256 >>1805254 You started off by implying I don't know what carcinogenic means. Instead of telling me it isn't carcinogenic

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 15:24:57 2020 No.1805261

>>1805256
>resin's toxic, but it's not a carcinogen
Again, lrn2reed. Also because I had the 2 spare seconds to google it, I looked up if casting resins are actually a carcinogen:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.cdph.ca.gov/Programs/CCDPHP/DEODC/OHB/HESIS/CDPH%2520Document%2520Library/epoxy.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwj4xJb44oHpAhXelXIEHfVRDA4QFjADegQIDhAK&usg=AOvVaw26rHdgP9fchtyTQfBh4r0W

5th page, 1st paragraph. California doesn't seem to think so. Kindly stop propogating old wives tales while you're at it.

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 15:28:58 2020 No.1805264

>>1805261
"Epichlorohydrin, one of the constituents of the epoxy resin monomer (figure 2) is a skin sensitizer. In addition, epichlorohydrin is classified as carcinogenic in the category 1B, ‘presumed human carcinogen’, according to the EU classification"

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 15:36:25 2020 No.1805272 >>1805250 pigment influences printability the chalk in some white can make it a bitch to print

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 15:40:48 2020 No.1805275

I want to have 2 analog outputs on my printer. The outputs would be like an extra axis, say A axis and B axis.
I would have commands like:
G1 X0 Y0
G1 X10 Y0 E0.1 A0.0 B5.0
G1 X10 Y10 E0.1 A5.0 B5.0
For the first move from 0,0 to 10,0 output B would ramp up form 0v to 5v.
For the second move from 10,0 to 10,10 A would ramp up from 0v to 5v too.

Are there similar implementations of marlin out there? I dont want to reinvent the wheel.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 15:42:52 2020 No.1805277 >>1805275 ugh you might be better off doing that as heater (e2 e3) pwm and redefine 2 pwm able pins but no clue really

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 15:44:14 2020 No.1805278 >>1805275 Couldn't you use GPIO pins for that?

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 15:50:41 2020 No.1805284

Im sorry i didnt word my question right.
The outputs would be analog so i can output any values between 0 and 5v.
So a command like:
G1 X10 Y0 E0.1 A0.0 B2.8
would slowly increase/decrease the voltage to 2.8 from the previous state.

>>1805277
Maybe you were thinking of fan instead of heater? I dont think heater outputs are interpolated between moves. Fan however might be interpolated maybe idk
PWM is fine, ill could filter that to get a smooth voltage.

>>1805278
I want analog voltage, not just 0 and 5 volts. My question was not complete, im sorry.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 16:22:10 2020 No.1805303 >>1804677 I usually have PETG a lot hotter, more around 215 to 230 depending on a filament. Can you do a heating tower test?

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 16:23:30 2020 No.1805305

>>1805284
Did some snooping and it looks like you might be able to do it by having a piece of firmware with extra "extruders" in it. Although you'd have to do conversion between what gets spit out and the voltage that it actually represents. Otherwise I don't know, analog GPIO pins and custom gcode generation sounds like more work than is worth it.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 16:36:25 2020 No.1805312 >>1805305 Thanks. Its a huge help to know that it is possible, now i can lurk in the firmware knowing theres a way to do it.

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 16:56:04 2020 No.1805320

what if i added steppers for rotation on the gantry?
this project caught my eye, and as a dev who was laid off due to Corona, I've got some time on my hands...
https://github.com/Zip-o-mat/Slic3r/tree/nonplanar
could we increase the viable angles with a longer nozzle and rotating the actual hotend? seems like that should help introduce some space for a parts cooling fan.
i was thinking of dropping the whole hotend underneath the X axis gantry and adding motors for XZ and YZ rotation

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 17:01:20 2020 No.1805328 >watching 3D printing for beginners >guys says beds are usually warped and you'll never get a perfectly flat bed I guess thats me out I won't be able to cope with it not being flat

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 17:04:04 2020 No.1805330

>>1805328
you can find a "flat enough" area of your bed for most prints, and do them veritically if you're really autistic about it (though that has it's own issues). I use a raft on full-bed prints, which helps.
there's also mesh leveling but it feels like overkill.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 17:14:11 2020 No.1805346 >>1805328 mine was warped, i used a straight edge and blue painters tape to fix it, it took me all of 20 minutes

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 17:20:17 2020 No.1805355 >>1805330 >>1805346 I suppose I could buy a pane of glass to use as a print bed too?

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 17:30:14 2020 No.1805364 >>1805355 glass isnt necessarily flat, and then you still have to figure out adhesion, plus the compensate for the extra height

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 17:31:35 2020 No.1805368 >>1805364 I have to twiddle knobs to set the bed to the right height anyway right? Either way finding out the bed wont be flat and the guy whos video I watched was missing the knob has put me off buying a chinky 3d printer

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 17:46:27 2020 No.1805379

>>1805355
also an option, but i've had my best success with the Creality BuildTak ripoff thing in terms of adhesion and first layer appearance (maybe I had bad leveling, but I did it for both beds myself, so user error should be controlled for) vs the creality glass bed, which has some surface treatment that you'd need to do or apply gluestick/hairspray each time.
Have high hopes for 2x magnetic beds so i can swap them out so one can cool while the other prints
Also, keep in mind that the rollers the bed is on can wear down, get loose, etc and can lead to even a perfectly leveled and flat bed jittering

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 19:05:06 2020 No.1805414 >>1805379 >Have high hopes for 2x magnetic beds so i can swap them out so one can cool while the other prints the print literally just pops off, and its good to go again, i dont have to swap them out or let it cool between prints

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 19:56:14 2020 No.1805462
File: 357 KB, 1493x1080, bridge and overhang.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Ran a bridge & overhang test. Ender 3d, Cura, PLA, 200°, 16s layer time, stock fan at 90% with some simple duct. I dunno what other settings are relevant.

the 30mm bridge has some sagging but looks quite good imo. the overhang is acceptable to around 70°, I usually set overhang support to 72° anyway, so I think I'll leave it there depending on the print.

Anything else I could do to improve this? Should I up the fan max speed to 100%? Increase layer time? go straight to dual 5015?

File from some youtuber who was comparing Bullseye and Hero Me.
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPvLKSClShc

After seeing all the results, I'm not sold on the value of printing these super complex and heavier cooling solutions.

>>1805414
awesome, good to know.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 20:15:54 2020 No.1805475 File: 180 KB, 800x534, 058_louis_seigal_DSC56361.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Sorry if this thread doesn't talk about it, but is there any recommended places for getting parts 3D printed?

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 20:34:08 2020 No.1805484 >>1805475 what part and where at?

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 20:44:33 2020 No.1805492

>>1805484
A replacement for broken bits on my headphones, so would want some printing technique/material more known for strength. Apparently common enough that someone has already made up files for it. https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-beyerdynamic-slider-replacement-repair-kit-54218

>location
California, I do see a lot of people offering this 3D printed part, but all from Russia or China or somewhere else were it's gonna be crazy long shipping. Not that the virus helps any of that.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 21:01:13 2020 No.1805503 >>1805284 You can use a digital potentiometer to control a voltage regulator. They take a variety of digital signals like PWM, I2C, SPI, etc

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 21:35:39 2020 No.1805522 >>1805379 >the creality glass bed, which has some surface treatment that you'd need to do or apply gluestick/hairspray each time. the creality glass bed already has a surface that's supposed to grip prints though

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 21:41:54 2020 No.1805529 5 axis 3D printers when? Abolish supports forever

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 21:44:07 2020 No.1805530

>>1805522
guess my syntax was bad - that's what I meant. the creality bed has some treatment to help with adhesion. if you went with some random sheet of cut glass, you would want to do something similar - glue stick and hairspray are options I've heard of, but they're (probably) per-print and (probably) need to be reapplied frequently.

>>1805529
see >>1805320

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 21:50:00 2020 No.1805535

>>1805530
>see
Oh nice, that looks relevant. Would a rotating nozzle be better than a trunnion heat bed? The former would mean less heavy rotating parts, but it also means some things would print at steep, near-vertical angles. If the bed swivels, the lines will always be deposited onto a horizontal surface.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 21:50:44 2020 No.1805536 >>1805492 Maybe look for you local fablab, no idea if there are those things where you are tho.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 21:53:18 2020 No.1805539 >>1805535 I would think a rotating bed is better, no electronics so all you need is accurate movement

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 21:57:19 2020 No.1805544

>>1805539
>no electronics so all
Not sure what you mean by that
I would favour a swivel bed as well, but it's gonna be HEAVY. You're gonna have your heated plate + heater + potentially extra build surface e.g. glass, that's gonna be on a 360* flat rotating mechanism, and THAT assembly is gonna have to swivel side to side.
Then again the swivelling can probably be relegated to a slow axis driven by a worm gear, which should make it much easier to control accurately.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 22:02:55 2020 No.1805554 >>1805529 if you got the cash, right now four and five axis is a whole new level of complexity, and it takes resources to match

Anonymous Fri Apr 24 22:05:50 2020 No.1805557

>>1805544
you dont need to wire anything other than mb a heated bed. a 5 axis printer with swiveling bed (as opposed to those gaint kuka arms) would sacrifice glass, square corners and weight support in order to function.
do you really expect creature comforts to exist on trying out random things? There's a 4 axis machine that uses a rotating heated dowel as the bed, that might work for some.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 22:14:24 2020 No.1805563 File: 379 KB, 1539x1080, dx12b.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] wip quarantine project (airsoft)

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 22:21:21 2020 No.1805571 >>1805557 https://youtu.be/gdvyT8HoaOw (headphone warning) its in the Diabase Hseries too, but I suspect systems like these are the first feasible upgrades and the 5th axis would also be a removable addition to the bed

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 22:29:18 2020 No.1805575 >>1805571 he're the tool I'm specifically talking about, nonplanar, 4 axis moves on this would make a nice device upgrade. https://youtu.be/IZ82_L6UmzQ?t=536

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 22:37:25 2020 No.1805580 Would this be a good deal if I want to get into SLA printing? monoprice d7 for 180$ new on ebay from the monoprice store, comes with 250ml of resin? It's the no touchscreen model but idk still seems good https://ebay.us/kgmnH3

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 22:44:05 2020 No.1805582 File: 82 KB, 1024x768, hypr.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1805563 wip quarantine project (nerf)

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 22:46:31 2020 No.1805583 >>1805492 >https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-beyerdynamic-slider-replacement-repair-kit-54218 Why don't you message him and ask him to print a set?

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 23:48:49 2020 No.1805610 >>1805462 >Anything else I could do to improve this? I believe shorter layer heights can improve the integrity of steep overhangs somewhat.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 23:53:17 2020 No.1805616 Im about out of hatchbox abs I bought 4 years ago Amazon wont have any hatchbox til May Is Sunlu shit or should I just wait?

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 23:55:45 2020 No.1805620 >>1805616 >using ABS ytho

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 24 23:57:36 2020 No.1805623 >>1805620 I like the smell of acetone and get to smell it frequently when using abs

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 00:07:52 2020 No.1805634 >>1804936 >>1805157 >>1805154 How do you actually adjust it? I see screw holes in the sides but I wouldn't have thought that applying force there would be the way to go. Neat design, though

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 00:12:19 2020 No.1805640 >>1805475 Look into Shapeways if you want more-or-less guaranteed quality and strength, they have stuff like nylon and glass-filled polymers. Will be a bit pricy though

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 00:15:48 2020 No.1805643 >>1805616 >Is Sunlu shit I haven't used any other brands to compare, but I've been printing with Sunlu for months and I've had no problems aside from their black PLA+ being a little fussy about sticking to my glass bed.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 01:05:25 2020 No.1805666 >>1805563 sawed-off airsoft shotgun? could be cool

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 01:29:12 2020 No.1805675 File: 1.15 MB, 3036x4048, IMG_20200425_001801(1).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1803861 What causes this issue? I am printing with PETG at 240, with the heat bed at 75.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 01:31:36 2020 No.1805677 >>1805675 If this is just the first layer, then it's overextrusion/nozzle too close to the bed.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 01:36:25 2020 No.1805682 >>1805675 make sure your petg is dry if you can't get higher than the first few layers. I once had one so bad it would get bubbly mid-way through the print like a nylon.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 01:40:53 2020 No.1805686 >>1805677 This is like the 4-6th layer. >>1805682 Slow down the print speed then?

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 01:47:25 2020 No.1805690 >>1805686 put it in the oven on (VERY)low and let it dry out

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 02:01:16 2020 No.1805694 >>1805643 I'll take your word I'm sure it'll be better than 4 year old filament thats just been out in the open

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 02:10:19 2020 No.1805696 bought a 3d printer and used it once like 6 months ago what should i make with it

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 02:22:18 2020 No.1805701

>>1805696
-aluminum
robot dog/anything

-controller & steppers
automation, camera slider(with aluminum and bearing/rail)
again, anything

-extruder
3d doodler clone

-heated bed/power supply
a heated bed is useful for vacuum forming

-bearing/rail
the leadscrew is useless but the rail and belts can be used with robotics

print the parts then use the printer's remains to make this https://youtu.be/DfBF26DaT-M

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 03:09:38 2020 No.1805725
File: 1.54 MB, 3264x1836, IMG_20200425_030056.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Tried keeping the temp at 215C on the e3d v6, 2.5mm retraction distance, 25mm/s retract speed. Seems like it developed a partial clog earlier then totally jammed past layer 11 (at which point the extruder was just clicking nonstop). Not sure what else to try other than to keep lowering the retraction distance.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 03:18:17 2020 No.1805729 >>1805725 why are you so convinced that it's the retraction?

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 03:23:23 2020 No.1805731 >>1805729 I suspect it's that because the first layer or two go down fine, then the hotend becomes totally jammed later which leads me to believe that some of the hot filament froze further up in the heatbreak. No idea what else it could be.

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 03:43:09 2020 No.1805733

>>1805725
How long have you had the printer? I had a similar issue noticing I would get frequent jams and the gear in the extruder would grind into the filament
I noticed that there was a slight groove worn into the gear which I presume was causing the issue
Since replacing I haven't had the issue

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 03:51:12 2020 No.1805736

>>1805731
funnily enough, not hot enough would cause the exact same symptoms

not enough heat to keep up with the volumetric flow rate until eventually the extruder gear grinds a hole in the filament and it starts slipping

do a double test and increase the heat and disable retraction

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 03:52:31 2020 No.1805738 >>1805580 bumping this

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 03:53:17 2020 No.1805739

>>1805733
Little over a year now but this issue didn't happen before switching to an e3d v6. Guess I'll take a closer look at the extruder gear but it looked okay last time I checked not long ago. You just replaced the gear then or the whole extruder?
>>1805736
May as well try that next. Wanted to keep retractions since combing along the walls seems to make the outer walls of the print uglier.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 03:54:54 2020 No.1805741 >>1805739 I replaced just the gear Well first I moved it up slightly so a normal part of the gear could touch the filament until i got a new one

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 03:56:42 2020 No.1805742

>>1805738
I do want more anime figures, if this covid thing didnt happen I would be continuing to track the price of water soluble material and probably got a nicer printer(300,the "pro" ver of a resin printer) in June.

I'd say no today. I'm waiting til ~September.

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 07:19:25 2020 No.1805801

>>1805503
That was an option too, not sure whats faster. Pumping out I2C/SPI data or setting a PWM output. Im thinking the PWM is faster if its built in. But the external device might have more resolution and easier to hook up to directly produce a voltage. With PWM filters are a must so an OPA is needed.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 08:01:17 2020 No.1805827 >>1805284 Out of curiosity, what is it for? ECM?

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 08:47:27 2020 No.1805843

>>1805364
>>1805355
Glass isnt flat, but a mirror is. It has a glass surface which leaves a nice surface finish.
I use a mirror from ikea when printing, and have no issues with adhesion, mostly print PETG and PLA.
Just be sure to clean the window with some windex or if really bad some soap and water.No need for glue or tape or any other bothersome stuff.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 08:49:17 2020 No.1805846 >>1805843 That mirror isn't going to last long if you directly print PETG on it.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 08:51:40 2020 No.1805849 >>1805846 It is if you coat it with some hairspray. Perfection first layer adhesion even with a strong fan, and easy to remove afterwards.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 08:53:59 2020 No.1805852 >>1805849 >it is if you coat it with some hairspray. He explicitly claimed that you don't anything like that: >No need for glue or tape or any other bothersome stuff.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 08:56:56 2020 No.1805855 >>1805843 I take it the ikea mirror is cheap?

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 08:59:28 2020 No.1805858

>>1805849
>even with a strong fan
why do you print 1st layer with fan at all?
first layer prints slow, obvious has no overhangs and you needlessly locally cool down the building plate

On pla and parts with no big overhangs i print without fan if layertime is ~1min or greater

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 10:51:47 2020 No.1805915

>>1805739
maybe get one of those pointer thermometers so you can check the actual nozzle temp. or maybe the hotend is a different geometry from the original so the nozzle is sitting lower and your parts cooling fan is cooling the nozzle? what layer do you turn fans on at?

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 11:14:53 2020 No.1805924 >>1805915 Not him but I got one of those IR thermometors off of ali. Works reasonably well. Trying it on a bed of ~50c has a result of 46 and works on the bbq and such. However, I can't get it to read the nozzle at all. Always just says ~30 or so.

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 11:34:43 2020 No.1805936

>>1805924
because ir thermometers are shit
they work by optics and do not read pinpoint but cirlces + have a focusing distance and may not read accurate at all on shiny metall

if youre worried about the nozzle getting cooled, get yourself a silicon sock and PID tune the hotend with Fan at 100%

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 11:39:12 2020 No.1805939 >>1805936 Already has a sock on it. My nozzle temps are fine, had the IR therm a bit before I had the printer, was just curious.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 12:06:11 2020 No.1805950 >>1805936 >PID tune the hotend NTAYRT, but what does that mean? I haven't done much tuning or maintenance on the hardware, mostly slicer settings so far, what else should I be doing?

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 12:12:33 2020 No.1805954

>>1805855
Very cheap, I think its these specifically that I got:
https://www.ikea.com/nl/en/p/lots-mirror-39151700/
10 euro for 4 of them.
And they are 100% guaranteed to be flat because otherwise the mirror would distort the image. Of course the glass on top can be slightly deformed, but in my experience they have proven to be more than flat enough for 3D printing. Additional advantage is that you can more easily observe the first layer because of the mirror effect.
>>1805846
It has lasted over 50 prints easily now. I am not sure why you would say it wouldn't last song, if its abbrassive then its false. If you are talking about it sticking well, once the build plate cools down the prints just pop right off, not a lot of force needed. Even when hot usually a sharp flat tool can easily peel the print off without too much force or effort. And if it breaks or whatever, I just throw on a new mirror, they really aren't that expensive yet save a lot of trouble.

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 12:15:03 2020 No.1805955
File: 1.18 MB, 2560x1440, 20200422_095805.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

any suggestions for securing build plate to hotbed? i have a print that needs p much the whole buildplate area and so the old binder clips get knocked off by the print head as it moves the perimeter.
tried electrical tape but the thing's still wobbling around. tempted to try double sided tape or 3m command strips lol

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 12:20:31 2020 No.1805958

>>1805954
>if you are talking about it sticking well, once the build plate cools down the prints just pop right off, not a lot of force needed.
PETG can fuse to the glass so that even after it cooled down you will only get the print off by taking a few chunks of glass with it.
It will happen sooner or later and you could have avoided it just by adding something like hairspray, windex, or gluestick to make it stick less.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 12:22:49 2020 No.1805960 >>1805955 print a clip that goes over the corners, you can probably find one for your printer on thingiverse

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 12:41:11 2020 No.1805964

>>1805958
>PETG can fuse to the glass so that even after it cooled down you will only get the print off by taking a few chunks of glass with it.
So far over 50 prints never had an issue with it. Let's hope it stays this way.
>It will happen sooner or later and you could have avoided it just by adding something like hairspray, windex, or gluestick to make it stick less.
Read my other post. I always clean with windex before printing

And again, a mirror is only 2.50 a piece. not that big of a deal if one breaks. I treat it like a consumable.

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 12:43:01 2020 No.1805966

>>1805955
If you use a glass plate you can put a thermal interface between it and the hotbed. They're just sticky enough to hold everything in place.
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-400mm-Silicone-Thermal-Heatsink/dp/B007PPEW52
This has worked great for me. It has to be cut and it tears real easy, so be very careful working with it. Never tried it with the plastic build plate but it might work.

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 12:44:03 2020 No.1805967

>>1805964
>So far over 50 prints never had an issue with it. Let's hope it stays this way.
It takes one large print to fuck you over
>Read my other post. I always clean with windex before printing
That implies you wipe all the windex off.
If you leave it on the plate then that will work.

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 12:53:44 2020 No.1805970

>>1805967
>It takes one large print to fuck you over
I have done some large prints and havent had issues. And again even if so, if I break a 2.50 plate every 50 prints or so, I do not care about it at all.
I have had more issues with the PETG not sticking enough, than too much.

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 13:13:40 2020 No.1805979

>>1805725
>totally jammed past layer 11 (at which point the extruder was just clicking nonstop
>Not sure what else to try other than to keep lowering the retraction distance.
If your nozzle is completely jamming such that it can't extrude anything, why would altering the retraction difference fix that?
Something's obviously wrong with your nozzle/hot end itself. Maybe the bowden tube got separated from the nozzle inside the print head and you've got plastic bunching up in there or something.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 13:20:31 2020 No.1805981 >>1805960 Wouldn't a printed bed clip get fucked up and sag/lose strength as the bed it's attached to heats up?

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 13:26:17 2020 No.1805984 >>1805955 3m 468

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 13:57:38 2020 No.1806006

>>1805731
that doesn't sound like the only possible thing to tune.
>E steps
>extruder too weak to push thru nozzle
>poorly tuned print speed/flow rate
>shitty nozzle (are you positive about its diameter?)
>shitty parts cooling fan duct positioning
>heat creep/poor hotend cooling
>printing temp vs initial print temp
>improper hotend PID tuning
>RMA and replacement on the hotend
what about other filaments?
use Cura's ChangeAtZ post processing to test some settings if you're so convinced it's retraction. start at 0 and up it a bit every 5ish layers and see when it jams.
keep in mind just how complex these machines actually are from software to hardware.

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 14:38:53 2020 No.1806049

>>1805725
>Seems like it developed a partial clog earlier then totally jammed past layer 11
what causes jams in the hotend?
>damp or shitty filament that wont melt
>not enough heat
>printing faster than your hot end can melt the filament
>bad hot end
>bad power supply

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 14:43:26 2020 No.1806055

>>1805979
NTAYRT but I noticed with too high of a retraction distance I was getting eventual jamming with no other causes. What I think might be happening is the filament heats up the heatsink faster than it can be cooled by the fan to the point it's warm enough that filament higher up gets gooey and stops extruding properly/at all.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 15:04:46 2020 No.1806065 >>1805827 LASERS Whats an ECM?

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 15:05:58 2020 No.1806067 >>1806065 Electrochemical Machining, i.e. mill metal with electrolysis.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 15:09:24 2020 No.1806069 >>1806067 Interesting.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 15:11:13 2020 No.1806072 >>1806069 The Reprap wiki has an article on it: https://reprap.org/wiki/Electrochemical_Machining

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 15:13:40 2020 No.1806074 >>1806072 I had ideas to do pcb etching like that, EDM-ing a pcb sounds easier tho. So many ideas.. so little time.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 17:14:45 2020 No.1806123 Why is my print fine but the top layer and support stringing like a fucking violinist? Ender 3 and PLA.

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 17:33:15 2020 No.1806129

>>1806055
like, you were retracting the molten tip all the way back into the Bowden tube? yeah that's pretty aggressive
but the rest of your paragraph describes a heat creep issue, where your hotend isnt cooled enough or your parts cooler fan is pointing too high on your nozzle

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 17:35:32 2020 No.1806132 >>1806123 who cares about support stringing? show pic of top layer and relevant slicer profile settings, check simplify3d's troubleshooting guide (which should be in the OP/pastebin?).

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 17:39:21 2020 No.1806136

>>1806129
No, I have a direct drive all-metal hotend. I had to adjust the retraction settings to I think 5mm or so to print Bronzefill properly and forgot to change it back when printing PLA - Bronzefill worked great but PLA jammed every time after ~20 minutes or so.

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 17:39:39 2020 No.1806137

>>1803861
>>1803861
how are the OP pics chosen? some look good (bottom row), some look like shit (top left, middle row), some I honestly can't tell (top mid & right). is it just to display the full range of quality you can get out of 3d printing?
OP, I must know. is it an alignment chart? political compass? divulge your secrets to me!

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 17:43:39 2020 No.1806143 >>1806136 >5mm ddrive all metall jesus christ if you need more than 1mm on ddrive you have other issues

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 17:48:04 2020 No.1806146 >>1806137 its just whatever the fuck we posted in the last bread, pasted into the template

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 18:07:22 2020 No.1806154

>>1806143
It was stringing/oozing like mad and I knew it wasn't a fresh roll, it was the only thing that helped. It's much more thermally conductive than regular PLA so I don't doubt that had something to do with it. I don't remember the actual amount of retraction I put and I didn't save the settings, but it was a lot more than I'd do for other filaments regardless.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 18:13:57 2020 No.1806157 I have a blue tronxy probe on my anet a6, are there M or G commands I can use to test that its working? When I G28 it just acts like theres no z- endstop

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 19:14:36 2020 No.1806186

>>1806006
Well I recalibrated the e-steps again, ended up having to lower it by about 5%. PID tuned the hotend again, not much change in those values. The speed is at 50mm/s max for support & inner walls, 25mm/s top/bottom layers & 30mm/s outer wall. Flow rate set to 100%. Parts cooling blower is lower than the heat block of the v6, so it's not blowing directly onto it. As for the hotend cooling it has an nf-a4x10-flx attached via a fan duct so all of its air is going over the heatsink (about 5 cfm like is recommended by e3d).
>>1806049
Been trying with prusament that's been kept in a drybox with about a kilo of desiccant in it. Maybe it needs more heat but on the stock i3 mega hotend I didn't need more than 205C for it to print fine. I should hope that it's not just the e3d v6 being fucked to be honest.
I've started another print with 215C initial layer & 220C for the rest, and no retractions. Guess I'll see how that goes.

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 19:27:17 2020 No.1806188

>>1806186
>no retraction
im guessing itll be stringy as fuck
did your original hot end die?
is this e3d v6 the change that fucked everything up? did you read up before you bought it? theres no honest reviews that dont mention it jamming all the fucking time
what happens if you go back to the original hot end?

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 19:37:15 2020 No.1806191 [DELETED]

>>1806188
Yea I'm likely not going to let the whole thing print, just get to the same point where it jammed last time. Then I'll try another print at 220C with retractions & see how that does. The stock hot end would just get a partial clog every so often which I got fed up with. At very least after clearing a clog on the old hotend it'd at least be able to print for a few dozen hours without issue.

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 19:38:18 2020 No.1806192

>>1806188
Yea I'm likely not going to let the whole thing print, just get to the same point where it jammed last time. Then I'll try another print at 220C with retractions & see how that does. The stock hot end would just get a partial clog every so often which I got fed up with. At very least after clearing a clog on the old hotend it'd be able to print for a few dozen hours without issue.

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 20:46:31 2020 No.1806220

>>1806192
So after getting around to the part where it jammed last time the thing still underextrudes even with no retractions at 220C. After stopping the print and pushing filament through manually at first there was a lot of resistance which then gave way and it could flow normally again. Honestly real close to just giving up on this thing and throwing shekels at josef.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 20:52:18 2020 No.1806221 >>1806220 that sounds extremely frustrating, you've been trying to troubleshoot this for a while. geared extruder maybe, new hob...at this point it sounds like time to RMA honestly

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 21:29:35 2020 No.1806235 >>1803926 That's underextrusion and poor leveling

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 21:47:09 2020 No.1806238 File: 3.13 MB, 4032x3024, 20200425_212723[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1805582 Done

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 22:22:10 2020 No.1806253

>>1806186
I'm gonna assume it's a genuine e3d v6, and not a chink j-head clone. It may be worth taking it off and trying to inspect the inside.
last thing I can think of is your ptfe tube. Is it your original tube? If so, take it out of the couplings, and inspect it. If it's munted as fuck, replace it. You could possibly try using capricorn tubing, but since it's not going into the hot end it may not make as much of a difference. If you're swapping back to the original hot end maybe it'd be more worth it then.
Good luck loli.

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 22:30:53 2020 No.1806259

>>1806253
Yea it's genuine. I'll see if I can RMA the thing, if not I have a new nozzle coming in the mail hopefully soon. The tubing I'm using is capricorn actually, pretty new so it's not fucked or anything. If a new nozzle doesn't change its behavior I'll try getting a fresh stock hotend or two before going to josef.

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 22:34:07 2020 No.1806261
File: 6 KB, 441x375, EdgeSize.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

If I want to have two parts fit together as well as possible with little to no friction, what's the offset I should make for either part? At it's simplest - let's say I want to put a printed cube through a hollow printed square. If I make the outer edge of the cube 3cm and the inner edge of the hole 3cm, it won't fit because there's no way I can get that close with printers. What should I adjust the length of the cube sides to be, if I want minimum wiggle/slop in it? I know it depends on how accurate my printer is, but I'm asking as a general rule, assuming I'm perfectly tuned.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 22:39:00 2020 No.1806264 >>1806261 You go 3CM on both and file/sand until it does what you want.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 22:44:38 2020 No.1806268 >>1806264 The part I want to make is way too complicated for me to sand and hope it fits.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 22:46:19 2020 No.1806269 >>1806259 Doesn't Josef use the e3d v6 anyway? Although direct drive would be an upgrade over bowden. Flexible dactyl when?

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 25 22:47:38 2020 No.1806270 >>1806269 It has some changes to it (besides being direct drive) last I checked. >Flexible dactyl when? Just put the PLA case in a hot car in the summer :^)

Anonymous Sat Apr 25 23:12:47 2020 No.1806284

>>1806261
Most of the time I make a gap between parts of 0.1mm for a tight fit (requiring force to insert), and 0.2mm for a normal or loose fit. This is usually sufficient for the normal irregularities due to layers, rounded edges, ringing effects, occasional small blobs, slowing down on corners, etc... For small gaps, I take larger tolerances, based on experience, or after trial and error.

>>	Sieg Sun Apr 26 02:10:20 2020 No.1806366 >>1804569 Faggot,any nigger with a plastic injection machine could have done 100x times more face shileds than him and any of his printers.

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 26 02:12:19 2020 No.1806367 >>1806366 Poor quality Siegpost.

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 26 02:31:31 2020 No.1806377 >>1806366 >>1806366 Didn't a youtuber actually make an injection mold machine for the shields?

Anonymous Sun Apr 26 05:47:02 2020 No.1806446
File: 102 KB, 1280x720, maxresdefault-2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

how do you draw helical gears from a physical example? I have a broken gear that I need to draw. I'm using Fusion 360 with some plugin. I count it's teeth number, diameter (with teeth length) and teeth angle. then, I adjust module until I get the correct diameter or something close to it (for some reason m=diameter/number of teeth doesn't give me the correct module). Thing is, it all looks fine, but when I compare the 3d printed to the real one, teeth on the 3d printed gear are smaller and don't fit.
I've been fucking around with this for hours, please help

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 26 06:00:05 2020 No.1806448 >>1806366 Not with the amount of iterations they've done. By the time you get decent tooling for the first model they've already gone through two revisions and your million-dollar investment is already so much scrap metal.

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 26 07:11:28 2020 No.1806464 >>1806448 That is where you combine the strengths and weaknesses of both technologies. Use 3D printing for quick and cheap prototyping, and proceed to injection mold for low cost mass production.

Anonymous Sun Apr 26 07:45:22 2020 No.1806469
File: 9 KB, 342x342, 41cPzNNFy8L._SX342_QL70_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1806259
>>1806220
i had similar problems a few weeks ago. tried everything you did, basically in the same order.
i finally tacked it down to failing bowden tube holder (pic related).
when it starts to fail, the tube raises up slightly during retraction, which open a small gap in your hotend. plastic then floods it, solidifies and you get a jam. if its all metal hotend, this problem is even worse (mine is all-metal).

Anonymous Sun Apr 26 07:52:04 2020 No.1806476

>>1806469
That's actually a fair point, if he's using the original chink couplings they're likely fucked. After 2 months my bowden tube came out on the extruder motor side, and then I unscrewed and picked up the coupling the small teeth that were inside fell out like someone shattered them. Bought some genuine capricorns for if anymore fail as I had spares, but that was quite confronting.

Anonymous Sun Apr 26 07:53:34 2020 No.1806477

>>1806446
> m=diameter/number of teeth
this works when you use pitch diameter, not outside diameter.
you can approximate pitch diameter:
>Dp ~= Doutsde - m
you can guess the module be measuring teeth thickness, or teeth height:
>Htooth ~=2.25*m
be aware that some manufacturers like to fuck around with standard pressure angle and standard modules (using a module of 2.158 or some shit).
more info here:
>google khkgears basic_gear_terminology_calculation

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 26 08:40:56 2020 No.1806502 File: 2.40 MB, 4032x3024, image0.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Slowly but surely I'll print each part to the hevo If I do one part a day by the time everything is here from china i'll have plenty of each as replacement parts

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 26 09:16:11 2020 No.1806515 Just ordered my first 3d printer, an Ender 3 Pro because /diy/ commanded it. No idea what I'll make though.. Except for a few enclosures I could use right now.

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 26 09:21:35 2020 No.1806517 So are custom printers even worth the effort if you're only after gud prints? Voron, hypercube, dbot etc.

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 26 09:26:37 2020 No.1806520 >>1806517 I kind of want to build a blv cube just to mod it for the 3 z axis bed stabilisation. They're more of a money saving thing in all honesty though, unless you want to do something exceedingly weird.

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 26 11:17:38 2020 No.1806564 New Thread >>1806563

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 26 14:14:04 2020 No.1806662 File: 150 KB, 589x760, 1560099136961.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1806366 More like siethe lmao

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 26 14:29:20 2020 No.1806678 File: 84 KB, 1024x844, capricorn-and-collet_1024x1024.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1806469 It's just using the stock v6 bowden tube holder. I guess I could try printing one of those thicker clips to put more pressure on the capricorn.

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 26 16:50:27 2020 No.1806791 >>1806678 yeh when I moved co capricorn I had to use a power supply post fork as a clip in order to print. Broke the sharkbite holder molded into the extruder side and had to reverse the stepper. I would say its required to get one of those clips.

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 26 20:38:05 2020 No.1806895 File: 2.32 MB, 2610x4640, IMG_20200426_194447.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] I've got a present for ya.

>>	Anonymous Mon Apr 27 17:29:24 2020 No.1807559 File: 65 KB, 576x768, ender 3 fail.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>	Anonymous Mon Apr 27 17:30:32 2020 No.1807561 File: 1.80 MB, 2244x1724, ender 3 mods.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>	Anonymous Mon Apr 27 17:31:36 2020 No.1807562 File: 2.95 MB, 608x1078, ender 3 dead.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Anonymous Tue Apr 28 19:08:45 2020 No.1808306

Just put together a Prusa i3 (or knockoff Prusa i3) that I ordered from aliexpress three years ago for $105 and had sitting in a box until now.

I tend to have issues with PLA where it ends up sticking to the printer head while printing, which drags around the object overall. Is my layer height just too small overall?

Current settings are:
Layer Height .17mm
Print Speed: 30
Filament: PLA 1.75mm
Flow: 100%
Print Temp: 220c
Bed temp: 50c

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