/EMT/ Eternal Machinist Thread

[Anonymous No.1780829]

shitty PCB mill edition

Thread hymn.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGNiXGX2nLU

Last thread: >>1774161

>Haas automation videos.
https://www.youtube.com/user/haasautomation/playlists
>Titans of CNC
https://www.youtube.com/user/titanamericanbuilt/playlists

[Anonymous No.1780835]

>>1780793
I used the 15 degree included angle, 10 thou tip width single point tools from these guys: https://www.2linc.com/engraving_tools_micro_profiler.htm

[Anonymous No.1780838]

>>1780835
mmmk

I don't know shit about engraving other than 1/2 90 degree milldrill and take two depths of cut on deep engraving for better surface finish.

[Anonymous No.1780840]

>>1780835
>>1780838
>>1780793
Micro 100 single flute 60 degree engraving bits are pretty good for fine engraving.

[Anonymous No.1780857]

http://www.harveytool.com/prod/Engraving-Cutters/Specialty-Profiles/Browse-Our-Products_195/Engraving-Cutters---Pointed---Pyramid-Point_334.aspx

http://www.harveytool.com/prod/Browse-Our-Products/Mold-Tool---Die-Solutions_269/Miniature-End-Mills---Tapered-Rib-Cutters---Square_77.aspx

mostly use the pyramid 3flt engravers, they seem to keep better than single flute, and if you are ginding up your own, the 3 flts are even easier because you dont need to grind cutting clearance on them i use both these bits to engrave shitty 2mm date codes

[Anonymous No.1780858]

are quick change tool posts not accurate enough to take a threading tool off and put it back on and be able to pick up your thread again? I swapped my threading tool out to chamfter the end of my threads some more, but then when I put the threading tool back on to clean up the threads it started cross threading my shit. I kept the tools in their own holders and didn't move the compound or touch the dro and used the same number on the half nut.

>>1780835
damn that's a sharp angle. how deep are those lines?

>>1780840
my problem with 60 degrees was that if you went deeper than a couple thousands the lines would blow up in width

[Anonymous No.1780860]

>>1780858
That 0.004" tip width tho, I think you can get sharper angles.

Harvey makes good ones too.

[Anonymous No.1780958]

So after having a sleep i woke up angry but determined.
No pizza, no movies, no nothing for the rest of this month, i just ordered a crapload of endmills instead and i will fucking make that fucking carabiner if it's the last fucking thing i do before corona coating on those endmills ends me

[Anonymous No.1780960]

>>1780958
You need exactly 1 endmill, a 2-flute 3mm one, and then you need to learn your damn speeds and feeds. Save yourself some pizza money and cancel the 4-flute and 3-flute orders.

[Anonymous No.1780964]

>>1780960
I want variety so i can test the differences different flute counts and diameters make on my machine.
Also don't you fucking think i looked up the speeds and feeds already? All guides are fucking useless to me, they are for normal CNC machines, not for small routers used as cncs.
Every speed and feed calculator i tried gives me unusable results, like lowering RPM too much which i can't do because i will lose torque, or increasing feedrate to match the RPM which i also cannot do because my machine can't move that fast, or increasing the dept of cut.. also for shit, i can't because the steppers will just miss steps or get flat out stuck in the stock, i can barely handle 0.3mm DOC, so when the new endmills arrive i will try 0.2mm DOC, at 200mm/min and 12k RPM (rpms are fixed and i cannot change them too much or i will lose torque)
Basically, advice from experienced machinists are useless for my case because none of them have experiences with ghetto machining, which is a completely separate planet from commercial man sized machine CNC machining

[Anonymous No.1780969]

>>1780964
There's no "variety for testing", a 3 and 4 flute endmill will be worse, invariably, it's completely pointless to buy them. Obviously you completely fucked up when trying to get speeds and feeds calculated because of the terrible results you're getting. Here's the super-retard-version of setting up your machine:
More flutes = MORE FEED, more torque
Bigger endmill = LESS RPM, more torque, with some exceptions at very small sizes
Higher RPM = HIGHER FEED
Bigger endmill = HIGHER FEED, and conversely,
smaller endmill = LOWER FEED
HSS endmill = LESS RPM and LESS FEED, carbide endmill = MORE RPM and MORE FEED
High feed loads the steppers too much = DECREASE DOC
High feed loads the spindle too much = DECREASE ENDMILL SIZE
>>THEREFORE
use SMALLER ENDMILL with HIGH FEEDRATE =RELATIVE= TO THE ENDMILL SIZE with LOW DOC, you can't just take your calculated feed for a 4mm endmill and swap it for a 2mm and see what happens, this is why you kept breaking shit. When people tell you that your feed is too low, it's all relative to the endmill size. Every 1 flute multiplies the feed you should be running, so for you the ideal would be a 1-flute, but a 2-flute would probably still work.
You can't change your RPM? Change the size of the endmill. When the endmill is changed, the feed is changed. Steppers can't take the feed? Reduce DoC. Doesn't matter if you're only doing 0.05mm per pass, you MUST keep the feed right.
And last and least, with a 2-flute 3mm carbide endmill in aluminium at 14k RPM you want about 350mm/min FOR SLOTTING, if you're not slotting, you need less engagement and more feed. The 2mm 2-flute carbide endmill would be around 150mm/min, the 4mm 2-flute carbide at 1300mm/min. There's an android app called FSWizard, you can use it to calculate shit for yourself.
If it still doesn't work, either you're beyond retarded or your machine just can't do aluminium.

[Anonymous No.1780972]

>>1780969
that seems like some actually useful info, thanks fren
i actually also ordered one 1 flute mill to test since they are for some reason more expensive than the 2 flute ones probably due to low demand

[Anonymous No.1780978]

>>1780969
so i tried to download the calculator and fill out the parameters for the one end mill i have left, to the best of my limited knowledge and it is telling me that for a 2mm dia 3 flute non coated carbide flat end mill and 0.2mm DOC, 12k RPM i need the feedrate to be 876mm/min for alu, does that seem correct?
but it seems like my best bet is to basically use 1mm dia, 2 flute mills because that way i can go really slow at 270mm/min which my machine could actually handle no problem at 0.2mm DOC

[Anonymous No.1780989]

>>1780978
fuck.. this is all i have left, and i am kind of scared of trying it, because if i snap my last 1mm, it's game over until the new batch i ordered arrives in two months, since according to the calculator with the 3mm mill i would have to feed at 1100mm/min which would mean a DOC so incredibly low i would basically have to use probe leveling like i do for PCBs
And i doubt those 0.5mm dia mills could handle alu at all so those are probably out of the question

[Anonymous No.1781008]

>>1780978
>>1780989
Are these even actual metal-cutting endmills or pcb endmills? Do they have the same geometry as the ones you're ordering?
That aside, I wouldn't recommend trying with the 1mm bit, the machine probably doesn't have such tight tolerances that it could run without breaking it.
I'm getting 690mm/min feed for those settings at 2mm, make sure you have slotting checked.
>shallow DOC
You're making repeated passes either way, it doesn't matter that some cuts will have partial engagement because the surface isn't perfectly leveled. What's important is to fix the aluminium to the base well, so that it doesn't freely flex, because flexing could cause your DoC to jump from 0.05 to 0.2 and then fuck up the job. Especially likely to happen in the last few layers.

[Anonymous No.1781057]

>>1781008
everything except the left ones are regular 3 flute end mills for metal works

>machine probably doesn't have such tight tolerances that it could run without breaking it.
the motor runout is 0.02mm and the axis runout won't be much more than that so i would say like 0.03mm tops

[Anonymous No.1781064]

>>1780964
>Also don't you fucking think i looked up the speeds and feeds already? All guides are fucking useless to me, they are for normal CNC machines, not for small routers used as cncs.

Did you not see the provencut recipes I posted in the last thread?

[Anonymous No.1781122]

>>1781057
>everything except the left ones are regular 3 flute end mills for metal works
Not for 2 fucking dollars they aren't. Stop buying chink shit for tools and they won't break.

[Anonymous No.1781156]

am I stupid for using the two eye bolts on the top of the phaseperfect box to hang it up with--instead of the brackets on the back that you are supposed to screw to a wall?

I figured the eye bolts were plenty hefty enough to hold it in place, and if the wire doesn't get bumped it won't want to swing around.

But if I do need to swing it up or something it will be easier.

>tfw no forklift yet

[Anonymous No.1781161]

>all the dtis at work are fucked
>boss won't pay to have them fixed, decides to buy chinese
>on a whim, I open one up, blow into it, and put it back together.
>it works now

Nintendo has trained me well.

[Anonymous No.1781233]

I knew it, now we will need more memory on lathe controls to use the new "adaptive" toolpaths.

https://www.mmsonline.com/blog/post/modulated-cnc-turning-how-a-reversal-in-the-tool-path-can-deliver-greater-cutting-speed

[Anonymous No.1781256]

>>1781122
Those chink carbide endmills, the black ones, are perfectly good, they're only cheap because of the small size. The colorful TiN and other coatings are usually the crappier stuff, HSS with paint. A 6mm one is around $6, I recently bought a 12mm one for $12, there's nothing terribly wrong with them. Anon was only breaking them because he's a baka.

[Anonymous No.1781300]

I got an ingenius idea how to save my endmills that got covered by the nasty melted aluminium frosting.
I have FECL3 here which i use to etch copper for pcbs, it basically melts it like butter and i think it should be reactive with aluminium too, so it will definitely melt the aluminium off but i wonder if it will also melt the carbide which would make it subideal

[Anonymous No.1781313]

This is a good thread to ask, navyfag here, I was turning in calibration equipment yesterday, and one of the electricians handed me what looked like a mechanical surface profile gage, but the movement was lateral, not up/down, and read in grams.
I looked all over MCMS for previously deleted equipment(since it wasn't on our list) and no one had ever used it. Any idea what it could have been? Either way I'm sure it was a machinist tool that ended up under the electrician workcenter somehow. At first I confused it for a surface profile gage or something similar for use on the motor generators

[Anonymous No.1781395]

test

[Anonymous No.1781396]

>>1781313
probably spring pressure or contactor stiffness or something

also captcha is fucked for some reason

[Anonymous No.1781466]

>>1781300
most people use lye because it only dissolves aluminium. me personally i just tap it out with a tiny pick. now for a real challenge/improvement to stop breaking endmills , hook up your spindle IO to your control board. that should be childs play for the one man foxconn. the hardest part for you will be not making excuses why you "cant".

[Anonymous No.1781687]

>>1781466
>hook up your spindle IO to your control board
it already is hooked up

also i don't have lye but i have fecl3 that is why i'm asking if it melts carbide since in that case it would be pointless

[Anonymous No.1781696]

already wish fusion lathe cam wasn't so terrible

[Anonymous No.1781715]

In the process of figuring out why my cnc mill trips the breaker and doesnt move. I had a brilliant idea and asked DMG if they have drawings for a 40+ years old mill. "Sure we do, we can send you drawings for the equivalent of 1500$"

I guess ill grab pen and paper with a multimeter then.

[Anonymous No.1781720]

>>1781715
I forgot to tell the unspeakable horrors in this machine.
Chips in terminal blocks, there were instances of chips tightened in the terminal block with wiring.
3 phase wires hanging loose, not terminated.
Non-used contactor terminals used as terminal blocks.
Wires labelled with different numbers on the ends.
Oh, theres a loose end of a wire, lets see where it goes. Oh the other end is loose as well.

This is just after 1 hours of sitting next to the electrical cabinet.

[Anonymous No.1781732]

>>1781715
I love stuff like this. I manage a large fabrication shop and maintenance department. 22 production and tooling cnc mills and lathes. Does the breaker trip when the main power is turned on when your homing, power button on HMI panel pressed? When does it trip?

[Anonymous No.1781803]

>>1781732
See here: >>1777631
tldr: 3phase was mixed up, now the breaker trips every other time i turn the main switch. Only the controller is powered the rest of the machine is off.

My hunch is that the controller gets an error signal and prevents the rest of the system starting up, or a contactor is fucked or disconnected.
The controller is some 20years old, with logic ic-s and perhaps a Z80 or similar cpu.

[Anonymous No.1781810]

did you try jiggling the the cables?

[Anonymous No.1781814]

>>1781715
HOLY FUCKIN SHIT

I mean uh, my cabinet has the covers over all the wires I hope.

[Anonymous No.1781817]

>>1781814
phew

[Anonymous No.1781818]

>>1781814
>>1781817
oh and based mori seiki put in an extra electrical cabinet for just the non-functional sub-spindle

[Anonymous No.1781854]

>>1781810
Im not an expert at cable jiggling, but ill try when i get the chance. Whats your recommendation? Grab the chassis while i jiggle the cable when the machine is running? Or go full ham and jiggle with both hands?

>>1781814
They were in place when i started.
>>1781817
That looks slightly better, and slightly not old as fuck.

Im thinking just ripping everything off except the servo, encoder and endstop cables so i can use a modern cnc controller.
Any recommendations?

[Anonymous No.1781865]

gibs me some tips on how to do solder masking without the expensive equipment

[Anonymous No.1781866]

>>1781865
I've never done it, but there's a million results on Google on how to /diy/ it, might wanna start there.

[Anonymous No.1781868]

>>1781865
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrxlQ2l_AHM

[Anonymous No.1781891]

>>1781803
The controller is not that old in relation to think i have worked on. If you trace the wires from the controller to each axis motor you can unplug them all and plug them in one by one till you trip the breaker. Are you able to access the PLC programm?

[Anonymous No.1781897]

>>1781854
If you plan to upgrade the CNC controller you may need to update the encoders to match the signal of the CNC controller if it can not be adjusted in the PLC. Updating the CNC softwear can come close to the cost of a new machine. That decision would come down to your expected ROI and capitol return.

[Anonymous No.1781930]

>>1781897
The encoders are sort of new so that shouldn't be a problem. The servo drives are connected to directly the controller with only 2 wires (ground and data im guessing) i just need to figure out what sort of signal it receives. The rest of the signals are just enables for power. The spindle is easy to sort out i have some unused VFDs.
>ROI
this is DIY, i dont expect any returns

>>1781891
Theres no plc in this thing. The main things are the previously mentioned old controller, the servos with the drives, and the big mess of wires/contactors.

[Anonymous No.1782201]

>need a can of WD40 for some aluminium milling
>all stores are closed for the next 10 days due to corona virus

FUCK

[Anonymous No.1782218]

okay i am ready for another try
it has to work now! i used a calculator and everything

[Anonymous No.1782277]

>order cheapo ER32 collet set from Chang
>shit arrives
>it's nothing amazing but I wasn't expecting anything amazing, either
>but I have 2x 20mm collets and no 8mm collet in the set
>complain to Chang
>after a good bit of back and forth get a partial refund of $3.50, which is one collet's price
>paypal jews me for $.50 from that
>order an 8mm collet from another ching chong
>arrives today
>it's 18mm

[Anonymous No.1782315]

>>1782277
i would have imagined you would have learned your lesson by now

china ain't worth the trouble

[Anonymous No.1782319]

>>1782315
A single quality collet would've cost more than the entire set.

[Anonymous No.1782336]

>>1782319
but it doesn't give you coronavirus

[Anonymous No.1782341]

>>1782336
>chinks give you free giftie with every order
>somehow that's bad

[Anonymous No.1782365]

Is this a good first CNC mill? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P6K9BL3?tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1 I'm new to machining and I mainly want to work on things like brass and aluminum.

[Anonymous No.1782375]

>>1782365
>Plastic Acrylic PCB PVC Wood Carving Milling Engraving Machine
Just like the name says, this is at most suited for plastic and wood, but very destitute-tier even for that. That said, it's not impossible to mill alu and brass even on this disaster of a CNC, it's just that you're not gonna have a good time. Well, you're never gonna have a good time with any kind of CNC, but especially not with these. Take a look at what chinks are selling, though I doubt there's gonna be anything significantly better at that price point.
Also save this post so you don't come here asking why your shitCNC is breaking endmills and gluing up with aluminium >>1780969

[Anonymous No.1782376]

>>1781715
update:
In the olden days machines needed batteries to keep parameters. This machine had a switch, so when you were done with your shift, you flipped it to top off the battery at night.

With the retrofit that had an eeprom for the parameters, this switch lost its function. Some genius had the brilliant idea to use this switch to enable the controller signals to the machine.
Now that i figured out this fuckery, the controller is sort of controlling the machine. But only when i keep pressing the enable (whatever the button is called to clear the e-stop) button that should be pressed once. Spindle and oil pump is working. Servos are not moving but the controller is sending motion signals because the display position changes. If i move too much the controller gives servo error and stops, maybe because no response from the servo amp.

Im guessing some contactor is not latching to keep stuff enabled.

If there are encoders on the servos, backlash is compensated in software?

[Anonymous No.1782377]

>>1782375
Will troubleshooting it at least bring me valuable knowledge, or should I just spend an extra hundred on another?

[Anonymous No.1782380]

>>1782377
You're going to be troubleshooting every kind of CNC for a very long time. I haven't personally used one of these super duper low-end CNCs, but my guess is that you're going to run into a speed issue very quickly. The "spindle" motor on it is really small, and it's completely impossible and a waste of money to upgrade to a half-decent cheapo spindle later on since the machine has such a small size. Either way, the spindle is small and needs a very high RPM to deliver any power whatsoever, so if you follow that post I linked, it means that you will need to use a very small endmill. With a very small endmill, jobs will take extremely long, and with these cheapo (here I mean everything under $10k) CNCs you absolutely have to babysit it, it's not like a 3D printer that you can just leave running to do its own thing. Basically this machine is good for exactly what the preview pictures show, small engravings in wood and plastic.
The next tier above is still going to be total ass, but with ballscrews and a cheap 500W-ish spindle you'll be able to use 4-6mm endmills and a decent depth of cut so you will be able to get parts done fairly quickly. These CNCs probably cost around $500-$800 direct from China. You could also build one yourself if you have some bare minimum tools or know someone with tools, then the cost would be reduced to around $300, but it's not at all easy to be designing a CNC around your limitations without knowing what you actually need in a CNC. There are some existing designs like the MPCNC which actually machine aluminium pretty well, if you have access to a 3D printer that could be an option.
Also you will probably end up wanting to buy a compressor if you don't already have one, take that into account.

[Anonymous No.1782386]

>>1782380
Thanks for the info, I think I'll try and build one, considering I have a bunch of handtools in my basement and know how to use them. I'll post the monstrocity here when I finnish building it.

[Anonymous No.1782395]

>>1782386
Wholeheartedly recommend you to buy a cheap drill press, I've build mine without even that and it would've saved me a lot of trouble. Even a sub-$100 one will go a very long way. Also some starting points for your chink shopping:
>SBR12 linear rails, cheapest supported rails, fairly good quality and easy to work with, adjustable give
>if you only need very short travel, <250mm, you can just use unsupported steel rods, even buy them locally for super cheap, but I still recommend these SBR12UU bearing blocks because of the adjustable give
>SFU1204 ballscrew, custom end machining is fairly cheap, you can fit it to some kind of custom bearing housing (I recommend to at least 3D print bearing housings, buying them from china is rather expensive and any other nigger rigging will be very subpar quality)
>if you want to save money, using GT2 or HTD 3M belts is still better than using trapezoid screws, but it's not worth the $50 it saves you
>Arduino CNC shield can control motors and spindle and all you need, downside is being limited to DRV8825 drivers, 2A output at most, but that's still enough if you have ballscrews
>small NEMA23 steppers are cheap, <$20, medium NEMA17 are even cheaper <$10
>China has recently started selling actual servo NEMA17 and NEMA23 at $18 and $40, respectively, with integrated drivers, which is an absolutely amazing deal, but you might not necessarily need that now and it will be an extra layer of complication

[Anonymous No.1782403]

>>1782395
Do you think I should make the spindle motor move on both the Z and Y axis like on the cheaper ones, or make the part move on both the x and y axis like on Professional machines?

[Anonymous No.1782421]

>>1782376
>In the olden days machines needed batteries to keep parameters.
They still do for some god forsaken reason.

[Anonymous No.1782437]

>>1782421
Fanuc lyfe bro

[Anonymous No.1782452]

Is there a chart somewhere on nominal snap ring groove sizes?

[Anonymous No.1782486]

>>1782365
no, I have something like that and take it from me it's hot garbage. Very poor build quality, shoddy engineering, garbage electronics, and a pirated copy of mach3. I'm rebuilding mine right now and basically swapping everything but the aluminum plates for better stuff.

you want https://www.ebay.com/itm/Taig-gecko-cnc-mill-milling-machine-engraver-router/151666655360?hash=item2350098080:g:vSEAAOxyhM1R4r-F . I'm not affiliated with him or taig in any way... (con't)

[Anonymous No.1782488]

>>1782486

(con't)
but I have a buddy who has one of these and it's the tits. He's made stainless steel parts with it before, it really punches above its weight, and deepgroove1 does a good job with a turnkey setup you don't have to fuck with. You don't want anything less than this, at all, ever, for any reason.

[Anonymous No.1782509]

>>1782437
HAAS and Siemens do it too still or at least as of like 5 years ago.

[Anonymous No.1782543]

>>1782380
27w spindle, 4.75mm endmill 4000 rpm, 400mm/m 3.5mm depth , 20% stepover

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3qw7c-UAYQg&t=

[Anonymous No.1782564]

>>1782543
should do some engraving with it or something

[Anonymous No.1782603]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5xn2aoXqa8

look at this insert going right up to that flat face and trapping chips between face and insert

one day they will add special setting to cam operation to avoid that

[Anonymous No.1782605]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lZALC_Do2Q8

>machining old lathe carriage square

[Anonymous No.1782607]

>>1782403
Spindle moving on Z and Y, that's standard for routers. Bigger routers even have XYZ moving and a static bed.

[Anonymous No.1782609]

Finally god my hands on some WD40

How often should i spritz into the cut for my 3mm endmill ?

[Anonymous No.1782615]

>>1782609
Never

[Anonymous No.1782618]

>>1782615
listen here bitch, do you have any idea how hard was it to get hold of this stuff during a state wide quarantine where all non food stores are closed? I had to find a small construction material shop and risk getting infected in their closed off dispensing area just to get this thing so i am in no mood for your autistic infantile jokes son!

[Anonymous No.1782619]

>>1782618
regularly enough

[Anonymous No.1782627]

>>1782618
If you weren't such a spastic retard you might've noticed the posts telling you that you don't need coolant for milling aluminium and that oil will make chip evacuation worse.

[Anonymous No.1782629]

>>1782627
every single guide i read says otherwise
everyone praises WD40 as this miracle fluid that take milling aluminium from jagged shit to god emperor HAAS factory

[Anonymous No.1782631]

>>1782629
Well if you already have it, just try using it, maybe it won't make evacuation that terrible. It depends on the shape of what you're milling, but your shit is narrow deep holes, aka the worst situation. Clear the chips out of the holes as often as you can, if you don't have a compressor to blow air then just use a nail or something and scrape it out.

[Anonymous No.1782633]

>>1782631
>>1782629
use two offsets, make the first 2d contour slot halfway down offset from the actual edge 0.020" or so, clean up halfway down at the actual size, then the next passes will have some room for chip evac going down all the way.

Really you should have an air blast at least though. And yes WD-40 should prevent chip weld.

[Anonymous No.1782662]

YES I DID IT!

i finally made that stupid fucking carabiner!

WD40 is literally THE SHIT

When i started cutting i heard chatter and the usual shit, and started to mentally steel myself for another broken endmill, but as soon as i sprayed some of this liquid gold in, it's as if the god himself came down from heaven and came on my endmill

there were absolutely no chips getting stuck to the end mill, the cutting was so incredibly quiet in fact that when i turned my hand held vacuum on the spindle could not be heard at all

And look at this chipload, those chips are fucking MASSIVE i never ever got chips this large before

i was also cutting 700mm/min with 0.1mm DOC at 8000 RPM and the spindle or the steppers had no issue whatsoever with keeping up the feedrate

I am so fucking happy right now, holy shit, i can't believe nobody here recommended me the wd40 and i found it by complete chance when reading tutorials

[Anonymous No.1782664]

>>1782662
the carabiner turned out to be a useless piece of shit, the stock would have to be like twice as thick for it to work properly and the aluminium isn't nearly springy enough but i don't even care anymore i can mill fucking aluminium now

kind of regret ordering 20 endmills now, this one will probably last me for like 10 years now that i know how to do it properly

[Anonymous No.1782665]

>>1782664
also i fucked up with the tabs and made them too thin which caused the piece to get ripped from the stock near the end and it got damaged but live and learn i guess

[Anonymous No.1782678]

>>1782665
need to make them wider

[Anonymous No.1782723]

ITS ALIVE

now how do I replace the battery and fix the parameters?

[Anonymous No.1782726]

>tfw giant piece of industrial machinery hums to life, fucking multiple fans and big contactors and power supplies, hydraulic pump

[Anonymous No.1782734]

>>1782201
Get yourself some isopropyl alcohol from a pharmacy. Probably expensive though

[Anonymous No.1782736]

>>1782734
don't, it tastes like shit

[Anonymous No.1782797]

>>1782726

[Anonymous No.1782802]

>>1782797
https://youtu.be/F41vW3kJxx4

5,508 hours on her though

[Anonymous No.1782804]

>>1782797
https://youtu.be/EYwTx9NuMgU

more alarms info

[Anonymous No.1782811]

>>1782797
looks like the flashing ---EMG--- is probably due to lazily wiring the oil chiller or perhaps the overtravel

[Anonymous No.1782881]

>>1782802
What year >Tormach guy?

[Anonymous No.1782990]

>>1782881
it's a '98

[Anonymous No.1782993]

>>1782881
https://youtu.be/LxTGlVSaPvg

[Anonymous No.1783030]

reee i better have operations manual 2 so i can figure out how to release the door interlock

[Anonymous No.1783035]

When i machine soft wood the edges are covered by raised wood fibers which i then have to manually sandpaper away, but the bottom of the product is always very smooth without any of that
Is there some magical type of endmill which will give me clean edges on both top and bottom?

[Anonymous No.1783036]

>>1783035
make sure the endmill has a grind for aluminum, or maybe plastic but even then better results with hardwood I bet.

[Anonymous No.1783038]

>>1783035
I think you need something really sharp, there exist endmills specifically for wood and plastic.

[Anonymous No.1783039]

>>1783036
>>1783038
do you think doing a pass on the edges with chamfer mill would remove all the burr?
I don't have any chamfer mills so i wonder if it would be worth it to order them for this purpose

[Anonymous No.1783040]

>>1783039
yeah I used a drill mill to chamfer on my last wood project

[Anonymous No.1783045]

>>1783040
okay, i ordered some 90 deg chamfer chinkmills
and now we play the waiting game

[Anonymous No.1783071]

>>1782993
>>1782811

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/cnc-machining/fanuc-0imd-problems-emg-284991/

Looks like the overtravel alarm might be a hard limit alarm, which explains the ---EMG--- alarm which causes the servo drives to display "-" or not ready.

replaced 4 D cell batteries and the axis ZRN errors went away, probably still need new special fanuc batteries in the power supplies tho.

[Anonymous No.1783223]

>>1783040
>drill mill
you mean ordinary drill you use in a power drill?
no way that worked

[Anonymous No.1783225]

>>1783223
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/06298731

2 flute 90 degree angle point carbide endmill

[Anonymous No.1783230]

>>1783225
hmm i wonder i vcutter would work too

[Anonymous No.1783283]

>now we play the waiting game
>batteries
>air fitting
>DNC device

[Anonymous No.1783286]

A wire got loose from a contactor, now all axis moves. I still have to press the start button to enable the spindle, the pump and axes. I guess more digging in the chip ridden brittle oily wiring for me.

[Anonymous No.1783287]

>>1783286
Oh and i dug up a tiny monitor too to make the retro interface complete.

[Anonymous No.1783292]

>>1783286
>>1783287
So uh you're obviously better at troubleshooting old cnc than me.

The wire harness from the machine has a plug specifically for the hydraulic oil chiller, all of the wires are labeled and match up to the terminal on the chiller except for two of them.

How the hell do I figure out how to wire the chiller and chip conveyor back together?

[Anonymous No.1783295]

>>1783292
is there like a socket on the machine somewhere that the chip conveyor VFD plugs into? What about the coolant pump stuff? The terminals on it have the wires removed.

[Anonymous No.1783306]

>>1783292
>better
luckier
I spent a lot of time looking at the wiring, if i didnt accidentally spot that loose wire id be still knee deep in the machine.

>how hell do I figure out
Id trace back (and forth) the wires first, you can deduce phases/polarity and other stuff by that.
What helped me a lot is i started drawing the wiring. After i cleaned up the scribbles most of the stuff got easier to understand.

[Anonymous No.1783308]

can 2.5mm collet clamp 2.3mm dia tool?

[Anonymous No.1783310]

>>1783308
Depends on the type of collet, and if you know the type of collet, then you can look this information up.

[Anonymous No.1783312]

>>1783306
no reason to be modest, I'll go take some pictures

[Anonymous No.1783313]

>>1783310
this one

i tried to look but all i can find are the size of the collects but no info on what range of tools it can fit, usually the tools are exactly the same dia as the collet hole

[Anonymous No.1783323]

>>1783312
as far as I can tell this thing is chip conveyor power and control all in one, just don't know where on the machine (if at all) it plugs in at. Haven't located that yet.

[Anonymous No.1783325]

>>1783323
this here is what the coolant pump terminal looks like

[Anonymous No.1783326]

>>1783325
this here 4 pin 4 wire plug came unattached, possibly for the coolant pump terminal?

[Anonymous No.1783327]

>>1783326
and here is a close up of the access port for the hydraulic chiller, the wire bundles are from the harness coming out of the back of the machine

i played connect the dots matching up the wire labels until it stopped working

[Anonymous No.1783330]

>>1783327
big hose on top is the wire harness conduit thing attached to the hydraulic chiller

[Anonymous No.1783331]

>>1783313
Probably ER11, yes it can fit 2.3mm. They typically have 0.5mm range.

[Anonymous No.1783343]

>>1780969
Is there a good textbook that covers the calculation? For those of us who learn best that way

[Anonymous No.1783367]

>>1783323
>until it stopped working
wait what?

>>1783325
>>1783326
This would go straight to the machine?

>>1783327
The wires leaving the terminals to the right (24NC, 0CAL, 50, ...) go to harness or inside the machine?
I assume the it is powered through a separate mains cable, hence the R S T E terminals.

Id pop off the hood and see where the cabling goes.
I dont think theres too much brain in either of the machines so the cabling should eventually end up in a relay/contactor or a sensor. From there its easier to figure out what each cable does and where it should go in the main machine. If it goes to there at all.

[Anonymous No.1783371]

i have a small sand paper ball tool that came with my dremel and i think this could totally work for wood deburring as a stand in before my chamfer mills arrive.

Can't wait to try it tommorrow

[Anonymous No.1783372]

>>1783343
I think youtube is your best bet, though I don't know if there are any properly comprehensive videos out there. I've learned primarily from my own mistakes, plus a lot of google and youtube.
Machinery's handbook probably has all the data in it, but it's not really a learning format as far as I know. Dicking around with speed-feed calculators might also help.

[Anonymous No.1783417]

Is anyone thinking of floating the idea to retool the shop you're at to help produce ventilator parts? I am considering bringing this up when the shop inevitably closes down, anybody else?

[Anonymous No.1783460]

>>1783417
No, most of that shit is plastic and can be 3d printed

[Anonymous No.1783470]

>>1783367
>>until it stopped working
>wait what?

Yeah one of the wire bundles are labeled different than the terminals. Don't really know if I should plug them in to the M1/M2 spots, they are in the pic hanging bare.

>This would go straight to the machine?
eh hopefully, haven't located the outlets for the accessories yet.


>The wires leaving the terminals to the right (24NC, 0CAL, 50, ...) go to harness or inside the machine?

Inside the machine, I don't have the "operate" light lighting up but a fan kicks on when the hydraulics start moving through it. Heck maybe it only shows "operate" when it's cooling down the hydraulic fluid too.

I just kind of figured the wiring conduit with the 4 bundles of wires coming out of the bakc of the machine, and a special plug for the back of the chiller there, all the wires should be wired in there.

I hope it won't damage it if I plug the remaining ones into M1 and M2?

What are the chances they used the neo-flex 4 pin cable for power hooked up to some custom breaker or something?

[Anonymous No.1783472]

>>1783417
Well I wouldn't mind helping out, but I don't think I can do so with the importance and capacity it deserves what with my current workload.

[Anonymous No.1783561]

>>1783472
I'm at an electric mechanical assembly plant in one of the hardest hit areas of the us. We make atms, vending machines, cash registers, rebox dvd rental stations, automated key making stations etc. Pretty much anything that's folded sheet metal on the outside and machined shit and wires and plcs on the inside. This is right up out wheelhouse. We are going to close down, dozens have already been laid off. During ww2 auto factories retooled to produce arms (this may be a meme never checked if it's true) why is this different?

[Anonymous No.1783563]

>>1783470
Okay I found the outlets for the neo-flex plugs, one 4 pin and one 8 pin. 4 pin is probably for the coolant pump.

On to the next question, there are 3 pairs of hydraulic hoses coming out of the back of the machine, and the chiller unit only accepts two pairs. Possibly the chiller unit was added after the subspindle quit working, so maybe the subspindle chucking pressure doesn't matter?

>>1783561
because I'm one nigger in a barn with a few old machines and currently working on a 20 year old CNC

>importance
>capacity

[Anonymous No.1783600]

Anyone know of any companies that still make cat 40 tool holders with built in coolant connections?

[Anonymous No.1783640]

if downcut bit has left spiral does that mean i have to rotate it CCW in the spindle?

[Anonymous No.1783642]

>>1783371
well fuck me, the ball fell off
i guess i got the rpms wrong

[Anonymous No.1783644]

>>1783563
why don't you just that prettier cnc in the back instead of this old piece of shit?

[Anonymous No.1783751]

>>1783563
Whats the big cylinder for in the back?

[Anonymous No.1783757]

>>1783751
oh that's an old propane cylinder, it's just something dad collected years ago that I haven't thrown out.

Could be useful some day I guess.

[Anonymous No.1783758]

>>1783600
clarify, there are tons of ways of shoving coolant into, onto, or through a tool holder

[Anonymous No.1783816]

>>1783758
https://www.bigkaiser.com/en/products/tool-holders/coolant-inducers/tg-collet-type

this kind

[Anonymous No.1783822]

>>1783460
>typical armchair [whatever] normie response

This is a machine shop. If you're actually serious about producing parts at a worthwhile quantity, 3D printing is a borderline retarded option because a machine shop is going to have 90%+ of the equipment necessary to produce injection molds. The only thing they wouldn't already have is the injection molding machine itself, and possibly someone who can design the molds in the first place, I suppose.

>...b-but those machines are expensive...

Used ones aren't too hard on the wallet, and they can easily shit out parts 2 orders of magnitude faster than a 3D printer can. Never even mind potential issues stemming from the porosity of printed parts, cost of the printed parts, or the amount of babysitting the printers are going to need.

[Anonymous No.1783829]

>>1783822
You underestimate the amount of shit printers out there that are waiting to print a minimal tolerance valve for no benefit of their own to feel like they're helping.

But yeah machines are inherently better in almost every way.

[Anonymous No.1783862]

>>1783563
What are the chances one pair of "hydraulic" hoses actually go to the coolant pump outlets?

[Anonymous No.1783889]

finally got the coolant pump on the manual lathe at work running but how the fuck do you even use it? if I turn the flow up it runs down the carriage onto the floor and if I turn it down the air pressure from the spindle blows it into my face.

>>1783035
I don't know if it helps with that but always climb mill wood

[Anonymous No.1783890]

>>1783889
it's great for drilling and boring, some makeshift guards perhaps?

[Anonymous No.1783893]

>>1783889
there is indeed .. google compression endmill

[Anonymous No.1783895]

>>1783035

sorry the last message was in reply to this post

a compression bit is what you want to reduce tear out,
especially if working with laminates

https://www.popularwoodworking.com/cnc/cnc-tooling-basics-for-woodworkers-part-three/

[Anonymous No.1783944]

>>1783640
anyone??

[Anonymous No.1783956]

>>1783640
i don't know what that means handedness is more natural

[Anonymous No.1783963]

>>1783956
well that is what the chinks are calling it
" Left Spiral down cut"
sop i wonder if i can run it in the spindle clockwise like my other bits

[Anonymous No.1783981]

>>1783895
compression bit would be useless if you don't go deep enough for shit like enrgaving or cutting thin wood won't work because you have to go deep enough where the part of the bit that turns from up cut to downcut is submerged in the stock

[Anonymous No.1784060]

>>1783944
>>1783963

You run it normal, it's just like it says, it's meant to cut down instead of normal up cutting, it's useful for certain materials.

[Anonymous No.1784063]

>>1784060
i know i purchased it for plywood and other soft woods because when i try to mill them with my normal up cut 2 flute mills the edges looks fucking DISGUSTING
and i have to hand sand every single one of them afterwards
i watched some vids where a guy used downcut mills in soft wood and the finish looked as if you cut titatnium, perfectly smooth

[Anonymous No.1784111]

Oh great now the phaseperfect is acting up.

"IGBT FAULT"

after it sits idle with the load wires disconnected (or connected) for about a minute one of the contactors starts flipping on/of at random too

another day on the phone

[Anonymous No.1784124]

Not to be morbid, but if this covid19 thing really is going to kill a bunch of older people, does that mean a bunch of used home shop equipment should be hitting the market this summer? I really want to get a bench top mill, and a lathe.

[Anonymous No.1784125]

>>1784124
I like the way you think.

[Anonymous No.1784129]

I got tired of manually jogging to set z0 every time i changed a bit and there is no way i am buying one of those bulky overpriced shits for 60 yuros they sell in eshops (i don't really need micrometer precision anyway), so i ghetto rigged this touch plate and it's actually working really well and is pretty precise and cost me like 5 cents to make, so now when it's time to change a bit during a job i do literally just that, change the bit and hit resume and it reprobes itself.
it's the little things like this that help me maintain my sanity in this graveyard of broken endmills

[Anonymous No.1784159]

>>1784124
It means 100% economic recession based on Demography by 2025 anyway due to retirement and simple mortality of the richest and largest generation in not only American but human history.

And ironically, cheaper commercial loan rates. Time to buy that apartment complex soon?

[Anonymous No.1784507]

I want to get a pendant but i can't decide if i should go wired or wireless.
WIreless is nice since obviously no wires, but you have to change the battery all the time and it turns itself off to save energy, the wired one is just plug it in and it works forever so i'm torn

[Anonymous No.1784635]

>"the plant will be shutting down for 2 weeks because ford/valeo shutdown....."
yes yes yes
>"everyone except the tool room"
MOTHER FUCK. which is a sly way of saying just me and my mananger. the other 3 tool makers are just roughing stock for my cnc work. and with going from 100 people to 6-10 people(5 tool makers, 4 manangers and the guy who has the key to lock up) its hard to openly machine personal projects on work time when theres only 4 other people . fucking covid i want that 2 weeks off

[Anonymous No.1784663]

>>1784635
Just do it anyway?

[Anonymous No.1784664]

>>1784635
Count yourself lucky anon, your useful enough to keep around, you may have a job thru all of this, some people aren't so lucky.

[Anonymous No.1784698]

>>1784664
Yeah can confirm, my fucking phaseperfect is fucked. Display shows "IGBT FAULT".

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3UNnoMK5Zs

[Anonymous No.1784700]

>>1784698
and if you leave it on for a minute it starts kicking the contactor in/out trying to restart

pretty sure it's going to be until monday at least to talk to their engineer about it and get some parts in

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iL1HJifMKHs

[Anonymous No.1784734]

>>1784700
Told you bro, should've gotten 3 phase 480v and then just transformed it down.

[Anonymous No.1784771]

>>1784734
for another 50k? sheeeitt...

[Anonymous No.1784787]

>>1784698
>>1784700
hmmm

Just went out and flipped the switch again, no problems starting up. I wonder if having gravel put down over the new line I had ran (20k lb truck driving over it) made it susceptible to water?

Alternatively, could be line fluctuation from the power company. That would be a bit more involved to fix, probably some kind of power conditioning unit before the PP.

Or it could just have been a temporary fault from the load side that needed an extended shutdown to clear..

[Anonymous No.1784827]

>>1784771
50k? Why was it going to cost that much?

[Anonymous No.1784844]

>>1784827
1.5 miles of poles and wire

[Anonymous No.1784847]

>>1784844
Holy shit no wonder

[Anonymous No.1784922]

I made a screw

[Anonymous No.1784923]

fucked up a little cutting the slot

[Anonymous No.1784926]

it matches the other screws so I guess it's ok

[Anonymous No.1784928]

>>1784926
Make nice screws and time the slots to make them all align straight.

[Anonymous No.1784974]

>>1784922
>turn first inch, thread it
>turn next inch, repeat until reach chuck
>take finish pass cleaning up to final diameter across the length

should help you avoid some chatter and problems with it pushing away from the tool so much

[Anonymous No.1784977]

>>1784974
Or he could use a live center in the tailstock

[Anonymous No.1784978]

>>1784977
if it's long and thin enough it will still want to bow in the middle

and that's a pretty crappy surface finish for using a center

[Anonymous No.1784979]

>>1784978
He didn't use a center as far as I know. Bow in the middle really isn't that bad for that kind of part. Bow is an issue for like 15D+, he's probably at like 8D.

[Anonymous No.1784982]

>>1781720
Currently working as an equipment tech in a Chinese factory in the US. All of our factory equipment came like that, NEW. Get on my level. Or just kill me.

[Anonymous No.1785077]

>>1784977
I did. I just took it off to face the end and round it off with a file. the finish sucks probably because it's 4140 and I was using power feed even though the lowest setting was still too fast.

[Anonymous No.1785364]

>>1784926
savage 99?

[Anonymous No.1785385]

>>1785364
1899. the forend attaches differently which is why I had to make that screw since no one had parts for that style.

[Anonymous No.1785455]

new edge precision, and what's this gauge-maker thing?

>tfw stuff to diy your own gauges

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54PjxK1Ewvw

[Anonymous No.1785498]

>>1784922
>i made a round thing on a lathe
wow! what a feat
call me when you make a square son

[Anonymous No.1785501]

>>1785498
>see cnc lathe video on youtube entitled "the highest level of cnc lathe"
>notice uploader is indian

>it's live tool milling

[Anonymous No.1785505]

got an email from this orderfox place, apparently it's like xometry or something

[Anonymous No.1785616]

Can we talk about rust? how do you deal with it? how do you take it off and take care?
I usually just rub it with a scourer and apply WD40, but I don't think that to be correct.

[Anonymous No.1785810]

>>1785616
Brass wire wheel it off, then paint with enamel or epoxy paint. This is what I do to rust on my machine interior.

[Anonymous No.1785861]

>>1785616
scrub it off with some oil of some kind, then make sure it's oiled or coated in rust preventive

[Anonymous No.1785866]

if I have a scew that's stuck hard enough that it snapped the head off when someone tried to remove it is it just going to snap the extractor when I try to use it? I was able to drill through it easily enough and the extrctor is biting into what's left, but it feels like it's going to break. I don't know if trying to choke up on it in a spare drill chuck instead of a tap handle will help or just make it snap right at the surface and make it worse.

[Anonymous No.1785868]

>>1785866
can you douse it in penetrating oil first?

[Anonymous No.1785999]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FGX2dzCCGTA

[Anonymous No.1786029]

>>1784787

It MOVES now!

Oh and I managed to get the parameters to load from my new DNC device too. Major progress. Power source is fine, machine is fine (aside from X axis sitting on hard limit switch), feels good.

XYZ axes need zeroed tho. Door interlock is already pretty annoying.

[Anonymous No.1786031]

>>1785868
it has a shit load of thread locker on it but I think the main issue is that every screw on the part was torqued on with gorilla power.

[Anonymous No.1786032]

>>1786031
heat and beat?

[Anonymous No.1786039]

Hmm i wonder how hard would this be to mill on a 3 axis machine

I have 1mm ballnose which i think could be great for clean surface detail without ugly steps which flatnose endmills leave behind.

[Anonymous No.1786041]

>>1786039
If we're not counting the fact it's hollow, not too terrible. Just need to figure out work holding.
>I have 1mm ballnose
Great I'll see you in three weeks!

[Anonymous No.1786044]

>>1786041
my plan is to cut it into a stock as a silhouete and then i do contour around the stock so i can simply flip it inside down and it will still be aligned and mill out the bottom and then as a last op i cut it out of that stock piece
also there is no way to use any bigger tool than that if i don't want it to look like shit

[Anonymous No.1786462]

>>1786039
tabbed is probably easiest

[Anonymous No.1786482]

>tfw free phone service from DMG Mori

https://us.dmgmori.com/service-and-training/customer-service/24-7-hotline

[Anonymous No.1786486]

>>1786482
>$175 / hr for someone to even just show up and fix their shit if their inferior hardware breaks
wow for that kind of money you might as well just buy a new machine

[Anonymous No.1786490]

>>1786486
Most other places it's usually more though isn't it?

[Anonymous No.1786491]

>>1786486
>$175/hr for Cucknadians
>$155/hr for chad-mericans

Also, yeah might as well get a $200k business loan for a brand new machine instead of paying the $300 to get a service tech over.

[Anonymous No.1786503]

>>1786491
a repair will usually take a whole day so about 10 hours and that is $1750 and you can get an entire used smaller CNC for that and repair the broken one yourself because it's fucking easy, you can even make replacement parts for it on your other mills, it's literally the best possible place for the cnc to break, around other cncs

[Anonymous No.1786509]

>>1786503
>you can get an entire used smaller CNC for that

kek

[Anonymous No.1786512]

>>1786503
Yeah, no. If something fucks up that isn't a simple fix then you better call those jews to fix it because of how precise the machine runs. I'm not diying a spindle.

[Anonymous No.1786540]

>>1786512
Waiting on a call back about the EMG alarm at the moment.

[Anonymous No.1786561]

>>1786540
good lad, hopefully you can get that shit running.

[Anonymous No.1786578]

>>1786561
>okay get your multimeter and find OT1 and SQ1, SQ2, SQ3, and SQ4, get readings

>looking inside cabinet at the bottom where he said it would be
>no fucking OT1 anywhere nor low number SQ anywhere

[Anonymous No.1786580]

I ordered this thing from the chinks

The chuck can only hold about 6cm dia things, but thats fine. This will be great for making shit like figurines from wood.

It costs only hundred bucks so if it's shit i won't be losing any real money.

The only problem is they only offer DHL shipping which is free, but too fast, only 7 days, which is not long enough for the corona coating on the parts to die

[Anonymous No.1786583]

>>1786580
just dump some vodka on it when it gets here

[Anonymous No.1786680]

I want to get a small mill to learn on, do small projects. I say small because I have no room in my garage, and will need to get it into my basement.

My assumption is, if I get something bigger than the infamous harbor freight mini mill, it's going to be too heavy for me to get it down the steps in one piece.

Am I just shooting myself in the foot by planning on disassembling a better mill and ferrying it down piece be piece? If I do that no individual part should be over 150lbs, right?

[Anonymous No.1786744]

>>1786680
>Am I just shooting myself in the foot by planning on disassembling a better mill and ferrying it down piece be piece? If I do that no individual part should be over 150lbs, right?
base is probably +500. for a bridgeport type.

[Anonymous No.1786753]

>>1786744
There are machines between those two extremes

[Anonymous No.1786890]

>>1786680
machines are heavy as all hell

[Anonymous No.1786891]

>>1786578
moved subspindle forward a little, flashing --EMG-- went away.

Now I can move the X, Z and subspindle around without holding down the button. Progress?

New problem, POSition page doesn't show the Y axis. Guessing I screwed up putting in the parameters or something.

[Anonymous No.1786904]

>>1786891
Pretty sure I know what's wrong with the subspindle, rotating sub chuck by hand reveals a noise like a thin metal disk loose and dragging in there. Encoder? If so, fixing it might be reasonable.

[Anonymous No.1786908]

>>1781854
a mori is some pretty good iron to start with. I know people replace mitsubishi contols with fanuc all the time but you'd be better served at cnczone and like where the boomers roam for advice on old mori stuff.

[Anonymous No.1786910]

>>1786908
I'm just gonna talk to DMG tomorrow about it. They will probably tell me what I need to know.

[Anonymous No.1786916]

>>1786908
sorry I just got here from pol and realized the update rate is in days and not minutes.

[Anonymous No.1786922]

>>1786910
fucking top notch work though anon. If your display dies there's also a cheap fix using a thriftstore monitor and $100 box you can get on amazon for retrofitting old arcade game hardware.

[Anonymous No.1786959]

>>1786680
Just build a shed around it on your front lawn

[Anonymous No.1786999]

>>1786680
Real milling machines are heavy motherfuckers. Rigidity, and therefore usefulness, is a function of mass and bulk. You could check out the grizzley g0704 or precision matthews pm-25mv as moderately capable benchtop mills that are man portable when disassembled. If that's still too big the taig micro mill is decent but very limited.

[Anonymous No.1787012]

>>1786680
>Am I just shooting myself in the foot by planning on disassembling a better mill and ferrying it down piece be piece? If I do that no individual part should be over 150lbs, right?

I actually scrapped a mill (a Lagun) a while ago, and weighed the pieces as I loaded them up. If I remember the approximate weights correctly...

The ram weighed 230lbs.
The base weighed 400lbs.
The knee weighed 350lbs.

I still have the table, I'd hazard it's a little over 250lbs, but I haven't weighed it. The head assembly I also kept for parts and is the second-lightest assembly. It's somewhere north of 100lbs. The lightest bit is the saddle, which is maybe 50-ish lbs.

The body was the heaviest part, but I don't know by how much because I cut it up and kept it. I know it was easily 500lbs, though.

Keep in mind, I'm sure I'm missing something and/or underestimating, because the total weight, even adding some on top for all the smaller bits, doesn't make up the 2500lbs+ of the assembled machine's weight. Either way, there are plenty of parts on a full-sized mill that are too heavy to wrangle by yourself.

You're going to be stuck with one of the weird, mid-size "benchtop" mills if you want something movable, even disassembled, by hand.

[Anonymous No.1787051]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvhyTGjxNZ4

Wire EDM shop, pretty cool.

[Anonymous No.1787264]

Some minor Y axis clamp issues, rather than spend $500 to get a tech out, going to wait until like Monday to get free support.

Wish me luck.

[Anonymous No.1787268]

>>1787264
Other than that though, machine is coming along nicely. Hell the subspindle even turns and slides forward/back.

[Anonymous No.1787521]

>have a chinesium dial indicator
>it is an utter piece of shit (duh!)
>want to get a proper one
>Starrett is $300 CAD + another $300 for the base.
Is there no middle ground with this shit?

[Anonymous No.1787523]

>>1782365
You need to spend $2000+ and get a Sherline or a TAIG before you even fuck around with CNC and milling.

[Anonymous No.1787524]

>>1787521
You'll have it for the rest of your life if you're not a klutz

[Anonymous No.1787529]

>>1787521
I'd go with Mitutoyo, we've had bad luck with Starrets newer stuff where i work.

[Anonymous No.1787536]

>>1787529
I second mitutoyo if you want something quality but priced right. Jap stuff is hard to beat sometimes. I guess there are other brands like Mahr Federal and my interapid is pretty great.

[Anonymous No.1787537]

To the anon working on the old CNC machines:
>Is it worth it restoring these machines?
>How do the older CNC machines compare to the newer ones?
>Do you actually get paid properly for your skills?

[Anonymous No.1787539]

>>1784124
>does that mean a bunch of used home shop equipment should be hitting the market this summer?
Yes because even if corochan is a nothing burger the economy has crashed and all the boomers hoarding used lathes and other tools will have to sell them to pay the bills.

[Anonymous No.1787565]

Beginner here. I've got a line on an old South Bend lathe for sale. Its an American mode model. The seller has posted some garbo pictures so I can't make out the model but it appears to be in decent shape and is a good size. They don't know what they have as the listing uses the wrong name and said it is a wood lathe so I might be able to snatch it up for only a couple hundred bucks. I currently have a 36 inch Atlas I picked up cheap but it was a bottom of the line model and doesn't even have a leadscrew. Problem is, I am looking at a 4-hour drive to pick up the SB lathe and I really don't know much about them. Are they better than what I have?

[Anonymous No.1787566]

>>1787537
Not him but I'll put in my two cents. Depends how much work they need and how hard parts are to get. We have an old HAAS VF2 at work I've had to fix a few times. Most things on it are off shelf components that are still made so it's not too bad if you can find a model number that isn't for HAAS itself. For how they compare, again depends on the machine. They're usually slower and don't do well with modern toolpaths or 3D surfacing because the controllers can't keep up with the code. They also might not have certain codes or features that are standard now.

[Anonymous No.1787646]

>>1787565
is it a 10 or a 13" or what?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_iVFxJEC8k

[Anonymous No.1787658]

>>1787521
A tool rep I work with a lot turned me on to insize metrology tools. Then one day he brought over a small set of dial calipers and a digital micrometer and an indicator and had me compare them to a Mit and a Starret. I was very impressed. Apparently they have done contract work for Mit before and are basically the same just differently branded. I've bought 0-4 mics, 8" dial calipers,. 0005 dial test indicator and a few other odds and ends from them (not even from this tool rep mind you usually just buy cutting tools and holders from this guy) and have absolutely zero complaints or doubts about their quality. The dial calipers work better than a set of brand new starters a colleague recently bought. Around a third the price of Mits and starters. Sell everything from scales to CMMs. Check email out.

[Anonymous No.1787671]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWyF9doc4Uw

[Anonymous No.1787768]

>>1787537
idk if I'm the guy you're talking about, but so far I'm 0 for 3 on getting old cnc machines up and running. Every time I part one out for more than I paid for it so I'm not losing money but I spend a lot of time for nothing. To be fair I have no qualifications or experience doing this work so if you know what you are doing you might have better luck.

[Anonymous No.1787769]

>>1787768
so uh, my old Mori has this weird thing where when I try to zero return the axes they will overtravel instead of stopping and won't move all the way in the other direction, like it thinks it's a shorter machine than it really is, or something.

I'm pretty sure I have the parameters screwed up.

[Anonymous No.1787841]

>>1787769
Limit switches bad?

[Anonymous No.1787850]

>7th day away from the shop
>sense of smell returning
>food tastes better
>can breathe through nose again
I'm reconsidering my career choices

[Anonymous No.1787852]

>>1787646
Good question. Here is the listing picture. What is your opinion on the model? It is from one of those godawful online business liquidation auction sites and it looks like it was coded 25 years ago by a crackhead.

[Anonymous No.1787874]

>>1787850
I quit in august to learn a new trade and I feel a lot better. Was having constant infections in one eye because of a problem with my tear duct, its cleared up since i left. Also breath a lot better.

[Anonymous No.1787923]

>>1787850
>>1787874
>I to delivery for a metalworking shop
>One guy in the shop always wearing a full mask with a respirator
>Everyone always giving him shit for it
>Also the only guy in the shop that doesn't have eye or nose issues every other week
>All the boomers in the shop; "Its a mystery!"
>Grinding a part on the 8 inch bench grinder and a wheel explodes
>Whering mask, gloves, leather apron, no major injury
>"Really dodged a bullet there, son"
>Also, the only guy never having to deal with welders flash
>"Man, this guy is the luckiest fucker ever born..."

Wear your PPE dumbasses.

[Anonymous No.1787930]

>>1787923
Unless I bought and wore a full face mask I doubt it would have changed much, working on a lathe with 1"+ udrills making mist and vapor. I wore my safety glasses religiously, it's only in the last year I started having eye problems. People at the shop kept complaining and suggesting buying mistbusters, or even rigging bathroom fans to the machines to help mitigate it but the boss was too cheap and said bathroom fans would look too trashy. At least I wasn't ingesting coolant eating candy and peanuts with my dirty hands like some guys at the shop.

[Anonymous No.1787965]

>>1787521
insize copst me like around $100cad, but i get nice used mity from second hand place

[Anonymous No.1787967]

>>1787852
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4hqLif-R4E4

9A perhaps?

[Anonymous No.1787968]

>>1787930
ya u wanna wear a respirator with an organic vapour filter if ur dealing with coolant mist. good luck finding one with the china flu going around tho

[Anonymous No.1787971]

>>1787841
No they work just fine sometimes.

[Anonymous No.1787982]

>>1787967
1958 catalog page.

[Anonymous No.1787986]

I broke 3 screw extractors trying to get this stuck screw out today. it moved about 1 thread but every time the extractor would snap right at the base. are there any other tricks before I give up and retap the hole?

[Anonymous No.1787992]

>>1787986
pics?

[Anonymous No.1787993]

>>1787992
didn't take any. it's a 6-40 or 6-48 screw I think in a through hole. I drilled all the way through it but the extractor chewed through most of what's left of the screw so I don't know if I can do much else.

[Anonymous No.1787997]

>>1787993
Something that small is pretty challenging. I've had some luck in the past with a micro flat bladed screwdriver by mashing it into the hole drilled into the old screw. It often helps to use like a dremel or something to cut a bit of a flat into it to get some more purchase.

[Anonymous No.1788004]

>>1787997
well I think I'm fucked because all that's left of the screw is maybe .01 past the thread minor diameter. I think the reason it was stuck in the first place is because there was a shit ton of high temperature thread lock on it so I can't try to chisel the remains out either.

[Anonymous No.1788007]

>>1788004
Any issue drilling/tapping to 8-something?

[Anonymous No.1788027]

>>1787521
Asimeto (SOWA sells these)
Insize (KAR sells these)
Fowler (Lots of tool sellers have these)

[Anonymous No.1788035]

okay got my economic injury disaster loan application filled out

now we wait to get our $10,000 forgivable loan (as long as you use it for business purposes...)

[Anonymous No.1788099]

Mori update. The entire list of parameters (over 9000 of them) is printed out and included in the electrical schematics folder, I was afraid to even look inside of it for a while. Reading through the first few thousand, there are some discrepancies. Hopefully should be an easy fix with tech support.

[Anonymous No.1788276]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=twJBCk2WElc

[Anonymous No.1788290]

>>1780829
I'm fixing up a Schaublin 102. I want to make some of the classic attachments for it, any sources on these things beyond the obvious? Any good lathe mods?

[Anonymous No.1788291]

>>1788290
Do a quick search of grabcad, there is an entire 3d model of an atlas lathe on there I think. The entire carriage at least. For documents I would first check vintagemachinery.org's library

[Anonymous No.1788334]

New thread:
>>1788333
>>1788333
>>1788333


>>

>>1788333
>>1788333
>>1788333

[Anonymous No.1788359]

>>1788334

LOL the /ohm/ guys would have about 10 aneurysims apiece if you did this in their thread.

[Anonymous No.1788367]

>>1788359
I swear some of the guys on here have legit autism or something.

[Anonymous No.1788423]

is there any gcode to pause the spindle and then later to start where it automatically uses previous rpm wiothout me having to specify it?

[Anonymous No.1788445]

>>1780958
bro most tool manufacturers provide feed and speed information in the appendix section of their catalog. see: https://www.onsrud.com/images/LMT%20Onsrud%20Product%20Cutting%20Tools%20Catalog%20PCT-19.pdf

starting around page 100. when using a new tool, i always set the feed for about 80% of the recommended rate, then experiment from there to get the best chip size / finish.

but start with the mfg recommendations. don't just use random feed/speed calculators you find on the internet

[Anonymous No.1788532]

>>1788423
do you mean in MDI mode?
Spindle speeds are usually modal but it may depend on what machine you are using.

[Anonymous No.1788904]

Why are haas programmer manuals so bad? What’s the point of taking 3 pages to explain a canned cycle if you’re not going to include an example part and program? Can somebody please explain how to calculate feeds and speeds to single point thread? Every haas guide I can find wants to explain the letter values over and over

[Anonymous No.1788906]

>>1788904
it's ez just make your feed rate = the pitch of the thread. make sure you are on g99. speed can be whatever based on your insert and material.

[Anonymous No.1788941]

>>1788906
So if I want a 3/8 - 16 thread I just use g99 f16.0?

[Anonymous No.1788946]

>>1788941
if you want m10-1.15 you would have F.059. 16 isnt pitch you nigger its threads per inch. 1/16=.0625

[Anonymous No.1789249]

is there a way to combine the upside down threading meme with the 29.5 degree infeed one?