/EMT/ Eternal Machinist Thread

[Anonymous No.1759876]

LIVE TOOLED LATHE EDITION

Thread hymn.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGNiXGX2nLU

Last thread: >>1745345

>Haas automation videos.
https://www.youtube.com/user/haasautomation/playlists
>Titans of CNC
https://www.youtube.com/user/titanamericanbuilt/playlists

[Anonymous No.1759878]

>try designing product idea I had in Fusion
>realize I'm an utter retard and give up
How was your day?

[Anonymous No.1759883]

>>1759878
Try again, the first time I tried I felt like a retard too. Then I picked it up again a month later and actually learned to use fusion. Then I tried modeling a few ideas, they were stupid or I couldn't model them very well. Another month goes by, then you finally get the hang of it.

You can do it.

[Anonymous No.1759894]

>>1759878
same, but on autocad.
Tried to understand why a sweep along an helix without alignment has a flat begginning but not a flat ending. Then gave up, drew it longer and removed a bit to have parallel faces

[Anonymous No.1759899]

>big boy tool box #1
>kennametal turning tools, boring bars, etc.
>all dorian/kennametal/dormer/valenite and they aren't even garbage, some are new in box
>fuckin mint kennametal profiling turning tools, all through tool coolant stuff too

Someone spent a fucking fortune on this machine over it's lifespan.

>4 live tool holders, plus another three on the machine
>inserts
>soft jaws
>hard jaws

[Anonymous No.1759902]

>>1759878
I'll do you one better.
>design quick detach suppressor system
>make a few
>think this will change a ton of industry shit because of ease of use
>have patent guy look into patents
>some company patented the idea not the design 2 years ago
Fuck

[Anonymous No.1759906]

>>1759899
sweet I even got a kennametal insert drill

[Anonymous No.1759910]

>>1759899
>made in USA Valenite round insert holder blasted by chips so much the finish is gone on the side with all the text
>insert pocket and shank still in good condition

[Anonymous No.1759922]

>>1759906
Damn, it's outdated. Can still get the inserts though.

[Anonymous No.1759941]

Anyone here have smol apartment setups

[Anonymous No.1759945]

>>1759941
We used to have some people with them, until they were murdered by their neighbors.

[Anonymous No.1759973]

what's the best way to hold a 3.5 od cylinder so I can drill holes in it? should I get taller vise jaws or try to put it on a v block and use clamps to hold it down? the v block I have doesn't have a groove in it for the horseshoe type clamp.

[Anonymous No.1759976]

I'd like to make a mill of some kind for milling casted aluminum parts. Specifically, rear lens mounts for cameras. The idea is to cast some rings then mill them down to spec. I've been looking at this mill combined with the dividing head for this purpose. It is really the only thing in my price range.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVMntyAjXZs
https://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-37110-Micro-Mill-MF/dp/B0017PTAHG
https://www.proxxon.com/us/micromot/37110.php

Thoughts?

[Anonymous No.1759980]

>>1759973
soft jaws?

bore a half cylinder into the jaws the size of the part

[Anonymous No.1759993]

>>1759980
V block and strap clamps. Dependung on its length you could use a vblock on both ends and just clamp above them. Or just set the thing down into one of the tslots and skip the V block altogether. Ive done this multiple time with success.

[Anonymous No.1760074]

https://www.mmsonline.com/articles/why-y-axis-for-turnmill-machines2

[Anonymous No.1760131]

What do you guys use to sharpen your endmills and drill bits?
Im thinking of buying or building a small tool grinder.

[Anonymous No.1760144]

>>1760131
a drill doctor. they work really good.

[Anonymous No.1760184]

hey guys its TAI THAN here from TAI THANS of cnc. im gonna show you how to make parts right here in AW MEH RICA

lets cut some chips xD

[Anonymous No.1760185]

Other than electrical problems (i have an idea how to deal with those) what problems can i have with old CNC mills? What are the deal breakers when buying one? How do i diagnose them when im up next to a machine?

[Anonymous No.1760186]

>>1760184
Yet you watch every single video

[Anonymous No.1760187]

>>1760186
hes great and thats just funny, no hate!

[Anonymous No.1760189]

>>1760187
I wish I could love anything as much as that guy

Not TaiThan here btw

[Anonymous No.1760192]

>>1760189
ive been watching tons of machining channels as my interest is growing and i think so many of them are really passionate and loving it.
in the current world, seeing them actually have so much fun in their stuff and it being cool af by default since you literally can make so much as you make parts for assembly. i kinda feel that is some kind of machinist love, really cool for sure

[Anonymous No.1760252]

is thisoldtony a machinist or nah?

[Anonymous No.1760267]

>>1760252
Very yeah

[Anonymous No.1760270]

>>1760252
He's a Tony of all trades

[Anonymous No.1760312]

so I went to set up the steady rest that came with the lathe I'm using but it just has brass studs instead of rollers. how the fuck do I use this?

[Anonymous No.1760335]

>>1760252
I dont think he is by trade.

[Anonymous No.1760336]

>>1760144
What about your taps and endmills?

[Anonymous No.1760358]

>>1760312
lube 'em up?

[Anonymous No.1760362]

Why does this collet have these extra grooves in it?

[Anonymous No.1760367]

>>1760192
It takes a certain person to be able to appreciate the ability to make fucking anything from a block of steel. Most cunts would rather just eat the premium and buy the thing they want off the shelf instead of having something that suits their specific needs entirely.

[Anonymous No.1760368]

>>1760362
Is that machined or a chip? Better photo please.

[Anonymous No.1760369]

>>1760368
they are machined all around the collet, it's a wedge shape

like i guess you could put a pin in there to spread it out or something

can't take better pics too lazy sorry

[Anonymous No.1760377]

>>1760369
cant answer too lazy sorry

[Anonymous No.1760409]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ap2texjJJi4&t=1s

[Anonymous No.1760426]

uh-oh one of these live tool blocks are a bit froze up (it's not mounted on the machine)

[Anonymous No.1760462]

>>1760426
They don't make grease the color of rust do they?

The static components look okay, the grease in the bearing housing has dried out and turned into little balls that roll around in the housing and give it a gritty feel.

There is a caked on puddle of this stuff in the direction gravity would pull it.

My guess is bearings overheated, the preload is adjusted with a castle nut so probably operator error.

Replacing O-rings just in case.

[Anonymous No.1760468]

>>1760358
can I keep less than .0005 runout like that?

[Anonymous No.1760473]

>>1760468
where they ride on the part will leave a mark for sure, but it shouldn't be much different than a rest with rollers.

Maybe don't spin it so fast?

[Anonymous No.1760475]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CscXtn49oR8

^ live tool turning tool

[Anonymous No.1760480]

>>1760475
I would show this to the lathe guy in our shop, but I think he might try to kill me. He's always complaining about being asked to make precise complex parts on a shitty claptrap 3 axis machine with no live tooling and no automatic tool holder as it.

[Anonymous No.1760482]

>>1760480
2 axis right?

[Anonymous No.1760516]

>>1760482
Yes, 2 axis is correct. I'm just retarded.

[Anonymous No.1760524]

maybe a stupid question for /EMT/ general but this is a CNC question and I guess it *technically* fits here and I don't want to make a thread cause I haven't lurked enuf on this board. anyway onto my question.

i want to make a pen plotter. I have access to a 3d printer and tools and what all. my budget is somewhere around 200. all i want is 2 axis and A2 size working bed. I found this https://github.com/bdring/midTbot_esp32 and i am wondering if modifying the design would be as simple as just making the rods and belts longer and fuckin with the plotting software bed size? i am also looking into blueprint style plotters but they seem more expensive?

please help.

[Anonymous No.1760530]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wuQRNDltuMQ

more 60hp makino

[Anonymous No.1760533]

>>1760524
I really like this.
>sped up to fit within 2min webm restriction

[Anonymous No.1760535]

>>1760533
that is pretty cool, you could probably make a fortune selling them

just remember your /diy/ bros when you are filthy rich

[Anonymous No.1760536]

>>1760530

I miss programming and running Makinos. If you never have ran one, you will never understand how solid and precise those machines are.

[Anonymous No.1760538]

>>1760535
I'm sure it is under some GNU license. You can always make your own design pretty simply. You just need to learn a few things. I'd like one with the 3D parts carved from wood instead of plastic.

[Anonymous No.1760539]

>>1760533
>ask for help
>someone makes a comfy webm
>gets (You)s while i get no advice
based webm maker.

[Anonymous No.1760543]

>>1760539
I know it can be done, but I've not done it. It should only be as simple as you state, so long as the programming takes it into account.

[Anonymous No.1760592]

>>1760524
Any 3d printer running open source software like Marlin can physically be scaled bigger and changed in the firmware easily.

You might even want to look into something like the LowRider cnc. Built it big enough to plot on a poster board or something. LowRider is stout enough you can add a drag knife and cut your own decals or throw a spindle and cut some wood.

[Anonymous No.1760594]

>>1760592
And yes, if you look most lowriders are made HUGE. The whole point is to make a cnc router large enough to cut a full 4x8 sheet of plywood. But again, you can scale it down

[Anonymous No.1760599]

>>1760592
>LowRider CNC
>$256.00 for a hardware bundle that doesn't include a control board, flat stock, or rails
is this really how much I can expect to pay for a plotter? should I give up on wanting one cause my budget has an extremely hard final cap of 200 and I want something for close to 100 if possible? I can get 3d prints at cost, but I cant fuckin afford 300 worth of hardware.

[Anonymous No.1760602]

>>1760599
You need 2 stepper motors, 2 drivers, one arduino, one driver shield, one PSU, belts, LM8UU linear bearings and misc hardware. The raw cost is somewhere around $40-50. Your problem is that you presumably don't have any tools to make the parts that go inbetween. If you can think of ways to assemble shit together from alu, wood, steel or plastic stock, you can make it for $50 or less. If you can't, you have to look for some existing designs.

[Anonymous No.1760611]

>>1760602
where can i get two stepper motors for less thatn 50 dollars? i have access to a 3d printer.so i can make custum parts but the stuff you listed obv i have to buy. where the best place fo rme to purchase? im really worried ill spend a shitload of money and just end up not finishing it cause im too confused. ive never done a project like this before but i dont wanna spend a gajillion for a prebuilt when i know that it would be cheaper to make my own.

god i feel so fucking dumb can you spoonfeed me? im sorry in advance.

[Anonymous No.1760648]

>>1760524
While this is really neat I don't know if simple changes to the rods and programming will suffice. There may be soft limits you need to mess with so it extends the extra little bit for the A2 paper size. Let us know how it works though

>>1760539
It's because you keep posting your lathe stuff and we're kinda tired of it. Get your lathe up and running and accepting code and then lets talk about it.

[Anonymous No.1760667]

>>1760611
Check out banggood.com. you can get belts, pulleys, stepper motors, servos, etc for cheap. Don't forget a power source if you need one. Its CNY now though, so shipping takes extra long. Make sure you get the right size stepper. They range from tiny to quasi-industrial that are used on hardwood\light aluminum mills.

[Anonymous No.1760695]

>>1760362
ER are double angle collets 16* on the back 30* on the front, which gives it a wide clamping range.
OR they are chink collets and they fucked up the indexing and then sold them for $1 each

[Anonymous No.1760701]

>>1759876
>When you have to machine a pocket using a .500" inserted tool.

>When you forget to remove the.125" length wear you added to tool #3 on the last job.

>When your programmed depth of cut is .100"

>When your inserts are only .150' tall...

>tfw it's cast iron so the tool somehow chews through it like nothing is wrong.

Ok so the surface finish isn't so great... nothing a .002 surface pass wont fix.

Please don't tell the customer.

[Anonymous No.1760705]

>>1760701
rookie mistake u fukken redditor

[Anonymous No.1760758]

>>1760705
Don't have a Reddit account. Have been there less times in my life than I've had sex in the last month. Can you say the same faggot?

[Anonymous No.1760773]

Best CNC under $50,000 ?
Yes, I’m LARPing but I am curious

[Anonymous No.1760784]

>>1760473
my initial idea was to build a cats head that would run in the steady rest so I could adjust both ends even for parts too short to use a spider on the headstock, but now I'm not sure it will work.

[Anonymous No.1760803]

>>1760773
Used machine from reputable brand.

[Anonymous No.1760810]

>>1760773
https://www.resellcnc.com/products/used-cnc-verticals/01tf1000004odxnAAA/mazak_variaxis_500

[Anonymous No.1760811]

>>1760810
>quarter mil plus machine new
>year 2005 for 60k 5axis with thru spindle coolant and everything

[Anonymous No.1760820]

>>1760599
You can use your 3d printer you already have to plot to its build volume, the problem is wanting more space.
That sort of build volume isnt normal in run of the mill 3d printers so you have to look elsewhere. That why I suggested looking into cnc routers, and the lowrider is a pretty cheap one for that build volume.

Hard 200$ is a low budget.

You could try to buy something like this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Laser-CNC-Router-Engraver-Machine-Carving-Mill-Drill-DIY-Woodworking-500mW/193326081638
Use your 3d printer to design and build a Z axis to hold your pen, then modify the firmware to accept and run it.

[Anonymous No.1760826]

>>1760820
i dont have a 3d printer i have a friend with one. i dont necessarily want to do any cuts i jsut want to plot with makers i already own.

[Anonymous No.1760836]

Guys, what is the name of this bracket thing? I want to make a joint between two frames with a roller in it but I couldn't find the correct name of this.

[Anonymous No.1760841]

>>1760611
As the other anon said, banggood.com will have everything, but they do charge a premium for the same thing they sell at aliexpress, only that banggood.com is more organized and it's easier to find things. Prices below will be for aliexpress, banggood is probably +50%.
For control you'll want either an Arduino Uno (~$3) and a GRBL shield($1.50) (make sure it's the grbl shield that fits an Uno) OR an Arduino MEGA with RAMPS (this might be overkill). That project you had in your first post and webm used an esp32, which is also cheap, but you have to decide to deliberately use their code and their designs if you go that way.
To actually run this, for the Uno you need to load grbl, which will interpret GCode and control the stepper motors. For MEGA it's RAMPS, for esp32 no idea, maybe there's a grbl fork or something.
You need 2-3 DRV8825 stepper motor drivers (~$1.50). You need 2 NEMA17 stepper motors, pretty much just buy the cheapest ones unless you want crazy speeds or lightweight ones (the cheapest ones are not the smallest/lightest); should be around $6-8.
I guess you need some kind of servo to raise and lower the pen, just copy whatever other projects use.
LM8UU bearings go around 8mm shafts, you can buy the shafts locally, or order from china, but the latter is much more expensive (though still not that bad). There also exist bearings with housing that are easier to mount, SBR8UU.
For belts just get some GT2 whatever, but make sure to check what belt layout you want to use, and that GRBL or whatever you end up using for control supports such a belt layout.
For PSU probably a simple wall plug with 12V 3A would be enough, maybe 5A. I think the NEMA17s can run comfortably at 1A for this application, maybe even less.

[Anonymous No.1760842]

>>1760841
it's so hard to chase low prices and still have quality tools

good luck to you poor bastards

[Anonymous No.1760888]

>>1760842
Most of the stuff usually comes pretty decent. The cheapest stepper motors always have some tiny dents in the mounting surface, but never anything that would make a difference for a 3D printer or the likes. Power adapters are always at least 50% overrated, sometimes 100% overrated. But that aside, the rest of the shit just werks.

[Anonymous No.1760900]

>taking inserts out of this tooling
>every single screw on these things is torqued to retard level tight
>no screws or holes fucked for some reason though

[Anonymous No.1760931]

>>1760900
>every t7 wrench at work is rounded off / twisted right to hell
>finally find one that isn't ruined
>breaks trying to replace turning insert

you would think that these guys could figure out that they don't need to be tightened that hard, right?

[Anonymous No.1760934]

>>1760931
for real

this grooving insert holder has the screw replaced with a regular hex socket head cap screw

[Anonymous No.1760945]

>>1759876
Not a machinist but just a peon operator. My work area has been changed and upgraded a lot. Got a robot that loads my two Okuma CNC lathes. Don't mind my job, but 1st shift is really pissing me off. Besides that this is the first job in a long time that I get to learn new stuff.

[Anonymous No.1760949]

>>1760900
>>1760931
Thats how its been lately at my job. Besides for one guy that covers for the 1st shift bitch. Fucker doesn't tighten the screws enough in the barrel drill and had the machine crashed or he will replace screws with what ever screw fits in the hole.

[Anonymous No.1761014]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PCooroR7_Y

pretty MTD lady talking about raw material

[Anonymous No.1761021]

>>1761014
She's reading from a prompter, watch her eyes dart.

[Anonymous No.1761033]

>>1761021
yeah well here's some GD&T I didn't know about

https://www.gdandtbasics.com/maximum-material-condition/

[Anonymous No.1761070]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcGHtI9Lql4

[Anonymous No.1761088]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G080VKBEOEo

here's what the small lathe guy should look for

[Anonymous No.1761097]

[Anonymous No.1761098]

>>1761097

[Anonymous No.1761100]

>>1761098
Some useful practice projects

[Anonymous No.1761215]

what's the difference between a mill turn and a lathe with live tooling?

[Anonymous No.1761224]

>>1761215
Horsepower and rigidity.

[Anonymous No.1761233]

>>1761224
which one is more?

[Anonymous No.1761243]

>>1761233
lol the mill-turn by a significant factor. Massive lathes might have live tooling on par with say, a Haas Minimill but most they're only good for drilling off center holes and light milling with small tools.

[Anonymous No.1761255]

so will this work for running in the steady rest or not? I already have some aluminum tubing so all I would have to do is drill the holes, or will it just get shit stuck in it and I should buy some steel?

[Anonymous No.1761277]

>>1761215
better milling on the mill-turn

[Anonymous No.1761307]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXVzoZ53p7A

[Anonymous No.1761308]

>>1761255
I don't know, but don't leave the heads of those bolts spinning around, it's very hazardous as it may grab you or something.

[Anonymous No.1761309]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOGuX_LL4NE

[Anonymous No.1761314]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKe_FcNJTs8

[Anonymous No.1761317]

Milling holder test, they all do pretty good and the operator will need to fiddle with them for reliability.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eedYZ8vrwJg

[Anonymous No.1761358]

I was the machinist for this CubeSat. It should launch soon too!

[Anonymous No.1761359]

>>1761358
I also was the machinist for this project, a suborbital payload on a sounding rocket. It went through a few iterations because the rocket didnt fly very well but it was atleast recovered two of the three times it flew.

[Anonymous No.1761360]

>>1761359
It was a pain in the ass working on it while we were at the launch site, so after the first launch I changed the outer wall to have a window. All the experiment trays are on springs so that when they hit microgravity they can free float, unfortunately that meant that when the payload is recovered they extend to full length during landing and so you have to make new spring mounts each time.

[Anonymous No.1761362]

>>1761360
The GoPros also sucked and dont work 95% of the time. Replaced then with picamera but to save time I just machined a block to mount the picams in that would go in the gopro mount

[Anonymous No.1761365]

>>1761362
This was when it was integrated into the payload section prior to launch 2

[Anonymous No.1761367]

>>1761365
And heres the ill fated third launch, the nosecone collapsed into the rocket and sent it tumbling and the parachute didnt deploy.

[Anonymous No.1761369]

>>1761367
And heres what's left. Sorry to post such a long series of posts. Wanted to share a some projects I was the machinist for and show the life cycle of them :)

[Anonymous No.1761379]

>>1761369
neat, thanks for posting.

[Anonymous No.1761384]

So uh, why does my CNC lathe have this trilobe metal piece screwed over the spindle bore?

I hope I can remove this to put stuff into the spindle...

I've never had a cnc lathe this thing is new to me.

[Anonymous No.1761385]

>>1761384
pic from coromant live turning video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C88bdiIthK8

[Anonymous No.1761386]

>>1761385
apparently if you reverse the feed direction and use more insert engagement you get better MRR on turning

[Anonymous No.1761390]

>>1761384
It's a protector plate covering some of the internals, it's removable by the three screws in front. Where I worked we made stoppers of various lengths that fit in there, it was very useful for shorter parts, especially for production.

If your putting a bar thru the barrel there should be a piece similar to pic related, stops some chips from getting in there, but you should disassemble, lube and clean out the chuck regularly because shit will find it's way in there.

[Anonymous No.1761403]

>>1761390
alrighty then

Won't have it powered until late this week or next week at least, I have an American Rotary AR-20 rotary phase converter, the spindle horsepower is like 20hp, I called American Rotary and they said I can hook up another 20hp unit with my existing one and put a new AD (cnc panel) on the old AR unit and have AD-40 similar capacity for $3,200 or so.

I could buy a 60hp unit for a little over $6,000 alternatively.

What is the reality of powering a lathe with less power available than required?

[Anonymous No.1761432]

>>1761403
Uh, you should double any phase converter for cnc. If your lathe is a 20hp you buy a 40hp. Also, AD is their cnc line.

[Anonymous No.1761480]

>>1761432
yeah i know, just trying to power the main spindle and the subspindle and the servos at the moment

I suspect it would work with limited rapids, etc. with the 20hp setup.

[Anonymous No.1761482]

>>1761480
Sorry, not the subspindle, the live tools.

[Anonymous No.1761483]

>>1761308
if you take the heads off how will you adjust them? anyway I almost brained myself with this kind of bolt clamped in a fixture.

[Anonymous No.1761485]

>>1761483
thick wall tubing and flush set screws

probably cheaper to drill a bit hole in a piece of billet rod

[Anonymous No.1761511]

>>1761480
Uh, you might get it to turn on but it probably won't run live tools or the spindle very fast.

[Anonymous No.1761553]

>>1761511
Yeah I think I'm gonna have to actually do stuff or something.

[Anonymous No.1761555]

>>1761553
This turret is much bigger in person.

[Anonymous No.1761558]

>>1761555
whew look at those pretty pink nubile fingers just waiting to get moon dust chips all fucking stuck in them

[Anonymous No.1761563]

>>1761558
Try taking the center plate off the chuck, Im curious if it's just an insert in there or a solid piece.

[Anonymous No.1761566]

>>1761563
eh it's breaktime, in a few minutes I'll try to.

[Anonymous No.1761575]

>>1761558
Looks like mine, A2-8

[Anonymous No.1761582]

>>1761575
Yep I believe that's what it is.

Kitagawa

I took the little cap off and cleaned and oiled the area.

[Anonymous No.1761595]

>>1760836
I call it a pin bracket. others call it all sorts of other names. I used these brackets all the time in designs. Some pneumatic cylinder company had a lot that worked out nice. I just do Misumi for everything now though so i forgot the name of the cylinder company.

[Anonymous No.1761598]

>>1761582
Bison 4 jaw chucks can be found for decently cheap on fleabay. Just gotta get new jaws for them. Also, make sure your main breaker to the shop can accommodate the increased power consumption. 200A is what my breaker box is rated at and I know for certain that I cannot power more than my converter and lathe on just that alone. So you may have to have the power company run another box out to your shop. Shit gets expensive real quick.

[Anonymous No.1761602]

>>1761598
Yeah I know. What kind of phase converter do you have powering your stuff?

[Anonymous No.1761604]

I wonder if anyone on here would be interested in some secondhand DRO + scales?

[Anonymous No.1761641]

So what is this thing for? Or rather, what is the positive effect of regulating the oil temperature?

I assume this is for hydraulic oil?

[Anonymous No.1761650]

>>1761641
I guess it could be for coolant. Might need to figure out what kind of liquid that is in there.

[Anonymous No.1761652]

>>1761641
>>1761650
hmmm

the coolant flows through the live tool blocks, maybe keeping the coolant cold extends the lifespan of the live tooling?

[Anonymous No.1761714]

>>1761602
Anderson, one from 94. They're not even in business anymore.

[Anonymous No.1761862]

>>1761403
Just get a big ass 3 phase motor from the locals or some shit and make your own phase converter.

Also most of the vfd's / stepper drivers can be wired to single phase, check inside your cnc you may be able to convert it and not have to deal with it.

[Anonymous No.1761863]

>>1761604
Yes actually.

[Anonymous No.1761865]

>>1761863
They're knee mill sized, anilam I believe.

I might go get some measurements on it in the morning for you.

[Anonymous No.1761866]

>>1761863
X and Y axis, I think the Y axis is 2 tenths resolution and the X is half a thou.

[Anonymous No.1761875]

>>1761865
Awesome, let me know. Post some details, I'm sure I can rustle up something you could use of similar value to trade.

[Anonymous No.1761876]

>>1761875
nah I need cold hard cash

$650 obo

[Anonymous No.1761882]

>>1761876
If you need cash, throw it on ebay, post the link maybe I'll buy it. Not doing a cash deal over 4chan.

[Anonymous No.1761883]

>>1761882
Yeah that was the plan.

Looking around at other options for converters now. This place doesn't have a youtube presence nor the circuit boards in the cabinet of an American Rotary.

Thoughts?

http://www.cromanconverters.com/New-100hp-Cnc-Balanced-3-Phase-Rotary-Converter-_p_49.html

[Anonymous No.1761896]

>>1761883
So you can do a real chincy phase converter by forcing a large 3ph motor to run on a single phase, its other phases will parasitically create voltage. It won't auto start and will run rough (premature bearing wear). It can be ultra cheap as large 3 phase motors can be acquired for scrap prices. You can get auto start and balance the output with capacitors. Some commercial rotary phase converters work like this.

Another method would be to hook up a large single phase motor to spin a three phase motor which is actually a generator in this configuration. In the capacities you are looking for finding a large enough single phase motor is the hardest part for this.

A VFD or digital phase converter would be cheaper than a rotary phase converter in the capacities your looking for. But beware some of the cheapest ones are, well cheap. They may not last as long as you expect.

But what I'm willing to bet is the case your CNC spindle driver is just a VFD and you can probably get a single phase version that would be a drop in replacement. Get 80% of your load off the three phase and on to single phase directly. Then you can keep your current phase converter to power the rest of the machine.

[Anonymous No.1761902]

>>1761896
too much electrical bullshit to worry about to mess with all the VFDs, it needs to be rotary and eventually I'll just have the electric company run 3-phase.

[Anonymous No.1761903]

>>1761896
I like phase perfect stuff in garage shops because amperage you get out is what you put in, then I'm saving time and money by not having to pay to get more power. They ain't fucking cheap though

[Anonymous No.1761904]

>>1761903
I'm looking at this thing: https://www.phoenixphaseconverters.com/Shop/phoenix-phase-converters-75-hp-yes-230.html

[Anonymous No.1761906]

>>1761904
American Rotary offers financing.

[Anonymous No.1761908]

Yep, I think I'm going to need to sell a couple tractors to pay for a forklift and converter setup.

>>1761906
I would probably elect to go with the local bank for a loan depending on the rates, I guess it could be a good way to build some credit.

[Anonymous No.1762026]

>139 amps
>48kva rated power

The 3 main wires are 1/0 gauge and the ground is 4/0 gauge.

[Anonymous No.1762057]

>>1761650
Either hydraulic or way oil, definitely not coolant. Not an expert on why a temp regulator is needed but I imagine it's to reduce the chance of it spontaneously igniting.

[Anonymous No.1762063]

>>1761485
what kind of steel would be the cheapest and easiest to machine while still having enough wear resistance?

[Anonymous No.1762065]

>>1762063
You know you can usually replace the brass pads right? Modify it to use rollers and use whatever you want. Don't know if aluminum will be rigid enough, would probably need to be thicker than a steel part. A plain old steel tube is probably enough.

[Anonymous No.1762116]

https://www.okuma.com/shop-matters-ep-7-coolant-and-connectivity

Okuma has their own podcast series about machining stuff. Sweet.

[Anonymous No.1762143]

>3000 part order
>3 day runtime if both shifts run at 100%
>Barfeeder, 600 Pcs per bar, sub spindle with part conveyor
>Literally just stand there and measure every 10th part
>Browse 4chan for 10 hours straight at work
>Nothing to do at home now
I bitch when I have to prototype/program and I bitch when I button push for 4 days straight. Maybe I just like to bitch, maybe I don't love this trade

[Anonymous No.1762147]

>>1762143
>Maybe I just like to bitch, maybe I don't love this trade
I got to that point, came in to work pissed and left work infuriated. That's why i went back to school to become a drafter, I wonder if I'll enjoy desk work.

[Anonymous No.1762149]

>>1762143
If you have good credit you could always try real estate.

[Anonymous No.1762180]

>>1762143
Working sucks, no matter what.

[Anonymous No.1762183]

This is the tool setup i will use tomorrow morning. Need to tap a 3/4 - 14 NPT at the bottom of a tall wall in the part. What do you think. Will it explode?

[Anonymous No.1762190]

>>1762143
Picture of the part please?

Why does this thread have so few pictures of machined parts and processes.

[Anonymous No.1762194]

>>1762190
Do you know what confidentiality is? Also, I don't think anyone here wants to be doxed.

[Anonymous No.1762206]

>>1762194

>a picture of a machined part
>no mention of customer
>no reference to the machine shop
>no blueprints
>just a picture of a machined part

Maybe I'm retarded, but how would this get someone doxxed, or busted for violating confidentiality?

[Anonymous No.1762217]

>>1762206
The probability of getting shit is probably close to null, but i wouldn't do it. All it takes is for one of your co workers to lurk here and recognize the work environment or piece, and for him to tattle on you.

You have to be real careful what you post on here, I've seen anons cannibalize other anons for shits and giggles. Reverse image search is your enemy.

[Anonymous No.1762247]

>>1761641
unless you got some hydraulics going on like clamping or something, its most likely a spindle cooler. extend lifespan of tool and keeps the spindle thermally stable

>>1761883
>>1761902
here is the inside of my rotary phase converter for my thing, mine is only 5hp, but im just powering some 750w servos at 220v. the biggest slap in the face to the whole 3phase experience was that my 3phase servo drivers convert 3phase into 2 phase, and then back into 3 phase, but i digress. i paid $1100 cad through a source(homie) at work, but they were listed for $4000. knowing now whats inside the panel, i would have just bought the starting unit and sourced the motor separately. knowing what i know now, i would go a different route because everytime i boot my thing on, even when im doing control related shit like parameters or programs, or setting it up and debugging/repairs (its p old) i need to run the phase converter,big ol 5hp motor just spinnin, so if i spend the whole day just working on the control unit, my mom flips because it sends the hydro bill though the roof. the control unit doesnt take 3 phase either, unless you can get 3phase hydro at a good rate, id suggest doing a single phase vfd for the spindle like the other guy suggested

>>1762194
>>1762217
oh la la mr professional. i cant argue with any of your logic or reasons but yeah this is 4chan dont be a fag

[Anonymous No.1762257]

>>1762217
Retarded schitzo mentality. This board isn't /pol/
>>1762190
If I remember tomorrow I'll take a pic. It's just a simple coupling press pin out of 304. Has something to do with futuristic AI robot that will do grocery shopping for us when we place online orders. Apparently these will become as common as ATM machines and self check outs in the next 20 years.

[Anonymous No.1762266]

>>1762257
Last summer my shop was involved in creating a prototype land crawling killer robot. Literally a miniature tank with modular mounting system capable of accommodating different arrays of cameras, communications equipment and weapons. Small and light enough for a single guy to throw it through a window, and it self rights and can go up and down stairs with its tracks.

I have mixed feelings about being involved in it...

[Anonymous No.1762292]

>>1762247
>3phase servo drivers convert 3phase into 2 phase, and then back into 3 phase

You sure about that, I'm far more familiar with them converting it to dc then back to 3phase, but this is not normal 3 phase because the hz and sometimes the voltage goes all over the place.

2 phase is barley a real thing at all, and even if it did convert to 2 phase you could not skip that step because residential wiring is single phase not 2 phase.

2 phase should not be confused with split phase which is also a thing.

[Anonymous No.1762295]

>>1762194
I've worked at places that would really really care if you took pictures, like fire you on the spot cared but we delt with shit that was itar controlled and worse; but other places I have worked that literally would give no shits.

So what if you dox someones post, this is not reddit we don't have a posting history you can tie it into. Unless they are a trip fag, in which case fuck em.

[Anonymous No.1762320]

Why the FUCK can I not stop breaking #4-40 spiral flute plug taps when running at 200RPM (~5sfm)? (with flood coolant)
I'm back to forming taps but they always seem to leave a high spot around the thread.

[Anonymous No.1762322]

>>1762320
>synchro/rigid tapping spindle issues
>hole size/shape
>coolant concentration
>hitting bottom of hole
>maybe try a peck tapping cycle

Maybe go with a bigger chamfer to "hide" the high spot spot around the thread with form taps?

[Anonymous No.1762328]

>>1762322
I can eliminate all of those. I know the machine (DM2) isn't having spindle problems, my coolant is 8% Blaser 755, the holes are thru. Never tried peck tapping. With a spiral tap it shouldn't be necessary.
My 1/4-20 spiral tap works a treat, and I use those in hand drills too.
And yes, right now, my solution is to liberally chamfer the hole before running the tap through. It works, but I'd like to understand why the spiral taps broke.

[Anonymous No.1762330]

>>1762328
Hole size?

Spiral point or spiral flute? If you have a through-hole, you want spiral point (not spiral flute).

[Anonymous No.1762337]

>>1762183
lol wtf

no one knows

[Anonymous No.1762339]

>>1762190
>Why does this thread have so few pictures of machined parts and processes.

can't show it off anon... customer's business is more important than internet friends

>>1762247
there's actually hydraulics for two spindles and probably something else too.

can't do single phase vfd because this machine is pretty well optioned out, bells and whistles (I think). the american rotary converters have a bunch of circuit boards in them, what's the deal with that?

>>1762328
tap runout? using a special tap holder or something?

[Anonymous No.1762340]

>>1762292
by 2 phase i meant single phase

[Anonymous No.1762351]

>>1762190
If I post what I work on I can be sued, or if it's my own design the design could be stolen by chinks and poos.

It's just a double edged sword to post pics of any jobs these days

[Anonymous No.1762353]

>>1762330
spiral flute, but I tap closed-end holes just as often.
Drilled #43 for the cutting tap, #38 for the forming tap. As recommended.
>tap runout? using a special tap holder or something?
I didn't think to try to measure the runout. I had it in a regular spring collet, not a tap holder.

[Anonymous No.1762361]

10% off american rotary code "Vintage10" courtesy of keith rucker

[Anonymous No.1762372]

>>1762339
>the american rotary converters have a bunch of circuit boards in them, what's the deal with that?

Well if it's actually a rotary phase converter then the circuit boards could be doing things like starter, stall detection, maybe pulling capacitors in and out of the circuit to try to keep things balanced.

You can do it with a digital phase converter or VFD and while it makes three phase from one it's not a rotary phase converter which by definition uses a spinning motor.

[Anonymous No.1762450]

>>1762190
Legal reasons mostly, especially if it's a job for the government. I've heard in one instance at a local machine shop workers weren't allowed to have their phones on them while a government job was in the shop.

[Anonymous No.1762517]

>>1762450
Yep, I used to work at a place, before I started my business, that did gov't contracts in molds and metal stamping supplies. If you had a phone, camera, or even those fitbit things on you, you were escorted out and fired. They would also seize your device and make you jump through hoops to get it back.

[Anonymous No.1762520]

>>1762353
Always hated spiral flute taps, never had luck with them in smaller sizes. How many holes are we talking?

[Anonymous No.1762544]

>>1762026
I hope you have enough service for all this or else you'll be running one machine at a time

[Anonymous No.1762547]

>>1762544
Yeah I'm aware that I need another panel as well.

Luckily some bills are coming due and I will actually have enough money to do this.

[Anonymous No.1762578]

>>1762544
>tfw the lathe is probably better at milling than the mill is

[Anonymous No.1762672]

>>1762578
Your other machine is a >tormach right?

[Anonymous No.1762708]

>>1762672
yeah, got a knee mill, a couple manual lathes and a surface grinder too tho.

[Anonymous No.1762750]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WGQ6zOYT-Y

[Anonymous No.1762783]

>>1762520
>Always hated spiral flute taps, never had luck with them in smaller sizes.
So I guess it's typical then.
Oh well, for now I'll stick to forming taps for small sizes. I was hopeful, I thought spiral taps were based after the first time I used one in a hand drill to bang out dozens of 1/4-20 holes in the ends of T-slot rails.
This particular part had 14 4-40 tapped holes, the spiral flute taps broke on the very first one. I think the most tapped holes I did in a part was 80 M2 holes, which I did with a spiral-point tap even though they were blind holes (it was all I could get on short notice).
I run a prototyping shop for an electronics R&D company. as you can probably tell I'm not a machinist by trade, I'm still somewhat new to CNC machining.

[Anonymous No.1762796]

>>1762783
spiral points are like the OP of taps

[Anonymous No.1762814]

>>1762796
>spiral flute plug taps
right? ive been using the same 5 taps for over a year

[Anonymous No.1762854]

>>1762814
i have a literal 5 gallon bucket of spiral point taps that I will probably never finish

[Anonymous No.1762879]

I need to make some screws but I don't know what material to order. should I use annealed 4140 or is some kind of mild steel enough? I'm guessing the screw should be softer than the stuff it's bolting together.

[Anonymous No.1762919]

>>1762879
screw or bolt?

screws are usually sort of hard, while garden variety bolts are softer steel (still plenty strong though).

grade 8 steel bolt would be 4140 heat treated (it doesn't get super hard, but harder than not)

[Anonymous No.1762954]

>>1762919
I guess it's more like a bolt. the original design had a screw that went through a housing and held a baseplate on, but I need to make something that will pass through the minor diameter of the id threads and then be threaded on the end for a nut so I can clamp more shit to the outside of the housing. would 1018 be too soft? I guess it also has to be hard enough so the head doesn't strip when I tighten it down, unless I case harden that part.

[Anonymous No.1763004]

>>1759876
God damn am I happy I got out of machining and became a bartender. Embraced my greatest failure and made it my greatest strength, instead of trying to get by on being more intelligent than everyone around me.

On a sidenote, to everyone who wants to be a machinist, just call up your local production shops. They almost always need someone, even if you aren't going to be a machinist day one. Work your way up, get your education, and kill the retards around you with a basic level of passion for your craft.

[Anonymous No.1763008]

>>1762954
well uh I don't know, does it need to be a grade 8 bolt?

[Anonymous No.1763018]

Does anyone have experience with metal 3d Printers? They are not that expensive anymore and seem to be cool for prototyping

[Anonymous No.1763031]

What's this "dynamic milling" buzzword?

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/manufacturing-engineering/taking-stainless-steel-machining-to-the-next-level/

Like HEM?

[Anonymous No.1763076]

>turning steel or aluminium
>nice tidy swarf

>turning brass
>get sandblasted with brass dust

Why lads ;(

[Anonymous No.1763078]

>>1762337
>>1762183

It worked out. Made a groaning sound on it's way OUT of the hole about .100 above where the spindle reversed rotation. Which I'm not sure I understand because being a tapered thread it shouldn't have been engaged in the material at all by that point. But the threads look good and fit well on a gauge so I guess I won't worry about that.

[Anonymous No.1763080]

>>1763076
The lathe guy at our shop just finished turning these 18" long x 4.5" dia. power leads for some cryogenic operation and the entire area he works in was turned into a sandbox for a few days. It really is something.

[Anonymous No.1763157]

I just noticed all the collet nuts for these Alps Tool live holders are the kind with a thrust bearing on the face. You can really torque these things down with less force and twisting action on the collet.

[Anonymous No.1763169]

>>1763157
Oh sweet the exact same design is available from maritool.

https://www.maritool.com/Tool-Holders-Spare-Parts-Collet-Nuts/c23_30_31/p1434/ER20-BEARING-COLLET-NUT/product_info.html

[Anonymous No.1763258]

>>1763004
I don't understand the first part of this post

[Anonymous No.1763267]

>>1763031

Had to look elsewhere for the answer, but it appears to be, simply, a feature that attempts to keep chip load as constant as possible.

An example would be milling a pocket with 1/2" radius corners with a 1" endmill. As the cutter mills away a straight line of material approaching the corner, it has a constant chipload and tool engagement. However, as it enters the corner, the tool engagement suddenly jumps from whatever it was during the approach. Over 90° of the tool's circumference (exact amount depends on stepover) is engaged in the material, radically altering chip formation.

Dynamic milling attempts to mitigate this by varying machining parameters (mostly stepover, I imagine) in order to keep tool engagement and chip formation more constant. Naturally, when you do this, you can step up your overall parameters for the operation, because you don't need as much of a safety margin to account for inconsistencies like the corner situation just described.

[Anonymous No.1763274]

>>1763267
so it's just a fusion 360 3d adaptive or at least shares a definition

[Anonymous No.1763298]

>>1763008
probably not. I ended up ordering annealed 4140 so hopefully it works out. I still don't know what to use for my steady rest spider thing though. 6" of 4" 4140 would be $140 not including shipping. the same of 1045 would be $70 plus shipping. I could also get 1020 pipe and save myself the boring for $86. should I just get the low carbon and try to case harden where the rollers will go?

[Anonymous No.1763300]

>>1763298
if they are actually rollers it should be fine either way

[Anonymous No.1763311]

>>1763300
I forgot it's actually the bronze studs. I'm mostly concerned that the bearing surface will get scratched or a chip will get stuck on it and ruin it.

[Anonymous No.1763312]

>>1763311
well just don't get a shirt sleeve caught on one of the screws

[Anonymous No.1763615]

Should I build my phase converter setup for small time shop machinery like 20hp max or big boy industrial shit like 30hp ?

The difference is a lot of extra cost.

[Anonymous No.1763641]

>>1763615
well shit nevermind, it's probably going to take another $10k to buy a digital converter

https://www.phasetechnologies.com/phase-conversion

at least the machine looks like it's worth it.

[Anonymous No.1763650]

>>1763641
Ask for financing ya gay.

[Anonymous No.1763716]

how much would it cost to get a job shop to make one of these? would I get a discount if I could submit g code instead of a shitty print?

[Anonymous No.1763729]

>>1763716

About tree fiddy.

Really, you don't even need a job shop, just find a guy with a lathe.

You're missing at least one dimension, though. The length of the 1/2-28 stub is missing.

[Anonymous No.1763733]

Also:

>>1763716
>would I get a discount if I could submit g code instead of a shitty print?

No, because most places would just use a manual machine for something that simple in the first place, unless you were making a lot of them. And, if you WERE making a lot of them, they sure as shit wouldn't want some random, untested code anywhere near their 5/6/7-figure machines. Never even mind the fact that you couldn't actually generate the code in the first place without knowing what controller/features are on the machine.

[Anonymous No.1763735]

>>1763716
>how much would it cost to get a job shop to make one of these?
Best way to find out is to ask estimates from local shops. 4140 isn't fun to work with and LH taps are expensive so I'd imagine they'd charge a premium.
>would I get a discount if I could submit g code instead of a shitty print?
I doubt they'd want to use code from some random guy off the street, they'd probably just make they're own considering different controllers have different M codes, thats if they don't do it on a conventional lathe. A drawing will help them more then code, trying to decipher the part from code is impossible.

Also, your missing a few lengths. It would be a lot easier to make if they only had to drill and tap instead of boring out and making the inner groove before the thread. The inner groove itself will be a big bitch and require a grooving boring bar which they may not have on hand.

[Anonymous No.1763754]

>>1763729
I was thinking about doing it myself, but I don't know if I can keep it in tolerance with the clapped out lathe I have. I would need to get an id grooving tool too.

>>1763735
can't just drill and tap because the part that screws into the big end seats on the interior shoulder.

[Anonymous No.1763810]

>>1763267
I used to run some big-ass kearny and trecker hmcs that had this feature, they called it "adaptive control". These machines were from the 80s, it's been around awhile

[Anonymous No.1763864]

>>1763735
You're forgetting that the thing is tiny.

9/16-24 LH internal thread lol

could buy a tap or a tiny solid carbide boring bar

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/05252275

You could do the CAM for it and send that along with it, but chances are they are using expensive software you dont' have.

Don't know how deep or wide that groove is, but one of these might work: https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/05250535?fromRR=Y

[Anonymous No.1763865]

>>1763754
>can't just drill and tap because the part that screws into the big end seats on the interior shoulder.

flat bottom drill?

[Anonymous No.1763874]

>>1763735
You can do that on a mill with end mills and a thread mill probably cheaper than on a lathe.

If only I had my live tool lathe powered...

[Anonymous No.1763875]

>>1763874
squint closely and you can see the remaining stock at the bottom of the hole with a normal drill point

next pic after cleanup with an end mill

[Anonymous No.1763877]

>>1763875

[Anonymous No.1763880]

>>1763877
I guess it might be hard to get the very end of the thread to terminate up against the flat bottom though, is the width of a normal thread mill or bottoming tap going to bring it close enough to the face to work?

[Anonymous No.1763886]

>>1763880

[Anonymous No.1763888]

>>1763886
Now do it on a mill turn and you have cheaper and better parts.

[Anonymous No.1763938]

>>1763880
well like I said the part with the left hand threads has to seat squarely against the internal shoulder since there's no other way to make sure it's all the way on

[Anonymous No.1763943]

>>1763938
It looks like it will..

[Anonymous No.1763982]

>>1763938
Well either way, it's not a problem. Just a little groove to machine, and you can do that with a HSS woodruff cutter.

[Anonymous No.1763986]

>>1763888
and the lathe just makes roughing most of the material more cost effective, thru tool coolant on a cheap insert drill or something will make it last forever and the OD profiling and parting is stupid cheap insert cost wise compared to an end mill.

Od threading with insert cheap too, and I can pull the bar after making just one to make a million of these things from one longer bar.

Want any engraving or cross drilled holes? Live tool lathe will take care of it.

[Anonymous No.1763996]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7VH3suYMTgA

I think ave has finally lost his mind.

[Anonymous No.1764002]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2uCW5AHwQCM

[Anonymous No.1764056]

sweet

[Anonymous No.1764145]

>>1763996
>posting AVE in a machinist thread
>posting AVE on /diy/

I think YOU have lost your mind. Whatever he is doing in that video I wont click, its all for shock value because he ran out of content a week into his patreon phase.

[Anonymous No.1764158]

>>1764056
that big caliper thing is the brake for the C axis

[Anonymous No.1764159]

>>1764145
Why don't you like him anon?

[Anonymous No.1764162]

>>1764159
>he ran out of content a week into his patreon phase

[Anonymous No.1764163]

>>1764162
I thought you could elaborate, like how he doesn't know what he's doing or his retard speak.

[Anonymous No.1764179]

>>1764163
Not him, but he is just not as good as he used to be. He doesn't make cool shit or even do tool teardowns anymore.

He just posts about his cnc mill and then makes useless shit on it. I mean c'mon, the least he could do is make some decent stuff like better tools or even put his money where his mouth is and make a "skookum" impact or something that isn't shit. Kind of like abom
At least TOT is still quality these days.

[Anonymous No.1764181]

>>1764179
Here maybe this is more your speed

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6fUCApr03g

[Anonymous No.1764189]

>>1764181
TOT is This Old Tony. Tony is great, editing is always above par, jokes are dad tier funny, and knowledge is kept within his realm of expertise. Just great all the way round. I don't like his fixing stuff videos as much but at least he makes them much more tolerable and informative.

[Anonymous No.1764194]

>>1761369
o7 real cool

[Anonymous No.1764199]

>>1763982
ok but I can't threadmill on a bridgeport

[Anonymous No.1764203]

>>1764199
Threadmill is more expensive than a little bar anyway.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/00795138

[Anonymous No.1764204]

>>1764189
This Old Tony would turn to garbage too if he was obligated to pump videos out to patrons. Luckily he cares about the quality of his videos.

[Anonymous No.1764216]

>>1764204
Exactly, he should stay the way he is.

[Anonymous No.1764223]

>>1764203
I think I have a tool that can do the threading. I would need an id grooving tool though. how do you single point id threads on a manual machine though? do you just look at the dro and stomp the brake when it gets to the end? or should I try the meme where you run the spindle in reverse and thread outwards?

[Anonymous No.1764227]

>>1764223
yes reverse is not a meme

hell it's a left handed thread anyway, you put the threading tool all the way to the face and feed out

[Anonymous No.1764234]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X88NLYB7-fo

edge precision

[Anonymous No.1764255]

>>1764227
so put it right side up facing away from me and then run the spindle clockwise and the leadscrew left to right?

[Anonymous No.1764259]

>>1764255
yeah I think so

[Anonymous No.1764260]

>>1764255
wait it's a left handed thread, same as threading normal-ways just with the lead screw going the other direction I think

[Anonymous No.1764446]

>>1764223
>>1764255
>>1764260

you run the spindle in the same direction as always, otherwise your tool wont cut. you flip the feed leaver., now your tool will be threading away from the part. reversing ther spindle isnt a maymay, its the least retarded way to do it, that way you dont fuck up your threading position. you just move off the part on the spindle reverse path so you dont rub.

[Anonymous No.1764562]

dog finally died, the problem started with some chinese made dog food.

"gravy train" fucking bullshit dogfood

Don't buy simple medicines on amazon, even for your dog, it's the #1 place Chicoms peddle counterfeits.

[Anonymous No.1764570]

>>1764562
My aunts dog died of renal failure from eating cheap Iams food. Its was a long drawn out process which was sad, he was a really good dog.
I have only fed my cats and dog higher end food because of it.
Even then, I was buying the twice as expensive Nutro cat food. Was fine for months, new bag and my cats puked and dry heaved for 2 days straight. The food ended up being part of a recall.
The reality is, dog and cat food is absolute garbage and the problems happen with the best brands too.

As much as its a weird millennial thing, there is something to be said about feeding your animals fresh food.

[Anonymous No.1764573]

the god of /diy/tards
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vB_FvkllLPc

[Anonymous No.1764580]

This guy is a hobbyist, first guy to CNC the Precision Matthews PM-727.

He is building his second one right now, using linear rails. Its pretty neat
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SuIMhvhA1w

[Anonymous No.1764590]

I've got to turn some real simple aluminum parts for a uni club project, i've watched plenty of machining related youtube videos but i can totally recognize that they were mainly for entertainment purposes, any quick and dirty basics of lathe work video you'd recommend?

[Anonymous No.1764602]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGKc8DeM1NA

damn this first lathe vid is crazy

[Anonymous No.1764604]

>>1764590
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pn9HJfy33eA

[Anonymous No.1764607]

>>1764604
Compared to making code for CNC that seems really simple, i doubt i'll have any issues.

[Anonymous No.1764625]

This isn't exactly a machining question, but a machinist might know.
I was testing some sheet metal with a magnet and found it was barely magnetic, definitely some kind of stainless. But the bends were significantly more magnetic than the rest of the sheet. At first I thought each bend was actually a weld, but that can't be, it doesn't make sense.
Does bending always change the magnetic properties of stainless steel? Why?

[Anonymous No.1764627]

>>1764625
Steel loses its magneticness when its annealed to a certain point, makes it soft and malleable.

The work hardening of bending of soft sheet metal probably brings it back.

[Anonymous No.1764641]

ToT made an espresso maker?

How did I miss this video?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMrlyEreba8

[Anonymous No.1764643]

>>1764580
I thank my lucky stars I'm not stuck fixing chinese import stuff.

Just Japanese import stuff which is much nicer.

[Anonymous No.1764644]

>>1764604
The last ChuckE video I saw about lathes, he didnt understand how a tailstock worked.
Literal retard.

[Anonymous No.1764645]

>>1764644
it's not him giving the advice, just a fab shop/welder with a lathe he uses from time to time

[Anonymous No.1764662]

>>1764625
>What is sectional density
There's more material in a smaller area in the bends.

[Anonymous No.1764669]

>>1763031
HEM is high axial, low radial stepovers vs traditional low axial, high radial. Dynamic milling is a type of toolpath in CAM programs that keeps cutter engagement consistent no matter the part feature so you can use higher feedrates without having to worry about snapping the tool as it goes into a corner because it will take the corner in several cuts.
Pic related is a rough example of a dynamic toolpath. Notice that there's never any real straight lines and no sharp corners. 95% of the lines that look straight are the tool back feeding through air to position into the next cut. The load on the tool is more or less unchanged throughout the whole toolpath so if a feedrate works in one spot it will work the same anywhere.

[Anonymous No.1764671]

>>1764669
Here's a more traditional toolpath to achieve the same end result. Now there's lots of straight lines and sharp corners, meaning that tool load bounces up and down all over the place and you need to run a feed rate that works in the worst conditions meaning you need to slow down all the easy cutting too unless you want to dick with high speed calculators to calculate feeds for all the corners and straights.

[Anonymous No.1764678]

How crazy would it be to put a forming tool in a vertical mill's spindle, and use M19 to cut an internal spline one tooth at a time?
I'm guessing it's bad for the spindle bearings.

[Anonymous No.1764682]

>>1764678
people do that all the time, it can't be that bad for it.

[Anonymous No.1764683]

>>1764671
>>1764669
So probably another name for "adaptive clearing" toolpaths.

[Anonymous No.1764684]

>>1764682
>people do that all the time
I had no idea. is there a name for that?

[Anonymous No.1764686]

>>1764684
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=reErqhcUE7g

https://www.cncbroachtools.com/

[Anonymous No.1764690]

I still don't get broaching. is it basically like using a chisel?

[Anonymous No.1764697]

>>1764690
like using a shaper

[Anonymous No.1764699]

>>1764686
Woah, neat. I had no idea this was common practice. I came up with it and thought it was probably a dumb idea, but now I'm definitely going to try it.
"A 1/8 wide sharp cutter in a bridgeport spindle will easily take a thou per pass with just minimal pressure on the quill handle. Like less than drilling with a 3/8” drill bit pressure." This makes perfect sense to me. taking small passes the forces would be far too low to distress the bearings at all.
Now I wonder if a real spindle brake is required, or if the VFD's electric braking is enough. When I M19 the spindle, I can rotate it a couple of degrees by hand and feel the motor react.
But I guess as long as the tool is ground flat, there won't be any rotational force on the spindle at all.

[Anonymous No.1764703]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zhkv-YjNdbw

[Anonymous No.1764754]

>>1764690
If you had 20 chisels, first chisel being small with the rest slowly cascading up into the final size, then yeah like a chisel.

[Anonymous No.1764766]

>>1764683
It's what MasterCAM calls it

[Anonymous No.1764767]

>>1764678
Rough it as close as you can and it'll be fine.

[Anonymous No.1764771]

>>1763031
>>1764669
>>1764683
>>1764766
>dynamic milling
>high speed milling
>high efficiency milling
>adaptive toolpath milling
Yeah it's all the same idea, just different names from different CAM softwares and shit.

[Anonymous No.1764808]

Hey /diy/ I come for help

I am working on a firing pin assembly for a cosplay rifle (AR2 from Half-Life 2) and have found a bit of a problem with my design. In the game the firing pin moves horizontally like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CPnmCaO568E

Currently I am using a solenoid to dive the firing pin directly, but this only gives me a stroke length of 40mm (at the limit of using a solenoid). The problem is that I need the stroke length to be at least double that (80-100mm). So, the question is, would yous know of a good way to mechanically amplify the linear motion? So far, I am thinking of using a rack & pinion combination like this https://i.imgur.com/VUa14gc.jpg

I have thought of using linear motors or servos but the issue is that they won't give me the speed or thump I am after

[Anonymous No.1764817]

>>1764808
not really an expert but the first thing i thought of when seeing the motion you required was a cam but i discarded the idea because the motion range is limited by the eccentricity. The other thing i thought of was the crankshaft/connecting rod/piston system of a motor. Unfortunately it's still bound by geometry but if you can fit a 100+ mm gear in the chassis you could power it with a small electric motor and convert the rotation into linear motion. It'd also save you the hassle of inverting the rotation to go back to the start. There'd still be the whole plastic friction, but maybe you could get away with it using nylon/teflon.

[Anonymous No.1764819]

>>1764808
Bigger solenoid?

[Anonymous No.1764823]

>>1764819
Don't have a lot of space to work with

[Anonymous No.1764880]

>>1764808
mount the part you need to go farther to a spring instead of the charging handle?

[Anonymous No.1764895]

>>1764808
>Currently I am using a solenoid
Oh no, nonononono. ATF regulates electronic triggers and electronic activated triggers.
Please, if you do decide to keep the solenoid do NOT take this to a public range.

[Anonymous No.1764896]

>>1760131
>Drill
Freehand grind on a bench grinder
>Endmill
With an angle grinder
(I may make an endmill grinding attachment for my surface grinder vise if I have time)

[Anonymous No.1764899]

>>1764808
use a motor to drive a pully system instead

[Anonymous No.1764909]

>>1764895
why would someone bring a cosplay prop rifle to a firing range?

[Anonymous No.1764936]

>>1764909
I am a retard. I didn't read the post fully.

[Anonymous No.1764948]

>>1764808
make it use a compressed air cylinder

[Anonymous No.1764954]

>>1764808
ever heard of levers?

[Anonymous No.1764979]

>>1764771
HEM is something totally different.

[Anonymous No.1764986]

what gdt do you use if you need the centerline of a feature to be within a certain deviation from the centerline of another feature?

[Anonymous No.1764990]

>>1764986
Concentricity or true position depending on the actual geometry.

[Anonymous No.1765029]

>>1764979
explain

[Anonymous No.1765039]

>>1765029
HEM is just a specific ratio of stepdown to stepover that lets you run tools faster due to physics shit. High depth of cut, usually up to 2xD but with very small stepover, .1xD or even less.
Dynamic milling is what I explained above, it keeps the tool load constant with nice curving toolpaths and prevents the tool from going into corner cuts that raise tool load.
High speed machining is a step down, the second pic I posted is a high speed toolpath. It will clear material more efficiently than a standard pocketing toolpath but it creates lots of sharp corners for the tool to enter so it requires lots of feed rate adjustments throughout the program to keep tools from breaking.
I'm not sure what adaptive clearing is but I imagine it's either high speed or dynamic.

[Anonymous No.1765047]

>>1765039
>>1765029
Alright I looked up adaptive clearing. Seems to be what F360 calls Dynamic Milling.

[Anonymous No.1765130]

is there a fixture that's like a screw jack that I can clamp to the mill table and also has a v block clamp kind of thing at the top?

>>1765039
there's also high feed milling that uses indexable tooling and tries to limit rapids

[Anonymous No.1765146]

>>1765130
>there's also high feed milling that uses indexable tooling and tries to limit rapids
That's not exactly correct. There's solid carbide High-Feed mills too and it's not about limiting rapids. The geometry of the tooling allows for far greater cutter stability and in conjunction with high RPM spindles, allows high feed rates even in extremely tough or hard materials.
If you know what you're doing, there should be very few rapid movements in any milling toolpath unless the geometry is just insane.

[Anonymous No.1765239]

I have access to a HASS VNC-VF2

Aluminum cylinder bar stock 2.5 D

Bar stock is held horizontally, like a lathe in a 3 Chuck while Z travels vertically.

Guys have any ideas what I should make to sell?

[Anonymous No.1765245]

>>1765239
>HASS VNC-VF2
Are you sure you actually know how to use it?

[Anonymous No.1765273]

>>1765245
As much as any amateur, why do you ask?

[Anonymous No.1765274]

>>1765273
You didn't even spell it right.

[Anonymous No.1765275]

>>1765274
HAAS damn typo

[Anonymous No.1765276]

>>1765275
You called it a "VNC" too, it's "VMC" vertical milling center.

[Anonymous No.1765278]

>>1765275
Lol, anyway. You should make engraved furry art and sell it to furfags and also make emblems and sell them to retards

>Ford wants $45 for the emblem on the front grill after accident
>retarded friend buys it

[Anonymous No.1765309]

>>1765278
>>1765278
resale value bruh, he will easily clear that $45 back

[Anonymous No.1765388]

>>1764895
>>1764909
Fug, I better hide from the cosplay police then ;^)

>>1764880
Interesting idea, if the firing pin has enough mass then it might work. Will have to try it out, thanks anon

>>1764899
Don't really have enough space

>>1764948
Yea that's one way, but then I would also need to get a compressor and a tank. But I don't think I have enough room for either

>>1764954
Nah.avi

[Anonymous No.1765393]

>>1764808
rack+pinion can work, but you may want a 3-gear configuration depending on how much room you have.

A simple linkage can also increase range of motion but will need more room and support to make sure the things going straight will stay straight.

[Anonymous No.1765639]

>>1764986
Runout

[Anonymous No.1765689]

>>1765639
No

[Anonymous No.1765704]

>>1765689
Could be, the original question is pretty vague. Without knowing the actual geometry of the part or why the tolerance is needed in the first place there's no definite answer.

[Anonymous No.1765705]

>>1765704
He said he wants one centerline to be controlled to a different centerline. Runout doesn't control that no matter what the part feature is.

[Anonymous No.1765707]

>>1764986
You need to be a lot more specific than that, how do these center lines relate to each other, whhat sort of deviation do you mean? Do these center lines need to be parallel with each other? Perpendicular? Is it the same center line? How will this deviation affect the function of the part?

Gd&t is a complicated subject and the devil is in the details. If you're sending a print to a shop and telling them to make the part to print you DO NOT to have the wrong geometric tolerance specified.

[Anonymous No.1765721]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DvhuwqPxkmg

[Anonymous No.1765726]

>>1765707
>If you're sending a print to a shop and telling them to make the part to print you DO NOT to have the wrong geometric tolerance specified.
Funny because that has happened a few times with the retards blaming us for shoddy work when it's their retarded diversity hire engineer. They refuse to pay, then we sue, and then they pay. Just all around idiots. I swear if we had to pick jobs by the quality of drawings we receive then we would make almost nothing

[Anonymous No.1765728]

>>1765726
>.001" true position for dowel holes on a part that just crimps the wire around the bag they put whole chicken and shit in
>Everything else +-.005
Yeah how about fuck off.

[Anonymous No.1765730]

>>1765726
>>1765728
rrreeee stop making we want to get back to work the electric company engineer won't be here until wednesday

fucking $10,000 phaseperfect based converter or running 3-phase from the road over to my little shack

[Anonymous No.1765767]

>>1765707
basically I want the centerlines to be coaxial. say you have a pipe that threads onto another pipe and you need them to be in line so a shaft that fits through the first one won't rub the walls of the second at any point along its length.

[Anonymous No.1765769]

>>1765767
concentric

[Anonymous No.1765781]

>>1765780

NEW THREAD

>>1765780
>>1765780

[Anonymous No.1765897]

>>1765767
Is the shaft going to be rotating or stationary? What is the clearance of the pipe and shaft? And what kind of tolerance?

[Anonymous No.1765900]

>>1765769
No, not unless the 2 axis are part of the same part and share the same center line. If it's between 2 different parts concentricity isn't applicable.