Toilet tank not filling

[Anonymous No.1755602]

Hey guys, I consulted google but it didn't help cause I ain't got a float ball. Bear with me cause I'm clueless with this stuff, but the back of my toilet wont refill. There seems to be two problems. 1. The red thing at the bottom of the tank isnt stopping water unless it is carefully placed in the absolute correct position. 2. The black thing's water supply to the tank is very slow. Also I turned off the water to the tank but the black thing kept dripping. What do?

[Anonymous No.1755604]

And I should note, I just turned off the water to the toilet and it still wont stop running. Also the water from the black thing, the float I believe, isnt going through the fill tube into the little overflow pipe. The fill tube isnt producing a drop of water. The only water going into the tank comes from a small drip off the arm of the float near the fill tube, like the fill tube is leaking.

[Anonymous No.1755643]

>>1755602
Replace both, you already know what you have to do. Should cost $20 for the pair.

You have water everywhere else, right? In other words, it’s not a frozen pipe, correct?

[Anonymous No.1755733]

>>1755643
Ya, I got water everywhere else, and aight cool. Got a rec for a kit or something to replace it all? I'm murrican if it makes difference.
Thanks for the info btw man

[Anonymous No.1755738]

>>1755733
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fluidmaster-400A-Universal-Toilet-Fill-Valve-400ARP25/100554467
6 dollars us

[Anonymous No.1756562]

Pay your water bill Tyrone...

[Anonymous No.1756619]

Probably scaled up. Just buy a new flapper and flush assembly.

[Anonymous No.1757269]

>>1755602
2. You could have a bad shutoff valve. Washer disintegrating clogs the line and slows the fill. Also won't shut off completely.
>I'm clueless with this stuff
I was going to walk you through replacing the shutoff valve. But perhaps a plumber or friend with plumbing skills would be better. So as not to burn the house down sweating a pipe or flood it when something breaks.

[Anonymous No.1757285]

disassemble everything and wash lime out of valve and parts. In the process try to recreate the process that make it function and watch for things with missing parts.

[Anonymous No.1757286]

>>1755738

hahahahaha, our firm pays £38, or $49 each for those

[Anonymous No.1757301]

You'll need a closed coupling kit, pictured
a syphon that isn't retarded
another one of those fill valves they're pretty good
the tools to get those two rusty bolts out
to find the stop tap if the isolation valve to the fill valve isn't working

[Anonymous No.1757306]

not sure what kind of handle you've got goin on there, does it come out of a hole on the side of the cistern or sorta pivot on top the rim.

[Anonymous No.1757312]

ere

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fluidmaster-PerforMAX-Universal-2-in-High-Performance-Complete-Toilet-Repair-Kit-400ARHRKP10/206478491

[Anonymous No.1757925]

>>1757312
>https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fluidmaster-PerforMAX-Universal-2-in-High-Performance-Complete-Toilet-Repair-Kit-400ARHRKP10/206478491

I have rebuilt a few toilets. It is not for the feint of heart and takes some skill though not a lot. Just replace the fill valve with a new one and make damn sure you replace this...
https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-3-8-in-Compression-x-7-8-in-Ballcock-Nut-x-16-in-Braided-Polymer-Toilet-Connector-B1-16DL-F/203139191

[Anonymous No.1757973]

my flap is old, and i cant find a replacement anywhere.
i tried gluing a larger one on, but it didnt last long
i like the fucking toilet, and im not buying some cheap looking plastic thing.
any suggestions?