/3DPG/

[Anonymous No.1740868]

Itty bitty baby church edition


Old Thread >>1737578

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy

>Need help with prints? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 7-9-2019]
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free:
https://www.blender.org/
https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/

[Anonymous No.1740875]

Reposting from last thread:
I'm trying to setup Marlin 2.0 for my printer but I have a movement problem.
On homing I get about one second of grinding on each axis. after that initial second the homing move works as intened. I do not have any problems with regular moves, its on homing only. Reducing homing speed does not help even when set unreasonably low. I can't find a setting to reduce acceleration for homing moves.

[Anonymous No.1740882]

Does anybody have experience with Atomic's carbon fiber PETG?
How different is it to print compared to normal PETG?
Is there anything l need to tweak in my slicer to properly print this stuff?
Is it as good as some people make it out to be or should l consider Nylon?
l have an Ender 3 btw.

[Anonymous No.1740885]

I have an old i3 that I put together back in '14. I was here for the very first /3dpg/. Nagging issues started piling up and I just kinda stopped using it a couple years ago.

I helped a friend put together an ender 3 pro and was thoroughly impressed with it for the price, and ended up buying one myself.
So yeah, thats exciting.

[Anonymous No.1740937]

I started to buy part to make a modified version of pic related (printing head using pellets instead of filament). I saw some people having very promising results, and since I work in a injection molding factory, I have access to unlimited quantity of every plastic I want.

anybody here have experience with a homemade filament extruder or a pellet extruder?

[Anonymous No.1740946]

So I'm printing parts to convert my CR-10S into an all in one and I need to print pieces to hold the power supply and the circuit board to the lower extrusions. Would printing in PLA+ be ok to use heat wise or would it warp from the heat put off by the power supply?

[Anonymous No.1740949]

>>1740946
PLA should be fine.

[Anonymous No.1740969]

So I just bought an Ender 3, I put it together and I'm having this issue

https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/9y67wr/ender_3_pro_zaxis_too_high_or_bad_too_low/?utm_source=BD&utm_medium=Search&utm_name=Bing&utm_content=PSR1

The only difference is even with the bed springs loosened up all the way I still can't get it close to the nozzle. Should I just cut the tab and lower the z switch or is there something else I can do first?

[Anonymous No.1740975]

Just got my ender 3 pro's bed leveled apparently lightly scratches means scratches the absolute shit in chinese

>>1740969
you may think they are loose but can take the little adjustment wheel things off
also don't listen to fucking reddit of all websites

[Anonymous No.1740981]

>>1740969
Cut the tab on the Z stop, I had to do the same.

[Anonymous No.1740984]

>>1740975
Yeah I loosened them to the point of the wheels falling off. only 1 or 2 corners at most would touch the nozzle.

>>1740975
>also don't listen to fucking reddit of all websites
I was watching Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors' video on bed leveling and he suggested the same thing

>>1740981
ok. Thanks

[Anonymous No.1741006]

I’m planning on picking up a MSLA printer like the anycubic photon to make some articulated figures something like figma. I am wondering if resin is too brittle to make joints out of.

[Anonymous No.1741029]

Does PLA release toxic gases because I've been sleeping in the same room as my 3D printer for the past year and I think I am starting to grow another dick?

[Anonymous No.1741038]

>>1741029
nope. PLA is completely non toxic. Your extra dick is just pure luck. Unless you've been doing something else out of the ordinary, in which case you should definitely tell me

[Anonymous No.1741039]

>>1741038
Oh, I wanted a third.

[Anonymous No.1741042]

>>1741039
>3 dicks
>you can put on in her vagina, one in her ass, and the 3rd one is either between her thighs or hot dogged between her ass cheeks

fuck I need 3 dicks right now

[Anonymous No.1741043]

>>1741042
but my gf 7 vaganias

[Anonymous No.1741046]

>>1741043
where? are they all by her crotch or does she have one where each nipple should be? That'd be pretty cool. you could fuck her nipples

[Anonymous No.1741049]

>>1741046
>he doesn't know
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nH6ya5g2-s

[Anonymous No.1741057]

>>1741029
>Does PLA release toxic gases

We dont know the actual ramifications of the ultra fine particles of plastic released into the air, and the VOCs released by 3d printing. And it depends on your supplier of plastic.

Dont let people convince you its 100% safe because nobody actually knows, and the few studies that have been done show things that can cause respiratory irritation it just cant make a conclusion yet.
Its like a well known thing being in a closed room will give people sore throats from 3d printing.

Its not going to poison and kill you, but who knows what long term exposure will do.

[Anonymous No.1741059]

>>1741057
>who knows what long term exposure will do.
2 dicks

[Anonymous No.1741074]

Should I get the new prusa mini. Everyone is saying it has amazing quality right out of the box and just werks every time.
I have a duplicator i3 with a glass bed. Still doesnt work half the time.

[Anonymous No.1741094]

>>1741074
>I have a duplicator i3 with a glass bed. Still doesnt work half the time.

Your printer is fine
Get gud

[Anonymous No.1741100]

>>1740937
No idea but can you really get the extrusion volume to remain constant?

[Anonymous No.1741101]

>>1741074
Probably yes

[Anonymous No.1741112]

>>1741057
Thank you for the sane response. I linked a study in the least thread, for whomst've it may concern.

[Anonymous No.1741168]

Every stl i see online looks so fucking gay and redditpilled. I don’t want a darth vader chip clip or a rick and morty pencil holder. What can I print that is actually good?

[Anonymous No.1741174]

>>1741168
>inb4 3d printed rape
yeh it sucks, yeggi is where you can usually search for functional parts if you know the keywords since thingiverse's search is shit. most people steal from games or paid/web locked models from customizers, badragon, artstation, & sketchfab. There are also discord communities that hold ripped models(mostly not printable, but for people who dont know how to rip from vidia or sketchfab) and a zip of some gumroad(/tg/) models floating around in previous threads.
you also could steal from patreon in theory from those ripping sites, but I have only done that once via a convoluted and evil method.

other than that, follow artists you like and look out for good models in the thingiverse models of the week.

[Anonymous No.1741185]

>>1741168
Something that you've designed yourself

[Anonymous No.1741190]

>>1741168
>>1741185
on this line, not to self advertise, but I design requested models and make models printable for dubs/gets in on another board in order to get the hang of it. learning blender, fusion, and meshmixer from copying other irl things you can hold should help get more into the skills past the ui tutorials.

[Anonymous No.1741202]

>>1740949
Ok thanks.

[Anonymous No.1741210]

interesting
https://grabcad.com/groups/3d-printing-group/discussions/pellet-extrusion
>>1740937

[Anonymous No.1741263]

>>1740937
make your barrel more ridged /not aluminium, and not a big heat sink, and put some heaters on it, maybe a melt filter, and step up the connection on your screw.
im also in injection molding, most of the standard sized pellets are too big for the screw flights in the feedzone of the 8mm screw, this is my biggest problem so far.

[Anonymous No.1741303]

>>1741006
There are some flexible resins you can use. I think the brand is Siraya blu, something like that. Only quirk is that you have to print it warm for things to cure well

[Anonymous No.1741337]

>>1741263
thanks for the advices. i'm probably going to use some 50-52HRC steel for the barrel. for the heating, i'm still trying to find an alternative to my actual solution, 2 classic heating cartridge on each side of the barrel, like pic related in 24v and with less than 25mm in diameter.
>most of the standard sized pellets are too big for the screw flights
yeah, that was my first thought when I say the screw. that's why people warned me that the geometry of the pellet trap is the most important part, I guess.

[Anonymous No.1741513]

Anyone ever printed one of these with a MSLA?
https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/miniatures/figurines/yorha-2b

[Anonymous No.1741518]

>>1740937
>>1741337
Where are you getting such a small screw from? Most ones I've seen are either about a foot long or people just used a drill bit.

[Anonymous No.1741523]

>>1741210
if you find a good enough shreadder for recycling pla & abs I'd do it

[Anonymous No.1741525]

>>1741518
I will use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Zamtac-Ceramic-Extruder-Printer-Accessories/dp/B07QL2VVGT

yeah, some people use wood drills, it work too but there's no compression zone, and it can lead to irregular extrusion. IMO concrete drill are a better choice.

[Anonymous No.1741531]

>>1741523
the raw material bought in form of pellets to filament maker are around half the price of the filament. and shredded plastic is a pain in the ass to use, the flakes clog the entry most of the time.

[Anonymous No.1741553]

>>1741525
>82mm
>$60
>a month of shipping
Fucking hell, that's what some of the larger ones go for. Surely it isn't that difficult to make them?

>concrete drills are a better choice
I've considered using them but they're big as hell and also have the flare on the end, which sounds like it'd be troublesome to remove and leave rough parts where I'd cut it off.

[Anonymous No.1741565]

>>1741168
You're welcome lad.

[Anonymous No.1741568]

Is the only way to turn off an ender 3 the power supply switch?

[Anonymous No.1741575]

>>1741553
I bought mine on aliexpress for 25€ and free shipping. I don't know why but a fuckton of shop sell them.
>Surely it isn't that difficult to make them?
industrially? not at all. handmade, I think it's near impossible.
>and also have the flare on the end
wood drill also have a little part you need to remove. you can cut it then papersand it.

[Anonymous No.1741576]

Going to replace the spring nut on my elegoo mars with a pom nut today. Wish me luck boys.

[Anonymous No.1741580]

>>1741168
/k/? print your favorite tank
/g/? mod your thinkpad/make a case for your raspberry pi
/an/? print articulated centipede
/v/? don't talk to me
/b/? print pen, stick in pooper, post image
/ohm/? make a case for your circuits dumbass
/bored/ and have a rubber band? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3619717

[Anonymous No.1741610]

I'm thinking of buying an ender 5 pro (2019) as my first printer, or I wait a tiny bit and grab a prusa.

What would be more user friendly? I'll be aiming to use material that has the highest tensile strength possible.


Thoughts?

[Anonymous No.1741615]

>>1741610
>user friendly
Prusa, hands down. There's pretty much no maintenance issues or mystery "why is this happening" that happens with them.

>material that has the highest tensile strength possible
Also prusa, but not the Prusa Mini, because IIRC that has a teflon insert that prevents you from reaching higher temperatures. I've printed PEKK and other high-temperature/strength materials on a MK2S, I'm sure a MK3S would have even better results.

[Anonymous No.1741651]

>>1741610
>which is more user friendly, some random chinkshit kit printer, or a quality printer from a reputable european manufacturer
hmm, a though one

[Anonymous No.1741662]

turned on my printer after months away from it and Octopi just does not want to work. time to kill myself

[Anonymous No.1741696]

>>1741615
The MK3S and Mini both have all metal hot ends. The teflon inserts are above the heat break.

I'd guess the temp limitation is more that the tiny heat block has trouble keeping up with demand above 280C.

[Anonymous No.1741722]

If you've got a really long layer time, like over two minutes or something, do you even benefit from a parts cooling fan?

[Anonymous No.1741735]

>>1741722
yes. You keep things from sagging as they go down.

[Anonymous No.1741736]

>>1741735
What if i print something that has no overhangs?

[Anonymous No.1741738]

So is it possible to print ABS on an Ender 3 without an enclosure or is it just not worth it? Every print so far has come out a mess of strings and plastic, so I’m gonna guess no.

[Anonymous No.1741743]

>>1741738
get yourself a proper machine son
a prusa

[Anonymous No.1741744]

>>1741738
Pics? Even a cardboard box is an enclosure if you're really strapped. If you're getting warping that's definitely a sign you need to at least shield from drafts; strings, I'm not so sure.

[Anonymous No.1741748]

>>1741743
Saving up for something better since I’ve had little luck with the chinkshit
>>1741744
Don’t have pics atm, but my main problem is the filament not adhering to the bed, which is why I thought some sort of containment would be good to keep the heat in.

[Anonymous No.1741753]

>>1741736
Ever tried to build a thin vertical wall out of mashed potatoes?

[Anonymous No.1741754]

>>1741748
If it's not adhering at all, try bumping the bed temp 5-10deg (I print at 100 first layer / 110 subsequent), using isopropyl to clean your bed (if it's glass or PEI), or consider using painter's tape or a gluestick / watered down PVA if you haven't already

[Anonymous No.1741755]

>>1741748
>my main problem is the filament not adhering to the bed
Enclosure will help with warping where the print slowly pulls itself off the bed over hours.
Enclosure will not help with a first layer that never adhered to begin with.

[Anonymous No.1741757]

>>1741753
But only the top 0.2mm will be mashed potatoes, the rest has already solidified.

[Anonymous No.1741759]

>>1741754
How long does your bed take to get up to 100? I’ve been printing at 90 and it struggles to make it up to that temperature.
>>1741755
Well might as well make one to prevent future bullshit

[Anonymous No.1741781]

>>1741759
Depends. My old printer takes a good 7-10 minutes (haven't timed it in a while) in a cheap enclosure, my new one maybe 3-5 at most.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074DSJLLY/

My eternal recommendation for enclosures - cheap, dampens sound, easy to put together, and you can even carve a hole in the front for a window if you really want to. I've got 4 of those smaller kids' ones with the alphabet I use for the front pane, so I can remove a letter or two and use that as a face/hand hole without too much heat escaping. I've gotten two other people to use it, use it for both my printers, and even gotten them for the print lab at work, everybody loves them so far. 1/2" is okay but a bit saggy over time, 3/4" is great, and 1" is definitely too thick, for reference (as I've tried them all).

[Anonymous No.1741787]

Is there a model of an ass or pair of breasts I can print with ninjaflex and have sex with?

[Anonymous No.1741800]

>>1741781
Oh sweet I even have some of those tiles

[Anonymous No.1741804]

>>1741615
awesome. I'll save my bucks and buy a prusa

[Anonymous No.1741854]

HL2 AR2 dude here, bit the bullet today and bought myself a copy of Gear Generator. Gotta say say it's well worth the price for how easy it is to use and what sort of formats it can export

Here is me simulating a gear & rack exported from Gear Generator for the AR2 barrel

[Anonymous No.1741866]

>>1741854
I think there are free addons for that in the fusion 360 app store

[Anonymous No.1741868]

>>1741854
That's neat. I don't remember the barrel splitting open like that, though, but it's been quite a while.

[Anonymous No.1741873]

>>1741722
>If you've got a really long layer time, like over two minutes or something, do you even benefit from a parts cooling fan?
No, if anything it hurts part strength since the layers have less time to bond.

[Anonymous No.1741874]

>>1741787
it's not soft enough dude

[Anonymous No.1741875]

>>1741866
Yea did see some free stuff out there but have heard great things about Gear Generator, plus can see it being super useful for future projects

>>1741868
Yea turns out the AR2 rifle has quite a few moving parts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CPnmCaO568E

[Anonymous No.1741910]

>>1741854
[e-mail]? will be sending ascii horse cocks

[Anonymous No.1741923]

If I get trips I'm printing this

[Anonymous No.1741926]

>>1741854
Dayum, I'm jelly now. I've needed that thing for years, scaling objs from hardware manufacturers only goes so far when you need weird-ass gears.

[Anonymous No.1741948]

Ok, noise reduction
I built the Ikea-table enclosure for my Prusa, but as expected it is a massive resonance chamber, especially combined with my trash apartment floor. I dont want to annoy my neighbors too much.
Do you think resting the printer on a rubber/foam mat and a hard plate would reduce noise?
Also it is loudest when printing infill and filled layers, so while doing 45° movement relative to the frame. I assume this is because of positive interference from X and Y motors stepping at the same time. I will try using the infill angle setting to reduce this.

[Anonymous No.1741961]

>>1741948
Go to your hardware store and buy a concrete paving slab. Place the printer on top of that. Absorbs the vibrations ridiculously well.

[Anonymous No.1741975]

>>1741961
No additional cushioning? Sounds kind of iffy, not gonna lie.

[Anonymous No.1741983]

>>1741975
I have to agree with >>1741961, I got a big heavy table and it worked great for the i3 clone while I had it, my new one is a super light corexy and can get away with a rubber mat on top so I could use the rest of the table for sanding and gluing without ruining the finish

[Anonymous No.1741988]

>>1741874
Better than nothing

[Anonymous No.1741990]

>>1741854
>drawer effect
The positioning of the linear bearings looks a bit iffy to me, I'd put them closer to the gears
>just my 2 eurocents

[Anonymous No.1741991]

>>1741988
with a low enough infill...

[Anonymous No.1742000]

>>1741787
Print a mold and cast one from silicone

[Anonymous No.1742019]

>>1742000
well do you know of any mold stls?

[Anonymous No.1742061]

>>1741948
>>1741975
With >>1741781 and >>1741961 I have to constantly check my printer to see if it's still on, it's that quiet. I'd suggest putting some sort of non-slip mat under the paving stone if you don't have the foam mats like I do, but for the price of $1.50 I think it's an improvement just about anyone can afford.

[Anonymous No.1742069]

>>1742019
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kW--y8xFr4g

[Anonymous No.1742072]

>>1742069
>Instamorph
Does he at one point mention that its literally just Polycaprolactone or does he keep going on like that?

[Anonymous No.1742081]

>>1742072
He does mention it's PCL.

[Anonymous No.1742091]

>>1742069
I was asking for an stl file to download, not the material.

[Anonymous No.1742105]

>>1741854
I really don't think that is going to work the way you expect it to anon, especially as a 3d print. I would reccomend something more like pic related and then the outer shell can be glued on.

[Anonymous No.1742137]

>>1742091
I'm telling you how to make your own mold

[Anonymous No.1742140]

>>1742105
this, also the sliding rails in pic reated would work/sand better than trying to do a square peg and hole with high tolerances.

[Anonymous No.1742192]

So what materials can the Prusa print out of the box?

[Anonymous No.1742196]

>>1742192
Any thermoplastic

[Anonymous No.1742198]

Designed this 3d printable linear bearing for aluminum extrusions the idea is that the red pads are separate parts, this way they can have the best surface quality a 3d printer can offer, the one that is in contact with the print bed, and also so that they are swappable in case they wear.
Any suggestions?

[Anonymous No.1742200]

>>1742198

[Anonymous No.1742202]

>>1740885
>ender 3
Do you still like the ender? Thinking of picking one up soon

[Anonymous No.1742216]

>>1741910

and here i thought i was the only one to notice. since horse cocks are taken guess i am sending homo furry stuff

[Anonymous No.1742226]

>>1742105
>>1742140
While that may be true i still think he could pretty succesfully do the square pegs thingy, just needs the correct print orientation, the shell/barrel vertical, and a lot of supports

[Anonymous No.1742272]

>>1742198
mite be cool.jpg

The red pads might work but its a large surface, you either need a lot of force to move it, or get the tolerances low but then have a lot of play. There must be a good alternative for the red pads that i cant think of now.

I remember trying something like this with a polyjet, the L/D ratio wasnt the best so it was a fail so i just gave up because it wasnt important.

[Anonymous No.1742276]

What do people mean when they say the reprap project has failed?

Is it just because it can't print all of the parts?

[Anonymous No.1742284]

>>1742272
How does surface area affect drag?
Also, i'm adjusting this thing by incrementally reducing the thickness of the pads until it slides alright, when it comes to wobble, i'll just have to make the bearing wide enough.
See pic related, both had the same amount of clearance and yet the top one could only rotate 0.8° while the bottom one could rotate 2.3°

[Anonymous No.1742285]

>>1742276
Maybe they're referring to how it didn't end up being everybody making their own printers with open source parts instead of just buying chinkshit kits.
The Reprap didn't fail at producing a lot of money for Creality, that is for sure at least.

[Anonymous No.1742286]

>>1741990
>>1742105
Thanks for the suggestions fellas, I think you might be right here. Will update the design

[Anonymous No.1742287]

>>1742284
more surface = more friction

[Anonymous No.1742288]

>>1742284
forgot picture

[Anonymous No.1742290]

>>1742287
Got a source to back that up?

[Anonymous No.1742291]

>>1742290
I was going to say "wtf, that basic physics" but then I googled it and found : Although a larger area of contact between two surfaces would create a larger source of frictional forces, it also reduces the pressure between the two surfaces for a given force holding them together. Since pressure equals force divided by the area of contact, it works out that the increase in friction generating area is exactly offset by the reduction in pressure; the resulting frictional forces, then, are dependent only on the frictional coefficient of the materials and the FORCE holding them together.

If you were to increase the force as you increased the area to keep PRESSURE the same, then increasing the area WOULD increase the frictional force between the two surfaces.
Answered by: Paul Walorski, B.A. Physics, Part-time Physics Instructor

[Anonymous No.1742295]

>>1742291
well yeah, friction is coefficient of friction x force afterall

[Anonymous No.1742301]

>>1742295
but but but but hockey stakes have thin blades !

[Anonymous No.1742327]

>>1742291
This is true for most materials under common conditions, but not all. Rubber, for example, displays significant variance in its coefficient of friction depending on pressure and surface speed.

[Anonymous No.1742328]

>>1742301
Thin enough to concentrate a person's weight enough to compress solid ice to the denser liquid water, and then slide on the film while digging into the ice enough to provide control.

[Anonymous No.1742332]

>>1742327
Man rubber fucks with my brains i'll give it that, like how the fuck do wider tires have better grip fucking crazy

[Anonymous No.1742372]

>>1742301
ice on steel are two very low friction surfaces, and hockey blades are curved along the axis of movement to avoid any hard surface contact

[Anonymous No.1742373]

>>1742327
I feel like that has more to do with rubber having a high coefficient of friction, and very low youngs modulus, so it deforms into wave like structures, increasing the localised stress

[Anonymous No.1742378]

>>1742198
>Any suggestions?
Look up filaments from Igus, they have specific filaments for linear bearings on anodized aluminium.

[Anonymous No.1742386]

>>1742378

That filament consts a fortune and you still get an FDM surface finish...

>>1742198

Just buy a 1mm thick sheet of PTFE and cut it up into rectangles. I'll say this though - anodized aluminium is a rougher surface than a linear rod or a rail. It will move harder due to the friction, especially with a large surface area. You will also need a way to preload the bearing surfaces such that they ride smoothly withouth binding or backlash.

[Anonymous No.1742387]

>>1742378

That filament costs a fortune and you still get an FDM surface finish...

>>1742198

Just buy a 1mm thick sheet of PTFE and cut it up into rectangles. I'll say this though - anodized aluminium is a rougher surface than a linear rod or a rail. It will move harder due to the friction, especially with a large surface area. You will also need a way to preload the bearing surfaces such that they ride smoothly without binding or backlash.

[Anonymous No.1742397]

>>1742387
>FDM surface finish
the surface finish with my method is as good as with injection molded plastic.
>Just buy a 1mm thick sheet of PTFE and cut it up into rectangles
Good idea, will consider it if PLA proves to not be good enough
>anodized aluminium is a rougher surface than a linear rod or a rail
yeah, so i've noticed, i wonder if sanding with a 1000 grit wet paper or something would be worth it
>especially with a large surface area
how does surface area affect friction in this case?
>You will also need a way to preload the bearing surfaces
why preload? isn't it enough that i adjust pad thickness until it slides smoothly enough but without much wobble?
>backlash
what do you mean by backlash in this context?

[Anonymous No.1742418]

>>1742397
>yeah, so i've noticed, i wonder if sanding with a 1000 grit wet paper or something would be worth it
You can polish the extrusion to a mirror finish, but that's a lot of work compared to just buying an actual linear rail. 1000 won't be enough, you need about 2500 to make it reflective
>how does surface area affect friction in this case?
The more material that's in contact with the surface, the higher the friction? If you look at Igus bearings you'll notice that they are "slotted" on the inside - that reduces the overall surface area and diverts any dust and debris that may be on the rod which would obstruct the movement.
>why preload? isn't it enough that i adjust pad thickness until it slides smoothly enough but without much wobble?
The point at which the surface contacts the rail with no play but also with a weak enough force to allow the thing to glide freely is a very delicate one. You really need to have a way to finely adjust that tension in order to get it just right. You can do it with padding, but it's not as precise as turning a set screw. Actual linear rails feature an adjustment screw for that exact purpose.
>what do you mean by backlash in this context?
As in the play between moving parts

[Anonymous No.1742429]

>>1740868
I made a new instrument. It is a 3 stringed fretless dulcimer.

[Anonymous No.1742431]

>>1742429
Noice, how does it play?

[Anonymous No.1742432]

>>1742431
It plays okay. I'm still tuning it and fixing the neck so it doesn't flex as much. It is a prototype instrument that has banjo strings for strings.
I could post a demo recording.

[Anonymous No.1742434]

>>1742431
>>1742432
https://vocaroo.com/9mTLepTKQdn
Once I fix the neck and let the strings rest so they don't go out of tune as much, I could post a better recording.

[Anonymous No.1742443]

>>1742418
>a lot of work compared to just buying an actual linear rail
Meter long linear rails tend to cost a lot and shafts aren't rigid enough/weigh really fucking much :/
>The more material that's in contact with the surface, the higher the friction?
nah dude, friction is µ x F

[Anonymous No.1742512]

>>1742429
reminds me of this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jDdSQlCbJ90

[Anonymous No.1742546]

Is there any reason I shouldn't use polymaker polysmooth to make a usable dildo?

[Anonymous No.1742562]

>>1742546
Not really, but coat it in something else smooth (like a lacquer) before you use it at least

[Anonymous No.1742564]

>>1742562
so smoothing the plastic itself won't be enough?

[Anonymous No.1742565]

>>1742546
If layer adhesion fails you're stuck with a piece of plastic up your ass - and without coating, germs will creep between the layers in just a single use.

[Anonymous No.1742567]

>>1742397
>>1742443

we buy/make slides like this bullshit at work, out of delrin and uhmw, they suck in both applications. extrusions are not very smooth, flat or parallel . over 1meter you are gonna have a bad time. you can get it moving smoothly at one section, then bind at another. they also have loose specs so if you set it up to be nioce in one orientation, if you rotate the extrusion, it will be loose/tight (eg 19.94mm x 20.10mm profile)
https://reprap.org/wiki/Mondrian_Build_Manual
https://reprap.org/wiki/Mondrian

this french guy has a lot of good insight on doing the shitty print bearings, hes been working on it for a few years now, and seems to have figured it out enough. go though his history and check all his revisions and notes, he has a lot of detailed stuff on the printed bearings
for over a year i was following his build making my own until it became clear it wouldnt work without big changes, and the only way he go it to work was putting the drives right on the bearings so they wouldnt bind.
linear rails 1000mm long are only $50 for an mgm12 chinese deal. with the plastic shit on extrusions, you are going to have tons of play and still be binding, im not too good with computers but all this friction shit is real, you will get binding out the ass >>1742200
with this setup. printing orientation makes a big difference with the sliding surfaces. the z banding you get with 2d prints makes the bearings slide so much smoother. not having 2 adjustable pads is gonna kill you. once you rotate your beaing on the extrusion, it will fuck up all your preloads because extrusions arent square

[Anonymous No.1742568]

>>1742565

>>1742565
>>>1742546
>If layer adhesion fails you're stuck with a piece of plastic up your ass
Would printing it laying down prevent that?
>and without coating, germs will creep between the layers in just a single use.
But polysmooth smoothes out the layers by spraying isopropyl alcohol. Is that not enough to prevent germs?

[Anonymous No.1742573]

>>1742568
>Would printing it laying down prevent that?
Then it'd be flat on one side, or you're printing with a load of support and that would result in even more porosity.
>Is that not enough to prevent germs?
No, there are still microfractures that will show up on a microscope.

If you want to 3D-print dildos, please just print a negative mold, and fill that with silicone.

[Anonymous No.1742581]

>>1742564
At best, you'll have microscopic cracks between the layers, where bodily fluids will accumulate and cause unpleasant growths. Personally I always use a condom on my dildos so that shouldn't be an issue.

[Anonymous No.1742624]

>>1742573
>just print a negative mold, and fill that with silicone.

How about just doing it easy and making a silicon mold of the printed dildo.

[Anonymous No.1742632]

>>1742624
thats how you do figures, but the silicone mold is filled with urethane resin

[Anonymous No.1742635]

>>1742632
But instead of urethane you use silicone for the part.

[Anonymous No.1742637]

>>1742635
you need some release agents

[Anonymous No.1742638]

>>1742637
Wax spray works great.

[Anonymous No.1742639]

First time trying small minis on my new printer, and not sure what to do. Tried printing out this tank turret twice. First time was flat and there were obvious printer lines on the top. Tried printing it at an angle the second time and the end of the barrel didnt print, plus there's a lot more strings left over between the supports. Is it just the matter of finding the right angle, like barrel pointing down or on its side, or is there something else I'm doing wrong. Ender 3 pro, whatever pla filament it came with. 205/60 temps, FDG mini cura profile

[Anonymous No.1742647]

>>1742639
first of all, dont use meshmixer/sla supports on fdm models, it can be done I guess but I dont know why you would want to with modern slicer auto support methods and custom support
(cura tree support works well for models IMO)
2nd, there is indeed an Ideal angle to print those tank cannons, I have found that if you prioritize strength in meshmixer auto orientation, you can get a printable angle and good detail for most parts.

[Anonymous No.1742659]

>>1742639
You appear to be printing with SLA supports on an FDM printer for some reason, as well

[Anonymous No.1742684]

>>1742639
Good choice in tanks

[Anonymous No.1742704]

Any recommended machinery for sanding?

I am going slightly insane by sanding down my prints for an hour or two. Thought about buying a Dremel but even at the lowest setting at 5000rpm it will probably just burn the pla and not sand it much

Any idea if there is an machine to at least replace the 80 to 160 grit sanding process with something faster?

Not talking about the 280grit wet sanding step thay is as annoying but I see the point there doing it by hand

[Anonymous No.1742765]

What dual extruder 3d printers would /3dpg/ recommend? Crap ton of chink printers on ali. What are the options for under 400, 500, and 600usd?

[Anonymous No.1742777]

>>1742765
what type do you want, IDEX, Tool swapping, mixing, 2in/1out(like mixing but happens at the cold side), dual direct, dual bowden(single or shared heat break), motorized swapping nozzles, switched extruder motor(actual buttons switch the extruder motor to a #in/1out nozzle)

[Anonymous No.1742778]

>>1742777
oh also the palette

[Anonymous No.1742789]

>>1742778
or mmu2s :-)

[Anonymous No.1742798]

>>1742777
>>1742778
I was hoping to use PLA and PVA for the support structures, so I figure mixing solutions wouldn't be amazing. Does that help narrow down what would be a decent solution? I'm happy with either dual direct or dual bowden for my case I think.

[Anonymous No.1742874]

>>1741513
>Printing cartoon bitches

Go outside for fucks sake.

[Anonymous No.1742881]

I got a roll of Delrin and a roll of nylon for Christmas.

Which one am I going to have more fun trying to print functional parts with?

[Anonymous No.1742883]

>>1742789
thats an #in/1out system retard

[Anonymous No.1742886]

>>1742883
just like the palette, which is what I was responding to

[Anonymous No.1742887]

>>1742567
So basically bare extrusions is a hassle and just not worth it?
That picture of your gave me an idea, how about this? 30x30 extrusions 8mm steel shaft

[Anonymous No.1742889]

>>1742765
I have a BCN3D Sigma, it's an IDEX. I got it used for $500 three years ago and it prints like a champ. It's like $2,700 new so not in your price range but I'll chime in anyway.

I messed around with PLA with PVA supports in the beginning (and also ABS with HIPS supports and d-limonene solvent), but it was always, always more trouble and (printing and post-processing) time than printing everything in ABS and just sanding or living with the minimal support scars. I don't even have the secondary print head hooked up any more, I never use it. And two-color, same-material prints are a meme.

The only reason I would ever conceivably use both nozzles at once as a hobbyist would be to print a rigid and a flexible plastic inside each other, but that would also require mods to the printhead since it's a long-ass Bowden tube machine.

[Anonymous No.1742891]

>>1742798
I would say go used ultimaker but thats retarded here
under 600... there's the creality one(cr-x) that should work fine and has the hardware to be modded easily to a better board, and the HICTOP where it's gimmick is that it can print two things at once in mirror mode.
below 500 there's geeetech (which would be safe to avoid unless you know not to trust a single part from them away from your presence)
below that is just kits, where its better to just buy two cheap printer kits and combine their parts.
>>1742889
lucky bastard I love that thing

[Anonymous No.1742894]

>>1742889
a capricorn tube and bondtech clone goes a long way. never tried ninjaflex, but standard flexibles can be printed with ease.

[Anonymous No.1742924]

>>1742887
honestly, that would be better than nothing, if you can keep a constant width across the whole length with it , and make one side adjustable , because the width of the slot are a loose spec and will vary from one side to the other

[Anonymous No.1742926]

>>1742889
>I messed around with PLA with PVA supports
Not him but I'm also interested in it, for some stuff that requires internal supports where they can't be reached.

[Anonymous No.1742957]

>>1742798

PVA is kind of expensive and you have to store it carefully so as not to let it asborb any moisture. You can use PLA with PETG supports (or the other way around), they don't stick to eachother and are more affordable. For dual extrusion ideally an IDEX or a tool changer will work best, but they're hard to find cheap.

>>1742889
>BCN3D Sigma for 500$

Luckyy...

[Anonymous No.1742968]

cr10s pro: My printer when its locating home won't find its X position anymore, all it does is ignore the switch like its already at x home position. I have tried replacing the switch but the problem is still there. could it be that the wiring is wrong?

[Anonymous No.1743000]

I just got a Ender 3 pro for christmas
What upgrades do you guys recommend to enhance it? I already grabbed the metal extruder cause I knew the default plastic one would wear to shit immediately
Is the Titan Aero good and worth the 200 bucks?

[Anonymous No.1743005]

>>1743000
No point in polishing a turd, build it and use it as it is, learn how 3d printers work, if you grow tired of the endless annoyances a chinkshit printer offers then buy a quality printer.

[Anonymous No.1743010]

>>1743000
>I already grabbed the metal extruder cause I knew the default plastic one would wear to shit immediately
It doesn't, but you do you.
>Is the Titan Aero good
Yes.
>and worth the 200 bucks?
Not for an Ender 3. You could double your print volume and speed for that money.

[Anonymous No.1743011]

>>1743005
>>1743010
>buy a quality printer
which one are you lads looking at/have

[Anonymous No.1743013]

>>1743011
Read the OP. I have Chiron myself, but if I just got an E3 for Christmas from some relative I'd just start printing and figure out what I need/want out of a printer. Maybe it's fine out of the box, maybe you need a few minor mods, maybe you want to build your own from scratch, maybe you can start saving up for a really expensive printer. Can't tell you which, if you don't have any experience.

[Anonymous No.1743015]

>>1743011
prusa

[Anonymous No.1743020]

Anyone has a good pirate download for Fusion 360? the god damn website doesn't allow me to download shit.

[Anonymous No.1743022]

>>1743020
If you can't manage to properly navigate their website then you probably don't even know how to torrent stuff

[Anonymous No.1743023]

>>1743022
Don't be a little shit.

[Anonymous No.1743026]

>>1743023
It's true, also, why would there be torrents for a piece of software that is distributed by the publisher for free and is designed to work online with an account logged in?

[Anonymous No.1743032]

>>1743000
Bed springs, boden clips and tube (or has the Pro fixed those issues?)

[Anonymous No.1743041]

>>1743020
you can use fusion for free, its netfabb you need a license for
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVFoBR4ceSk
my old keygen hacks still work with the 2020 ver of their software but I think the best way would be modifying their volume licensing server app. couldn't tell you a link but torrenting still works...

[Anonymous No.1743064]

My printer seems to be refusing to extrude any filament past roughly 1 hour of print time
it keeps moving, but nothing comes out ever again until the print is done
it happens no matter what filament I use, or what temperature I have it at

[Anonymous No.1743122]

>>1743064
wat printer? Kinda sounds like something is heating up (and failing) on your board, like the driver for the extrude motor.

[Anonymous No.1743159]

Thinking about picking up either an MP mini for the simplicity or an Ender 3 for the build volume. Is the Ender 3 significantly more fussy or high-tinkering/maintenance than the MP minis?

[Anonymous No.1743169]

>>1740868
happy new year friends! in whatever time zone you may be.

[Anonymous No.1743181]

Just made my first design in OpenSCAD, whatcha think lads

[Anonymous No.1743190]

>>1743181
ayylmao/10

[Anonymous No.1743215]

>>1743181
You could simplify the legs with a for loop
for(angle = [0, 120, 240]) //list
rotate([10, 0, angle])
or
for(angle = [0: 120: 240]) //iterate 0 to 240 with steps of 120
rotate([10, 0, angle])

[Anonymous No.1743220]

>>1743041
Lmao you don't need a tutorial video for that shit, literally just make an account and you get it for free

[Anonymous No.1743229]

>>1743220
I did, but I never get to the download page. It just kicks me out or something.

Anyways, I won't use that garbage, I'll try my hand with OpenSCAD and FreeCAD.

[Anonymous No.1743240]

>>1742957
>>1742891
When I bought the Sigma, I hadn't done 3D printing since college and struggled to justify $500 on jumping into a "new" hobby. I only knew the printer was kept safe and not used very often. I didn't know what I had until I looked up later. If I had known what it was before I bought it then it would have been an instant buy.

It has paid off the price I paid for it and is on it's way to paying off it's retail price (and replacement parts for things I broke...).

The only thing I hate about it is the cheap-ass blue plastic vacuum-formed false floor that hides the electronics. It's hard to take out and cracks so easily. I think it's changed on newer models though - my base model is the R16.

Also it's hard to get generic spare parts since everything is somewhat specialized but BCN3D will ship through Matterhackers so it's not usually a big deal.

[Anonymous No.1743249]

>>1740868
I got an Ender 3 Pro from my parents this Christmas and everything is working okay so far. I printed an extruder knob as a test and it was looking really good until the printing finished. When it finished, the nozzle stabbed deep into the top of the knob, melting a huge portion of it. The print is still structurally sound and I'm using it as is, but what the fuck happened there?

[Anonymous No.1743259]

>>1743249
Put it in https://ncviewer.com/ and see if there's any weird behavior. You can watch the path being traced and slow down/ speed up as needed. If the file looks fine then check your "ending gcode" settings for whatever slicer you use, there might be something weird there.

[Anonymous No.1743324]

>>1743259
I use Slic3r but am pretty unfamiliar with it. And I dont see any issues using that link of yours. This other print I just completed is having the same issues. Any ideas?

[Anonymous No.1743327]

>>1743324
Check your End G-Code folder and look up all the commands there to see if it might be causing that. If not, might be something with the board; I've never used an Ender 3 so I don't know if this is a known issue

[Anonymous No.1743329]

>>1743327
Forgot to add image. Mine is PrusaSlicer so it might be a bit different than Slic3r but should still have the same layout

[Anonymous No.1743332]

>>1743329
I see the gcode section now, thanks anon. Here's what I've got

G4 ; wait
M221 S100
M106 S0 ; turn off cooling fan
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
G91
G1 F1800 E-3
G90
>{if layer_z < max_print_height}G1 Z{z_offset+min(layer_z+30, max_print_height)}{endif} ; Move print head up
G28 X0 ; home x and y axis
G1 Y180; Remove Print Position
M84 ; disable motors
M300 S2600 P100; Beep

I'm guessing the problem is the greentext line?

[Anonymous No.1743342]

>>1743159

Deltas are simple mechanically but not easy to troubleshoot from what ive seen, so my pick would be the E3

[Anonymous No.1743362]

>>1743342
There's also the regular mp mini

[Anonymous No.1743389]

>get three huge orders for nylon parts in a row
>finally done and back to doing simple pla shit
You forget just how lovely PLA is.

[Anonymous No.1743407]

>>1743332
>greentext line
Don't see anything wrong with it
;You could try commenting it out by putting a semi-colen in front of it.
Add G1 Z5 F100 BEFORE the G90 to raise 5 (may not need F100)
As long as you're not at the top of the z travel, it shouldn't cause any problems

You could also look at the g-code with a text editor to see what that greentext line evaluates to. It should be 30mm above the part height and look like G1Zxx near the text end

[Anonymous No.1743410]

>>1742639
>>1742647
Tried what you said, and the print is a little messier, but complete. That cura tree support doesnt seem to be doing anything though.

[Anonymous No.1743414]

I recently bought a roll of PLA from Geeetech, and I had a strange failure on one of my first prints - a few layers in, the filament snapped either at the extruder gear, or between the filament roll and the extruder gear. Is Geeetech a brand to avoid or was that just a fluke? I had only opened the roll on the 26th.

[Anonymous No.1743458]

>>1743407
Shockingly I just removed that whole greentext line and my test print cube came out perfectly. I don't know what I did and frankly I'm not arguing

[Anonymous No.1743464]

>>1743410
it should look more like this (maybe less dense with default settings), ignore the print angle due to the hat but the support is single walled and easy to remove compared to normal supports

[Anonymous No.1743483]

>>1743414
I once bought two roles from Solutech, one black and one white. The black had the same problem as you describe, brittle as hell.
I'm starting to suspect that all these "manufacturers" are in fact just buying from a few companies like "Desert Extrusion" in the US and whatever outfits make string trimmer line in China. So what you get as Geetech today won't be what you get tomorrow, maybe.

[Anonymous No.1743543]

>>1743159
Would not recommend a delta for your first printer.

[Anonymous No.1743545]

>>1743159
why not just buy a Prusa mini?

[Anonymous No.1743548]

>>1743543
'dis
>>1743545
you could just get a cetus for that price, but for "mini 3d printer under 400$" either could be the best option depending on the usecase.

[Anonymous No.1743551]

>>1743548
yeah Cetus would be good too
honestly not sure which is better

[Anonymous No.1743557]

>>1743551
the cetus was on sale for 325 when the mini came out so I expect them to be in compitition for that price point. if you want a screen choose prusa
-both have to be modded destructively for firmware based mods
-cetus has been around longer and has more upgrades at the moment, at a cost
-linear rails vs a better belt system and included sensor
-you gotta pay for an open source cpu on the cetus for smoothie or octoprint, I'm pretty sure octo will find a way for the mini, but idk about prusaconnect vs cetus wifi vs paying for a custom octo chip.
-teirtime direct drive vs e3d direct drive
-custom build plate material vs removable plate

[Anonymous No.1743562]

>>1743557
mini is bowden actually

[Anonymous No.1743608]

>>1743562
>>1743557

Very nice bowden though.

[Anonymous No.1743646]

>>1743545
Because a prusa mini is $350 when I'm only considering the Ender 3 because it's under $250

[Anonymous No.1743647]

>>1743646
if you knew as much as i do about chinkshit kits compared to prusas you'd be willing to spend thrice that

[Anonymous No.1743650]

>>1743647
Get a load of this faggot

[Anonymous No.1743652]

>>1743650
You'll see what i mean in time, hope you haven't wasted too much money by then

[Anonymous No.1743654]

>>1743647
>if you knew as much as i do about chinkshit kits compared to prusas you'd be willing to spend thrice that
>>1743652
What do you mean, exactly? Most of the reviews I have seen for the Ender 3 and MP mini have been very positive. Are Prusas trouble free?

[Anonymous No.1743656]

>>1743654
What he means is "I need someone else to make profiles for my prints to come out good, so ill pay more money for a smaller less capable machine because tweaking settings is hard"

But thats kind of how a lot of the new 3D printing guys are now.

[Anonymous No.1743661]

>>1743656
yeah yeah, whatever you say
>>1743654
Being able to press a button and knowing that you will end up with a fabulous part hassle free after a year of getting anally fucked by chink cost cutting measures is something completely out of this world.

[Anonymous No.1743662]

>>1743661
>chink cost cutting measures

While in the same exact breath
>telling someone to buy a cantilever style printer

[Anonymous No.1743668]

>>1740868

Is there a way to know how electrically safe my printing material is?
I want to make custom outlet covers/lightswitches, but I don't know if it's safe or up to code.

[Anonymous No.1743669]

>>1743661
>a year of getting anally fucked by chink cost cutting measures is something completely out of this world
That hasn't been my experience. I've been using my ender for a year and a half now and it's been entirely trouble free. Setting it up and getting my first print done took three hours with the help of an aussie on youtube, and it printed good right away. I spent the following week printing on and off and tuning the settings. The only part I've had to replace on my chinkshit printer is the bed surface and two nozzles, but that's something you have to do anyway. It's a cheap printer but it's very good value for the money.

Half a year ago I upgraded to an all-metal hotend because I wanted to start printing PETG, but the original hotend was still working fine and I still have it in a box in case I need it in the future. I actually had more trouble getting the all-metal one to work than the stock one.
I'd definitely recommend the Ender over the Prusa. I can get three Enders for the price of one Prusa, and from the pictures I've seen of people printing on their expensive machines, many of my prints look better.

[Anonymous No.1743671]

>>1743668
I dont think it matters, they are just plastic plates that dont do anything.

[Anonymous No.1743676]

>>1743671
It does matter. In Europe and USA those covers are made from fire-resistant materials. If you have a shitty installation and get arcing, the sparks could ignite many printing plastics, and just the heat could easily deform even tougher ones like ABS.
>>1743668
They're not going to be up to code. Please don't do it.
If you do have to do it, at least design your things so that they're "covers" that you can just glue on top of commercial versions.

[Anonymous No.1743678]

>>1743668
Look up their electrical conductivity, most of them are non-conductive (ABS, PETG). Only risk is if you've got a short, which creates heat, which can then melt the material, just like with regular injection molded parts.

>>1743661
>a year of getting anally fucked by chink cost cutting measures
Anyone with a semblance of competency can get a scratchbuild from chinkshit parts up and running in a week, if your tinkering requires a year of anal submission you're doing something wrong. Or good, I'm not judging you.

[3D Boomer No.1743683]

>>1743669
>from the pictures I've seen of people printing on their expensive machines, many of my prints look better.

We pretty much hit a wall in FDM print quality back in 2015.
You could buy a FolgerTech (or other popular) ACRYLIC framed I3 printers and get the same print quality as a $1000+ printer. And there werent a bunch of readily available profiles to actually plug and play.

The hardest part was periodical tweaking you had to do, since I3s used to have threaded rod for most of its base. Or your plastic parts breaking, because they do break. This is where the "chinkshit kits are bad" meme comes from, it was a different time and they were a pain in the ass.

The fact that Enders are based on Aluminum extrusion and all metal carriage parts, there is almost no measuring or tweaking. The profiles pump out parts in good quality with no work.
I guess im out of my element when I see people whining about the Ender 3. You dont even have to cut and adjust the belts. Its something an 8 year old can slap together and get printing well.

[Anonymous No.1743684]

>>1742889
I use a Sigmax at work for printing ABS with HIP as a support material. It takes a lot of tweaking to take full benefit of the supports, and most importantly you set the distance between the supports and the part to 0.
The supported side of the prints now end up with the same surface finish as the topside of them.

[Anonymous No.1743687]

>>1743683
Well, I wouldn't call the Ender perfect. They could be shipping them with silent steppers, BLtouch and magnetic steel PEI by now, but they're still manually leveled and with the buildtak copy.
Not that the buildtak copy is bad, mind you. It's just that Creality could be selling a "fully featured" Ender and still be at half the price of a Prusa.
I've had my eyes on that huge Ender 5 Pro for a while now. Maybe maybe, I just can't figure out how to justify a new printer to the gf.

[Anonymous No.1743695]

>>1743687
>I just can't figure out how to justify a new printer to the gf.
1. You could sell or trade one of your old ones
2. It's your money, spend it how you want. An axe wound doesn't entitle someone to your finances.
Unless you're the financially dependent one and she's supporting you.

[Anonymous No.1743709]

>>1743687
>Silent steppers
>BLtouch
>Magnetic steel
No, this would drive the price up and that would destory it's market position. Maybe in a Pro+ version, but certainly not on the regular E3 - not all consumers need the full feature version, but every single consumer in the market for the E3 is looking for a cheap printer. Don't sacrifice price to gain some minor conveniences, especially when you could just put the printer somewhere it can't be heard, level it manually (much better than autoleveling imo), and magnetic steel isn't the best option if you ever want to get into high temperature materials. Not only do your proposed ''upgrades'' add large costs to the printer, they also aren't upgrades in every single user case.

[Anonymous No.1743711]

>>1743668
>>1743676
The plates themselves must adhere to dimensional and durability code. They must also be made of a code-compliant material. After all that, they're not strictly code unless tested by an approved lab (UL, ETL, Intertek, etc) or explicitly approved by a local inspector.

In practice? Do it right and the local inspector will tell you its fine. You can get listed UL94-V0 and 5VB rated and tested filament. Do that and follow dimensional spec, you're fine. Just don't claim to be listed if you sell them.

Or, build covers that fit on/glue to existing PC or Nylon plates.

[Anonymous No.1743715]

>>1743709
>Not only do your proposed ''upgrades'' add large costs to the printer, they also aren't upgrades in every single user case.
They are, but some people are just cheap.
They'd rather drive a $600 death trap with spinners than a used Prius.

[Anonymous No.1743731]

>>1743695
It's our money. She works in a hotel and I drive a forklift, we're not exactly loaded. I wasn't being entirely serious, if I actually needed a better printer she'd be fine with it, but the one I have is good enough and I'd rather we go for a nice trip in the summer than get a printer I don't actually need now.
>>1743709
Yeah, I meant it more like that should be on the Ender 3 Pro than on the regular one. I was unclear, my bad.

[Anonymous No.1743734]

>>1743731
OK, stop it, you're sounding sensible now.
If it's a printer to dick around with, yeah, sounds like a questionable spend.

[Anonymous No.1743749]

>>1743695
>axe wound

[Anonymous No.1743761]

>>1743749
https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/axe_wound

[Anonymous No.1743834]

Are there any Flex Filaments softer than A80?
I've seen a chart, and juding by that even A80 - the softest i was able to find - is too hard.

Does anyone know of a site selling softer flexlaments? Or do I even need lower than A80? I want to make a beverage can holder, so the part which adapts to the different bottle sizes needs to be hard enough to grab the bottles, but not too hard to dent them.

[Anonymous No.1743881]

>>1743834
adjust the flexibility by geometry, pic related

[Anonymous No.1743884]

>>1743834
PrintWithSmile TPU is A70. I haven't used it myself, but they're usually good.

[Anonymous No.1743937]

I'm going to try printing a nylon Benchy
I've never printed nylon before

What is going to go wrong?

[Anonymous No.1743939]

>>1743937
Did you dry it?

[DRY IT No.1743942]

>>1743937
did you DRY it?

[Anonymous No.1743943]

>>1743939
>>1743942
No, but I haven't opened it yet either.

[Anonymous No.1743992]

>>1743943
It will likely still need drying.

[Anonymous No.1744003]

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

[Anonymous No.1744004]

>>1744003
Same here, anon. Same here.

[Anonymous No.1744010]

>>1743937
too wet

[Anonymous No.1744011]

>>1743731
Do yourself a favor and talk open personal savings accounts for yourself and the lady. Then siphon off a small amount into them so you each have personal funds that are yours. Legit the easiest way to never argue about money. The wife and I set up our accounts into family saving, family checking, wife personal, husband personal. It works brilliantly.

[Anonymous No.1744028]

>>1744011
^^^This. ^^^

Subdivision of accounts is common military advice advice to junior enlisted. It works very fucking well.

[Anonymous No.1744029]

Nbd just getting on the next OP image again

[Anonymous No.1744049]

>>1744011
Interesting. So, you can spend it on whatever you want if it's within the constraints of the amount you split up, and I assume it's evenly divided? How do you distinguish "family" from personal; e.g., say you're into woodworking and want to get a bunch of new tools but make improvements around the house, which would that be? What about stuff like event tickets where you would take the wife; family event, but you're probably the one that wants to go?

[Anonymous No.1744052]

>>1744049
Not those guys, but I figure out the monthly bills, including yearly bills such as homeowners and property tax etc. as monthly installments. Say that number is $10000 (because it's easy). Now, say I make $50000 a year, she makes $25000, I deposit a total of $6666.66 a year (figured out monthly, or over 26 pays if you get paid that way) and she deposits $3333.34. The extra penny is because I did the math, so she can just deal with it. There is only a checkbook, the account isn't tied to a card. That way only the joint expenses are paid out of the joint account, so your concert tickets or whatever? That's on whoever wants to go the most I guess, that kind of thing isn't really an issue for my wife and me.

[Anonymous No.1744084]

>>1744052
Why not pay even amounts?
Is this what equality is i heard about?

[Anonymous No.1744119]

>>1744084
>Is this what equality is i heard about?
No, equality is when he pays those 10 k and gives to her 7.5 k so that both have the same money

[Anonymous No.1744144]

>>1743884
On their website (which was all in czech) it said "Printed parts can achieve Shore 20D or 40D hardness", are you sure?

>>1743881
Intredasting, thanks anon ill have a look into that

[Anonymous No.1744168]

>>1744003
Wisdom

[Anonymous No.1744272]

Does anyone have this monstrosity?
It's selling for $340 now and I really want a delta printer, they look awesome.

[Anonymous No.1744276]

>>1744272
>I really want a delta printer, they look awesome
your next post:
>I just got a 3d printer, what should I do with it?

[Anonymous No.1744294]

>>1744272

[Anonymous No.1744297]

>>1744276
You got me, I get off on spending hundreds of dollars on random junk just so I can shitpost a bhutanese soap carving forum asking what to do with it.

[Anonymous No.1744300]

>>1744297
We all already know you are going to pirate dragon dildo model and print them for you and your friends because deltas got the biggest Z for the buck.

[Anonymous No.1744310]

>>1744029
>those dead eyes

[Anonymous No.1744312]

>>1744300
>friends
I have those, I swear.

[Anonymous No.1744370]

How does /diy/ feed the filament?

[Anonymous No.1744372]

>>1744370
Toilet paper-wise.

[Anonymous No.1744373]

>>1744372
You are not helping.

[Anonymous No.1744387]

>>1744373
Clockwise is the proper TP feed for civilizations that flush their toilet paper instead of putting it in the rubbish bin.

I orient my spools on the height of the print. If it's a short print, I do the CCW feed, and prints that will be tall get the CW feed.

[Anonymous No.1744388]

>>1744370
right, but I feed up into my corexy, so its just dependent on where the mount would be. if it was direct I'd go counter-clockwise, just so it feeds into the center instead of the front.

[Anonymous No.1744392]

>>1744370
top pull
>>1744372
this
>>1744373
barbaric

[Anonymous No.1744396]

>>1744387
So by this logic your bigger builds will be fucked on the lower part?

[Anonymous No.1744397]

>>1744392
yeh if you're puling from the side I'd think top pull would be better to avoid filament rollout if the holder fails, prevents tangles with shit from the table on retractions and the filament wants to stay in the spool, rather than gravity pulling it away from the spool, so it won't droop.
>>1744396
this, what a dumb system for a fucking spool. Imagine having to adjust the spool config on every print.

[Anonymous No.1744425]

>>1744396
>>1744397
They both work fine either way on the bowden system. My spool is about even with the center of the z axis. If the z axis is above the spool, and it is feeding CCW, the filament is going to rub on the stepper motor housing. This doesn't happen on a CW feed. If the z axis is below the spool, and it is feeding CCW, the filament has a direct, unobstructed way into the feed.
When you get around to fine-tuning your printers instead of making smears on your print bed, you'll see a difference in the lengevity if your feed gears, more even flow, less zits, and you will have more.autistically tolerant specs.
Rotating the spool off doesn't even take pulling the filament out and can be done in 3 seconds, even mid print.

[Anonymous No.1744428]

>>1744425

>rotating the spool

yikes, friendo

Enjoy getting a twist and extra strain on the filament

[Anonymous No.1744437]

>>1744425
>fine tuning
>not tubing the extruder
>lengevity
100% smoothbrain

[Anonymous No.1744463]

>>1744437
And still your prints are somehow rougher than my frontal lobe.

[Anonymous No.1744473]

>>1744463
>>1744437

[Anonymous No.1744482]

>>1743834
bump

[Anonymous No.1744499]

>>1743834
>>1744482
>Are there any Flex Filaments softer than A80?
Not answering to your usecase but the softest flex filament you can get should be Lay-Fomm 40 from Lay Filament with a shore hardness of A40. It is pretty special though, it is a mixure of water solveable PVA and TPE, you print the part and then put it into water until all the PVA in the printed filament is dissolved. Also comes with a hefty price of $40 for half a pound.

[Anonymous No.1744522]

>>1744272
I have a Flux Delta - it looks cool when it runs and it has a tiny footprint compared to the build volume, but it's not much different than a cartesian

Also this >>1744294

[Anonymous No.1744532]

>>1744370
>>1744425
wtf are you doing.
Mine goes up. And into reverse bowden tube and then direct extruder.
This provides constant pulling force on the filament. No weird pulling and tugging on the filament.

[Anonymous No.1744633]

>>1742198
Maybe add some set screws so you can adjust the friction pads for better fit/adjust with wear. You could just add properly sized holes and glue in a nut and bolt.

[Anonymous No.1744653]

How bad of an idea is it to put my Raspberry Pi 2B+ inside of my heated enclosure instead of outside?

I mean, the printer electronics are inside the enclosure so it should be fine, right?

[Anonymous No.1744672]

>>1744653
yeh, it might throttle the cpu, depending on the chamber temps, but as long as the chamber is cool enough not to overheat the smd components, you would at most need a water cooling or some cooler attached to the back of the board to keep everything running. also plastic parts attached to the pi (not wires or connectors, prob only the cheaper Ethernet cables) might be made of thermoplastic and warp

[Anonymous No.1744674]

>>1744633
Why wouldn't it be better to just swap out the pads?

[Anonymous No.1744680]

>>1744674
An adjustable set screw will get much more life out of each pad. It will be more convenient. You will get more precision out of a set screw. I honestly think it will work better all around. Make sure to use a nut with an o ring so it does not loosen.

[Anonymous No.1744717]

>>1744522
Not sure I trust those magnetic joints, pic related.
Also what I like about the Anycubic is the extrusions have extra slots you can use to build an enclosure without adding any footprint. Adding an enclosure to the Flux (or most cartesians for that matter) seems like considerably more of a pain in the ass.

[Anonymous No.1744728]

>>1744653
>>1744672
I'm not sure which one 2B+ was, does it have wifi?
From what I remember the wifi chips on some Pi models start overheating long before CPU does, I think my 3B started randomly losing signal somewhere between 50-60°C.
Don't count on using wireless from inside a printer enclosure without outside cooling.

[Anonymous No.1744795]

>>1744499
>Lay-Fomm 40
Yeah I just checked its price, its 100€/KG
Thanks for that, ill probably buy some.

[Anonymous No.1744796]

>>1744532
like this?

[Anonymous No.1744813]

How come none you are smart enough to come up with this?
https://youtu.be/E_RvnqVHbnA?t=87
shame on you brainlets

[Anonymous No.1744847]

>>1740882
Carbon fiber filament is a meme, it ruins your nozzle and doesn't contribute any stability/added strength to your parts. CNCKitchen did a video on Carbon Fiber.

>>1741029
That's what you get for 3d printing a nukie-reactor.
No poisonous gasses but like >>1741057
said you don't know what micro-plastics will do to you.

[Anonymous No.1744851]

>>1744813
How come you only found out this is a thing just now?
Shame on you cavedweller.

[Anonymous No.1744890]

>>1744813

That's the "Printrbelt" from years ago dude, get with the times

https://youtu.be/MaycGSPEv38

[Anonymous No.1744894]

>>1744890
Reminded me of the polar printer design back then

[Anonymous No.1744900]

>>1744890
why isn't this everywhere? this si so fucking good a small printer can print 10 meter long prints and the cost is almost identical to regular printers

[Anonymous No.1744905]

>>1744900
-makerbot tried to own the belt
-slicer and support generation software still isnt competent
-adhesion and print surface is high maintenance

[Anonymous No.1744922]

>>1744905
Think a track with pads of glass/plastic as a print platform would be better than the belt that is often seen

[Anonymous No.1744927]

>>1744922
that has the same effect as printing on glass under the film bed. its the flex of the film thats the problem, when the head lifts, it drags the print up and walls get distorted or the print gets detached early

[Anonymous No.1744931]

>>1744796
No, like this.

[Anonymous No.1744932]

>>1744931
Well for that kinda printer layout its the only option anyways....

[Anonymous No.1744933]

>>1744900
>why isn't this everywhere?
Because all of your layers are now whatever angle relative to the bed. So all of your parts have to be designed with that in mind, or you end up with a bucket full of parts that needs supports removed from them.

The alternative and more traditional orientations are limited by patents still. The other issue is that the belt has a finite lifespan. It tends to not last as long as spring steel buildplates.

It would make far more sense to automate plate swaps or just plain part removal. CI bought out NVBots to own their patent for a system that does just that. It has a bulldozer blade that shove the print off the buildplate and down into a receptacle, then restarts the print cycle.

[Anonymous No.1744934]

>>1744932
Not really. Some feed it from above, from like spool rack on the wall. And some have spool holder on top side of the frame. That's the worst imo.

[Anonymous No.1744937]

>>1744927
why not just do z hop then?

[Anonymous No.1744938]

>>1744934
this really is

[Anonymous No.1744950]

>>1744272
Dude at work has one, can go breddy fast but it's a delta so may be harder to tune for those unexperienced anons among us. Also, don't buy a printer unless you have a goal in mind - so what's your goal?

>>1744370
Top feed nigga. Also,
>using filament
You're stuck in 2019.

[Anonymous No.1744952]

>>1744653
>How bad of an idea is it to put my Raspberry Pi 2B+ inside of my heated enclosure instead of outside?
Have done so on a work printer, Pi's are considered consumables at this point.

>>1744813
>>1744890
Neither of those two came up with it either, BlackBelt is the originator - but they're focused on making money serving big business.

>>1744900
Slicing is a pain, and some overhangs are harder with this design. How are you going to enclose it, too? Layer orientation may also suck depending on the load case.
>the cost is almost identical to regular printers
Nope, build surface is much more complicated.

[Anonymous No.1744964]

>>1744950
>so what's your goal
Mostly rc parts and custom electronics cases for various arduino/raspberry pi projects.
I want a delta because of better print area/footprint ratio, I'm running out of space to put shit in my apartment. I don't mind having to tune it, I'd tinker with it even if I didn't have to anyway.

[Anonymous No.1745007]

>>1744950
So are you a resintard? Enjoy the fumes and preparation time.

[Anonymous No.1745070]

How can i prevent my filament from getting tangled while still on the spool? I set up a print, went out for 2 hours and came home to a bunch of spaghetti

[Anonymous No.1745146]

What's the lowest layer height i can get on an Ender 3?

[Anonymous No.1745156]

>>1745146
Lowest I've printed at has been .05, but I suppose you could get down to .04 as well.

[Anonymous No.1745160]

>>1745156
each step is .04, so your .05 was rounded down to .04 or up to .08?

[Anonymous No.1745170]

>>1741043
8 L E G S
L
E
G
S

[Anonymous No.1745195]

>>1745160
Whichever you feel like. Had good luck at .05 and .08, and .12, just depends on how much time you have.

[Anonymous No.1745234]

>>1745007
Nope, pellet master race.

[Anonymous No.1745410]

>>1745195
A full step on the Ender 3 is .04mm, so sticking to multiples of .04 for layer height will always give more consistent layer heights and a better print. .04 will give a better print than .05 because if avoids microstepping

[Anonymous No.1745437]

>>1745410
I can't even see layer lines at .08 without getting super close. I can't imagine what .04 would look like

[Anonymous No.1745444]

>>1745234
Things I'm looking into for the new year...
Pellet extruder
Flexures
ECM tool end and a robot arm to hold it.
Also last year I started work on an inductive brazing rig, but a work "initiative" delayed everything.

[Anonymous No.1745454]

Just got around to installing my Micro Swiss hotend and Winsinn duel gear extruder on my Ender 3 pro and the first thing l printed turned out like this.
Any ideas on how to fix this?

[Anonymous No.1745456]

>>1745454
>buying a chinkshitkit and paying fortunes to upgrade it when he could have just bought a quality machine from the start

[Anonymous No.1745458]

>>1745454
Calibrate your E-steps, come back after that.

@1745456
Please go commit die.

[Anonymous No.1745461]

>>1745458
no, no he's gotta point with microswiss

[Anonymous No.1745464]

>>1745456
>ender 3
>no quality

u wut m8?

[Anonymous No.1745467]

>>1745464
are there really this delusional people here?

[Anonymous No.1745472]

>>1745456
Ok Josef

[Anonymous No.1745477]

>>1745467
with the prusafggt and "it just works" ender buyers it reminds me only 3 anons here know what reprapfirmware is.
borrow a library or ups printer and build your own reprap or mod a cheap kit; lolzbot has their designs online and the hypercube beats a prusa at half the cost.

[Anonymous No.1745480]

>>1745146
also what's the highest I can go?

[Anonymous No.1745487]

>>1745480
Highest I've personally printed at has been .3 height with the stock .4 nozzle, but if you have a larger nozzle you can go taller. I think MakersMuse has a video about it somewhere

[Anonymous No.1745488]

>>1745480
>>1745487
Maximum layer height is 3/4 of nozzle diameter, generally speaking, so 0.3 for a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.6 for a 0.8mm. However, with 0.6x0.8mm, even running at 30mm/s print head speed means you will extrude almost 15mm3/s, which can be enough to where the print head just stops extruding reliably.

Looking down on mere mortals when you're printing 1.0x1.2mm @ 60mm/s is fun though.

[Anonymous No.1745496]

>>1745234
Post pics. I want to see how it works. Is it DIY or bought?

[Anonymous No.1745500]

>>1745496
Suppose the company I work for ordered a 3expensive5you pellet printer, do you really think they'd let me take pictures?

[Anonymous No.1745502]

>>1745500
idk. If it is custom made and trade secret, then maybe not. If it something that is on the market, then why not?
Are you not allowed to get near it with a phone?

[Anonymous No.1745506]

>>1745502
>Are you not allowed to get near it with a phone?
Not even for a quick snapchat. Ruins my streaks.

[Anonymous No.1745513]

>>1745502
this is a common thing, most engineering companies are blocked from using phones; I know one uses a Faraday cage and you can only contact the outside would via text email, but thats mostly military.

[Anonymous No.1745514]

>>1745506
>Not even for a quick snapchat. Ruins my streaks.
I have no idea what you are talking about. I am interested in a printer.
So, this is like a secret printer? There is no like grand reveal; we are so high tech, we just bought super million 3d printer?
Can you tell what are you using it for?

[Anonymous No.1745517]

>>1745514
Last time I checked it wasn't a million (just a bit under), and it's hyuuuuge, so we print hyuuuuuuuge parts with it. Currently using it for testing some new plastic bridge, but that's bound to change as new projects come in. We're into the material development business, and pellets are great for that.

[Anonymous No.1745528]

>>1745517
If you get a chance to take a picture, I would be thankful.
It doesn't seem to be a core of your business, so I don't get the secrecy, but I get that is not your decision.
How do you handle the heat? Does it have heated bed, heated chamber? And what is layer height, extrusion width you work with? Do you finish a product in some way or leave the thick layer lines as it is?

[Anonymous No.1745537]

>>1745477
>only 3 anons here know what reprapfirmware is
Lets have a firmware fight. Why should I put reprapfirmware on my 2012 RAMBo over say Marlin 2.0?
>>1745487
>>1745488
I have personally printed .5mm layers out of a .35mm nozzle. Vasemode only though.

[Anonymous No.1745560]

>>1745537
>.5mm layers out of a .35mm nozzle.
wouldn't the nozzle have to be .5mm to pull that off?

[Anonymous No.1745576]

>>1745560
Nah man it doesn't work like that. You can press 1mm wide .5mm thick extrusions out of a .35mm nozzle. Though it helps if the flat face of the nozzle is 1mm or biger in diameter.

[Anonymous No.1745577]

>>1745537
the skr build is in dev for plebs right now. a 30$ reprapfirmware upgrade is uncontested the best option when its ready, even if you have to use a pi with the tcp/ip stack (although I own a 5 dollar risc board that should be able to run duetwebontrol if it had Ethernet instead of usb. I think older versions have already been ported to those 8266 boards, but they dont have cura so it doesn't matter)
the cost for upgrading a ender to mastero has already been done, for 20$ more than the octo+8bit its not as cheap as just buying a 32bit, but it would be able to run laps around a rambo. it wouldent be that hard to do a marlin 2 vs reprap v3, but even the cheapest duet option still is a "premium" right now.

[Anonymous No.1745578]

>>1745560
drew it up for you.
>>1745577
But all I wanna do is print from SD. My old RAMBo is plenty fast for that.

[Anonymous No.1745582]

>>1745578
yeh but until you understand the power of gcode based settings, where a single gcode line can adjust motor currents and on the fly step and linear advance tuning kinda spoils you. I'd say an old rambo on sd cards would be fast enough for simple motion systems.

[Anonymous No.1745586]

>>1745582
But why would you change your motor currents after the initial setup? Linear advance can be adjusted by g-code in marlin aswell.

[Anonymous No.1745590]

>>1745477
>UP printer
Please, god, no, they're garbage of a whole new type

[Anonymous No.1745593]

>>1745586
multi tool support is the main reason, you can store toolhead configs in the newer version for this reason. Personally I have a direct and a bowden with two extruders stored, but since I use multiple z motors for automated true leveling, its not a dual extruder. the new duets have canbus support for intelligent toolheads, since most tool switching setups should use a duet at that cost. and by linear advance I mean pressure based, there is processing done with acceleration to negate ringing in extrusions so tuning has an additional variable for high speed prints without artifacts.

[Anonymous No.1745596]

New thread >>1745595

[Anonymous No.1745597]

>>1745590
>UP
huh I mean UPS the shipping center. this is reprap, not cancer

[Anonymous No.1745647]

>>1745597
>postal service offering 3D printing services
Did not know that

[Anonymous No.1745651]

>>1745597
the fuck

[Anonymous No.1745804]

>>1741781
post pics of the preschool enclosure.

[Anonymous No.1745806]

>>1745647
yeh, I would think kinkos would have done it, but turns out UPS's printing service now does it in 3d

[Anonymous No.1745810]

>>1745804
I've got some towels on the top to prevent hot air from spilling out of the letter cutouts since it's been a bit chilly and drafty, and the old heatbed I have takes a while to get to ABS temps. This is also my first enclosure so it's using the 1/2" panels, my current one uses 3/4" but doesn't have the alphabet panels. B is for my arm to control the printer, D is for my face, A is for my other arm to easily swap the SD card. F is just a random panel.

[Anonymous No.1745814]

>>1745810
/diy/ portrait mode

[Anonymous No.1746951]

>>1740868
So my harddrive failed, had to get a new one and do a fresh install.
I recall being able to download Inventor software not too long ago by creating a fake student account without the need for institution verification.
Is that no longer a thing anymore? Pic related.

[Anonymous No.1747018]

>>1746951
wtf I just needed to put in an email, I still get them as an alum