/diy/ - Do It Yourself

[Anonymous No.1740651]

I need advice on properly capping a cast iron tee without replacing it. The previous homeowners did a hack job and shoved a prescription pill bottle in the pipe and sealed it with what appears to be a toilet wax ring.

The problem is, the pipe dimensions are really strange. I would have already put a Fernco cap or coupling on it or a test plug but none fit.

I'd really like to seal the stub out pipe rather than pull the lead and oakum out of the hub for fear of damaging the tee.

Tee Hub ID: 4.25"
Tee Hub OD: 5.00"

Stub Out ID: 2.25"
Stub out OD: 3.00"

[Anonymous No.1740654]

Front View

[Anonymous No.1740656]

>>1740651
You get an inflatable plug for these situations.

[Anonymous No.1740657]

>>1740651
I would suggest something like this: https://www.zoro.com/cherne-industries-pipe-plug-mechanical-size-4-in-270245/i/G0793877/

[Anonymous No.1740659]

Top View

>>1740657

That was the first thing I looked at but unfortunately it falls between sizes. It's some weird bastard pipe size.

>>1740656

Any product recommendations?

[Anonymous No.1740660]

>>1740659
Depends where you live. Petersen makes them. Jewgle inflatable plugs.

[Anonymous No.1740661]

>>1740659
They expand pretty good when you tighten them. All hardware stores carry them. Take a tape measure with you and tighten it then measure to see if it would fit.

[Anonymous No.1740664]

>>1740661

I'll double check it to make sure but I remember checking a 2" and a 3" mechanical plug but it fell way between them.

[Anonymous No.1740665]

>>1740660

Thanks for the advice, most of the stuff I am finding is industrial suppliers, so no small scale or direct selling stuff.

As a funny aside, second hit on Amazon was pretty funny. Guess I could stuff one of those in there...

[Anonymous No.1740667]

>>1740665
Try "inflatable pipe plug" on amazon lol even home depot sells one.

[Anonymous No.1740672]

>>1740667

I did shortly thereafter, unfortunately I'm out of tolerance for 2, 3, and 4 inch inflatables by Oately. I'm beginning to see why the hack job is there.

[Anonymous No.1740706]

>>1740651
Is that not a female threaded adapter that all that shit is jammed in? I am used to seeing 4" cast iron with a threaded bushing as a 2" threaded cleanout plug.

You could probably tighten down a 3" ferco rubber cap QuikCap QC103 onto the end of that thing and it hold. Or get a ferno coupling that fits over a 2" hub(socket) to attach a plastic pipe/ cleanout assembly. looks like it'd be fernco coupling 1059-22

If you really wanna go nuts, get one of the clay to IPS ferncos, stretch it all the way back over the largest hub there (the end of the combi-tee) and stick a plug (slip/glue, threaded, or barbed) in the other end. That'd be fernco 1002-44 or 1002-43, it looks like in their catalog

[Anonymous No.1740707]

>>1740651
make a mold out of clay and cast some lead

you can do it with a blowtorch and birdshot shells

[Anonymous No.1740715]

>>1740651
That's the right size to use 2" (nominal) test plugs.
The Oatey/chern hub or cleanout gripper mechanical plugs are
Hub-Fit Gripper #270528 size 2"(nominal) actual size 2.25"-2.45" OR
Clean-Out Gripper #270168 size 2"(nominal), actual size 2.20"-2.5"

[Anonymous No.1740717]

>>1740715

Shit man, you're right. Feel like a moron now. Thanks for the help everyone.

[Anonymous No.1740718]

[Anonymous No.1740720]

>>1740717
Btw cleanouts are "usually" angled upward in a wye tee and not constantly holding back bio matter slush.

Should be able to find something that works tho

[Anonymous No.1740721]

>>1740651

[Anonymous No.1740734]

I've made my own expandable plugs with a slug of rubber out of a horse stall mat cut with a holesaw and a bolt and a couple of big fender washers that almost match the hole size.

[Anonymous No.1740814]

>>1740721
These are caps not plugs

Mostly for the outside end of a male pipe or tube, threaded or smooth, low pressure

[Anonymous No.1740958]

The true, up to code fix is:
Drill out the lead joint. (Make a bunch of drill holes with the biggest bit you can get and then pry out the lead with a screw driver. This sucks and you'll probably break a couple bits fyi)
Then install 4" fernco donut connected to 4" PVC with 4" cleanup (https://www.fernco.com/downloads/installation-instructions/fernco-donut-installation))
You need to stay 4" because this is your end of line cleanout that needs to be the same size as your pipe.
Doing the donut sucks, hard, they're a bitch. Use 100% clear silicone for lubrication and seal on outside and inside of donut.
That's the legit way, it sucks. Otherwise leave what you got, if it doesn't leak and you dont need to use it, dont mess with it.

[Anonymous No.1740960]

>>1740958

Thanks for the advice.

Unfortunately, that's where the sewer exits my house and it has been leaking or else I would just leave it alone.

[Anonymous No.1740964]

>>1740960
Good luck.
Watch videos on how to put those donuts in, they are a bitch and I avoid them if I can, but you cant in your case.
Also, I hope that half inch line to the left of the stack isnt your incoming water from the street. Because if it is, RIP

[Anonymous No.1740966]

>>1740964

Absolutely is, lol. It's galvanized too. Residual pressure is garbage, I know I need to replace it and I know you're supposed to have 10-ft. horizontal and 1.5-ft. vertical. House was built in 1956, what can ya do.

[Anonymous No.1740973]

This is genuinely a good thread. We have:

- OP is legitimately DIYing something
- OP has come up against a somewhat specific or particular problem that hasn't been solved by researching it
- No one has started a fight; everyone is being generally helpful and informative
- At least one valid and proper solution, along with directions, has been provided
- OP is grateful

It's threads like this that redeem /diy/. Good job guys.

[Anonymous No.1740978]

Inflatable butt plug

[Anonymous No.1740979]

>>1740966
I dont know where you live but I would contact the city and get a new 1" line into the house. I have a 3/4" lead service line in my place that would cost about 3k to have them change it out bit since my pressure is good I ain't going to do it.
You should maybe consider it..

[Anonymous No.1740982]

>>1740979

Funny enough, I'm a civil engineer. In our state, we set the meter in a meter box at the property line (not inside the home). The service line is the homeonwers responsibility from the pigtail out of the meter box to the house. So I am SOL there, I've just been dealing with it and plan to replace it if it starts leaking (probably have a good 100+ feet I'd have to run on steep hills); would have to bury 36" for frost in this area too. I'm just being lazy, I know, lol.

[Anonymous No.1741421]

anon's already provided diy and correct solves to issue you raised. drill out old lead/okum in large diameter hub get the frenco gasket and 4"/100mm CI blind plug or you can lead in the blind plug, got a running rope and caulking irons? then go with rubber gasket. other question is why deconstruct? is it leaking?

[Anonymous No.1741475]

>>1740651
Out of curiosity, have you actually pulled the poverty plug out yet? At some point there were probably threads in there, which means you have a few possibilities.

1. The homeowner or “””””””contractor”””””” that removed the old plug was too dumb or lazy to replace it properly. You might have existing threads, which would enable you to thread a new brass plug in.

2. Someone beat out the old plug but didn’t realize they left the old brass threads wedged in, or was too lazy to remove them. If this is the case, grab a hammer and a flathead screwdriver you don’t need and chip away between the old cast iron and brass, it should come out relatively easy, then thread a new brass plug in.

3. The threads are shot, rotted out, or non existent. Try a t-cone, test plug, or lead plug.

Other thought, while this isn’t exactly the /diy/ solution, you may want to consider this. Old brass cleanout caps don’t usually fall out of cast iron fittings, and professionals don’t usually replace them with nigger rigged pill bottle contraptions. I would say there’s a very good chance that this sewer has had issues, and the homeowner tried to cable the line himself or have a drunken uncle do it. You may want to have a reputable shop come out and televise the sewer for you to make sure you don’t have any major issues, and more than likely they would put a proper plug in when they are done at no extra cost.

[Anonymous No.1741484]

>>1741475

Thanks for the insight, I didn't even give thought to threads still being there. I've been to afraid to remove the hack job for fear of not having a good way to cap it until a good solution can be employed.

I've ordered a mechanical plug with the right tolerances to cap the stub out after I remove the hack job. That should stop the leak and let me decide if I want to go the full nine to remove the stub out and install a rubber hub like the other poster recommended. When I remove the hack job, I'll also be able to see if there are threads.

A buddy of mine is a licensed plumber and he camera'd my service lateral to the main. It's PVC until the main and switches over to VCP, which is really common in our area. Unfortunately, the morons bought thin wall pipe so the crown is deflecting but it hasn't failed. I'm nlt going to bother replacing it until I need to.

[Anonymous No.1741486]

>>1741484
Alright, keep the thread bumped. I’m licensed as well, but all I really do these days is televise sewers, so I probably rio into 20+ cleanouts a week, I’ll keep an eye on it.

[Anonymous No.1741491]

>>1741486

Thanks for the help anon. Plug is set to come in on Tuesday, house-sitting for the folks on New Years so should be able to start tackling it mid-to-late next week.

[Anonymous No.1741686]

>>1741484
In going to say 99% chance no threads sadly. I've broke up a lot of cast hubs for scrap and the only time I've seen threaded to lead joint is in 1-1/2" or 2" when doing a loop of galvanized instead of a full blown union.
Your right in it's either the plug for temporary/long term or the donut for a "true" fix
If sticking with the plug, after you drill out the lead and oakum, brush the hub with a wire brush, then take 100% silicone and put it on the hub walls, paper towel it off to get any residue off, then apply new silicone right before you do your plug. Silicone is magic and saves your ass more than anything else

[Anonymous No.1741690]

>>1741686
>take 100% silicone
do you mean 100% silicone spray lubricant or 100% silicone caulk?

[impact !Ls9RqHyZwg No.1742486]

>>1740651

It's metal, huh?

I don't recall seeing anyone mention to weld it.

Just saying.

[Anonymous No.1742520]

>>1742486
Cast iron doesn’t weld

[Anonymous No.1742526]

>>1742486

Cast iron doesn't weld too good anon.

[Anonymous No.1742527]

>>1742520
https://lincolnelectric.com/en-us/support/welding-how-to/Pages/welding-cast-iron-detail.aspx

[impact !Ls9RqHyZwg No.1742553]

>>1742520
>>1742526


Low and slow. This was done up the road from me, apparently.

Worth mentioning that in high school I was taught that if you could stick a magnet on it OR remove material with a file it could be welded.


https://youtu.be/0IkpAsNDbOo

[Anonymous No.1742589]

>>1742486
welding on cast iron can make it crack apart from the heat stress theres a reason its held together with lead its easier

[Anonymous No.1742592]

Yes it is possible to weld it, but it still sucks to weld...

Much better if you don't have to weld it.

[Anonymous No.1742595]

>>1742592
imagine cracking the fitting then having to pull it all out

[Anonymous No.1742723]

>>1740651
As a licensed plumber, the right way is to call a licensed plumber. Pouring a horizontal joint is not a diy 4 chan job. It requires special caulking chisels and a good amount of skill. If you hit the tee too hard you'll break it. Call somebody

[Anonymous No.1742724]

>>1742723

Thanks for the advice. That's why I am planning on just using a mechanical plug for now. Taking out the pill bottle and wax shouldn't be above my abilities. I know removing the lead and oakum is above my capability so I will save that for another day... and person, lol.

If worst came to worse, I can excavate outside to replace the fitting with PVC, but I'm trying to avoid that.

[Anonymous No.1743252]

>>1740973
You patronising prick!

[Anonymous No.1743738]

OP here, I took the prescription pill bottle cap out today. What I found was the remnants of a lead joint, so the mechanical plug wouldn't fit.

So, I used the advice given in this thread and drilled out the lead joint. I know they had recommended to drill out the fitting joint and install a donut, which I understand is the correct code compliant method. However, I wasn't comfortable making that leap just yet. I figured I could use this lead joint as practice and still have one more opportunity if I botched it.

[Anonymous No.1743739]

Pleased to report the lead removal was a success. Funny enough, the other poster was dead on, I found threads under the lead. Unfortunately, the radial drilling process destroyed them.

[Anonymous No.1743741]

So, after the lead was removed and the interior of the pipe was cleaned, I installed the mechanical plug. I've been running water for around 15 minutes to test it and am pleased to say I have no leaks.

I really appreciate all of the advice everyone has given me. I genuinely couldn't have knocked it out without you guys.

I think this is a good enough temporary fix for now. I will consider either having a donut installed or even replacing the fitting entirely. As you can see from the attached picture, I have good terminal cleanout points and it's not leaking anymore so I feel like this has been a success. Thanks again everyone!

[Anonymous No.1743742]

Removed lead picture.

[Anonymous No.1743745]

Closeup of mechanical plug.

[Anonymous No.1743751]

>>1740665
I would pay to see if the girth would hold it.

[Anonymous No.1743754]

>>1743751

Hahahah, it certainly would be a good conversation piece. Pulling that bastard out like excalibur.

[Anonymous No.1743817]

>>1743738
>>1743739
>>1743741
>>1743742
>>1743745
Thanks for the update OP. Glad you could still plug it even with the drilled threads.
Good luck and best wishes

[Anonymous No.1744000]

>>1743739
I’m always right about drain shit.

[Anonymous No.1745748]

>>1740734
Slick idea and that matting is tough. I'll keep it in mind for quick repairs I won't want to order parts for.