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1726943 No.1726943 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

>Arms race edition

>Usual OP is late edition
>I can't do collages edition
>Half the pictures in the collage are mine edition
Take your pick.

Old Thread >>1722570

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy

>Need help with prints? Go to:

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 7-9-2019]
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free:

>> No.1726944 [DELETED] 


>> No.1726976

>How to make a new /3DPG/ thread
Only make a new thread when the old ones is well past bumplimit.
/diy/ is a slow board so the thread won't die within a day, when it hits page 5 you might as well make a new thread.
Make a link in the old thread to the new one, remember to put /3DPG/ in the subject line, and use the copypasta below.

Save some of the images from the previous thread, upload them to:
Use them to create an new image for the OP.

>> No.1727015
File: 104 KB, 1195x865, 1575272601859.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Reposting from last thread:
First printed the cube on the left with a custom designed extruder, had some severe underextrusion, axes weren't calibrated, some other minor problems. Mostly ghosting resulting from that inconsistent extruder.
Calibrated the axes properly, and installed a Bondtech QR. Set E-steps to their recommended value (not sure if that's a good idea without calibrating E-steps, but hey), and printed the cube on the right. Ghosting due to the extruder is gone, but with the X-Y bed it's still got some scruffy looking corners - so I'm going to do some acceleration tuning next. what's the deal with the top surface though? The ''outlines'' are perfect, but the middle square is extremely rough. Overextrusion with the nozzle dragging through it? Anybody got an idea here?
>Yes I read the sticky
>No Simplify doesn't have a solution

>Printer make & model: Custom built, X,Y-bed with a Z-head for research purposes
>Filament type/brand: Nylon 12, unknown brand
>Bed & extruder temperature: 265C head, 80C bed, 0 cooling, no enclosure (yet)
>Print speed: 30mm/s max
>Nozzle size: 0.8mm
>Layer height: 0.2mm
>Wall number: 3
>Top/bottom layers: 8
>Infill: 30%
>Retraction: 0.5mm @ 10mm/s
>Brim lines: 10 (8mm total)

PRevious suggestions: overextrusion (solved with E-step calibration), too many top layers (solved by reducing top layers). Any other ideas while I test the latter theory?

>> No.1727040

contrast on the top isn't great, it's hard to see...

Dragging: seems unlikely, that usually leaves obvious furrowing with balled up debris along the edges. But... I've not yet used nylon specifically. Maybe it doesn't ball up.

You watched it right... what does it look like the problem is during the run?

>> No.1727043
File: 1.04 MB, 1280x720, Cybermeme.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I made the Memetruck

>> No.1727045

>Didn't print it with broken windows
Still a good job, anon

>> No.1727048


Ender 5 for 260 on sale for 2 more hours do I pull the trigger?

>> No.1727049

Dude, nylon is a difficult plastic to print. Go buy yourself from PLA instead, it's much better.

>> No.1727053


>> No.1727055

Sure looks like dragging to me, but can't confirm as I don't exactly have the time to monitor a printer at my job.

Works fine (TM) on PLA. Works even better if I use CF-Nylon, but the regular stuff gives some bad surface finishes.

>> No.1727056

For that price you might as well

>> No.1727058

Any info on printing sabots? Also what are the bullets in your pic?

>> No.1727060

The only concern I have looking at that is the cantilevered bed. Heavier prints might droop the bed and cause issues. But most people just print tiny stuff so it's not a big issue. Like I've seen very few people using an entire roll of 1kg filament much less more than that

>> No.1727073

Shit I already ordered and I dont know how significant an issue that would be? I want to make glock magazines and pokemon figures and whatever else..

>> No.1727081

>Any info on printing sabots?
None that I'm allowed to talk about given my NDA.
>Also what are the bullets in your pic?
Regular old PLA, in fancy 12 gauge shorty slugs for a rifled gun.

>> No.1727083

If it is a problem, which I honestly doubt it would be except for very heavy prints (ie not Glocks or Pokemons), it would manifest as a very slight arch backward on a tall thing. It's insignificant.

>> No.1727086

If you realy did this then holy fuck good job man. btw what did you use for motors and steering and etc ?

>> No.1727097

No it's perfectly fine for that. I bet even 1kg will hold up just fine which you'll probably never use in one print. 1kg is a lot for prints desu

>> No.1727108

My autism isn't on that level yet, it's modeled on a Kyosho Mini-Z kit.

>> No.1727165

Old OP is a faggot, he didn't included the OP template. praise new OP!
New OP didn't included the OP template, shit on the new OP!

>> No.1727186

Does anyone have the leaked bad dragon stl's mentioned in the last thread, or any dick type files at all? I've got a bottle of silicone going bad that is begging to be poured into a 3d printed mold.

>> No.1727197

last time i checked it was quite easy to extract the 3d files from the 3d preview in their shop

>> No.1727215

Nice. Very nice!

>> No.1727223
File: 16 KB, 346x514, Red.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Is it normal that i get slightly bent prints like warped? I got elegoo mars and for now i use transparent red anycubic resin, it happens no mather what leyer hight is.
Ir sein shit, or too low temperature in room(i got like 19 celsius)?

>> No.1727227
File: 339 KB, 1600x900, Screenshot (11).png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>last time i checked it was quite easy to extract the 3d files from the 3d preview in their shop
Wow, anon! I didn't know it was that easy! Thanks a bunch!

>> No.1727334

Post a pic, that sounds like improper model orientation or not enough support. Make sure your stuff is at 45 degrees.

>> No.1727378
File: 1.38 MB, 1034x873, sneed.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1727381

Bros what's the resin processing workflow - cure, snip supports and sand? Sand before curing? Do I need a mask to not kill myself before my second print?

>> No.1727383

Some resin are shit. I stopped using formlab tough resin because it warp as fucking hell.

>> No.1727456

The fuck is that

>> No.1727464

The webdev soup on the right...
... or the, uh, dog dingus, on the left?

>> No.1727482

I love it.

>> No.1727500

Print->Solvent Bath->Support Removal->Cure-> Sanding

You want to remove supports while the model is flexible, the curing process makes it more brittle and more likely to snap, and you can't sand something thats soft on the outside.

>> No.1727508

Remember to wet sand. Resin dust isnt good for your lungs.

>> No.1727539

Wow it really is that easy, thanks. I better get my printed back up and running.

>> No.1727569
File: 396 KB, 800x800, 49107439-origpic-9b7a73-0[1].png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I'm planning to get a second printer soon.
I have an Ender 5 and would love something with dual extruders. Does anyone here have any experience with the Flashforge Creator Pro? The direct drive and case are great bonuses, especially for the cost. Or should I check out anything else? I can spend ~1000€

>> No.1727580
File: 3.59 MB, 4188x3141, tol_top.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

So the library I work at provides 3D printing services. This is the result I got when I had them run a tolerance tester, and they made a general quality tester, too. Only the .5mm tolerance came clean. How can the print quality be increased? I didn't see anything on the simplify3D site that looked like an obvious candidate for consideration. I'll provide pics. Mostly looking for better tolerances, but better lettering would be nice, too.

I was given these specifications:
It is a Makerbot Replicator+
It is Makerbot PLA
The bed is unheated,
The extruder is set to 215C
The print speed in 90 mm/sec

>> No.1727582
File: 3.39 MB, 4188x3141, tol_bottom.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1727583
File: 3.18 MB, 4188x3141, tester_1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1727584

Thats horrible, it looks like its over-extruding filament, so either their flow settings are wrong in the slicer or their extruder calibration is off, but I dont know if makerbots let you adjust that. Just try a new print with the flow turned down a few percentage points, underextruded looks better than over, but itll be weaker.

>> No.1727585
File: 3.03 MB, 4188x3141, tester_2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1727586

Also the nozzle is too far from the bed so it's giving you an ugly bottom. I'm surprised the print even stuck to the bed well enough to finish, so you need to re-level the bed too.

>> No.1727587
File: 3.10 MB, 4188x3141, tester_3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


Cool, I'll see if I can get one running with lower extrusion. I'll also see what slicer they use.

I'll mention this, too.

>> No.1727588

>The print speed in 90 mm/sec
Yeah, back that off to 50-60mm/s.

>> No.1727597

We can't find extrusion rate settings in the MakerBot software. We're going to run a print with lower temps to see if that slows extrusion.

I'm told that the print was on a raft, and oddly, angled off of the bed.

If we can't get the quality better with lower temps, we'll try lower speeds, too.

>> No.1727601

I am told that the 90mm/s is only for infill. The outer surfaces are printed at 40mm/s

>> No.1727605

It might also be called flow rate, i dont think changing the temperature will do much. The issue looks like the printer is trying to extrude too much plastic into place, so the excess smushes up like that. I would be shocked if the makerbot slicer didnt have a way to adjust the extruder flow rate.

>> No.1727612

We didn't see anything that suggested a change of flow rate.
This list uses outdated UI, and some settings that are not applicable to the setup, but I didn't see any settings that are not on this list; and the list doesn't have any explicit extrusion rate settings, unless I am missing something.

>> No.1727621

Try changing the "Filament Diameter" in the extruder section. Test it with larger diameter values, maybe 5% larger. This might trick the printer into extruding less plastic since it thinks its using a thicker filament, but its kind of hacky.
That seems like a pretty limited piece of software compared to modern slicers.

>> No.1727622

You should get a Prusa.

>> No.1727624

We'll consider that, thanks. Currently waiting on the lower temp test. I'll post results later.

>> No.1727769

>enclose a prusa
>it dies

>> No.1727873

Quick question. Why dont msla printers use the salt water to have the resin float. That way theres no need for consumeables and the print should be faster since its not worried about ripping into the electronics.

>> No.1727907

-pigments mix into the water.
-the seperation between the water and the resin is not as clean as you expect, there are bubbles of resin in the water and vice versa.
-settletimes are longer.

>> No.1727917

Heat the damn bed. 50-60C is usually the magic range for bed heat

>> No.1727957

How the fuck can I convert a SKP file to STL for printing? Fusion opens it fine but gives errors when I convert the meshes to solid bodies. Is there an easier way?

>> No.1727959
File: 560 KB, 2337x2419, 1549894087794.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

First multicolor brush paint job. could have sanded and fucked up the base coat but good learning experience
I still really prefer spray paint

>> No.1727965

>meshmixer tree support

oh dear god its just an obj

hmm there is a nonpolar, nonvolitile solvent that would work in that place tho. a defoamer/antisurfactant might be needed for the other problems

>> No.1727966

skp as in Sketchup?
There is a plugin called skp to dxf that can also generate stl files.

>> No.1728001

Sorry, didn't specify that it's downloaded from the internet, I don't actually have sketchup. I tried installing the free version but it complains that the file was created using 2018 version and won't open it. What the hell.

>> No.1728047
File: 98 KB, 720x900, resintentacles.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I wish the downloaded models were higher resolution, but they print beautifully.

>> No.1728060

I want to get a 3d printer because it looks fun, although other than the odd models for painting and toys for my kids, I have no idea what I'd use it for.

Do any of you make any money with your prints?

>> No.1728063 [DELETED] 
File: 35 KB, 297x452, Annotation 2019-12-04 175723.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

its probably not the best solution but applying subdivision and then the displacement modifier with the normal map as texture can can restore the details in the mesh to some degree in blender

>> No.1728066
File: 37 KB, 294x498, Annotation 2019-12-04 180105.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

its probably not the best solution but applying subdivision and then the displacement modifier with the normal map as texture can restore the details in the mesh to some degree in blender

>> No.1728068
File: 35 KB, 474x474, Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Oh god! I can't decide what to print first!!!

>> No.1728077

Thank you blender senpai, I'll have to give that a try when I print them larger.

>> No.1728087

I have a lot of petg how do I make sure it prints strong? Like if I’m making a loom how do I make sure the pegs don’t break

>> No.1728091

Someone pls rip all the models and post them to Dropbox or something

>> No.1728092

print slow, print hot, align layers along the direction that needs to be strong.

>> No.1728100

If you just want a couple i can throw up a few for you now.

Look up CNCkitchen on youtube, he has tests for prints strength, i think its mostly for PLA, but you can probably extrapolate. Beyond that it's up to your ability to properly design them and algin for printing. Shells are better than infill for strength too.

>> No.1728118
File: 3.32 MB, 3237x4316, bad_top.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I'm (>>1727580) back.

The lower temps didn't help at all. I busted open the .30mm test ring to see if it was just the bottom that was causing the binding, but it looks to be binding along the length of it, too.

We (and not by my suggestion) tried a 195°F print that ended just about as you'd expect.

The cold print was done without a raft, and the bottom looks even worse for it.

I've got a Benchy in the works to see if that doesn't make the issues more obvious.

Can MakerBot printers be used with non-MakerBot slicers? I was told by the guys that they have to use the MakerBot software, but I'm not so sure about that.

Oddly enough, for some reason, we don't have a diameter option.

Not an option, unless we get a separately powered and controlled bed. The raft is meant as a means of making up for this fact; I am unsure how effective a heated bed would be in aiding the print quality.

The prints are on rafts. What makes for the ugly bottoms, I do not know. Would disabling the fan for the bottom layers help?

>> No.1728119
File: 3.06 MB, 3237x4316, bad_bottom.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1728120
File: 3.42 MB, 3237x4316, blech_top.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1728128
File: 3.54 MB, 3237x4316, blech_bottom.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1728129
File: 35 KB, 888x568, filament_diameter.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

If the option isnt there then you're likely out of options on the makerbot slicer. Simplify3D is a much better program and can supposedly export for makerbot machines, but its paid software unless you want to steal it or use a trial.

>> No.1728130

Hmm. Well this sucks.
Would we be able to get some significantly better quality prints out of a different slicer?

>> No.1728132

I've got you anon.

>> No.1728143

I'm fairly certain that your issue is over-extrusion, so yes another slicer would allow you to adjust that and improve your print quality. That however doesn't look like its a great printer in the first place, so there is a limit to how much it can improve. I would say that if you pirated a copy of simplify 3d you would at least be able to get the test gauge to print properly, but maybe not enough to justify a $150 piece of software. You might also have a mechanical problem and I could be wrong and this all moot.

>> No.1728147
File: 632 KB, 1920x1080, Shit v1.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Just thought I'd share this. I'm making an arduino controller box to grow mushrooms.

>> No.1728151

True, true. Pirating isn't an option here (state university library and all) but I'll see who I have to woo to spend the money on a license, or talk about alternative printers in general. Thanks for the feedback.

>> No.1728152

how big is it? it doesn't look like it would fit all that many mushrooms
or are you just growing really tiny ones?

>> No.1728155

That looks really cool. What all will it control? I've had a passing interest in growing some mushrooms of my own.
I'm also interested in the concern brought by >>1728152. Is that just an enclosure for the measurement and control devices?

>> No.1728157
File: 1.10 MB, 4000x3000, IMG_20191201_125301.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Lol, the mushrooms are grown on a storage plastic container. The box controls the lights, the air filter, and the humidity.
Lights are on 16h a day the filter puts fresh air inside without contaminating the mushrooms and there's one of those piezo vaporizers to keep the humidity high.

>> No.1728165

That's neato. Do you have a setup plan or design, and would you mind sharing it?

>> No.1728176

Ty sweetie

>> No.1728191
File: 1.92 MB, 4000x3000, IMG_20191204_211630.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I'm mostly making it as I go. I just made this design so you can see what I'm after. I haven't added temperature control because my place is always above 20C, which is ideal to grow mushrooms, so I just need to keep the humidity high, the air clean and provide light for 16h a day.

The controller box will have a breadboard with an arduino nano, an RTC module to keep the time accurately and three mosfets inside, each mosfet will switch on and off each thing depending on the time of the day or the humidity inside the box. I could just make a PCB, but for a one-off thing I'd rather just cram everything into the box.

I'll be growing lion's mane, you just buy a syringe with spores on ebay and put the spores in an sterile medium in which they can grow. Reading online it seems the substrate for lions mane is made out of hardwood pellets and wheat bran. I've seen people growing them in bags, but it'd rather put the substrate in jars because it's easier to sterilize all the jars inside a pressure cooker before putting the spores in. The main problem is contamination, things can get moldy in no time. I've grown mushrooms before and by the end of the month the substrate was all moldy and had to be thrown out. Growing mushrooms is quite easy and they usually grow very fast, the main problem as I said is contamination. Hopefully the filter will provide clean air and make the substrate last longer, having multiple batches and better yields before cleaning everything and starting again.

I've still have to finish the arduino sketch, but I'll post updates along the way.

>> No.1728200

A friend is giving me an Anet A8 he built, never powered up and forgot about for about a year. Is he trying to burn my house down?

>> No.1728273

All of the models can be downloaded here:

>oh dear god its just an obj
You can download bumpmaps that you can burn in the obj for more detail, like this >>1442815

>> No.1728387

anon please dont get me involved, I know how to do a texture displacement modifier.
I just commented on the ease of ripping, I steal from sketchfab ever few weeks for figures

>> No.1728391

Where did you get the STL?

>> No.1728400

>True, true. Pirating isn't an option here (state university library and all) but I'll see who I have to woo to spend the money on a license, or talk about alternative printers in general. Thanks for the feedback.

Why don't you spend your own money?

>> No.1728405

it never was an stl, https://www.artstation.com/artwork/yvwm5
reprinting with better plastic so I can use less base/primer to hide the unsandable parts

>> No.1728440

Why would he spend $150 on an overpriced slicer when the ender the 3 was on sale for $160 a few days ago

>> No.1728443

Can you download the file for free or do I have to message the artist? The sculpt looks great.

>> No.1728445

I stole it bud
if you want a copy I can send upload one without the textures

>> No.1728447 [DELETED] 

That would be great. You can email it to [email protected]

>> No.1728448 [DELETED] 

delete that, ill upload it to thingiverse

>> No.1728452
File: 8 KB, 393x97, 1552088206933.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

fuck I broke thigiverse

>> No.1728457

Anybody got some paid STL to share for Dungeon and Dragon? Artisan Guild has some nice stuff

>> No.1728468
File: 2.81 MB, 4032x2268, 20191204_215502.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Looking into making my first printer, I'm wondering if there is a generally accepted best extruder and hot end combo as well as hotbed. Not looking to break the bank, was looking at the V6 but also wanted to know if a Direct or Bowden system would work better especially since the hot end wont move on the Z axis.

I have some very rough sketches of how this thing would work. The bed itself moves up and down on the Z axis and the rest on X+Y. Basically a DIY Creality Ender 5

>> No.1728540

direct dual drive (geared) hemera/titan aqua with your choice of e3d hot ends and a ruby nozzle.
if you want cheaper just the hemera kit, or a bondtech clone kit for 1/4th the cost
unless you're going fast with a corexy or a delta the direct is fine.
an basic cube kit looks like what you're making, the 2nd printer I had was like that. I can tell you right now you should go for an inexpensive corexy kit for a cheap, easy to upgrade path to insane print speeds like 250mm/s quick jerking travel speeds with no lost steps.


>> No.1728550
File: 133 KB, 738x974, Bigbrain.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>Ruby nozzle

>> No.1728552

i own none, but if you wanna work with metal shavings in your nozzle...

>> No.1728559

Cura and Slic3r are free, try those.

Probably, just flash a fresh version of Marlin with thermal runaway enabled.

Bondtech and E3D make good extruders, I personally like the BMG. For hotends there's really no reason not to go with an E3D V6 - unless you really need a Volcano (and you probably don't). For an X,Y-head you want to reduce inertia, so bowden is the way to go, just accept that you won't print flexibles as easy.

>being poor

>> No.1728607
File: 77 KB, 599x900, 1552309487023.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>tripfags in /3dpg/
>replying to tripfags

>> No.1728613

I clicked though the thread watcher I'm usually anonymous

>> No.1728652

Nah, mang. So last decade. Mosquito with a Zesty and a NozzleX. Best of all worlds.

>> No.1728656

I've had the misfortune of trying to tweak the settings on a makerbot at work. Many of the settings are hidden and can only be accessed by altering the plaintext config file directly.

>> No.1728657

A bigger nozzle (such as 0.6 mm) in my experience also helps to greatly increase the strength of printed parts. As a bonus, you print a lot faster

>> No.1728708
File: 2.02 MB, 4608x2112, IMG_20191205_102830.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

So my kid unwound a couple spools of ABS around the christmas tree as decorations. Now I've got two tangled heaps of plastic wtf do I do with them

>> No.1728716


You can still print with em, you'll just need to stick around and baby the loose filament while you're printing with it.

>> No.1728724

Make one of these things and get the filament back on the empty spools.

>> No.1728731

Smother them in their sleep.

>> No.1728756

Neat. The solution always seemt to be about 3d printing.

>> No.1728759

Let him spool it back up again while making a game put of it.
I did this and he has never done it again but he did like doing it

>> No.1728761

Are Cura and Slic3r MakerBot friendly? MakerBot printers require proprietary MakerBot code.

>> No.1728785

I'm pretty decent with solidworks, but blender makes my brain hurt. How straightforward is it to enhance these models with those bumpmaps, and will it actually make them noticeably more detailed at larger sizes?

>> No.1728787

its basically just what i did in the screenshot
add a subdivision modifier with something like 4 subdivisions and then add a displacement modifier and select the normal map / bump map as texture , set the direction to "rgb to xyz" and texture coordinates to "UV" and then find a strength value that looks acceptable
the rest is just hitting apply on both modifiers and then saving the mesh

>> No.1728792

Well, if you wanted to you could make something that works just as well by whittling it out of wood. The only tool you'd need for that is a knife. It would probably even be quicker.
But printing is much more convenient.

>> No.1728796

you didn't leave them on? That was reasonably creative.

>> No.1728797

Oh god.
I've unwound and rewound filament before, but only about twenty metres worth. That looks like two whole spools. Good grief.

>> No.1728802

Neither of you has ever worked in a pre-CNC machine shop, and it shows. That would have been a wind-down breaktime activity. You could even chat while you did it without worrying about blowing a cut.

>> No.1728826

Thanks anon, printing it right now
We left it up for a while and took some Christmas card pictures, but I convinced her that we should probably take them down to print some more things

>> No.1728830
File: 210 KB, 1199x498, 1575572732062.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Anyone have experience with those? currently stuck on a glas bed with painters tape. Im tired of applying new tape after each print and i have warping issues. Will spring steel PEI bed help me or just be a money sink?

>> No.1728855

Jag har använt primas PEI och den är riktigt bra.

>> No.1728857

Good PEI spring steel sheets are the best freakin' thing ever. No idea if that's a good one. Go powdercoat if you can.

>> No.1728883

Superbra! Tror du man kan klippa i materialet utan att förstöra det? Min bed är 220*300 så lite svårt att hitta färdiga bitar.

>> No.1728889


I use printbite and am happy with it. This flexible sheet looks way too expensive...

>> No.1728922

Ja, det är nog inga problem. Skär upp PEIn längs där du vill klippa och peta bort det, sen kan du nog bara ta en stålsax eller nån slags såg på plåten.

>> No.1728953

for a magnetic plate its cheap, but I still use blue painters tape or a glass bed with a pei sheet if I want shiny bottoms

>> No.1728964

I just bought a 18€ pei/spring steel sheet on aliexpress. Still not sure how to attach it magnetically to the bed. Guess I'll go with clips.

>> No.1728982
File: 2.54 MB, 4640x3480, IMG_20191205_175440.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

are there any other settings that can make my FDM printer print 40-50mm high minis better? surfaces like the body do well but clothing, especially flowy ones, don't do well

0.05 layer height
20 speed
100 infill
0.08 wall size
9999999 top
0 bottom
180F nozzle
0.2mm nozzle

>> No.1728995
File: 2.35 MB, 4640x3480, IMG_20191205_185147.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

so far these are arguably the best quality I've gotten so far. highest one stands at 45mm

>> No.1729020

Do you guys have any favorite brands for different filaments?

>> No.1729026

Give in and buy a resin printer. They're finally cheap, I love mine and it spits out minis like crazy.

>> No.1729032

yeh with that water soluble resin I see no reason why not if you have the change, other than the smell.

>> No.1729037

ventilation and curing and all the necessary stuff sounds cancerous

>> No.1729055

Keep it in a garage, wear a mask, and wear gloves, its not going to melt your skin if you're not an idiot.

>> No.1729062

We say that, but home resin printing hasn't been a thing long enough to be sure it's true. We might well get a wave of skin or lung cancer in a few decades, traceable to home resin printing.

Same shit goes for filament printing, to be honest. Even "safe" plastics like PLA. "Microplastic in brain found to contribute to Alzheimers, home 3D printers suspected to blame, in other news earlier today a Czech guy was lynched".

>> No.1729085

Put it in an enclosure with a ventilation duct going out. Basically a spraybooth. Model makers have been playing with lacquer paints which were far more noxious (prior to high VOC paint thinners being banned) for decades

>> No.1729102

While we're talking about resin, does anyone have a large resin printer? The 8x5x10" or whatever ones like the Epax 10.1" and Phrozen or the new MSLA/LCD Peopoly. Do they have any problems with bed sticking? Formlabs kind of solved it with bed tilting but these chinese ones don't have anything, which sounds fine for the small printers but how about the big ones?

>> No.1729122

OP, you fucked up if people can't find this thread by searching for 3DP

>> No.1729145

completely wrong. I've got three of them enclosed, one of which prints at 350C, and they're still alive.

>> No.1729158

What about the bed and ambient temp

>> No.1729165

I didn't measure the ambient temp but the high-temp printer's bed's kept at 115-120C consistently, and the other two can print ABS all night long

>> No.1729172

Probably around 50C if it's not actively heated I'm guessing

>> No.1729307


How do you get the magnetic sheet to stick to the aluminium bed? Do you need some sort of special bed to use it with? AFAIK the prusa mk42 beds have magnets embedded in them for calibration.

>> No.1729312

just drill a hole into the bed and glue a magnet in place on all four corners
bonus drill from the bottom side and leave a millimeter or slightly less of material so the magnets are completely invisible
obviously make sure both the glue and magnets can withstand the temperature of your bed

>> No.1729319
File: 198 KB, 800x800, New-Magnetic-Print-Bed-Tape-Heat-Paper-For-3D-Printer-Print-Sticker-220-214-300mm-Square.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Most magnetic build surfaces come with a magnet "plate". You just peel the paper away from it and stick it on the bed. Use a credit card to get it on without air bubbles, it's pretty basic shit. If you didn't get a magnet with your magnetic surface, just go buy one. They're all the same.
No, the Prusa bed magnets are for the bed leveling system. Actual magnetic print surfaces are used with stickers.

Pic related is what you get when you buy a magnetic print surface. The black thing is the actual bed surface that you print on, the thing with 3M written all over it is the thing you glue to the bed. A decent one has a heat resistant glue, but unless you regularly go over 120 degrees bed temperature heat isn't really a problem. It's basically the same thing as those flexible fridge magnets, except instead of a picture on the back it's got glue.

>> No.1729509

more area to stick?

>> No.1729514

Post a pic or i cant help you

>> No.1729530

>We apologise for the fault in the subtitles. Those responsible have been sacked.

>> No.1729548


The magnets in embedded in the Prusa bed hold the steel sheets down. The auto leveling system then triggers off of them.

>> No.1729612

Anyone have any predictions or thoughts on when 3D mapping of objects will be generally applicable at low price points? I'm not very interested in tweaking code, and would be much more interested in being able to 3D scan things that my printer could then copy.

Also, when will machine vision and AI become competent to watch an ongoing print and adjust parameters on the fly to resolve some of the problems of overextrusion, temperature variance, and etc.? Is this even on the radar?


>> No.1729643

Maybe look into a Da Vinci 3 in 1

>> No.1729654

Great anon, thanks!

This is a superb beginning to that capability becoming a feature of 3D printers generally.

>> No.1729777

Where did you get the STLs?

>> No.1729838

Got a free roll of TPU and aside from sex toys, what's it good for?

>> No.1729841

do you have a dual extruder?

>> No.1729850

That's a horrible recommendation. Their printers are overpriced and every other model include DRM or proprietary slicers.
3D mapping of objects at pricepoints you can afford will usually result in mesh files that require a huge amount of time in mesh editing software to clean them up enough that they will be compatible with printing. If you're not already familiar with doing low to mid polygonal modeling or sculpting then you're in for a rude surprise. Any device you buy below $2k isn't going to give you a watertight mesh that you can simply turn around and print without any touchups.

>> No.1729856

I wish. Got a free A8 Clone with two spools of PLA and a spool TPU.

>> No.1729861

with that you could do some cool hybrid prints, stiff pla and tpu is a nice combo.
IDK, you could print wallets and key chain figures that won't break in your pocket. Anything that goes under compression like controller grips or wearables could be done.

>> No.1729862

Christmas must be the A8 clear out season because I got a free one this week too.

>> No.1729866

where are you guys getting free printers, I want free filament, creigslist here sells them at 10$ a pop for hatchbox(the typical 20-15$ msrp roll) or 5$ in bulk

>> No.1729871
File: 51 KB, 996x512, oats.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Thanks for the ideas.
Hello, my A8 brother, will you share the mofsets?

>> No.1729879

There's a 3D Printer wishing well in Kemijarvi, Suomi that will grant you a printer if you toss in an old Markka (sorry, no Euros). Ask the local reindeer herder named Teemu who will likely be drinking at the Pubi,fi bar on Jaakonkatu to take you there. He will guide you for the price of a reindeer and peach pizza at Pubi.fi. Dat man loves his reindeer and peach pizza.

True story/

>> No.1729890
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>> No.1730006
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printed this nude body just to see if my printer was fucked all the time or fucked only when doing clothing on minis. looks like clothing and dynamic poses are where the prints look funky. how can I improve my prints of dynamic poses?

also, what settings should I use for supports so I don't miss out on ass detail on the support side (continued)

>> No.1730007
File: 2.27 MB, 4640x3480, IMG_20191207_052350.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

support side.

>> No.1730009

belt loops and non-scratch objects (like coasters or furniture bumpers)

>> No.1730070
File: 1.09 MB, 2560x1440, 20191126_204230.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

FPV kwad parts

>> No.1730186

Marlin or Skynet for firmware?

>> No.1730188

marlin or duet > smoothie > klipperocto > marlinocto
dont have a pi/pc or 200$? go marlin

>> No.1730194
File: 30 KB, 931x154, Screenshot_1.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

How did I do?

>> No.1730196

I know Marlin has runaway thermal protection, does Duet?

>> No.1730199

Never heard of the brand, prepare to be chinked.

Obviously it does.

>> No.1730203

Thanks. I'm totally new to this. Youtube is more or less confusing me more than helping me at this stage.

>> No.1730210

if it has a door great, a top lid isnt that hard to diy and IDC about control boards since its so easy to swap to a 32 bit board with trinamic on the x and y. I dont like the single z motor tho.

yes, it has customizable runaway, voltage drop emergency saving, under temp pausing
it has all the safety features and more, as expected at the price; but again the price, the duet is made so people can create SCARA, high speed corexy, and tool (not only filament) changing additive/subtractive devices. the new ones have CAN bus on them, I dont know a single person who needs an entire network worth of toolheads, even the Maestro clones are 80$.
marlin having a heating fault will protect you from a fire, but if the mosfet goes haywire or the device is not fused you might get a pop or two and a small fire if you're not at home.
the premium markup on the duet is not reprap firmware or just hype, its just a whole bunch of features that you might not need, even if it has the best fire protection in town.
my duet wifi runs like a champ and only dropped 20$ in value after 2 years, but if smoothie and marlin had competent 32bit builds at that time, I would have gone with them.

>> No.1730217

Someone else with a Duet or two here:
>the premium markup on the duet is not reprap firmware or just hype, its just a whole bunch of features that the average user will never, ever need
FTFY. A Duet is overkill for most purposes, and even that CoreXYUVAB monstrosity didn't use it all. The advantage of one is that it's completely adaptable to just about every 3D-printer out there, and it can even be used to rig up a hobbyist tier CNC mill. Is it worth it for everyone? Probably not. But to some people, there ain't no such thing as overkill.
Also of note, they use excellent stepper drivers that will handle a lot of abuse. Pretty damn silent, too, a proper setup with print speeds below 60mm/s will usually have the PSU be louder than the motors.

>> No.1730219

Dude calibrate your esteps and flow rate, and do some retraction tests, you can see blobs on the smaller parts such as the hand. Go look at some youtube vids from channels that print minis and use their profiles

>> No.1730221

you could print at 80 and it'll still be silent with plastic bushings, its keeping the current low and steps high. I bet with carbon rails you could print at 100 silent. but yeh there where threads of effort and updates for that e3d project and Deckingman's corewaytoomany printer

>> No.1730224
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>> No.1730352

Are there any Chinese printers with dual extrusion or can mount a chimera out of box? And can be enclosed

>> No.1730356

I'm not saying you should change the name of 3dpg, but you should definitely make the name 3dpd (3d printer discussion)

>> No.1730359

3d printing disgusting?

>> No.1730446

How long does it take for the fucking nozzle to get to heat? First time using one and all it's doing is climbing to 170 and fallin back to 155 for ten minutes now.

>> No.1730449

I think he's referring to "3D pig disgusting", which is an /a/ term for real women, as compared to anime waifus.

>> No.1730485

Why would that even be a remote consideration? Generals have been around for years at this point and there's not a reason to change the name to a "discussion"

>> No.1730509

Alright, on my A8 Clone, I keep seeing "Extruder 0 Off" and zero temp reading on the extruder.

Is it a bad temp sensor in the exruder?

>> No.1730517

See >>1730449

>> No.1730522

Check and re-plug all your connections and make sure nothing's frayed. If the problem persists, see if your slicer is maybe trying to heat the bed before the extruder. You might have a bad board or wires somewhere.

>> No.1730534

i was thinking the same the same thing, i call it 3dpd internally every time i look for this thread. 3d printer discussion , that is.

>> No.1730549

Is the extruder actually not heating up? Which is to say is the temperature reading actually incorrect, or is the wiring to the heater cartridge bad? Double check your connections to the board in either case.

>> No.1730888
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>> No.1730903

Just need two tubes with opposite hand threads, spin those tubes and feed filament through

>> No.1730925

>more complex
I didn't listen to the audio yet, but I'm not impressed. Nothing immediately pops out as being "high performance" there.

>> No.1730938

looks heavy
ultra light piezo extruders when?

>> No.1730944

My A8 clone journey/nightmare
>Assembly: nbd
>Ah,someone swapped the hotend with their broken one and returned it, nbd
>Couple of days for a new hotend to arrive
>Put it in
>Why is this thing not getting to temp?
>Turns out temp sensor had disconnected from hotend
>No runaway thermal protection
>whole hotend is glowing red
>Oh shit, I'm an idiot
>Put in new hotend
>working this time
>Go to print test piece
>End carves into the tape bed but starts printing
>cooling fan does job too well
>printer drops to 160 C
>printer jams
>cancel print
And this is where I'm at

>> No.1730955

I agree, I dont know why you need to screw it in from a planetary set.
>cant print flexables due to twist
>no steps
>pushing filament down with those bearings
Imagine printing wood fill or an abs clog. filament like that breaks in clogs, all that crap goes into gumming up the gearset

>> No.1730959

oh what I ment with no steps is not that its not encoded, its how the filament goes in.
the hotend/coldend/motor part of the extruder is all rigid with a compressed spring of filament, thats where all the ooze prevention and lin advance settings go, trying to compensate the ooze from the spring when you want to print outside of vase mode.
IDK how a quadcopter motor that cant keep its position would work in that system, but considering the demos are in vase mode, none of the slicer ooze settings help.

>> No.1730989


>> No.1731010

the motor has an encoder and therefore it can keep it position

>> No.1731017

I hope you got a V6 or clone and not the garbage stock hot end. As someone who has done basically everything to their A8 (Now AM8 with duet board, BMG in direct drive and a V6 hot end)

If you're looking for less tinkering and see yourself actually wanting to print reliably I would just throw cash at an Ender 3/5. If I could go back I would have cut my losses before the AM8 frame and gotten an Ender 3 for 1/3 the cost I have in my A8 now. Hindsight 20/20 though and I learned a lot by fucking up frequently.

>> No.1731037

I got it for free so I can't complain too much. Mostly plan on using it to make custom cutting/marking jigs for an unusually shaped thing I make and sell. Cleaning and retaping the bed as I write this and going to try again with a benchy.

>> No.1731044

so I'm a person that has always looked at 3d printing from the outside but never really had the courage to jump in. How has the technology developed? Has it improved much in the last 5 years? How have prices in general moved? Is the equipment cheaper or more expensive. Starting to think I might want to try one but I really want to get the lay of the land first.

>> No.1731063

It's gotten a lot cheaper.Nowadays you can get an Ender 3, which is a pretty good starting point, for less than 150$. It's a printer that prints decently out of the box, 95% of the stuff I print a stock Ender 3 could handle perfectly well.

>> No.1731091

it cant, not like a stepper.
the fucking definition of a stepper is that it holds torque in a stepwise fashion. you can KNOW something's position(and know where it isn't, within reason) and not be there like an encoded BLDC servo, because its holding torque, even with an odrive, is shit. marco reps did a whole video explaining why he went with encoded steppers for his project.

>> No.1731099

So what if its holding torque is shit? it can still hold it's position if need be and for an extruder application it is perfectly viable

>> No.1731106
File: 22 KB, 974x187, 1561779374274.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I cast my doubts. I dont see the benefit of that big heavy extruder and both the high weight and low torque of the system can be good for print speeds. Encoding from the filament is an easy way to improve ooze and know the maximum volume of filament that can move through, but I see no stated benefit of their proprietary system other than it has more contact with the filament, therefore its faster and more industrially reliable than a bondtech.
I dont see how they can make that claim without evidence, especially with the weird extrusion system.

>> No.1731108
File: 2.23 MB, 2592x1944, DSC03283.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Nozzle: 200 C
Bed: 60 C
Print came off the bed. PLA.
Going to try 210 C and 70 C.

>> No.1731118

You do know what reduction gears do to torque?
Read up https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_train

>> No.1731119

Should have bought a Prusa.

>> No.1731123

buddy, the bondtech bmg uses a 3:1 gear ratio, and unlike a proprietary bldc system you can attach any nema 17 you want. weak torque.

>> No.1731134
File: 1.86 MB, 2592x1944, DSC03284.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I didn't buy anything, I'm a poorfag who was given the A8 Clone and I'm trying my best with what I have.

This print at 210/70 just peeled off and gummed up on the printer head. Should I go hotter? Colder? They're all peeling away.

>> No.1731146

Yeah and what the fuck do you think is the gear ratio of this worm gear + belt reduction setup? probably at least 30:1
Torque should be measured at the end of the gearbox, not the beginning.

>> No.1731147

Still, just get a prusa lol

>> No.1731152

I forgot to level the table when I swapped the broken hotbed for a working one. It seems to be printing fine now but the next time someone offers me a printer, I'll say no unless it's a prusa.

>> No.1731167

glad you understood

>> No.1731179
File: 83 KB, 600x338, 1557382962102.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

i cant find any data on what motor they're using and dont want to waste the calories finding the rpm and comparing that with a 1000kv motor but it'll have to compete with a tiny little high throughput Raise3D extruder in testing.

>> No.1731207
File: 1.25 MB, 1540x939, raep.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


Are you a bad enough dude to 3D print rape

>> No.1731213
File: 1.53 MB, 355x240, MST3K NO.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1731225

I'm using some old PLA and even at 245 C I'm running into spots that won't melt in the spool.

Does this shit go bad?

>> No.1731226

>Those holes in the mesh

>> No.1731228

It might not be PLA, depending on how old it is. I remember back in ~2012 when 3D printers were still the Next Big Thing that a lot of Chinese manufacturers would cut corners and mix in shit plastics to make it cheaper and faster to produce, you might have gotten one of those. Though, 245C sounds very high, even ABS should be melting at like 235.

>> No.1731234
File: 1.80 MB, 2592x1944, DSC03295.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

It says it's PLA and does occasionally brown at the obscenely high temp but it's the only temp it will flow at but suddenly hit spots where it won't flow at all. I pull it out, cut a few inches off and it flows again.

It did come with my clone A8, so I'm just assuming at this point it's garbage and am just going to get some better stuff..

>> No.1731253

I sell meme guns to hong kong protesters on etsy. I pruposely sell them unworking models because fuck globohomo, this is a One China policy household.

>> No.1731261
File: 201 KB, 1200x932, 1548570811665.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

what a shitty fucking model, even when repaired

>> No.1731264

looks like a straight mmd convert in blender. how well do those print without any work?

can someone print this one and show us

>> No.1731286

Anyone have anything CNC'd from china? Due to the lack of compact corexys that can be constrained into a small sealed box I want to design my own. I figure aluminum may be required since it'll be in a heated chamber

>> No.1731296

Too far off the bed, relevel and try again. If anything, PLA wants a lower bed temp.

>> No.1731297

Cut that temperature down you idiot, you're basically burning it in your hotend at this point. IF you can't melt it at normal temperatures, put it into a dehydrator to get the moisture out.

>> No.1731313

Removing moisture doesn't lower melting point.

>> No.1731314

No, but it does reduce inconsistent extrusion and the chance of clogging your hotend.

>> No.1731344
File: 604 KB, 1729x828, IMG_20191208_235733.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Just finished printing out a whole lot of moist boys on my Mars

>> No.1731345
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>> No.1731347
File: 506 KB, 1306x943, IMG_20191208_235635.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I'm constantly amazed at the detail resin printers can do for 28mm scale miniatures, even at just .05mm layer heights!

>> No.1731354

heights must be 0.04 multiplers, like 0.04, 0.08, 0.12, etc.
print them with the front part heading to the top

>> No.1731387
File: 38 KB, 800x800, shirt-1555444466-41d25e38e018ca43df02f295d1053816.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


It looks really cool, but... what is the big benefit exactly?

>> No.1731411

Built my Ender 5 on the weekend, had a little play.
Making some of the support arms and such.
Totally new to this and I am sorry if this has been asked before.

I got mine from here https://www.tomtop.com/p-os2405eu.html?utm_source=tradetracker&utm_campaign=nl
I assume there's a high chance it's a clone? the packaging, instructions etc. all seemed very high quality. Build quality was perfect for what I expected it to be. Any definitive way to tell?
Don't want to exasperate any risk of burning my house down.

I've been recommended getting the upgraded 1.1.5 silent main board.
It's as cheap to get this from the official Creality site as the cost of third party clone boards on Amazon so that should hopefully cover any risk of currently running a potentially risky chink clone, right?
Thanks in advance.

>> No.1731413

The ender 5 is chinkshit to begin with so you should be worried about burning down your house regardless. Get a fire extinguisher

>> No.1731429
File: 629 KB, 1920x1080, ripples.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Anyone know what might be going wrong here?
This should be a solid rectangle 2 layers high (not counting the raft) with concentric fill. (There's more to the part than that but I stopped it after 2 layers because it was such a mess.) The surface is supposed to be smooth, but instead it's got this weird ripple pattern all over it, which is so bad in some places near the edges that the plastic is up a good 0.5mm in the air above the place where it's supposed to be.

>Printer make & model
Alunar M608
>Filament type/brand
Natural PLA, from MatterHackers
>Bed & extruder temperature
Bed: not heated
Extruder: 200C
>Print speed
40 mm/s

Layer height is 0.08mm, but I've seen the same problem from this printer at other heights too.
Non-concentric fill patterns show the same kind of ripples but don't lift up off the raft.

>> No.1731431

how the fuck can I get a defcad account?

>> No.1731432
File: 137 KB, 328x340, threadless ballscrew.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

If I understand it correctly its basicly this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:310263 but instead of the smooth rod there is the filament and the rolers are toothed along their circunference.
I wonder how well it works on less round filaments.

>> No.1731443

Looks like underextrusion. Make sure your width is set atleast as wide as your nozzle.

>> No.1731446

This. Or maybe it's not leveled right, but underextrusion is more likely. The extruded plastic should basically swell slightly underneath the nozzle so it gets spread by the nozzle.

>> No.1731451

>what is the big benefit exactly?
Considerably more positive feed force on the filament. There were high-speed experiments in FDM printing where the filament was required to have a thread profile on it in order to be fed faster enough for the head travel rate.

This allows you to potentially achieve similarly high extrusions rates and extrusion loading but with standard round filaments. Since it provides similar drive loading on the filament over a wider surface area.
That would be similar to running filament through a long shallow taper die set. But you don't want the die to actually cut threads into the filament, you just want to use the pitch engagement to convert rotation into linear drive. Unless the goal is really high print speeds this still seems like a solution in search of a problem. And as noted in the video it isn't a drive style that is compatible with flexible filaments.

Positive loading of filament could more easily be achieved with pellet extruders, or multiple hobbed gears anyway.

>> No.1731457

Nozzle and line width are both 0.4mm. I'll try bumping up the extrusion multiplier and see if it helps.

>> No.1731461


>> No.1731465

>printing sculptures with a filament printer

>> No.1731507

anyone who says that so blatantly has an a8 or has never used hatchbox pro pla

>> No.1731509

Since when did 3dhub start charging a machine surcharge? It doubles the cost of their services

>> No.1731516

I'd imagine the knurling on the rollers kind of squishes the filament passing through it, making it a bit more consistent.

>> No.1731519
File: 253 KB, 1090x676, 1551782445615.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>nearly 100$
looking at the polyjet cost, they are lowing print cost by putting machine investment as a fee

>> No.1731523

Is hatchbox that good? The reviews arent great...

>> No.1731535

>repair stl

what. I've been straight converting objs/fbx/mmd to stl without any cleanup

>> No.1731543

Wasn't 3dhub just a place where random people offered their services

>> No.1731547

yes and then it went to shit

>> No.1731559

It's complete crap now. As of 11 months ago you can't select reliable hubs that you've worked with before and would like to do repeat business with. Your files are instead dump through an API and randomly assigned to whatever goober has signed up to do that kind of printing.

>> No.1731580

I bought some of their black PLA on sale; worked fine, but I didn't really think it was any better than the $15 Inland I normally buy.

>> No.1731664

oh no their normal pla is normal
the performance has some other polymer that dosent make it string, I can get single bloop artifacts but the main benefit is its a polymer mix so you can sand down your models. its also matte so it matches painters tape.
the main thing is that when you can find the black and white ppla on sale you can sand down the less supported areas (>>17289950) and it'll take automotive primer without chipping off for models

when the nanachi print is done, the comparison will be interesting to see

>> No.1731667

fuck I added a 0 to that >>1728995

>> No.1731682

Is enabling retraction a likely suspect in why my printer stops feeding the filament?

>> No.1731684

No. Retraction is when the printer pulls back the filament a little before moving, to prevent it from oozing out of the nozzle and forming a string between parts of your print. Unless you've set it absurdly high (it should be below 2mm for a direct drive and below 5mm for a bowden) it should have nothing to do with jams.
What's your nozzle size, what's your temperature, and what filament are you using?

>> No.1731690

Oh yeah. the weird mesh pieces are where the ripped clothes are suppose to be.

>> No.1731697

0.4 mm nozzle, never clogged. 220 C, PLA.
The end looks like it was properly seated in the nozzle every time I pull it out.but just won't flow even at proper hotend temps.

I never get more than 4% of a build done before this happens. Stepper motor issue, perhaps? It feels like it keeps moving. Shitty no-name PLA with lots of contaminates?

>> No.1731698
File: 2.06 MB, 2592x1944, DSC03302.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Weird, it didn't upload the pic.

>> No.1731707

or just a clogged/damaged nozzle

>> No.1731708

That little string at the end was in the nozzle.

>> No.1731710

>after no nut november

>> No.1731711

...so it's like a .0001mm nozzle?

>> No.1731738

that looks like a cold pull from a 0.4mm nozzle

is there any material coming out the other side?

>> No.1731741

by "any material" is it still extruding, even intermittently after 4%?

>> No.1731747

Normally no, the flow just stops and the filament is solid when I pull it out seconds after I cut the power.

>> No.1731758

can you monitor heater temps? it might be that if its solid and cold on failure
my duet didnt have a fault script when it recovered prints so if there was a draft in winter when the power goes out it would try to print with the extruder off, causing fails like that. marlin might not stop printing if there is a heater fault and just turn off power to the extruder.
also check your slicer because you might have first layer temps high and later layers cold. (gcode check the initial m109 temp, there should only be one per heater typically, and m104 for anything below printing temp.)

it could be a combination of this and the stepper too, where its too cold and the extruder gear grinds or slips to the pressure. check if there is a draft or if the fan is too high starting out, causing a fault or too cool of a nozzle for extrusion.

>> No.1731768

Thanks, I'll check all of this. I'm also noticing stripping/filament grinding but I don't know if' it's a cause or a symptom. My readouts display that the hotend is at 220 (or whatever I set it at).

>> No.1731770

How to unclog a ender 3 hot end? PLA stuck in the tube between the brass piece and the cooler.

>> No.1731779

cold pull for nozzle/all metal, warm pull for teflon tubez

if its too bad (e3d bowden clones) you might have to disassemble and get out the flame thrower

>> No.1731786

thin your paints

>> No.1731787

yeh, reprinting with better stringing settings, I am repainting after finals week.

>> No.1731788

I can buy a used ender 3 or a used solidoodle 4 for the same price, which should I get? I know the ender is good but I havent heard much about the solidoodle.

>> No.1731805

Put in oven, then pushed it out the clog. Maybe should have tired just pushing before heating.

>> No.1731836


>> No.1731841
File: 27 KB, 375x500, 0284593B-0A99-4C61-B427-DFDB0347D917.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

If you are building your own printer (prusa clone) then how do you set-up the software?

>> No.1731843

Configure Marlin, then compile and upload it to the firmware. Typically this can be done in the arduino IDE. After that just make sure that your printer's specs are set up in your slicer and you should be good.

>> No.1731845
File: 23 KB, 537x392, 9A104F38-CB6A-44D4-9B00-C13C6D78DC56.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Is it worth the effort of handing off tasks to a Raspberry pi to speed it up?

>> No.1731846

No idea. For a printer Arduinos have just werked for me. You might be able to use your slicer and pronterface on the raspberry pi though.

>> No.1731848


>> No.1731868

>reviews aren't great
I still have no idea where people are finding these reviews. Every Hatchbox filament I see on the first page or two of Amazon has at least 4 star reviews, and I've had zero problems over the past 5 years with them.

>> No.1731887

reminder: decent 20$ 32bit boards exist (and are far better than kipper setups)

>> No.1731890

SKR clones?

>> No.1731952

The only issue I've ever had was certain colors getting backordered for months.

>> No.1731984

They look great, I'm considering getting a mars. Anything you wish you knew before you got it?

>> No.1732034

oh my god how hard it for them hatchbox and esun always run out of the color you want and the color you already have is on sale the next time you wanna stock up on filament. This is why half my filament is blue. also they dropped the best glow colors and I want them back.

yeh the mks genL drop in replacements, I think SKR is a clone of the sgenL but if it has removable driver support and marlin2.0 or smoothie it should be able to go 70mm/s without that salmon skin and can drive tmc easialy. (also look into adjusting your slicer for a higher slicing resolution, the increased command resolution will help with curves and tolerances, at the cost of storage space ~20% for cura's maximum resolution setting)

>> No.1732068

Just found I'm getting a Raspberry Pi for Christmas, but I have no idea what to do with it. How much would it cost to make my own printer for it to run?

>> No.1732070

Couple hundred bucks or so to DIY one. Just buy an Ender 3 kit.

>> No.1732096

It can be suprisingly hard to tune exposure and print support/orientation settings at first. All my first prints came out looking melted and I thought my printer was broken. Also make sure to get all your extra consumables first, you go through a lot using a resin printer. I use: nitrile gloves, 99% alcohol, 2 plastic pickle wash jars, a 3m mask with organic solvent filters, automotive oil filters, replacement FEP, a 40w uv cure light, plastic bucket to cure in, and a large metal scraper since it only comes with a plastic one that wont remove prints. I really love this printer.

>> No.1732098

I was thinking about an Ender 3, but I want more print capacity.

>> No.1732109

CR-10 then.

>> No.1732115

Lmao did that printed keyboard actually work?

>> No.1732117

Has anyone tried inserting screws to strengthen 3d prints? Need a way to strengthen parts for a 3d printer printed by a different printer. And how come europoors get better filaments than the US?

>> No.1732129

...at which price point, DIY becomes questionable; hence why I asked.

>> No.1732130

Unless you have a specific need diy/maker designs arent worth it. You'll end up spending close to $600-800 after shipping, tools, and minor hardware (nuts and screws) after you're done, compared to a chinese kit which has everything in 400-500, maybe with free shipping

>> No.1732133

Cool cool, I appreciate the ballpark figures.

>> No.1732136

that said, a big problem with the chinese kits is you never know *exactly* what they'll send. Order two kits same day and you're likely to end up with different parts. It's fucking maddening.

>> No.1732144

Honestly, the only thing I wasn't entirely prepared for was the amount of learning and practice needed for support placement in Chitubox; for minis I'd highly recommend "3DPrintingPro"'s Chitubox 5 or 6 part video series on support placement and model orientation.

Other than that you definitely need a place to print that you don't mind getting quite fume-filled, because the resin can smell like death at times. I print in a garage with decent airflow and a box fan, but would absolutely never use it indoors without a ducted exhaust fan setup shooting outside.
And like the other guy here said you'll need some accessories; Dollar Tree metal cookie spatula is a godsend for popping models from the build plate, and I also got a soft rubber baking spatula for using on the FEP. Rolls of paper towels, box of nitrile gloves, a UV curing station, sealed and latched Tupperware containers for holding Isopropyl alcohol and water (I do two iso baths and one water), safety glasses, mask or respirator, paper filter funnels for straining resin and iso, and a good hobby knife.

>> No.1732146

True. Even nuts can end up being garbage. That said I've had bad batches of nuts for diy as well. I bought hammer nuts or whatever for extrusions from aliexpress to keep prices down and maybe a quarter were usable. Still cheaper than buying good ones from an american source though lol

>> No.1732156

is there a way to have a big vat that melts plastic junk down then have it feed into the printer? I don't like the idea of having to buy spools of that wire

>> No.1732182

You can print a Reprap pellet extruder, but they have some severe downsides and cost as much as a cheap printer.
You can buy an expensive pellet extruder, but they cost as much as a car.
You could buy a filament extrusion machine, throw your pellets in there, and make your own filament. Probably your best bet.

>> No.1732220
File: 110 KB, 765x627, Bob.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

There were no bad reviews, I just wanted more (you)s and see if other anons agreed with you

>> No.1732224

>Probably your best bet.
And again, will you cost as much as a cheap printer.

>> No.1732277

those things are getting cheap these days
build your own, reprap designed these machines to be 100$ and made in a weekend (the 3devo shredder looks cool tho)
filafab sells extruder parts if you need better tolerances.

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