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/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself

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1722570 No.1722570 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Tiny Muffled Screams Edition

Old Thread >>1715855

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy

>Need help with prints? Go to:

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 7-9-2019]
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free:

>> No.1722574
File: 390 KB, 2048x1151, u.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>That is pretty impressive and cool. What parts do you make?

>> No.1722576

Hell yeah, that’s cool, do they come premade or do you sell them as kits? How’d that even come about?

>> No.1722617

Cool, have you considered getting into BB guns?

>> No.1722658
File: 611 KB, 1500x1924, ak47-grip.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Oy you cunts,
I'm back, and still looking for a dildo to splice.
I've already CAD-ed up the AR pistol grip, but I still am on the hunt for a penis/dildo to slap on the bottom of it.

C'mon out you degenerate 3D printing dildo anons, I know one of you has a saucy dong to share.

I promise to credit the first production to you.
And no, I did not make this sort of item for an AR15, I usually design furniture for firearms, complete frames and other nonsense, but I cant seem to draw a dick to save my life in CAD.

This is the grip, but it should be a penis.
Because somewhere, someone, will want this. At least one person has asked me to make this.
If the boog happens, I want someone to get slotted with the dick-gripped AK

>> No.1722659

fuck I meant I CAD'd the AK pistol grip.
see pic

>> No.1722664

Scratchbuilt. I sell the hardware sets, blaster kits, or assembled blasters.
>BB guns

>> No.1722695

Doesn't Autodesk make some thing where you take a bunch of pictures of an object with your phone and it stitches together a semi-accurate 3d model of it?
Just scan your own dick.

>> No.1722727

>Just scan your own dick.
but then he'd need some crazy two photon polymerization alien technology printer

>> No.1722823

Can you attach your phone to a microscope nowadays?

>> No.1722831

I use mine for colonoscopies

>> No.1722860

>pellet printers
tell me about pellet extruders
cheaper than filament in the long run?
higher print speeds with powerful hot and high preassure extruders?

>> No.1722875

Did all the initial issues with the Anycubic Chiron get ironed out? I remember there was a kerfuful about that where they had to pull listings, and now it looks like they're back. I'm looking for a decent 300*300 plus printer under a grand and it seems pretty reasonably priced for such a big size, and it works with ABS so that's a plus.

Is it worth it, or is there something better out there?

>> No.1722879

>cheaper than filament in the long run?
>higher print speeds with powerful hot and high preassure extruders?
No. Moving all that mass around slows the printer down considerably unless you've got hefty as fuck motors and a very heavy, rigid frame.

>> No.1722880


>> No.1722915

From the previous thread:
>cheaper than filament in the long run?
Yes, especially if you've got massive prints.
>higher print speeds with powerful hot and high preassure extruders?
Not higher print head speeds (those sometimes have to be toned down) but massive nozzle sizes and layer heights are what give you that huge volume flow. 15mm nozzles aren't unheard of.

>> No.1722917

>mount bltouch inside the metal cage on the ender 3 hotend because it looks way better
>measure with an IR thermometer
>120 degrees

>> No.1722918

You should upgrade your hotend cooling anyway.

>> No.1722928
File: 141 KB, 879x783, 1574624115630.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Two years of dicking around, finally got around to stuffing them into brass today. Range trip in two weeks, will post results.

>> No.1722988

What are thooooose

>> No.1722991

3D-printed bullets for a special type of 12 gauge slug gun.

>> No.1722993

So I finally got my skr mini e3 1.2 firmware compiled and it’s working.

However I have disconnected and disabled the bltouch because it was crashing the hot end into the brand new (actually flat) bed

I don’t think it’s defective because it works and actuates. But I’m not sure if I wired it right (some diagrams say you should use jumpers as well as the bltouch connectors but I think it’s for sensorless homing and I’m not sure how that works or the benefit it gives.

How much of a pain in the ass is setting this thing up going to be?

Especially if I have a hero me fan setup on my ender 3 now?

>> No.1722994

What’s the deal with 12 gauge brass? Is it better/worse?

>> No.1722995
File: 569 KB, 1280x853, buks 1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

You try finding reloadable 32mm long shells for a 12 gauge, practically impossible that is.

>> No.1722997

What is thhhhaaaaattt

>> No.1723001

In laser/display type resin 3d printer, should the platform be homed down to 0um?I mean no gap between platform and FEP?

>> No.1723022

Not that I have one, but I've seen the homing procedure on a few; they all involved removing the tank first and gapping to the thickness of a sheet of paper (presumably to simulate the film). So maybe? How thick is FEP sheet?

>> No.1723026

Swap the switch wires around (grey and white on mine, it's the one that's paired), they're direction-sensitive. I also had a hard time figuring out what was wrong with mine at first.

>> No.1723027

A buks - a 12 gauge rifled slugthrower for a specific kind of match that's only shot in Limburg, a very narrow area in the Netherlands and Belgium. Uses diopter and globe sights like an Olympic target gun, and can achieve 0.3-0.4MOA accuracy from a vise. They're 1,80m (almost 6 foot) long, weighing about 17-18kg depending on the model.

>> No.1723039

I measured its 0,13mm. I have made laser one and layers doesnt stick to platform no mather what platform is made of...thx anyway mate.

>> No.1723134

Why don't we do metal 3d printing by replacing the hotend of an ordinary FDM machine with a MIG torch?
All these metal 3d printing methods seem extremely expensive and complicated when you can get a MIG welder for a couple hundred dollars, rig that up to a 3d printing frame and the price ought to be under $2000

>> No.1723149

has been done. Big suprise, its shit.

>> No.1723151

a mig weld bead is at least 5mm wide so that limits your detail resolution
controlling that welder isn't super simple, robotic welders are expensive for a reason
and finally you will go through a shit ton of gas building up even small objects

it pretty much boils down to this >>1723149

>> No.1723155

>controlling that welder isn't super simple
what do you mean dude? what's stopping me from throwing that shit on a 3d printer?
oh ok

>> No.1723156

Pic related, partially, as well as what the anons above said

>> No.1723163

seems like it could be made to work if some work was put into it

>> No.1723167

oh someone has actually done it for real
seems pretty functional to me
idk why nobody is making $1000 metal 3d printers with this idea

>> No.1723172

>what do you mean dude?
look at those >>1723163 >>1723167
it's good enough for welding a continuous line as long as nothing changes
but as soon as you reach the endpoint (tu delft) or have too much heat in it (tony building up high)
the quality goes to shit you would have to constantly adjust your welding parameters
there are two ways to do that both need a lot of R&D
either your slicer can precisely calculate what parameter is best for which part of your print beforehand
or you have some kind of feedback loop adjusting amperage and feedrate continuously based on some sensor

either way is much more work than just slapping a welder on a printer setting it to x Amps and y feedrate and just going for it

>> No.1723176

Overheating atleast is manageable simply by adding a cooling system and adding breaks to the code

>> No.1723179

>simply by adding a cooling system
how? fans will blow away your shielding gas
>and adding breaks to the code
you will need some algorithm to decide when a break is necessary also every stop and restart will be clearly visible (look at the beginning and end of tony's straight lines)

I'm not saying it's impossible just that it will take a lot of engineering hours to develop the control mechanism which makes it expensive

>> No.1723191

>how? fans will blow away your shielding gas
a simple enclosure filled with shielding gas
>you will need some algorithm to decide when a break is necessary also every stop and restart will be clearly visible (look at the beginning and end of tony's straight lines)
break after every single layer

>> No.1723197

I'm looking to reduce the sound from my Ender 3 as much as possible, I was thinking about building an enclosure but I mostly build in PLA. Would I be good with taking the Ikea Lack design and just using half inch wood and then dense foam on the outside, then drilling vent holes on the top/bottom?

>> No.1723199

give it a try then if it's so easy
I'd be really surprised if you could achieve anything better than the two videos
without investing serious time and money

>> No.1723202

Nah i'm way too lazy, don't have the time, and am not all that interested in metal 3d printing.

>> No.1723203

you don't need "vent holes"

>> No.1723204

>Why don't we do metal 3d printing by replacing the hotend of an ordinary FDM machine with a MIG torch?
It already exists. There are several brands. Some use wire-feed with a laser as the heat source for the melt pool, some or just basic wire-feed MIG
, and some are fancy-ass powder spray with a path for a laser or electron beam, through the middle of the nozzle as it sprays powder.
And a marginal few more use extremely high velocity powder spray (sometimes heated) to just deposit the material. Those are called cold spray or plasma spray guns.

The wire-feed machines have the worst resolution of the bunch, so they're mostly just used to make a near-net-shape billet in alloys that would would have cost more in tooling to produce using only machining.

>> No.1723216
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will I gain anything if I switch my MKS gen L for a SKR V1.3?

>> No.1723235

I'm at work so I cant look for it, but one of the designers/artists at bad-dragon leaked a bunch of the 3D models for their most popular characters on reddit like 2 years ago

>> No.1723245

SKR mini E3, silent 40mm fan (not noctua, Google ender 3 24v fan there are a few)

This is objectively better than an enclosure and will likely cost less.

>> No.1723262

So obscure I can’t seem to find any details online in English. Nice.

>> No.1723300


>> No.1723315

>Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.
>Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

This makes zero sense. If you build your own you still have to get Chinese parts!

>> No.1723316

Yea but the parts are usually kinda decentish, especially if you get the vital parts, like the hotend, from a reputable manufacturer you ought to not really have too many issues.
What's wrong with some chink kits is that they're just plain shit through and through

>> No.1723335


I built mine with (for the most part) non-chinese parts. German extrusions (Item) and linear rods (Igus), british (E3D) hotend/extruder, taiwanese (Meanwell) power supply, EU printed parts etc. The most inevitable chinese components are always the motors and control board.

>> No.1723442

>Tiny Muffled Screams
Pretty much how I feel when I saw the prussia's build volume.

Why's it gotta be so tiny for so much quality friends, why?

>> No.1723522


>> No.1723528

>If you build your own you still have to get Chinese parts!
No you don't, you can buy more expensive components from reputable sources outside of China. Most of the bad reputation of Chinese clones is from cheaping out on parts, bad design, bad assembly or bad firmware (thermal runaway). You can avoid all of these by buying the proper parts, with a good design for your printer, assembling it carefully and putting a stable firmware on there. If you do this with chinkshit parts, just accept that some will be duds and buy replacements - cheaper than buying Euro or US stuff anyways.

t. OP of the copypasta

Daily reminder than Bosch >>> ITEM.
Control board can be Duet (British) , stepper motors can be Sanyo Denki (Jap), but nobody cares about those and you're better off with Chinese motors and expensive drivers from Trinamic (Germany).

>Why's it gotta be so tiny for so much quality friends, why?
Because 3D-printing problems increase not in an exponential fashion. Smaller is (relatively) easier to make more accurate.
>So much quality
In terms of print quality it's on par with a well-tuned Ender 3, stop soiing out over Prusa's brand name.

>> No.1723531

>Daily reminder than Bosch >>> ITEM.

If Bosch are better, how come they don't offer black anodized versions? Item also now has both 5mm and 6mm channel widths for their 20x20 extrusions so you can use any type of T-nuts you want.

At the time i was looking at steppers from Lam Technologies (Italy), and while they offer a tiny bit more torque on their NEMA17 models, a single motor costs about as much as 5 chinese Wantai or Motech ones so i passed.

>> No.1723538

Thanks for the link but it still looks like I need to learn ooglesprechen or similar. I did instantly fall in love with the idea and the look of the bucks though. I’m a fan of big bore, long range shooting. This style is probably overdue to go global.

>> No.1723539
File: 44 KB, 629x400, 7fcf35d9-9a0b-4f09-bb8a-2726c35f7760_schietbomen.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Well this is big bore (12 gauge), low speed, short range shooting. We're aiming at 15x15x15 (let's call ém half inch cubed) wooden blocks sitting on a rake on top of a pole, distance to target is 15-16 meters. For irons, that's a challenge.

>> No.1723541
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>> No.1723554

Hell, you can get quality parts from China too, you just have to be careful about who you buy it from.

>> No.1723560

yep and more importantly what you are paying for it
chinks will say yes and thank you to any price you offer them and then adjust the quality accordingly

>> No.1723565

Yeah, I've noticed that too. If I buy something from a German, he sets the price after the quality. If I say "I can pay you 10% less", he says no deal. With the Chinese, chances are they say okay and then sell me a 10% worse product instead. As long as you find a decent seller and don't buy the absolutely cheapest version they offer I haven't had any quality issues. It's when you go on ebay and sort by cheapest+shipping that the problems start.

Case in point, my buildtak ripoffs aren't the cheapest I could get, but they work just as good as the real deal. When I went to the local makerstore and bought their buildtak it was pure shit, probably because what they'd done is just buy 200 of the cheapest thing aliexpress had listed.

>> No.1723574
File: 235 KB, 1912x926, Knipsel.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Gentlemen, we have achieved peak comfy.

>> No.1723576

loaded picture with intention to snark. can't argue.

>> No.1723636

Time for a fun story:
>Company orders some parts on a short notice from a chinese company we have been doing good business with for some year
>package arrives, literally filled with bricks and a stacks of old chinese newspaper
>my company immediately contacts the chinese company to explain this bullshit
>they seem suprised and ask for pictures, tracking number, etc and we send them that
>later we get a call with a guy apologizing and telling us that the packages had been mixed up and with another customer, a new package already had been send out with express delivery free of charge
>wait, what? you are sending out boxes with bricks and old chinese newspapers to other customers?
>guy on the phone tells in the most cold blood voice that some customers do not deserve better and reasures us that we are not that kind of customer

>> No.1723638

I wish my company would let me mail bricks to customers I don't like.
Or even better, glitter. Imagine a fridge box on a pallet, only when you open it instead of a fridge it contains glitter.

>> No.1723645

>In terms of print quality it's on par with a well-tuned Ender 3, stop soiing out over Prusa's brand name.
the level of delusion enderfags have is incredible

>> No.1723646

>some customers do not deserve better

>> No.1723657

Combine it with rats, they will still find hidden areas in the building covered in glitter years after it happened.

>> No.1723670

Yes, the more money I hand over to the vendor means the printer becomes higher quality. It's the magic of capitalism. For example I can buy a big mac here in Germany for ten euros, and that's a way better burger than if I buy a big mac in Poland for five euros, because I paid more for it.

>> No.1723679

Finally figured out what was causing the awful surface quality on my prints.
The fan shroud.
For some reason the stock Ender 3 fan shroud is amazing for surface quality. The upgrade apparently blows the air too concentrated or something and makes everything look like shit.

>> No.1723681
File: 103 KB, 860x747, image-1225820-860_galleryfree-pqgs-1225820.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>For example I can buy a big mac here in Germany for ten euros, and that's a way better burger than if I buy a big mac in Poland for five euros, because I paid more for it.
no to ruin your analogy but there's a long and well reported history of big brands lowering their standards and using less expensive ingredients in eastern european countries

>> No.1723713

>Yes, the more money I hand over to the vendor means the printer becomes higher quality.
That's not magic, that's just based logic.

>> No.1723715

Questions about resin printers : Can one use kerosene instead of IPA for the cleanup? Everyone talks about the smell. Is this an epoxy-style resin smell? How rigid is the final product, could one make project cases ?

>> No.1723718

There will always be the anons willing to pay for an item made from quality parts and tested by competent labor.
Then there's the anons that think you can save money by only testing the broken ones. After all, testing stuff that works is just a waste!
And, bless your little hearts, we have the anons who save money by making sure everything is broken. That's galaxy-brain innovation.

>> No.1723719

>Questions about resin printers : Can one use kerosene instead of IPA for the cleanup?
Um. No. They're not even close to the same thing, even if both come in cans.

>> No.1723720

Both work as solvents, hence my question.

>> No.1723721

so does water. so does chloroform. so does hydrochloric acid.

They're not remotely the same. No.

>> No.1723730

You might technically be able to, but you really shouldn't. All kinds of weird stuff works to clean resin, some peoole swear by mean green and other detergents, but it becomes toxic and hard to dispose of after.

>> No.1723746
File: 509 KB, 1022x766, printer.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

what are some good boards that can handle two extruders and two x-axes stepper motors at the same time?

>> No.1723750

Oh my god, Slovakia gets two less slices of pizza?

>> No.1723751

You do realise that pizzas having more slices doesn't mean they're actually bigger, right? 7/7=5/5

>> No.1723754

it's not pizza slices you mong learn to read
there are fewer slices of mozzarella on the pizza
and they also use lower quality tomatoes

>> No.1723767 [DELETED] 

Well, slavs are basically white niggers, what's the problem? They don't notice the difference anyway.

>> No.1723769

Probaly a Duet 2 + Duex 2 or 5. Maybe a Duet Maestro with two additional stepper drivers, dunno if they are official versions but you can find em on aliexpress for the Maestro. Clones of all from before as well.

>> No.1723776

kek, imagine the boardroom meeting of some german food company
all those serious businessmen in their Hugo Boss suits wondering how they can cut their costs and improve margins
suddenly one stands up "I know what to do, let's just feed Dreck to ze Untermenschen"
applause breaks out "Sehr gut Hans, sehr gut" beers are being opened and a Blaskapelle appears out of nowhere

>> No.1723781


You can skip the Duex2 for IDEX setups. Those boards are for when you need to add servos, more fans, additional heater outputs etc.

There's a guide on the Duet wiki that explains how to hook up a 6th motor using a cheap RAMPS pcb or simple pololu breakout board:


>> No.1723784

Am slav doing business with Germans, can confirm that's what they're like.

>> No.1723791

What can anyone tell me about the Alunar M505 printer? I know it's an 8 x 8 x 8 surface which is nice, but I know little more than that and one has fallen into my lap.

>> No.1723798

Any way to add more stepper drivers to a board I already have?

>> No.1723812

from what i have read there is not a huge difference performance wise, but the SKR does seem more stable temperature wise as well as having a 32 bit processor

>> No.1723813

fuck off to /pol/

>> No.1723818

If my print is slanting to the right on the upper third of a relatively tall model, especially at two particular layers, is it likely my x-axis belt is too loose or is my extruder assembly/wires bumping into something? I'm on an Ender 3.

>> No.1723821

Reddit is that-a-way, pal.

>> No.1723827


That depends greatly on what board you already have. The easiest method i can think of for a cheap 8bit Atmega type board would be to buy another one and a raspberry pi, then use the Klipper firmware. The Pi controls both microcontrollers giving you in total more stepper drivers and extruder heaters than you need.

>> No.1723828

Sounds more like lost steps, so motor current can be too low, but it also can be caused through a bed that is wobbling too much during its movement. Hard to tell without additional information. How tall was the print? How much space did it take on the build plate?

>> No.1723829

does your controller have unused pins available?

>> No.1723833
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>> No.1723837

Going to buy a printer, and I've looked at the Ender 3. Is the Ender 5 worth the extra 150 bucks or is it just that it's got 50mm taller height?

>> No.1723873

Did you turn a wood CNC into a printer? Lmao that's dope, my old work had one that had been sitting for years that I contemplated stealing but I was also in charge of inventory so I didn't wanna screw myself over for not very much value.

>> No.1723985

It's not actually another 150, I picked up my ender 5 for $250 on 11.11, will probably be the same on Black Friday.

And IMO yes, unless you are on a hard budget I don't think the Ender 3 is worth getting anymore now that the Ender 5 exists, it's a printer you can eventually print any material with including PC, ABS, and Nylon. The kinematic system is way better than the i3 style.

>> No.1724013

>better than the i3 style
you mean better than the Mendel style.

>> No.1724021
File: 408 KB, 1500x1500, 81-OLRzpu4L._SL1500_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Sadly no.
I think I'll be going for the duet board with a stepper expansion

>> No.1724026

Hows your business doing? Haven't come here for almost a year now but even back then I liked to follow your progress.

>> No.1724029

is there a big step in quality from the CR10 and Prusa i3? Work didn't want to buy me a form 3 so I have to settle with one of these for another few months until I can show them the future.

>> No.1724031

Aren't you spending more than just buying the Prusa?

>> No.1724034

Sometimes people are creative and have their own ideas of the machine they want.

>> No.1724041

Cura 4.4 FUCKED all my miniature settings. I can't get a decent print anymore and any settings I import gives me an erorr. Anyone have 28mm print settings that function on 4.3-4.4?

>> No.1724046

Print head seems to hit the print at higher levels, check how sturdy everything is or try printing 25% slower. Do you use z-hop (while retraction)? Could be another reason for this to happen.

>> No.1724060

That's a great idea

>> No.1724119

I read somewhere (RepRap wiki under Anet A8?) than you can attach a breakout board for stepper drivers via the test pads around the processor. IDK if that actually gets you more than the board already uses though.

>> No.1724128
File: 3.95 MB, 4032x1842, 20191124_233546[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>Hows your business doing?
It's doing just fine. Due to the lower cost of 3d printers now the core sales of my business are now in hardware sets. So I haven't had to work myself to death as much in the printing, assembly, and packaging compared to this time last year. I also now have reliable wholesale suppliers for all of my materials.

>> No.1724135

What am Iooking at here?

>> No.1724146

It's a 3D printed airsoft gun.

>> No.1724177

I shoots half-length nerf darts

>> No.1724244

Does anyone have these STL's? I'd kill for them and I have a bottle of silicone thats just been sitting on my shelf for months now.

>> No.1724249
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Been having issues with this print. Third try. More pictures coming.

>Printer make & model Ender 3
>Filament type/brand Prusament PETG
>Bed & extruder temperature 85/240°

>> No.1724256
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>> No.1724258
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>> No.1724259
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>> No.1724266

Are you printing TPU or TPE?

>> No.1724270

PETG. It is a hardcase.

>> No.1724272

>hex pattern

>> No.1724273

textured PEI is best case for PETG.

>> No.1724274

Why aren't you using any bottom layers? Try printing the first layer slower.

>> No.1724275

Shot into the dark: Clean the masking tape with alcohol, clean the nozzle and give it another shot if you are adventures.
Otherwise look up print profiles for PETG on the Ender 3. PETG in general has a nasty habbit of sticking a bit too much to nozzles.

>> No.1724301

I always print my petg parts on wood glue.
It might be weird but it works incredibly

>> No.1724312

>wood glue.
This or gluesticks, does not only give good bed adhesion it also protects your printbed surface to a certain degree.

>> No.1724314

>PETG in general has a nasty habbit of sticking a bit too much to nozzles
Speaking of this, has anyone tried nozzles with a "non-stick coating", like those Nozzle X? Does it actually work or is it just a marketing thing?

>> No.1724317

Thanks so much for the help. I am looking and I think the nozzle is just really due for a cleaning. Has been printing like a champ that last few weeks constantly.

>> No.1724339

get a prusa

>> No.1724362

>spend like 1.5 hours trying to get my new ender 3 levelled using the paper method
>rage and say fuck it and start searching around youtube for some more info
>only TT enunciates that it's not going to be actually levelled just in range since all beds are deformed in some way and it's best to just get in the manually adjust it with very simple test prints afterwards

>> No.1724385

buy better bed springs, those will lessen the expansion when the bed heats but even with the stock springs i never had much issue getting the bed level enough

>> No.1724436

>kerosene instead of IPA
Why would you WANT to? IPA is dirt cheap and easier to handle than literal fuel.
Each brand has its own, blanket statement is impossible to make here
>how rigid
Very. It's reasonably strong that you could make functional parts out of it.

>> No.1724440

What's your first layer height?
I print .2 first layers always, regardless of if I'm doing thinner layers after, because it makes it much easier to get adhesion and it compensates for the warping your bed gets when it heats. I don't even have to use paper now, I just push the nozzle to each corner, eyeball it, and it works fine.
If you're willing to spend some money, BLTouch is pretty easy to install and set up, with it you only need to level the bed once. Some people with it just tune their bed once and then put hot glue on the adjustment screws so the bed will stay tuned.

Something you can do for free and that also makes things easier is installing the latest marlin 2.0 software. With it you can click your display wheel twice to get a "micro stepping" menu, which lets you fine adjust the nozzle height. You can use it to tune the printer as it goes. Just slice your print to have a wider brim or skirt, and then adjust the nozzle while the printer moves. You can do this with the tuning wheels too if you want, just be careful you don't burn yourself.

>> No.1724443
File: 3.53 MB, 3120x4160, IMG_20191127_191409625.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

What's causing this? Cr10, Chinese pla,60 on bed and 210 nozzle. Hairspray on fresh glass. It doesn't stick to previous lines and bows up and down. I'll admit I'm kinda a noob but never really run into this. Maybe bed too far from nozzle?

>> No.1724450


>> No.1724454

you need to dry your filament bro

>> No.1724461

what slicer are you using? since your perimeters are fine, the infill itself must be printing too fast for the first layer causing it to lift up before it can cool/stick enough. check your settings or try a different slicer.

>> No.1724464

>Maybe bed too far from nozzle?
yes, calibrate bed/nozzle height
also use a glue stick instead of hair spray, less messy

>> No.1724465

I see your infill is set to 80mm/s. depending on the slicer, this might override the first layer speed that you have set to 20mm/s. set it to 30-40mm/s and see if it's better.

>> No.1724470

Why? How can you tell? That print looks alright to me, that's about the quality you can expect from Enders anyway.

>> No.1724480

Alright, a Prusa i3 fell into my lap and I now have it built.For real, I don't know what to do now.

>> No.1724482

give it to me. cheers!

>> No.1724483

Should I upgrade to the Mk8 Extruder? Should I look for a firmware update?

>> No.1724485

Which i3 is it? A mk8 isn't an upgrade for anything made recently.

>> No.1724487

Level bed better, increase initial layer extrusion to 150 - 200%

>> No.1724489

It's one that has sat in a box since 2017, so I just assumed that means something better has come along since but I'm a wood and metal guy with CAD/CNC experience. I'm planning on making some cutting jigs and things like that.

I mean, I'm excited to have this, I was thinking I'd maybe get one next year (wasn't sure what to get) but had not researched these yet and yesterday I get this one basically in a ,"Hey, do you want this?" situation like some of my tools.

>> No.1724493

you don't need to 'do' anything with it. Just design things and print them.

>> No.1724500

Might just be the Chinese PLA. Some brands are absolute garbage and will give shit results no matter what you do.

>> No.1724502

Is it actually *the* Prusa i3 or is it a copy/clone? Not that it matters much, but the "real" one is something people usually don't let go of just like that, from what I've seen.
>wood and metal guy
Try making routing guides, hole jigs, and sheet metal forming tools with it.

>> No.1724506


It's branded Alunar Prusa i3. One of those kits you assemble. The guy was never going to put it together I have it on the stipulation when he needs something made that I take care of it. Fair trade.

>> No.1724514

>It's branded Alunar Prusa i3
Ah, so not a Prusa i3. OK, you may actually need to do some surgery.

>> No.1724516

Could you make some suggestions? I noticed the Z Axis stop switch is move able by 2 inches or so and I assume that's located be the length of the extruder element but not exactly sure where it should be places.

I fired it up half expecting it to explode from my wiring talents but it turned on a went home to all axis when I got in the menu. Not nearly as loud as I thought it would be either.

>> No.1724520

Bought both but they’re slower to ship than the machine itself and I figured I wanted to print at least the common hotfixes before waiting for those.

>> No.1724526
File: 138 KB, 1000x1000, Paving stone.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>Not nearly as loud as I thought it would be either
If you want to make it even quieter, grab a paving stone from a home improvement store. Mine went from "pretty quiet" to "I have to check if it's still on and printing". For a dollar fifty, I think that's a pretty good "upgrade".

>> No.1724538

Original was with .4mm nozzle and I switched to .6. I reoriented 90 degrees (thinking it'd be less likely to bump in that direction), slowed it 25%, and used Z-hop and it failed worse than this: made giant ball of filament. Might switch back to .4 and just do the 25% slowdown.

>> No.1724550

Sorry for my ineptitude with this stuff but what's a good slicer program for my Prusa Clone?

>> No.1724558

PrusaSlicer is my favorite all-around (used to be Slic3r but they improved it and re-released it), and I've heard Cura is decent, never used it. Simplify3D is pretty bad, but usable, I guess.

>> No.1724580

Thanks. I honestly appreciate the suggestion.

>> No.1724655

Used coated nozzles from Micro Swiss and Mapa Refining, they make printing more reliable and get better printing results. But they do not do wonders, keep that in mind.

>> No.1724666

I am going to use the duet5 board with an expansion. This way I can use 7 stepper motors without trouble

>> No.1724706
File: 102 KB, 551x551, mandog.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Can you acetone dip PETG?

>> No.1724709

no. true PETG is completely insoluble to acetone.

>> No.1724718
File: 68 KB, 700x700, thinking_man.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

so it's great for acetone then
since it won't damage your prints

>> No.1724721

Yes. If your prints really are all-PETG.

>> No.1724724

Keep in mind that acetone still can effect the color pigments of the filament.

>> No.1724732

>Keep in mind that acetone still can effect the color pigments of the filament.
Not in a through-dyed polyester it's not.

>> No.1724751

Someone please tell me how to center the pivot in Blender to the geometry I have selected PLEASE

>> No.1724807


PET is what they make the bottle that holds the acetone out of...

>> No.1724817
File: 30 KB, 333x392, Origin.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Shift-S and the option that suits you, or pic related

>> No.1724842

Same as how every regular filament is waterproof and still sucks up water out of air?

>> No.1724848

Things can be waterproof while still being hygroscopic

>> No.1724863

The problem with the bullseye is that it actually cools too much.
I've set mine to 35% cooling. With 100% I start to get warping and totally shit adhesion on layers

>> No.1724867

How important is manufacturing tolerances with hot end blocks? Mine keeps leaking, so I'm going to say pretty, but is it worth buying from somewhere more reputable than aliexpress to avoid this, will I still have to periodically retighten the nozzle and threaded tube irregardless of cost?

>> No.1724870

Very. I've never had problems with a properly tightened E3D V6, and I swap nozzles about every week. Company I work for changes them so damn often they'll wear out the regular aluminium ones, E3D recommended us the nickeled copper ones if you want an absolutely bulletproof solution (with better heat distribution too).
Not shilling for them either, just stating that I've never had issues with the genuine stuff.

>> No.1724874

And you think it could not be similar in some cases with acetone?

>> No.1724883

More specifically about polyester, not acetone.
Have you ever tried to dye/color/bleach polyester? or dealt with any of the color dyes?

>> No.1724886

I know we all like to shit on the Ender for being cheap, but mine honestly seems pretty well made. So far the only upgrades I've done that haven't backfired have been a SKR board for quiet steppers, a BLTouch and a DIY filament sensor made from the old Z endstop. Even today decent stepper drivers and a BLTouch aren't standard in the Ender's price class, so I don't think it's entirely fair to fault them on not including them as stock, and filament sensors are rare even in more expensive printers.

>> No.1724887

it... what? Could you rephrase that another way?

>> No.1724899

Go google "ender 3 power plug melting".
It's still Chinese, it has typical Chinese issues.

>> No.1724909

>and a DIY filament sensor made from the old Z endstop
Clever girl.

>> No.1724911

same here, have had no issues with ender 3, just got amazing print quality and no reason to get something else.

>> No.1724922
File: 115 KB, 800x800, IMG_20191129_001059.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Thank you, but I can't take credit. I did come up with the idea on my own, but the actual part I printed is just a remix of some guy's work on thingiverse.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3850237 is my remix of it, it's basically the same but with a cutout so it doesn't rest on the solder joints. Lets the PCB sit flush with the mount, which is nice for my perfectionism.

>> No.1724923

Not to insult your idea, but i was expecting something with a wheel moving over the filament. Well, maybe give us a report in a few month if the filament has grinded parts of the end stop lever away.

>> No.1724927

I've been using it since July with no issues. The filament moving over the button arm isn't going to do any damage, it's steel. The filament never moves against the filament sensor mount, there's bowden tubes on both sides. It's missing one section in the picture because I was doing something and forgot to put it back, but this works fine.

My end stop lever isn't going to be ground away by this, I'm using a shitty aluminium "upgrade", but even on the stock it wouldn't do any damage, the filament is perfectly straight from the out hole on the sensor to the gear on the extruder.

>> No.1724928

I thought I saw a cock on thingiverse the other day.

>> No.1724936

Not the one I saw, but have a dick.

>> No.1724945

Good to hear, often it is the little things that can fuck you over.

>> No.1724962

Has anyone here tried using caustic soda to dissolve PLA? Apparently it can be used on supports, but I want to use it to clean some components where there was some overflow.

>> No.1725019

One of the main things holding me back when it comes to buying a resin print is that I dont have a well ventilated space for it. I would essentially just have to stick it outside during operation.
But theres the somewhat new
>QIDI tech shadow 5.5 S
Which as chuuni as it sounds, seems to be a better version of the elegoo mars I was considering. It cost about $40 more right now but includes a bottle of resin so maybe $20 more. The two things over the mars I care about are the dual z axis linear rails and the activated carbon filtration system. Since it has a filter system I might be able to use it indoors.

>> No.1725021

From what I've read, activated carbon will reduce odors but won't reduce toxicity.

>> No.1725022

Ignore this, just learnt that caustic soda will dissolve aluminium and copper

>> No.1725048

Sticking a resin printer by a window and pointing a fan at it is good enough. Alternatively, next to the exhaust on your stove.

>> No.1725071

Dude, it would take something like a decade for filament to wear through that steel. Her idea is perfectly alright.

>> No.1725149

Hello all.
I'm looking to get into 3D printing. I have done some research and I can't decide between the Ender 3 and the Geeetech A10. I'm leaning towards the A10, but that might be because due to my inexperience I'm looking at the wrong features, or I'm missing something important. Can you help?

>> No.1725157

Just got an ender 3 with glass bed here but one side of the bed (back-left) is higher than the others and I can't get the paper test to work on all sides at once. Either the back-left is too high and the nozzle will scrape the bed or the front-right is too low and it won't be near the nozzle even if I unscrew it all the way.
Any idea what the problem could be?

>> No.1725159

Thanks for this. Gonna get the Geeetech A10.

>> No.1725164

When it comes to having issues and problems with their printers i would say that Geetech is a bigger offender than Creality in the past. Dunno if that had changed in the recent time. Would go for the Ender 3, it is black friday, so you might even get a good deal.

>> No.1725165

Is this assburgers or was that actually your idea? Mr. Michelle

>> No.1725166

Youre gonna have to start from scratch leveling it. Basically tighten all screws and try to loosen them until its even. Might also have to adjust your endstop. I had to go through this process when I put a glass bed on my duplicator i3.

>> No.1725176


>> No.1725183

I keep hearing my printer when it's turned off. Is this normal?

>> No.1725184

does it stop when you unplug it?

>> No.1725191

Ended up with a temp solution in aluminium foil to shore up one side of the glass until I get my BL touch. Will see how it goes in printing.

>> No.1725202

I did. And Creality and Geeetech are both listed as chinkshit brands. The sticky recommends Creality but without any arguments why. What I found online is that the two are matched, but usually the person reviewing it gives the edge to Geeetech. That's why I came here, to hear actual arguments for one over the other. Like this anon: >>1725164

>> No.1725203


>> No.1725205

is it only after you have been printing
or also before, when everything is ambient temp
might be some thermal contraction when it's cooling down

>> No.1725206

Having written the sticky: there's more people ITT with a subtype of the Ender, than with any type of the Geeeeeeeeeetechs. The Creality is pretty much the goto beginner printer for good reason: it's cheap, it does what it says on the tin (not much more) and survey says 99% of them won't burn your house down. Can't say that for the Geeetechs. Personally, I know six people with an Ender 3, none of them have had any significant issues, and they're happy with them - can't say the same for the Geeetech. The only advantage is some minor improvements, which you can get on the E3 Pro as well iirc.

>> No.1725207

Like you hear the sound of steppers when the printer is off? Yeah that's inevitable

>> No.1725212

Cool, thank you. I'll go with Ender 3 Pro. :)

>> No.1725225

And of course it wouldn't adhere at all after this and now I can't find the proper amount I had earlier with the foil. Getting this POS up and running is turning out to be a major pain.
The big issue is that even if I loosen the screws all the way up it won't even out. Either it'll scrape one side (the back-left one) or one or two of the others will be way too far away from the nozzle.

Absolutely no clue how to solve this issue as-is so any help would be appreciated.

>> No.1725227

Sounds like you need to lower your z-stop.

>> No.1725236

Yep, solved it. (despite having tried that multiple times before)
The problem was the clips on the plate being misaligned along with the z-stop aligment.
Fixed the clips and and got the z-stop to auto home exactly right for the higher edge meant I could now only just trammel the plate correctly.
Probably also partly due to the springs being shit.
First print seems to adhere perfectly onto the glassbed and everything is looking good.

Could have saved myself about 6 hours of pain but now it's finally printing no problem.

>> No.1725241

>Probably also partly due to the springs being shit.
Good springs can be had for 10 bux on amazon.

>Could have saved myself about 6 hours of pain but now it's finally printing no problem.

Welcome to 3d printing.

>> No.1725242

Do extruders really need such beefy stepper motors? Having taken apart printers, which use teeny steppers to throw the print head back and forth.

>> No.1725257

Then you are better off with the CR-10.

>> No.1725259

Do you mean the extruder stepper which pushes the filament, or the steppers which move the extruder assembly?

>> No.1725267

Stepper that pushes the filament.

>> No.1725270

Well, sort of. Most extruders consist of a little gear that mounts directly onto the shaft of the stepper. You can't really make the gear smaller, which means the only way to get good torque is by fitting a bigger motor. The option is something like a BMG, which is a gearbox that downshifts the stepper to get good torque.
But getting enough torque is a real problem, especially on bowden setups where you need to maintain a higher nozzle pressure. Try heating your printer up and pushing filament through by hand, you need to use a bit of force.

>> No.1725272

>Try heating your printer up and pushing filament through by hand, you need to use a bit of force.
I just tried and I'm surprised by the force it needs.

>> No.1725275

Ender 3 Pro (for the meanwell PSU) or if you can spring it the Ender 5 is well worth the extra cost.

Not if it's geared like a BMG or Titan, you can use a smaller stepper motor which is great for direct drive.

>> No.1725283

What do you guys think of https://shop.snapmaker.com/products/snapmaker-2-0-modular-3-in-1-3d-printers?variant=19732249706565

The sealed linear rails at that price seem nuts to me.

>> No.1725288

How stable is the ender 5 pro? I'm looking to enclose a cube style printer for filaments that need a heated chamber

>> No.1725289

The Pro is just a better PSU and ... ?

>> No.1725297

It also has the motherboard mounted upside down, meaning that accessing it is more annoying but that plastic scrap won't fall into the fan, and it comes with a pretty good magnetic buildtak ripoff sheet.

>> No.1725300

>the Ender 5 is well worth the extra cost
It's only 50€ more, not a big deal. So yeah, might go for that if you think it's worth it. Looking at aliexpress. They even ship free from Germany.

>> No.1725314
File: 1.23 MB, 1500x1924, Untitled-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I mean I could be wrong but this looks like moisture pockets. The moisture gets to the nozzle and rapidly turns to steam, causing bumps and also crackling noises during printing.

>> No.1725317

Looks more like the start/endpoint of the outer shell.

>> No.1725336

Yes, it needs to be pretty beefy. Some extruders reduce the gear ratio even further.

Now just imagine how much pressure you need to injection mold things like a mouse in one shot without it cooling too fast. And a keyboard. And a folding table.

>> No.1725337

Those look more like Z-seams to me than anything

>> No.1725340

Is Sainsmart a reputable brand? Looks like they have a new corexy printer

>> No.1725361

Any blacked friday deals on decent printers?

>> No.1725367

Ender 5 is 280 on amazon

>> No.1725368

Normal 5 + SKR E3 is a better deal than the pro since it has a 32 bit processor.

>> No.1725375

Do you have the ender 5? Kinda curious about how it handles high speed prints (100mm/s), can it handle it without serious backlash from having a motor mounted on the top?

>> No.1725387

Anycubic photon 50%

>> No.1725389

Are there any decent kits for a h bot or core XY or something like that? I want to make something big, like a Voron, but don't really have the competence to do it from scratch.

>> No.1725391

>something big
get one of those giant deltas like the anycubic predator

>> No.1725398
File: 63 KB, 763x372, chinkshit.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Is this the correct official creality store on aliexpress? I'm all paranoid about that site after being burned a few times.

>> No.1725439

Yeah right now I'm installing the hero me dual fan duct and a micro Swiss clone as well as a quieter 4010 fan. Still waiting for my SKR E3 to come in the mail.

I haven't pushed it yet, I'm gonna try for 100mm/s+ once I get the new board and set up Klipper. The roller system is really rigid and I don't have any worries about running it that fast. I'm going direct drive as well, but putting a smaller stepper motor and a geared BMG clone on instead. I think people overplay how much weight affects the print head. Stepper motors with nice TMC drivers are super strong and should be able to fling the print head around with ease.

Ender 5 Plus? It's pretty new but generally it's a bigger and upgraded Ender 5. Takes like 30 mins to an hour to set up. Otherwise the SK-Go is an excellent deal if you don't mind waiting for restock and don't mind it not coming partly assembled like the Ender.

>> No.1725444

Weight tends to be an issue when you get past a certain impulse acceleration iirc. The reason why linear advance was implemented was because people started turning that down to go up in speed but slower jerks caused the corners and curves to blob/overextrude. It's also why stuff like carbon fiber gantries, bed plates, and why h-bot and coreXY got more attention from DIYers who wanted to achieve industrial grade speeds.

>> No.1725446

>Otherwise the SK-Go is an excellent deal if you don't mind waiting for restock
It's being restocked tomorrow according to the maker. Sad the sk-mini got cut from the 2nd batch. $800 shipped is a bit much for me to swallow especially when some bits and pieces still need to be printed

>> No.1725521
File: 619 KB, 2172x3862, 20191128_174400.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Finally got all the parts printed and put together for this pumpkin spider for my wife. The joints were a bitch, and even with sanding down, some cracked when pressed together. Overall, very happy with it on my stock cr-10s

>> No.1725527

300 cubed+ sized printers that aren't bed flingers are probably going to run $500-800 DIY or not. Do you need a large build volume?

Yeah but a pancake stepper and a mostly plastic BMG extruder don't add enough weight to really become a problem for the steppers. I think the gains in things like sharp corners or part accuracy from direct drive are worth using it for. Also makes tuning new materials easier.

As I remember linear advance was implemented to compensate for each individual printer's distance from the extruder to the nozzle and is primarily used to compensate for the filament slack in a Bowden application. You need a much lower linear advance value for direct drive. It's still useful but not as much as for Bowden setups.

>> No.1725532

>300 cubed+ sized printers that aren't bed flingers are probably going to run $500-800 DIY or not. Do you need a large build volume?
Smaller actually, the SK mini was the perfect size to tuck away. Probably never going to need more than 200mm one way. I wanted to stick a e3d chimera on it but I might go with the ender 5 or build a hypercube. I'm looking for something to enclose for ABS and HIPS

>> No.1725613

Wanted to print that for Halloween, but then i ran out of orange filament, was a bit too greedy with the size.

>> No.1725648

If you hollow a model out with something like meshmixer, do you also need to place a shitload of internal supports to hold it all together?

>> No.1725691

I’m on the same page, the only thing I’ve done is add a glass bed to the printer which has made my life a lot easier.
Anything else I’ve done is just for fun, like a side spoil mount, tool bin, and a new knob

>> No.1725715

I know what you mean. I went to the Voron site to look at the bill of materials, and it was this ridiculously long list containing brand-specific and expensive linear rails, which meant I couldn't even save some money by buying Chinese clone parts. I honestly think it might be easier to just design your own coreXY at this point, just buying whatever profiles and rails your hardware store carries and designing your printer around those. The actual machine isn't actually that complex, it's mostly a matter of getting everything squared and tight, which is easy if you already have a decent printer since you can just print custom tools and fittings for everything. Angle brackets and other fittings for aluminium profiles are all over thingiverse, so you might not even need to CAD anything. Even that "Voron parts must be printed from ABS" seems a bit excessive, since PLA+ is a more rigid plastic nowadays. If you're not putting it in an enclosure, it shouldn't matter. I suspect the Voron guys might be gatekeeping to keep Enderfags out.

>> No.1725717

How big?

>> No.1725719

Well, minimum for what I want to do is 250mm cubed, but unless it's massively more expensive I'd rather go for 300mm cubed.

>> No.1725720

>containing brand-specific and expensive linear rails
They're hiwin mgn9hs. There are a fair amount of clones out there, but they should have used MGN12H. The 12mm rails are by fair more common in terms of clones and have been used by plenty of people so they have good sources for cheaper chinese ones.

Voron honestly seems a little over designed.

>> No.1725721

You can try the (new?) Sainsmart Coreception. It's 300x300x330mm, but I have no idea how good it is. CoreXY is simple but a lot of chinese still can't get it right, the moving belts need to be parallel so the distances don't change as the carriage moves around. Fortunately the Coreception looks like it has completely parallel belts which is a good sign, but can't speak for the quality of the components. For that size you could have a look at the hypercube evolution which should be perfectly fine up to 300mm. Or you can look at the sk-go which is around $800 shipped from taiwan

>> No.1725728

>Sainsmart Coreception
>hypercube evolution
Thanks for the pointers. That SK-GO looks very promising, it seems like exactly what I want. 300x300x350 with all the parts I need for 660USD including shipping. Coreception also looks good, but at 160 dollars cheaper I'll admit I'm a bit suspicious. They must be saving on something, right?

>> No.1725730

Well Sainsmart is one of those mass kit chinese companies like Creality. Quality may be hit or miss. The sk-go is a one man hobby turned business IIRC and he actively works on updates and software/firmware fixes. The only issue I have with the sk-go is that some stuff, like the fan brackets and some junk have to be printed, although you can purchase them from him for a rather steep price for a handful of parts. It's billed as your "second kit" hence the seckit brand name.

>> No.1725731
File: 109 KB, 800x800, Big-Working-Table-2040-Router-CNC-Machine-for-Engraving-and-Cutting-Model-Kits-Wooden.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Thoughts on making a "table cnc" style very large printer?
I'm thinking of something like 1000x300x100 print area.
Replace the linear rails in pic related with aluminum extrusions and bolt everything onto a 5mm thick steel plate, this steel plate also works as the print surface.
It wouldn't have an exceptional acceleration due to it being huge and there being quite a lot of weight swinging around but throw a volcano hotend on there and the print speed ought to be pretty ok.
And as for bed leveling i'm thinking of using some sensor, mechanical or induction, on the hotend and then doing surface mapping to account for surface imperfections of the print surface.
I'm not quite sure as of yet which axis ought to be the long one, currently i'm thinking of making the axis in pic related that goes from right to left but i'm not quite sure.

>> No.1725732

>Z-axis 1/10th the size of your X-axis
If you're only printing 2D-objects, why are you building a 3D-printer?

>> No.1725735

This desu, you could just use it as a mill

>> No.1725736

I'll be printing every wide and not very tall objects. Molds for quite flat parts to be specific.
Also, be honest, how often do you print objects above 100mm? i think i could do with a print area only 100mm tall on my ordinary printer.

>> No.1725738

Maybe for some really soft stuff like foam, i'm not designing this thing with frame rigidity in mind since 3d printers don't need too much of that.

>> No.1725749

Might as well build a small printfarm then, and connect blocks with dovetail joints.
>how often do you print objects above 100mm?
Not very often, true - but then again, most people rarely printer larger than 100mm cubed. The problem is that people rarely consider redesigning an object into parts so it'll fit into multiple printers at once, which massively increases your production speed and reduces your failure rate. Most people should consider buying a printer for 80% of their printing needs (in terms of print volume), and outsourcing or slicing up the rest.

>> No.1725750

Does anyone know how to get BLTouch v3.1 to work with klipper on an SKR 1.3 board

Ive had this thing for a fucking month

>> No.1725755

Dovetailing parts together is kind of an iffy solution but i might give it a try first.

>> No.1725759

>Coreception also looks good, but at 160 dollars cheaper
It's on amazon with free shipping with prime for $480. Close to $300 cheaper after all costs

>> No.1725760

Probably best to go with the SK then. It looks a lot sturdier anyway. I don't really mind printing parts, I can do PETG pretty well on my Ender.
Amazon doesn't ship to my country, but damn that's a bargain.

>> No.1725779

>Probably best to go with the SK then. It looks a lot sturdier anyway. I don't really mind printing parts, I can do PETG pretty well on my Ender.
Yea the SK is probably a good one. Chinese kits can be hit or miss. It will be open for order today I believe, but there's a big facebook group waiting for it to come out so you'll want to keep an eye on it if you want one. Like I said, one man project, so he probably won't have a ton of units to sell per batch. He sent out times earlier this week but I think I deleted the email. There is one concern that I've seen some people raise with other corexys, and it's that the corexy pulley mechanisms are just screwed down at the bottom and not braced at the top. Apparently it's possible to tighten the belts enough to pull a nut out of place or bend a screw over time, although I don't know if that's a particular problem with the sk-go, just a concern floated around when custom coreyx printer designs started coming out. The popular diy designs like the hypercube put the pulley bolt through a top and bottom so it's supported at both ends evenly.

>> No.1725787

Unless there's a lot of internal overhangs, not really, it tends to hold itself together. Plus, generally, you don't care about the surface finish on the inside.

>> No.1725789

>Amazon doesn't ship to my country,
??? Are you in Turrkmenistan or Gabon?

>> No.1725790

>printing molds
At that size, why not just go all-out and CNC them out of wood or such? You'd definitely get a better surface finish than printing them.

>> No.1725912

you need to do a lot of sanding and such when cnc:ing them out of wood, in fact finishing the surface is pretty much the same process wether its printed or milled

>> No.1725972

99.9% of the time the cool stuff you can find on American Amazon isn't available on the German one, and that's the only one delivering to eastern europe. If something is available, it's shipping from China anyway so I might as well skip the middle man and just buy it on Ali.

>> No.1725979
File: 76 KB, 516x412, Screen Shot 2019-11-30 at 11.38.34 PM.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

how flexible is PETG? just modeled this hook for an Elfa shelf system, it needs to bend a little bit to snap into the slot

>> No.1726025

The U shaped part? Yeah it will move a few mm and clip in.

>> No.1726148

yeah the U, thanks

>> No.1726159

yeah, that'll work fine. PETG bends and doesn't fatigue like PLA.
You might want to make the inside of the U rounded though, if it's gonna die, it'll crack at one of the inner corners.

>> No.1726209

isn't ABS better for that?

>> No.1726221

ABS is a bitch to print on most printers though without any preparation or additinal parts like an enclosure. PETG is fine for that and i say that as someone that uses a ton of ABS.

>> No.1726226

for such a flat part like that surely a heated bed is sufficient

>> No.1726241

Enjoy your warping.

>> No.1726264

no such thing

>> No.1726278

I'll just use a 2500mm brim.

>> No.1726280

Print a wall around your print. Instant enclosure if you don't have one

>> No.1726286

that helps. Depending on the part it can help a lot. For something that big? Mmmm... maybe not.

>> No.1726288
File: 1.19 MB, 1900x1151, notbadABS.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

[tall skinny parts? helps a lot.
wide flat part? Not so much.]

>> No.1726300

Sure it will. It'll just take a little extra time. Even with just a heated bed you can easily reach 50-60C just from an enclosure. It's enough for ABS. It's not like everyone printing ABS is exclusive printing with Stratasys machines that can reach 90-100C.

>> No.1726306

>Sure it will.
Speaking from experience here.... be prepared for some frustration.

>> No.1726313

New fag here.
I ordered a longer lk4 pro.
How fucked am i ?

>> No.1726314

Pretty badly fucked
should have bought a prusa

>> No.1726317

Chinkshit is usually a bad choice for newcomers. Instructions and support are shit and they're usually not the best designed

>> No.1726318

Dude, fuck off already. I'm not the guy you responded to and already have a prusa, but even for me, that shit is getting repetitive and stupid. You keep posting the same meme response every fucking time

>> No.1726319

Agreed. I'm Teamorange and I find the whole schtik tiresome.

>> No.1726320

going from a chinkshit printer to a prusa affected me on such a personal level that i cannot ever stop reminding people to not make the same mistake as i did

>> No.1726322

sorry bruv i cant afford a prusa this chinkshit was 150 deutschmarks

>> No.1726324

I wouldn't leave it alone. Cheap chinkshit still have issues with electrical connections coming loose due to improper crimps or ill fitting connectors and so forth.

>> No.1726327

Oh if anyone can say a better printer around that price please do , i may be able to cancel that order

>> No.1726330

For the price? Probably not. You have been better of spending more on something from creality, just because they have a much larger community that's addressed or at least raised flags about many of the problems out of the box. But if you're okay with tinkering then by all means keep it

>> No.1726332

You prolly won't find anything better for that price but imo working a part time job for a couple of weekends and then having enough money for a proper machine is a way better option than cheaping out, you'll probably have to work less manhours in the part time job than on the 150€ printer anyway.

>> No.1726334

get an anycubic kossel
yes it's a delta and calibration can be a pain, you also wanna invest in a good bed level sensor like the bltouch asap
but you will get a mechanically and electrically solid printer for 150€

>> No.1726337

anycubic i3 mega ?

>> No.1726339

just go with whatever, they're all the same in the end

>> No.1726340

personally i don't like any printer with a bed moving in any direction other than z
but most people think differently and it won't cause a housefire so go ahead

>> No.1726344

Anycubic is mostly known for their resin printers but seem to have an active community. The key with chinkshit is to find something that has an active American community desu. It puts pressure on the chinese manufacturers to listen to feedback because Americans will scream about everything

>> No.1726345

the only reason they are known for their resin printers is because they already had a solid fdm customer base
and were one of the first to get into cheap resin

>The key with chinkshit is to find something that has an active community
honestly that symbiosis between chink manufacturing prowess and western ingenuity and open source software
is why 3d printing could become as big and accessible to the /diy/ community as it is today

>> No.1726346

>honestly that symbiosis between chink manufacturing prowess and western ingenuity and open source software
>is why 3d printing could become as big and accessible to the /diy/ community as it is today
Yea, unfortunately some of the chinese manufacturers want to close the door after gathering the community and others don't listen to begin with unless they're really shouted at

>> No.1726347

Okay guys Thanks for the help. i asked the seller to cancel the order im ordering a kossel all of you maybe saved a life today :,)

>> No.1726348
File: 1.56 MB, 2648x2048, 75%.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Took the weekend to figure out the basics of Fusion360 and made myself a 75% mechanical keyboard, at least a raw test print of it. I'm quite happy how this came out, now I gotta fix a few little things and print it with a higher density. It's only 20% infill with 2 walls printed with a 0,6mm nozzle and 0,48 layer height. I wanted to make a quick print to check it out but I really like the big sausage layers you get at 0,48 and I'll probably stick to that with a higher infill.
It looked real flimsy during printing because of the big gaps but ended up being quite sturdy.

>> No.1726349
File: 142 KB, 862x543, 1548534408156.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>a delta

>> No.1726350

Right click the design on the top left and select "capture design history"

>> No.1726353

You should try to print it so the longest axis is flat on the bed.

>> No.1726356

The point of this design was to print it vertically from the very beginning. I wanted the smooth round layers instead of the usual star step look.
It also needed less supports.
Thank you, I didn't know about that.

>> No.1726357

*stair not star

>> No.1726359

Also you might want to consider going into "display settings" on bottom middle and changing the "environment" to something other than "photo booth", at least i find it horribly bright, hurts my eyes after some time designing.

>> No.1726373

I just bought the tevo tornado for $200 off AliExpress with free shipping, and it's amazing. Prints 30 minutes after opening the box, everything straight.

>> No.1726393

Ender 3 is also on sale at their site

>> No.1726417

>Prints 30 minutes after opening the box, everything straight.
When you are the only one that got a gay printer. Feels bad.

>> No.1726682
File: 104 KB, 1195x865, Cubes.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

First printed the cube on the left with a custom designed extruder, had some severe underextrusion, axes weren't calibrated, some other minor problems. Mostly ghosting resulting from that inconsistent extruder.
Calibrated the axes properly, and installed a Bondtech QR. Set E-steps to their recommended value (not sure if that's a good idea without calibrating E-steps, but hey), and printed the cube on the right. Ghosting due to the extruder is gone, but with the X-Y bed it's still got some scruffy looking corners - so I'm going to do some acceleration tuning next. what's the deal with the top surface though? The ''outlines'' are perfect, but the middle square is extremely rough. Overextrusion with the nozzle dragging through it? Anybody got an idea here?
>Yes I read the sticky
>No Simplify doesn't have a solution

>Printer make & model: Custom built, X,Y-bed with a Z-head for research purposes
>Filament type/brand: Nylon 12, unknown brand
>Bed & extruder temperature: 265C head, 80C bed, 0 cooling, no enclosure (yet)
>Print speed: 30mm/s max
>Nozzle size: 0.8mm
>Layer height: 0.2mm
>Wall number: 3
>Top/bottom layers: 8
>Infill: 30%
>Retraction: 0.5mm @ 10mm/s
>Brim lines: 10 (8mm total)

>> No.1726701

Looks like over-extrusion. Go ahead and calibrate the e steps as a starting point, at least.

>> No.1726814

You should buy your Creality shit from the offical store imo. Like 90% of the people whining about the quality of their Ender's beyond the usual issues of shit springs/warped beds etc are running some shit clone that has shit XT60s.
They also have the option to ship from Belgium so you don't get fucked by taxes.

>> No.1726819

>are running some shit clone that has shit XT60s.
Even the official models had this though, not just the cheap copies.

>> No.1726823

>Ender 3 Pro (for the meanwell PSU)
A meanwell LRS-350-24 is like 30 bucks so it really depends on how cheap you're getting it compared to a regular Ender 3.
Ender 5 is probably worth the upgrade though.

>> No.1726829

Yes but Creality actually fixed theirs on the newer models from what I can tell.

>> No.1726895

stay in your old thread

>> No.1726911

just reduce the number of top layers to like 4

>> No.1726918

based thread

>> No.1726928

based thread higlight of my life now i can die

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