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/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself

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1664971 No.1664971 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I bought this chink shit coffee tamper for close to nothing.
The handle smells like it was smuggled out of a POW camp inside an old mans bum.
Probably some oil the chinks used to finish it.

Is there a way to remove rancid smells from wood?

>> No.1664975
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Pic related, said smelly tamper

>> No.1664977

That does not sound like a finish smell and those do not look like they have much of a finish on them, some woods just stink. Any finish should take care of it, oil, poly, lacquer, shellac, take your pick. Or just try whipping it down with some alcohol, isopropyl, denatured, vodka, what ever.

Batu wood smells like dirty socks soaked in bile.

>> No.1664978

I didn't know wood could smell this bad. It said it was made of rosewood.

>> No.1664979

rosewood is codeword for "literally any wood we could find"

>> No.1664981

CITES usually nails the fuck out of anything made of an actual 'rosewood' species as they're usually endangered.
(They also do actually smell like roses)

Lot of the stank of communism is usually the anti-fungal and insecticides they pump through timber exports to kill off most of the nasties, but its going to have soaked up a fair bit of it. I wouldn't eat off it, put it that way

>> No.1664983

Rosewoods are fragrant and their smells cover a wide range, the common rosewoods have a sweet floral fragrance suggestive of roses.

Nah, it is just that rosewood is any wood in the Dalbergia genus, which is massive.
There are a few species call rosewood which are not in the Dalbergia genus, they are called that because they have a look akin to the fancy rosewoods, Brazilian, Indian or Blackwood generally. OPs tampers are almost certainly a true rosewood.

>> No.1664984

No, most rosewoods are not endangered, CITES only lists all rosewoods because of the difficulty in distinguishing them for the average person, especially between the rare Brazilian and common plantation grown Indian. It looks like this is getting lifted though, may have already been, rosewoods will be allowed under CITES for private sales and transport.

>> No.1664985
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I made my own out of Alu and oak and it tamps really nice and has a pleasant smell. It’s the first project I made on my restored benchtop lathe

>> No.1664986

Nice work. Working white oak is one of my favorite smells.

I am a brute that uses a glass to tamp.

>> No.1665005

I tried white vinegar, didn't do much.

I'll soak it in isopropyl alcochol for an hour when I get home.

>> No.1665022

I got some rosewood blanks from Grizzly tools that ended up smelling like ass. It actually took a finish no problem, but the usual procedure is to wipe it with rubbing alcohol, then apply your finish. Spray poly is fine, or floor finish, or Tru-oil, or Tung oil; I wouldn't use boiled linseed oil because it just takes a long time to dry, and I'm betting you want coffee this week. Once you put a real finish on the smell goes away.

>> No.1665027

somebody used it as a buttplug

>> No.1665043

>Working white oak is one of my favorite smells.
A buddy gave me a nice chuck of hickory from a tree that died on his property. Burning hickory smells nice, so I didn't think cutting it would be bad. Holy fuck, it smells like ass when being worked and even after two showers, the smell lingered on my skin.

>> No.1665053

Could be that it got stuck in your nose. Shower + Saline drops usually does it for me after leatherworking.

>> No.1665075
File: 77 KB, 900x900, 026452001143.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1665116

nice but pretty shitty finish there m8
Ran out of smaller grit paper?

>> No.1665130

Yeah, gonna try to do a new one and make it rounder and make the finish smoother

>> No.1665153

>Tru-oil, or Tung oil; I wouldn't use boiled linseed oil because it just takes a long time to dry

Tru-oil is thinned linseed oil and a small amount of other oils to get a consistent tone between batches. Tung oil is generally the slowest of the common drying oils, linseed is one of the quickest, which is part of why it was/is the base for most all oil based finish products. If linseed oil takes a long time to dry it is most likely you put it on to thick, i.e. full strength, thin your oils with a suitable solvent, especially tung which is very thick. Your experience with tung drying quick was probably a 'Tung Oil Finish" which is essentially tru oil, but with a tung oil base instead of linseed. They generally put the word "finish" in small print tucked up under "Tung Oil" so people miss it

Oils have a fair amount of variation in them and dry times change from batch to batch, but all of the common finishing oils will be dry in a day or two if not applied overly thick. Full strength oils are trouble makers, especially on highly porous woods, they will drink up all the oil you give them and dry times will become excessive.

Was the wood dried? I have not encountered stinky hickory before. American Elm is a good one, common name, piss elm, thankfully almost all of the smell goes away when the wood is dried, nice wood.

>> No.1665175

>twenty three centimeters, and it still bleeds to this day

>> No.1665418


I let it soak in IPA for four hours, and after drying the smell is still there.

I'll try to finish it next. I have some rapeseed oil I use for salads. I don't think I have anything else that could be used for treating wood.

>> No.1665468

Just make a new handle and discard the smelling wood

>> No.1665621

>rapeseed oil
will take a year to dry.

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