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/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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164751 No.164751 [Reply] [Original]

So my rear axle of my 92 4Runner is bent

Shops say about $1000 to replace

I want to do it myself, but can't find any helpful tutorials for actually replacing the axle.

Any tips?

>> No.164754

go to yotatech dot com and start reading your dick off. lift kits and any other suspension kits will most likely cover the work youre looking for

>> No.164755

unbolt shocks. Unbolt driveshaft. Unbolt u-bolts, axle comes out.

>> No.164756

>>164754
yeah i've been reading for about a half hour now but it seems no one is replacing the whole axle, just messing with diffs and seals

thanks though

>> No.164760

>>164756

it pretty much just involved unbolting everything that is connected to it, rebolting it back on.

lift kits and any suspension work will probably cover what youre looking for.


and also, this is do it yourself. this guy is trying to figure out how to do it himself. /o/ is full of OMG MY CAR IS BETTER. this is appropriate

>> No.164768

>>164751
What part of the "axle"? There are two axle shafts in the rear end of the runner connected by the diff. The shafts themselves are pretty easy to pull. Is the housing bent? You can usually replace the whole assembly from the junk yard for under 500$

>> No.164778

>>164760
right, i was hoping it was a simple swap over, but i think the problem is which the gears syncing up? I'd hate to think my axle choices are limited to only those from 92 4runners...

>>164768
to be honest i have no idea, i can't see a visible bend but the tire wobbles about an inch or less when I drive it. Shop said my axle is bent and the backing plate is rubbing, this is all I know

>> No.164782

>>164778
I have a shit ton of Toys. Look for 88-93 toys. You can swap the WHOLE axle housing assembly to be sure you "fix" the whole problem. It will involve dcing the brake lines, the driveshaft, the shocks annnd Im sure Im forgetting something but Im sure you will see it when you get it apart. If you just want to do the axle shafts they are super easy, four bolts on the back of the backing plat, you dont even have to take the wheel and tire off or bleed the brakes.

>> No.164790

>>164782
thanks man! I don't really know half of what you said but I'll try to figure it out...

I guess axle shafts go inside the housing? So the only way to know if that is what's bent is to rip it out, roll it around and look for a wobble?

>> No.164791

>>164790
If you are getting rub that bad, its bent. Has the runner been in a wreck or dropped from a C-130? Bc I have totalled trucks off and not had the axles bend.

>> No.164792

>>164751
Trust me on this one, Unless you have a jack that will get hte back end of the truck atleast 4 feet off the ground, its going to be a bitch. My advice would be to find a bunch of old mattresses, drain all the fluids, take off the side mirror, and lay it on its side on top of the mattresses.

>> No.164800

>>164791
yeah a car hit it going about 5-10km/h.

>>164792
yeah I was trying to figure how I was going to do this. Seeing if anyone I know knows someone with a shop style lift

>> No.164802

>>164792
WTF are you talking about??? You are crazy. OP dont listen to this guy. SRSLY. You will need a jack and a set of stands but nothing crazy. These trucks only have like 8" of droop in stock form.

>> No.164805

>>164800
5-10 kph should not have hurt that runner that bad. Id check to see if it is something else before I went ripping the rear end apart. Something like the dust shield behind the brakes on that side. Does it brake ok?? No hard pull one way or the other?

>> No.164808

>>164805
it brakes fine, no noticeable pulling

the rim gets hot when driven for about a half hour and there is a quite an audible rubbing.

I don't know what to look for so i took it into a shop. They diagnosed it with a bent axle and sent me on my way no charge.

>> No.164812

>>164808
at least they didnt charge you. If both rims are getting hot its not just a bent axle. My bet is its a dragging brake shoe. That truck has drum brakes on the rear so if you got hit in the rear there is a chance that it knocked the shoes loose or actually dislodged them and they are rubbing the drum constantly, and that is what you are hearing. Does the braking get worse the more you drive? If you get on the highway does the braking start to fade the further you drive it?

>> No.164815

>>164808
the other possibility is its the wheel bearing(s) and they are not too bad on price but its a repair Id let a shop do bc of the time involved.

>> No.164817

>>164812
i just noticed the one rim getting hot, don't recall checking the other one though.

I've not been driving it at highway speeds since the accident. Driving across town the rim gets warm but the breaks seem to work just fine.

So what do you think is a good plan? Take it to another shop for diagnosis? Keep driving it?

I have the Chilton manual so I can maybe figure out what the brakes are supposed to look like then crawl under and see...

>> No.164889

bumping one time

>> No.164910

>>164817

Yeah, get a second opinion from another shop, maybe even a third. Was the wreck from the back into your rear end? To the side and into the rear quarter? Is it possible your rim is bent near where it attaches to the hub? Might even be a hub problem. Have you tried trading that tire with the spare? Its an easy way to rule out damage to the rims. But yeah, a second opinion is a good idea.

>> No.164916

Don't even think about making this a DIY matter if you can't lift your car up safely. You'll need a pair of jack stands and a floor jack to lift it, and even then it'll be a serious pain in the ass because it'll be so damn low to the ground. Also, do you have the proper tools to do this yourself? If you don't, the combined cost of the jacks, tools, and your time will more than like exceed the $1000 the shop will charge you.

Part of DIY is making sure you're actually capable of doing it yourself and making sure it's personally worth it.

>> No.164926

>>164808

For rear drum brakes trying pulling up on the emergency brake (when stopped). How far does it go? IMO more than 4 clicks and you need to adjust them anyway.

Dragging, rubbing, and getting hot all sound like a shoe is sticking. I know when I tighten the drums up on my wife's Rodeo they get pretty warm until they settle in.

And I have yet to come across a set of drums that "auto adjust". No matter what the manual says I don't see how it's possible.

>> No.164941

>>164926

Auto adjusters work fine if clean and lubed. They adjust while braking in reverse. Jap crap adjusters are often adjusted by cycling the parking brake.

>> No.164942

step one: buy Chilton repair manual for the 4runner
step two: go to a junk yard,m remove axel from another 4runner
step three:???
step four: profit
step five: beer.

>> No.165010

From the sounds of it you simply have a single bent axleshaft.

A drum brake mounted on a bent shaft will get hot very quickly, it causes brake drag as the inward-bent side passes the shoe. You should probably replace the shoes, drum, and small hardware while you have it apart.

While you have the shaft out you should also replace the bearing(s) in that side, because they have taken quite a sideways wallop. Depending on the design of the axle the bearings may be pressed on to the shaft - in that case you will need to have a new bearing pressed on to the new shaft.

You will only need one corner off of the ground to do this repair, and no serious elevation. The assembly is staying in the truck.

The only thing you need to worry about with the replacement axleshaft is that it is the same length and splinecount as the old. I assume nearly all Toyota trucks of this era use the same axle with different gearing, so this shouldn't be a problem.

>> No.165017

4 rusted 14mm bolts on the backside of the brake backing plate is what holds the axle in the truck. Remove them and the shaft will slide out with a good yank. It will also bring the brake hardware with it, so disconnect & plug the hydraulics first.

Then you have to get the bearing carrier and brake hardware off of the old, bent axle. Officially this requires having it pressed off, but realistically people do it with sledgehammers, pipes, and scrap wood. There's also a snap-ring.

Put on a new wheel seal, too, while you have it that far apart. It's probably all torn up from being on a wobbly axle anyway.

So total parts list is:
>axle shaft
>bearing
>seal
>brake drum
>brake hardware
>brake shoes

>> No.165020

>>165017
Just a note, if you're pulling your replacement parts from a parts truck, save yourself some trouble and just install the brakes and bearings from the donor vehicle. Vastly simplifies the procedure.