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/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself

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1627790 No.1627790 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I've started a new eva craft foam helmet for a costume, pic somewhat related. I'd like to get a very high gloss gold finish, as close as possible to a metallic look. I don't think this will be possible with paint. I tried doing a vinyl wrap but there were too many fine details for that method to work.

Any ideas?

>> No.1627793
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Pic is what I'm going for in terms of sheen, although this helmet is clearly plastic which would be much easier to finish. But I just don't have the means. I'd probably need a very high end 3D printer.

>> No.1627852

How’d you do what you’re doing. Looks dope so far. You probably wont get a look like that easily from foam thats straight metal or plastic very finely polished.

>> No.1627857

How rigid does the foam get? Sealing it, putting on a couple of layers of poly and then buffing/polishing it should get it very smooth to take metallic paint. If it flexes so much it will just crack, there's no point though.

>> No.1627858

Pic wasn't mine but I've made a few helmets, weapons and armor pieces. Just takes a bit of practice and patience. Layers are key, cutting foam at 45 degree angles, using a heat gun for curvature, a dremel tool for embossing and fine details.

Anyways, I'm thinking of trying a method I saw in a video. Two coats of PVC adhesive on the foam, two coats polyurethane resin (supposedly makes the exterior effectively plastic) and three stage wet sanding ending with maybe 1200+ grit? Then two coats of paint and clear coat.

>> No.1627860

Probably fairly flexible since I will need to use thinner foam for some pieces. I would likely use a coat hanger or other type of rigid material for a skeleton which would remain hidden by another piece of foam.

I think the PVC you're suggesting is the thing I just watched a moment ago. The guy didn't clear coat it though so I don't really know how glossy an effect this method can produce.

>> No.1627919

There's a lot of the higher quality spray cans which will put down a very good gold or silver finish, however over something like a foam you're going to need multiple coverings of a filler-primer, some sanding over that and a few more coats, sanding until its really smooth and non-porous.
I would then hit it with the spray can and just let it dry well, successive lighter coats until you've got coverage.

Don't sand it after that. You'll just create a diffusing of the surface paint which will make it a satin or matt finish. From there you could look at a clearcoat but it probably won't be necessary

>> No.1627927

I would also add- do a couple of test pieces first, don't go all out on the product until you've got some kind of process and technique you're happy with the products being used.

>> No.1628195

That's probably a few layers of yellow candy coat over chrome paint rather than a straight gold metallic. As long as you can get a nice glossy black undercoat going, you can get a good chrome.

>> No.1628217
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>> No.1628226

Reminder for OP just in case you haven't tested it yet...

Some foam will INSTANTLY dissolve from the solvents in many spray paints.
So test a scrap piece first.

>> No.1629080

OP here

Thanks for all the input, I agree with everything. I've spray painted foam many times for armor projects which usually looks good, haven't experienced any chemical erosion from the paint. But the finish is always matte or dull. When I get paid on Friday I'll head over and pick up some gold paint, I have plenty of black primer. The chrome paint that was suggested sounds good too, I'll try a test piece with that as well. I'm thinking the poly resin method will work best, but we'll see. Maybe it will crack as suggested. I'll post results in a few days if this doesn't 404. Thanks diy

>> No.1629101

Black gloss paint, sprayed on, one or two coats, polish and ensure its 100% dry. then airbrush "Alclad II" gold laquer.

>> No.1629108

The main thing is to keep the can as far as reasonable from the project and do a light coat first. The propellant is what's bad and that will evaporate away from the paint almost instantly.

Would be a good idea to test in an inconspicuous spot too like on the inside

>> No.1629109

Gold paint
High-sheen clear lacquer until you reach glosstown

>> No.1629199

When I said Poly I just meant polyurethane varnish by the way, not resin.

For a thin layer two component polyurethane doesn't make much sense unless you need super good abrasion and/or chemical resistance (they use it on flooring).

>> No.1629238

Wrap it in aluminum foil and paint it faggot

>> No.1629291

I feel hydrodip would be perfect for this.
OP, if this is something you do regularly and envision continuing to do, rigging a moderate sized /diy/ hydrodip station may be worth the investment.
Lots of other applications as well, many of which can be quite lucrative.

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