/3DPG/

[Anonymous No.1625048]

Your Knife A Shit Edition

Old thread: >>1621125

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy

>Need help with prints? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 7-1-2019]
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
About Tree Fiddy: Qidi X-One2
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free:
https://www.blender.org/
https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/

[Anonymous No.1625054]

2nd for not pewpew

>>1625033
One of the first courses first years get is related to mobility. They receive a sheet metal bread box to mount an Arduino and such in, have to get it running, and then dress it up to their chosen theme. It's divergent biology in a microcosm.

[Anonymous No.1625058]

>>1625054

amazing if a first year student did this on their own.

[Anonymous No.1625062]

>>1625058
Groups of eight students work on this for 20 weeks, about 8 hours per week. We only keep the best ones, the rest are thrown away, electrical components are reused the following year, PLA gets shredded so we can reprint it soon (TM).

[Anonymous No.1625068]

>>1625054
>>1625058
Wow! I love the colour as well.

[Anonymous No.1625070]

>>1625048
SD card guy has good photography skills.

[Anonymous No.1625072]

>>1625058
can you fuck it?

[Anonymous No.1625073]

>>1625072
No, but it can probably fuck you.

[Anonymous No.1625174]

Are there any real competitors to coreXY in terms of speed/quality?
Is polar just a meme?

[Anonymous No.1625185]

>>1625174
deltas

[Anonymous No.1625222]

>>1625185
Careful, 3dpg is allergic to that word.

[Anonymous No.1625224]

>>1625174
SCARA.

[Anonymous No.1625229]

>>1625174

Ultimaker kinematics are lighter/faster

[Anonymous No.1625242]

Any opinions on the eustathios?
Can't decide on building it or a dbot.

[Anonymous No.1625256]

>>1625222
why

[Anonymous No.1625258]

>>1625174
dual wire gantry doesn't need equal belt tension

[Anonymous No.1625281]

>>1625256
Idk. Talking about deltas in 3dpg has always been like trying to argue the idea of personal responsibilities at a democratic convention. I personally think it has to do with cost of entry. Most of 3dpg are broke as fuck and cant justify the funding to get a kickass delta up and running.

[Anonymous No.1625301]

>>1625281
deltas used to be the cheapest option for a decent printer when I started
around 130€ gets you a kit

[Anonymous No.1625305]

>>1625281
why is /3dpg/ broke when the rest of /diy is filled with boomers who own $5k milling machines?

[Anonymous No.1625306]

>>1625281
Honestly do Deltas actually contribute anything useful to make up for how annoying they are to set up and calibrate? It's a cool idea don't get me wrong but it's less accurate as you move from the center of the build plate to the edge making it less useful for functional parts. Most of the limitations on how fast you can print depends more on how fast you can melt plastic and how rigid the frame is over the kinematic system itself. It's part of the reason I got rid of my bowden setup on my i3 clone, it didn't offer any inherent advantages over direct drive, only negatives.

[Anonymous No.1625312]

>>1625305
>why is /3dpg/ broke when the rest of /diy is filled with boomers who own $5k milling machines?

3d crowd is younger, lives with parents or works at Gamestop, and makes toys like Warhammer figurines. machinist crowd is older, has had real job for years, makes actual stuff.

[Anonymous No.1625316]

>>1625305
5k is cheap for industrial equipment anon...

[Anonymous No.1625325]

>>1625316
idk I pulled that figure out of my ass.

[Anonymous No.1625326]

>>1625305
price of admission

[Anonymous No.1625334]

>>1625306
>got rid of my bowden setup on my i3 clone, it didn't offer any inherent advantages over direct drive, only negatives.
enjoy your ringing

[Anonymous No.1625337]

>>1625306
How are they hard to setup?
And calibration can be automated really well on deltas.

[Anonymous No.1625344]

>>1625334
? The moving Y axis bed is literally heavier than my X axis with a pancake stepper. Bowden is a meme and a waste of time.

Besides, ringing has more to do with frame rigidity, bearing quality and acceleration/jerk settings. Modern stepper drivers can fling around stuff pretty well as long as you aren't using really high microstepping.

[Anonymous No.1625460]

I like where 3d printing is heading but man we should be way ahead. I want to be able to print graphene parts, when will that happen? we are still printing shitty plastics. when are we going to see REAL filaments that are revolutionary? even if that meant ditching fdm printers.

[Anonymous No.1625464]

>>1625460
not in the consumer market.

[Anonymous No.1625513]

So i pulled the trigger on the bltouch, also bought pic related, apparently i need it? anyways hopefully it's worth it, not like I have leveling problems but it would be nice I guess to have it. This will be a fully upgraded ender 3.

[Anonymous No.1625516]

>>1625513
all that does is allow you to plug the bltouch in instead of having to solder any connections.

[Anonymous No.1625552]

So because of my engineering program I can use any of the autodesk products free and have a pc powerful enough to run any of them easily. What is the best one for modeling, I'm only familiar with cad.

[Anonymous No.1625567]

>>1625552
>only familiar with cad
Well, you can start with learning what CAD actually is and not just thinking it's the name of a program. Other than that, Inventor and Fusion are probably what you want

[Anonymous No.1625568]

>>1625567
>mentions autodesk products
>says cad
>implications are hard
pedant, but thank you for the advice ill see about inventor first

[Anonymous No.1625590]

>>1625552
KiCAD

[Anonymous No.1625616]

I really want to try the CR10-s5, anything in particular I should buy with it? I know it'll probably need a better bed at least. I only really print with PLA, just going to go with the best ebay seller as well I guess.

It's the only one of it's kind below a couple grand, and 300 or 400mm won't cut it for what I want to do, and I don't need it to be super accurate or anything.

already have an anycubic i3 mega, am also picking up an MP select mini so I'll have 3 printers in total.

[Anonymous No.1625618]

In simplify 3d, is it possible to have a raft only for supports?
I don't want to waste plastic on the big flat base of my print since it doesn't need a raft, but i need it for the supports around it which just love to come loose in the middle of the print

[Anonymous No.1625619]

>>1625618
Just enable support floor? That's what it is in cura anyways, or support brims?

[Anonymous No.1625626]

>>1625460
>when are we going to see REAL filaments that are revolutionary?
Soon (TM), the revolution is mainly going to be fiber-filled plastics. Gradual improvement in the current plastics will happen too, but most of the stuff we're experimenting with right now is very hard if not impossible to print on consumer grade printers without heated chambers etc.

[Anonymous No.1625630]

>>1625626
Just need a consumer metal 3D printer mostly.

Or a way to print without support materials or much overhang issues for more organic designs or print in place stuff.

[Anonymous No.1625631]

>>1625630
What ever happened to those printers with a 45° axis printing on a belt?
All the hype seems to have died down.

[Anonymous No.1625632]

>>1625631
Might be easier to add a series of "arms" that can support the material as it prints and hardens into place, but that's going to require a lot of software work and expensive hardware probably .

[Anonymous No.1625633]

>>1625632
That sounds way more complicated than something like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8o22G0PqLM

[Anonymous No.1625634]

>>1625633
I'm not sure what kind of advantage a design like that even has over a normal 3D printer.

[Anonymous No.1625637]

>>1625634
The obvious one is continuously building parts without having to manually remove the print.
But because the axis angled it can also print overhangs really well.
There was a video I wanted to post of a printer like that printing a salamander figurine with tons of overhangs without supports but I can't find it.

[Anonymous No.1625638]

>>1625630
>Just need a consumer metal 3D printer mostly.
That's still a long ways off. Currently, the best way to go from CAD to metal via printing is lost PLA casting, and it's stupid cheap even if you outsource the casting.

>Or a way to print without support materials
Soluble support materials are already a solution to this, available on dual head printers which you cna buy well under 1K USD. SLS is getting cheaper and cheaper too, with printers below the 10K USD mark, which is where FDM used to be. Running costs are high though, and it'll be at least a decade or two before we can have SLS machines at home.

>>1625631
Black Belt is still around, an old teacher of mine works there.

>>1625634
Infinite build volume in one direction. This means you can make long extrustion profiles, and serial production for small parts. Overhangs also work differently because you gantry is under 45/60/30 degrees from the build ''plate'' so in some instances you can use less support material.

[Anonymous No.1625639]

>>1625637
Unless it can go a full 90 degrees and rotate as it prints I don't think it's worth investing into.

Also a Delta style pritner that could rotate the head beyond 90 degrees at times and printer under may be useful, but then you need like an extended nozzle or something.

[Anonymous No.1625640]

>>1625634
Unlimited buildspace!!!!111

[Anonymous No.1625641]

>>1625639
>Also a Delta style pritner that could rotate the head beyond 90 degrees at times and printer under may be useful
Multi-axis style printing would make the slicing way too complex (slicing is 2.5D - it doesn't really do true 3d geometric analysis because it's an exponentially harder problem).
You'd either have to use CAM style software instead of something fully automated like a slicer. Or have the slicing process take literal years.

[Anonymous No.1625642]

>>1625638
>>1625640
the build volume part is only for as long as the movable belt bed thing is though otherwise it'll just start to sag and become unworkable., can easily make it longer though with some simple rollers maybe.

[Anonymous No.1625648]

>>1625048
>Qidi X-One2
First time I've heard of this, where did it come from? It looks like yet another modified Replicator clone.

[Anonymous No.1625671]

>>1625174

[Anonymous No.1625680]

>>1625642
no shit

[Anonymous No.1625689]

>>1625626
>the revolution is mainly going to be cancer

[Anonymous No.1625691]

>>1625648
>>1625048
Motherfuckers, OP has changed the copypasta without even changing:
>[Last updated 7-1-2019]
Clearly some chinkshittery is going on here, I've never even heard of Qidi when I compiled the copypasta half a year ago, and it's never been mentioned in the /3DPG/ threads since. God dammit OP, keep yer hands off the copypasta unless it's been extensively discussed ITT.

>>1625642
>can easily make it longer though with some simple rollers maybe.
Black Belt literally includes roller tables on their printers, you can easily build your own for the length of the prints you're making. Perfect for simple extrusion profiles.

[Anonymous No.1625694]

>>1625691
>you can easily build your own for the length of the prints you're making.

so what's the world record for a print that wasn't just trying for maximum print time, but something that someone actually wanted to make, on an ordinary 3d printer? with this roller system, wouldn't it be days to print something several feet long?

[Anonymous No.1625700]

>>1625694
>with this roller system, wouldn't it be days to print something several feet long?
Depends on the print, I've printed a hollow plastic screw that was 120cm high (~4 feet) and it took 22 hours, but it had no infill on purpose (was supposed to be buoyany), three wall lines, and was about 200mm in diameter. Depending on the design you could probably make several feet of extrusion profile in less than a day.

[Anonymous No.1625707]

I can never think of anything cool to print. Anyone have something useful I could print? Thanks.

[Anonymous No.1625712]

>>1625707
>>Where can I get free things to print?
>https://www.thingiverse.com/
>https://grabcad.com/
>https://google.com/

[Anonymous No.1625716]

>>1625712
Yeah I read the sticky. But most everything on thingiverse is weeb shit.

[Anonymous No.1625719]

Thoughts on borosilicate glass and PETG?
Hairspray?

[Anonymous No.1625722]

>>1625719
I've tried everything for PETG: PEI coatings, Buildtak, Ultrabase, no-name buildplate coatings, painters tape, kapton tape, aluminium, stainless steel, bare glass and glass with glue. The only buildplate that can achieve consistent adhesion during printing and release afterwards with PETG for me, is glass + hairspray. Forgot to use hairspray once on a serious print with a ~4 square feet of surface area, damn thing stuck so well it had to be chiseled off, ruining a perfectly good buildplate.

[Anonymous No.1625730]

>>1625716
You are fucking delusional

[Anonymous No.1625733]

>>1625716
>But most everything on thingiverse is weeb shit.
That happens only if you look for degenerate stuff.

[Anonymous No.1625738]

>>1625716
thingiverse's search is pretty awful, you should try looking stuff through yeggi

[Anonymous No.1625739]

>>1625738
Thank you.

[Anonymous No.1625747]

>>1625616
Would recommend to buy a (decent clone) titan extruder + capricorn ptfe tube or somethig similar. Dont own a CR-10 myself, but friend said his print quality increased noticebly and he could print a little faster as well with those upgrades.

Alternatively you could build your own with all the luxry one of those things can offer (duet wifi, linear rails, bl-touch, etc). Those Prusa style printers are rather easy to build on their own and with what the CR10-s5 costs you also got a decent budget. Bet there are already plans out there for them.

[Anonymous No.1625755]

Problem: 0.8 nozzle had issues with extruder skipping steps when crossing infill lines using standard grid infill, and generally being pretty shitty. At its best it would skip steps, at its worst, it would just pull the infill line it was crossing off the part leading to broken infill gaps, parts sticking up, etc.

Solution: Cura's gyroid infill and turning on connect infill lines option. The advantage of gyroid is that it never, ever, has infill lines that cross each other. For an added bonus, connect infill lines adheres the infill to the outer shell and reduces artifacts showing up on the outside. This significantly improved the quality of my print result.

Also, Ziro's marble filament is pretty nice. I ended up printing at 220C, some stringing issues but I haven't been able to resolve stringing with any filament so far using such a huge nozzle.

[Anonymous No.1625761]

>>1625755
why top-mount the X(Y?) gantry rail when you're already side-mounting the other axis? It would simplify the X carriage. Also, it might be more rigid if you just bolted the extrusion directly to the Y rails, instead of attaching it to a printed part attached to the rail.

[Anonymous No.1625769]

>>1625722
thx so far, testing...

[Anonymous No.1625775]

>>1625769

[Anonymous No.1625780]

OP here
>>1625691
>I've never even heard of Qidi when I compiled the copypasta half a year ago, and it's never been mentioned in the /3DPG/ threads since.
It's been discussed in the past 3 or 4 threads.
5 people I know have had good experiences with theirs, and it makes a good entry-level printer. I've had a way better experience with it than I ever did the MP Select Minis, and I went through 4 of those.

[Anonymous No.1625786]

>>1625747
Ebay just has 24 month financing with 0% interest right now

[Anonymous No.1625790]

>>1625775
It looks a bit rough and dirty, but the surface is actually quite nice, especially the first glass layer.
Guess it is partly to the transparency/translucency of petg.

[Anonymous No.1625811]

>>1625761
Unfortunately I did not do the design on this printer. This is a kit build of the FT-6 with some modifications. The printed parts that you see holding the Y gantry rail are a solid improvement over the default carrier. Likewise with the extruder mount. With some modifications, I think the proposal of top-mounting the X rails instead of side mounting them would be a superior option, but that would require some considerable modifications to the design which I honestly don't think would be beneficial enough to warrant carrying out. There are multiple mechanical issues with the printer that cause one to ask 'why', but overall the printer is functional and as I'm getting settings dialed in, is starting to produce good quality parts.

[Anonymous No.1625816]

>>1625790
my petg never came out that translucent, what brand is that?

[Anonymous No.1625823]

>>1625694
>world record for a print that wasn't just trying for maximum print time
37.7m, and falls under
>something that someone actually wanted to make
but not
>ordinary 3d printer
since it was made on a completely custom printer, so that kind of disqualifies it.

[Anonymous No.1625824]

>>1625816
Stronghero3D Dark Grey
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07K31W83T

[Anonymous No.1625946]

First time using one of the large scale pots printed on the FT-6. Seeing this gives me hope I didn't just waste $1k

[Anonymous No.1625949]

>>1625946
It's only $700? I kind of want to buy that over the CR10 S5, but I want the 500x500 X/Y space

[Anonymous No.1625952]

>>1625949
It depends on what you get and what upgrades you want to put on it or what parts you want to change. I'm just around 1k now.

$816.71 FT-6 kit--Dual extruder, octoprint with touchscreen
$9.89 Washers set M2-M10
$9.99 Cable tiedowns
$8.99 Set of 0.2-1.0mm nozzles
$6.99 Right-angle HDMI adapter
$7.99 Pneumatic fittings
$36.99 TMC2208 x5
$12.51 Cable sheathing
$39.90 BLTouch probe
$19.98 5015 blower fans
$24.00 Mirror from local glass shop
$19.95 Noctua 5V 80mm fan
$13.06 8mm OD 6mm ID rod
$6.39 M4x75 screws
$4.99 Thrust bearings
$14.38 Leveling nuts + springs
$3.99 M3x0.5 10mm screws
$6.99 PTFE bowden tubing

[Anonymous No.1625956]

>>1625949
And a note about build size;
I was going to go for the CR10 S5, but for my core use, I figured the oblong shape would be better suited in case I get asked to produce a really large pot. Because pots are not typically square, the rectangular build surface was perfect for me.

If I simply wanted a larger printer than what I already had, I'd be after the CR10 or the Chiron. Unless you have a need that exceeds the 500mm build space, you will be better served by one of those since the communities around them are much better in terms of available improvements/community-sourced troubleshooting. Plus, the FT-6 was a proper bitch to put together.

[Anonymous No.1625963]

>>1625956
I mean you could have just designed models you could easily bolt, snap, or dove tail together to be printed on any 200mm i3 though too

[Anonymous No.1625969]

>>1625963
I had done that once with my maker select, but I decided against it after seeing the result for 2 reasons.

The first is functional to its intended use: I would rather spend the money and produce solid one-piece pots than risk having the pots fail while transporting a tree. In this case, the important part is the tree itself--If I were to sell these, which is the end goal, I do not want to risk an assembly joint breaking and causing a tree to fall/become damaged. Bonsai take years and years of love and care, and to risk putting them in a mechanically risky container is not worth it. Additionally, I don't want them to be unnecessarily bulky or show seams because even though they're just training pots, people will still have to live with them for 1-3 years and it'd be nicer to have them look aesthetically pleasing.

The second is in regards to practicality of a business: I want to be able to hit print and have a customer's order come out the other end without much hassle.

[Anonymous No.1625971]

>>1625513
>also bought pic related, apparently i need it?
If you can solder you can attach the bltouch to the unused pin 29 in the middle of the board and leave the LCD connector alone and keep the buzzer too.

[Anonymous No.1625973]

>>1625971
buzzer is bad and gay

[Anonymous No.1625976]

>>1625973
It's much quieter with the new firmware - which you'll be flashing anyway to use a bltouch, and its nice to know when its actually saved eeprom settings instead fucking up and just backing out of the menu without saving like the shitty lcd control knob likes to do.

[Anonymous No.1626129]

>>1625946
Any tips on growing bonsais? I've been wanting to get into it for a while but know it takes quite a bit of effort.

[Anonymous No.1626138]

>>1626129
I started at one point on a guide for >>>/an/ but gave up as I realized I did not want to be responsible for someone going out and misinterpreting what I was posting and killing trees. I'll give you the hyper abridged version though.
1. Research, read, and take classes or lessons when and where you can. The internet made available a variety of forms of lessons and written literature for your consumption. They aren't that difficult to find once you start looking.
2. Do not spend a whole lot on trees initially. Use nursery stock to start with, you probably will kill a few trees in the first few years.
3. You don't need many tools to start, just the basics.
4. Once you get comfortable with the concepts of repotting+soil composition, pruning, wiring, and fertilizing, expand out to more developed trees as you can only learn so much from nursery stock. If you don't know how to work on a developed tree, all of your developing nursery stock will not advance past development stage.
In the interest of staying on topic, I won't go into more detail than that.

I'm working on new benches right now, brackets

[Anonymous No.1626141]

>>1625946
A pot costs like 12 bucks from the plant store. I'd hope you at least use a more creative design than that.

[Anonymous No.1626160]

What's the "next best" printer in the ~$500 range? I see the CR-10 up in the OP but it looks pretty much identical to the Ender 3 except bigger. Is there really nothing between that and the prusa that's better than "generic printer but with large print size" (or outdated clones of early printers)? I don't need something that's that massive but the Ender 3 looks a bit barebones and the Prusa is a bit much for me right now.

[Anonymous No.1626162]

>>1626160
What do you mean?

Most printers are just i3 clones with 200mm build areas and similar quality.

Just buy like the Anycubic 4max or something it at least has an enclosure.

[Anonymous No.1626167]

>>1626162
What I vaguely mean is, there seems to be a pretty significant jump in quality between the Ender 3 and "official" Prusa (like the single-unit design, extruder, design, filament sensor, magnetic bed, autoleveling, powerout-saving, and some other things) without any real options in the middle and I'm not sure if I'm just not finding any or if there flat-out aren't.

[Anonymous No.1626168]

How do you cut a model and hollow it out in FreeCad? I want to take this skull model and carve out the space to put a ESP32 inside and some leds in the eyes, but I don't know anything about CAD.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:518109

[Anonymous No.1626169]

>>1626167
The Prusa really isn't that much better as far as final print quality, but the ender 3 kind of sucks IMO, at least compared to the anycubic stuff some lists.

Exactly what do you want in an i3 clone?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XD7IZYcdw58

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYafwrpZ-cs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZn-5leg_q0

[Anonymous No.1626170]

>>1626168
Just try importing it into tinkerCAD which works fine for most things really.

[Anonymous No.1626171]

>>1626169
>Exactly what do you want in an i3 clone
To not have to fuck around with it endlessly and also prevent my place from burning down. I've heard a lot of mixed feelings about the Ender 3, ranging from "it works perfectly the first time" to "I've been fixing it for months and it still doesn't print right" and I don't know who to trust, seeing as this is the internet and all. An autoleveling bed would be nice as well. Can't think of anything else at the moment.

[Anonymous No.1626172]

>>1626170
I was hopping to use something else, my computer is kinda slow and struggles with web cad. But I guess I'd try with that, seems intuitive enough.

Is there any CAD program that is like tinkercad but can be downloaded?

[Anonymous No.1626174]

>>1626171
Forgot to mention, having an "optional" upgrade path which is the cost of the printer if not more also sucks and I'm trying to figure out if there's any reason to upgrade a cheaper printer vs. getting a more expensive one right off the bat

[Anonymous No.1626176]

>>1626171
You really shouldn't have to level your bed that often.

The Anycubic i3 Mega and 4Max are easily the way to go IMO, they work great, my i3 mega has been printing fine for ever. Can find them cheaper on ebay probably and they'll be fine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6Y2mdpuYIU

>>1626172
IronCAD maybe i have it downloaded but haven't tried it out, but none of them are free, I need to hit the lottery and turn blender into a TinkerCAD like program but with more support.

[Anonymous No.1626177]

>>1626171
I bought an ender 3 a week ago and it has been a pleasure. I had some problems but mostly because of bed leveling, you have to understand that the bed might have a dip in the middle, and you'll have to adjust all knobs at once leveling the middle. Leveling with a heated bed makes the dip much less of an issue.

[Anonymous No.1626178]

>>1626176
Got it. Any opinion of the Monoprice printers, by chance? They look a little nicer but cost about the same, but I don't really see them mentioned for some reason.

>>1626177
Good to know.

[Anonymous No.1626179]

>>1626178
The MP Select mini V2 is only neat because they sell open box models for $99 otherwise they're fine, would stick to the anycubic 4max in general

[Anonymous No.1626186]

>>1626179

That's tempting to just get one to knock out little parts while the big ones are running long jobs.

[Anonymous No.1626188]

>>1626178

I have a Maker Select+, and it's capable of nice prints, but it needs a few mods and babysitting to get there.

Also, PETG is "iffy" on it. If you can get good adhesion with lower temps, you're fine, but the hot end fouls up and skips extruder steps any higher than 235C on mine.

[Anonymous No.1626236]

>>1625780
>It's been discussed in the past 3 or 4 threads.
>5 people I know have had good experiences with theirs
That's certainly not enough to warrant recommendation ITT. How is their QC? How's the customer service? Have any of the big boys done in-depth reviews pointing out possible weaknesses? How does it stack up against other printers in the 350 USD range, and how does it compare to the Ender in terms of print quality? So many unanswered and undiscussed questions here before you even put it in the OP without properly updating it. First you create discussion, then summarise it, try and get consensus, ignore the diehard fanboys, then you update the OP, and only then do you recommend a new printer to the world - who are going to spend their hard earned cash on a recommendation you made!
t. original OP who made the entire copypasta

[Anonymous No.1626238]

>>1626160
>Is there really nothing between that and the prusa that's better than "generic printer but with large print size" (or outdated clones of early printers)?
Some other companies have been giving the Ender archetype some upgrades besides just making it bigger. I would recommend my Chiron over the CR-10, but quality has been hit or miss in early production so YMMV.

>like the single-unit design, extruder, design, filament sensor, magnetic bed, autoleveling, powerout-saving, and some other things
If you want an Ender style printer there are upgrades available from certain manufacturers. My Chiron is basically an Ender with eight times the build volume, dual geared extruder, filament sensor, fancy buildplate, autoleveling, powerout-saving, dual Z-axis and a two piece design that gets you printing within an hour of opening the box. Similar upgrades packages can be had for less on other chinkshit printers without plopping down the cash for a 400^3mm printer - although the Chiron is a whole boatload of build volume for the money.

>>1626171
>To not have to fuck around with it endlessly and also prevent my place from burning down.
3D-printers require constant tweaking if you're chasing perfection, that's just life. If you don't want to burn your house down, flash proper Marlin firmware on your printer and use thermal runaway protection.

>>1626174
Getting a model with all the options you want is worth it over investing your time to upgrade a cheaper printer. Industrious little fellows in China can install upgrades for you at a fraction of the price, just shop around on Aliexpress untill you find the brand you want.

[Anonymous No.1626261]

>>1626171
Get the CR-20

[Anonymous No.1626263]

>>1625824
try Formfutura hdglass

[Anonymous No.1626271]

>>1626263
>90% optical light transmittance with only 1% of haze
sounds quite good, will try it

[Anonymous No.1626316]

how about it?
Feeds on all kinds of shredded plastic or plastic beads, recycle your prints, buy cheap plastic beads, whatever you want.
The way it works is that the piston retracts, the chamber is filled with plastic, then the chamber heats up and the piston compresses the molten plastic into a stick, now the printing can start, the chamber is unheated to avoid plastic degradation, the nozzle at the end of a chamber is heated, when the chamber is nearing empty during a print the print head just retracts from the piece being printed, the piston pulls back, the chamber is filled with plastic and the process starts again.

[Anonymous No.1626318]

>>1626316
Seems a lot harder to make work well than just making your own filament extruder and feed it to a normal hotend.

[Anonymous No.1626329]

>>1626316
>piston
Why not use a screw at that point, then you wont be limited by piston size.

I mean it would be fine except it's pretty heavy and most 3d printers are made out of toothpicks because the hotend doesnt weigh anything

[Anonymous No.1626339]

>>1626316
uhh, no.
just use a screw extruder:
http://ptfe-machinery.com/polymer-screw-extrusion/

[Anonymous No.1626344]

>>1626339
people also diy those by using a common auger bit as the screw

[Anonymous No.1626357]

>>1626316
Would not be a continuous flow because of piston. Tapered feed screw would be mo appropriate.

[Anonymous No.1626378]

>>1626160
build your own

[Anonymous No.1626386]

>>1625312
accurate

[Anonymous No.1626388]

>>1626329
>>1626339
>>1626344
>>1626357
>implying you'd get precious enough feed characteristics with a screw
what i'm suggesting is basically the same as using inch thick filament, you can achieve precise flow

[Anonymous No.1626390]

>>1626388
>he thinks he'll get precise flow out of feeding pellets and the air they trap between them

[Anonymous No.1626403]

>>1626390
good point
it would have to be so that the piston is retracted when the pellets are molten into that one inch filament in the tube, to counter the molten metal flowing out of the nozzle, the nozzle would remain unheated and only heat up when the plastic is ready. This way the air can escape from between the pellets and the piston can start pushing the plastic through the nozzle

[Anonymous No.1626404]

>>1626403
You would need to vacuum degas the molten plastic to get rid of all air bubbles.

[Anonymous No.1626413]

>>1626404
really? wouldn't they just float to the surface?
anyway, how do screws deal with air then?

[Anonymous No.1626415]

>>1626413
>wouldn't they just float to the surface?
not with material this viscous
>anyway, how do screws deal with air then?
i don't know, but probably that "breaker plate" in the diagram if I had to guess.

[Anonymous No.1626426]

>>1626415
>>1626413
Screw extruders have vents as well as long (over 20:1 ratios) lengths to gradually heat and mix over time.

[Anonymous No.1626444]

Is there anything more satisfying than watching an (almost) perfect first layer stick down on a 20+ hour print?

[Anonymous No.1626449]

Can anyone suggest a filament similar to the color of Prusament Orange? I am just now printing out the Sunlu orange filament I bought, but its creamsicle color not orange.

[Anonymous No.1626456]

>>1626449
I can recommend *against* Hatchbox orange, as it's paler than Prusament Orange, if that helps narrow it down.

[Anonymous No.1626480]

>>1626444
What's with the metal clips?

Can always just use a glue stick

[Anonymous No.1626482]

>>1626480
glue stick to hold on the glass bed?

[Anonymous No.1626486]

>>1626482
Right, it ensure that it stays in place pretty much

[Anonymous No.1626487]

>>1626444
Also what nozzle size are you using? unless you need high details use a .6 or .8 nozzle.

[Anonymous No.1626488]

>>1626486
glue sticks are for print adhesion, dummy. The buildplate itself should be rigidly affixed.

[Anonymous No.1626489]

>>1626129
Abridged version from a guy who's made a few succulent bonsais, what you do is plant them and every now and then cut branches off. Cutting off one branch will make the plant grow two new branches from the next lowest "knot" (usually visible as rings or nodules in the bark).

[Anonymous No.1626491]

>>1626488
Obviously you wouldn't use a glue stick to attach the bed to the metal.

[Anonymous No.1626499]

>>1626487
it's a .4mm
I do need a little more detail with the set of prints because they are going to be painted for D&D

[Anonymous No.1626501]

>>1626491
then why >>1626480 ? the metal clips hold the buildplate to the heatbed.

[Anonymous No.1626503]

>>1626499
.6 would be good then, you don't lose much detail, can still make the layer height .25 or something.

>>1626501
I assume he had some issue with the buildplate coming off?

Otherwise he should have gotten some kind of good adhesive or epoxy and clamped down the pieces with some wood or something between the glass and clamps to properly attach it.

[Anonymous No.1626505]

>>1626503
>>1626501
>>1626499
nvm the epoxy, you'd want to use some kind of thermal adhesive so the heat transfer well to the bed

[Anonymous No.1626506]

Hey, I was wondering if you guys had any experince with this. I have a Prusa i3 mk3, and I recently did the Nylock leveling mod to help out with a problem, but it doesn't seem to have helped.

I have what looks like under and overextrustion on my first layer, if thats possible. If I lower my Live Z by .005, I get wrinkles in the first layer that look like over extrusion. But if I leave it, I get holes in other areas of the first layer that look like under extrusion.

Could someone tell me if I'm correct in this line of thought, and if theres a way to fix this? I think the steel sheet I'm printing on might just be too uneven in a way that the nylock mod can't fix...

Prusa i3 mk3
Hatchbox Black PLA
Bed: 65 C Hotend: 215C
Unsure about print speed, can check when I get home

[Anonymous No.1626507]

>>1626503
>Otherwise he should have gotten some kind of good adhesive or epoxy and clamped down the pieces with some wood or something between the glass and clamps to properly attach it.

[Anonymous No.1626509]

>>1626506
You have an uneven bed, Prusas are well known to always have this issue. Buy a mirror.

[Anonymous No.1626510]

>>1626506
second photo, this one showing the underextrusion.

[Anonymous No.1626511]

>>1626506
uneven bed. If your bed is properly leveled, it's probably just that your bed is warped. Get a glass plate (glass is very very flat) and put your print surface (PEI) on that.

[Anonymous No.1626514]

>>1626506
>>1626510
ALL Prusas come with a warped bed, that DEPENDS on the sensor to correct that warped bed, without the sensor, the machine wouldn't work.

>the print quality degrades with each of those issues and the printers require attention and fiddling to address each issue.
Prusa fanboys are fucking disgusting like this.

Let's pretend, that Prusas, all of them, out of the box, have this disgusting problem:

https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/issues/602

That Prusa doesn't acknowledge that exists, and shuts down, and Prusa fanboys defend that shit like it never happened.

The Prusa is a piece of trash, that is not worth even $100.

[Anonymous No.1626515]

>>1626480
>>1626501
>>1626503
It's a plain stock straight out of the box Anycubic i3 Mega-S, they use a proprietary glass bed called "ultrabase", the clips are from the factory because easily taking it off and putting it on is one of the main features
>Otherwise he should have gotten some kind of good adhesive or epoxy and clamped down the pieces with some wood or something between the glass and clamps to properly attach it.
what?

[Anonymous No.1626516]

>>1626514
Hey man, not claiming to be a fan boy but you're probably talking about others. I'm not happy about it, but I'm new to this stuff and a friend recommended it.

>>1626509
>>1626511
I'll definitely look into that, made my day a lot better knowing there's a possible fix. Thanks.

[Anonymous No.1626518]

>>1625048
All right niggers, I'm back. Time to go to prison.
Post opinions.

[Anonymous No.1626520]

>>1626518
what is it

[Anonymous No.1626521]

>>1626520
OTF "kinfe"

[Anonymous No.1626524]

>>1626515
I have an i3 mega and it never needed clips or anything.

[Anonymous No.1626525]

>>1626524
the buildplate isn't supposed to be glued to the heatbed retard

[Anonymous No.1626528]

>>1626525
I assume you mean on that model? What printer is it?

Most printers have it glued because it eliminates any air gap between the heat generating components and the glass bed itself. At least they should anyways.

[Anonymous No.1626530]

>>1626528
>Most printers have it glued because it eliminates any air gap between the heat generating components and the glass bed itself. At least they should anyways.
no they don't and you're retarded. nobody does this, because if the buildplate needs to be replaced you need to go to work on the heatbed too. literally everybody secures the plate to the heatbed with clamps. what you may be thinking of is fixing a build material such as PEI or Buildtak to a glass plate, often done with 3M 468MP thermal adhesive, and the plate is then clamped to the heatbed.

[Anonymous No.1626531]

>>1626528
usually glass is held in by clips so then you can remove it and place a different glass plate in when it's done printing

[Anonymous No.1626532]

>>1626531
>>1626530
I mean I guess I see a lot of printers with clips, but I thought they had simply replaced the bed with a new material.

I mean my i3 mega's ultrabase is glued anyways, never had to use clips on it. same for the MP select mini?

[Anonymous No.1626537]

>>1626390
>trapped air
hmm, I guess (just guess) that the air will be pressed out through the gap between the screw and the tube?
how do commercial systems handle this problem?
maybe just putting the whole system into a "light vacuum enclosure"?

[Anonymous No.1626542]

>>1626537
>>1626426
They also sometimes have vacuum on the vents as well

[Anonymous No.1626598]

[Anonymous No.1626609]

>>1626598
nice

[Anonymous No.1626610]

>>1626598
>dicking with the stepper connections while it's powered
Seriously, this is like #1 of 'things not to do to your printer'

[Anonymous No.1626614]

>>1626598
Why isn't there something to insulate the electronics from the metal case?

[Anonymous No.1626618]

>>1626614
it's grounded.

[Anonymous No.1626620]

>>1626610
>prusa problems
"It's junk not worth the money"
>creality problems
"You're dumb or need a mod"

every time

[Anonymous No.1626622]

>>1626620
prusa problems are structural. messing with stepper connections while the printer is running is a known no-no for all printers, same thing would likely happen on a prusa or an ultimaker.

[Anonymous No.1626633]

>>1626620
I didn't mention the Prusa or Creality there, so the only place you could be possibly pulling those words from is your ass. It doesn't matter what printer you pull it from (or if it's from a printer AT ALL), un/plugging steppers while they're powered has a high likelyhood of fucking the driver (and possibly them) up.

[Anonymous No.1626636]

So I'm just getting started with 3DP -- like literally have my intro class on modeling and such this Friday. Been a big fan and fascinated for years watching the technology develop. If anyone has any suggestions from experience that I likely won't get as I start, suggestions or pointers would be appreciated. Otherwise I plan on lurking and asking the occasional question from now on. :D

[Anonymous No.1626642]

what of fuck is going on to my purge tower? the sliced preview looks normal (square border around rectangular cells) and it just keeps piling it up like this. The diagonal trace gets run over like 3-4 times which is why it looks so blobby

[Anonymous No.1626646]

>>1626636
It's always the same rise-starters people have to go through. Youtube is still the mightiest modern learning tool available to you. Even just watching videos such as 'X number of things I wish I'd known when I began 3D printing' or 'The Basics of 3D printing,' they simply cannot be overappreciated.
I'm also just getting started, but this is not the first new tech-hobby I've dipped my nuts in. Honestly, don't try to be too much of a wizard at first. Slow down, print some easy shit, take it easy. You'll eventually reach a point where you do need to up your game if you want to progress further. Only then should you attempt to tackle the more arcane side of 3D printing.

[Anonymous No.1626649]

>>1626642
maybe it's not retracting on that diagonal which is likely a travel move? makes sense if it's just trying to purge.

[Anonymous No.1626651]

>>1626649
I'd believe that if it didn't move back and forth on that diagonal several times and if it had the rectangle around it. Pic related is what it's supposed to look like, and the printer doesn't even do the motions or any extrusion along the (missing) outer perimeter, it just does the diagonal and zig-zags and goes back to print

[Anonymous No.1626654]

>>1626651
pic actually related this time

[Anonymous No.1626667]

>>1625305
i can't keep a milling machine in my 5th floor walkup

[Anonymous No.1626683]

>>1626236
>Have any of the big boys done in-depth reviews pointing out possible weaknesses?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-rIc3XIYUg

[Anonymous No.1626713]

>>1626646
Thank you, kinda what I was expecting, but I've found it always helps to ask the ones in the know just in case. :)

[Anonymous No.1626802]

>>1626518
more detailed pic of the mechanism?

[Anonymous No.1626836]

>>1626636
Really depends on the printer, but if you have some chinkshit printer, flash a new firmware on it and make sure thermal runaway protection is enabled, make sure all electrical connections are secure (before you power it up obviously), always calibrate your extruder. When levelling the bed, use a piece of paper between the nozzle and bed, you want to raise the bed until the nozzle starts the pull on the paper; do this in several circuits (i.e. multiple passes around the bed). Adjusting one corner will throw out another, so you keep levelling until you no longer need to make adjustments.

[Anonymous No.1626866]

>>1626532
gl changing the build surface once it wears out. im betting youll just buy a whole new bed set.

[Anonymous No.1626869]

>>1626598
>>1626610
>>1626620
rule #1 of electronics: power everything down before you connect/ disconnect/ mess with connectors.

[Anonymous No.1626992]

designing a DnD life counter that has dials that "click" into position.

anyone ever done a similar project?
if you told me 3 months ago i would care about 0.07mm tolerances on my printer i would have laughed

[Anonymous No.1627033]

[Anonymous No.1627127]

>>1626992
>0.07mm tolerances on my printer
good luck lol.

[Anonymous No.1627135]

>>1625305
>why is /3dpg/ broke
I wouldn't want these threads to turn into a money masturbation experience anyways.
There are a few anons that manage printer farms (myself included) or university printing labs. There's also University Race Car anon who gets to make stuff with a ci BAAM.

[Anonymous No.1627141]

>>1627135
Not all of us are broke. Some of us just try to have a hobby without breaking the bank. I love pushing my sub $200 i3 clone to see how good of details I can get

[Anonymous No.1627142]

>>1627135
>There's also University Race Car anon who gets to make stuff with a ci BAAM.
Univerity Race Car Anon here, we don't have a BAAM, there's only on of them and we found a local pellet printer to print the racecar on. Plans change. Nice thing about this printer is that it's within 200KM instead of on the other side of the Atlantic, and we can use fancy materials that are still under NDA.

That said, I have gotten my dirty gubbins on at least 100K EUR worth of 3D-printers so far, and that's including the 10 UM2's I manage at our Uni.

[Anonymous No.1627262]

>22hrs 49mins
Hopefully I'll use it more than once

[Anonymous No.1627267]

>>1627262
cute

[Anonymous No.1627274]

>>1627262
Very pretty. Is it a water feature?

[Anonymous No.1627300]

>>1627267
Thank
>>1627274
It is

[Anonymous No.1627320]

>>1626598

you don't even have to open the panels. even touching those wires while printing from the stepper itself will cause it to glitch out. I have said the wires for the ender 3 sucked balls.

[Anonymous No.1627347]

>>1625048
>Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
What are the pros and cons?

[Anonymous No.1627365]

>>1626992
If you make the 'blades' curved instead of straight you might be able to make it springier. Do you have a specific question or are you just showing progress? Looks nice, though, what filament?

[Anonymous No.1627371]

>>1627347
>Ultimaker
>Pros
Easy to Enclose
Some really interesting third-party upgrades (like remote-drive extrusion)
Good print quality given the stiffness of the X-Y axis setup.
Dual Extrusion
>Cons
Very expensive compared to competitors
Buildplate setup is really outdated
They're trying to move to DRM on their filament spools and warranty service might deny any claims you have or be invalidated by using spools without their DRM.
The 3 is just a slightly fancier 2
Doesn't really have true Auto-leveling, it's more of an aided leveling routine that it asks you do in regular intervals.

>Lulzbot
>Pros
Extremely reliable
Great warranty
Core components can be purchased and obtained quickly through Amazon
Open Source, so if something breaks the STL files and hardware lists needed to produce the part yourself is right on the thumbdrive they include.
Auto-leveling before every print.
Very easy to disconnect and move if needed.
>Cons
Expensive per unit of volume (slightly improved with Lulzbot 2)
Not easy to enclose, and pretty much requires buying a kit.
Auto-leveling is only at the corners and won't detect any deformities in the PEI. It also doesn't work if the nozzle wiper pad fails to clean the nozzle prior to the leveling routine. So you will go through these pads as a consumable so I've started making my own in significant quantities for very little money.
Even with all the changes they have made to their cabling and cable carriers over the years, after around 5,000 print hours they will still eventually break or otherwise wear out one of the cables that connects to the buildplate. This could be either of the Y-axis switches or the bed thermistor itself and fixing it is easy, so long as you don't even bother trying to fish a whole replacement cable through the carrier. The heating element wires however do not.

[Racecar University Anon No.1627469]

>>1627371
>Buildplate setup is really outdated
It just werks (TM)
>They're trying to move to DRM on their filament spools and warranty service might deny any claims you have or be invalidated by using spools without their DRM.
They've already tried this, and abandoned the idea because of the backlash.
>The 3 is just a slightly fancier 2
With dual extrusion, which is the entire point.
>Doesn't really have true Auto-leveling, it's more of an aided leveling routine that it asks you do in regular intervals.
The 5 has proper autoleveling, and even with the wonky bed setup you rarely need to do bedleveling via the wizard on the UM2/3. I only do it when some idiot has misadjusted a printer before me.

Can't complain how they've served us, I know you've got a Lulzbot print farm and it works pretty well given the amount of hours, but our UM2's have been run hard by students and put away wet with very little maintenance. They're pushing 5 years with a least 1500 hours per year per printer without major defects except broken endstops (cable issues), and two broken heaters. Can't ask much more of printers that get abused by students on a daily basis.

[Anonymous No.1627507]

>>1625722
I am using FR4 epoxy plate for PETG
Adhesion is solid as long as the print bed is above 70°C. When it cools down it just plops of by itself. Wouldn't recommend it for pla tho

[Anonymous No.1627539]

>>1627469
Yeah, both brands are worth the money they charge for their product.

Something I can't whole-heartedly exclaim about Makergear who is charging double what they should for a printer that they haven't updated at all feature wise for 4 years.

[Anonymous No.1627548]

>>1625722
>>1627507
ive been using glass without any problems with petg. first layer @65C, later layers @60C. after printing i let the part cool completely (takes only few minutes with a fan if im in a hurry) and the part detaches perfectly itself.

[Anonymous No.1627558]

>>1627548
Adhesion during printing hasn't been the problem for me, it's removing the part that doesn't work without damaging the part or buildplate if I don't use hairspray. Whatever works for you, works though, don't change because I've got different experiences.

[Anonymous No.1627571]

>>1626506
When this popped up on mine, it's because I had a small piece of printing debris squashed between the heatbed and steel sheet at the point of underextrusion.

Anyway, if the bed really is that non-level, turn on the 7x7 Z calibration.

Personally, I'd rather have the convenience of the mk52 bed an a Z cal before every print than a glass bed-- flat but a giant pain in the ass.

[Anonymous No.1627576]

>>1627571
>>1626514
The 602 problem is real, the new extruder with Bondtech doesn't go well with ungeared direct-drive, and the MMU2S makes it worse by adding even more inconsistency to the resistance of the filament path.
If you have the problem (I do) and care about the inconsistency (I do), either crank stepper current or upgrade to the real fix (ttps://www.bondtech.se/en/product/prusa-i3-mk2-5-mk3-extruder-upgrade/)

No denial, wish they'd fix it out of the box, but meh, I'm perfectly happy fixing it this way too.

[Anonymous No.1627671]

This is my first print on my modified prusa printer for ULTEM printing. This print is PC, as I need to reprint all the plastic parts on the prusa so that they don't melt in the enclosure. I printed at 0.2 layer height at 300C and 150C for nozzle and bed and I can already see its too hot. Thoughts on how else to improve?

[Anonymous No.1627690]

>>1627365
both. I did the thing and made the blades point inwards, it turns much smoother now. I use CC3D silk copper

[Anonymous No.1627706]

How complex would it be to add ~10cm length to an Ender3 y axis? I'd like to print keyboard cases without getting a full cr10 (I don't have room) so a 23x33 bed would be enough. Longer belt and Y aluminium extrusion? Is there any kit for this?

[Anonymous No.1627729]

>mfw trying to work out the lengths of my custom delta
Even with visual calculators I'm too dumb for this shit.

[Anonymous No.1627732]

>>1627706
>Complex
Not much
>Expensive
Just get the damn CR-10.

>>1627729
What size are you looking for?

[Anonymous No.1627735]

>>1627671
>printing PEI
for what purpose? As for your question, the bigger the nozzle, the stronger the print. If you're aiming for strength on your printed parts, use a .6 or .8 nozzle.

[Anonymous No.1627739]

>>1627732
I'm kinda doing it backwards since I know the arm length I'd like rather than my print volume.
The long story is I'd like to use duet's smart delta effector + their 360mm magball arms so I'm trying to figure out everything else based on that.

[Anonymous No.1627741]

>>1627732
>>1627739
I think I got it according to this visualizer but at the end of the day it's just an approximation.
http://danalspub.com/DKcalc/?he=440&ve=1000&dr=370&lr=800

[Anonymous No.1627814]

>>1627469
>They've already tried this, and abandoned the idea because of the backlash
People said the same thing about Bethesda and paid mods, and they dropped the idea for about two months before returning to it.

[Anonymous No.1627816]

>>1627741
It's really not an exact science. There are 3 measurements that matter. Rod length, rod angle, and tower radius. Figure those out and then just add offsets due to carriage and effector size. It's just a 30, 60, 90 triangle. At home position its recommended that the rods rest 60 degrees or more from the bed, while never dropping past 20 degrees at furthest extension. 360mm arms would have a delta radius of 180mm at 60 degrees. Just add cairage thickness and the effectors center to ball distance and you have your center to tower radius. Your bed size would be at least 260mm but could be larger if you prefer so long as it fits inside the towers.

Just so your aware, the 60-20 rule is a guideline that you can choose not to follow.

Pic is my own design I'm working on.

[Anonymous No.1627828]

>>1627816
Thanks for the tips my dude.
Interesting design, why have the build plate elevated from the bottom? Easy access to electronics?

[Anonymous No.1627864]

>>1627828
Two reasons.
The first was because I want it to be floor standing with it's own casters. The second was kind of an accidental idea. I snagged a set of Chinese rails a while back but they're only about 600mm long. Knowing I'd buy longer and better rails in the future, I wanted a design that could expand to fit them without a complete rebuild. The blue corner bracket is a universal design for use in all 9 spots. One of its features is that it can slide along the extrusion when the fasteners are loose, allowing me to lower the bed module and put in the longer rails. Then just retigten and it's off to the races again. All the electronics are in the top.

[Anonymous No.1627979]

>printing pic related
>getting ready to sand it down
>thought it would fit head
>still too small
>will just use as decoration

ender 3 build volume is so limited. I would have to split this up into 3 pieces if i wanted it to fit. I want a CR10 S5, you can print anything you want with that.

[Anonymous No.1628009]

My bltouch arrives tomorrow with filament. I hope this shits not a waste of $40, my prints better have perfect layers. I will be using vanilla marlin firmware, I have TH3, any reason to keep it over marlin vanilla?

[Anonymous No.1628012]

I am getting black scorch marks on my longer/larger prints. I am using SUNLU PLA+ so I assume it is impurities of the cheap filament?

[Anonymous No.1628024]

>>1628012

>SUNLA

Yes. They are known for being a budget filament that has impurities, sometimes chunks of stuff in the filament that will gum up your nozzle. Don't know how much you paid but you can pay a few more dollars and get stuff you can always print with.

[Anonymous No.1628140]

Why is a MakerBot doing this on the edge? Tried 100% infill, 4 outer shells and more extrusion, didn't do shit. I'm using the MakerBot Print software because I can't be bothered to set up an S3D profile for the MakerBot Method.

[Anonymous No.1628172]

>>1628140
try designing your model so that the walls are a multiplier of your line width

[Anonymous No.1628193]

How do I find my z offset when using manual mesh bed leveling?
Google is only bringing me to tutorials using an automatic bed leveling system, while I'm probing with my nozzle.

[Anonymous No.1628237]

>>1625305
New tech. Boomer aint going to go for a printer when he can spend 6 hours making a 10 cent part 3d printing because computers.

[Anonymous No.1628238]

>>1625460
2 words anon.

Carbon nanotubes

[Anonymous No.1628240]

>>1625691
Just build a ramp down into a box...

[Anonymous No.1628242]

>>1625946
Very nice. I recently discovered that any tree can be a bonzie. 3 foot round 4 foot tall lemon tree incomming boiiiiiii

[Anonymous No.1628245]

>>1626316
Thats how pipe and all or most at least "extruded" metal works. Honestly its pretty doable home scalw but would cost so much to set up and run it aint worth it

[Anonymous No.1628249]

>>1628238
>Carbon nanotubes
Zoomer Asbestos

[Anonymous No.1628253]

>>1626518
The fuck is going on here?

[Anonymous No.1628254]

>>1628249
Lol.

Every generation has their own problems i guess

[Anonymous No.1628286]

>>1628253
Spring asisted knife. Anon probably lives in commiefornia.

[Anonymous No.1628329]

[Anonymous No.1628351]

>>1628329

[Anonymous No.1628363]

>>1628329

[Anonymous No.1628365]

>>1628329
>Bender 3

[Anonymous No.1628383]

[Anonymous No.1628463]

fucking chinks i said 5mm REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

Any US suppliers that sell 16T 5B pulleys that won't fuck it up and don't charge $11 a piece?

[Anonymous No.1628536]

What are some practical uses for 3dprinting?

What are some ways to make money off of 3d printing?

[Anonymous No.1628540]

>>1628536
>What are some practical uses for 3dprinting?

something that is hard to fabricate from wood or metal and you only need a few.

>What are some ways to make money off of 3d printing?

there are not many. some guys claim to make toys that people buy.

[Anonymous No.1628564]

>>1628536
>What are some practical uses for 3dprinting?
rapid prototyping, fixing things via replacement parts, if you make electronics you can print enclosures and mechanisms for them.

[Anonymous No.1628576]

>>1628463

aren't you supposed to put a bushing in there, dingus?

[Anonymous No.1628578]

>>1628576
It's not an idler. If I put a bushing in it the set screws on the side couldn't lock it to the motor shaft.

[Anonymous No.1628649]

>>1628536
>What are some practical uses for 3dprinting?
The most common use for it at my dayjob is to print dummy versions of machined parts to make sure that the CAD model for the part that will need to be machined will fit and function as intended. Any corrections can be marked on the printed dummy using a sharpy and easily corrected with a band saw, rasp, or file and check for fit again. Once the dummy is confirmed for the intended use the corrections are added to the CAD model. We may or may not print a second dummy for another fit check.
This prevents us from having a machined part have to go back to the machine shop a second time for rework.

We've also used it to make jigs, fixtures, casting molds, cross-section display models, meeting visual aids, and other end-use or proof-of-concept applications where the part wouldn't have been cost-effective to produce in small numbers through any other method.
>>1628540
>some guy claim to make toys that people buy.
Present. Printing is only a third of the material cost of the product, but it's a significant cost and labor savings while also providing flexibility in customization of the product. My print quality isn't going to be great at 300 microns, but if I did reduce total print time I wouldn't be able to offer my product at a price point that is reasonable for the hobby it is intended to be sold in.

Most of my labor hours go into producing the hardware to put them together, and assembly/packaging of the orders.

[Anonymous No.1628650]

>>1628536
>What are some practical uses for 3dprinting?
The most common use for it at my dayjob is to print dummy versions of machined parts to make sure that the CAD model for the part that will need to be machined will fit and function as intended. Any corrections can be marked on the printed dummy using a sharpy and easily corrected with a band saw, rasp, or file and check for fit again. Once the dummy is confirmed for the intended use the corrections are added to the CAD model. We may or may not print a second dummy for another fit check.
This prevents us from having a machined part have to go back to the machine shop a second time for rework.

We've also used it to make jigs, fixtures, casting molds, cross-section display models, meeting visual aids, and other end-use or proof-of-concept applications where the part wouldn't have been cost-effective to produce in small numbers through any other method.
>>1628540
>some guy claim to make toys that people buy.
Present. Printing is only a third of the material cost of the product, but it's a significant cost/labor savings while also providing flexibility in customization of the product. My print quality isn't going to be great at 300 microns, but if I didn't reduce total print time I wouldn't be able to offer my product at a price point that is reasonable for something relevant to Nerf.

Most of my labor hours go into producing the hardware to put them together, and assembly/packaging of the orders.

[Anonymous No.1628780]

>>1628650
>My print quality isn't going to be great at 300 microns
quality isn't just a factor of layer height. If your printer is consistent, you get consistent layers, good extrusion, no blobbing or warping etc, and your prints are dimensionally-accurate, it's going to be pretty good quality, even if it's not the highest vertical resolution. At the end of the day, most normies probably can't tell a good print from a mediocre one if you gave them 5 minutes.

[Anonymous No.1628787]

>>1627371
>They're trying to move to DRM on their filament spools

[Anonymous No.1628808]

[Anonymous No.1628845]

hello,
will pic related be good enough between 12v alimentation and mosfet for bed/hotend ? No risk of melting ?

[Anonymous No.1628846]

>>1628845
pic related

[Anonymous No.1628847]

Is it possible to get prints at Prusa i3 quality for less than $700 (the price of the Prusa kit)? Any chink knockoffs that get close to as good?

[Anonymous No.1628848]

>>1628847
ender 3

[Anonymous No.1628850]

>>1628847
there are plenty of clones that mechanically give Prusa print quality, no question.
The Prusa uses nicer parts, is trustworthy unattended, is built to last and, biggest of all, the software is rock solid. It just works with ~ no effort. That's what you're paying for.

[Anonymous No.1628851]

>>1628847
Fucking Prusas cost $1000 and come with a shitty FDM-printed extruder made of the cheapest PETG there is.

And for that price, comes with a fake Bondtech extruder that doesn't has the 3:1 reduction.

ALL Prusas come with a warped bed, that DEPENDS on the sensor to correct that warped bed, without the sensor, the machine wouldn't work.

Let's pretend, that Prusas, all of them, out of the box, have this disgusting problem:
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/issues/602

That Prusa doesn't acknowledge that exists, and shuts down, and Prusa fanboys defend that shit like it never happened. The Prusa is a piece of trash, that is not worth even $100.

1. It's made of PETG, because it cannot print ABS, like the Ender 3 can.
2. It's made of PETG, so it melts in enclosed build chambers, the Ender 3 is made of metal (like the X carriage plane, that is very important), and ABS parts, which don't melt under 100ºC
3. For cheapness, the Prusa comes with a no-name-brand PSU that doesn't even has a fan to cool it down, so it doesn't work in enclosures, the Ender 3, has no problem with that, the Ender 3 Pro, comes with a Mean Well power supply that is half the volume of the Prusa's, and has a fan.
4. Also, for cheapness and less printing time, they don't put a fan on the motherboard, like the Ender 3 has, that means the printer skips steps like an Anet A8 on enclosed build chambers.

[Anonymous No.1628853]

>>1628851
5. The smooth rods on the Prusa's are of low quality, and it doesn't has quality ball-bearings, like it should, the Ender 3 comes with good quality V-slot frames, again, it costs 1/5 of the price of the Prusa.
6. Fucking zip ties holding the Y rods, how cheap they can go?
7. It comes 100% unassembled, so, they can blame you that you did something wrong.
8. For $1000, it comes with a 8bit board, and the CPU only has 8KB of RAM (the Ender 3, at least has 16KB's), and is also slower (16 MIPS, vs 20MIPS on the Ender), how cheap they can go? Not even a graphical LCD!
9. The Ender 3's frame is sturdier than the cheap Prusa's frame. People have been replacing Prusa's famous frame, since ever: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2808408
10. The Prusa's dont' have an independent Z motor controller, so they can't level the two Z motors, the Ender 3 has a cantilever design that doesn't need this.

Again, this is comparing a $177 printer, with shipping, with one that costs more than 5x more...

If you spend $1000 on a Chinese printer, you'll get way better machine that a crappy Prusa.

For less than $1000, you can get a real machine, like this:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2254103/remixes

That doesn't have f**** bed rocking back and forth.

Sticking with the Ender 3, for less than $1000, you can build an Ender 3 with Bondtech extruder, all metal Micro Swiss, Duet 3D, BL Touch, etc. and it runs circles arround the Prusa, and still costs less than half.

[Anonymous No.1628859]

>>1628808
>uramaki

[Anonymous No.1628861]

>>1628845
>>1628846
P=VI

[Anonymous No.1628864]

>>1628851
And here we have the hater. About half of what he says is sort of true but only in an Alex Jones kinda way.

[Anonymous No.1628865]

>>1628848
>>1628850
>>1628851
>>1628853
So it sounds like the Creality Ender 3 is a better choice? Are there any common upgrades people do to those, or anything like that?
I think you guys just saved me $500, lol

[Anonymous No.1628866]

>>1628851
>1. It's made of PETG, because it cannot print ABS, like the Ender 3 can.
Yes it can. I print ABS on mine. You can't do a good job on either though without a heated enclosure.
>2. It's made of PETG, so it melts in enclosed build chambers
And yet plenty of people run them in heated enclosures. In both cases you need to move the PSU outside.
>3. For cheapness, the Prusa comes with a no-name-brand PSU that doesn't even has a fan to cool it down, so it doesn't work in enclosures, the Ender 3, has no problem with that
The ender 3 PSU is not rated to work in ambient that hot.
>the printer skips steps like an Anet A8 on enclosed build chambers.
Not having that problem, but I suppose others do. You really should move out the electronics out of a heated enclosure regardless the make. None of them are rated for ambient over 40C. The Ender has fans because it *needs* them.

[Anonymous No.1628867]

>>1628865
>Are there any common upgrades people do to those, or anything like that?
Most people end up upgrading half the printer by the time they're done. That's true pretty much regardless what you buy.
>I think you guys just saved me $500, lol
Just wait till you buy filament.

[Anonymous No.1628868]

>>1628853
>the Ender 3 comes with good quality V-slot frames
The Ender 3 is my only printer until I finish building my big boy, and this is simply not true. It's a documented fact that the Ender 3's extrusion is frequently cut to different lengths, meaning you need to shim it to get it square, which is a problem in 2 cases: the Z axis frame going out of square in the X axis when you tighten the top of the frame inhibits correct movement of the V rollers, and the Z axis frame going out of square on the Y axis, which leads to binding of the leadscrew, if that isn't already bent as shipped from the factory, which is another documented problem. Furthermore, v-slot rollers are the worst form of linear motion, even smooth rods are preferable unless the build area is over 300mm, where deflection of the rods comes into play.

>>1628865
Get a 235mm^2 borosilicate glass plate and a sheet of PEI to put on top of it, the stock buildplate material sucks ass. Get a genuine
BLTouch too so you don't have to cancerously level your bed manually. It's a good entry-level printer, just don't expect to be able to print more interesting materials out of the box - you need an all-metal hotend to go over 250C and an enclosure for some materials.

[Anonymous No.1628873]

>>1628865
>Are there any common upgrades people do to those
depends
First thing I got was a borosilicate glass plate + hair spray.
Next things will be TMC2209 motor drivers:
https://www.trinamic.com/fileadmin/assets/Products/ICs_Documents/TMC2209_TMC2226_Datasheet_V102.pdf
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=tmc2209
And then I guess an all metal hotend, for high temp filaments.

[Anonymous No.1628875]

>>1628853
>5. The smooth rods on the Prusa's are of low quality, and it doesn't has quality ball-bearings, like it should
ball bearings generally have more slop and are louder than sleeves. I'm not sure what you're on about, the sleeve bearings are more than sufficient. You're gold plating things that have no effect.
>6. Fucking zip ties holding the Y rods, how cheap they can go?
works perfectly. Don't see why overcomplicated is better.
>7. It comes 100% unassembled, so, they can blame you that you did something wrong.
You can buy it either way. I've built and bought preassembled. Both have worked perfectly.
>8. For $1000, it comes with a 8bit board, and the CPU only has 8KB of RAM (the Ender 3, at least has 16KB's), and is also slower (16 MIPS, vs 20MIPS on the Ender)
The controller is not, in any way, limiting the printer. You don't need a 2080Ti in a 3D printer.
>Not even a graphical LCD!
Oh god, Chinese user interface design.
>9. The Ender 3's frame is sturdier than the cheap Prusa's frame.
It's a printer not a mill. You could cast a frame out of reinforced concrete if you wanted to, it won't improve anything.
>10. The Prusa's dont' have an independent Z motor controller, so they can't level the two Z motors
Uh, yes they do and yes they can. Have you ever actually used a Prusa, or are you just repeating things you read on a forum?

>If you spend $1000 on a Chinese printer, you'll get way better machine that a crappy Prusa.
It will be completely undocumented and unsupported in six months. If anything breaks you *will* be fixing it yourself. Good luck with that as a n00b.

[Anonymous No.1628877]

>>1628875
8bit control boards do actually limit printers, if only slightly - you can't do high speed curves on an 8bit because the CPU can't calculate it fast enough. Granted, you can't do high speeds in general on either the prusa or the ender.

>t's a printer not a mill. You could cast a frame out of reinforced concrete if you wanted to, it won't improve anything.
Frankly not true. A large part of why neither printer can do 150mm/s speeds is because they're not rigid enough and they shake around like a wet dog at those speeds.

[Anonymous No.1628880]

>>1628877
>8bit control boards do actually limit printers, if only slightly - you can't do high speed curves on an 8bit because the CPU can't calculate it fast enough. Granted, you can't do high speeds in general on either the prusa or the ender.
Yes, it could conceptually limit a printer. As you say, it doesn't limit the Prusa (and wouldn't limit an Ender)
>A large part of why neither printer can do 150mm/s speeds is because they're not rigid enough
I agree that they're not rigid enough, but if you make a new frame, then you immediately realize everything else needs tightened up too. You don't get a stiffer printer out of either replacing only the frame.

[Anonymous No.1628884]

>>1628880
In any case, Prusas are not super high end in any way, they're just intelligently balanced and well designed as a whole. The engineering goes where it's needed, and much of the cost is the fact Prusa has actual testing and quality control.

[Anonymous No.1628887]

>>1628861
it's way enough then, thanks

[Anonymous No.1628889]

>>1628853
>7. It comes 100% unassembled
> 8. For $1000

It's $900 assembled, tested, calibrated and squared with testing data packed in the box.
For $750 you put it together yourself and do the calibration manually.

[Anonymous No.1628890]

>>1628884
>The engineering goes where it's needed
And this is actually engineering!
You don't have to deal with high forces on fdm printer.
Well, the mechanical engineering is sound.
The electronics and software is a whole other issue though. A lot of space for improvements.

[Anonymous No.1628891]

>>1628890
>The electronics and software is a whole other issue though. A lot of space for improvements.
The overall toolchain is very solid (reliable), but I'd like to see a few more features in the slicer.

The MMU2S is a vast improvement (hardware and software) over the MMU2, but it's clearly still immature especially on the software side.

[Anonymous No.1628894]

>>1628891
>The MMU2S is a vast improvement (hardware and software) over the MMU2
Indeed.
But I meant the "on/in printer" electronics and software/firmware:
https://reprap.org/wiki/EinsyRambo

[Anonymous No.1628895]

>>1628894
>https://reprap.org/wiki/EinsyRambo
Anything specific you want to see? I've been working in the firmware, but only on MMU2 specific stuff. I suppose I've overall been satisfied with the balanced whole, though I have some mixed feelings about the new extruder.

[Anonymous No.1628897]

>>1628851
>>1628853
but the prusa is reliable, you can let it print for 2 days in a row without fire issue

[Anonymous No.1628898]

>>1628848
>bowden
>as good as a prusa
lmao stay delusional ender fag

[Anonymous No.1628899]

>>1628897
Yeah, I don't even think twice about leaving 40 hour prints run unattended.

[Anonymous No.1628900]

>>1628851
>>1628853
is this that copy pasta?
there are so many incorrect and shilly statements here that it ain't even funny

[Anonymous No.1628901]

>>1628895
>Anything specific you want to see?
Actually yes!
>>1628895
>I've been working in the firmware, but only on MMU2 specific stuff.
So no upstream Marlin stuff?
Well, I am quite interested in TMC2209 support. Re-Implementing all their features in software + circuit + pcb and scematic would be a mess.
I have no Prusa, but plan to use my Ender 3 to build a real RepRap fdm/cnc-mill/multihead hybrid.
I already got some chinese mechanical stuff, but it is currently hard to get raw tmc2209 ic's.
maybe I should just call Trinamic and beg for samples.

[Anonymous No.1628902]

>>1628865
>he fell for the chink shill

[Anonymous No.1628905]

>>1628902
>angry Josef
you already have collected enough goygold

[Anonymous No.1628908]

>>1628901
>So no upstream Marlin stuff?
Naw, sorry. I'm bughunting in the MMU2 featureset mostly.

[Anonymous No.1628909]

>>1628895
>>1628901
good summary on the latest tmc:
https://www.electronicsweekly.com/blogs/engineer-in-wonderland/tmc2209-number-going-hear-3d-printing-2019-06/

[Anonymous No.1628910]

>>1628898
>not buying a remote drive extruder and still having $500 left over
stay mad prusatard

[Anonymous No.1628912]

>>1628909
Oh, I see. That does sound nice.

[Anonymous No.1628914]

>>1628909
dang I just got my 2208s

[Anonymous No.1628915]

>3dpg is arguing about poland vs. china
>3dpg can't do it's own reprap

[Anonymous No.1628918]

>>1628915
>poland

[Anonymous No.1628925]

>>1628918
czeched xDD

[Anonymous No.1628927]

>>1628915
Czech 'em!

[Anonymous No.1628951]

>>1628193
Can anybody answer this?

[Anonymous No.1628956]

>>1628193
>manual mesh bed leveling
>>1628951
explain what do you mean by "manual mesh bed leveling"
I just level all four corners and the printer is good to go

[Anonymous No.1628976]

>>1628890
>A lot of space for improvements.
That's every printer in existence. You design these kinds of things to a price, or you won't make any money selling them.

[Anonymous No.1628979]

>>1628193
>How do I find my z offset
https://www.reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M851:_Set_Z-Probe_Offset

It will report the current value if no value is specified after the command. If you specify a new value and you want the machine to keep it after it's turned off you save it to EEPROM with command M500.

I've had to adjust mine manually on a few printers.

[Anonymous No.1628982]

>>1628976
>That's every printer in existence. You design these kinds of things to a price, or you won't make any money selling them.
true
you also have to limit durability
no one makes money from selling high volume products, it is all about service and spare parts
but we are /diy/ after all, so fuck commercial companies

yes, okay. we still have to buy more or less "raw" materials
one just can't mine his own ore, mix his polymers and grow his own wafers

[Anonymous No.1628989]

>>1628982
>grow his own wafers
read that as 'waifus' first time

[Anonymous No.1628991]

>>1628956
>Manual mesh bed leveling
It's a Marlin option; you're lowering the nozzle to the bed's level manually and inputting the position as a point instead of having a sensor do it for you.

[Anonymous No.1628992]

>>1628989
>grow your own waifus
goddammit
genetic engineering general?

[Anonymous No.1629001]

finally, my china shipment arrived
fuck customs, I even got spare balls

[Anonymous No.1629010]

>>1628956
Yeah that's what I've been doing too, but I hear manual mesh bed leveling is better.

You probe at a bunch of different positions using the nozzle, then it creates a mesh which it applies to the model during printing.

>>1628979
Ah, thank you.
I should've been more clear in my question.
Right now my Z offset is at 0, but only because I'm not sure what I should do to find the value it should be.

http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html
Following this, in my bed leveling menu, I have an option to change the z offset.
My prints never stick to the bed properly when I use manual mesh bed leveling, so I'm wondering if it's something to do with that setting, as they always stick when I level using the bed knobs

[Anonymous No.1629042]

>>1628898
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k83M5H796U8

[Anonymous No.1629078]

So I've got a problem. Ender 3, 2nd release (Non-printed power supply holder, original style belt tensioners, stuck on build sticker).
Printing individual things tends to be fine, but as soon as I fill my plate up with objects at say, halfway from the center, I end up with collisions, generally toward the back half of the plate, and usually several layers up. I've used the normal corner leveling, changed the firmware and enabled and ran manual mesh bed leveling; both options have given me just fine looking first layers.
Aside from going to a glass build plate (I'm very happy with the adhesion I get on the default surface) or adding some z-hop (which has given me really ugly prints), what can I do? Should I attempt to adjust the z-switch and re-level the bed springs to try get a flatter, more consistent bed?

[Anonymous No.1629079]

How do y'all feel about the anycubic predator?
Seems a good deal for such a beefy boi but I've been burnt by anycubic in the past.
The flying extruder seems really dumb too.

[Anonymous No.1629104]

>>1629079
>anycubic

[Anonymous No.1629114]

>>1629010
>My prints never stick to the bed properly when I use manual mesh bed leveling, so I'm wondering if it's something to do with that setting, as they always stick when I level using the bed knobs
Do the mesh leveling with a piece of card stock on the buildplate.

[Anonymous No.1629125]

>>1629079
>anycubic predator
Damn, I could have tried that instead of a CR10 S5, did it just come out or something? Never used a delta printer though, seem fine?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7OymY4lVRo

[Anonymous No.1629127]

>>1629079
>>1629125
Wait it's still a smaller print volume than the CR10 S5, nvm

[Anonymous No.1629160]

Getting nice prints out of AmazonBasics PETG pretty easily on my CR-10s

I'm working on printing all of this
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-rust-game-gun-17484

[Anonymous No.1629162]

>>1629160

[Anonymous No.1629216]

>>1629160
grip is gonna snap. print it laying down next time.

[Anonymous No.1629257]

>>1628851
>>1628853
>all Prusas come with a warped bed
I don't even know what to say to this, none of the 5 I've dealt with have warped beds and those are some astronomically unlikely odds if what you're saying is true (which, it's not)

>1. It's made of PETG, because it cannot print ABS, like the Ender 3 can.
ABS prints just fine. I've even printed PEKK on my Prusa with standard parts, what the fuck are you talking about?

>2. It's made of PETG, so it melts in enclosed build chambers
Strike two, see above

>3. I'm just going to stop copy pasting this bullshit
PSU works fine enclosed even with 2 printers printing ABS simultaneously in the same enclosure
>4.
How does "no fan" mean "less printing time"? See above re: enclosure. I also have never had a skipped step on any model of Prusa I've used.

>5.
No comment, I don't know enough about bearings

>6.
It's worked well enough to sell several product lines for the last almost decade and continues to work well enough

>7. and 8.
You are 100% a retard if you try to claim the Prusa costs $1000 AND comes unassembled. Also, how fast do you need a fucking 3D printer's brains to be? Of what benefit is a full-colour screen other than dickwaving about how it's "better"?

>9.
You'll find people replacing (x part) on (y object) for no reason other than "I think it works better" without backing it up

>10.
>don't have an independent motor controller
Why would you need to after you do it by hand for the first time anyway, even if true?


All in all I'm seeing a lot of bullshit being spouted here, some of which is contradictory, and most of which is just pants-on-head retarded.

[Anonymous No.1629263]

>>1629216
That why I used PETG instead of PLA. Also it's got 5 shells.

[Anonymous No.1629341]

just about to give up on this bltouch v3. I understand marlin 1.2.0 works with it but every god damn fucking instruction i have seen says to remove the // from "//#define BLTOUCH_V3." to "#define BLTOUCH_V3.", but there is no line with BLTOUCH_V3 anywhere in teh configuration.h and yes i copied those files from the examples ender 3. please help.

[Anonymous No.1629363]

>>1629341
1.1.9 bugfix has #define bltouch_v3

read this

>My new Smart V3 BLTouch. I am not sure how many this will help, but after hours of trying to get the BLTouch to work (All test would pass, all LED's were working, but the BLTouch would not trigger the Z stop properly and then go into alarm mode), I downloaded the Bugfix version of Marlin 1.1.9, Followed the rest of the instruction here except I uncommented "#define BLTOUCH_V3" and left "#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false" at false per manufacturers recommendation, and all began to work. Hope this saves some people a lot of running around like I did.
Also, thank you for making these videos, it has help make my Ender 3 a great little printer. Teaching Tech is always my first stop for info.

follow this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUlqrSq6LeY

[Anonymous No.1629404]

>>1629257
it's just a copypasta dude
enderfags post it like every other thread

[Anonymous No.1629463]

based chinamen

Ender 3 32-bit replacement board with TMC 2209 drivers on sale tomorrow

[Anonymous No.1629468]

>>1629463
nice, time for an upgrade!

[Anonymous No.1629469]

>>1629468
thanks! cat hiss at penis

[Anonymous No.1629471]

>>1629469
>cat hiss at penis
wut
autotranslate broken?

[Anonymous No.1629486]

What glue do you guys use for PLA?

[Anonymous No.1629490]

>>1629486
acetone or superglue

[Anonymous No.1629582]

>>1629114
I'll try that, thanks.
Should I still use a piece of paper to feel the distance between the nozzle and the card, or am I using card to feel the distance between the nozzle and the bed?

[Anonymous No.1629630]

>>1629486
snap fits

[Anonymous No.1629661]

Finally installed the BLTouch with the bugfix version of marlin. I did a G28 so the probe goes to the middle and does its thing and from there I got G1 F60 Z0.29 where it just barely snags on paper, I then M851 Z0.29 then M500 to save. Right after I do a G29 and it goes to the corner and the probing fails, seems like it slams onto the bed.

[Anonymous No.1629662]

>>1629630
>snap fits
that too. PLA snaps together very well.

[Anonymous No.1629665]

>>1629630
>>1629662
Already have a press fit in two directions, just need to close off the third. Big parts with 3.2mm walls, so I couldn't make them flexible enough for a snap fit.

[Anonymous No.1629673]

>>1629661

Figured it out. It's the mount for the bltouch itself, not low enough + bed not level to begin with, it has nothing to go to but the nozzle itself so it fails. I tested this by putting stacks of washers and it probes all the way through using G29.

I just gotta say that the bltouch was by far the hardest shit I have ever installed.

[Anonymous No.1629680]

>>1629673
Glad you figured it out!
I've been thinking about getting a BLTouch for a while, let me know if you reckon it's worth it.

[Anonymous No.1629711]

>>1629680

worth it simply because very cool feature to have once you upgrade it. i was raging half way through the install :)

[Anonymous No.1629714]

>>1629471
It's an old meme.

[Anonymous No.1629717]

>>1629463
Where? I want this pretty bad! Been thinking about getting a new board but if this is plug and play without any plug conversions I'm sold.

[Anonymous No.1629756]

>>1629717
aliexpress probably around $35

[Anonymous No.1629807]

>>1629010
>I'm not sure what I should do to find the value it should be
I use the "priming swipe" (not sure what to call it)
Or you could use a 1 layer high skirt.
Measure the thickness with calipers. If the layer is supposed to be 0.2mm and you're getting 0.3mm, you need an offset of 0.1mm or -0.1mm, not sure which, I physically adjust the home switch instead

[Anonymous No.1629821]

MK3S conversion done, cable chain mod is a bit janky though.

[Anonymous No.1629826]

It's time

[Anonymous No.1629836]

>>1629821
X axis drag chain looks way too long

[Anonymous No.1629837]

>>1629836
It's to spec from the thingiverse page, used it for a while and it has no issues. All I did was upgrade to MK3S.

[Anonymous No.1629860]

So im guessing with teh bltouch I have to get the magic number for the z offset and then print and adjust accordingly. is that how its done? so far M851 Z-1.6 seems to be working.

[Anonymous No.1629861]

>>1629860
the bltouch just probes a 3x3 grid of the bed before every print and adjusts the Z axis automatically to print at "effective level", you don't need to fuck with magic numbers or Z offset or anything after you get your initial Z offset for squish down.

[Anonymous No.1629866]

>>1629826

[Anonymous No.1629869]

>>1629861

I see, makes sense. Very nice feature to have.

[Anonymous No.1629894]

with bltouch installed. the squish is perfect now :) upgrading an ender 3 is a waste man, that build volume is too small. are there any realistic upgrades for build volume on the ender 3?

[Anonymous No.1629899]

>>1629894
Pretty sure you're never going to be able to just upgrade the build volume of something, just make room for a CR-10 S5

[Anonymous No.1629901]

>>1629826
>>1629866
First test print is going well.

[Anonymous No.1629904]

>>1629894
build a voron 2

[Anonymous No.1629917]

>>1629899

i could have bought one with all the upgrades i have put on the ender 3. cr-10 s5 is nice. if it gets cheap like 400 dollarish for refurb then ill buy it. i got the ender for cheap $135 shipped and just spent good amount of money fixing the usual suspects. yea i would say im way over $400 by now on this thing not including the filaments, shit starts adding up. but i do want to add the belt tensioner for it, it will look nice but its $25 i will till next paycheck. the best filament i have tried thus far is atomic filaments, it feels like real plastic, its hard everything else kind of seems like butter.

[Anonymous No.1629919]

>>1629904

If I'm gonna upgrade from here it has to be a huge leap. i think im good as far as pla goes, i can buy an enclosure for other types of material but just seems like a waste of time. I need SLA quality but CR10 S5 build volume lol and not made out of resin.

[Anonymous No.1629926]

>>1629919
>I need SLA quality but CR10 S5 build volume lol and not made out of resin.
sounds like you need to build your own printer then. You could look into a Railcore 2 but I don't think they make them that big.
>SLA quality
linear rails bolted to surface-milled 3030/4040 extrusion, 0.9 degree steppers, 1/32+ microstepping, 10-12mm diameter 2-4mm lead leadscrews on the z axis.
If you want quality that high on a printer that big it needs to be as rigid as humanly possible - brace every possible corner inside and out, and make sure everything is square.

[Anonymous No.1629952]

>have 4mm drill bit for fixing holes printed horizontally without support
>do not have drill
this is why i'm still totally stoked with 3d printing - the handle took 5 minutes to design, and used 38 cents worth of filament, and it works perfectly. Only downside is it took a little over 2 hours to print on my slow-ass ender 3. Another successful print, another day put off spending too much money on fancy new tools.

[Anonymous No.1629953]

>>1629952

[Anonymous No.1629970]

CR10 S5 came in with 3 of the screws for the bed were knocked off. Started the return process I guess, feels bad man. It's probably fine but I'd rather not take any chances with something getting bent. Also would be a pain to get all the springs compressed and what not.

[Anonymous No.1629998]

New Thread: >>1629997

[Anonymous No.1630076]

>>1629861
>3x3 grid
lol, pleb. Mine probes a 9x9 grid and outputs a mesh to my octopi in case I want to hand tune it.