Rusted hub nut

[Anonymous No.1616974]

Best way to remove one of these which doesn't want to come off?

I'm all out of ideas.

[Anonymous No.1617018]

>>1616974
Torch

[Anonymous No.1617020]

First of take the protective pin out, then the cover as well, use wd-40 and let it soak for 1 hour, then use right socket and put it on the nut. Tap few times with hammer. Use handbrake to stop it from rotating and use breaker bar for leverage, otherwise use impact wrench, torch

[Anonymous No.1617024]

If no impact wrench use a chisel on one of the corners. If that chews up the nut too much then replace it.

[OP No.1617040]

Okay, what I've tried so far and results. All with wheel on, centre cap removed, car on ground, handbrake on, in gear, using a 16" breaker bar and cheater totalling 40".

1. Release spray overnight - nothing
2. Getting assistant to stand on brakes and jumping on end of bar - nothing.
3. Bracing the bar against the ground and driving car - nothing, tyre just drags but nut doesn't budge a thou.

I don't have an impact or torch but may buy one if you think it's a better solution than trying to cut the nut off with a dremel and risking the hub thread getting destroyed in the process.

I have replacement nuts and cotter pins ready to go on

[Anonymous No.1617055]

>>1617020
>use wd-40
There are better penetrating fluids. Straight TF is better even.

[Anonymous No.1617056]

>>1616974
Get some Kroil™, The oil that creeps.

[Anonymous No.1617064]

>>1617040
>I don't have an impact or torch but may buy one if you think it's a better solution than trying to cut the nut off with a dremel and risking the hub thread getting destroyed in the process.
Torch is best.

[OP No.1617067]

>>1617040
Forgot to say I also tried jacking up the end of the bar and letting the weight of the car do the work. Didn't work.

>>1617055
>>1617056
I've used penetrating oil/release spray as mentioned in the OP, multiple applications and letting it sit overnight.

Funny thing is the other side came off really easily but this one has got me utterly stumped.

[Anonymous No.1617068]

I used a 5' length of pipe as a breaker bar and had to put a good bit of my weight on it to crack one of those loose once.

Also, be sure it isn't staked in position, most of them are and you'll need to hammer the staking out of the way. I'd assume not since it has that pin but it doesn't hurt to check.

[Anonymous No.1617070]

>>1616974
lots of penetrating oil.
impact gun

[Anonymous No.1617071]

>>1616974
are you sure you're using the right amount of expletives? with the proper emphasis and emotional feeling?
i mean, it takes a lot of cussing to get this kind of thing done.

[OP No.1617085]

>>1617068
The front pair have an additional detent stake but the rears just have the cotter pin.

>>1617071
Believe me I've been swearing like a twatting docker the past couple of days. Maybe I need a megaphone to amplify the effect?

[Anonymous No.1617090]

>>1617040
take it to a mechanic.

[Anonymous No.1617123]

Not a car guy,
But is it possible that its reverse threaded?

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1617124]

>>1617067
You will wonder how you lived without it considering they aren’t even that expensive, even for lug nuts. Advance Auto also sells the Porter Cable for $100 but you can order online for same day store pickup with coupon and get it for $80

[Anonymous No.1617127]

>>1617124
>but you can order online for same day store pickup with coupon and get it for $80

Why is this the case? Every time I order from advance I do it online now because of this, but I can't help but think it's fucking over the store (assuming they're franchises) in some way.

[OP No.1617129]

>>1617124
Well I'm in the UK so that particular deal wouldn't work for me.

Also, my parking space is 60ft or more away from a mains electricity outlet so I'd be looking at cordless. My other tools are Makita so is there a decent LXT impact at a reasonable price you could recommend?

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1617139]

>>1617127
I don’t think those are franchises. You’re right though, they are very liberal with those coupons. I have gotten a lot of Gearwrench for lower prices than Amazon. I think those parts stores still make stupid profits on certain stuff so it doesn’t hurt them much in the end, just look at the cost of car parts compared to Rock Auto, even the same brand and part number, and you will see. Like this little blower motor plug I needed for a Chebby was realistically a $2 part but I wanted it that day and had to pay $20 from Advance.

Also companies are trying to make a bigger online presence I bet. If the customers all order online, that means they need less employees in the store since there’s less customers in there asking stupid questions and mixing up product.

>>1617129
Meh, I think Makita has a good high torque model but it’s not cheap. $239 from Home Depot here, and that’s assuming you already own some bigger batteries (it won’t work nearly as well without 3.0Ah or bigger). They have a mid torque 1/2”, but it’s not even that much cheaper and might not be enough for the migraine jobs like this.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1617141]

>>1617129
They have the older brushed model too that maybe you can find for cheaper, but look at the specs, it won’t even compare to the newer design.

[Anonymous No.1617142]

>>1617018
Came here to say this.

F

[Anonymous No.1617144]

>>1617024
Shit. This also

[Anonymous No.1617145]

>>1617040
>jumping on the bar.

If something didn't break you didn't do it right. Borrow a 1" breaker bar and get a cheater pipe. Find more friends.

[Anonymous No.1617146]

>>1617055
PB BLAST YO!

Panther piss is best piss

[Anonymous No.1617147]

>>1617064
Nah.

Get a cheaper pipe and heat it up with a 15 dollar propane torch.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1617149]

>>1617129
Makita nigger, what is the deal with this BS? What kind of company won’t let you use newer LXT batteries on older LXT tools? The comments are all over the place, people saying the new batteries worked with some of the old tools, but the newer tools don’t like the old batteries.

[OP No.1617217]

>>1617139
>>1617149
I was looking at the DTW1002Z, may as well stump up for the best right? Body only as I already have a few (starred) 3ah batteries for my other Makita tools. Best price I can find new is about 220gbp though, so like 275usd.

Hopefully if it can stop the earth turning, as many have said, it can get this bastard loose.

[Anonymous No.1617239]

Mouse Milk, impact gun, or a 3/4 drive socket and sliding Tee and a six foot pipe.

[Anonymous No.1617275]

>>1616974
Try turning the other way.

[OP No.1617284]

>>1617275
I already tried that to break it loose. Not budging either way.

Really wish someone made pic related for a 4x110 stud pattern.

[OP No.1617285]

>>1617284
Forgot pic related

[Anonymous No.1617288]

>>1617284
How bout a jack stand under the wrench. Lower the car with jack but keep it there to catch it. Go watch some tv.

[OP No.1617298]

>>1617288
Already tried that
See >>1617067

Probably didn't work because the car only weighs 1600lb. The whole thing just lifted off the ground like I was jacking the chassis directly.

[Anonymous No.1617348]

>>1617146
Liquid Wrench is good too, but for bang for the buck there isn't much that will beat PB Blaster that you can still get at any neighborhood department or parts store.

[Anonymous No.1617356]

>>1617040
make a campfire under it

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1617379]

>>1617284
They sell these torque multipliers you can use with a ratchet or breaker bar, but it’s not cheap to get one that will hold up. And there are still certain things where the shock of the impact works better than straightforward torque,

>>1617217
That doesn’t sound like a bad price, and those 3.0s should be fine as long as they’re 10 cell packs. You won’t regret it. It will save you from these weekend long headaches and zip off lug nuts and anything else super fast.

[Anonymous No.1617408]

torch + good impact

[Anonymous No.1617410]

>>1617298
Do you need to remove the wheel bearing? Shouldn't take that much force.

[Anonymous No.1617413]

>>1616974
Take the pin out

[Anonymous No.1617417]

>>1617413
>Take your penis out.
that's 4chan's answer to everything

[Anonymous No.1617419]

>>1617020
>>1617055
>>1617146

Liquid Wrench works. It also makes everything smell like (likely carcinogenic) shit.

There is virtually nothing it didn't work on for me when soaked over-night.

I have owned a couple 20+ year old cars and the bolts came right off.

If you are utterly fucked and that didn't work, you can always cut it. It should be the last, last resort though, as you will have to clean the thread, if you don't damage it.

Also, a HUGE breaker bar is your best friend here, since you have infinite room.

[Anonymous No.1617433]

>>1616974
I had a similar problem. used PB blaster, tried heat (torch on the nut then upside down air-duster to quickly cool the bolt) then back to PB blaster.

The other things that work are sometimes tightening the nut a bit then backing off. Can clear crap stuck in the threads.

The other thing is using a steel drift (steel bar) and sledge hammer to give the nut a few solid whacks. just not enough to deform it, just to help break any crud.

good luck anon.

[Anonymous No.1617460]

>>1616974
Hit it with your purse

[Anonymous No.1617547]

Did you try my chisel and heavy hammer method? It'll work and if it doesn't it'll chew that weird hollow looking castle nut up to the point where you can just break it off and replace and that's a fucking result.

[OP No.1617548]

>mfw the secret was in the cat's ass all along

https://youtu.be/bbRtX1T8rtQ

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1617559]

>>1617548
>rust belt
My niggas know what it is

[piled corn !stuUhkKwfw No.1617586]

OP, get your breaker bar and like a 6 foot chunk of pipe, get your buddy to hang off/sit on it and if possible bounce/rock without ever taking all his weight off it. then take your hammer, like a 3 pounder, and repeatedly whack the back end of the breaker bar.

imagine the socket is a nail and you want to drive it into the wheel. this will turn your breaker bar and snipe into, effectively, an impact. the impacting action of the hammer onto the end of the breaker bar will transfer from the the breaker bar, to the socket, and finally to the nut.

i can say with 100% certainty this will break it loose.

you dont have to hit it crazy hard, but be stern with it. it will likely take 30+ hits before it starts to move

take a felt pen and draw a line across the nut onto the hub, and this will give you a good visual for seeing the nut move

[Anonymous No.1618167]

Some spindles have righty loosey on one side.

[OP No.1618240]

>>1618167
Checked the visible part of the thread through the castellations. I'm definitely loosening it in the correct direction.

Got a Makita DTW1002 impact coming today so we'll see if that does the trick. Should come in handy for the planned suspension rebuild in any case due to the car's previous life in sunny scotchland.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1618258]

>>1618240
Nice buy. You won’t be disappointed with the big brushless impact. Shit that had you jumping on breaker bars will come off in like 2 seconds. But be careful putting stuff back together with it. They might have a setting like my Ridgid that spins nuts on and then hits the brakes as soon as it starts impacting so you don’t overtighten everything.

[Anonymous No.1618277]

>>1616974
What I used to do, before i bought a 1300 ftlb impact, was use a breaker bar and a jack. Get the angle right so the end of the breaker bars sits right on the jack platform when the jack is fully compressed, and then jack it up. If you’ve got a strong breaker bar, you’ll either break the nut free, or lift that corner of the car. If the car lifts, start hitting the breaker bar with a hammer while it’s under pressure from the jack. This works 95%.

If that doesn’t work, a dremel and some carbide bits will cut through the nut. Cut it into pieces and knock them off with a flathead and a hammer. You’ll end up ruining the threads on your cv joint though.

Then you get to try to push the axle through the hub. That can sometimes be worse than the nut, but they make a tool called a hub puller that works pretty well if you can’t get it Out by whacking it with a hammer.

Coming from someone who dismantles cars for a living, this is the worst individual part to deal with on a rusty car. Crank bolts aren’t even as bad.

[Anonymous No.1618292]

>>1618258
Yeah I've heard it can snap bolts like twigs if you're not careful. Don't think it has a cut-off but Makita helpfully provides torque over time graphs in the manual so I should be ok with a bit of common sense applied. I'll probably just use a torque wrench for tightening anyhow.

>>1618277
Thanks for the advice. I'd tried this earlier but it didn't work for me. As for separating the axle, I hope I don't end up having as much trouble as this guy did:

https://youtu.be/0IGk5CFdF0w

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1618300]

>>1618292
Does it have different speed settings? You can always set it lower as long as it isn’t a real fragile part. Once you get familiar with it, you can probably figure out how long it takes at a lower speed to get your lugnuts real close to torque specs and use it to slam wheels back on.

Anyway I like spinning bolts back on with the 1/4” impact driver. It’s a lot lighter and it will tighten stuff to 50ft-lbs real quick and then I can come back in with the torque wrench for the last half turn. Or for smaller nuts and bolts, the 12v 1/4” and get it to just start to impact before finishing it by hand.

[Anonymous No.1618327]

>>1618300
Yeah it's got 3 speed/impact force settings.

[OP No.1618364]

Well the impact turned up and got the nut off in literally 1 second at the lowest torque setting.

Thing is a fucking beast and I'm now officially a convert. The Mrs might bludgeon me to death with it for shelling out over 200 quid though. I might have to build her something to make amends.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1618395]

>>1618364
Nice.

There are things like that where the rattling of an impact just works better than cheater bar torque. But now you have the beast so you will never have to doubt whether or not a nut will come off.

I’m happy for anon. I don’t even own an impact that nice, but I’m trying to convert people from these breaker bars because so many people still think you need a giant compressor to get rusty bolts off when the cordless tools are a better option. And the high torque brushless impacts like that Makita aren’t even that large.

[Anonymous No.1618422]

>>1618292
Watching this guy struggle is depressing. Fucking nitwit ruined the shaft because he didn't understand how thermal expansion works. It didn't come apart initially because he was wasting all the energy beating on the disassembled hub.

If he'd taken it out and put it in the press to start with, it would have been an easy job.

[Anonymous No.1618750]

>>1618364
Congratulations OP. I read through the whole thread and was rooting for you the entire time.

[Anonymous No.1618753]

>>1618364
I find it odd you didnt just go an buy a cheap corded one at the store, it also would have worked.

[Anonymous No.1618916]

>>1618750
Here too. I know the castle nut feels but have never tried to drive with the breaker bar on.
Also, my home board sucks, this place is nice.

>>1616974
Congrats

[Anonymous No.1618919]

>>1616974
impact wrenches suck on flywheels, pry from behind, 3 points.
remove pin from the middle

[OP No.1618964]

>>1618753
My parking space is 60ft from a mains electricity supply. As I'm already invested in Makita LXT tools it made more sense to me to buy the cordless rather than buy and trail endless extension leads out there. Probably wouldn't have worked out much cheaper and the one I bought has a much higher torque rating anyhow.

>>1618750
>>1618916
Thanks anons. Feels good to win out in the end.

[piled corn !stuUhkKwfw No.1619539]

>>1618753

>buying a corded impact over a cordless

[BepperPepper No.1619561]

>>1619539
If you’re a poorfag who isn’t already invested in Milwaukee, Makita, or DeWalt batteries, it’s the best bang for your buck. They aren’t nearly as good, but you can get this PC for $80 while the M18 with a battery and charger is going to be at least $300-$400.

[Anonymous No.1621055]

>>1619539
>buying a corded impact over a cordless
Only buy cordless stuff if you can keep the batteries in good condition. If it's something you are going to use once a year, the batteries will be dead. Buy a corded unit.

If you stick to one brand of tools with common battery sizes, cordless is OK.

[Beppí No.1621058]

>>1621055
The problem is none of the corded impacts come anywhere close to the high power cordless. They could make a corded model that is powerful, but the money isn’t there.

If you need to break loose a fucked up axle nut like OP and are sick of cussing at it and jumping on cheater bars, Milwaukee and DeWalt know they have you by the balls. You can buy their corded model with 300ft-lbs of torque, or you can get the brushless battery powered model with over 1000ft-lbs of busting nuts capabilities. Do you want to bust a nut or not? Oh, by the way, the $250 impact wrench requires a $150 battery (with all of $15 in materials and labor in it) because the $80 battery doesn’t work as well. Charger? Sure! $50!

>3 months later
Anon: Oh no! My old green drill is shitting the bed, it’s not worth fixing because the batteries aren’t even supported anymore. I just spend $200 on a Yellow battery and charger for that impact wrench so it would make sense to get the Yellow drill. But one battery? What if it’s on the charger? I should buy this 2 pack of batteries on sale for only $170 ($25 in parts & labor) as long as I’m here.

[Anonymous No.1621061]

>>1616974
>Take the cotter pin out
>remove the castle nut cover
>get appropriate metric socket
>lefty loosy, righty tighty
>repair your problem anon

[Anonymous No.1621065]

Could have did the same with a nut splitter for a tenth of the price.

[Anonymous No.1621066]

>>1617124
>garbage wanna be impact guns
>pathetic

[Anonymous No.1621070]

>>1621058
>a $150 battery (with all of $15 in materials and labor
Wtf

[Beppí No.1621175]

>>1621066
There’s an orange Amazon impact gun that is exactly the same thing. And people are saying it seems to be the same as the Porter Cable too with a slightly different case. Both are rated at 450ft-lbs, but the HF gun gives those ridiculous breakaway numbers while the PC doesn’t advertise that stat.

With that being said, the big cordless guns will break bolts WAY faster than that Porter Cable. And there are like no comparisons or real tests online aside from some dumb kid trying to pull a Honda crank bolt and the Bauer wouldn’t do it until he used a special extra heavy special crank bolt socket, leading me to believe that those HF breakaway numbers are complete BS because there’s no way that tool is only ~30% less power than the Milwaukee Fuel.

>>1621070
I mean that’s just the out of my asshole number, but Li-Ion cells aren’t expensive, balancing boards and temp sensors aren’t super complicated electronics, and the plastic case isn’t worth a damn.

DeWalt and Milwaukee aren’t banking when you grab the Black Friday special drill + impact + 2 batteries + charger for $149. They might even lose money after overhead and the retailer’s cut (and the rampant nog theft). They’re making all of their profit when you come back and buy a 6Ah pack for $150.

[Anonymous No.1621300]

>>1616974

This.