/EMT/ Eternal Machinist Thread

[Anonymous No.1612513]

Where did my tenth go?
Thread hymn.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGNiXGX2nLU

Last thread:boards.4channel.org/diy/thread/1600483

>Haas automation videos.
https://www.youtube.com/user/haasautomation/playlists
>Titans of CNC
https://www.youtube.com/user/titanamericanbuilt/playlists

[Anonymous No.1612515]

>>1612513
Contributions

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qq5dFeBhvRQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPIkPGqjBCc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABeio9yOtkI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gJ0PDWs0iU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQ332KGc-6M
https://www.natool.com/engineering-data/tap-style-guide
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92ztzCP76ho
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WN1usZ2K8xI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeKreZqgi9M
https://metalcutting.com/%E2%80%ACwire%E2%80%AD-%E2%80%ACcut%E2%80%AD-%E2%80%ACedm-advantages-disadvantages/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrWskHpk3oo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbMbFvsRTJo
>abom79 is a good channel for manual machining and good "big old iron" work
https://www.youtube.com/user/Abom79
>ThisOldTony provides great videos in the range of hobby garage machining
https://www.youtube.com/user/featony
>Clickspring shows what can be done with truly rudimentary tools
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCworsKCR-Sx6R6-BnIjS2MA
>Robrenz is a wealth of high precision machining, toolmaking, and metrology
https://www.youtube.com/user/ROBRENZ/
>Joe Pieczynski has good tips for the budding machinist on a variety of topics mostly related to manual machining
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpp6lgdc_XO_FZYJppaFa5w
>NYC CNC is half-decent most of the time if you can get past the tormach shilling bullshit
https://www.youtube.com/user/saunixcomp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CX92C3klOiY

[Anonymous No.1612516]

>>1612513
and maybe https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Zy3yElAWwI
and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1oASjbm2F8
and https://www.youtube.com/user/Threadexpress
and this guy does aluminum and steel casting (cool) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzaz39hUUKM
and for old iron and restoring it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nc5Z_Mo2J0Y&t=0s
and this guy isn't particularly funny, but sometimes interesting https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4vaszLFBOE
and stefan gotteswinter https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJgXH6K9GIU&t=1s
and another guy that does metal castings https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5pu3hJ7SZE
and watch this redneck build a million dollar business in his barn https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4aP3SIWIVlY&t=0s
and this guy isn't too big an idiot https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDJOJSBXswo
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCkSr3M8GXbS4txqPY7OMxQ/featured
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXoG9uEMIpA
http://www.cnc1.com/files/PDF/FANUC-CNC-Specifications/Fanuc_0i-MD_Standard_Features_and_Options.pdf
http://www.sharp-industries.com/sites/default/files/parts-book/FANUC%20Series%20Oi%20%26%20Oi%20Mate%20Model%20D%20-%20PARAMETER%20MANUAL.pdf
http://www.sharp-industries.com/sites/default/files/parts-book/FANUC%20Series%20Oi%20%26%20Oi%20Mate%20Model%20D%20%28VMC%29%20-%20OPERATORS%20MANUAL.pdf
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poOngCE7tyM
https://www.youtube.com/user/AndersonPrototypes/videos
https://www.youtube.com/user/artisandice/videos
https://www.youtube.com/user/jhawkdesign/videos?sort=dd&shelf_id=0&view=0
https://www.youtube.com/user/l0ckcr4ck3r/videos
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCuusVnkjtCWzO5FHLNsDxRg
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6QfeDvhEuA5DiUoypF9OYw/videos
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7BdO8koXBLWmzjYLT2aSoA/videos
https://www.youtube.com/user/tjzelick/videos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BOdwByzXls
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wIEi1ElHa6w

[Anonymous No.1612518]

>>1612513
http://tachino.o.oo7.jp/index.html
this one is toptier diy and even in 2018 he post pics like hes on a 56k
http://www.ibara.ne.jp/~ymnr/index.htm
this one is good too
http://mecha-tech.la.coocan.jp/index-e.html
http://www.eonet.ne.jp/~mmf/index.html
http://mini-senban.com/mini-senban/
http://secsuzuki.blog19.fc2.com/
http://sec-suzuki.com/
https://jisakuyaro.com/

[Anonymous No.1612554]

This is pretty inspiring. most of the epoxy granite CNC mills are.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkVN8YMejLc

[Anonymous No.1612575]

I finally took the time to clean some of my tooling

[Anonymous No.1612577]

>>1612575

[Anonymous No.1612587]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34Vg3r0k_e8

[Anonymous No.1612609]

>>1612575
why are your tool holders so weird looking?

[Anonymous No.1612623]

>>1612609
Antique lantern post tools

[Anonymous No.1612807]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=prgN2eFWwFc

new abom video is just like his old ones, very entertaining

[Anonymous No.1612889]

I'm interested in machining as a hobby(side business) but I cant decide if I want to buy a lathe and start wood turning, or build a MPCNC and transfer what I already know from 3D printing into subtractive manufacturing

[Anonymous No.1612981]

>>1612889
err you're woodworking then?

3d printed parts on a metal cnc isn't going to work for long.

used VMC's are cheap though, tax cuts have companies buying new machines and selling the old ones, also Tormachs really aren't that bad.

[Anonymous No.1612993]

>>1612981
Mostly yes just to learn, its also cheaper to get into the wood stuff
I havent tried to price anything much bigger than a bench top lathe but I seriously doubt I could afford anything as serious as a tormach

[Anonymous No.1613002]

>>1612993
cnc router kit from China?

routers have super high RPM spindles for lower cutting forces working on wood and sometimes aluminum

you can probably use the machine to upgrade it's self too, with a more rigid structure. You could even try that epoxy granite stuff.

Routers also have bigger working envelopes so you can put a big ass plank of wood on there and make a big sign or something.

[Anonymous No.1613021]

>>1612889

We talking CNC lathe or like a regular wood lathe with chisels?

I have (small versions of) both. I don't remember the last time I used the wood lathe, and I only have used it a few times in total. I just don't do much decorative work, and that's just about all you can do with traditional wood turning. If that's what you want to do, go for it, but don't buy one expecting to make much in the way of practical parts.

As an aside, virtually nothing about 3D printing applies to machining. CAM is completely different, setup for machining ops is far more involved, mistakes are often expensive and/or disastrous. I went from just having (hobby) machining equipment to a cheap 3D printer, fully expecting it to be much easier in general. I was still astounded by how much I could do with virtually zero effort. I don't fancy being someone going the other way, DESU.

Not to be discouraging or anything. Having proper CNC equipment is totally worth. Doubly so if you know how to use it.

[Anonymous No.1613277]

Alright boys it's Sunday.

What little metal trinket should I cnc?

[Anonymous No.1613327]

>>1613277
something butt related

[Anonymous No.1613334]

Little known tricks about Kurt vises

Now when you're done with machining and you have coolant under the moveable jaw you can just use the air nozzle to blow the crap out from under it too. Fucking amazing, no more rust spot under my moveable jaw. Something about the old cast iron my vises are made from, they rust a lot quicker than my Tormach.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZgvW5_iXWw

[Anonymous No.1613343]

I've been cleaning up the tailstock and under the two layers of paint there's this white shit almost everywhere, it's a much softer material than the paint and makes a ton of dust when I sand it, is that some kind of base coat? It's very different to the normal paint, reminds me the most of car body filler epoxies. If it's something protective like that, I probably shouldn't nigger it with my scraping and sanding.

For the anon that wanted the multifix model, with great difficulty I undid the screw and removed it, took the measurements, apparently it's a type B, is that the size you want?

[Anonymous No.1613346]

>>1613343
In this chart it's type 540-300

[Anonymous No.1613355]

>>1613343
Yep, that's bondo.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ox2q2l-ug8

Even today they still put bondo over rough casting areas then paint over it.

[Anonymous No.1613358]

>>1613346
Yeah it is, but don't worry about it if it's too much trouble.

[Anonymous No.1613360]

>>1613343
>>1613355
and when keith rucker tears down and cleans a machine he too puts bondo on some areas before painting.

[Anonymous No.1613373]

>>1613355
>>1613360
I see, so no reason to take it off or leave it on, I'll probably go with whichever is less work and doesn't cover my garage in white dust.
>>1613358
I had to take it off to clean it anyway, now I have the numbers so it's just making the model. I probably won't model the clamping mechanism because it's complicated and I can't take it apart I think, I'll take pictures and post some rough measurements of it.

[Anonymous No.1613387]

>>1612513
How does one get into machining? Are mini lathes worth it just for learning? I don't have time to take classes but maybe could find one on the weekend? any advice would be appreciated.

[Anonymous No.1613395]

>>1613387
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05vUCdzhoe4

[Anonymous No.1613398]

>>1613387
>How does one get into machining?
Subscribe to TOT, optionally Abom.
>Are mini lathes worth it just for learning?
If you have the space for a normal sized lathe, get a normal sized lathe. The price difference should be small and it'll be miles better.
Even from mini lathes, there are some older models that are proper cast iron with good tolerances, but they usually cost a lot more since there's a lot of demand for them.

[Anonymous No.1613404]

>>1613387
Mini lathes are for turning money pure garbage shipped from Asia that masquerades as a sideways powerdrill that can only create endless frustration and unending hatred.

[Anonymous No.1613407]

>>1613387
>>1613395
I would say to avoid these mini lathes at all cost unless you absolutely CANNOT buy a lathe that you can't lift by yourself and go up and down a flight of stairs with it alone.
Here's why - Like This Old Tony said in the video, the more time you spend with it, the grimmer it gets. I have the LMS version, the 7x16, it has a more powerful motor and I got the steel change gears. It's supposed to be the "best" version of the 7" metal lathe and after a few years of various use, I can say the following.
The ways are so soft, I've dented them from dropping aluminum on them from a few inches up. Every way is cut with a bit of a taper, so if I adjust the ways acceptably tight at one end, it binds up by the time I'm at the other end of the way travel. Every way is like that. The tailstock plate that rides on the way isn't cut with a flat that sits on the flat of the way and a V section that sits on the V of the way, it's cut with a 45 degree angle that sits on one side of the V, and then cut straight flat so where ever the plate ends is where it contacts the way on the flat. The lever that locks the tailstock to the way is off-center so it bends the tailstock off the axis of the spindle, the only way to get a consistent tailstock lock is to use the nut and a torque wrench. Even then, the tailstock at best is 0.012" off from the center axis of the spindle. There is more wrong with this insult-to-lathes than I can type out. You may buy one of these and by luck, get one that isn't as bad as mine, but you just got lucky.

DO

NOT

BUY

EVER!

Find a used south bend or any smaller used lathe that isn't a 7" mini metal. Even if it's clapped right out and missing pieces and coated in rust, it'll still be a thousand times better than a brand new 7" mini-metal.

[Anonymous No.1613419]

>>1613398
>>1613404
>>1613407
Size is defiantly an issue. Its too bad that they don't make a top quality version for dabbling machinists/hobbyists. thanks for the advice lads. I'll keep exploring my options.

[Anonymous No.1613421]

>>1613419
the only way to do that would be to use more cast iron, and that eats into their shipping costs from overseas.

a used manual industrial lathe can be had for around $2,500 these days

But CNC machines are getting cheap too. CNC is amazing, don't overlook it.

[Anonymous No.1613429]

>>1613421
>CNC
The CNC stuff you can buy for a similar price to manual lathes is usually ancient, I wouldn't want to be repairing that shit when something in the electronics inevitably craps out. Probably better to do a modern CNC conversion on a manual lathe instead, even if that limits some of the automation you can do.

[Anonymous No.1613476]

lol 'merica

Demand for used 3-phase machinery/tools is next to nothing because people don't even know how to run it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NTsPIQqEjJ4

[Anonymous No.1613478]

>>1613476
>posting that faggot here

"No"

[Anonymous No.1613486]

what the fuck I have never used facebook, how do I find those machine listings everyone is talking about?

[Anonymous No.1613488]

>>1613486
Aren't they on craigslist for burgers?

[Anonymous No.1613495]

>>1613488
no one uses craigslist near me and if it's on craigslist they don't want to ship it

USA is gigantic

[Anonymous No.1613497]

>>1613488
Craigslist is ok, facebook marketplace is a lot better nowadays though.

>>1613486
You not only have to have a facebook, it has to be a verified facebook. I deleted my personal facebook in like 2010, I made developer one when I considered using facebook ads in my mobile apps. Never actually verified it and I cant access the marketplace under it

>i called and asked my mom for her FB info, and log into that when I want to browse the marketplace
kek

[Anonymous No.1613498]

>>1613495
Thats the best and worst thing with FB marketplace.
It shows you a lot, but most of the stuff im interested in is not worth driving 2 or 3 states away for.

[Anonymous No.1613499]

>>1613495
Most people don't want to ship 2-ton machines, it's usually the buyer's responsibility. You go there, look at it, if it's good, you arrange shipping, at best the seller offers loading. The distance you can search for things in depends mostly on what you are buying and how much you're ready to pay for shipping.

[Anonymous No.1613511]

Why do they call a .01 a tenth when it's really a hundredth

[Anonymous No.1613525]

>>1613511
must be a metric thing

a tenth in american is 0.000 1"

[Anonymous No.1613526]

>>1613525
aka one ten-thousandth of an inch

[Anonymous No.1613530]

>>1613511
In US standard we don't, that's "ten thou" not a "tenth"

[Anonymous No.1613550]

what's the difference between a south bend and something like a kent or a clausing?

[Anonymous No.1613551]

>>1613511
I've literally never heard that ever. The overwhelming majority of cases I've seen personally is

1 = one inch
0.1 = hundred thou
0.01 = ten thou
0.001 = one thou
0.0001 = one tenth (if context isn't clear, often it will be said "one tenth of a thou"

1.2398 = an inch, two hundred thirty nine thou and eight tenths.

it's not rocket surgery

[Anonymous No.1613563]

>>1613551
oh I have heard "a tenth" refer to 0.1, as a tenth of an inch.

[Anonymous No.1613668]

We really need an OP post with actual links and information so we can just be like, read the post, and not have to tell people 20-30 times a month.

[Anonymous No.1613738]

So I need to turn an existing part that is only like 1/16” thick, and has no through hole. Have yall ever used epoxy as a ‘vice’ to hold your work onto the end of a mandrel? Am I just asking for a projectile to the forehead?

[Anonymous No.1613764]

>>1613668
that never works anon

>>1613738
1/16 thick tubing with no through-holes? or just a 1/16 rod? how long? don't spin something long and thin without support it can turn into a deadly flail.

Why is it so hard to help you, articulate boy articulate!

[Anonymous No.1613793]

>>1613764
I am starting with a 1" diameter disk of steel 1/8" thick. I need to machine a pocket in the center with a diameter of 7/8" and 1/16" deep. I have no idea how to hold it without a center hole, which must be avoided. I realize a mill would probably be simpler, but I only have a lathe. Would it be possible to epoxy it onto the end of a longer rod, which is chucked into the lathe?
>pic related is final geometry.

[Anonymous No.1613796]

>>1613793
glue will work since it's such a large surface area for what little cuts you'll be doing.

[piled corn !stuUhkKwfw No.1613823]

>>1613793

take a square piece of 1/4 inch plate a bit bigger than your disk, and trace the circle on it

then trace another circle thats an inch or so bigger, so you have a half inch of space between the two circle traces

then center punch, drill and tap 4 or 6 or 8 or whatever holes around the outer circle, 7/32 drill with a 1/4 coarse tap will be fine.

then get either some fender washers, or just pieces of 1/8 flatbar and drill a hole in em.

put these on your bolts, put your disk to be machined on the piece of plate you just drilled and tapped, then thread the bolts in and the washers will hold the disk in place. make sure its center.

now you can do whatever the fuck you want with the piece of plate behind the disk. weld a piece of something on the back to hold it in a chuck.

i would drill and tap the back plate to 1/2 inch fine thread right in the center and use a short bolt with a jam nut to chuck it up

[Anonymous No.1613856]

>>1613793
How many of these do you have to do?

If it's more than 10 a fixture with a clamping ring might be the way to go, if it's less than 10 I'd just chuck up on it gently, throw an indicator on the face and knock it around with a piece of brass to get it running true before you fully clamp down on it.

[Anonymous No.1613857]

>>1613793
smaller chuck? finer jaw serrations would grip it better, it's so small that you aren't doing heavy roughing operations, just a good spacer between face of chuck and part to make it stick out far enough to turn it.

[Anonymous No.1613898]

>>1613793
waait....

just turn the damn thing while it's still on the longer rod, then part it off.

[Anonymous No.1613899]

oxtool classic showing off some master toolmaker tools

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEKnQBGjHtE

[Anonymous No.1613928]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZbnYbVsCd0

more 3d printed workholding

[Anonymous No.1614135]

>>1612513
I have a lovely old welding helmet now, but I am from the land of big heads and I'm having to balance the thing on some small section of head. Where to buy a head adjuster what is very large?

I have a roughly acromegaly sized skull, like the welding helmet would fit nearly anyone but I have to be me.

[Anonymous No.1614215]

>>1613898
I cant I am modifying an existing part with serial numbers engraved.

>>1613857
The exterior of the part cannot have teeth marks. Well, at least I would prefer if they didnt as its a sealing surface in a piston assembly. I guess some extra grease would help.

>>1613856
1x. it really seems like I'm either going to have to chuck it up or build a fixture );

>>1613823
I guess this is the proper way to do it in order to avoid pinching the edges of the part too hard. I figured my epoxy plan was too ghetto to be safe.

[Anonymous No.1614219]

>>1614215
Do you have a chuck with bolt on jaws?

You could bolt aluminum soft jaws onto them and turn an ID in the AL for the part to set in.

[Anonymous No.1614243]

>>1614215
you could even hold a square piece of aluminum in the chuck, bore an ID the size of your part, take it out, saw a slot into it, drill and tap for a screw to clamp it.

[Anonymous No.1614276]

>>1613793
can you not use soft jaws?

[Anonymous No.1614291]

>>1614276
I dont own a set

[Anonymous No.1614300]

>>1614291
so make them? if you cant even make a set get some roundbar thats like 1.25 inches or more and bore a recess to fit your part into it, superglue it in and boom done.

[Anonymous No.1614316]

>>1614300
what about something like an emergency collet? he could bore a recess into some aluminum round stock and then cut 3 slots along the length of it.

[Anonymous No.1614318]

>>1613793
Glue, magnets, softjaw... the list goes on...

[Anonymous No.1614326]

>>1614316
absolutely a viable course of action, it would require more work of course.

[Anonymous No.1614334]

>>1614316
would need a big collet style, 5c is probably too small

[Anonymous No.1614413]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsAmaiNQEJM

PH Horn thread mills, guy claims it's faster to thread mill holes in some materials than to tap them.

[Anonymous No.1614424]

>>1614413
when ur cutting exotic metals its def better to thread mill since you can maintain better repeatability, you arent overloading your spindle if its something like aluminium bronze that will cloze up and grab a tap and you dont ever have to worry about breaking a tap off inside a part

[Anonymous No.1614432]

This guy's place is quite the success story.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1cud_RaHhw

>ye m8 i wus settin' around the pub and we thot, oy we should start a business

[Anonymous No.1614448]

Fusion 360 update:

“NC Programs” has been added to the manufacture workspace. By creating an NC Program, a CNC programmer will have more control and visibility over the operations that will be included in a program, as well as the order in which those operations occur. Special scenarios that previously could not be reviewed without post processing, such as optimizing the number of tool changes for a program that contains multiple setups that share tools, can now be correctly simulated and verified before post processing. In addition, the program and post processor settings in an NC Program are saved.

https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/blog/may-20-2019-product-updates-whats-new/

[Anonymous No.1614539]

Can these things also drill, or can they only cut to sides?
I want to use them to mill holes into 3 mm thick fiberglass sheet (circuit board)

[Anonymous No.1614540]

>>1614539
They usually can, but you should pay attention to the type of endmill, the ones that can drill are called "plunge endmills". The ones in your picture should be able to.

[Anonymous No.1614542]

>>1614540
Ok thanks. I just want to drill tiny holes for component legs.
Also, could you reckon a guess on how long will end mill like that last before i need to replace it?
I will use it for making pcbs (so drilling said holes and also cutting 0.5mm wide traces into 0.03556mm thick copper.)

[Anonymous No.1614543]

>>1614542
If it's not made poorly, it should last very long in PCB, but I've never milled PCBs. Probably the only concern would be copper gumming it up, but I don't know if such a small amount can do it. Also you'll probably break a lot of them since they are thin and fragile.

[Anonymous No.1614546]

>>1614543
>poorly
the gold stuff should be titanium plating and the seller boasts a high quality... but then again, the seller is Ping Pong
If they work will i will order a whole crate of them since they are so cheap and also use super flow feeding rates to prevent breaking

[Anonymous No.1614547]

>>1614546
With chinkshit it's usually things like the quality of the steel and quality of the machining that might be poor. Carbide chinkshit is usually still high quality, HSS is hit or miss. For PCBs it should be good enough anyway.

[Anonymous No.1614604]

>>1614539
The ones that can drill are called "center cutting" end mills.

If it doesn't have the flutes go all the way to the center then don't try drilling with it.

[Anonymous No.1614605]

>>1614604
>>1614539
and drilling with an end mill usually makes long stringy chips so plunge down a little ways then go back up to break the chip, etc. a peck-drilling strategy.

[Anonymous No.1614677]

Hey guys, I'm looking or a knurling tool for my cnc lathe. I need the knurls to be interchangeable. anyone got any recommendations?

[Anonymous No.1614681]

>>1614677
http://www.formrolldie.com/serv02.htm

used by Titan's kid running the CNC lathe there

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FdsTONRV8fY

[Anonymous No.1614682]

>>1614677
I saw some shop using Zeus knurling tool and it's pretty slick. There are many version of it but I don't have experience on that.

[Anonymous No.1614684]

>>1614681
https://youtu.be/FdsTONRV8fY?t=220

[Anonymous No.1614691]

Anyone here having tap end mill/drill chuck inside collet chuck to get a good runout?
I think my OZ25 chuck is bell mouthed badly getting 0.1mm runout is a blessing.

[Anonymous No.1614725]

>>1614691
put an indicator on the taper and spin the spindle, I wouldn't be too surprised if the collet chuck to backplate mounting is haphazard. You might be able to get the taper running true to the spindle bore by shimming or modifying the back plate.

It's a collet chuck right?

[Anonymous No.1614749]

>>1614725
It's on an old milling machine. Taper is NT40.
>It's a collet chuck right?
Yes it is.
I removed its spindle and replace it with new angular contact ball bearings (cheap P0 grade one)
Here's the picture of me rigging a test setup, the spindle bore have around 0.05mm runout.

[Anonymous No.1614754]

>>1614749
>0.05mm

2 thou is a bit excessive for a milling spindle, but most manual mill spindles do have some amount of run-out, probably around a half thou to 1 thou.

They will sometimes re-grind the taper for concentricity.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ech5OEuIl74
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFAkb93_V3M
mini-IMTS in Canada with Grimsmo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4K0OsuHsC2s

[Anonymous No.1614765]

>>1614754
Yeah, it's way too much, The machine is old and heavily abused in the past. Replacing bearings (which cost only around $35) allowing spindle to be rigid enough to do plunge mill like this (it can't in the past).
Sorry for all the machine horror but I'm on budget at that time :P

[Anonymous No.1614777]

Check out this very satisfying machining compilation
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PsFNeiAu04M

[Anonymous No.1614792]

>>1614604
That endmill is ugly as fuck.
The long teeth, ie the center cutting teeth should be thin in the middle but not that thin. The primaries should almost touch.

That's a garbage grind that wont plunge cut for dick

[Anonymous No.1614886]

>>1614777
btw rob renzetti is on instagram and posts like every day

[Anonymous No.1614900]

Abom uses a mini lathe again

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=twA0w6pSWZQ

[Anonymous No.1614951]

>>1614681
>>1614682
>>1614684
appreciate it guys.

Also, going to my first tooling auction next week. what should I expect?

[Anonymous No.1614953]

>>1614951
lots of stuff going for cheap that people can't move

i envy you

[Anonymous No.1614956]

>>1614951
lots of junk you accidentally bidded.

[Anonymous No.1614958]

>>1614953

TONS of tooling, inserts, insert drills, mills, lathes, and all sorts of shit.

I don't need machinery though. I'm more after the metrology and tooling

>>1614956
I'm going to write down the lot numbers and bid on those specifically.

[Anonymous No.1614997]

>>1614956
>>1614958
Expect people to pay more than you expected, sometimes more than you can get the item for on ebay. There can definitely be steals found, but people also act crazy sometimes.

Preview the items carefully. You will get burned on something, so the goal is to minimize that. Where possible don't bid outside your knowledge. You'll end up with an amazing tool that only runs on 220v/50hz, or whatever it is you can't use.

Most auctions charge %18 fee + local tax... so you can easily pay an additional 25% on whatever you buy. That shit adds up fast.

Everything is heavier than you think, and will be too big for whatever vehicle you bring.

[Anonymous No.1614999]

I got these along with a small press. Can anyone help me ID them? Or what they would be used for?

[Anonymous No.1615078]

>>1614999
Probably jigs for who knows what.

[Anonymous No.1615132]

>>1614999
The thing at the far right is a keyboard

[Anonymous No.1615238]

ceramic endmill milling inconel looks like hardmilling

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TA7uR6PqJSQ

[Anonymous No.1615249]

>>1614999
Looks like a bunch of free material for you to machine or weld at your desire.

[Anonymous No.1615250]

>>1615238
Nice! A vid where Titan isn't speaking.

[Anonymous No.1615271]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ptdo2bSKov0

I guarantee that this lathe is an order of magnitude BETTER IN EVERY MEASURABLE WAY than a 7" "mini metal lathe".

[Anonymous No.1615279]

>>1615271
it ain't much better than a 10" chicom lathe with threading though

[Anonymous No.1615280]

Fenner is repairing a laundromat roller

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WindwoIodqU

[Anonymous No.1615291]

>>1615271
>That machine frame bending and giving
Yikes.
>>1615280
Badass boring head.

[Anonymous No.1615295]

machined puzzles

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X67nrALN5Ls

[Anonymous No.1615313]

very soothing modern machining

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4ttzXSIWzE

[Anonymous No.1615334]

I have an internship for a company specialised in composites and they know nothing about metal.
I am the only one there who knows anything about metal and they come to me with all kinds of weird questions. Last week they asked what Ra 125 means (this turned out to be false)
And today I had to make some pen calipers 17.6552mm round on a manual machine without a digital readout. I got 17.6554mm so my day can't be ruined anymore.

[Anonymous No.1615351]

>>1615334
>four digits after decimal place
>in metric
I don't believe you have any instruments that can measure even three places reliably.

I'd love to see your lapping and interferometry setup though if you're serious.

[Anonymous No.1615364]

>>1615334
I don't believe anything you just said.

[Anonymous No.1615375]

>>1615334
>Last week they asked what Ra 125 means (this turned out to be false)
What?

[Anonymous No.1615499]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=po9wapoDRas

ToT shills for his Noga indicator holders (i recommend them too)

[Anonymous No.1615523]

>>1615499
I like mine, but I wish I had bought the base adjustment one instead of the adjustment on the arm.

It may be more expensive in the short run, but goddamn after the 5th time you accidentally knock the indicator off you'll be wishing for it.

[Anonymous No.1615537]

>>1615523
I too prefer the fine adjust at the base style, the one on the head is far too squirrely imo

[Anonymous No.1615581]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c4-KG6D3nRY

that o-ring is a stroke of genius

[Anonymous No.1615674]

>>1615334
four decimals in metric from an intern on a manual lathe. .0002mm fuck off your part will expand more than that going from ambient air temp to body temp

[Anonymous No.1615678]

>>1615674
probably depends on the material

maybe he is an alien turning pure unobtanium on a space-chink lathe?

[Anonymous No.1615724]

>>1615334
>pen calipers 17.6552mm round
>not hexagon

[Anonymous No.1615766]

I want to engrave acrylic .2mm deep with my shitty small 12v engraving motor and a 1.5mm bit
What feeding speed should i go for? Something super slow like 1mm/s?

[Anonymous No.1615768]

>>1615766
Figure out the motor's RPM and put all the data into a feed calculator, there are many of them online. Should be around 4-5mm/s.

[Anonymous No.1615778]

>>1615768
chinks don't specify rpm, i guess i'll go 2mm/s just to be safe even thought it will take forever, but at 0.2mm depth it should be more than fine

[Anonymous No.1615895]

Does anyone know if you can anodize with stainless screws holding the part?

Just talked to my anodizer and the steel black oxide coated 6-32 screws I provided to hang the parts with, he can't use those in the anodizing bath.

[Anonymous No.1615900]

>>1615895
Going by google, no. Supposedly it has to be non-conductive material, although I think I read they use titanium also. Should ask the guy what they use.

[Anonymous No.1615904]

>>1615900
he hangs them with wire I think

[Anonymous No.1615905]

>>1615904
Yeah, but what kind of wire? Should be titanium by what I remember. You can also use aluminium screws of course, if the usage permits it, that's probably the cheapest solution.

[Anonymous No.1615907]

>>1615905
Damn, cheapest titanium #6-32 screws I can find are like $4/piece and I need 50 of them or so.

Might buy them eventually if the results I get back are poor. Just recently bought some re-usable containers to transport them in.

pic related

[Anonymous No.1615909]

>>1615907
should make shipping to anodizer quick and easy, might put some towels in the bottom of the compartments for dampening.

[Anonymous No.1615919]

>>1615907
Can you not use aluminium? Also I'm assuming the parts themselves are aluminium and you're talking about alu anodizing, if it's something else, different rules might apply.

[Anonymous No.1615921]

>>1615919
I don't know, that will be my first attempt. I'll see what the anodizer says about it.

[Anonymous No.1615954]

When should someone use flat head screws and when should they use regular round head screws?

Just when there isn't room for a counterbore and it needs to be flush?

[Anonymous No.1615969]

>>1615954
Depends on the function. SHC screws have more area in contact with the surface they're being tightened onto. They generally have deeper drive holes for allen wrenches to fit into, so they're less prone to strip out and handle torque pretty well. They use these to tighten up the plates found in heavy progressive dies and moldbases.

Flat head screws that tighten flush into countersunk areas are generally good for form, in smaller parts, for applications where torque is of lesser importance, and where its nice to have some more play with location. They're also useful for getting some more surface area contact in thinner plates where being flush is important and counterboring would leave too little meat to compress.

[Anonymous No.1615996]

Is it normal for end mills to have wobble during milling?
I just don't get it.
I bought a set of small end mills and they have like a milimeter of wobble when spinning.
I thought chinks sent me shitty bent end mills, but when i put the end mill alone into my power drill it's spin is absolutely pristine.
But when i put it into my drill with that thing it is inserted into in the photo (it is used to attach the end mill to my milling motor), it gains the wobble, suggesting the the thing is somehow bent.
Okay, bad piece it happens. Luckily i bought two sets. So i tried the other piece i had, and it has the exact same fucking wobble.
Whats going on?

[Anonymous No.1615997]

>>1615996
I also tried to put it in that black think, which a small version of the thing power drills use to hold onto bits... and same fucking wobble.

[Anonymous No.1615999]

>>1615996
That's most likely your shitty dremel and shitty chuck (the black thing). What exactly are you putting them into? Dremel, router, drill, drill press?

[Anonymous No.1616003]

>>1615999
It's this industrial grade CNC motor

[Anonymous No.1616007]

>>1616003
Your industrial grade CNC motor is probably not the most well made thing in the world, but the wobble presumably comes from the adapters you have coming off of it. Either way the only practical solution you have now is to try running the motor at lower RPM, maybe try figuring out the direction of the wobble. Does it still wobble with only the adapter and chuck installed, without an endmill?

[Anonymous No.1616008]

Hello, I'm looking to compare the pricing and performance of a CNC Router to a UV Resin Printer. Specifically, is there any automated Routers that can do engravings that can be measured in Microns?
Is there one that does this AND costs less than $400?
Apologies if I'm out of place here. New to the board, old had over at /tg/

[Anonymous No.1616010]

>>1616008
What exactly are you trying to do with it?

[Anonymous No.1616011]

>>1616010
See if it's cheaper to create 3D bits and pieces using a Printer, or to do so by carving it out of a block of aluminum or polystyrene.

[Anonymous No.1616014]

>>1616010
>>1616011

Specifically, Stuff that is in 28mm Heroic Scale for /tg/ related activities

[Anonymous No.1616016]

>>1616011
Aluminium is a completely different world of pain from working plastics as far as cheap routers are concerned, so I would say that's outside your scope. Then it depends exactly what you want to do. If you want some small figures, CNC is definitely not the way to go. A normal CNC router will have 3 axes, it cannot turn the piece around to cut fine details, it can only work top-down. A 3D printer is printing layer-by-layer, so it can create fine details at any point, with some limitations.
Watch some videos of how they work and you'll understand the problem with the CNC. The resin printer is probably the way to go. Normal FDM 3D printers with .1mm nozzles can also do pretty decent details, but might have different limitations from UV resin.

[Anonymous No.1616033]

>>1616007
the motor and bit is fine, it's that small piece the end mill is inserted in that wobbles

[Anonymous No.1616035]

>>1616033
Can you move the endmill around when the motor is stopped, or is the chuck holding it firmly? Try pulling on it, see if it slips out of the chuck.

[Anonymous No.1616045]

>>1616035
It's pretty firm, but putting more force into tightenning the holding cap reduced the wobble to about 0.3mm which is great as that is enough

[Anonymous No.1616046]

>>1616045
You can try to shim it also, put a piece of thin aluminium (beer can) around the endmill and then put it into the collet, but make sure it's exactly covering the endmill once, otherwise you can introduce even more wobble.

[Anonymous No.1616059]

if it can cut metal it can cut wood and glass right?

[Anonymous No.1616068]

>>1616059
Yes, but wood and glass require different cutting tools than metal.

But a machine capable of cutting metal should be able to withstand the forces of cutting wood and glass.

[Anonymous No.1616085]

>>1616014
3d printer might be better for you and I don't say this often.

[sage goes in all fields No.1616116]

>>1616059

>glass
>anywhere near my precious, precise ways

I mean, you CAN, but that sure as shit isn't something I'd want to regularly do on a machine that wasn't very well protected from the highly-abrasive grit it produces.

[Anonymous No.1616121]

>>1616116
>mfw I sand on my lathe

[Anonymous No.1616182]

>tfw just watched this again and realized I acquired one of those blocks in an auction but didn't know exactly what it was for

>tfw could have used it a few days ago, gonna use it tomorrow

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sm8w0YU4qOg

[Anonymous No.1616185]

Is there any benefit to reducing the RPM on very light facing cuts in aluminum? Small DOC but lower RPM so now there is less rubbing, right?

[Anonymous No.1616194]

>>1616185
That's not how chipload works.

[Anonymous No.1616195]

>>1616185
i have never heard of anyone reducing rpm for finishing cuts on anything

if they arent finishing cuts why would they be light?

[Anonymous No.1616226]

>>1616195
because they are facing cuts...

[sage goes in all fields No.1616240]

>>1616185

Unless you're trying to bring down the surface speed because you're using HSS or high-carbon (lol) tooling, no. Chipload is chipload.

[Anonymous No.1616245]

>>1616226
Light facing is the same as a finish cut. If you're having issues with chip weldment then your rpm was too high to begin with or your tool isn't ground properly.

[Anonymous No.1616262]

>
>>1616116
The glass is acrylic so the grit should be pretty soft

[Anonymous No.1616293]

Let's mill this wood with a 3d printer and an end mill intended for metal only, there is no way anything can go wrong here.

[Anonymous No.1616295]

>>1616293
The sounds it's making are nightmare fuel, but holy shit it's working.

[Anonymous No.1616296]

>>1616295
That's a weird looking swastika.

[Anonymous No.1616297]

>>1616296
it's a snek

[Anonymous No.1616299]

>>1616295
Alright, encouraged by the positive results with wood, i will try glass next

[Anonymous No.1616301]

>>1616299
So far so good, but holy shit there is a ton of dust from that shit, i reaaaaaally hope it's not carcinogenic

[Anonymous No.1616302]

>>1616301

[Anonymous No.1616304]

>>1616302
submerge it in water, it cracks very easily otherwise

[Anonymous No.1616305]

>>1616304
I am only milling 0.1mm deep and at 1mm/s plus in tutorials i watched nobody used anything like that so i should be fine hopefully

[Anonymous No.1616306]

>>1615249
fair enough. still curious though! I thought #6 was a pretty standard looking though. Same with the #1 block. 2 4 5 have text stamped on them, so was hoping that would be a clue.

[Anonymous No.1616312]

>>1616305
Jesus fucking christ christ, it will take over 12 hours to finish the snek.
I am used to think in 3d printing speeds so my brain just assumed like 30 mins tops but i haven't accounted for the 1mm/s speeds
The good thing though is that since the steppers ar emoving so slow, their driver's aren't even getting worm so i can keep the fans off and not get them covered in acrylic grit

[Anonymous No.1616318]

>>1616312
But there is definitely too much grit to mill without a cover around the bit, i will have to print some collar to put on, since one small milling is fine, but if i wanted to do more that should would pile up

[Anonymous No.1616323]

>>1616312
You can probably go a lot faster. It's a rookie CNC mistake to think that going slow is solving anything. Going shallow yes, but there are certain speeds that you should maintain for each given material and tool. Unless your motor is too weak and bogs down even at .05mm DOC, then you just have to go slower.

[Anonymous No.1616331]

>>1616323
The whole thing is held together by flimsy PLA plastic and moved by thin rubber belts intended for spitting out thin plastic noodles, all this moving an end mill that i barely got to wobble within an at least an acceptable margin
trust me, if i increase the feed speed by even an additional planck length per second, the whole thing will turn into a ball of superheated plasma

[Anonymous No.1616340]

>>1616331
Meh, i fucked up when centering the glass on the bed so the mill walked off and got stuck, but overall it doesn't look like total shit, but definitely could benefit from a thinner end mill. 1mm i used is too thicc.
With a bit more tunning and some additional grit handling 3d printer milling is definitely viable

[Anonymous No.1616348]

>>1616340
>end mill
Use a burr

[Anonymous No.1616350]

>>1616348
you mean like a diamond ball?

[Anonymous No.1616384]

>>1616185
I don't think there are any unless your fly cutter is monster huge.

[Anonymous No.1616430]

>>1616262
Well then it's not fucking glass at all, is it?

[Anonymous No.1616461]

What is the best way to leverage my IT skills as an entrepreneur in the CNC machining world?

What tasks are actually helped by writing scripts and algorithms? Is there some easy (low barrier to entry) way to leverage these skills in some popular CAM software?

If only the skills were mutually beneficial. There are more than a few successful machining businesses started by CS degree holders too.

>>1616340
glass is so hard that I would think a ceramic end mill would do better than just carbide.

[Anonymous No.1616462]

>>1616340
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HyI111Tn0Cs

[Anonymous No.1616465]

>>1616461
It's all about arduinos and gcode breh

[Anonymous No.1616476]

how do I become an engineer's rapid prototyping monkey? I don't want to go to engineering school so this is probably the closest I can get to developing cool new stuff.

[Anonymous No.1616505]

>>1616348
he already is,
>>1614539
>>1615996


>>1616350
if this were actual glass, then yes a diamond bit would be ideal. since your glass isnt glass dont use a diamond because it will just load up. go to homedupa and get a hss or carbide ball in the dremel section and go less than 0.1mm start at like .05 or less and go from there, it sounds like your doing engraving more than milling

[Anonymous No.1616507]

Servos for PCNC machines later this year, kind of excited. I don't really have a problem with missing steps, but it's nice idiot proofing, and I bet rigid tapping is coming too.

[Anonymous No.1616513]

>>1616461
Make a site that you can get all sorts of information and resources about all types of machining. Then slap it with a section of calculators for everything. Make everything free to use though. Check out G-wizard and make it into a free to use website and it will be popular.

I always hate having to try and hunt down any information I use and I am not spending 50+ per year on a program that is basically a bunch of calculators

[Anonymous No.1616514]

>>1616507
>I don't really have a problem with missing steps
Does this mean that their PCNC machines previously did not have feedback? Jesus.

[Anonymous No.1616525]

>>1616514
Yeah, it's not easy to overpower the steppers though they are reasonably powerful. If you do the spindle motor isn't going to be strong enough to take the cut anyway.

It's a converted bed mill with a 1.5hp motor anon... It still makes parts.

No encoders, which was pretty common for cheap industrial mills too years ago, which is why they advertise rigid tapping on them if they have encoders on the major axes.

[Anonymous No.1616540]

>>1616476
Be good at coming up with solutions on the fly. For example, large diameter (relative to the entry hole) internal counterbore.

[Anonymous No.1616545]

>>1616476
Or this t-slot that is mostly cut with a regular tool (left of hole, in green) but then it needs to continue past that (right of hole, in red) but can't be machined with a t-slot cutter because it's blocked by another feature of the part (lug, in blue).

[Anonymous No.1616552]

>>1616476
>>1616545
Another angle.

[Anonymous No.1616566]

>>1616540
Tiny boring bore and attached cutter after you got it in?

[Anonymous No.1616592]

>>1616566
I grabbed an old drill bit with the same diameter as the finished counterbore. I then carefully ground it until it was a stem a few thou smaller than the entry hole. I then made new upside down cutting edges that allowed me to cut while pulling on the stem.

I spun it in reverse and pulled, it cut a little bit at a time, stopping to check the depth by measuring the portion of the stem sticking out of the entry hole. All in all, including making the tool and cutting with it, took about 20 minutes.

The t-slot "extension" was a two sided reverse-broach milled from an old HSS endmill. It enters the "hole" then cuts by pulling up, ramping out of the material. It's been making those slots in production for a few months now, still doing well.

[Anonymous No.1616627]

>>1616545
>>1616540
well if he's like me, it's all about the process of actually finding the people who want the work done.

take out an ad in the paper or what?

[Anonymous No.1616634]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49tFe9rVglM

Kind of want to CNC an aluminum phone case. Is the material they're talking about just snake oil or will a strip of natural rubber absorb impact as well?

[Anonymous No.1616652]

>>1616634
It's not rocket science, it's all about spreading the the impact energy over time, instead of transferring it all at once by stopping the phone on the spot.
But i don't know, their stuff look way too thin to be able to cushion falls from such heights. Not to mention that if you phone falls face down on uneven surface, like a rock, it will get fucked anyway and most damage to phones happens that way

[Anonymous No.1616657]

>>1616652
I intend to include a cover for the main screen of course. They just don't make things durable enough for someone that works for a living to throw it in their pocket and go to work. Shit will be fucked so they put them in their shirt pocket and then worry about it falling out every time they bend over.

[Anonymous No.1616659]

>>1616627
Call machine shops, see if they need anyone cool. I worked for various shops until I found an interesting one. You're more likely to find work like this in smaller shops especially if you have manual machining and CNC programming experience.

[Anonymous No.1616891]

>>1612513
What's a machinist job like?

[Anonymous No.1616892]

>>1616891
Depends how Jewish management is

[Anonymous No.1616893]

>>1616891
the boomers that got into the trade in the 80s were so lucky, it paid good, was semi-skilled labor and they got to make cool shit and play with cool tools.

Then over the years their pay stopped rising, hours got longer and they were worried about their jobs being outsourced. Today they sit around drinking beer on the weekend saying "yep, it paid good when we started..."

[Anonymous No.1616895]

>>1616893
I would wager that CNC machining is skilled labor though. I have learned a massive amount of shit in the 1 year or so since I bought a cnc mill. It's less mentally draining than programming, which is exactly why I love it--and randos can't just pick up cad/cam setups, fixturing etc. in a weekend either.

[Anonymous No.1616897]

>>1616893
Define 'good pay'. When I look at maching jobs near me, I can usually find places hiring for $30-50/hr. Unless you don't count using CNC as being a machinist.

[Anonymous No.1616898]

>>1616897
I am referring to tool & die guys actually. Even the metal stamping places have had a rough 20 years. They have the tool & die maintaining their presses.

I'm surprised boomers are retarded enough to let their livelihoods be outsourced for so long.

[Anonymous No.1616900]

>>1616897
CNC is fucking amazing. So amazing that you don't have to eat chips and smoke all day, instead you have enclosures and chip augers and water soluble coolant. CNC shops don't have to be dirty factories like manual stuff, probably a way better job.

[Anonymous No.1616903]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gd-UqQksN3I

>what is the difference between CNC and manual

About 30 horsepower.

[Anonymous No.1616915]

>>1616898
I heard that die making is all edm these days which is supposed to pay a lot

[Anonymous No.1616925]

>>1616903
>brainlet that's never seen heavy industry manuals
figures that you're a titan fag, enjoy your overhyped bullshit. None of their shit is interesting, it's just a dumbass shouting about stuff that actual machinists have been doing for years.

basically catering to the lowest possible hanging fruit i.e. you

[Anonymous No.1616929]

>tfw goig back to a bridgeport after getting used to cnc
>doesn't even have dro
I don't want to look at dials or use my coolant bottle someone save me

[Anonymous No.1616941]

>>1616925
I haven't been using CNC very long and there are things I can learn from Titan. He also has real industry experience, so fuck off.

So if I'm the low hanging fruit, does that mean you machine inconel and titanium regularly? Because his feeds and speeds for those are a big point of his training.

[Anonymous No.1616965]

>>1616929
back to writing out the primitive program manually for hole locations too

[Anonymous No.1616968]

>>1616941
speeds and feeds are basic bitch shit, nobody is impressed at a guy using brand new machines, brand new tooling, brand new cutting tools made specifically for that application, and being able to read the speed/feed charts handed to him by the tooling companies

he can yell like a pro wrestler all he wants and use flashy editing and dubstep, you can fuck off with that noise

[Anonymous No.1616975]

>>1616968
s&f with specific tools in specific alloys and machines?

nah

[Anonymous No.1616982]

>>1616968
It's worth considering that if you're using worn out POS machines from 30 years ago then the business you work for has crappy management or is a dying industry.

[Anonymous No.1616998]

>>1616982
for that matter, buying those cheap haas vertical machines might make it more economical to have a new machine earlier in the life cycle

[Anonymous No.1617030]

oh damn it's funny

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVaSo3ys1Tc

[Anonymous No.1617047]

>>1616968
The only thing I like from him is his video on pricing.

[Anonymous No.1617053]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5e_vhD0WmA

[Anonymous No.1617095]

Posting my favorite machine rabbi, Don't mind me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-ZN7UNKeks

[Anonymous No.1617122]

>>1617053
>tfw I do this all day everyday at work.

Its not so bad though.
Keeping your wheels dressed and making offsets and adjustments to compensate for wheel wear is pretty much the actual job. The software for making a custom manufactured tool is easy and will give you a perfect toolpath in a vacuum. Read a print, put it in, adjust the toolpath in a couple ways, then its up to you to deal with feeds and speeds, wear and collet runout and other real life stuff.
I dont work in a big shop, we do custom tooling. Youll do a run of 10 one off tools, then never see it again, or maybe see it a year later for another batch of 10.
The variety in work makes it very hard to dumb the process down, we dont just make hundreds of standard .750 endmills every week and throw them in an inventory.

For actually regrinding/resharpening random ass tools from other brands instead of ones you manufactured, you have to measure everything by hand to recreate it. I can see how reground tools could get a bad name. If you find a good shop that does good work a reground tool will rival a new tool in performance.
With that said ive fixed some tools that were ground in other shops, clearly done by someone absolutely fucking clueless.

Find a good regrind shop and itll save you copious amounts of money.

[Anonymous No.1617137]

>>1617122
Sweet. Helical does regrinds too, and I've been absolutely enamored with their end mills.

That one 20 thou corner radius one I've been shilling is still going strong after 150 parts and all kinds of 3d profiling.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sIhel64yUS4

[Anonymous No.1617248]

What is that white water cncs always ejaculate all over the part they are milling?

[Anonymous No.1617251]

>>1617248
Coolant. It's oil mixed with some emulsifiers to make it water soluble and it gets mixed roughly 9-1 water/oil. There's a lot more chemistry for modern stuff but that's basically what it is.

[Anonymous No.1617254]

>>1617122
Curious question.
Is your grinding shop full of grinding dust?

[Anonymous No.1617266]

>>1617254
Nah, all of the CNCs run flood coolant. The coolant is pumped through a chiller and filtration system, and we use mist extractors on the machine so you dont even breath much mist when opening the machine.

We have a few manual grinding machines, most run coolant still. Anything without coolant like a pedestal grinder or a surface grinder all have dedicated air scrubbers.

The carbide swarf is just a goop, you can see it when you change filters. The coolant really controls it. HSS swarf is kind of stringy, but we dont make a lot of HSS. Still is caught in the filters.
Ive been to a few shops, you walk in and everything is caked in black dust. Luckily our shop is relatively clean, you dont go home and blow black shit out of your nose.

[Anonymous No.1617330]

grinding the jaws on a 6-jaw might be hard

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aawyX4cATDs

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1617582]

Why is drilling metal at 3:30am so rewarding?

[Anonymous No.1617629]

tl;dr I wanna do some light machining work in my house but I can only use hand tools. Besides a metal hacksaw, a tap and die set, and metal files/chisels what else do I need?

For context I'm already welding and forming sheet metal together but I mostly use scissors and wing nuts. The point of machining would allow me to use thicker materials like bar stock instead of having to use sheetmetal for everything.

[Anonymous No.1617633]

>>1617330
Gear and scroll is already fucked from poor manufacturing and rust.
It's almost looks like they cut the gear on a shaper.

>>1617629
get a drill press
>but I can only use hand tools
I don't think you can achieve much with hand tools working with thicker bar.

[Anonymous No.1617645]

>>1617633

>I don't think you can achieve much with hand tools working with thicker bar.

I can cut off pieces of bar stock, cut holes, and thread them. It's work but the results function as intended. My main issue is making channels (like something another bar would slide into) which I am currently making using files, do metal hand planes exist?

[Anonymous No.1617646]

>>1617645
>do metal hand planes exist?
They do, but they're not any faster.

[Anonymous No.1617656]

>>1617646

don't care, I'm worried more about cramps/ergonomics. Got a link?

[Anonymous No.1617657]

>>1617656
They're called scrapers, have hardened steel or carbide at the end of a long straight rod. They're not really for making shapes as such, more for scraping things flat.

[Anonymous No.1617659]

>>1617657

thanks

[Anonymous No.1617668]

>>1617645
how do you make holes?

[Anonymous No.1617674]

>>1617668

power drill

note: I also have a jigsaw but I do much tighter work with a hacksaw, sometimes I rough it out but usually not

[Anonymous No.1617677]

>>1617674
That's a brace not a drill

[Anonymous No.1617746]

hey frens, how do you call that tool that makes the lines into say a metal so you can screw something like an M5 screw in there

[Anonymous No.1617787]

>>1617746
A "tap"

[Anonymous No.1617796]

>>1617629
articulating vise w/ soft jaws

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1617798]

>>1617787
I don’t think he’s talking about plumbing. He’s talking about a screw hole maker.

[Anonymous No.1617801]

>>1617798
oh in that case definitely a thread mill

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1617805]

>>1617801
Yeah a miller lite, that thing.

[Anonymous No.1617881]

What's the difference between 208v and 230v single phase AC? Why would I want one over the other?


https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/Schulz-932.9340-0-Air-Compressor/p13712.html

https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/Schulz-932.9340-230-Air-Compressor/p13713.html

[Anonymous No.1617882]

>>1617881
3-phase*

[Anonymous No.1617891]

>>1617881
>>1617882
Question
What is the difference between 208, 220, 230, and 240 VAC systems?

Answer
In NA, the terms 220V, 230V, and 240V all refer to the same system voltage level. However, 208V refers to a different system voltage level.

In NA the utility companies are required to deliver split phase 240VAC for residential use. That is two 120VAC (+/- 5 %) legs. With electrical loads, the voltage will drop, hence the common reference to voltages below 120 and 240, such as 110, 115, 220, and 230. Very Important: when the drive is hooked up for single phase operation (it is a slight misnomer) L1 has a 120VAC hot and L3 has a 120VAC hot (of opposite polarity), for a total of 240VAC. The manual states that a neutral is used. However, the neutral is only used with European single phase 220 on a single leg.

The 208VAC system is not the same as 240VAC. It uses a �Y� style transformer with a neutral, and will yield 208VAC between two phases and 120VAC from hot to neutral.

We do not recommend using a corner grounded or midpoint tap grounded �delta� secondary style transformer. The phases are not all balanced; one phase is always tied to ground. The voltage mismatch can negatively infulence the drive's performance.

https://support.automationdirect.com/faq/showfaq.php?id=834

[Anonymous No.1617895]

>>1617891
tyvm

[Anonymous No.1617905]

Is there any reason not to buy this air compressor?

https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/Schulz-580VL20X-1-Air-Compressor/p13459.html

[Anonymous No.1617910]

>>1617905
think I'm gonna wait and see if there is a memorial day deal on it

[Anonymous No.1617965]

buy a brand new 9 x 20 Grizzly or get a possibly clapped out Atlas or Southbend from the 50's?

[Anonymous No.1617968]

How do I get a better surface finish on 3d profiling parallel passes?

[Anonymous No.1617977]

>>1617905
Well, that cfm rating is typical dealership bullshit. Your probably going to get more like 4cfm.
The way they rate those is utterly horse shit. They rate it at the intake. If you really need 20 cfm your going to spend about 4 or 5 grand.

[Anonymous No.1617981]

>>1617977
You always want to purchase based off acfm. What you typically see advertised is fucking horse shit scfm. This is perfectly legal in America,not so everywhere tho

What r u trying to do with it.

[Anonymous No.1617999]

>>1617977
>>1617981
the ratings are CFM not SCFM

it's a two-stage 5hp air compressor coming in at around $2k shipped, to run some cnc machines and mister coolant stuff

[Anonymous No.1618022]

>>1617999
Yep that's what they want u to think. Read every piece of literature available. Somewhere in there in little bitty words will be a string of bullshit.

Saying that these readings are in cfm. Is looking like saying some is 5 long. It doesn't say it's an A meauserment, is also doesn't say it's an S measurements.

If you buy this expecting 20 you will be disappointed.

[Anonymous No.1618023]

>>1617965
get a brand new lathe

[Anonymous No.1618025]

>>1617965
Not a Grizzly. Those are garbage. precision matthews perhaps, but still no.

Get a milling machine instead too.

[Anonymous No.1618026]

>>1617798
>Taps are plumbing specific
Are you literally fucking retarded?

[Anonymous No.1618028]

Holy fuck auto correct raped my last post.

It specifies CFM. What you need to know is ACFM. When you say it says CFM that's could mean ACFM or SCFM. I gauarantee it is referring to SCFM. You will be drastically underpowered if you need all 20.

[Anonymous No.1618029]

>>1618026
he was joking anon, clearly

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1618033]

>>1618026
>tap water
I mean that’s typically a plumbing thing. You don’t call an electrician to fix a leaky tap.

[Anonymous No.1618044]

>>1617965
the college I was at got a grizzly 14x40 earlier this year and it's already feeling worn out.

[Anonymous No.1618057]

>>1618026
>Are you literally fucking retarded?

He is trying to make a funny in a thread he doesnt belong in.

[Anonymous No.1618089]

>>1618025
>>1618044

I've been scraping a lot of the Australian equivalent to the Grizzly brand machines (same machines just different rebadge)

Most of the parts are warped to all fuck from brand new and have piss poor contact so they wear like shit because all the contact is localized in those High spots at the far extremities. (ground cast iron on ground cast iron also leaves no room for oil) you'll also notice the wear will generally be located beneath the Toolpost on any lathe as the cutting forces cause the saddle tip and bear down in that section.

my 2 cents is that its easier rebuilding a worn quality machine than rebuilding a brand new POS ching chong machine. also I've seen more wear after 5ish years of use on chink machines than I have on some machines 50+ years old that were properly scraped and well looked after

[Anonymous No.1618105]

>>1618089
>>1618044
pic above is my grizzly saddle v-way, notice the wear at the end there and no where else?

>>1618025

[Anonymous No.1618107]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABtsuglGrMY

HSM

[Anonymous No.1618113]

>>1618107
I like hsmworks, I wish it had more tutorials and support

[Anonymous No.1618117]

>>1618105
The rough as guts machining alone makes me cringe. scraping those V ways is also a cunt because one side can easily be push scraped but the other is against the ledge so you have to pull scrape it and all I have are some hand forged O1 pull scrapers which I am really struggling to use.

[Anonymous No.1618122]

>>1618117
It's small enough for me to grind, which I am working on. I fucked up because I got impatient and didn't fix my sine plate before using it. Now the V way is all out of whack so I'm making a gage to fit down in the V-way with a square face for indicating. A triangular parallel/square of sorts.

Naturally I picked a fucked up piece with a hole through it and it keeps wanting to turn into a banana every time I grind it. Will definitely get 'er eventually though.

[Anonymous No.1618123]

>>1612513
test

[Anonymous No.1618176]

>>1618122
>Naturally I picked a fucked up piece with a hole through it and it keeps wanting to turn into a banana every time I grind it. Will definitely get 'er eventually though.

I hate that. I had some pieces of steel i scraped to flat like 20 times. Everytime i came back in the shop a week later to finish them they were all warped and twisted to shit. I wish there was a kind of absolutely stable metal.

[Anonymous No.1618177]

You have a hollow threaded metal rod (thread on outside), diameter 2 cm, and you need to secure a thinner metal rod (diameter 3mm) on the inside of this hollow rod, so that it is centered, any idea how i can approach this? i have no fancy cncs and lathes

[Anonymous No.1618183]

>>1618177
find short round piece smaller diameter than big pipe ID, drill hole through middle of it and jam it in there, or drill and tap 3-4 screw holes through the OD of the threaded pipe into the "plug".

to drill a hole in the center of the small round piece, drill a hole big enough for it to fit into first, then without moving the drill press table, switch to the smaller drill bit size and drill the hole through the plug with the plug sitting in the bigger drilled hole, should be concentric then

[Anonymous No.1618227]

Damn you guys have to check out Rob Renzetti's instagram, he made a cast iron lap to lap down the diameter of a reamer (turning a slip fit reamer into a press fit reamer).

[Anonymous No.1618229]

>>1618227
>leaves a better finish than factory
>and you can hit any size you want

[piled corn !stuUhkKwfw No.1618232]

>>1618177

two tapered bushings on each end of the smaller tube

drill and thread 6 holes total, 3 on each end of the larger tube to accept a set screw. tighten screws onto smaller tube to adjust position

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1618285]

>>1618057
I got one on the line though. Also he may be right about the retarded thing... I’m not even sure anymore.

[Anonymous No.1618365]

Do I need a magnetic starter on this 230V AC air compressor?

[Anonymous No.1618370]

>>1618176
Aged cast iron?

[Anonymous No.1618382]

>>1618176
granite?

[Anonymous No.1618433]

>>1617905
So you buying or what?

[Anonymous No.1618458]

>>1612513
how do you care for a surface plate

>Have a surface plate
>sign OIL WEEKLY
in my company the plate gets lubed with a heavy oil, the same they use for tapping and threading
after a while the oil gets sticky and dirty so someone applies new oil "to make the gauges slide better"

i think that's wrong because the oil attracts dust and will shorten the life of the equipment
you get oily hands and greasy clothes if you look at it wrong.

i think it has been done that way since the beginning of time and was just continued.

>has anyone of you a link for a reputable source on how to take care of the plate.
i only found company´s like starret selling special plate cleaner.
a source saying don't oil would be best.

>how would you clean the plate
WD40, Break cleaner, De-greaser?

[Anonymous No.1618460]

>>1618433
bought a Quincy QT54 instead

[Anonymous No.1618462]

>>1618458
>google "surface plate maintenance"
>million results, videos
>first result already says it just needs to be clean, clean of oil among other things

[Anonymous No.1618463]

>>1618458
what the fuck who would oil a fucking surface plate?

clean it with ammonia + water mixture like everyone else, or perhaps alcohol

[Anonymous No.1618464]

>>1618462
basedgoogleposter

[Anonymous No.1618469]

>>1618458
it wasn't a cast iron surface plate was it?

[Anonymous No.1618478]

>>1618460
quincy's are good, we use them at work. We have 5120 models. we use them with monolec oil for use with breathing air systems. They are still piston compressors and require a duty cycle, even when rated at 100%. The wording can get tricky. I hope it provides enough air for you. An enlarged oil reservoir will help,

Really the only true 100% duty cycle never shut down compressor style is a rotary screw. They are fucking pricey but when you need air that just wont quit thats the way to go. Either that or get an over sized piston compressor.

Quincy has a really good return policy. When you first get it you should try and burn it up, run that mother fucker for like 8 hours straight full throttle, if it does what you need, keep it. If it burns up they will take it back.

[Anonymous No.1618486]

>>1618478
i plan to start using it for a spray mist coolant system, so it will get ran pretty hard after break-in.

[Anonymous No.1618520]

Can somebody tell me what this arm on the blue shaft is called? Also, how does he affix the two orange gears together so that when it pushes one, it pulls the other?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=11&v=ap7WwwVzIAE

[Anonymous No.1618539]

>>1613277

1" perfect square within .0005

[Anonymous No.1618544]

>>1618539
too late i'm making a pair of sunglasses

working on the softjaws now

[Anonymous No.1618545]

>>1618544
>tfw cnc machine humming away while I'm inside in the cool air

[Anonymous No.1618579]

>>1618089
What do you think of those square box ways like the Kitamura machines have?

Would you prefer that type over the linear rail variety? I know the box ways are supposed to be more rigid, but who cares when you can just replace the linear rails in 20 years.

[Anonymous No.1618619]

>>1618370
It's probably the closest you can get. The only form of cast iron i can get is some stuff like durabar and quite expensive though. Also it still can move a lot. I will probably build a heat treat oven in the future to help things a bit.

>>1618382
Granite should be very stable yes but i can't imagine that "scraping" that could be anywhere near to fun.

[Anonymous No.1618635]

>>1618579
>I know the box ways are supposed to be more rigid, but who cares when you can just replace the linear rails in 20 years.

Depends on the application. For some things you need all the rigidity you can get. Box ways will always have higher dampening but also more slip stick. You can get box ways with cylindrical rollers and you could also bolt on box ways like linear ways. I guess unless you have a very specific application there is no overall winner. Else we wouldn't have a lot of manufacturers selling both options.

[Anonymous No.1618641]

>>1618545
that's a ton of fucking stock to remove.

[Anonymous No.1618679]

>>1618641
yeah just what I had on hand, first iteration softjaws the part pulled out on me too.

now the clamping force is going into the thick part between the lens holes, the "web" or whatever

[Anonymous No.1618791]

>>1618619
you don't have to scrape granite you can just rub another piece of granite on it

[Anonymous No.1618842]

>>1618520
probably screw them together, it would wedge that blue part in between

[Anonymous No.1618902]

>>1618791
That's great! Scraping goes way too fast for my taste anyway :D

[Anonymous No.1618918]

Pierson has a new robot to play with: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E05GSshnMOM

[Anonymous No.1618924]

>4 x 12 hour shifts polishing tooling
I just want to fucking die lads, when will this pain end?

[Anonymous No.1618926]

>>1618579
Honestly on some of those larger CNC's the most you'll be doing in 20 years in terms of the ways is reapplying and scraping the Turcite if they've had a hellish life. I have very little experience with machines that use linear rails but I assume they'd be superior for High feed machining the Haas guys always go on about and if you're doing mostly High volume ally parts they'd be the superior choice. always makes me giggle watching these Modern VMCs dance around like crazy with small DOC's spraying chips everywhere when a stout Horizontal mill could take the cut in one pass

>>1618458
a granite plate should be kept clean and have a cover on when not in use, oil just picks up abrasives in the air. a cast iron plate on the other hand only needs a very fine film of oil that wont feel wet to the touch. I store all my scraped cast iron camelbacks and spotting tools covered in blue and glad wrapped or in waxed paper .

>>1618176
Scraping steel is a nightmare in itself, cast iron which is the only thing you should ever realistically want to be scraping is pretty stable assuming you're scraping it at room temperature and not at various different temperatures at different times. a different myford bed to the one I posted previously demonstrated this pretty well, my mate drove about an hour and a half to get to my shop with it soating up heat in the back of his ute and when it spotted up it was only touching at the far ends (it was pretty warm to the touch) leaving it on the plate for another hour let it normalize back to room temperature and it spotted up more or less identically to the last time he was here

[Anonymous No.1618930]

>>1618926
>always makes me giggle watching these Modern VMCs dance around like crazy with small DOC's spraying chips everywhere when a stout Horizontal mill could take the cut in one pass

You get better tool life doing it the high feed style, generates less heat and less tool pressure doing High Efficiency Milling (HEM).

https://www.harveyperformance.com/in-the-loupe/intro-high-efficiency-milling/

[Anonymous No.1618931]

>>1618930

[Anonymous No.1619030]

>>1618931
>Not doing full RDOC and ADOC

[Anonymous No.1619118]

>>1618924
When you do 6x12 hr shifts. Your mind will become robotic at that point. Then they'll install your mind into the machine and then your metamorphosis will be complete

[Anonymous No.1619161]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wi4vaOTWYOo

>mfw AVE uses low helix in Aluminum

[Anonymous No.1619664]

>>1619161
uncle leaf strikes again.
not as embarrassing as that time where he lathed out a collet puller inside a collet nut.

[Anonymous No.1619689]

>>1619664
lol yeah

[Anonymous No.1619765]

>>1618926
I don't mind scraping steel but the digging and little needles kind of suck yes.

Might try video related some day:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FgxjiEBhKvM

Steel is so much cheaper and easier to get so it's worth to look into for me. Cast iron often costs around 10€/kg in small quantities.

[Anonymous No.1619779]

>>1619765
sweet, with that geometry you can just use carbide or ceramic inserts

[Anonymous No.1619883]

Haas low cost machine strategy paying off big-time:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3K3GFKp1FGs

[Anonymous No.1619980]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2_0V58ocq4

[Anonymous No.1620159]

New thread

>>1620158