/3DPG/

[Anonymous No.1609372]

"with a little knowledge and foreskin" Edition

Old thread: >>1605319

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy

>Need help with prints? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 7-1-2019]
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free:
https://www.blender.org/
https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/

[Anonymous No.1609435]

Man, I really should have swept the cat hair off of that desk before I took the picture.

[Anonymous No.1609464]

>>1609408
>>1609248
Anyone?

[Anonymous No.1609517]

Anyone got a link to the fat crying cat model?

[Anonymous No.1609519]

What cad should i use? Im just jumpen into linux sincr win 10 was literally melting my pc

[Anonymous No.1609521]

>>1609519
For functional parts, any sketch based parametric modeling software. Dumb solids a shit.

[Anonymous No.1609572]

>>1609519
>what cad
depends on your problem/model and personal preference

[Anonymous No.1609577]

>>1609572
Anon, even AutoCAD is better than making your models in CAM software...

[Anonymous No.1609581]

>>1609577
pretty sure that's openscad

[Anonymous No.1609582]

>>1609581
acually its openSCAT because its SHIT

[Anonymous No.1609583]

>>1609577
>CAM
That's OpenSCAD, I prefer it for parametric modeling. Well, but I use several programs.
I had to use AutoCAD for some years, never again. Inventor is good though, but both are expensive.

[Anonymous No.1609584]

>>1609581
I'm legitimately horrified that this was designed from the ground up to be CAD software.

[Anonymous No.1609585]

>>1609583
I would still choose AutoCAD 100% of the time over hand drafting. If you're only doing 2D work, it's pretty fucking fast. Just keep your right hand on the mouse and type commands with your left hand.
Inventor is a little clunkier for making parts than SolidWorks, but I do like the assembly shit in it better. I really need to learn Fusion360, though.

[Anonymous No.1609591]

>>1609585
>I would still choose AutoCAD 100% of the time
Your opinion is literally worthless then. SolidWorks is the market-leading software suite for a reason.

[Anonymous No.1609592]

>>1609591
Are you really incapable of holding three more fucking words than that in your mind?

[Anonymous No.1609711]

>>1609591
Pretty sure autodesk beats out solidworks.

And if it doesnt Im willing to bet its solely because schools use solidworks for some godawful reason. I used Autodesk for years and then took a class for Solidworks, fucking solidworks makes shit so difficult sometimes, get random errors trying to do the simplest shit.

[Anonymous No.1609713]

>>1609711
The opposite. Autodesk is only popular because they used to be the only option students could afford, so universities were churning out thousands of people who only understood AutoCAD to an industry that preferred solidworks. Having used both, I can't stand autoCAD but love solidworks to bits. I think it's just that I was raised on solidworks while you were raised on autocad, if we spent a decade with the other's suite we'd probably change our minds.

[Anonymous No.1609714]

>>1609713
Not the guy you're responding to, but my school taught us hand drafting, AutoCAD, SW and Inventor, in that order.
What I find is that most people who don't like SW don't use stuff like the contextual menu (where you hold the RMB and drag in a direction). If you know all those little shortcuts, you can churn out drawings really fucking fast.

[Anonymous No.1609723]

>>1609714
>>1609713
Like I said, the thing that made me hate Solidworks was getting errors trying to do the simplest shit. Want to make a sphere in F360, make half a circle and rotate. Want to make a sphere in SW, make a half circle, try to rotate, get a stupid error, and then go through 6 extra steps to get it done. As far as I learned in a whole semester with that software the only thing I liked was the drafting mode that let you build whole constructions from individual parts then make a detail drawing from them and the individual parts.

[Anonymous No.1609724]

The person who is fluent in one software beats out the 4chin designer.

[Anonymous No.1609726]

>>1609723
There are definitely some quirks to it, but that's true of any software.
I like how in SW you can easily reference geometry within a part without having to convert entity on the sketch.

[Anonymous No.1609733]

>>1609372
>Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
>Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
>Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
>Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
Are the differences significant?

[Anonymous No.1609737]

>>1609733
The Ender 3 and CR-10 are practically the same printer, only major difference is build area. The Prusa, despite all the salty comments in the thread, is the leader of innovation, while its true you can achieve similar print quality with cheaper printers part of the price goes towards Prusa research, and another part is just all the random QoL stuff they come with.

The Lulzbot and Ultimajer are by far the biggest differences to the cheaper ones. Both are practically plug and play straight out of the box. Meaning you plug it in, go through the setup steps, and youll likely have near perfect if not flawless prints from the very first attempt. Both also come with professional support, warranties/extended warranties.

[Anonymous No.1609772]

>>1609733
Prusa is basically the Apple of 3D printers. You're basically paying for the support. https://pastebin.com/jYCv1Rri

[Anonymous No.1609788]

>>1609772
>the Apple of 3D printers.
Nah, that would be Makerbot.

[Anonymous No.1609805]

>>1609772

That anti-prusa pastebin has such a sad and hateful tone to it, you can tell it was written by an Ender fanboy trying to defend the honor of their preferred brand. The only thing Prusa has in common with Apple is that their shit is more expensive than it should be. With everything else they're pretty much the opposite, open-sourcing all of their designs and software for everyone to use, you're free and even encouraged to repair or modify them any way you like, they try to keep manufacturing local etc. I've been more annoyed by Ender users acting smug about how much bucks they saved than any "Prusa just werks" comments.

>>1609733

The capability of FDM printers doesn't scale with the price you pay for them, even the cheapest ones now cover almost anything you'd need from one. Quick-swap hotends, Cura profiles, NFC-tagged filament and sleek lighting of the Ultimaker are a great convenience but they're not worth the extra 1000$+ The interesting stuff like IDEX, tool changers, 3D scanners, carbon/kevlar fibre strand embedding, CNC mill capabilities etc. are only found on machines beyond 2000$ and that's an entirely different market.

[Anonymous No.1609809]

Curious what you guys think the best way to measure something like this out would be? I've already done a manual sketch out by hand in fusion, but I feel there is a much better way to do this.

[Anonymous No.1609827]

>>1609809
just use a caliper

[Anonymous No.1609830]

>>1609827
I have a digital caliper, I meant for the angles, because they are so long. I've not been able to figure out an easy way to calculate those sorts of things without a gauge, and I'm not looking to spend 300-400 dollars on one.

[Anonymous No.1609831]

>>1609805
meh, apple open sources many things, what do you think your web browser is based on

[Anonymous No.1609835]

>>1609809
Put it on a flatbed scanner with a ruler next to it. Insert attached canvas in Fusion 360 and calibrate it.

[Anonymous No.1609837]

>>1609835
I already created it by hand iserting the image and calibrating it then drawing it out piece by piece. I had just hoped there was an easier way so I could make it more detailed instead of squighly.

[Anonymous No.1609839]

>>1609831
KHTML

[Anonymous No.1609851]

>>1609831

The Gecko engine? Nice try though, it's true Apple does open-source stuff every now and then (most notably OpenCL from what i've used) but those projects are more of a footnote instead of their main way of doing business. If they released the schematics for their iphones or macbooks i'd be impressed.

[Anonymous No.1609854]

>>1609851
>>1609839
>>1609831
Do try to stay on topic, please.

[Anonymous No.1609895]

>>1609585
>I like the assembly shit in (Inventor) better
Really? Last version of SW I used was 2012 but I remember liking it more than Inventor 2019. Don't remember why, I think there was less futzing around.

Fusion 360 is great and there are some nice QoL features that are missing from Inventor in it, but it for some reason has mixed hotkeys - you can make circles and rectangles with C and R now, but you can no longer hit '=' for equal constraints, etc.; assemblies are a right pain in the ass in it, though.

[Anonymous No.1609898]

>>1609895
For static assemblies SW is fine, but when you have moving parts it becomes a clusterfuck right quick.

[Anonymous No.1609902]

>>1609830
>>1609809
Print an insert so you have a horizontal reference plane, measure at discrete points, average/extrapolate to get a triangle (or curve), and get the angles from there

[Anonymous No.1609991]

>>1609772
>>1609788
Ultimaker is the Apple of 3D-printers, they even try to get the same aesthetic.

[Anonymous No.1609992]

Trying to connect/align this rectangle outer support to the cylinder. Align didn't work and I'm not quite sure what feature I would be looking for. I need to align it and then have it rotated around the outside to create 7 spaced supports.

[Anonymous No.1609998]

>>1609992
Constrain the closest edge of the rectangle to the inner underside edge of the cylinder, then use circle pattern to make more.

[Anonymous No.1610000]

>>1609992
Hit P to Project features when you're in a sketch, might help with snapping/alignment.

[Anonymous No.1610005]

>>1609998
Won't let me place a constraint on them. Would this be because the cylinder was created with loft?

The only thing it will let me constrain to is the center of either the top or the bottom circle. I was hoping it would be as easy as constraining the top to the top of the outer and the bottom to the outer, but it won't let me do that.

[Anonymous No.1610010]

>>1610005
Only other thing I can come up with is to make an offset plane aligned with the flat surface of the brim but offset to the face of the cylinder, then recreate the support structure on said plane extruding outwards whatever distance.

Then circle pattern.

[Anonymous No.1610011]

>>1610005
>>1610010
Or maybe were both retarded.

Why dont you just make a sketch on the bottom of that brim with that support and extrude it down?

[Anonymous No.1610013]

>>1610010
>>1610011
I ended up just removing the default constraints and angling it by hand a bit and then press/pulled it to the object. Worked out well enough. Thank you both for giving me some ideas though for future us.

[Anonymous No.1610015]

>>1610013
I thought you were trying to make supports for a print, not some sort of rib. An offset plane wouldve worked I think.

[Anonymous No.1610021]

>>1610015
Oh, yea they are outer ribs so I don't have to make a large print surface, just what I need for 6 ribs I'm going to try cutting this in half and having two separate easy to assemble and print halves.

[Anonymous No.1610032]

Awesome, learned quite a lot off this little project alone. Also going to be my first multi piece print. It's just a simple cup holder for my car modified to fit in the larger holder that is pretty much worthless for any actual drinks.

[Anonymous No.1610036]

>>1609464
Switching materials on the stock mk8 hotend can be quite tricky because residual filament tends to build up between the nozzle and ptfe tube. Clean your hotend. Make sure the nozzle is properly tightened against the ptfe tube. If this doesn't work you may have to adjust the spring tension on the extruder.

[Anonymous No.1610088]

>>1610032
>American size
Oof

[Anonymous No.1610102]

>>1610036
Definitely clean the hot end. I followed the video on youtube( the one with the dungeon I think.) And a small residual tube of charred plastic came out and that fixed under extrusion problems I was having; the was no proper layer adhesion and the prints came out hairy.
One thing the guy didn't say to do is to slip in some filament into the cold ptfe tube to clear it before reinserting it back.

[Anonymous No.1610104]

>>1610102
Just to be clear I mean clear the tube like a bore snake and remove the filament

[Anonymous No.1610173]

How well does original gorilla glue work for PLA? I'm hunting videos but not finding much, Trying to see what I should pick up to bond these parts as it came out well. Though the next design I think I'll add some locking pieces to the top and bottom so they slide into place much easier.

[Anonymous No.1610183]

>>1610102
>hot end dungeon
wat

[Anonymous No.1610185]

>>1610088
Honestly not a bad idea. The cup holder in my car was obviously designed for something like a 2l soda bottle, because even a large soda cup from a burger restaurant has more than enough room to tip over. It's ridiculous.

[Anonymous No.1610257]

>>1610185
Most are designed big and come with a rubber drop in similar in style to what anon is printing. It's nice because I can fit regular cups and most large cups have a tapered. Bottom for it, if a have a weird cup or a Gatorade I can pull out the insert. Also allows me to throw them in the dishes when they're dirty

[Anonymous No.1610259]

>>1610257
I've never seen that. My girlfriend's car has a decent solution though, the cup holder has a sort of lip that pushes the cup against the back of the holder. You need to use a little force to put the cup down, but it stays put even when you forget to brake before a corner.

[Anonymous No.1610260]

>>1610185
My car also has silly big cup holders, but I found a type of bottle that fits perfectly.
.5l sodastream bottles. Which is convenient, because I love their cola light and their energy drink.

[Anonymous No.1610267]

>>1609809
Photogrammetry/photo scan. Place it on a non reflective patterned surface with a rectangular reference object and take pictures all around it. Import pictures into meshroom (free software), generate the mesh and import it into meshmixer. Create a rectangular block with dimensions that match your reference object and then scale/transform the mesh until the reference object scan matches the block you created. From there edit out the parts of the mesh that you don't need and use the 'make solid' command to create a 3d printable model.

It's a bit tricky to get the hang of at first and you should youtube some tutorials, but holy fuck is it a powerful tool.

[Anonymous No.1610282]

I updated my stepper, calibrated my extrusion and was under extruding by 7mm, i have to say the difference was pretty huge in the print quality. when i did m503 the stepper was at 95.00 and updated with new one after calibrating. my question is, why do i have to adjust it now? what changed? I'm guessing i have to calibrate every so often.

[Anonymous No.1610284]

>>1610282
A lot of printers aren't well calibrated out the gate, and it can be a number of factors that affect it

[Anonymous No.1610287]

Question: Sometimes when I want to print things that have flat surfaces, easy stuff, the nozzle rubs across the part, is that because it's under extruding or over extruding? When I bed level I level it the same way I have seen people do it on youtube, for example a piece of paper just barely touching the nozzle so I don't think it's the bed.

[Anonymous No.1610289]

>>1610287
Could be from coasting

[Anonymous No.1610290]

>>1610284

I see. It was easy enough where I could do it every so often now that I know how to do it.

[Anonymous No.1610291]

>>1610289

Is that a setting? I use cura.

[Anonymous No.1610367]

>>1610287
How stiff is the bed? If it wobbles while changing direction, that can be enough for the nozzle to just barely hit the part.

[Anonymous No.1610370]

>>1610367

fixing this now, it was stiff but i guess not stiff enough. pretty sure it will solve the problem thank you.

i pretty much have this printer running flawlessly now with octoprint. it's beautiful.

[Anonymous No.1610373]

>>1610370
Hope that works, Anon.
As a side note, are there any printers on the market that use ballscrews?

[Anonymous No.1610374]

>>1610373
I don't think so. Threaded rods and lead screws are common for the Z axis, but you usually don't want to use them for the X and Y since those require much quicker movements and are a lot jerkier.

[Anonymous No.1610375]

>>1610374
I mean, ballscrews are what are used in mills and lathes, since there's far less backlash...

[Anonymous No.1610381]

what im printing currently

[Anonymous No.1610382]

I dunno man I like the ender 3 so much I might just buy the version with bigger bed and print 1:1 stuff. ill have to slice them in meshmixer but still, that print volume.

[Anonymous No.1610388]

>>1610375
Mills and lathes also generally move a lot slower than 3D printers, and the ones that move fast cost factors of 10 or 100 more than a 3D printer.

[Anonymous No.1610398]

I have to replace the hotend for my Ender-3 as the brass nozzle refuses to disengage and the insulation is looking pretty banged up, any suggestions on what to get to replace it? Do I just bite the bullet and by a Micro Swiss hotend?

[Anonymous No.1610410]

>>1610398
Did you heat up the hotend before you tried to remove the nozzle?

[Anonymous No.1610419]

>>1610410
I did indeed. My little wrench just slips and has now chewed up the nozzle a tad.

[Anonymous No.1610421]

>>1610419
Should've used a socket wrench to be honest.

All metal hotends are kinda a waste of money unless you actually plan to print shit like nylon. They can suffer from heat creep rather easily and require a different tune to continue using PLA. Id recommend trying a socket wrench and a good pear of vice-grip pliers, on top of just replacing the insulation before trying to completely replace the hotend.

[Anonymous No.1610426]

>>1610421
Fair enough, is there a particular sort of insulation I should get? I have a little silicone sock thing from other purchases, but it's for a slightly taller cartridge so it has a lot of space above it.

[Anonymous No.1610428]

does anyone know of a store that sells quality pla stuff locally and not online? kind of tired of buying from amazon and wanna actually go out and buy filament but the crap they sell at frys is a joke.

[Anonymous No.1610429]

>>1610426
Look up "heating block cotton" on amazon, buy one of the ones that comes with kapton tape so you can secure it with something heat proof.

[Anonymous No.1610452]

Why does Hatchbox no longer stock purple PLA or ABS, any idea? The shade they have is my favorite, but they haven't sold any for *three years* and it sucks. I'm running low on the very last of my supply and I really hoped more would show up, but looks like it won't. Any good alternatives?

[Anonymous No.1610465]

>>1610102
Extrude 100mm of plastic at your preferred printing speed and check the extruder gear. Mark the idler with a dot and watch it. If it slows down or even stops during the extrusion you either have a partial clog or you might have to adjust the extruder spring

[Anonymous No.1610507]

>>1610421
If you are printing PETG it's a good idea because PTFE starts to degrade at around 250 degrees.

[Anonymous No.1610509]

>>1610185
>The cup holder in my car was obviously designed for something like a 2l soda bottle
Hahahaha are Americans really this fat?

[Anonymous No.1610513]

>>1610173
Dunno never tried it, any superglue should work though so long as you aren't putting force on it. Or you can friction weld it.
>>1609992
Why didn't you extrude it with the rib profiles?

[Anonymous No.1610514]

>>1609772
>>1609805
Don't hate on Apple, I do my designs on an iMac, renderings are beautiful on the 5k screen

[Anonymous No.1610518]

3 down, 9 to go. Is there anything I can do to make the supports easier to remove? They are really ruining the bottom side of the blades which need to be smooth and aerodynamic.

[Anonymous No.1610519]

>>1610513
>rib profiles
There's an option for that? I'll need to look into it, and I ended up using plastic weld 2 part I had for other car stuff. Worked fantastic. Also picked up some locktite super glue for smaller parts I'm fiddling with.

[Anonymous No.1610520]

>>1610509
>uses litres
>anon calls him amerifat

[Anonymous No.1610525]

>>1610519
No I meant drawing it in 2D with the rib profiles sticking out of the circle and extruding this sketch
>>1610520
When you hear things like this you always assume they're American.

[Anonymous No.1610535]

>>1610525
Oh no, I see what you mean. Yea that would have been a much easier solution. It had been a while since I've draw anything up but yea. Doing that on the top and bottom and then doing the loft would have been it much easier. I don't have the software up right now, but for a drawing can I use something like the array commands so I could set it up around it?

[Anonymous No.1610537]

>>1610428
>quality pla locally
nope

[Anonymous No.1610538]

>>1610173
>How well does original gorilla glue work for PLA?
Super glue works really well. Especially the GEL super glue.

[Anonymous No.1610544]

>>1610388
Yes, because the parts weigh a fuckton more in order to deal to be stiff enough to not deflect like mad when cutting into a part. The point is that with ballscrews you could make a printer move faster than it currently can without your print quality taking a nosedive.

[Anonymous No.1610546]

>>1610535
Yeah.

[Anonymous No.1610555]

>>1610525
To be honest, all cars are made the same these days. Americans stopped making American cars decades ago, now all cars are either based on the old fancy Euro cars, like BMW or Mercedes, or are mixes of cheap Euro designs and Asian stuff, like Hyundai or Fiat. Ford bought Volvo and suddenly the only difference between the two brands was the badge, it wasn't a coincidence.

[Anonymous No.1610557]

>>1610555
Fiat actually sells a modified MX5...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W-YcpWYAido

[Anonymous No.1610569]

>>1610518
You can try messing with the support interface option in Cura, if dialed in properly you can peel off the suppport in one sheet if you have a smooth surface. It's kinda tricky to get right though and you mileage may vary, but it looks like your geometry might work well for it.

[Anonymous No.1610700]

But can /3DPG/ guess what that is?

[Anonymous No.1610705]

has somebody printed the mpcnc?

[Anonymous No.1610706]

>>1609572
for 3d printing / industrial design. i know nothing about CADS or modeling software aside from basic blender

[Anonymous No.1610712]

>>1610706
Go with Fusion360 or a pirated version of SolidWorks or Inventor.

[Anonymous No.1610726]

[Anonymous No.1610732]

>>1610726
ssembly

[Anonymous No.1610745]

How do i waterproof my 3d printed electronics case?

[Anonymous No.1610748]

>>1610375
There is an endless debate over ballscrews and belts, for whatever reason you haven't just experienced it. Ballscrews are better if you know how to design mechanical systems and you have a particular scale in mind, belts are a lot more forgiving of bad design and are usually cheaper. Backlash and similar issues are a little easier to mitigate effectively with ballscrews too. Btw, you will eventually come across someone who believes no belt system can have backlash because they have a very particular idea of what backlash is, just ignore it.

[Anonymous No.1610752]

>>1610745
I made a weather station Arduino case by printing two sides that bolt together, with one side having a lip that goes inside the other part. On the outside of the lip I put a 60mm rubber gasket seal ring. It's survived being outdoors in rain for about a year, but I doubt it would last very long completely submerged.

[Anonymous No.1610771]

>>1610748
>you will eventually come across someone who believes no belt system can have backlash because they have a very particular idea of what backlash is
That's fucking hilarious.

[Anonymous No.1610845]

>>1609737
I kinda find it underwhelming, when good posts like this gets pretty much no attention, while the borderline shitposting ones get a ton.

[Anonymous No.1610882]

>>1610700
Headphone stand or wall-mounted (something) holder

[Anonymous No.1610955]

Took a chance making this on two different printers. The printers were dead on, but I found out after the fact that the stl file for the lid was scaled down on the x-axis to make the hinge fit instead of just fixing it in cad. Stupid thingiverse.

[Anonymous No.1610964]

How do I add detail like the orange rust on this metal sculpture to a pla 3d print after painting/finishing?

[Anonymous No.1610965]

How do I add detail like the orange rust on this metal sculpture to a pla 3d print after painting/finishing?

[Anonymous No.1610966]

>>1610965

[Anonymous No.1610968]

>>1610882
pretty good!
Heres your (You)

[Anonymous No.1610970]

>>1610966
thanks I guess I just couldn't find the words for it.

[Anonymous No.1610974]

Day 1 of building FT-6 after work: frame almost done.

This is one big boi

[Anonymous No.1610977]

>>1610452
You could always email Hatchbox directly, it couldn't hurt.

[Anonymous No.1611096]

>>1610421
>>1610507
i recently started printing with petg. i had a hotend with ptfe tube in the throat and since seller recommended 240C for printing petg, i tried making an all metal hotend by replacing the throat to a full metal one.
for whatever reason i just couldnt get it to print. the hotend would constantly jam after only few minutes of printing. i tried changing the temperature, speed, nozzles, retraction, even extruder jerk and acceleration to no avail. i then noticed that this specific petg prints decently @220C so switched back to throat with ptfe tube. now it prints fine, and i limited my nozzle temp to 230C for first layer and 220C for the rest.
is there any trick im missing with the full metal throat?

[Anonymous No.1611108]

>>1611096
Was it a V6 clone? I never had any luck with all metal V6 clones.

[Anonymous No.1611209]

>>1610974
Keep posting, i am genuine curious how it will perform, the print bed size is quite unsual, pretty interested if it works as it should.

[Anonymous No.1611287]

[Anonymous No.1611292]

>>1611287
kek

[Anonymous No.1611312]

>>1611287
wtf is going on there

[Anonymous No.1611339]

>>1610968
Is that just PLA, or something else? I'm impressed by the strength.

[Anonymous No.1611350]

Testing machine anon here, we're back! Today it was time to test the inserts that are going to hold the driver restraints, and they're supposed to hold 13kN in a pullout test.
>200mm round test panel, 40mm thick
>Regular Makerpoint PLA we had laying around
>4mm top/bottom
>25% grid infill
>0.8 nozzle
>0.3mm layer height
>80mm/s print speed
>15.8mm round hole in the middle

>16mm diameter, 39.5mm long aluminium insert, no knurling
>Tapped for M10 through and through
>M10*40 washers on both sides
>Regular bolt on one side, lifting eye bolt on the other (to mount the driver restraints)
Total force needed for pulling this thing out: 17kN! Washers had some buckling, what got pulled out looks almost like it was done by an apple corer so they did not fail completely. With our fancy carbon-filled nylon, this thing should easily exceed 20kN, so it's more than safe enough for our racecar. Hurray!

[Anonymous No.1611353]

>>1611339
Yes just PLA.
I'm very worried that it'll snap suddenly though.
I've done some strengh testing on the weaker prototype, pic related 5kg. Seemed to be quite the limit.
I'm estimating the bike around 12kg

>>1611350
amazing

[Anonymous No.1611358]

>>1611353
>>1610968
>straßenteppich
yours or your Kkds?

[Anonymous No.1611360]

>>1611353
>>1610968
>straßenteppich
yours or your kids?

[Anonymous No.1611363]

>>1611350
That's cool! I did formula student with Delft University of Technology back in 2012. Awesome experience. Would be nice to see some material tests on PLA following ASTM standards for tensile, compression amd shear. Did testing for composires myself. I reckon 3D printed materials will exhibit similar properties when it comes to directionality.

[Anonymous No.1611397]

>>1611363
We're another Dutch team, the first with a 3D-printed monocoque - you can probably guess which one. Pic related uses a 3D-printed PLA sandwich core which was then laminated with CF, the next monocoque is going to be printed in CF-reinforced nylon, so it's going to be all-print - no laminate! Sadly, it won't run this year in FSN, which is a bummer given all the research I did into making a monocoque without laminate.

3D-printed materials have the same directionality, the only reason companies aren't doing serious testing is that the sales volume isn't worth it (yet?). Some are doing it though, for example:
>https://www.innofil3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/TDS-Innofil3D-ABS-160609.pdf

[Anonymous No.1611398]

>>1611397
NEAT

[Anonymous No.1611450]

>>1610965
If you want to make something really cool-looking, get bronze filament and submerge your print in vinegar for a while to give it patina. Then use a fine grit sandpaper to sand the surface. That way a print like that bird would be smooth, shiny bronze with patina bronze in the cracks.

[Anonymous No.1611453]

>>1611096
The reason most printers use a PTFE throat is because they're way easier. All-metal will take some tinkering and it needs to be assembled perfectly. Find yourself a good youtube tutorial for the assembly, and tinker with the temperatures until it works.

[Anonymous No.1611592]

thinking about trying out atomic filaments gun metal filament, anyone try this brand?

[Anonymous No.1611626]

Is this a good layer?

[Anonymous No.1611630]

>>1611626
Looks like the area closer to that hole needs to be leveled a little closer.

[Anonymous No.1611635]

>>1611630

thanks i adjusted. is there any bed leveling that isn't hard to install?

[Anonymous No.1611638]

Having this hole in my benchy. Tightened belts, lowered print speed, calibrated recursion, leveled bed, messed around with temps, etc. It's abs with an enclosure. Any ideas?

[Anonymous No.1611645]

>>1611638
Kinda looks like you're just getting warping issues on layer shifts.

[Anonymous No.1611681]

>>1611638
>It's abs with an enclosure
Try turning on the part cooling fans on like 20-30%, if you got a somewhat decent temperature in the chamber.

[Anonymous No.1611686]

>>1611681
this would be mainly for small parts yes? With a bigger abs part you would want no fans even with an enclosure?

[Anonymous No.1611687]

how often do you guys use zhop? im guessing if i have a flat print i should have it enabled? because i can hear it rubbing. i have never used this yet. i have not gotten rubbing with busts of prints.

[Anonymous No.1611696]

>>1611686
Generally speaking yes, but it strongly depends on your enclosure temperature, how well the part sticks to the heatbed, the ABS you are printing with and of course the print part size. Also the type of fans can change the experience. Have a friend that prints pretty large stuff (part size 8+ inch flat on the bed) with ABS, but he got years of semi professional expertise and a heated chamber that is heated to 60-70°C.
Try it with small parts first, enclosure is a must, heat bed temperature should be at least 85°C, dont turn on the fan for the first layers, it helps if you preheat the enclosure a bit with just having the bed brought up to temperature for a while. You might need a stronger fan for the hotend heatsink and to tune the stepper motors current down or they might overheat. Just use your brain.

[Anonymous No.1611701]

>>1611687
>how often do you use zhop
Hasn't that been enabled by default on a lot of firmware for... like, years?

[Anonymous No.1611702]

>>1611701

I dont know but its off by default on cura, is there any gcode i can run to see if its enabled or not?

[Anonymous No.1611709]

>>1611397

[Anonymous No.1611755]

Day two, lots of fuckery getting the x axis rolling smoothly. But the x and y axes are ready, tomorrow should see the z table.

[Anonymous No.1611764]

>>1611287
>let's go to anon's room and check up on what he's been up to

[Anonymous No.1611770]

>>1611701
z hop isn't done by firmware

[Anonymous No.1611791]

>>1611108
yeah, all the parts were cheap chinkshit from aliex, although the throats with ptfe tubes are from the same supplier.
>>1611453
i tried assembling it by following some shitty youtube tutorial, also was looking for some "tips'n'tricks", but no luck. got any recommendations? also i have a suspicion that the problem is that the surface on the throat is too rough, thus the half melted plastic clings to it. if thats the case, theres not much to do except buying original metal throats for $10 each.
anyways, i was thinking of just buying a preassembled full metal hotend, maybe something like micro swiss from aliex. are these any better or will i just spend $20 for nothing?

[Anonymous No.1611792]

>>1611686
>>1611696
is there still a point in using abs for 3d printing?
afaik, petg has basically the same mechanical properties, without any printing problems of abs. also, the price is quite similar and petg doesnt absorb moisture as quickly as abs.

[Anonymous No.1611803]

What's the recommended way for ABL on Ender-3?
and does anybody have a good guide for installing it?

[Anonymous No.1611815]

>>1611360
lol wtf, I don't have kids.
We got the Verkehrsteppich for our shared apartment.

[Anonymous No.1611866]

>>1611791
I have a Micro Swiss on my Ender, and it works great. You won't find Micro Swiss on Ali for 20 bucks though, it'll be some other hot end just listed under that name. It might not even be all-metal.

The Chinese make a lot of junk, but they can also make genuinely good things. Their mentality isn't "let's rip off the baka gaijin westerners", it's more "let's rip off the cheapskate idiots who actually believe you can buy high quality stuff this cheaply". "You get what you pay for" is an expression in China too, if you buy the cheapest junk on ebay, you're going to get cheap junk.

This all-metal throat cost you less than ten bucks? I would be super wary of it. Chances are, yeah, you're going to need to suck it up and just pay E3D ten bucks for an official throat.

[Anonymous No.1611867]

>>1611803
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2975949
This is what I did. BLTouch is more expensive but supposedly has more reliable electronics. I use a Chinese clone called 3DTouch, and it works splendidly.

I'd recommend buying an octopi if you don't already have one, because to use the decent bed leveling versions on the Ender you need to disable features. To get the best one I had to turn off the SD card reader, so having an octopi to print from makes up for that.

[Anonymous No.1612029]

>>1611792
ABS is more heat resistant, can be vapor smoothed and easily glued with acetone, it is still cheaper and you often get better bargain deals with it, flow is generally better than PETG (E3D recommended it for their smallest nozzles), it can be better sanded or drilled, it doesnt stick to the nozzle so much. Printing problems are manageable depending on what you want to do. If you are printing "reguar" stuff i would prefer PETG as well, but when you need technical parts for mechanical use that will be afterprocessed i would recommend ABS. I cant recall any PETG aviable that has flame-retardant in it, while there are at least a few ABS ones out there. Only real problem i have for myself is the lack of native UV protection and the warping.

[Anonymous No.1612030]

>>1611397
>the next monocoque is going to be printed in CF-reinforced nylon
Sounds like a dumb idea to be honest

[Anonymous No.1612036]

>>1612030
Why?

[Anonymous No.1612042]

>>1612036
Because the CF monocoque is already a better solution. CF reinforced nylon is still pretty shit as far as holding itself together goes

[Anonymous No.1612044]

>>1611803
Inductive sensor, since it comes with an aluminum bed and no glass

[Anonymous No.1612048]

>>1611866
>This all-metal throat cost you less than ten bucks? I would be super wary of it. Chances are, yeah, you're going to need to suck it up and just pay E3D ten bucks for an official throat.
Hell fucking no. The 0.11$ all metal throats works perfectly

>b-b-but the interior isn't mirror-like polished!

Doesn't matter, it will print 99% like an expensive part

[Anonymous No.1612049]

This keeps happening, I tried z-hop and it still rubs the part but I can see why its doing that, the first layer is I guess okay but once it starts on the rest it gets rough, see picture. I have calibrated extruder and it's fine. Maybe I'm too close to the nozzle? too far? if you see the adhesion on the end it looks okay so I don't know what's going on. The bed isn't moving when I try to move it so I don't think its that.

[Anonymous No.1612050]

>>1612042
>CF reinforced nylon is still pretty shit as far as holding itself together goes
Holds up fine, plenty to meet regulations.

[Anonymous No.1612055]

>>1612050
Now try it with shear stress instead

[Anonymous No.1612066]

>>1612055
>Now try it with shear stress instead
We did. Minimum is 4 or 7.5kN (depending on the location in the monocoque, we very clearly exceeded that.

[Anonymous No.1612072]

>>1612066
Ok then, how much heavier is it to get that result?

[Anonymous No.1612078]

>>1612072
Previous chassis was 105kg (pigfat), new one is going to be 55-58kg depending on some design decisions yet to be made. It's still overweight at that point, the walls are 4mm thick because that's the nozzle diameter.
The problem is that there's no real middle ground between filament printers (usually up to 1.2mm) and pellet printers (usually starting at about 4mm). Our sweet spot for wall thickness would be 2.6mm (since that would result in 8.5kN in PST testing), and that would save another 12-15kg, but then you'd need a 1.3mm nozzle and it would literally take weeks to print the body in one go. If someone were to make a multinozzle pellet printer, that'd be great because you could do the walls with a custom machined 2.6mm nozzle to meet PST requirements, and then just use a 4, 6 or even 8mm nozzle to slather in the infill.

For shits and giggles, look up the costs of CF-filled nylon filaments, multiply by the weight needed (plus ~5kg of support material), and then add a generous sprinkling of printing time to pay for, because a 4000*2000*1000mm pellet printer isn't cheap. Thank god for sponsorship deals.

[Anonymous No.1612085]

>>1612049

solved it. nozzle was too high and not squishing enough while extruding so when the next layer came it would rub the layer underneath it when it G0. Thank fuck for that. I was losing my mind. I think I will invest in a BLTouch. Either that or glass was dirty.

[Anonymous No.1612092]

>>1611792
>petg has basically the same mechanical properties
Except elongation %. ABS can distort much further in strain before it breaks.

[Anonymous No.1612096]

>>1612092
>https://www.innofil3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/TDS-EPR-InnoPET-160608.pdf
Elongation at break for PETG: ~1.0%
>https://www.innofil3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/TDS-Innofil3D-ABS-160609.pdf
Elongation at break for ABS: ~0.5%

>>1611792
>is there still a point in using abs for 3d printing?
PETG has it beat in strength, elongation, E-modulus and flexibility. The only place where ABS is still better is Charpy testing, but that matters fuck all for most prints.

[Anonymous No.1612098]

Does the socks that go on the hotend play any crucial part? Or is it just so you don't accidentally touch the hotend and burn yourself?

[Anonymous No.1612102]

>>1612098
It's important if you use part cooling, so the heating block doesn't lose too much heat.

[Anonymous No.1612113]

>>1612050
Thats how you fuck up a load cell cable guys. Watch and learn.

[Anonymous No.1612181]

>>1611755
Keep it coming. I'm interested in how that machine turns out.

[Anonymous No.1612183]

I've got this problem where if I print small 3d stuff they end up looking fine but if i scale it up and try to run it i gets a little messy. the smaller prints are perfect. is this just me not using the correct settings on cura? should I use a bigger nozzle?

[Anonymous No.1612209]

I am thinking about putting my Anycubic Photon in an airtight container while it's printing, I cant stand the fumes. Will it be able to work without ventilation?

[Anonymous No.1612246]

>>1612183
What do you mean by messy? I had a lot of stringers until I adjusted the filament retraction amount for my printer, you can try starting there. Need more info the help you though.

[Anonymous No.1612247]

>>1612209
Dont think this is a good idea, there will be less fumes but they still will get out when you open it, you must compensate for thermal expansion and depending on how things go there might be problems through the higher temperature. If you do it, place a fan in it with one of those carbon filter matts, maybe it is enough to clean the case of the box after a while or keep it at a lower level.

Dont use the resin in places where it doesnt get ventilated out, once your imnune system gets triggered by it, you are pretty much fucked from ever using it and manyy other resins.

[Anonymous No.1612249]

>>1612183
Did you change the print width and layer height when printing larger parts? Maybe you are printing too fast, when the prints are very small the printing head doesnt have enough space to accelerate to full speed or is at full speed at shorter times compared to the larger prints.

[Anonymous No.1612286]

>>1612249
>>1612246

I tried everything online and then found a thread on another forum. It was the z lead screw and rollers. lol

[Anonymous No.1612288]

>>1612096
Looks like ABS kicks PETG in the ass at impact strength, but the results are opposite in tensile.

[Anonymous No.1612291]

I'm just going to print everything with a raft from now on. All my troubles go away when I use a raft. No rubbing, perfect layers, quiet prints.

[Anonymous No.1612297]

>>1610452
No idea. I was just trying to find some simple gray ABS the other day, and couldn't find shit.

[Anonymous No.1612302]

>>1611287
>and this is our son's room

[Anonymous No.1612313]

I haven't pew pew'd in a while.

[Anonymous No.1612344]

>>1612313
Some of us started to worry, lol

[Anonymous No.1612360]

>>1612313
Cool airsoft gun. Have you considered getting into nerf?

[Anonymous No.1612374]

>>1612288
>>1612096
Wasnt the problem with PETG, that it creeps more than ABS under pressure?

[Anonymous No.1612375]

>>1612291
Yikes desu. What are you printing with?

[Anonymous No.1612391]

Is there any real difference if I print something large and long so it's along the X axis (so extruder is moving more) or Y axis (bed moves more)? Assuming my printer is belt-driven and tuned properly, I would assume it wouldn't matter. Any evidence to the contrary? I know if it was PLA, it'd make sense to have the airflow along the direction of the print, but I'm printing ABS so there's no specific high/low heat zones from any particular direction.

inb4 dick jokes, it's a dragon skull

[Anonymous No.1612393]

>>1612391
And forgot to mention, that's just a random image off google and not even my model of printer

[Anonymous No.1612400]

>>1612313
soft air?

[Anonymous No.1612401]

Day 3. Got the bed and the Z-axis rails in. Aligning the rails was pretty tedious, but it seems pretty smooth now. I screwed up the Z-axis stepper plate by putting the tensioning bolts and stepper on upside down. As a result, the lead screw belts don't fit. I never liked using cantilevered bolts in slots as tensioning mechanisms, so I'm printing an alternate tensioning system from thingiverse for the Z-axis that will replace those while I'm at it. Tomorrow is the weekend so I expect to be able to make significant progress with the longer build time.

The more I build, the more I get upset that there are no washers included with the kit (I had bought some in advance as a recommendation from another builder on youtube). Working with the ACM panels with the clearances they have for the hardware, there's no excuse for them to not use washers in the design.

[Anonymous No.1612402]

>>1612391
In this context long or short does not matter.
What does matter (although just a little) is accelleartion. If you have a zig zag line it would be optimal to do the zig zaging on the axis your extruder is on and not on your bed axis.

[Anonymous No.1612414]

>>1612391

You want to keep the part's longest axis parallel to the direction of table travel. It generally won't matter much, but I did have two failed prints where I forgot to do this on a long, thin, tall part and it wobbled itself free of the table.

[Anonymous No.1612472]

>>1612209
Yes, but it'll kill itself pretty quick. The UV LEDs are supposed to be air cooled.

[Anonymous No.1612474]

>>1612401
What's the kit?

[Anonymous No.1612520]

>>1612472

Maybe anon could hook up a PC liquid cooling setup to the LED heatsink. Either that or set up some kind of tubing to vent the fumes out a window.

And that's why resin printers aren't going to catch on for the home diy-er, not unless they come up with a non-toxic daylight resin.

[Anonymous No.1612526]

>>1612474
Its a Folger Tech FT-6.

>>1612401
Interesting. Thought about buying that machine once there is a general verdict on it. Kinda annoying that you always get 10 and more reviews and videos over the same chink printer and something like that gets so little coverage if at all.

[Anonymous No.1612639]

Ender 3 anons, what acceleration/jerk values do you run?
I just flashed a bootloader and look for stuff to tune

[Anonymous No.1612641]

>>1612639

[Anonymous No.1612674]

>>1612641
If you want better quality (at the cost of time), change all the accelerations to 300 and all the jerks to 5.

[Anonymous No.1612675]

>>1612247
>>1612472
Dang, alright. I'll look into a venting system instead.

[Anonymous No.1612678]

>>1612209
Put it in a mini-fridge

[Anonymous No.1612686]

>>1612674
I have the outer walls printing at 30mm/s which seems to do the trick.

[Anonymous No.1612699]

>>1612639
turned off acceleration/jerk control in cura and let the firmware handle it with s-curve acceleration and junction deviation enabled

[Anonymous No.1612701]

>>1612699
why do you give your litte 8-bit microcontroller more shit to compute?

[Anonymous No.1612702]

>>1612701
switched to a SKR 1.3, seems ok to me

[Anonymous No.1612734]

>>1610518
Are you competing in the collegiate wind turbine contest?

[Anonymous No.1612741]

How do you guys usually go about planning out a design? I usually use index cards to piece it together before I move to 360. But looking for any ideas that could help the work flow or my productivity.

[Anonymous No.1612773]

>>1612741
>design
I don't understand. Form follows function. So, parametric 3d modeling.

[Anonymous No.1612828]

Can't figure this out for the life of me as Loft doesn't work like I had hoped it would. Trying to connect this outer edge wall on the bottom to the wall on the top. But gives me errors when I attempt to do it, which doesn't make sense to me as that seems like a pretty straight forward command to do.

[Anonymous No.1612859]

>>1612828
Loft doesn't typically work for creating hollow segments. You need to loft extrude the whole volume, then use a second loft to cut the inside out of it. That is probably why you are getting the error.

[Anonymous No.1612860]

>>1612859
Also, forgot to note that loft is an extrapolation between two sketches. You draw what the solid ends as at one end, and another sketch for what the solids ends as at the other.

[Anonymous No.1612863]

any ideas on how to get rid of these zits?
printing on prusa mk2 with prusa PLA and slicing with cura using prusa settings

[Anonymous No.1612864]

>>1612860
>>1612859
Alright, I can see what you mean. Do you think there would be another way to do this? Or is my way of doing it over complicated and just doing the loft design itself would be easier?

[Anonymous No.1612870]

>>1612863
calibrate e-steps and/or set z seam alignment to one spot

[Anonymous No.1612878]

>>1612870
>calibrate e-steps
what does this mean?
>set z seam alignment to one spot
it's a circular object, can't have a seam anywhere, that's why i set it on random, looks better this way but it's far from good

[Anonymous No.1612881]

>>1612878
if you put it on one side, you can just sand it down anon
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y

[Anonymous No.1612896]

Can I actually do this? I'm about to embark on a ~19 hour print but shit like this is going on and if I up the infill to give these islands support, it increases the print time to like 30 hours.

[Anonymous No.1612898]

>>1610518
tree supports?

[Anonymous No.1612899]

>>1612896
Rotate the part or infill angle, sometimes it will put supports where there was previously void. What's the next few layers look like?

[Anonymous No.1612900]

>>1611635
BLTouch is fairly straightforward, hardest part is flashing a bootloader and then modifying and flashing the new firmware to support it.

[Anonymous No.1612901]

>>1612896
if you use cura increase the "skin expand distance" setting (hidden by default)

[Anonymous No.1612927]

So, today was fun. Went to Maker Faire, got to meet Prusa himself. Got a sample of their orange PETG and looked at the demo pieces they had of the SL1. Great stuff. All-around good fun, but a bit rainy.

[Anonymous No.1612969]

Trying to calibrate my printer (makergear m2) atm, my calibration prints are coming out one layer height taller than they should. i.e. a 3mm object is finishing as a 3.15mm object. However when I was printing some calibration cubes at 10mm, after changing my extrusion multi to .95, they were coming out pretty much on point at 10.05mm.

What gives?

[Anonymous No.1612998]

>>1612391
>>1612402
>>1612414
Something interesting I learned, apparently rotating the part 90 degrees adds/drops 30 minutes of printing time depending on the orientation (long left-to-right is shorter). I can't imagine why, AFAIK the acceleration and speed on all my axes is the same.

[Anonymous No.1613022]

>>1612741
Mostly in my head and details like dimenaions on paper.
I got quick enough in fusion that I can do a lot of stuff directly.
I definetly have to do more VR sketching in Tilt Brush or Gravity Sketch. It takes out the necessity to project 3D objects in the head to 2D paper when sketching.

[Anonymous No.1613047]

Day four and the hardware is (almost) completely put together. Today I finished the gantry and the Z-axis table, as well as the electrical. I think that the work I did ensuring that things were dead-on square when building the frame worked out well for me, the X, Y, Z axes all appear to move quite smoothly. Total time building today was approximately 14 hours, over half of that being dedicated to working out the electrical system routing/re-routing things. I'd estimate total build time so far at about 25 hours, which seems on-par with some of the streamers on youtube that had the audacity to publish videos of them building the thing (as if anyone has time to sit through watching hours of that shit). I recorded some steps though the process and may put together a video containing thoughts on the build and what I would do differently had I known things from the start to try to help anyone else attempting this project. Key things are:

1. Buy at least 100 3mm washers, and 50 of 4mm and 5mm. They're cheap and will come in handy. It's embarrassing that washers aren't included in the kit. You may also want
2. Fuck the ACM extruder/gantry mounts, having the alternate printed ones from Thingiverse right away was definitely the correct decision
3. The cable chain system I had in mind from thingiverse does not work with a dual bowden extruder setup. If you are going to use a cable chain on the Z-axis, do not cut the heated bed wires until after you have routed the cabling.
4. Clear off more working space than you think you need, since the thing itself is really big. Also you need access to the back of the device frequently, so not against a wall would be the best spot.
5. The planned electrical system is laughable at best, the instructions for that section are by far the worst, and if you aren't comfortable working with mains you may be intimidated. Make sure you have terminal ends/crimpers and a soldering iron if you want it to look in any way presentable.

[Anonymous No.1613051]

Missed in item 1:
>You may also want
You may also want a box of misc 3mm-5mm screws, I needed them a couple times but I can't remember exactly where yet.

I ended up drilling holes to mount things a few times in the electronics box when there were already things there. Being ACM, aluminum chips can be generated by the drilling operation. I suggest masking off boards with plastic bags/tape, and using a vacuum cleaner to suck away chips while drilling. For example, you can see I drilled and mounted the orange pi to the underside of the enclosure here with screws/standoffs replacing the instructions-dictated double-sided tape (yes I'm serious, they just want you to stick that fucker on there with tape).

I'm at the point where I am done with hardware build so far as I know, and tomorrow I will be flashing firmware to the control board and loading software to the orange pi. It's been a long build process, but the sweet sweet huge build volume will soon be mine.

[Anonymous No.1613054]

>>1613047
>25h
holy shit, I hope it was worth it. I wonder why they engineered it so badly. I bet better design choices would speed it up a lot.
Keep us updated!
Seems like you need a 3d printer th be able to build this printer.
Any specific task you got it for?

[Anonymous No.1613061]

>>1613054

I think if I were to redo it, it could be done in about 10-15 hours. A lot of the additional time was reading the very poor documentation. I don't believe the core of this is engineered poorly, I can't see much that I would change with the frame/mechanics, it's very solid. Some design choices could be made to speed up the build, but at the cost of a cost increase (the main draw is the build volume to cost ratio). My opinion on this appears to be shared by some of the others on youtube that are working with the FT-6; the documentation is clearly rushed and very very sparse at critical points in the mechanical and electrical sections, and there are some clear indicators that development was rushed/cost cut to get it out the door on sale for black Friday last year (no washers, taping on the X-axis stepper cable splitter, taping the orange pi, cantilevered bolts as a tensioning mechanism). These issues go away, but there isn't really any excuse why they still haven't gotten updates into their documentation or released complete firmware setup guides, as it's been half a year since its release.

To be clear, you can build this without a printer, all parts are included to do so but given the option, you can save time and reduce complexity by printing parts that replace an assembly of two or more ACM components with the benefit of added rigidity.

[Anonymous No.1613064]

>>1613054
>Any specific task you got it for?
Yes, printing customized bonsai training pots with the intent of selling them for fun and profit to members of the bonsai club I'm in. When bonsai are in training, you may not want to put them in a clay pot or may need some special shape container if they've been collected from the wild. Being able to print this large allows for much more functional pots than the size I was limited to in the maker select V2. Pic related is a PLA pot that was used for two years outside and shows minimal signs of wear. I figure this technology could be much more useful for larger size trees, where training pots are not as readily available or building a wooden box for them is too time consuming/annoying to do.

[Anonymous No.1613075]

>>1611792
in air quality tests, abs is one of the most toxic materials found. If printing at home id avoid it for that alone. PLA and PETG are much safer

[Anonymous No.1613116]

>>1612969
M2 owner since 2012 here, whats your slicing software?
The extrusion multiplier should not affect hight unless you have an overextrusion problem. Post pics of the top surface of your prints for more help.

[Anonymous No.1613122]

>>1613116
The top has some pillowing but it's the side that's kicking my ass

[Anonymous No.1613124]

>>1613122
And the side. My camera lost its front protective glass so it can't focus very well anymore

[Anonymous No.1613126]

>>1613124
>>1613122
Oh and I'm using slic3r and pronterface. 120mm/s for infill and permit, with a 500/350mm/s2 accel. Using between 150%-250% for extrusion widths. 2mm retraction at 100mm/s and a -0.5 restart, and printing 210/65c for first layer and 208/50 for all others. 0.2 layer height

[Anonymous No.1613128]

>>1613126
Why 208? I'm assuming PLA? 208 is in the upper range of what PLA likes, mostly you'll want 190-200 instead. I print my local hardware store PLA at 195 for example. Try lowering your temperature.

[Anonymous No.1613130]

>>1613128
Sure, but so far I've found running 210 to give me some pretty smooth and strong prints, and I've had problems with delamination when going lower than 205

[Anonymous No.1613131]

>>1612863
Do you have lots of travel movements?
Increase retraction speed and limit coasting to a few mm.

[Anonymous No.1613138]

>>1613128
Came out pretty good, still looks like the pics above but noticeably flatter.

[Anonymous No.1613150]

>>1613130
>>1613138
It might be smoother at higher temps, but it also means you're more likely to run into overheating, which ruins small features and can cause blobs and zits. Look at the edges of your dice, they're very round. They should be much sharper, only as round as the hole on your nozzle, ie with a .4 nozzle they should be .2mm fillet. On my stock ender 3 the corners were sharp enough to prick yourself on.

[Anonymous No.1613180]

>>1613122
>>1613124
>>1613126
Sure looks like overextrusion.
You'll either need an even lower extrusion multiplier or calibrate your E-stepps.
For calibration prints 60mm/s would be a better choice untill you got the rest sorted out.

[Anonymous No.1613219]

turned out alright
if only i could get rid of those zits though

[Anonymous No.1613225]

>>1613219

[Anonymous No.1613241]

Greetings anons,
I have an old Prusa Mendel that I tuned a bit, but I didn't used it in years.
I want to reuse it so update software and recalibrate everything will be needed.
I have an old Sanguinololu board with an antic Marlin in it. Can I burn the last version without problem or is there some tricks I'm not aware of?
For the calibration part, any good tutorial?
Or should I do it the old way by set my bed flat, then calibrate the extruder (my method was similar to >>1612881 ), then print a 100mm*100mm outline square to calibrate X and Y, and then a 40-50mm cylinder to calibrate Z axis?
I'm I missing something?
Thank anons for any tricks to help me make this grandpa work again.

[Anonymous No.1613244]

>>1612864
>Do you think there would be another way to do this?
The alternative if you want all the walls to have the same thickness is to make only the outside of the part at first. Then select one side and use the Shell function to scoop out the inside surfaces at whatever wall thickness you specify.

[Anonymous No.1613248]

>>1613241
>I have an old Sanguinololu board with an antic Marlin in it.

It'll be fine, you may be surprised that the majority of printers still use the same 8bit Atmega MCUs. You might need to go over the Configuration.h again to copy the settings from the old file but thats about it.

>For the calibration part, any good tutorial?

Use the ol' esteps calibration tutorial from the reprap wiki (which is done in Tom's video). For extra fine-tuning you can have a look at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnjE5udkNEA

>I'm I missing something?

The majority improvements over the last 5 years have been in cost reduction and comfort features. The average part count on a printer has been reduced, so kits are cheaper and less prone to user error. Auto bed-levelling would be an example of a comfort feature that is very common now, even though the old paper method works just as well.

[Anonymous No.1613273]

>>1613241
what calibrations are you talking about?
nobneed to print anything, just make sure that all the axises move the exact amount of mm's you tell them to move and you're fine.

[Anonymous No.1613287]

What are the cons of pic related ? Magnetic bed.
I'm tired of fighting to remove large surface print

[Anonymous No.1613289]

>>1613287
>>1613287
What material are you printing
If you say PLA and haven't taken the glass pill then you're doing yourself no favors

[Anonymous No.1613292]

>>1613287
The magnetisation is susceptible to temperature. Much above 50 and it'll stop sticking.

[Anonymous No.1613293]

>>1613289
PLA, I have a buildtak layer on the bed but it's a nightmare to remove prints
Are you talking about glass + hair spray ?

[Anonymous No.1613298]

Actually, I can just buy a thin surface of aluminium/Stainless steel, stick a buildtak on it and boum, no issue with temperature and I got something flexible

[Anonymous No.1613303]

>>1613298
What i did is, replaced my bed with a 1mm thick steel sheet. Bought an A4 sheet of fridge magnet, stick the buildtak to the fridge magnet. Aand you have a removable bed.

[Anonymous No.1613305]

>>1613293
No, I'm talking glass. Just clean glass. The key here is to never ever touch the build surface after it is clean.

If you still have edges lifting, brim 8 layers and you're good. Wait for it to cool after printing and just pick the print up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kj4Xz3DwGSQ

[Anonymous No.1613312]

>>1613305
wait, it's easier to remove the print when it's cold ?
>>1613303
seems to be a good idea

[Anonymous No.1613319]

>>1613312
yes, the once its cooled the bed and the print tend to shrink towards themselves and weaken the bonding that they had when the bed was warm. a warm bed keeps the bond by softening the material just enough to make it sticky/adhesive on its own.

[Anonymous No.1613320]

>>1613064
Ah, you're bonsai anon.
Nice, good luck with that. I like the idea a lot

>>1613122
Something is going horribly wrong with your printer.
Either your mechanics are cooked spaghetties or you're overextruding like myself after too spicy enchiladas

[Anonymous No.1613336]

>>1613320
nah, it was just bad acceleration

>>1613150
Thanks for the suggestion about edge sharpness, I fixed that problem and the overall print quality shot up with it

[Anonymous No.1613389]

>>1613287
Those are cheap crap magnetic sheets, usually not better than ordinary fridge magnets. Magnetic beds usually have a few fairly powerful magnets instead of a broad one like this

>>1613292
Depends on the quality of the magnet

[Anonymous No.1613482]

>>1613128
I've got brands and colors that look and print great at 180, and others that only like to print around 210. Always print an incremental heat tower for each new brand you get!

[Anonymous No.1613484]

>>1613482
Good point. My hardware store white prints at 195, but the black of same brand delaminates and needs 200.

[Anonymous No.1613503]

>>1613312
Yea, I can get prints off with a bit of work on my diamond bed, but once it's cold it's a lot easier, usually just a small pull will do it.

[Anonymous No.1613626]

>4 1/2 hour print fails 3 hours in twice
the jews did this

[Anonymous No.1613633]

>>1613626
why is cura trying to steal my model's structural integrity?

[Anonymous No.1613658]

>>1613633
>unironically useing cura
Slic3r is the one you want.

[Anonymous No.1613661]

>>1613658
Is Slic3r free now? I though it was like 180 bucks.

[Anonymous No.1613665]

>>1613661
It's always been free as far as I can remember. You're thinking of Simplify3D.

[Anonymous No.1613670]

So Google and the free .cad file sites haven't helped me much. I'm looking for a p90 airsoft body to print to replace the shit one that came with the gun. Does anybody have a file that might work or does that lean too close to hurr Durr making real gunz

[Anonymous No.1613715]

>>1613658
>>1613661
>Slic3r over CURA
Whew, solid attempt at trolling a newby but you wont get anyone that knows anything with that one.

[Anonymous No.1613735]

>>1613670
nigga you do understand that the internals and how they fit with the bpdy is entirely dependant on the manufacturer and the model, there is no single "p90" in th airsoft world

[Anonymous No.1613739]

>>1613735
He probably thinks airsoft P90s are the same as real P90s only with pellets instead of bullets. So many of these airsoft fags think their toys aren't toys.

[Anonymous No.1613780]

>>1609519
FREECAD!!!

[Anonymous No.1613784]

Wow, so much nicer. Both on the firmware and the screen angle.

[Anonymous No.1613848]

>>1613670
>/diy/

[Anonymous No.1613915]

>>1613848
>>1613670
>buying a 3d printer with absolutely no intent to model your own things, just print shit off of thingiverse
wew lad.

[Anonymous No.1613959]

how often do you use your printers?
im thinking about buying my first but it feel more like impusive buy rather than me actually needing one
i fear i might not use it that much and itd just collect dust

[Anonymous No.1613971]

>>1613959
get a kit and build one up yourself, then you have the fun of building it
and later re-building it when you realised all the mistakes you made the first time

[Anonymous No.1613975]

>>1613959
>it feels more like impusive buy rather than me actually needing one
If you don't do any diy projects regularly than yes, it would be an impulsive purchase.

[Anonymous No.1613979]

>>1613959
So you're even worse off than >>1613915

[Anonymous No.1613981]

>>1613959
I print maybe one or two things a week, usually mechanical components I designed in solidworks.
If you don't have any plans for your printer, then don't buy one. If you're just going to print trash from thingiverse, you'll get off cheaper and with more quality just buying trash from ebay.

[Anonymous No.1613983]

>>1613959
>how often do you use your printers?
About once a week, depending on the week. Once I need a design done I could be printing 5-10 units, contiuously tweaking my design untill it's just perfect, and that's 1-2 days of printing in most cases.
>i fear i might not use it that much and itd just collect dust
Minimise the risk by buying secondhand from someone who did just that.

[Anonymous No.1614001]

>>1613633
Your STL is probably not "watertight" or "manifold" or something like that. Throw it in Meshmixer and repair it.

[Anonymous No.1614065]

>>1613959
>how often do you use your printers?
I'm using 7 of them for production, so 4 or 5 shifts per day.

[Anonymous No.1614071]

>>1613959
I've been using mine every day recently because I've started a few new projects that are easily done 3d printing. If you like to make things, 3D printers open up a ton of fabrication options for you - if you don't make things, it's basically a raspberry pi-level novelty, relegated to printing pokemon models other people made.

[Anonymous No.1614077]

Anyone have any experience printing molds for aluminum casting?

[Anonymous No.1614080]

>>1614077
You print the master and use it to produce the mold, then melt the print out. There are no printable materials that you can use for direct casting molds for use with metal.

I have done printed molds for direct casting of plastics though. And you typically have to intend for the mold to be destroyed in order for the part to be removed, and you have to use a lot of mold release.

[Anonymous No.1614089]

>>1614077
>Experience printing molds (lost PLA casting)
Yes
>Experience actually casting aluminium
Soon.jpg

I'm doing this in cooperation with a location artsy casting guy. He's only just getting into printing, I found him because I need to have pic related cast in either bronze or aluminium. His first experiments gave a 2% shrink factor, so I use cura to scale the models to 102% before printing. I'm supposed to go down there this week, will post ITT when I get results.

[Anonymous No.1614127]

>>1614089
102 * 98 != 100.
Just letting you know.

[Anonymous No.1614129]

>>1614127
I know the mistake I made, but I refuse to apologise because in the end I was still correct. Just not very helpful.
1.02*0.98 != 1

[Anonymous No.1614136]

>>1614129
1.0204*0.98=1
Only critical part of the print is the center bore, being 50mm
(1.0204-1.02)*50=0.02mm
So by only scaling to 2% instead of 2.04% I would be off by 0.02mm, and I'm damn sure my prints aren't that accurate.
To fix this, I designed the part to be 49.5mm, meaning there's 0.5mm of material left that can be hand-polished away to perfectly port-match this to the carburetor it's going on.
Finally, I doubt the artist guy is 100% accurate with his 2% measurement, it was probably a guesstimate.
For all practical purposes, in such an inaccurate process as lost PLA casting, 0.98*1.02=1.

[Anonymous No.1614140]

>>1613292
>>1613287

check the wham bam flexible surfaces, they're good up to 130°C and not that expensive

[Anonymous No.1614144]

>>1613248
Thank you for these informations, it will be put in good use.

>>1613273
>>1613248 answer's was perfect. That's what I call calibrations.

[Anonymous No.1614145]

>>1614136
Fair enough. I've never done casting like that myself, I just didn't want you printing two dozen molds and wasting a few kilos of aluminium, I myself have made such a mistake in the past and ended up with three days of wasted print time when my tourbillon didn't fit even slightly onto the reduction gear.

[Anonymous No.1614147]

>>1614080
>There are no printable materials that you can use for direct casting molds for use with metal.
There are, but they're atypical materials in 3d printing. You can print with ceramics/clays. Molds will be shit though.

[Anonymous No.1614194]

>>1613959
>how often do you use your printers?
just came home, new thing finished.

[Anonymous No.1614269]

>>1614065
the cancer fumes though

[Anonymous No.1614307]

>>1612734
No it's for thrust but I have thought about applying the research to 3d printed wind turbines. Guess I'd have to reverse everything.
>>1610569
Thanks
>>1612898
What is the difference between this and regular supports?

[Anonymous No.1614315]

>>1614307
they're way easier to remove and offer better support for organic shapes in many cases.

[Anonymous No.1614390]

>>1614315
Damn. I already printed 9 blades. Next batch.

[Anonymous No.1614426]

>>1609582
>>1609584
It's specific purpose is constructive solid geometry. If you're using it for anything that has to care about material properties, you're doing it wrong.

[Anonymous No.1614457]

>>1614269
>cancer fumes
I only have the one printer producing ABS parts. PLA is about as harmless as burning candles.

[Anonymous No.1614495]

We are moving. Marlin 2 is running on the SKR 1.3 with correct microstepping settings. Getting it set up was a bit complex, but I've got that sweet sweet 32 bit goodness. I have some TMC2208s on the way as well, excited to try those.

I've also confirmed that I'm getting issues with the octoprint connection dropping out, as well as not being able to connect to the server via my wifi network. Tomorrow I'll be trying to fix that. I've also got to get the inductive sensor working but I'm also considering just replacing that with a conventional endstop switch.

Overall, I'm not quite unhappy with what I have, but I'm certainly not thrilled with the state of development of this printer. This video comes to mind: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSsGR5UlaDg

[Anonymous No.1614564]

>>1614457
What about petg?

[Anonymous No.1614565]

>>1614457
Burning candles are cancerogen

[Anonymous No.1614613]

>>1614565
Breathing gives you cancer

[Anonymous No.1614698]

printed t-slot nuts, dremel adapter, and handle for baby's first milling

[Anonymous No.1614701]

>>1614564
>What about petg?
Not as bad when it comes to particulates and VOCs. It's not compatible with my buildplate or part designs though. PETG prints don't hold up well to press-fit stress or impact.

[Anonymous No.1614757]

Ender-3 (160€) vs. i3 Mega (~230€, as soon as it goes on sale again).
It would be my first printer. How do the two compare when it comes to build quality and most importantly, printing quality? Are 70€+ extra worth it?

[Anonymous No.1614769]

>>1614757
Ender 3 is my first one. The only reason I didnt get the i3 was the shipping price, it was higher than the printer itself.
There are lots of useful guides tutorials, mods and stuff regarding the ender, I think more than the i3 because it's more popular.
Not sure about the parts on i3, but if they're about the same you might want to save the money and buy upgrades later for the ender 3 if you want. If the i3 has an all-metal hotend maybe thats preferable.
My prints are turning out really nice, I have no reason to be quality envious of what I have seen printed with higher-end printers.

[Anonymous No.1614770]

>>1614757
Ender 3:
single z axis
i3:
dual z axis
fancy touchscreen
both:
alu frame
only belt driven x and y axis
I don't think the difference is worth 70€.

[Anonymous No.1614773]

>>1614757
Given that I just bought an Anycubic Chiron and I'm quite happy with it and their customer service, I'd recommend the I3 Mega. However, it offers very little tangible benefits over the Ender, which is the goto starter printer. Value is worse on the i3, both will be fine, I'd buy whichever you can afford with money left over for parts and filament.

[Anonymous No.1614783]

I used to print with ABS all the time, now I have a 35-40h print ahead of me that requires PLA and all of the build volume. Trying to get my Chiron dialed in so this long print doesn't fail - what would you guys change?

Settings:
Stock Chiron, red 1.75mm Real PLA filament, sliced in Cura 3.6
0.8mm nozzle
0.3 mm layer height
Temperature: 210 over 50C for #1, 200 over 50C for #2&3
2 wall lines (1.6mm), 4 top/bottom layers (1.2mm)
25% infill (Cubic subdivision)
0 to 100% fan in 4 layers
95% flow for #2, 100% flow for #2&3
60mm/s infill speed
60mm/s wall speed for #1&2, 40mm/s for #3
30mm/s top/bottom speed
1500/10 acceleration/jerk

[Anonymous No.1614785]

>>1614495
Very nice. Have you had any problems with bolting your linear rails to your aluminum extrusion? As I understand it, the rails are only as straight as whatever you bolt them to, and extrusion tends to not be very straight, nor held to tight tolerances.

[Anonymous No.1614820]

Hello, I want a second 3d printer and I'm thinking about building it :
Ultimaker-like
I want it small and fast ( 200mm *200mm*250mm, at least 60mm/s )
Bowden, dual extruder, original e3d v6 for reliability
24v instead of 12v ( less amp in wires, more reliable ? )
No heated bed
Silent
PLA Only
I already have a mega 2560

Is it doable for 200€ ? Will I be disappointed ?

[Anonymous No.1614825]

>>1614820
>dual extruder
>original e3d v6
So you'd have two v6s then or are you thinking of something like the e3d chimera?
In any case that's half your budget already.

[Anonymous No.1614832]

>>1614820
>fast
>Silent
hmm, no

[Anonymous No.1614835]

>>1614832
? the two aren't opposites. Fast and accurate are opposites in consumer-grade printers, but fast and quiet is very attainable. You need:
>low mass x/y carriages
>Z axis on bed
>decent linear rails
>ballscrew instead of leadscrew
>stepper dampers
>silent hotend fan
>quality belts
>quality steppers

[Anonymous No.1614840]

>>1614825
Yes my bad but still, I think 200€ will be a little tight. I think I should aim for 300€ at least

>>1614832
why ? with the correct motor driver and a semi-air-tight structure

>>1614835
>low mass x/y carriages
I've picked the bowden for that
>Z axis on bed
Ultimaker-like, good for me
>decent linear rails
how about usual ones with igus ?
>ballscrew instead of leadscrew
will it really make a different for the z axis ?
>stepper dampers
Yes
>silent hotend fan
noctua
>quality belts
>quality steppers
I thought it was all about drivers

[Anonymous No.1614845]

>>1614840
Smooth rods are the worst linear motion option, they're both loud (even with polymer bushings) and suffer from a great deal of deflection unless you go for 10-12mm diameter. They're usually ground to good tolerances, but there's no telling how straight they actually are until you get them. Linear rails are both the quietest and the smoothest, V-slot rollers are quiet, but inaccurate because they wear out quickly and are only as accurate as your aluminum extrusion is straight, which is usually not very. Even chink rails are better than the alternatives, as long as you clean and pack the bearings with super lube first.
>will it really make a different for the z axis ?
Instead of threading a screw into a threaded metal hole, you're threading it through a hole filled with recirculating bearings. It might not make a huge difference in loudness because it moves so slowly, but it's worth the tiny increase in price for smoothness alone.
>quality belts
low quality belts that stretch can end up humming at high speeds, you want something that doesn't hum at all. If you're in NA, order your belts from sdp-si, not only do they sell closed-loop belts, but they're good quality and reasonably priced.
>quality steppers
I suppose it's not such a big deal.

[Anonymous No.1614863]

>>1614845
Thanks anon, i'm going to take all of that in consideration and also make my budget bigger

[Anonymous No.1614876]

>>1614820
>Ultimakers kinematics
Decent
>60mm/s
Easy
>Dual extruder E3D
Good
>24v instead of 12
Only really going to notice if you run a 60W heater in a V6 Volcano, and actually run it hard.
>No heated bed
No you fucking idiot. Just no. Fucking no. Even for PLA only, heated glass is easy mode for reliably sticking prints.
>Doable for 200€
If you're a dutchfag, gimme some of the stuff you're smoking. Hell no.

[Anonymous No.1614878]

>>1614863
another thing I want to suggest is that you forget chink extrusion - Misumi extrusion is $10/meter (for 2020), better tolerances and straighter than anything you can buy from china, and they'll cut it to the lengths you require with .5mm precision.

[Anonymous No.1614887]

So move doesn't work for this part, is there a way to move this top ledge down to the 13/18/13 I need without redesigning the whole thing? It would keep the top flat, but have a offset from the left and right side, with the top being and an angle instead of flat like it is.

[Anonymous No.1615086]

>>1614887
>It would keep the top flat
>with the top being and an angle instead of flat
I can't tell what you're saying. Also, add more views, there's a few different ways your part could be interpreted

[Anonymous No.1615095]

Day 5, I've corrected an issue with my wiring where I routed 5V to the extruder fan and the inductive sensor and have since corrected that to be 24V. I've got all three axes homing now, and I've installed the TCM2208s. The machine is now eerily quiet, I'm very happy to have that since I'll be running this overnight fairly frequently.

Bed leveling on this thing is a fucking joke, and without this mod: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3599558 I would not want to attempt it. I'm still waiting for some hardware to complete it but may just run to Menard's tomorrow to get the required M4 screws and get it set up sooner.

The only thing right now preventing me from getting printing is that my octoprint constantly drops connection to the controller. I've tried a different port on the orange pi, I've tried a different cable, slower baudrate, no luck so far. Frustrating to say the least. To top it off, I get 'connection refused' when trying to connect to the server from my network. I'm doing a fresh install on the orange pi and we'll see if that fixes it, but I haven't narrowed it down to a problem with the pi or the controller. I've got another octoprint server for my maker select v2, I may try setting it up on that instead and seeing if the problem persists with a raspberry pi.

[Anonymous No.1615097]

>>1614785
I didn't see issues with straightness, but I did have issues ensuring that they were parallel and spaced correctly, specifically getting the spacing correct when tightening down the gantry/making sure the gantry is square to the X-axis direction.

[Anonymous No.1615098]

>>1615086
I had already figured out what I needed, or at least a way to do it.

[Anonymous No.1615100]

>>1615098
Posted wrong image, but gives the idea. I was also able to figure out how to make changes to the constrained sketch by simply deleting the lines and recreating them at a proper length. As just trying to edit things like the fillet ended up changing the entire sketch.

[Anonymous No.1615229]

New thread
>>1615228

[Anonymous No.1615371]

>>1615097
That's good to hear. If you face problems with it in the future, Misumi actually makes extrusion with precision-milled surfaces for exactly this purpose, it's not even much more expensive than regular extrusion.

[Anonymous No.1615989]

>>1609517
I never knew this existed and now I want it.

[Anonymous No.1616215]

>>1613219
>>1613225
Not bad. I'd recomend a coat or two of plastidip on the outside, to fill in the imperfections, and give it a nicer finish

[Anonymous No.1616947]

>>1615095
bro don't run 24V to the inductive sensor without a voltage divider or optocoupler