/3DPG/

[Anonymous No.1600285]

A Folly of Footfags and Failure Edition

Old thread: >>1595273

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy

>Need help with prints? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 7-1-2019]
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free:
https://www.blender.org/
https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/

[Anonymous No.1600287]

>>1600264
Hatchbox is a reliable/consistent brand. I've also had great results with Ziro.

[Anonymous No.1600288]

Repost from old thread:
What's the thread for the bed adjustment on an Ender 3?

[Anonymous No.1600292]

I have seen a 3d printer on the news where there is a lot of powder involved, like when the prints done they would pull out the finished part but there would be dust all around it, what is that?`

[Anonymous No.1600293]

>>1600292
SLS printer or Selective Laser Sintering, its how they print in metal. An arm goes over and applies a thing fresh layer of a metal powder for each layer, and a laser melts the powder to the previous layer.

[Anonymous No.1600297]

>>1600293

nice

[Anonymous No.1600320]

>>1600203

What do the green numbers indicate?

[Anonymous No.1600327]

>>1600292
>>1600293
With that description it might be any of pic related.

[Anonymous No.1600353]

>>1600320
price per volume

[Anonymous No.1600391]

I have a Mendelmax 2.0 which Ive been keeping in storage for a long while

https://reprap.org/wiki/MendelMax_2
BOM: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1c2FuI54To9n3-B8kpy7R90FIOVTmaRYomc-zzNf7t-0/edit#gid=0

I was thinking about upgrading it to PrusaMK3 hardware, namely the Board, Hotend, heatbed and power supply.

Would this be doable? Are there any conaiderations I have to look out for?

The reasons I'd like to try this out are:
Less investment than a full MK3 kit
Higher accuracy than the MM2.0
The MM2.0 frame seems sturdier than the stock MK3

I'm assuming I can reuse most of the other hardware from the original MM2.0 kit, like the stepper motors. (Nema17)

I dont mind about the loss in printvolume.

Any input would be greatly apreciated.

[Anonymous No.1600398]

>>1600391
>namely the Board, Hotend, heatbed and power supply.
How would you get increased accuracy just by replacing these parts?

[Anonymous No.1600401]

Ok, since it wasnt answered in the last thread, somebody know where to get the fat sad cat stl?

[Anonymous No.1600415]

>>1600398
Increased accuracy as compared to the original MM2.0 board and hotend.

[Anonymous No.1600417]

>>1600415
How? Because of the microstepping meme?

[Anonymous No.1600418]

>>1600417
Sorry, I should have been more specific.

The Rambo board sometimes skips layers and suffers from random errors, but the MK3 board doesn't seem to show these symptoms anywhere near as much. (zero, in my case after 400 hours of printing)

The heatbed rails on the MM2.0 have a lot more friction than those used on the MK3 bed. This lessens the heat generated in the stepper motor.

The extruder from the MK3 has much better cooling than the original extruder from the MM2.0, and suffers a lot less blockages.

Microstepping and trinamics aren't really a concern for me.

[Anonymous No.1600419]

>>1600418
>The Rambo board sometimes skips layers and suffers from random errors,
Have you tried updating the firmware and increasing stepper current?

[Anonymous No.1600423]

>>1600419
Currently on this firmware:
[RAMB0 1.2] [Mechanical Endstops] [E3D] [GLCD]

The errors happen regardless of me printing from the SD card, or from my PC. Back when I used the printer more frequently, this was a known issue discussed in the Mendelmax IRC channel.

Which reminds me of a couple other features I'd benefit from in doing this upgrade:
no need for endstops.

plus the MK3 heatbed is a lot less trouble to use than the MM2.0's glass bed.

[Anonymous No.1600424]

Does anybody know of any services that use that Mimaki 3DUJ-553 printer yet? I wanna try stuff out for a small print run.

[Anonymous No.1600428]

>>1600200
Guy who made the original OP here, not much has changed in the last few months in the segment below 1000 USD.

>>1600203
Gonna disagree here, I just bought an Anycubic Chiron, it prints pretty damn well (even in ABS) and offers a lot of build volume for your dollar. If I had a CR-10 to directly compare it to I might actually change the OP to suggest it as a better alternative below 500 USD.
I would seriously suggest a Chiron if you're shopping for a CR-10S4, although there's no real competition for the CR-10 S5. Yet.

>>1600203
>>1600235
>Whatre the green numbers supposed to mean?
Dollars per build volume, which is a stupid metric - volume per dollar make a lot more sense, pic related.

[Anonymous No.1600432]

>>1600428
Updated it with all the printers suggested in the OP - this clearly shows that more expensive printers are bad value by some metrics. Any other printers to add? Can anyone think of a better printer, in terms of volume per dollar, than the Chiron?

[Anonymous No.1600435]

>>1600288
M3

[Anonymous No.1600525]

>>1600424
We bought a Mimaki printer at work but I couldn't convince my boss to buy one of their 3D printers too. He said that if I came up with the last zero of the price he'd consider it, please donate to me on GoFundMe.

[Anonymous No.1600533]

>>1600432
Where can you get an AC megaS for $210? That's over $100 off the regular price

[Anonymous No.1600539]

>>1600432

Why should "volume per dollar" be an important metric? If your printer can only produce mangled lasagna looking prints, who cares whether the volume is big or not... Sounds like a marketing thing they pulled out of their ass

[Anonymous No.1600543]

>>1600539
That's a very important metric for me desu, since I'm looking into big simple prints for my projects. It's almost like 3D printers allow themselves to be used in a diverse set of applications where some printers are better suited for specific tasks than others and not all metrics will be viewed equally by all users

[Anonymous No.1600553]

>>1600435
Which thread pitch? 0.5?

[Anonymous No.1600607]

Just printed my first part ever (on a stock Ender-3). It's a gear with a 3 mm vertical hole and a 2 mm horizontal hole. However, both holes came out roughly 0.6 mm smaller than modeled. Is there something I can do about it, or should I simply increase the diameter of the holes in my model?

[Anonymous No.1600615]

>>1600607
Did you calibrate your steppers?

[Anonymous No.1600619]

>>1600615
Didn't even knew that was a thing, the printer only came with assembly instructions and nothing else. I'll do some googling.

[Anonymous No.1600640]

>>1600607
A hole being smaller than spec is better than it being larger than spec, as you can open it up a bit.
Look up "Maximum Material Condition".

[Anonymous No.1600644]

>>1600607
You gotta test and learn those tolerances. Print a tolerance test or model some varying diameter holes yourself. I got an ender 3 too and if I want to make a hole for a 2mm screw, it's gonna be 2.4mm wide. Or 2.2mm if I want the screw to tap into it.

[Anonymous No.1600659]

>>1600644
This
Even with every other setting perfect, I need a .3mm offset on all interior holes to meet planned spec. I just work it into my flow when modeling.

[Anonymous No.1600711]

>>1600268
Use a layer height of 0.08. You'll see lines in cura if you get really close, but the actual print will be quite smooth.
Pro tip: In preview mode, change the view type to show the line type. Mine has outer walls in red and inner walls as yellow. As a general rule, if I can see the yellow peeking out from behind the red on a sloped surface, then I know the layer lines will show obvious stepping, so I need to reduce the layer height.

[Anonymous No.1600797]

>>1600711

ty anon for answering this question from the previous thread.

[Anonymous No.1600800]

>>1600711

forgot to say the lines are completely gone now.

[Anonymous No.1600985]

>>1600533
Pic related.

>>1600539
Some people want finely detailed, small models and are better off with SLA printers or small, accurate FDM machines. Some people, like me, print parts for engineering purposes where fine details don't matter and you want a cheap, reliable printer with a big volume. Most chinkshit printers will do fine for the latter, especially if you do some proper finetuning to get quality results. Volume per dollar and print speed per dollar are also important metrics for people with print farms.

[Anonymous No.1600986]

>>1600985
Never bought anything from Aliexpress, have this stigma in my head that's they're less trustworthy than some crackhead in an ally.

[Anonymous No.1600988]

>>1600986
They're unironically more trustworthy than buying from chink sellers on amazon.

[Anonymous No.1600990]

>>1600985
>+ 121$ shipping

[Anonymous No.1600994]

>print my first benchy on new printer
>its super clean
n-nani?

[Anonymous No.1600996]

>>1600990
Dammit, I thought I had free shipping on.

[Anonymous No.1600999]

>>1600996
>>1600990

[Anonymous No.1601002]

>>1600999
Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus would be 276 1000l/usd

[Anonymous No.1601004]

>>1601002
>12.5L build volume
>190 USD + 65 USD shipping
I think your maths are off. Also
>Buying deltashit
>Ever

[Anonymous No.1601005]

How small imperfections are worth calibrating? My extruder is underextruding by 2.4% (I measured out 50 mm, and then extruded 25 mm before measuring again) and I'm awaiting the results from my 20x20x20 mm cube that I'm currently printing.

Would I risk making it worse if I'm trying to balance out such a minor (?) error?

[Anonymous No.1601006]

>>1601005
2% underextrusion will likely be visible, I'd try and reduce it to below 1%. Fix your hardware first, and only then should you fix issues by modifying your slicing (setting it to overextrude).

[Anonymous No.1601022]

Why does this happen?
Filament diameter is fine, i even have an extrusion multiplier set to 1.1.
Nozzle is 0.4mm, not clogged, 0.2 layer height, 0.5 extrusion width.

[Anonymous No.1601050]

>>1601022
Calibrate your extruder. Put the multiple and the width back to normal and then check your wall overlap

[Anonymous No.1601120]

>>1601022
What is your speed though?

[Anonymous No.1601159]

What's wrong with my initial layer? Could my PLA have absorbed too much moisture? It's been out in the open air for a couple months.

[Anonymous No.1601163]

>>1601004
>shittier kinematics
you mean better kinematics? because that's the reason deltas can do way higher speeds than cartesians

[Anonymous No.1601164]

>>1601163
>because that's the reason deltas can do way higher speeds than cartesians
[citation needed]
Bigdeltaguy here, it struggles over 80mm/s, while you can get an UM to do 100+ if you tune it correctly. Delta's don't get higher speeds, they can achieve higher jerk and acceleration which may give you higher speeds if you set your slicer properly. Besides, the main limit on print speed is your hotend, not your kinematics since volume flow is dictated by nozzle size, layer height (and thus how much heat your hotend can generate) and only then print speed.

[Anonymous No.1601177]

>>1601159
>Could my PLA have absorbed too much moisture

It could have, but that's not what's causing your underextrusion. Judging by the amount of dust on your fan, your hotend is likely clogged.

>>1601022
>0.5 extrusion width.
You sure you set that right? Like is 0.5 an instruction to print overlaps in your slicer and not one to space the lines further apart?
Your initial squish layer went down ok so you might just be printing too fast for material viscosity at whatever temp.

[Anonymous No.1601181]

>>1601177
>Judging by the amount of dust on your fan, your hotend is likely clogged.
It's just been sitting around for a few months, I only just started printing again. How would I tell if the hotend is clogged?

[Anonymous No.1601182]

>>1600986

Do not buy from them. I will show actual screenshots of the dispute i have going with them on an order I placed over 60 days ago. The 60 day guarantee of having your money back is bullshit and they will make you jump through a ton of hoops until you get your money back. I had ten days left so I decided to extend buyer protection, but it was the worst mistake because i now have to wait an additional 30 days, yea that part was my fault, but it's been over 60 days now and this shits never going to arrive and I doubt I will ever see my money again. Just got sick of the entire ordeal of trying to get back your money. Just pay the extra and buy it locally.

[Anonymous No.1601191]

>>1601182
Unfortunately there are scammers among honest retailers and the system they have is inherently bullshit because the 30 day or 60 day guarantee is just on the edge of how long it takes to ship something from china. Also if a product starts racking up less than 4/5 star reviews then they just take it down and relist it.

That being said though, I have ordered some ok bicycle parts from retailers with good reviews and got all of them in a timely manner.

[Anonymous No.1601194]

>>1601181
You'll hear and see the extruder skipping if it gets bad enough; it sounds like some one tapping a wooden desk with their knuckle.

Regardless youtube how to do a cold pull and do it. Kind of hard to do on the ender 3 since you have to pull the bowden out of the extruder while leaving some filament sticking out of it, usually it just breaks instead of pulling out the crap. Do not attempt to take the bowden out of the hotend unless you want to have to learn how to reset the nozzle.

[Anonymous No.1601197]

>>1601191

I doubt he is a scammer but if he is he is scamming a lot of people because he does have good feedback.

What I disliked is how aliexpress makes you jump through hoops and if its someone who is not used to ordering from them, then their buyer protection will come and go and they wont be able to get their money.

This is the response after my dispute, now mind you it's been well over 60 days now but since I stupidly extended it, had no choice really. I have to wait longer.

Response

>Please pay more attention to the tracking information. If the package arrive at the delivery office, please contact post office to pick up in time. Buyer should be responsible for any consequences of failure to collect items in time.

Pay more attention? The tracking # is right there, let them google it or track it themselves, there has been no updates since it left China.

>According to the shipping information, the package has been shipped out by the seller and it is in transit currently. Since your package is still in protection time, please be patience waiting for the package. Any new update of your package, we will keep you updated timely or you can simply track it by go to "My orders"-"All Orders" and click "Track order"

More time to waste.

I'm just going to do a charge back because it's not a $4 part here.

Aliexpress never again.

[Anonymous No.1601206]

>>1601181
heat up the hotend and try extruding some plastic by hand, if it curls as it comes out then your nozzle might be clogged

[Anonymous No.1601207]

>>1601197
i bought my ender 3 from the official store on aliexpress. it came earlier than expected and arrived by UPS, you just have to pay attention to what store you're buying from

[Anonymous No.1601208]

>>1601207

sadly what i was trying to buy could not be found anywhere else on the internet, checked and could not find it anywhere else for sale. actually the whole point of me getting a 3d printer is because pic related did not arrive. I now have an ender 3 coming instead, it will be here this week and shipped from USA.

[Anonymous No.1601209]

>>1601164
>Bigdeltaguy here, it struggles over 80mm/s
On one that's 10 times bigger than the UM?
Deltas are capable of insane speeds but you need a strong reinforced frame.
For example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ce6DgGzX9Kw

>Besides, the main limit on print speed is your hotend
I think you claimed that before even though it's nonsense.
It's really hard to reach your hotend limit unless you use a huge nozzle size.

[Anonymous No.1601210]

>>1601197
If he's not a scammer then it will probably arrive randomly; they don't tell you that their 'tracking' basically stops once it reaches an airport in china. So much of these types of problems can be resolved by aliexpress giving a shit and making people aware of what exactly to expect instead of pretending that they're the same as ordering from amazon or a domestic retailer.

[Anonymous No.1601217]

>>1601182
>>1601191
>>1601197
I mean, at this point I trust Banggood, never had an issue with them but have read multiple stories from people who have. They dont pull products down to get rid of bad reviews, they just delete the review, Ive even seen a few people that "mysteriously" cant rate something lower than 4 stars.

[Anonymous No.1601219]

I see a lot of people buying the Ender 3 from ebay store named 3d-printer-online who is selling a bunch of them as used for $155 shipped. What's the catch? Are these old versions? It doesn't say on the ebay item page. Just that it's used and has sold over 400 of them.

[Anonymous No.1601251]

Ok /3dpg/ please help a fellow anon, I'm trying to fix underextrusion problems of my brother's wanhao duplicator i3 plus, pic related (while upgrading the crap sheet metal plate to a new flatter one)

Basically it prints fine when using the wanhao-branded version of cura that came with the printer, but underextrudes like hell when using normal cura. Wanhao cura is utter shit and is missing a lot of settings so I really want to get rid of it.
So I sliced the same model (a 40mm cube) with both programs, and found out the wanhao cura actually extrudes a lot more (66% more). This is taken from layer 1:

Wanhao gcode:
;TYPE:WALL-OUTER
G1 F900 X80.2 Y119.8 E23.60933
G1 X80.2 Y80.2 E24.92643
G1 X119.8 Y80.2 E26.24353
G1 X119.8 Y119.8 E27.56063

Normal cura gcode:
;TYPE:WALL-OUTER
G1 F900 X119.785 Y80.215 E39.25690
G1 X119.785 Y119.785 E40.66513
G1 X80.215 Y119.785 E42.07337
G1 X80.215 Y80.215 E43.48160

What can cause this? Is there an obvious setting I'm forgetting or should I just up the flow to 166%?

[Anonymous No.1601253]

>>1601251
Check your filament width settings in the printer management bit, and also in the material section of the actual slicing settings pane.

£1 says it's set to 2.85mm

[Anonymous No.1601265]

>>1601209
>That speed
FFFFFFUUUUUCK
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NP6DXoNKITc

[Anonymous No.1601269]

Orthotics MK2, TPU edition. First print with this material after some small calibration tests, I wonder what makes some areas puff up like that and not others.

[Anonymous No.1601273]

>>1601269
Pillowing; usually it's either not enough cooling or not enough top layers. Most of the time I fix it with another top layer, but I haven't printed flat objects like that with TPU so I don't know if it would help here.

[Anonymous No.1601274]

>>1601251
Here is my cura profile for the maker select v2 (identical printer rebranded)

https://tmpfiles.org/download/18000/hatchboxPLA0.2Glassbed.curaprofile

This'll only be downloadable for an hour, if you need it again let me know and I'll find somewhere permanent to put it

[Anonymous No.1601277]

>>1601274
>>1601251
And machine settings

[Anonymous No.1601294]

>>1601269
This thing is shiny as fuck and stiffer than I had hoped, but still leagues better than my old PLA ones which disintegrated into shards.

[Anonymous No.1601297]

>>1601294
>>1601269
What brand TPU are you using? Ninjaflex (at least, the color I have) is a bit less shiny, if you're worried about that

[Anonymous No.1601326]

>>1601297
Anycubic. This is going to be going inside my shoe so appearances don't matter; only how much it flexes.

[Anonymous No.1601360]

I have a print that will consume 120g of material. I have some leftover spool ends that I want to use up. Let's say I want to do two filament changes based on how much material I have left; can Cura tell me at which specific layer I will have used a specific length or weight of filament? I would like to have a better way than estimating the layer height by looks at which to stop the machine to change out the filament. E.g. I would have two filament changes, one after 50g and another after an additional 40g

[Anonymous No.1601371]

>>1601360
You could remove the filament from the spools and weight it on a kitchen scale, but the easier option, and what I do when I have a bunch of tiny lengths of filament to use up, is to simply hang a cowbell on the filament before where it feeds into the extruder. When the filament is about to run out, the cowbell drops and makes a noise, and I simply start feeding the new filament in without stopping the printer. There's a bit of stringing for a while, since retractions don't work while the two lengths of filament aren't connected, but it works well enough anyway.

A better option is to fuse the filament lengths together. What you do is take a small length of bowden tube and a soldering iron. Set the temperature on the iron to about 240 degrees, touch the filament ends to the tip, and then quickly feed them into opposite ends of the bowden tube and press them together for a few seconds.

[Anonymous No.1601389]

looking at some open sourced stuff out there where a 3d printer can be used. some of the most impressive stuff i have seen is inmoov. i would like to know if there are more out there, something with high fidelity.

what are the best open sourced stuff that you can create using a 3d printer with other disciplines?

[Anonymous No.1601395]

>>1601005
>20x20x20mm cube
If you're attempting to calibrate your X,Y, and Z axes you're wasting your time. The larger the test area, the more accurate the result. Here, I uploaded a little something I use to test my axes.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3594709

[Anonymous No.1601401]

>>1601395
if you make it 150mm you can use the full accurate length of most digital calipers.

[Anonymous No.1601403]

>>1601389
I printed vid related, modded it to fit https://amzn.com/B00MATOJTM and was quite pleased, but the threads printed very tight and had to be worked. I also had to use a ported end and feed wire through since I don't have a bluetooth amp.
https://youtu.be/3cyOi3ThyPg?t=490

[Anonymous No.1601405]

Not directly 3D printing related but, does anyone know how to fix this stl problem properly ?
It's only one node who went for a walk, but I can't manage to select it on Netfabb to move it and I can't find a tutorial for that :<

[Anonymous No.1601406]

>>1601401
Long story short, I didn't believe anything greater than 100mm would be necessary. You could scale it easy enough, and the walls going from 2mm to 3mm might just hold it steady enough to print.

[Anonymous No.1601409]

>>1601405
>Select wandering vertex
>delete wandering vertex
>select the new edge between the two vertices that are now connected
>cut edge in two making a new vertex
>shift this vertex to where you want it
>tesselate by hand if you're a perfectionist

[Anonymous No.1601416]

>>1601409
How do I select the wandering vertex ?

[Anonymous No.1601418]

>>1601416
In netfabb? Not a clue. Are you willing to upload the STL?

[Anonymous No.1601420]

>>1601418
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2798487

It's supposed to be cleaned tho

[Anonymous No.1601422]

>>1601418

select wandering vertex.

have you guys started writing poems

[Anonymous No.1601425]

want this bad but no way im paying that amount.

https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/miniatures/figurines/robocop2-movie-cain-action-figure-3d-printable-model

[Anonymous No.1601436]

>>1601420
I see it. Right there on the mouthpiece. Uploaders should fucking test their work. Here's one without that problem.
https://files.catbox.moe/r7ilyb.stl
Problem gone. I also ran a cleanup on Wings' default settings. It collapses stupidly short edges and isolated vertices. It dropped another 200 polygons after that.

[Anonymous No.1601438]

>>1601436
>https://files.catbox.moe/r7ilyb.stl
love ya

[Anonymous No.1601442]

>>1601436
oh shit, look what i've just found on the top

[Anonymous No.1601447]

Until i've found a solution for this, I'll try to fix this shit looking surface at the top on the outside

[Anonymous No.1601576]

>>1601182
Bought my Chiron from AliExpress, the bed coating broke within a few weeks, contacted them through AE, I got a new bed shipped within three days. I did not expect chinkshit to provide customer service at all but it surprised me.

If you buy a printer from AE, make sure it's from a relatively local warehouse and that you order it from the official store of the brand you're buying from. There are several sellers offering Anycubic, Creality, etc. But I'd only trust the ones that have huge sales volume - don't buy printers that only have <100 sold.

[Anonymous No.1601579]

>>1601209
Roughly 100 times bigger by volume. Even if you have a strong reinforced frame you can't really run 300mm/s. That video you showed probably never reached 300mm/s because there are settings called jerk and acceleration, look them up. Only newbies think "hurrdurr high print speed in slicer = fast print" when in reality acceleration settings will bottleneck a delta as well.

Once you start living in the church of 1.2mm nozzles and 1.0mm layer heights, you too shall receive enlightenment. I have already gone beyond the 20mm3/s recommended by E3D for their Volcano with a 0.8mm nozzle, 0.4mm layer height and 65mm/s print speed, but the thing will chooch up to 40mm3/s in my setup. For reference, if that Kossel really was printing at 300mm/s (it wasn't), with a 0.4mm nozzle and a 0.2mm layer height (looks about right), that's 24mm3/s. A standard 30W hotend will run into thermal runaway protection if you shove that much material in.

[Anonymous No.1601627]

I just bought a 3D printer - an Ender 3, and my print quality isn't perfect (though I'm not expecting it to be either). What do I have to do in order to increase the print quality as much as possible? This is my first printer, and I know nothing about 3D printing.

I tried printing some gears, but the teeth weren't uniform in size/sharpness, and the holes were too small compared to what I designed in my model.

Are there any tests that I can run in order to check my calibration? And what components so I have to calibrate other than the bed?

[Anonymous No.1601629]

>>1601579
>That video you showed probably never reached 300mm/s because there are settings called jerk and acceleration
Definitely possible, I just picked the first video I saw. Here's someone experimenting with high speed and high acceleration but it didn't have a nice video to go with it: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2941886

>For reference, if that Kossel really was printing at 300mm/s (it wasn't)
The video didn't even claim that. It said the TRAVEL speed was 300mm/s, not the speed where it's actually pushing out filament.
>A standard 30W hotend will run into thermal runaway protection if you shove that much material in.
A 50W heater cartridge costs 2$. I don't even print that fast because PETG hates speed but I got one just so it can heat up quicker and compensate for shitty part cooling better.

[Anonymous No.1601646]

>>1601629
>It said the TRAVEL speed was 300mm/s, not the speed where it's actually pushing out filament.
My bad then, that means it's only printing at about 16mm3/s.

>A 50W heater cartridge costs 2$
And then you're still stuck with a standard V hotend which means there's not enough area to transfer that 50W into the material to keep up with 20mm3/s.
>PETG hates speed
How can I print the stuff at almost 40 mm3/s then?

[Anonymous No.1601649]

Guys i need help, somehow mymega2560 is not recognized anymore out of nowhere. It was printing very well, and it just shited itself. I reprogrammed mega16u2 onboard via ISP with arduino combined hex, and still showing UNKNOWED DEVICE in win7 manager.
I also reflashed mega2560 and still shit.
Is it garbage now?

[Anonymous No.1601652]

>>1601646
>there's not enough area to transfer that 50W into the material to keep up with 20mm3/s.
You mentioned yourself you're pushing double that.
What recommendation are you going by anyway?
All I could find was this simple series of tests done to promote their new SuperVolcano hotend:
https://e3d-online.com/blog/2019/02/28/supervolcano/

Which tells you extremely little. What cartridge did they use (official E3D V6 uses 25W as standard)? What filament diameter? What temperatures? etc.
All this shit can make a difference.
It doesn't even tell you why they settled on those speeds for each hotend. And they have every reason low-ball it there.

[Anonymous No.1601654]

>>1601652
>You mentioned yourself you're pushing double that.
Because I'm using a Volcano, which has more heat transfer area.
>What recommendation are you going by anyway?
The one they mailed me when I asked how far you can push a regular and super Volcano, I wanted to know if it was worth adding this much mass to a delta (which delta's are allergic to) in order to increase print speed. They said ~1200mm3/m (20mm3/s) is the upper limit of a regular Volcano depending on your setup, but our setup seems to care very little about their recommendations. With 1.75mm PETG filament through a 60W V6 Volcano at 220 degrees Celsius, I'm getting 36mm3/s no problem.

[Anonymous No.1601657]

>>1601654
Then why are you so incredulous when someone else goes double that recommendation when you yourself done it without problems?

[Anonymous No.1601662]

>>1601657
Because this:
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ce6DgGzX9Kw
Is not a Volcano and I've seen regular E3D-style hotends with 30W heaters crap out below 10mm3/s and 50W heaters don't solve the problem because the melt zone (finally found the word I was looking for) is too short, hence the Volcano which is a regular V6 on it's side with a bigger heater and a bigger melt zone.

[Anonymous No.1601667]

>>1601662
>Is not a Volcano and I've seen regular E3D-style hotends with 30W heaters crap out below 10mm3/s
Even E3Ds own tests for V6 work absolutely fine 10mm3/s (see the link I posted before).
I don't know what you've seen but if it craps out below 10mm3/s you're doing something wrong.

[Anonymous No.1601714]

>>1601627
1. Make sure everything is square and secure. Level the x gantry, make sure the eccentric nuts are tight but not over tight (the bolt through the wheel should be tight so that the eccentric nut can't loosen).
2. Calibrate your extruder.
3. Level your bed hot. Bring both bed and hot end upto your desired printing temperatures, make sure their is no errant plastic clinging to your nozzle, then level the bed with the paper method. Do multiple circuits, levelling one corner can affect the others.

The first upgrade you want to do is install motor dampers to quieten it down.
The second upgrade is to print yourself a petsfang for a 5015 blower, then install it with a blower and a 200uf 16v capacitor.

[Anonymous No.1601777]

>>1601714
>The first upgrade you want to do is install motor dampers to quieten it down.
Newer model Ender 3s have non-removable pulleys on the motors, so unless you have a gear-puller, you either have to replace the motor entirely, or use one of the mounts that mounts the motor backwards but also causes them to overheat.

[Anonymous No.1601793]

>>1601714
>>1601777
>new guy complains about accuracy
>first suggestion is to install rubbery shit to make the motors even less accurate

Guys really.

>>1601627
Print quality and precision/accuracy are different things. Reassemble the printer while making sure the axes are all square to each other, tighten the belts, check for any binding on any of the axes. Some of the problems come from the warped print bed, some of which can be as bad as a few mm out in spots. The distance each motor moves can be adjusted in firmware if they really require calibration.

You should be aware though, it's a 3d printer and not a precision milling machine, it flexes and small deviations in angle between the axes can greatly affect how accurate it is. The orientation of your features and the movement of the head will also cause artifacts from inertia.

[Anonymous No.1601800]

Honestly, if dimensional accuracy is what you need the most, then using belts at all is not a good idea.
Acme rods with some anti-backlash nuts or ball screws would be much better options.

[Anonymous No.1601814]

>>1601442
Uploader anon again. I see it. There's so many polygons on those ends and they are by no means "clean" at all. At the same time fixing the inside ones could change the sound of the ocarina. I'll see what I can do about the outside but I think it's best I leave the interior alone.

[Anonymous No.1601832]

>>1601442
After looking at it for a while, this is a job Wings3D is not meant to do. You should try meshmixer. There's an "intelligent" polygon reduction tool that would work wonders for those retarded ends. I tried it but I'm on Linux and running Meshmixer in Wine is being finicky.

[Anonymous No.1601841]

>>1601832
Thanks for the advice, I'll try this out

[Anonymous No.1601853]

>>1601832
Would you look at that beauty ? Used the Remesh option to fix the top, it's perfect now

[Anonymous No.1601854]

How do you guys feel about "ironing"?

[Anonymous No.1601865]

Would printed bearings with steel balls be any good?
Decent non-chink bearing balls are fairly cheap

[Anonymous No.1601872]

>>1601865
>Would printed bearings with steel balls be any good?

compared to very low-quality plastic bearings, yes. compared to the worst actual steel ball bearing ever made, a 3d printed bearing would suck ass.

[Anonymous No.1601876]

>>1601793
>first suggestion is to install rubbery shit to make the motors even less accurate
Their effect on accuracy is so negligible that it only really has an effect at super high speeds and acceleration; at which point accuracy and print quality are irrelevant anyway.

[Anonymous No.1601878]

>>1601854
Works well in some cases. Limited application though.

[Anonymous No.1601880]

>>1601878
I was wondering if ironing every so often within the print could improve layer adhesion, maybe even help prevent warping.

[Anonymous No.1601891]

>>1601880
Doubt it. You'd need a way to code it manually as well, since ironing only affects top layers.

[Anonymous No.1601895]

>>1601891
I don't see why it can't be made into a canned cycle.

[Anonymous No.1601896]

>>1601880
>improve layer adhesion
Nope
>help prevent warping
No, that's a function of applied heat and poor bed adhesion.

[Anonymous No.1601918]

>>1601649
Try reinstalling the driver. I had the same issue with my sanguino-based board, the real problem is the chip that handles USB connections. Windows sometimes insists on installing a version designed not to work with unlicensed chips, which is 99% of everything made in China.

They caused a few deaths with it the first time, when hospital equipment stopped working.

[Anonymous No.1601948]

>>1601853
See, if the moron that "cleaned" it and uploaded it to thingiverse had spent 10 minutes putting forward genuine effort your problems wouldn't have existed in the first place. Good show anon.

[Anonymous No.1601949]

>>1601891
There's an exploit on Cura, just set the number of top layers to 99999 and it'll do that to all of them. Supposedly it improves surface quality at the cost of layer adhesion, and it may cause 100% infill. I'm not sure on the second part.

[Anonymous No.1601955]

>>1601854
Ironing is fine if you want a smoother-than-usual finish but it is absolutely not a substitute for good old sanding. In fact I've found it harder to sand an ironed surface down than a regular top layer because you have less to grab into with your sandpaper.

>>1601949
This is a meme and yes, it causes 100% infill because every layer is a top layer. Just use sandpaper to get better surface finish.

[Anonymous No.1601956]

>>1601251
did you calibrate your steps for the extruder?

[Anonymous No.1601969]

>>1601955
Supposedly ironing every layer can get you fairly transparent prints with clear filament.

[Anonymous No.1601997]

>>1601876
first thing to reduce ender 3 noise is placing it on the floor instead of a table. with so much vibration and a corpus its like a speaker
cuts down noise on mine by at least 50%
>>1601627
Check if your extruder bracket is 90° and if its off you might want to bent it in shape.
After mechanical setup you have to dial in your slicer settings. Look up a guide for that.
If you feel the need for a filament guide, get a 20 pack of 608 bearing (cheap) and print a roller guide.
Sliding guides are shit as pla on pla screachs

[Anonymous No.1601999]

USE FREECAD! It's free as in freedom!

[Anonymous No.1602006]

>>1600424
Holy shit, I thought stratasys owned all the patents on photocurable inkjet. Theres probably a service bureau that runs one, expect to pay out the ass

[Anonymous No.1602018]

>>1601649
Do this >>1601918 also try to change the com port number in the driver to another and also hange the number in the programming programm, half remember doing something like that fixed a similar issue.

[Anonymous No.1602023]

so im building my first 3d printer, its an ender 3 and so far im kind of stunned at what him seeing here. i bought it used off of ebay, someone selling them in bulk for $150. Anyways where the threads go for the display panel, there was a broken screw inside it, not a tap but a screw that would not let me screw it on. if you look closely it seems as if someone tried to drill it out, anyways i got it out. luckily threads are not fucked.

granted this was used and repackaged by a 3d printing company but they never deserved this 3d printer, so many mistakes they made. went i pulled it out the thing didn't even sit flat and had to see what was going on. nothing is square so i took apart the whole thing and started rebuilding. it'll work for sure probably better than it ever did compared to the last owner. it looks nice :)

[Anonymous No.1602026]

>>1602023
Why are there metal flakes beneath the ruined screw? Did you do that?

[Anonymous No.1602038]

>>1602026

the only thing i did was glue a piece of metal on the tip and slowly unscrewed it enough where it came out.

[Anonymous No.1602043]

>>1602023
That would be why they are $150, usually they're returns. If you look around the ebay listing there's probably some fine print that says something like various mechanical and/or aesthetic problems may be present. Theres actually a youtube video around of someone who bought a returned flashforge finder off ebay. Few parts were broken and the guy had to replace the mainboard to get it working.

[Anonymous No.1602044]

>>1601999
It's also shit.

[Anonymous No.1602048]

>>1602023
>buy garbage on ebay
>garbage gets delivered
>"wtf why did I get garbage"
enders are already bottom of the barrel dirt cheap, why do dumb shits try to save even more and then bitch when they get garbage

[Anonymous No.1602049]

>>1602048

it's more than enough for what i want. fixed the sitting issue. swiped my test indicator on all sides and bed with height gauge and it's 0.

[Anonymous No.1602074]

I'm on Cura, How do i avoid getting these yellow infill ?
I want to make it a straight green like line

[Anonymous No.1602085]

>>1602074
Use concentric infill type?

[Anonymous No.1602088]

>>1601948
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3597076

Posted it on thingiverse

[Anonymous No.1602092]

>>1602074
check your start/stop settings for infill
that almost looks like a wipe feature or something

[Anonymous No.1602098]

>>1602088
How would you print it?
I'm thinking in two halves with the support on the outside and then join them together.

[Anonymous No.1602113]

>>1602085
I still get some, but less

[Anonymous No.1602115]

>>1602098
I wish I knew how to make custom tree support, but I would make trees from outside, coming inside to support holes and the top

But I don't, so I will print it with tree support inside

[Anonymous No.1602116]

>>1602115
Removing all the supports from the inside would be awful, though.

[Anonymous No.1602118]

>>1602092
Can't find the settings for that

[Anonymous No.1602124]

>>1602116
I've already done it with Slic3r default support

[Anonymous No.1602138]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRj6xzNx7P4&list=PL_Aij55CbyPk1Tw3zy8F-SIfRBZNZnnkT
Hey, that's pretty good!

[Anonymous No.1602181]

I feel like I'm doing this the hardest way possible.

Should I be using NURBS modeling or something in Maya instead or is it going to be less intuitive? I like that I can keep all my curves tangent and whatnot in Fusion 360 but that's about all I like about the process.

[Anonymous No.1602278]

>>1601880
Preventing warping is something you do partly in design, but mostly with decent part cooling and a printer enclosure.

[Anonymous No.1602279]

>>1601949
That just converts the entire print to top layers and the only effect it has on quality is slowing the print speed down by half. Even then, the ironing would only be applied to the very top layer, so you'd just be wasting time and filament.

[Anonymous No.1602295]

What should I use to fill in embossed text?
Like paint that doesn't thin when it dries.

[Anonymous No.1602301]

Does Cura have an option to gradually increase infill near top layers? There's way too much bridging going on with low infill density.

[Anonymous No.1602343]

>>1602088
>jvc poster on 3DPG
obviously looking to print a dildo

[Anonymous No.1602349]

>Haven't printed in a week
>walk down to check printer
>it's still on
>hotend has been set to 200 the whole time
I have no pic to describe how dumb I feel. At least Octopi has a plugin just for idiots like me so it won't happen twice.

[Anonymous No.1602362]

>>1602343
I haven't been on JVC for 10 years, but I like this image

[Anonymous No.1602424]

>>1602301
Yes, but it's actually the other way around. It's called "gradual infill steps" and it reduces infill percentage the lower below a top layer it is.

[Anonymous No.1602430]

>>1602349
Wouldn't you have heard the fan noise going? I did something similar with a soldering iron once but that's only because they're silent.

[Anonymous No.1602476]

>>1602181
That looks pretty good as it is... what's left, the flip down monocle thing?

[Anonymous No.1602569]

For me its PETG

ABS
>constantly warps
>needs a enclosure
>doesn't love you
>offwhite yellow tint
>toxic (gasses and relationship)
>breaks down in Sunlight like a bitch
>been passed around and probably cheats on you.

PETG
>Never warps
>Doesn't need an enclosure
>Loves and listens to you
>All the colors of the rainbow W/ transparency
>takes UV rays like a Boss
>nontoxic (and hugs you when your down)
>its transparent so its never hiding anything from you and sticks to your base plate like it sticks to your cock and only your cock.

[Anonymous No.1602605]

>>1602295
mix paint with epoxy or something

[Anonymous No.1602621]

>>1602295

[Anonymous No.1602664]

>>1602023

So.. I set it all up and it's working beautifully. I ran pic related and came out really nice. I tend to buy things only later to find out it was a gimmick, see VR for example. Bought a vive thinking it was the shit but the coolness wears off within a couple of hours. Even running numerically operated machines at work I still thought 3d printing would be a gimmick but the quality is pretty good even when having .2 layers. I can't even begin to imagine if they brought metal printing to the average person out there for cheap, you wanna talk about game changers, holy crap.

[Anonymous No.1602688]

>>1602664
Was that with the small spool that comes with the 3nder?

[Anonymous No.1602701]

>>1602688

I bought it used so it didn't come with any. It's hatchbox.

[Anonymous No.1602716]

>>1602569

PETG really is a true bro. But nobody's perfect - the heat resistance isn't as good for some applications. For those you're better off going with tempered PLA instead.

[Anonymous No.1602717]

when can we print in Graphene?

[Anonymous No.1602719]

>>1602048

Anon's just chronicling their garbage adventures, that's part of the fun of buying broken ebay junk. For 150$ it's a good bargain if you know what you're doing.

[Anonymous No.1602724]

>>1602717
Graphene impregnated polymers, right now.
I wouldn't jump too quickly on that, lest it turn out to be like turbo-asbestos for your lungs.

[Anonymous No.1602737]

i wanna be able to print something 24 hours long. are you supposed to babysit your 3d printer or are there chances of a fire?

[Anonymous No.1602741]

>>1602737
Granted I haven't printed many super large parts yet, but I find most issues that'll cause a print to fail you can diagnose as it puts down the first layer.
There are systems you can set up to remotely monitor your printers, if that's a concern.

[Anonymous No.1602749]

>>1602737

[Anonymous No.1602769]

>>1602737
Fire is pretty rare (but they do happen, particularly with the cheap Chinese printers 90% of us use). More common is the print failing halfway through and wasting a bunch of filament, possibly making a huge clump of solid plastic on the nozzle forcing you to replace parts.
I would avoid leaving the printer alone too much. Sleeping is fine, but make sure there's a fire alarm close enough to trigger quickly if the printer does catch fire. Also check in on the printer every now and then so you can cancel the print if it has failed.

I have an octopi, which is a raspberry pi running the octoprint server. This lets me queue print jobs remotely, and monitor the printer stats and watch it through a webcam. If I'm away, I can just surf to my IP adress on a browser and see what the printer is up to. There's also a plugin https://www.thespaghettidetective.com/ that can automatically cancel prints if the webcam looks like it has failed.

But anyway, to prevent fires number one solution is to turn on "thermal runaway protection", which is a safety feature the Chinese often deactivate on their printers. What it does is detect when power is applied to the nozzle or bed without the heat increasing, which indicates that something is wrong with the thermometer. It stops the printer from heating the nozzle up way higher than it should go, which is the cause for most printer fires.

[Anonymous No.1602802]

>>1602349
>hotend remains on after print is finished
>no heater timeout after X minutes
Update your firmware and/or enable those features

[Anonymous No.1602821]

Anyone here tried a Voron? I envy the stationary bed for reasons.

[Anonymous No.1602847]

>>1602821
>stationary bed
Neat
I like seeing printers with unusual kinematics, it's kind of weird that I can't remember ever seeing a cartesian FDM printer with a stationary bed in all my time in this hobby

[Anonymous No.1602849]

>>1602847
>can't remember ever seeing a cartesian FDM printer with a stationary bed
That's quite impressive considering how many there are, you sure you understand how the Voron works? Seems like a modified CoreXY, but still pretty standard.

>>1602821
And, are you sure you used the word 'stationary' right here? Seems pretty movable to me, based on the pictures I'm seeing.

[Anonymous No.1602857]

>>1602716
Do you have to use that "tough" PLA to harden it?

[Anonymous No.1602862]

>>1602849
I think they are talking about the Voron2 which is a XYZ Head None Bed, not a XY Head Z Bed.

>>1602821
However I don't understand the advantage in that.
I see why one would like X and Y not on the bed but Z is so slow, does it realy matter?

[Anonymous No.1602877]

>>1602857

No it's supposed to work with every PLA, but the special blends are supposedly better at it. Just don't burn down your kitchen etc.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vLrISrkg46g

[Anonymous No.1602884]

I have limited data on my Internet plan, if u set up an octopi with a web cam, will it constantly be uploading data or only when I log into it?

[Anonymous No.1603096]

>>1602719

Yes but so far it's all paying off. This is what I printed afterwords and I'm currently printing the large Caesar bust/pencil holder. It's about 2/3 done left it running overnight. Looks beautiful.

This is great because I already have a shit ton of paint and an aircompressor. The problem with that hobby is that the vast majority of model kits out there I dislike, this changes everything.

I wanna do something BIG after the Caesar bust. Like the life size baby trex skeleton. Or maybe build a hexapod. I like 3d printing a lot so far.

[Anonymous No.1603103]

Hello guys!

I intend to get an Ender 3 to start off the hobby, but I live in a post-soviet block house apartment where the electric outlets don't have a ground wire in them. Does this pose a fire and/or electrocution threat? This fact combined with the chinese QA has me worried.

[Anonymous No.1603105]

>>1603096
i got my ender 3 originally because i wanted to print this kit:https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-deckards-blaster-blade-runner-5694
i've been printing at a .12 layer height, everything is looking and fitting together great

[Anonymous No.1603113]

>>1603105

nice site :) and do want.

[Anonymous No.1603130]

>>1602884
It's not going to just be dumping video onto the internet because it wants to. It will only send data if you login to it remotely.

[Anonymous No.1603134]

my bed is taking a Long time to heat up to temperature. what can i do to decrease heating time that doesnt involve a new stronger heater? would an enclosure help?

[Anonymous No.1603135]

how much can you safely retract with an all metal v6 hotend?

[Anonymous No.1603137]

>>1603103
I cant think of a single incident of an ender 3 catching fire, in fact the only (production) printer I know of that had any issues was the Anet

[Anonymous No.1603138]

>>1603135
Highest I've done is 8mm, but 6-7 should be more than enough for most bowden setups.

[Anonymous No.1603139]

>>1603138
I'm already getting clogs with 4.5mm

[Anonymous No.1603141]

>>1603139
Check if your bowden tube is seated correctly then.

[Anonymous No.1603150]

>>1603139
Direct or bowden? On direct max 2mm, on bowden: the same as direct, plus how much slack (backlash) it is in bowden tube.
>>1603141
On metal hotend it should not really matter as long as the coupling holds it in place.

[Anonymous No.1603152]

>>1603137
Some guy on Reddit had the ribbon cable going to his LCD catch on fire around a year ago and there was a batch of bad XT60 terminals that were burning up, but that's all I've heard of.

[Anonymous No.1603153]

>>1603135
Depends on your setup. I've got a titan aero and any more than 2mm and it's guaranteed to clog up the hobbed gear and bugger the print.

[Anonymous No.1603206]

What print speed do you guys use for PLA?

[Anonymous No.1603231]

>>1603206
45mm/s But I'm using direct drive (can't go too fast) and printing at very low layer heights (can't go too slow).

[Anonymous No.1603281]

how would you guys go printing this comb? flat down with supports or vertical ?

[Anonymous No.1603299]

>>1603281
Split it in half against the thin part, print each half, glue it together. Position the comb blades so they only print on one side of it.

[Anonymous No.1603305]

>>1603299

thanks! i guess cura doesn't have it? downloading something called meshmixer, hopefully it can do it.

[Anonymous No.1603324]

yup that did the trick thank you :)

[Anonymous No.1603327]

>>1603206
completely depends on printer

[Anonymous No.1603328]

>>1603135
doesn't matter what kind of nozzle, your retraction can't be longer than your melt zone or your printer will jam.

[Anonymous No.1603330]

>>1603328
doesn't matter what kind of hotend*

[Anonymous No.1603347]

I want to print a Gyroid square, with supports or not? see link below. I created a raft but supports would be a nightmare to remove from this no?

https://pinshape.com/items/25517-3d-printed-gyroid-cube

[Anonymous No.1603352]

>>1603347
I don't think you need support
You print it in infills without support

[Anonymous No.1603366]

>>1603352

Cool. So it will take 3 days 15 hours. I might just do it once my hatchbox glow in the dark filament gets here.

[Anonymous No.1603381]

Recently flashed my firmware up to a marlin version that has PID Tuning in the menu, but I'm not sure what temperature to set it to. I normally print in the 190 to 220 range, with a stock creality hotend (no full metal). What do?

[Anonymous No.1603392]

>>1603305
Cura kind has it, can lower a print below the printbed in cura and that part just gets ignored. It can be pretty tricky depending if the comb blades are not flat or angled on the height plane.

[Anonymous No.1603395]

>go to download fusion 360
>you're not approved for a free trial
I swear I'm only mildly retarded, but did something change?

[Anonymous No.1603467]

>>1603206
Regular speed on my UM2 is 60mm/s, slow is 40 and fast is 80. I've gone up to 120mm/s with a 0.8mm nozzle and 0.6 layer height but that'll trip thermal runaway.

[Anonymous No.1603468]

>>1603150
>On metal hotend it should not really matter as long as the coupling holds it in place.
If it's not seated properly, the coupling isn't held in place. See >>1603328, the PTFE tube has to be seated directly against the heat break or else it'll clog right in between.

>>1603328
Volcano nozzles are longer and offer a longer melt zone though, allowing for more retraction.

[Anonymous No.1603471]

>>1603328
If that is the melt zone than a V6 would be able to retract more than 10mm without problems.

[Anonymous No.1603480]

>>1603281
At 45 degrees.

[Anonymous No.1603512]

>>1603281
Scaled 3x or with resin

[Anonymous No.1603513]

>>1603206
Depends on the thing being printed. Usually 40-60mm/s and the outermost wall with 15-30mmm/s to minimize ringing. Small details might need 10mm/s to print nicely.

[Anonymous No.1603532]

>>1603395
It's still easy to get, you just have to look it up. I had to go through the process again after not using it for like a year+

[Anonymous No.1603575]

>>1603281
I'd just pay $.50 for a comb.

[Anonymous No.1603627]

god damn Cura's new UI is awful
who the fuck thought this was a good idea

[Anonymous No.1603640]

>>1603627
I haven't used Cura's previous UI's, but it's still more intuitive than fucking MasterCAM.

[Anonymous No.1603646]

>>1603640
the settings used to be fixed on the right and would never overlap with other shit

you can't even click on the slice dialog to bring it to the top, it's ridiculous.

[Anonymous No.1603652]

>>1603646
I feel like the software is really made for you to just set up your specific machine/material profiles and then never have to touch the settings again unless you need specific mechanical properties.

[Anonymous No.1603857]

>tfw you get the auto leveling just right and start printing a very large part and the first layer is like a mirror

i definitely need auto leveling gadget and glass bed. i got lucky with this bed leveling but it's not always this good.

[Anonymous No.1603858]

>>1603857
>1603857

I meant bed leveling not auto leveling.

[Anonymous No.1603944]

>>1603646
>>1603627
an extension that reverts it came out on the same day

[Anonymous No.1603949]

>>1603944
Cura 4.0 claimed my printer profile was 'corrupted' randomly and wanted me to replace it. Uninstalled it immediately and reinstalled 3.6, printer profile was fine. Fuck cura 4.0 and cancer software changes.

[Anonymous No.1603954]

>>1600285
How should I do the supports? This is what flash finder generated for me from auto support.

Would this suffice?

[Anonymous No.1603955]

>>1603954
If you're printing from PLA, you might not need supports if you have good enough cooling and go slow. Can't vouch for tree supports at all, though, I've never used them on FDM.

[Anonymous No.1603958]

>>1603955
do you not see the 90 degree overhang?

[Anonymous No.1604004]

>>1603954

I'd separate the sticky-outy part and print it out afterwards, on its side. From the looks of it making a square hole in the base for it to slot into shouldn't be difficult.

[Anonymous No.1604100]

is there an easy way to decrease heatup times for my buildplate that isnt replacing the whole thing with a more powerful silcone heater?

also, i am looking for alternatives to ABS for prints that i need to smooth out later. are there other materials that can be smoothed with acetone or other easy toa apply chemicals?

[Anonymous No.1604103]

>>1604100
You can insulate the bottom of heated bed. You can also help heating up with a hair dryer or heat gun or some other external heater. But you have to move it around the bed, so that you don't overheat on one spot.

[Anonymous No.1604235]

>>1604004
This anon gets it. That would be almost zero effort to make a quick snap joint and avoid the entire vertical printing part altogether.

[Anonymous No.1604239]

>>1604100
Put a piece of cardboard on top, until you're ready to start?

[Anonymous No.1604242]

>>1604100
I got some nicely improved heatup time for my bed using a thermally conductive silicon sheet. It's <$10 for a sheet of 400mm x whatever on Amazon or your favorite chinkshit site. Just cut & place between your build surface and the bed. Try to keep the air bubbles to a minimum. I should mention that I use a hefty glass surface and the times went from abysmal to slightly less abysmal. But it did let me stop using those binder clips that snap off every time the printer runs into them, which honestly means more to me than the heatup times.

[Anonymous No.1604255]

>>1604100
EE anon here,
increase d on pid tune

[Anonymous No.1604336]

>>1604239
PLA can be chemically smoothed, google it

[Anonymous No.1604434]

>>1604336
I have yet to see anyone actually document their attempts at it though

[Anonymous No.1604464]

>>1601918
It should be noted, that driver was released by FTDI, not Windows. MS ain't the ass hole this time. I can't really fault their motives, but they should have though about the consequences. Thankfully they later pulled the update and removed the authenticity checker in the next one.

[Anonymous No.1604465]

>>1600417
Why is microstepping a meme?

[Anonymous No.1604468]

Would the "snapping" joints work on the rod connecting it to the base?

[Anonymous No.1604469]

>>1604465
https://www.micromo.com/media/wysiwyg/Technical-library/Stepper/6_Microstepping%20WP.pdf

tl;dr doesn't make steppers more accurate (but will make it more silent)

[Anonymous No.1604471]

>>1604434
There have many who have tried, most of them didnt survive, the rest got so much brain damage that they cant warn others about it.

[Anonymous No.1604517]

>>1604468
That looks too flared out to push through. You could always just thread it.

[Anonymous No.1604523]

>>1604468
Snap joints are tricky anon, PLA has somewhere between very little flex and "it'll break if you try" depending on its angle. If you are >>1603954 then I recommend a slide joint. Pic related. Simple as dirt and some super glue will make it permanent.

[Anonymous No.1604536]

Octopi makes the RPI run fairly warm to the touch. I solved this with a tiny square of that Silicon sheeting and a 75% copper heatsink. I have larger heatsinks but they are 5x the price.

[Anonymous No.1604537]

anything new in the past 4 months?
been doing my conscription so i haven't been able to follow the threads

[Anonymous No.1604597]

i tried using modifiers in the prusa slic3r to get 100% infill under the bolt heads on this mount. i'm not sure if this looks right though, ie whether the modified regions will adhere optimally to the rest of the print. does pic related look fine?

>>1604536
"warm to the touch" should be fine. if you can hold your finger on it continuously then the surface is under 60C, which means the die is most likely within its 85C rating too. that's a general rule for electronic components more so than for the pi though, maybe others have specific experience to the contrary.

[Anonymous No.1604607]

Have any of you guys tried printing molds for casting resins?
Most of the stuff I see online is making a print and then using that to make a silicone mold which they then use for casting resins.

[Anonymous No.1604611]

>>1604607
Resins need a flexible surface to release from.
Either you cast a rigid material in a flexible form or cast a flexible material in a rigid form.

[Anonymous No.1604616]

>>1604537
Nothing of note really
One anon printed a car, and is working on 2.0(he posts rarely)
Nerfanon has been bullied into printing airsoft guns and has since abandoned us
Thingiverse has apparently completely stop basic maintenance for the site
Prusa made his own thingiverse that's basically just a more corporate version of MMF, with the option to load .GCODE directly instead .STLs that you can modify
Ender 3 is still the meme machine

[Anonymous No.1604621]

>>1604537
>>1604616
The 3D printed Glock meme kicked off recently.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aTW7OF4k55Q

[Anonymous No.1604630]

1 month into owning the Ender 3 I have bought a raspberry pi and cam for octoprint. i hope its worth it because all this stuff isn't cheap. it's starting to add up. I would say the coolest shit I have made so far that im actually proud of is https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2395716 because it actually looks very nice once put together and im in the process of that. the only way i see 3d printing paying off is to use it for practical reasons or home decor, everything else is just whatevers. It's cool to print a model but you can only have so much of that. room decor is the way to go and that requires time to print.

Was octiprint worth it for you?

[Anonymous No.1604685]

Rate my overhang test.

Monoprice maker select v2 (wanhao i3)

[Anonymous No.1604702]

>>1600285
I know of a makerspace near me with a lulzbot mini, but it's a 30-minute drive and I have to start my prints in-person.
Would getting a cheap ($100-$250) personal printer be worth the convenience, or would there be a big disparity in print quality/volume?
If so, how does the Ender 3 stack up to the Monoprice Maker Select/Wanhao i3?

>>1604621
>The 3D printed Glock meme kicked off recently.
There's another release that's going to be even more meme-tastic, pic related

[Anonymous No.1604716]

>>1604702
Neat.

[Anonymous No.1604728]

>>1604630
Octoprint was very worth it.

[Anonymous No.1604729]

>>1604630
>Was octiprint worth it for you?
Stopped using it when i noticed it degrades the print quality in little more complex parts, since the USB->Arduino connection is too slow and the amount of free RAM of the Arduino is too little. I dont have an ender 3, but i recommend a friend to get a chinck Duet Maestro instead of a combination of octopi+tmc2130 for his needs and so far he is pretty happy with it, good web interface and the printer is a lot quieter than before, but keep in mind you need to know what you are doing, you dont have wifi but a ethernet and there is no webcam support.
Overall i dont regret having used an Octopi in the beginning, it was super convinient and saved me a ton of frustration by being more able to check and figure out problems or stop a print when i saw that something wasnt going well on the webcam.

[Anonymous No.1604740]

>>1604616
>the option to load .GCODE directly instead
.......
what
Why the fuck would you want to run gcode someone else compiled? Even if you both have identical machines, what if they fucked up their settings?

[Anonymous No.1604741]

>>1604702
>3d printed lower receiver
I don't get why people are excited by this; same with the glock. It's like larping that you can 3d print a car because you were able to print a bit of door trim.

[Anonymous No.1604742]

Is this a thing? If yes, how is it called?

The nozzle is 10mm or so far from the build plate, the printer is extruding material to produce a fluffy structure.

[Anonymous No.1604744]

I want to know how to create a 3D image using orthographic projected images, basically front image, side, top and then take those images and have software create a 3d model from it. is that possible?

[Anonymous No.1604747]

>>1604744

3d model*

[Anonymous No.1604750]

>>1604741
define "people" and "excited"; most of the time I see things like this, it's either the people who are extremely into 3D printing guns so that they can prove that gun laws don't work and that everybody should have guns no matter what, or it's the exact opposite side and it's the people who are extremely against 3D printers, wanting to legislate the crap out of them because they don't understand how guns work and nobody should have them no matter what.

Very rarely do I see an actual technology demonstration like "hey, look at this new feature I can do with additive technology", it's usually "look at me make an almost exact copy of an existing gun (that would get destroyed on the first shot) to piss off anti-gun people"

[Anonymous No.1604751]

>>1604744
That's photogrammetry; it doesn't work well with only 3 pictures though.

[Anonymous No.1604756]

>>1604744
youtube sketchup photomatch

[Anonymous No.1604764]

>>1604751
The early days for structure from motion worked only on 2 images.
But yeah the less images you have the more error prone is the method. Also inaccuracies tends to blow up with less images.

[Anonymous No.1604765]

>>1604740
Last thread an anon broke it down pretty well, far better than I can, but basically it's the first step in properly commercializing the 3d printer world
Essentially it offers modelers the option to put licenses and trademarks on the gcode and sets up the pathways for printer companies to have security so you cant pirate models or are forced to buy extra licenses to be able to print, also Prusa himself has said he doesnt like the idea of people printing guns and this can set up the technology to prohibit that

[Anonymous No.1604769]

>>1604765
Does Prusa realise he's going to lose? The Chinese will want no part in locking printer users into brands, because their whole industry revolves around copying western printers.

[Anonymous No.1604778]

>>1604741
In the US, recievers are considered the "firearm," so you can buy the rest of the parts no questions asked. In other countries, the barrel and bolt are the regulated parts, so right now they're working on ways to create barrels via ECM and have already made bolts out of bar stock (Shuty AP-9).
What makes this particular receiver special is that it's the only way to get replacement Tec-9 lowers (which have been known to crack), because while it's a collectible gun, it's also outdated and niche.
>like larping that you can 3d print a car because you were able to print a bit of door trim.
Not exactly, it's like saying you can 3d print a car because you were able to print the body, but not the powertrain
>>1604765
>Prusa himself has said he doesnt like the idea of people printing guns and this can set up the technology to prohibit that
How the fuck is he going to accomplish that? Make an AI that automatically determines whether or not something is a "gun"? Have every single model manually reviewed before it can be shared? Create a blacklist of no-no GCode? There's no practical way he can do this.

[Anonymous No.1604780]

>>1604769
The chinese will also continue to barely innovate and just rip off designs with shitty hardware, not improving the market in any way. I do agree that the no gun printing thing is stupid, though, no way to enforce it

[Anonymous No.1604785]

>>1604769
>>1604780
Even without the chinese, what's stopping somebody from just putting in a new controller?

[Anonymous No.1604797]

>>1604785
Knowing how proprietary printers these days are made, probably some kind of chip or specific hardware that makes it impossible to control without proprietary hardware/consumables (or at least really hard to without reverse-engineering it); something like what the Up! Mini did, or DaVinci, or Stratasys.

[Anonymous No.1604798]

I agree it's just numbers and letters telling where the nozzle needs to go and print, there is no way you can stop that. It's just the manner of the technology. This is the future now where someone can buy a $200 and print weapons, no way you can stop that. I personally don't print guns, but how would you go about preventing that? This is why I believe in the conspiracy that the government is actively hiding breakthrough tech and science from the public because once the genies out of the bottle you can't put it back.

[Anonymous No.1604799]

>>1604797
>some kind of chip or specific hardware that makes it impossible to control without proprietary hardware/consumables
Interesting, could you go into more detail? Do they use things like proprietary motors that won't work without an authorized controller?

[Anonymous No.1604803]

>>1604798
>the government is actively hiding breakthrough tech and science from the public because once the genies out of the bottle you can't put it back.
Yeah, imagine if we were to realize offworld colonization or warp drive. As it stands, earth has limited space and space travel is expensive and slow as shit; if you pissed off a major power there's nowhere you could go that was outside their influence. By comparison, if we were to have fast travel across the entire Milky Way, there would be an endless frontier of places to colonize, hide, or otherwise do whatever the fuck you want. Space is the final, endless frontier, and frontiers=freedom.

[Anonymous No.1604811]

>>1604799
I can't to point any specific examples other than the DaVinci products, but those restrictions have to do with filament. I genuinely wouldn't be surprised if something similar existed with more complex motors and expensive products, but I think it's unlikely you'd find something like that in just a generic NEMA stepper in cheap products.

[Anonymous No.1604925]

>>1604811
>DaVinci
I thought that was just a barcode on the spool? Theoretically, what's stopping you from just hanging an empty DaVinci spool on it while feeding it filament from a normal spool outside?
>>1604798
It's easy enough to compile your own gcode now, and Prusas current system where it's just plain gcode isn't secure at all, sure, but what will probably really happen is a proprietary file format and encryption. What I would do if I were an asshole is make my own thingiverse, and convert every uploaded file into my own encrypted file format. These files could only be opened in my proprietary slicer, which produces an encrypted gcode file. That file is uploaded to the printer, which only is connectable to through a proprietary, internal octopi (no USB). This lets me install firmware updates whenever I want, to make sure nobody gets past my encryption.

[Anonymous No.1604945]

how good do i have to be with a 3d printer to get in at FDM manufacturing? the company i work for has a 3d print division that would be neat to work for

[Anonymous No.1604947]

>>1604945

just take numerical control in college and metal machining, blueprint reading. everything else becomes easy after that. that's what i did anyways. this is easy compared to machining stuff.

[Anonymous No.1604952]

>>1604750
>it's usually "look at me make an almost exact copy of an existing gun (that would get destroyed on the first shot) to piss off anti-gun people"

I mean, you say that, but here's a guy test firing an AR-10 in real fuckin' NATO with a printed lower receiver (The part that is legally considered "the gun").

[Anonymous No.1604953]

>>1604945
If it's a large company, start trying to talk to managers or other people in that division and see what skills they require, it might be a lot more than you expect (particularly for metal AM). If it's a small company, mention to your boss that you have (a/several) 3D printers at home and think you could help out with the division, maybe show him some designs you've made for good measure

[Anonymous No.1604959]

>>1604947

Who's going to actually go to college for that?

[Anonymous No.1604965]

>>1604959

it's community college. you can't set aside 1 semester of classes? like several 3 times a week? sometimes on saturdays? so what. you actually spend time with actual cnc machines and simulators and there will be people there to pick you up if you fall. there is no excuse not to take these classes if you have them nearby and it will look good once you look for a job. you need a foundation for any manufacturing.

personally it should be like this

blueprint reading 1 where you learn the alphabet of lines. no one will hire you if you can't read a blueprint. im just saying.
manual machining classes, the first one was 4 units
and cam/numerical control for mill or lathe.

that's 3 classes, 10 units, that is nothing. once you are done with that you are already ahead of the curve where you can take blueprint reading and learn the basics of GD&T.

just saying you can run a 3d printer will get you no where unless you are good with the owners or something and they will teach you but again that will only do you so much. take some classes.

[Anonymous No.1604971]

>>1604965
>>1604959
It's the same as getting a forklift certificate/license. Yeah, "going to college" for it is ridiculous, but putting aside some time for a course gives you an official document that puts your job application ahead in the pile.

[Anonymous No.1604976]

It really depends on what industry you're in.
I've had a front row seat to some pretty spectacular half-ass jobs.

[Anonymous No.1604977]

>>1604971

i agree. It pays for itself in the end. In this state it's only $40 a unit, you don't even need a high school diploma, just take the classes and if you are really interested in it you will more than likely get an A because everyone else does not give a shit and are there just for the sake of being there. that's how it was when I went. nobody cares, people twirling micrometers, using them as c-clamps as jokes, destroying machines. it was really easy to get an A.

blueprint reading I think is a must, a minimum if you are getting into manufacturing parts. learning the title block, learning about revisions, some AS standards, safety, employers wanna see that you at least tried and for me it came down to the classes I took in college, I would have not gotten the job if I didn't. even introductory six sigma classes helped on my resume, like basic shit that is 6 hours long. you don't even need to know it well.

[Anonymous No.1604979]

>>1604977
Not everyone has the ability to think in 3D.

[Anonymous No.1604980]

>>1604979

i like third angle projections, i think its europeans that uses first angle? kind of get tricked with that but yea i remember that from college.

[Anonymous No.1604981]

Any idea why I'm getting these god awful bottom layers? Its every bottom surface, not just the base that touches the raft. I'm using Cura 4.0 and a Cetus with a Smoothieboard CPU. 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer height, raft and support on, 20% infill, PolyLite PLA. This was made with the stock hot end but I'm currently installing a V6.

[Anonymous No.1604982]

>>1604980
You're supposed to put this drawing on the print, but some places omit it from their templates...

[Anonymous No.1604984]

>>1604977
I don't know about USA but here in Europe these kinds of courses usually don't cost anything, and if they have enough hours included you even qualify for a student loan. There's really no excuse to not have at least a basic professional education, and as someone with a diploma from a one year machining course I actually earn more than my friend who spent four years studying engineering, though I expect he'll surpass me in pay in a few years. Still, that's three years of good pay and much less student debt, so it still works out to a really good decision. And it's not like machining is going to become an obsolete profession, like truck driving supposedly is. I pity the people who take advice like this get themselves a truck license.

[Anonymous No.1604986]

>>1604981
I honestly don't use raft all that often.
I usually go with a skirt, maybe a brim if I need it to really be rigid and flat.
I've only used raft for prints with a lot of supports.

[Anonymous No.1604987]

>>1604981
>raft
Do you need raft? Try printing with brim instead. The problem is that rafts include an extra distance between the raft and the print itself, which means the bottom layer is always going to look awful.

[Anonymous No.1604989]

>>1604621
That's some beautiful autism.

[Anonymous No.1604991]

>>1604986
I've done plenty of rafts that have turned out fine. It always looks underextruded on the bottom because the slicer wants to prevent it from binding but otherwise it's fine. I kind of have to use rafts because of the textured build plate Cetus's have.

>>1604987
See above. Also, this happens on all bottom surfaces, including ones resting on supports instead of the raft.

[Anonymous No.1604993]

>>1604991
My 3nder has the textured magnetic plate. Most of the failed prints I've had were because the leveling of the plate was just barely off.
If the skirt doesn't follow the path, I loosen then nut in that direction. If it looks like it's underextruded, I tighten the nut in that direction.
The first layer is the foundation of the print. Unless you're good at fixing it on the fly, you're better off just stopping the print, cleaning up the bed and start over with the necessary adjustments.

[Anonymous No.1605004]

>>1600285
Hey guys I need some help here, I think my black filament might be defective. Ever since I bought it back in September I always assumed I was fucking up prints, over the months I've bought white, and green filament. I finally did a test with green and black filament.

>pic related

black filament might be defective.

print setup
>Ender 3
>.1 layer height
>200C on nozzle, and 60C on bed
>green 95% infill, black 20% infill (maybe this caused the problem? then again this isn't only time black filament couldn't keep layers together)

[Anonymous No.1605007]

>>1605004
That's some pretty bad layer adhesion.
I'd try slightly higher nozzle, maybe making the top and bottom layers concentric?

[Anonymous No.1605009]

>>1605007
Higher nozzle temperature, I should say.

[Anonymous No.1605010]

>>1605007
For both green and black? I mean black one is obviously bad, I figured green came out decently.

I just noticed something, maybe its not a big deal, but my black filament has a tolerance of 0.05 while green and while has a tolerance of 0.03, I know its only 0.02 difference but think that might be a factor?

[Anonymous No.1605011]

>>1605009
I could try 205C

[Anonymous No.1605012]

>>1605010
Yeah, the green is alright.
The tolerance could be the issue depending on your setup.

[Anonymous No.1605054]

>>1605012
Green could've been better, but I didn't clean up the black one, and since it printed in the exact same sport, it came with some deform residue.

[Anonymous No.1605068]

>>1604993
Cetus's have fixed built plates. They're aluminum and they're fixed to a linear rail carriage with three screws in the center. I can only do so much about leveling. But leveling really hasn't been my issue. The rafts print perfectly. Their bottom layers look excellent. I might get into mesh bed leveling with Smoothieware, or possibly shimming my build plate, at a later date, but its not causing me any issues right now. The Cetus is a ridged beast, especially for a direct feeding, cantilevered bed slinger.

[Anonymous No.1605080]

>>1604952
that doesn't look like an AR-10
you sure it ain't just an AR-15?

[Anonymous No.1605083]

>>1605080
They look pretty similar, but the magazine looks about right to be an AR-10, and the spent casings seem a bit large to be an AR-15

[Anonymous No.1605085]

>>1605083
yeah i suppose it does kinda look a bit like an AR-10
it's just that i haven't seen a printed AR-10 lower before while i have seen a very similar looking AR-15 lower be printed

[Anonymous No.1605090]

>>1605004
black tends to suck in and hold heat more.
run a little cooler.

[Anonymous No.1605102]

>>1604981
Printing too hot by the looks of it.

[Anonymous No.1605104]

>>1605004
Print cooler (you are dumping heat into very thin layers, of course they're going to warp) and use a layer height that's a multiple of 0.04 (either 0.08 or 0.12 in your case); although why you'd print at such low layer heights for parts like that, I don't know.

[Anonymous No.1605105]

>>1605004
those both were with the same print settings right?
does the black filament crackle and pop when printed?

[Anonymous No.1605117]

I dont remember ever going to /k/. Where the fuck am i?

[Anonymous No.1605141]

>>1604630
>Was octiprint worth it for you?
Yes. Very much so. The only problem I had was the millions of printable mounts shown on thingiverse to attach the PI to the printer. None of them fit what I wanted so I had to design my own.

[Anonymous No.1605213]

We /production/ now

[Anonymous No.1605256]

>>1605090
>print cooler
To be honest I should've known dark colors take in more heat.

>>1605104
>Print cooler (you are dumping heat into very thin layers, of course they're going to warp) and use a layer height that's a multiple of 0.04 (either 0.08 or 0.12 in your case); although why you'd print at such low layer heights for parts like that, I don't know
I will print cooler and see what happens. Also layer height, makes sense to do multiple of 4, when I did .2mm layer height, it stuck better, with less layer separation, I figured it was because it wasn't hot enough...

>>1605105
>those both were with the same print settings right?
The only difference was the infill, black was 25% and green was 95%, I meant to put black at 95% too, but I forgot and just went with it. As far as temps, and settings, they were identical.

>does the black filament crackle and pop when printed?
The only noise it makes is a snapping noise, the reason is someone didn't know how to spool the filament on, and my end piece was being overlapped I fixed that and don't hear it anymore, I am guessing you suspected that maybe my filament absorbed water?

[Anonymous No.1605267]

>>1605080
>>1605083
>>1605085
Modern AR-10's are basically scaled-up AR-15's.
It is in 7.61x51, as you can see from the mag.

[Anonymous No.1605268]

>>1605117
>Forum populated primarily by people Americans and Canadians
>Guns are a common topic of discussion
Why does this shock you, exactly?

[Anonymous No.1605281]

Does anybody have any good designs for a multi safety razor and brush holder? I have 3 safety razors but I cant find anything I like that will hold all of them.

[Anonymous No.1605282]

>>1605268
>by people Americans and Canadians
Ugh. This is what happens when I post before my coffee.

[Printing Private Johnny No.1605298]

Hello /3DPG/, I'm over from /tg/'s relatively new /3DF/ thread, basically exactly what you guys do, but focused on building a trove of files for printing, designing, polishing, and recasting Tabletop Miniatures. We're pretty basic right now, and it's pretty much just us building up the trove, designing models, and occasionally testing prints, with very little technical info regarding the printers themselves, so I'm popping in to cannibalize your pastebin, and also ask if you guys have any advice for managing this sort of thread.
Also, do you guys have an Ender 3 specific guides, especially those regarding high-detail(.1-.25mm) prints and customization and optimization? Most of us looking to actually buy a printer at this time are favoring the E3, or its variants as our first printer, as seems to be the norm, an I'd like to build as much support for it on /tg/ as possible.
Anyway, I'm more here to sort of extend a hand in hopes we can establish some sort of relationship between our two threads and communities, with /3DF/ being the younger sister-thread of /3DPG/, to the general benefit of both threads.

[Anonymous No.1605299]

>>1605298
If you want to print minifigs, I'd recommend getting a nozzle with a smaller diameter.

[Printing Private Johnny No.1605301]

>>1605299
.1mm isn't small enough already?

[Anonymous No.1605302]

>>1605301
Default 3nder comes with a .4mm nozzle.

[Printing Private Johnny No.1605306]

>>1605302
Gotcha. What about the bed? I've heard that you should get Plate-Glass for it if you don't want the Texture the bed has, as well as a general need to print out the components for a new fan in order to increase the tolerance for Overhang?
Also, is Cura the best free slicer for it, or is there better out there?

[Anonymous No.1605311]

>>1605306
I've had great results with cura, haven't tried the other big names.
The textured magnetic bed has given me no issues, though I've only printed PLA on it.
The biggest concerns for upgrading would be new bed springs and some locknuts for the adjustment knobs.

[Anonymous No.1605312]

>>1605298
.1mm is going to be a clogfest, .25 is already on the small side. As long as you print low and slow, you'll be fine on the Ender 3 without customising. Most of your resolution will come from a low layer height, not the nozzle size per se.

If you want to print mini's I'd go for an SLA printer all day long, and they're getting cheap too. Given your goal though, I'd stick with E3's and a .25 nozzle, 0.08 or 0.12mm layer height and print speeds around 40mm/s.

>>1605306
Texture on the bed is fine, especially since most minis will be printed standing up, so the texture is only on the bottom, I don't see a need for glass for your purpose.
The best slicer is the one you have the most experience with, be it Simplify, Slic3r or Cura. I'd vouch for Cura as being the most newbie-friendly, although some veterans hate the UI and Simplify has some neat but different options. Also, Simplify doesn't have some Cura options.

[Anonymous No.1605313]

>>1605311

[Printing Private Johnny No.1605318]

>>1605312
Actually I don't print standing up as a general rule, and instead advocate the use of software like Meshmixer or 3D Builder to cut the model and print limbs and torsos lying horizontal, even going so far as to slice things in half so they can lie flat on the bed with no overhang, then gluing them back together once printed.
I also advocate the /tg/ tradition of gap-filling using a super-glue/baking soda compound, then polishing with fine-grit sand-paper(or in my case, a dremel set)

[Anonymous No.1605320]

New Thread >>1605319

[Anonymous No.1605322]

>>1605318
Then go with a glass buildplate (hardened, available at your local glassware store, just get the dimensions right), and you'll be fine with a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.12 layer heights.

[Anonymous No.1605456]

>>1605068
Check your axes being aligned square to the buildplate
Do this by measuring nozzzle gap in varius places, either feeler gauge or dial indicator

[Anonymous No.1605816]

>>1605318
>slice things in half so they can lie flat on the bed with no overhang, then gluing them back together once printed.

my n-word
this is the wrinkly brain way to print

[Anonymous No.1605998]

>>1601269
what the fuck am I even looking at

[Anonymous No.1606002]

>>1605998
It's literally the first word in his post...

[Anonymous No.1606015]

>>1606002
>Orthotics is a medical specialty that focuses on the design and application of orthoses

oh of course, how silly of me

[Anonymous No.1606299]

>>1606015
It's not our fault you're this dense.

[Anonymous No.1606754]

Why is it most methods of lighting print beds I see are over the top? In my experience, almost every single time, they're just about useless because they blind you and case a huge shadow over the print itself because the extruder is in the way. Has nobody really made something better than this? I remember LED rings used to be used a lot, what happened to them?

[Anonymous No.1606757]

>>1606754
Make your own then.

[Anonymous No.1606977]

>>1606754
I mean, you COULD just put a little flexible task light next to it. The ones that clamp onto work benches are pretty nice.

[Anonymous No.1607079]

>>1606754
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3464557 Do you mean something like this? The problem with putting the light on the extruder is that it moves around a lot and being so close you get a very bright light just on the print, and very little elsewhere. An overhead light reflects off of your walls, the printer, and the print itself, and therefore the shadows aren't so severe.