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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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1599100 No.1599100 [Reply] [Original]

Has anyone rewired a chinese atv? I'm getting real tired trying to figure out what goes where in the mess of cables and unknown connectors. I'm half tempted to tear it all out and get a box of connectors and a few spools of various colored cabled, but i'm not entirely sure where gets plugged where without the special connectors or how one would wire the lights and whatnot up.

I am a very bad electrician so i would seek advice from diy.

>> No.1599111

Based on what you wrote, this is not the first project you should be taking on.

>> No.1599120

>>1599111
I'd like to save the wiring harness if possible. but it probably won't last long.
I figure the actual game plan is to try and get this one to working and just slowly replace cabling until the original harness is no longer needed.
I've watched a few vids on people replacing small parts just to get the basic functions to work.

>> No.1599124

i like to label the og harness, remove it, and then lay it out as a patern for byilding a new one using good components. then copy over your labels.
if your unsure, take a pic of what plugs in where and label the connector and the pic the same.

>> No.1599130

>>1599100
not something you want to do unless you actually know what you're doing. fixing a single broken wire here or there is one thing. you have to use the right connectors and make sure everything is water tight, routed properly (no tight bends, no heat etc) and the right size of course. it also really depends how much electronic crap it has like fuel injection or an ECM

>> No.1599138

>>1599124
Smart. Do you use the same layout? I don't think this one is laid out very well and has a ton of wasted space and crossing across tings.

>>1599130
I have minimal knowledge of this for sure. I was hoping i could just take off the connectors and use standard waterproof plugs. Routing is the thing i want to do mostly as right now the hardness is just a tape ball and wraps around the engine and has a ton of dangling bits i don't know the name of. Theres not too much fancy electronics or anything, but it does have the CDI, kill switch, start button, key, 4wd toggle, and something to do with the brake line.
I think i can trace most of themI would just have to cut into this harness to remove as much as this tape as possible. and some wires seem to fork at some point as i can see colored wires going in and coming out in more than one spot and i'm not entirely sure how to dubplicate such a thing.
The whole wire thing seems like a huge mess and I want to make it make sense to me.

>> No.1599156

>>1599138
>The whole wire thing seems like a huge mess
because that's exactly what it is unless you have a proper wiring diagram. you CAN follow wires and try to make your own but i'd suggest seeing if you can get a real diagram somewhere online. if it's a brand big enough to actually have dealers carry them you might be able to get one printed off cheap or even free.

>> No.1599159

>>1599138
>I want to make it make sense to me.
Then you definitely need >>1599156
>a proper wiring diagram.
Can you provide make and model of the atv? Pic of label would be a great help.

>> No.1599188

>>1599138
i usualy follow the og layout changing things as needed for efficiency, or for taking mods im making into account.

>> No.1599298

>>1599159
Its called a Rodeo 400 from Qlink.

>> No.1599472

>>1599298
i see user manuals but that's about it. likely would have to pay a bit for a service manual

>> No.1599547

>>1599472
Yea. their chink brand service manual is about $90, but the yamaha its based off of seems to be an option as its mostly the same, just doesn't help with their questionable wiring.

>> No.1599550

>>1599100
Why though?

>> No.1599587

>>1599550
Because it doesn't run and its the electronics at fault.

>> No.1599663

>>1599100
its what 4 circuits? draw it out and buy some wire
>ignition
>charging
>head/tail light
>brake light

use one size bigger wire than the original
get weather pack connector from junkyard cars

>> No.1599817

>>1599138

dude easy as shit you could do without 90% of the wiring in that harness

i really admire your attitude so im gonna help you do this properly, ignore the people that say "you need special______" thats retarded all you need is heatshrink, and male/female spades uncoated

get some different color wire and lets get ready to rock

>> No.1599818

>>1599817

found a manual, should be close enough

https://www.manualslib.com/products/Qlink-Rd400-3625624.html

>> No.1599821

>>1599587

okay be more specific here:

there is an electric start and a pull start

it wont run even with just the pullstart? do you have spark when you pullstart?

very little wiring has to work for the pull start to be fully functional. the usual ignition system looks something like this:

stator and magneto off left footwell side crankshaft. then it will go to a rectifier, then to a coil, then to a spark plug. bare minimum.

in your case it will be:

stator ->
magneto ->
rectifier ->
kill switch ->
key ignition switch ->
coil ->
spark plug ->

if you have no spark at all i would guess in this order:

spark plug
spark plug lead
key ignition switch
mag timing
kill switch
coil
stator

you smellin what im steppin in?

>> No.1599822

>>1599818

by close enough i mean i can tell you how to wire it by glancing over that, pretty generic shit.

lot of useless wiring for lights/oil temp/shit like that

>> No.1599908

>>1599821
I'm slowly figuring out where stuff leads, but I don't know if the sparkplug itself works but i have ruled out the ignition coil as i was getting good readings (1ohm between terminals, 8k ohm between terminal and spark plug)

I do not have spark yet even on the manual pull, I'm still trying to find where the power lead from the ignition coil goes and where the ground goes after they go into the wiring harness.

I just bought a brand new solenoid and made sure it works so if i can find the start button wire i think I'll have the bare minimum needed to start if the CDI box works (unsure how to test.box.beforehand)

I'll test the stator when i get back home, it seems easy enough to test going off vidyas.

>> No.1600399

>>1599908
Doesnt understand wiring harness
Deciides its easier ro remake a wiring harness from scratch than to read a wiring diagram


Every fkin time

>> No.1600407

>>1599908

the coils power lead will come straight from the stator/mag as it will rely on timing (breaker points gap)

starting to sound like your timings so far off that the points never actually touch to allow a path for current to flow for spark

>> No.1600623

Alright made some headway. I have a working spark plug it seems but something is still wrong. Whenever i put the killswitch into "Run" it just starts sparking continuously. Shocked myself when i was searching for the clicking sound and grabbed the protective springy thing around the cord.

I took readings of the stator and they seem to be good. all three coils give good readings and continuity and the timing thing gave Ohm readings within spec. I cleaned up the contact also just in case.

Push button start doesn't seem to work yet, and i'm 99% sure the solenoid is seized even though its able to supply power to everything else.

How do ATVs distribute power anyway? Red lead is going to the solenoid, Black lead gets directly grounded to the engine block. From the solenoid the other psot goes to the starting motor, and then theres three leads in this case, one goes to the start button and two to what i presume are the safety shut offs (Brakes and neutral position). I tried hooking up a simple three post solenoid and couldn't get power to anything. Even the headlights stopped working.

>> No.1600806
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1600806

This thing is whooping my ass fierce. I've traced the push button and it seems to work, it has continuity at the solenoid, the spark plug works, but seems to put out constant power when the engine killswitch is in run. I tried putting in a new solenoid but apparently this one is distributing power to the entire system somehow.
The stator seems to be fine but i am unable to turn the engine over by hand, it just has too much compression to overcome

>> No.1600809 [DELETED] 

This video helped me install a new wiring harness just to clean everything up and get everything out of the way on mine. Different model. To much can’t be different. Hope it helps. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=awHvbBOMjhQ

>> No.1600822

>>1600809
I have my doubts.

>> No.1600967

>>1600806
WIRING DIAGRAM

>> No.1600980

>>1600806

>The stator seems to be fine but i am unable to turn the engine over by hand, it just has too much compression to overcome

a 400cc motor will not have too much compressiom, even without a decompressor. that things gotta be siezed up.

try doing the normal start up procedure but hold the key for like 30 seconds like youre cranking it. does the starter get hot? if so - yep its siezed

if not, then its the solenoid that has failed, which is really common.

the contacts that carry battery + over to the starter for cranking often get corroded and stop making contact.

>but seems to put out constant power when the engine killswitch is in run

i just read this post. the only possible way this can happen is if someone has wired the coil straight to the battery. the only place the coil is wired to is directly to the magneto through a ignition/kill switch.

this means if the motor isnt spinning, its not generating electricity, which means no spark.

heres a general breakdown, the start and ignition are 2 isolated circuits. they have very little to do with each other.

start circuit:

battery positive goes to starter solenloid,
battery negative to frame. these are the 2 heavy gauge wires.

then you should have lighter gauge positive wire coming to your starter solenoid from your keyed ignition switch. this supplies power to, and activates the solenloid which lets full battery power through the contacts to energize the starter, only the positive is switched and it gets battety negative via frame

your ignition switch will be wired in series with the kill switch, which should be ran in series with battery positive

....cont

>> No.1601033

>>1600967
do you think chinks made one? they copied yamaha and then nigger rigged the dogshit out of the harness and im not paying$90 for their "service manual"

>> No.1601056
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1601056

>>1600967

Heres the wiring diagram i've been using. Its the yamaha it's cloned from and seems to be the most accurate for everything other than colors.

>>1600980
I'll try and see where the two lines from the plug are going. I have a black (i presumed ground) going from one of the bolting points on the frame/lug on coil and then into the harness, and then theres an orange (possibly faded red) going into the pin next to it and then into the harness.

i'm thinking of just splitting this harness open to actually trace leads.

>> No.1601545

>>1601056

definitely open the harness, can always just tape it back up.

like i said 90% of the shit in that harness is uneccessary

if you dont have a multimeter go buy a 10$ chink shitter. as long as it can check resistance and voltage youre golden. doesnt even have to be very accurate.

>>1600980

>....cont

ill finish this post tonight i fell asleep halfway through lol

>> No.1601547

>>1601056

ah okay well in this case its pretty well the same as i described except instead of using the starter solenoid to also act as a relay it uses a seperate unit.

they call it a relay but willing to bet its probably more like a solenoid. probably one of those ice cube sized tin cans with 4 posts on it.

>> No.1601634 [DELETED] 

>>1601056

use this one

i definitely could be wrong but i doubt that thing has a throttle position switch, or a clutch switch, or a carb switch, etc

anyways i can tell you right now its either one of two things:

the cdi is fucked and shorted letting straight battery power through to the coil

or,

your positive wire from your coil --> cdi has been rewired in the wrong spot

that is literally the only possible things given the infortmation youve provided, and before you get lost in the beginners method of undoing loom and just looking at everything over and over without really knowing what youre looking for i suggest eliminating the faults which you know are an issue, and then continueing on.

your coil is either wired wrong or your cdi is fucked. fix that, then see if it runs.

>> No.1601636 [DELETED] 
File: 44 KB, 979x639, 3DA87E18-AAF9-47DE-8F1E-2F366CD0A6BB.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1601636

>>1601634

faggot pic related because im a forgot

>> No.1601653

>>1600806

right i forgot this things not old as fuck so it will be a capacitive discharge ignition system

>but seems to put out constant power when the engine killswitch is in run

can you expand on this a bit more

is the spark plug constantly sparking without cranking the motor, with the killswitch on run?

>the only way i can see this is if your CDI has been rewired to have +12v from the battery to the ignition trigger, which is normally what tells the capacitors to discharge to the coil. the ignition timing marks are what determines when this happens. its possible that you have rubbed wires, maybe a wire that has constant +12v has rubbed through to the ignition trigger wire.

or is the sparkplug constantly sparking while cranking?

>it should be fairly quickly sparking. it may just look like its constant

or did you check voltage at the coils sparkplug lead with the killswitch on run, and youre seeing a voltage?

>this could just be due to the nature of a CDI as it uses capacitors and they will store charge for quite some time after a power source is removed

>> No.1601766

>>1601653
When i put the kill switch to run in produces a spark, its not a continuous arc just a series of sparks. I disassembled the Start button and found the spring (copper or brass of course) to be smushed and no longer springy, i pulled it apart so it actually disengages the button now, this might of been the constant spark problem. I need a new solenoid as i get no continuity between the posts when it gets engaged and the plunger must be seized because it doesn't even move a little.

May need a new start motor as well as it doesn't turn the engine, it tries.very hard but just can't turn it over even when the spark plug is out and has zero compression. i can turn it over by hand fine except when the spark plug is in, i hit that compression and the rope just rips from my oily hands.

>> No.1602254

>>1601766

>this might of been the constant spark problem.

regardless, if the motor isnt being turned over it, then the CDI won't be getting the trigger signal to discharge the capacitors to produce a spark. its really odd youre getting spark without the magneto spinning.

>I need a new solenoid

you can always just jump the inner 2 posts with a screwdriver. pretty sure it'll be the inner 2, they'll be the 2 biggest posts with the heavy gauge wire

>i hit that compression and the rope just rips from my oily hands

try bomb starting this thing. tow it behind another atv or a car or push it down a big hill and hop on, then quickly jam it into 2nd or 3rd gear and give it some throttle, see if it tries to fire up. that, or try just putting the spark plug in about 4 spins, so some of the compression can escape. be careful as often they'll still fire up. your recoil could be fucked, and its just locking up once it hits resistance

>> No.1602433

did some digging into the spark problem. found some forum of RC builders where someone else had the same issue. I think one of the components in the cdi is cooked.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1320000-CDI-on-the-blink-Continuous-firing-of-spark