/emt/ eternal machinist general

[Anonymous No.1573498]

I don't have the damn OP text so sod off.

[Anonymous No.1574144]

>>1573498
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dAe8ZaROh0

[Anonymous No.1574152]

>>1573498
https://www.tormach.com/blog/chip-thinning-cut-aggressively/

remember to keep the tools loaded

[Anonymous No.1574187]

>>1573498
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ProB4LpswPA

EDM intro video

[Anonymous No.1574320]

they got this cool thing called archive

Contributions:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qq5dFeBhvRQ [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPIkPGqjBCc [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABeio9yOtkI [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gJ0PDWs0iU [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQ332KGc-6M [Embed]
https://www.natool.com/engineering-data/tap-style-guide
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92ztzCP76ho [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WN1usZ2K8xI [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeKreZqgi9M [Embed]
https://metalcutting.com/%E2%80%ACwire%E2%80%AD-%E2%80%ACcut%E2%80%AD-%E2%80%ACedm-advantages-disadvantages/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrWskHpk3oo [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbMbFvsRTJo [Embed]
>abom79 is a good channel for manual machining and good "big old iron" work
https://www.youtube.com/user/Abom79
>ThisOldTony provides great videos in the range of hobby garage machining
https://www.youtube.com/user/featony
>Clickspring shows what can be done with truly rudimentary tools
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCworsKCR-Sx6R6-BnIjS2MA
>Robrenz is a wealth of high precision machining, toolmaking, and metrology
https://www.youtube.com/user/ROBRENZ/
>Joe Pieczynski has good tips for the budding machinist on a variety of topics mostly related to manual machining
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpp6lgdc_XO_FZYJppaFa5w
>NYC CNC is half-decent most of the time if you can get past the tormach shilling bullshit
https://www.youtube.com/user/saunixcomp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CX92C3klOiY [Embed]

[Anonymous No.1574321]

and maybe https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Zy3yElAWwI [Embed]
and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1oASjbm2F8 [Embed]
and https://www.youtube.com/user/Threadexpress
and this guy does aluminum and steel casting (cool) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzaz39hUUKM [Embed]
and for old iron and restoring it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nc5Z_Mo2J0Y&t=0s [Embed]
and this guy isn't particularly funny, but sometimes interesting https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4vaszLFBOE [Embed]
and stefan gotteswinter https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJgXH6K9GIU&t=1s [Embed]
and another guy that does metal castings https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5pu3hJ7SZE [Embed]
and watch this redneck build a million dollar business in his barn https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4aP3SIWIVlY&t=0s [Embed]
and this guy isn't too big an idiot https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDJOJSBXswo [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCkSr3M8GXbS4txqPY7OMxQ/featured
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXoG9uEMIpA [Embed]
http://www.cnc1.com/files/PDF/FANUC-CNC-Specifications/Fanuc_0i-MD_Standard_Features_and_Options.pdf
http://www.sharp-industries.com/sites/default/files/parts-book/FANUC%20Series%20Oi%20%26%20Oi%20Mate%20Model%20D%20-%20PARAMETER%20MANUAL.pdf
http://www.sharp-industries.com/sites/default/files/parts-book/FANUC%20Series%20Oi%20%26%20Oi%20Mate%20Model%20D%20%28VMC%29%20-%20OPERATORS%20MANUAL.pdf
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poOngCE7tyM [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/user/AndersonPrototypes/videos
https://www.youtube.com/user/artisandice/videos
https://www.youtube.com/user/jhawkdesign/videos?sort=dd&shelf_id=0&view=0
https://www.youtube.com/user/l0ckcr4ck3r/videos
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCuusVnkjtCWzO5FHLNsDxRg
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6QfeDvhEuA5DiUoypF9OYw/videos
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7BdO8koXBLWmzjYLT2aSoA/videos
https://www.youtube.com/user/tjzelick/videos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BOdwByzXls [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wIEi1ElHa6w [Embed]

[Anonymous No.1574322]

http://tachino.o.oo7.jp/index.html
this one is toptier diy and even in 2018 he post pics like hes on a 56k
http://www.ibara.ne.jp/~ymnr/index.htm
this one is good too
http://mecha-tech.la.coocan.jp/index-e.html
http://www.eonet.ne.jp/~mmf/index.html
http://mini-senban.com/mini-senban/
http://secsuzuki.blog19.fc2.com/
http://sec-suzuki.com/
https://jisakuyaro.com/

[Bepperoni No.1574324]

Still thinking about the cobalt drill bits, almost bought a DeWalt 14pc set just to keep around before going with a big set (I’m trying to avoid HF). Then I realized that I could drill wood for ages with the things, but how am I supposed to sharpen them after some holes in steel?

[Anonymous No.1574349]

>>1574324
You don't use those for steel.

[Anonymous No.1574376]

>>1574324
with dewalts you can sharpen a normal drill point onto the first half inch or so, but the meat of the spiral gets thicker towards the base so if you snap one halfway down it's trashed.

[Anonymous No.1574390]

>>1573498
Man, I work in the place that makes those little fuckers. When we test new geometry or carbide we'll smash through close to 10 or 15 in day. Love threadmills.

[Bepperoni No.1574410]

>>1574349
Then why the hell is their set of cobalt bits like that?

[Anonymous No.1574411]

https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/blog/march-11-2019-product-update-whats-new/

Fusion 360 has tapered threads now!

[Anonymous No.1574413]

>>1574410
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/81184293

there ye go

[Bepperoni No.1574419]

>>1574413
>$150 for HSS
Meh, I’m gonna destroy this $30 MKE set first. I will probably snap every bit under 3/8” immediately because cobalt.

Anyway there are some good prices on Amazon for bits. Norsemen and a few other decent brands, ~$100 for a 29pc cobalt set.

[Anonymous No.1574437]

>>1574419
okay then

[Anonymous No.1574456]

also more control over thread timing in fusion 360 now, this update is pretty impressive

[Anonymous No.1574457]

>>1574390
>smash through 15 hundred dollar thread mills in a day

[Bepperoni No.1574475]

>>1574437
Eventually I want to get a 115pc index. And I have a feelingwhen I NEED a #44 or G bit because 64ths won’t work, it’s going to be in metal. So I want to mess around with the cobalt bits as well as sharpening HSS bits and see if it’s worth spending the $$$ on a reputable 115pc cobalt set.

Also pic related just went on sale but it isn’t sold in stores otherwise I probably woulda grabbed it.

[Anonymous No.1574607]

>>1574456
subscribing to a cloud is morally wrong.

[Anonymous No.1574667]

>>1574607
yes anon cloud storage = bad

just like orange man = bad

good npc

[Anonymous No.1574668]

>>1574607
i will admit I wish fusion had an offline mode. maybe they will make it available for lump-sum purchase?

[Bepperoni No.1574693]

>>1574475
Turns out good quality HSS bits cut bretty gud if I haven’t totally fucked up the bit before starting the hole. And I only snapped one bit!

[Anonymous No.1574781]

-Started off a machinist
-Learned on mastercam
-Went to surfcam as a dedicated NC programmer for a couple years 2014 vr2 ... oh my god the crashes...
- switched to 2017vr2 ..oh my god the solid works updates never work, along with crashes.
- Changed jobs and now have to work with prototrak controls ... fuck my life ...

That said they are putting in cam works module for solid works. What type of hell am I in for?

[Anonymous No.1574850]

>>1574668
it would be $600 like autocad

[Anonymous No.1574853]

>>1574850
That's a lot less than I expected.

[Anonymous No.1574854]

>>1574667
I voted for the orange man because I care about guns and taxes.
All the orange man has done was fuck over my tax return and outright allow the ban of bumpstocks.

[Anonymous No.1574856]

>>1574390
Do you work for a big manufacturer, or are you like a small shop?
I know places like Harvey and Gorillamill are relatively small shops.

[Anonymous No.1574861]

>>1574856
>harvey
>small shop

Ehhhh they smake small tools, but not what I would call small.

[Anonymous No.1574864]

>>1574324
Why are you still shitting up the machinist threads with questions about non machinist garbage?
"Pilot points" like that
and
>>1574410
"chipbreakers" aka a fucking notched split point like these are not for putting in machine tools. They are for idiots who dont know how to use a hand drill who walk crappy and dull drill bits. Its a crutch for starting a hole, at the expense of losing 30-50% of your actual cutting edge.

Fucking trash
Also both are variable helix which is also fucking trash. The fast helix near the point is only good for aluminum and wood, the slow helix near the back is only good for steels.
AKA it will eject aluminum great in the bottom of your hole but poorly near the back where it matters. And it will be poor at steel at the point of cut which wont give it the push it needs when it hits the slow helix.

>>1574475
> And I have a feelingwhen I NEED a #44 or G bit because 64ths won’t work

You arent a machinist, you arent going to need it. And when you do, the cheap fuck set you buy youll realize its not actually a 44 or a G.

Also what makes you think HSS is not a suitable tool steel?
You do realize the cheap m35 cobalts you are looking at are only slightly harder than a proper HSS?
In cases like Milwaukee its literal marketing wank

[Anonymous No.1574865]

>>1574861
Ah, for some reason I was under the impression Harvey was pretty small.

[Bepperoni No.1574870]

>>1574864
I still somewhat agree with anon who said that on a hand drill with chuck wobble and shit, it’s barely worth going more precise than 64ths because it will never drill that true. I won’t do the good 115pc or letters-numbers until I have the drill press.

And the Milwaukee wank, probably true. They gotta be a little better than the TiN bits but I’m sure not machinist grade. I didn’t pay machinist money for em either because I will likely fuck them up. There was a Bosch M42 15pc set at Lowe’s for $30, and it was supposed to be in stock, but then I went to the store and they were in the process of replacing 75% of their tool stock with new Stanley Craftsman and the Bosch cobalt bits were nowhere to be found.

[Anonymous No.1574882]

>>1574870
>They gotta be a little better than the TiN bits but I’m sure not machinist grade.

There is no such thing as "machinist grade" and "better" is misleading.

Its like everything else in the tooling world.
You need to match your tooling to what material you are machining.
Your helix, your tip geometry, your flute polish/coating/lack thereof, your tool material all matter.

HSS bits can drill through stainless steel if you arent a retard and understand work hardening.

There is a reason that you see HSS, Jobber length, 118 drills everywhere. Because as long as you arent an idiot they are ok at pretty much everything.
Thats also the reason literally everyone has told you to just get them and be done. Hell even 135 split points of you dont want to do wood.

The nuances are lost on you because you arent buying tools to match your production, or even for hobby machining work.
You are buying drills to punch holes in garbage.

[Anonymous No.1574891]

>>1574882
People shit on HSS because they do not understand SFM and chip load. I have met butchers working production that run every drill regardless of size at 1k and a feed of 1. It's mind numbing to watch. Then they get even worse when they try to hand sharpen drills cause "i'm a machinist and all machinists can hand sharpen drills".

to everyone who doesn't know:
(3.82 / (via of drill)) * surface footage of material = RPM

RPM * cutting flutes (2 for a drill) * chip load = feed in IPM

these 2 equations are the holy grail of tool life. use them.

[Bepperoni No.1574892]

>>1574882
>you arent buying tools to match your production
This is correct because I would have to be producing something for that to be the case.

What is the difference between the angles, like 135 and 118 or 112? Which is better at what? Seems like they advertise the sharper angles to reduce walking but I center punched the stuff and didn’t have that issue.

Edit- I just read a quick comparison and they seem to say 135 split point is better for basically everything except they’re more difficult to sharpen. Is this true?

[Anonymous No.1574895]

>>1574892
118 is 100 year old technology that was established because consistent tool steel was iffy at the time. With modern metallurgy we can switch from a fat chisel point to a sharper pointed drill with less fear of the drill breaking due to crappy material. Thats all it really is. 118 has a fat web for strength. 135 has a cleared out center point for less pressure needed drill.

[Anonymous No.1574901]

>>1574891
I swear, some places need to hide the bench grinder from their machinist.

People putting like 0.090 thou chamfers on endmills to try and get a few more parts out of them.
Putting 90 degree chisel points on drills. The complete lack of understanding what web thinning is or does, so people put something that looks cool on the bit but doesnt actually add clearance. When it comes time to resharpen you have to chop off half an inch off the tip because its ruined the geometry.

Dont get me started on fucking shops that use their tools HARD, but refuse to put proper coatings on their carbide. Then are surprised their regrinds dont last.

Its baffling how some shops can stay in business with how inept people seem.

[Anonymous No.1574907]

>>1574895
This is true
Not only that the roll point needed a steeper angle to cut better.

Look at the tip of a regular roll point. The big chisel point is not sharp, it doesnt really cut. It brute forces material out of the way until the cutting edges can hit and cut. It needed to be somewhat steep.
The ancient powers that be decided that 118 was a good middle ground for strength and angle to actually move material.

The split point, same principle applies, but its chisel is much smaller and walks less. And with the big chisel problem gone, you can put a more shallow angle on the cutting edge.

The shallower angles help cut metal better, all around a better metal cutting drill.

The fact that 118 roll point DOES cut metal ok and it cuts wood ok is why its still around. Even though ideally youd have 135 split points for metal and Brad points for wood.

[Anonymous No.1574916]

>>1574892
>135 split point is better for basically everything except they’re more difficult to sharpen. Is this true?

Better for metal. And for how difficult it is to resharpen?
Depends on how tight of a tolerance you need and what you are sharpening it with.

A split point is nothing but a roll point that had a second gash operation done to it.

You can webthin and split any regular roll point drill bit on your bench grinder.
How "good" its going to be depends on if you have man hands, and what you plan to punch holes in.

[Anonymous No.1575350]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sykjB7fS1Po

[Anonymous No.1575364]

Ok guys I got a good thinker for you. How can I modify a 9" southbend lathe to rifle barrels? The obvious solution is to modify the change gear stack to accomplish 10:1-16:1 ish ratios so the machine essentially works as a broach w/ regulated barrel rotation around the broaching tool.

Maybe strip the change gear stack and add a coupler on the change gear side of the spindle shaft. Have the coupler attach it to a helical gear box and couple the output to the power screw on the lathe. Alternatively, I could add an isolated power feed drive.

Either way obviously each pass could only take off a tiny amount, probably like 3-5 thou per pass. The other issue is obviously the tool. Obviously a modified boring bar is the best bet, but idk why rigid one would be with the required aspect ratio.

Any thoughts?

[Bepperoni No.1575393]

>>1574916
>man hands
Is this going to be a problem? My fish always look smaller in pics when they’re held in my bear paws. So I should buy 100pks of 1/4” bits and toss em when they get dull?

[Anonymous No.1575512]

>>1575364
There are a few ways to do this, at least.

mount the cutter to a long thin rod supported at both ends, I would try a tool steel version before springing for a carbide one just because of price. Hell even a mild steel one might tell you what you need to know. Don't get killed trying to turn it, thin pieces turn into death flails quickly. This video illustrates that well, guy trying to turn a long piece in his rapid-turn on a tormach--luckily he didn't get hurt but it thrashed the shit out of his guards.

https://youtu.be/xdmGYjGcaI0?t=1585
It might just be easier to make a device to rotate the barrel at a certain speed sitting on the cross-slide, then use the spindle for indexing, then you have the rifling rod mounted between centers and stationary, and using the ways and carriage traverse to move.

Nope, it's just easier to rig a servo motor to the spindle and carriage traverse, then your in-feed is the cross-slide (manual). As a bonus you have a partial CNC conversion then.

[Anonymous No.1575551]

Damn this hits close to home

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4ljwKvjcT0

[Anonymous No.1575554]

>>1575551
>ave
"No"

[Anonymous No.1575575]

>>1575364
Bore the holes on the lathe
Cut the rifling using a Rifle Button on a hydraulic press.

[Anonymous No.1575617]

>>1575364
What kind of gunsmithing do you plan to do?
Ive always wanted to build a revolver or something like that.

[Anonymous No.1575621]

>>1575617
DIY handgun designs, not for commercial use I'm just a gun nut with an engineering degree.

I'm thinking I want to start with a really goofy single shot derringer.

[Anonymous No.1575626]

>>1575621
barrel blanks are pretty cheap, and then you just ream the chamber.

could painstakingly nail all the angles on a chamber reamer, or have a CNC guy do it, then turn your rifled blank to the sizes you want and ream the chamber (slowly).

remember you can in fact attach grinding wheels to milling spindles and use them as less accurate grinders.

[Anonymous No.1575632]

>>1575621
DIY designs sound cool, ive just considered copying existing designs to be "safer". As least in the beginning.
Sticking with 22lr and such

[Anonymous No.1575633]

>>1575626
If I'm going to burn thousands of dollars to built meme handguns I will never use outside of a range, I want to go all the way and start with barstock myself. Machinists in the 1850s could make derringers on far more primitive machines than I have access to, it is doable.

Rifling is tough because they either didn't bother or used very specialized machines that are extremely rare and expensive now, which is why I am trying to find a way to do it on the cheap.

[Anonymous No.1575636]

>>1575632
I mean we are primarily talking about thick walled pressure vessels with dynamic loading, which can be calculated by hand in about an hour or using ansys in a few minutes. The fun part of the design process will be the firing mechanisms which will be far more interesting, but at least with a single shot derringer not especially hazardous as you don't need to worry about a runaway.

[Anonymous No.1575637]

>>1575633
I agree, if you are going to build a toy gun, why wouldnt you just build the barrel too?

>Rifling is tough because they either didn't bother or used very specialized machines that are extremely rare and expensive now, which is why I am trying to find a way to do it on the cheap.

Look up "rifling buttons"
They are form tools. You ream your barrel, then you press the button through the barrel. It spins on its own, forming the rifling.

Its cheap and quick, and any non "hammer forged" barrels are pretty much buttom formed.

You can buy chinese buttons for like $15 on amazon

[Anonymous No.1575641]

>>1575633
sine bar rifling machine, you will probably have to build the components to convert your lathe to one

[Anonymous No.1575648]

>>1575633
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0AKW-K4RyXo

this guy apparently did it already

[Anonymous No.1575651]

>>1575648
Fuck yeah! I'm going to shoot him a message and ask if he would be comfortable sharing his cad.

[Anonymous No.1575653]

>>1575648
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_yemjfgkE0&list=PL_UkNPv3LycZ3zpEQbF1aATNfuzGH3bW1

whole playlist related

[Anonymous No.1575654]

>>1575651
i think it might actually be a girl

>>1575651
also, grabcad might have a lot of relevant stuff. I have a cnc mill and manual lathe and am confident I could manufacture all the components necessary to build one in a month or two. Lot of work, not hopeless though.

[Anonymous No.1575656]

>>1575654
oh shit this one is dead simple, the very essence of the sine bar style

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orAi33HjWB8&list=PL_UkNPv3LycZ3zpEQbF1aATNfuzGH3bW1&index=2

[Anonymous No.1575660]

>>1575656
I wonder if a taper attachment would be handy for converting a lathe?

[Anonymous No.1575681]

>>1575654
Oh that is your sine bar attachment?

Care to share the cad so I can amend for my southbend?

[Anonymous No.1575696]

>>1575681
>Oh that is your sine bar attachment?
no

[Anonymous No.1575701]

>>1575696
You just confused the fuck out of me, I just reread your old message it makes sense now, sorry lol.

I'm going to cad up one of my antique derringers next weekend and make some drawings. Once I figure out how I am going to rifle I think my first firearm attempt will be a duplication of it.

>pic related, stevens and co from 1860s

[Anonymous No.1575712]

>>1575701
sweet

[Anonymous No.1575717]

>>1575701
if you have any questions about the modeling I can answer them for you

[Anonymous No.1575762]

lathe soft jaw spider
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2j_l_YCT5OA

[Anonymous No.1575802]

>>1575717
Thank you but I am a master modeler at my company in Creo 4. I'll be sure to keep yall updated.

[Anonymous No.1575809]

>>1575802
oh even cooler.

Someday I'm going to buy a millturn just to make machining porn with.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=varrJLbSkzI

[Anonymous No.1575898]

>>1575364
>9"
too short unless you are only doing pistol barrels. to cut rifling you need a special tool and a guide as long as your barrel. you can see on in this video
https://youtu.be/aLUTL5S6yFE?t=107

[Anonymous No.1575915]

>>1575898
>he doesn't know what swing is

[Anonymous No.1575918]

>>1575915
swing isn't important because barrels aren't big around. bed length is what matters.

[Anonymous No.1575930]

>>1575918
Yes, 9" refers to the swing, not length of bed you jagaloon.

[Anonymous No.1575931]

>>1575701
On chrome or nickel plated stuff like that, how do they do anything inside the barrel like boring and rifling with the plating? Plate it all before and then drill the hole? Or drill it first and plate it after with something protecting the inside of the barrel? Also how to keep a smooth transition from the bare metal to plating without it flaking at the edges?

[Anonymous No.1576009]

>>1575930
ok any time someone was talking about swing to be they usually say swing over whatever. just saying x length lathe I would assume is bed length.

[Anonymous No.1576021]

>>1575898
My 16" lathe has a 54" bed.

[Anonymous No.1576095]

>>1576009
Please show me a southbend catalog from any point in history where they sold a lathe with a 9" long bed.

[Anonymous No.1576098]

>>1576095
sorry I don't know about that manufacturer. most the lathes at the shop here are clausings and takisawas.

[Anonymous No.1576099]

>>1576009
>. just saying x length lathe I would assume is bed length.

You would assume wrong
The shorthand number is conventionally the swing.

[Anonymous No.1576402]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0t8GFQr3_g

big ass cutter

[Anonymous No.1576462]

>>1575931
You just plug the bore.

[Anonymous No.1576525]

I have a cherry condition bridgeport and 12" x 48" Atlas lathe, along with a decent shelf of tools. I'm fucking tired of making money for shitbird shop owners who pay me pennies. I make $17/hr setting up and running a 9 axis millturn doing defense aerospace parts and its bullshit. Shop max rate is $23/hr so I'll never get above that, should be a $35/hr job minimum. What the fuck can I make at home that I can actually sell to people? I just need to profit $500/week to survive.

[Anonymous No.1576530]

how would you mill a blade with a cnc center ?
assuming there is a nice flat surfarce to mount the part , my concern is about the curvature of the blade that will make it hard to strap correctly

[Anonymous No.1576549]

>>1576462
they might spin it or something too

[Anonymous No.1576552]

>>1576525
>I make $17/hr setting up and running a 9 axis millturn doing defense aerospace parts
what the fuck. I know people who got hired for more than that in regular job shops while still in school.

[Anonymous No.1576556]

>>1576525
Get the business up and running first.

As for making a product, I think you have to lean on your interests. I like weapons. Glock accessory guy here. I won't lie, with manual machines it might be hard to find something you can make profitably without spending all your day cranking handles and turning knobs. Repairs and job shop work is probably a lot more manageable with manual stuff, you could approach a job shop and ask if they are willing to send some simple work your way.

You're going to be working ON the business before you can work IN the business.

I live in the middle of nowhere and a 35+ guy should make around $25/hr for semi-skilled labor like tool & die.

Back to the product though, you could probably make scope mounts on a manual machine with a relatively simple process and the proper tooling. The people that spend big money on scope mounts want them to be super fucking accurate though, likely doable without a grinder, I would probably lap the rings for cylindricity (I don't know anything about scope mounts though). There are a lot of interesting small machined parts on a lot of things desu. You could even tackle the e-cig or automotive worlds, hell even make machinist tools. There are even shops making go-pro cases. One comes to mind that used a go-fund-me to get started (I think), he now has a nice VMC and is working on version 2. let me find the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVXFTH8eogo

An ultra-luxury phone case might be cool too. I was considering a fairly intricate one with a slide-out keyboard tray (yes on a cell phone) if I could just find the right keyboard to build it around. Phones, ecigs, etc. aren't built for working people to throw in their pocket and not worry about breaking, protecting them might be reasonably valuable.

AR muzzle devices? Flashlight mounts? Flashlights? Weapon lights have serious impact/g-force requirements that lend themselves to high-end manufacturing like machining.

[Anonymous No.1576561]

>>1576530
A ledge to push it up against is a good start I think. If you want to depend on holding it down with those holes in the handle then they need to not change, I went through that with fixturing my parts.

Matching the profile perfectly on funky 3d shapes is not always necessary, but that knife looks fairly simple. A perfect negative of the back side of the blade and you could drop it down into the pocket and have the bottom side of that angled blade surface properly supported.

You should look at John Grimsmo's fixtures, or at least what he is willing to share publicly, it could save you a mountain of fucking time fucking around with custom fixtures. I've went through the process already if you want to ask an amateur industrial designer questions on here too.

https://youtu.be/dUxLLChY8Gk?t=417

[Anonymous No.1576602]

>>1576552
Yeah its fucking retarded. I hired in to run one horizontal mill at night at this wage and it was fine because it was 2 hours of work 6 hours playing on my phone. I jumped at the chance to move up but no pay increase because the economy something something, it's horse shit and I'll be quitting as soon as I can survive on my own.

>>1576556
Those are great suggestions. I'm aware i'll be cranking handles all day but idgaf as long as I can eat and I'm not making my shylock bosses money as slave labor.

The phone case idea is pretty cool. Maybe personalized aluminum, anodized colors, engrave pictures on the back with a chinese cnc router or something I can get cheap. Thanks again mate

[Anonymous No.1576633]

>>1576602
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uw9xBtklDRo

some good info here

[Anonymous No.1576660]

I'm so sick of this jackass on night shift not cleaning up after himself and scrapping jobs that I started. I work hard to keep everything neat around here and it all just gets trashed. Also who the fuck uses coolant when cutting cast iron? My jaws are so caked up in the screw I can barely adjust them.

[Anonymous No.1576683]

>>1576530
>use screw holes as clamping points
>make jig to cut blade at angle
>toe clamps on non machined areas
Get creative

[Anonymous No.1576814]

>>1576633
https://youtu.be/iieIClqv_H4?t=141

[Anonymous No.1576816]

>>1576633
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzH_Pa4KqJw&t=8s

[Anonymous No.1576819]

>>1576814
this one addresses how this guy thinks having his own product is essential because he is making his own work to pay for his machinery, he then goes on to say if you don't know exactly what the print entails it might fuck you pretty hard, then says the OSHA/whatever regulations are a completely different thing to just doing your own product and job shop work to pay for the machine. He says the margins suck on job shop work.

[Anonymous No.1576855]

>>1576816
I find it interesting that this successful machine shop business also offers his own products, and they are a simple thing like very nice knobs for electronics.

[Anonymous No.1576861]

anyone know what would be the best way to machine a star shape around .100 circumscribed circle out of copper to use for a edm electrode?

[Anonymous No.1576863]

>>1576819
Yeah the margins on job shop work are incredibly slim. Like the guy said in the video, china will quote the finished product below your material cost. What's left for us here in the states is work that's too complicated for the chinks to get right, needs to be done instantly, small quantity one time jobs, or can't be exported by law like defense. Lots of very hungry, very skilled shops competing for that work. I would never ever set out to have a job shop, it's 100% all about my own product for me, especially with my manual machines I could never compete.

Do you guys think small (1-2 hp) steam engines could sell? Maybe hook it to an alternator and market as off grid shtf generator?

[Anonymous No.1576869]

>>1576861
rotary table if on a manual machine, here's a video that explains the process pretty well

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0HfNx9FdRc

if on CNC then there's nothing to it, just cam it up and use the right cutter

[Anonymous No.1576871]

>>1576861
does the star shape need perfectly sharp corners on the inner part?

[Anonymous No.1577041]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWWAnlJfiE0

[Anonymous No.1577077]

Broke another fucking endmill today, kill me lads. Is it called a pocket or a slot I'm milling from the flat end of a cylinder towards the center?

[Anonymous No.1577085]

>>1577077
That would be slotting I believe... Slots are probably more narrow and possibly open at one or either end, while a pocket is usually closed at both ends and more rectangular. Fuck if I know though.

What's the setup like? Can you take pictures? What machinery? I can probably help.

slotting sucks anyway, need more info.

[Anonymous No.1577090]

>>1577085
316ss bar 9.5mm dia, needs a 5.50mm slot cut through it. Machinery is a dumpy old manual mill that has all the gears backwards for some reason, so I have to crank it the opposite direction to increase/decrease the spindle RPM.

[Anonymous No.1577092]

my attempt at an electrode

[Anonymous No.1577095]

test cut using it. the process took a lot longer than I thought it would. I need to put like 20 holes in a part and it took 10 minutes to do this one.

are there any tutorials for edm programming online?

[Anonymous No.1577099]

>>1577095
sweet (pic)

[Anonymous No.1577106]

>>1577090
what RPM you running at? those small endmills like super high RPM.

a thin wall like that is going to want to collapse in on the endmill, blowing your tolerance.

[Anonymous No.1577107]

>>1577090
Yeah, that's going to be a shitty part to have to do with an endmill, if you had a bunch of them to do an on size slitting saw with the radius ground onto it would be the way to do it, although if you've got something close you could just rough out the slot and then finish the radius with the endmill.

[Anonymous No.1577113]

>>1577095
look for a manual for the machine?

[Anonymous No.1577125]

>>1577106
Hard to know for sure since the gears are all backwards but I'd estimate about 1000rpm. I've been trying to feed pretty slow and make multiple cuts at about 1mm depth each time, but I'm pretty sure it will come out shitty.

>>1577107
Tool room barely has any endmills that could fit in the slot to begin with so I'm up shit creek.

[Anonymous No.1577127]

>>1577095
is that one of them fancy NC ones or just a regular sinker?

[Anonymous No.1577133]

>>1577127
it's a sodick something or other. it has nc control but I don't know how to program for it so I've just been using the conversational option. we have a wire one too but it's down for now.

[Anonymous No.1577134]

>>1577125
saw blade + arbor like this guy suggested?
>>1577107

[Anonymous No.1577135]

>>1577125
>Tool room barely has any endmills that could fit in the slot to begin with so I'm up shit creek.

If you are really motivated you could grind a HSS toolbit and put it in a shank you put in the mill, only needs one flute and might be super slow and shitty, but would work.

[Anonymous No.1577138]

>>1577125
Yeah, do you have access to any sort of grinder setup? If you run out of endmills you might want to look at the possibility of doing it single point.

[Anonymous No.1577143]

>>1577125
1k rpm is slow for that small of a cutter, my clapped out knee mill will do 2k rpm and the last time I used a small endmill I think I cranked it up to like 1500 before it was getting loud

put 'er in high gear, and remember in high gear the gears might run backward.

[Anonymous No.1577147]

>>1577143
I must've messed up my speed calculation then because I got 1370rpm when I did the math. Like I said, the actual rpm is all guess work; when the spindle spins faster the number on the dial goes lower and vice versa.

>>1577135
Could give it a shot I suppose.

>>1577138
Single point? Like a tiny fly cutter?

>>1577134
Don't know if the shop has any saw blades but I'd have to check with the foreman anyway and that dude hates me.

The job was supposed to be for a more experienced guy anyway but he wasn't in and I didn't have any jobs on hand to do.

[Anonymous No.1577209]

>>1577147
well you'll surely figure it out

[Anonymous No.1577255]

http://www.manufacturinglounge.com/tool-helix-affects-manufacturing/

end mill helix angles

When determining what helix to use, it depends highly on what material you are cutting. In general, heavy cutting where finish isn’t important, a lower helix angle is the way to go. When you do care about tolerance and finish, then higher helix angles are much better.

Now that we have nailed down the purpose of helix angles, let’s see how they vary by metal. The following chart below will briefly outline the helix angles for different metals.

Steel: 30˚

Stainless Steel: 30˚

Brass: 13˚

Plastic: 40˚

Zinc: 40˚

Copper: 40˚

Titanium: 35˚

Aluminum: 45˚

[Anonymous No.1577258]

>>1574668
Probably will eventually.

For now, they're making too much money selling all the cnc gcode to the Chinese and Russians

[Anonymous No.1577260]

>>1577258
kind of doubt it, there would be real consequences, this is not grandma's facebook profile data anon.

[Anonymous No.1577593]

>>1573498
Hi. I'm te OP who started making these threads. I didn't continue because I wanted to now if someone would start them. I'm glad to see I don't have to be around for these threads to spawn.
also, I'm as an aprentice in a factory right now, working on a bridge milling machine. man, waking up at 5:00am sucks.
anyway. good job to the OP on this thread.I'll be around

[Anonymous No.1577725]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUjmemIjjbY

[Anonymous No.1577726]

>trying to tap hole
>for some reason it's not working
>can't fucking see because no door override
>don't want to fuck with things blind and risk crashing
>give up and try to tap it by hand
>it goes crooked
FUCK

[Anonymous No.1577729]

>>1577726
Yep.

[Anonymous No.1577730]

>>1576561
>>1576683
thx a lot for thooses advices !

[Anonymous No.1577732]

>>1577730
I hope you're European and not Chinese.

[Anonymous No.1577773]

>>1577726
reminder to sink your thread insert nice and deep so that it's below the surface even when torqued. a plane fell out of the sky once when a sticky-up thread insert held flange faces apart.

[Anonymous No.1578176]

>>1577773
good advice

>tfw tapping a part held down poorly and it lifts up and breaks the tap

[Anonymous No.1578188]

I was trying to drill some 8mm holes in 8mm thick steel bars on a drill press, and it completely shrugged off all HSS drillbits, they didn't so much get destroyed, just stopped biting altogether after 1-2mm of drilling. The bars were very old, originally rusted to shit, but I grinded the ~1mm rust off before drilling. The same drillbits I used I've drilled steel and stainless steel with, without any issues, they could drill steel even after failing to drill these old bars.
Adding cutting oil didn't help, the only way I could drill through them was with carbide endmills, but I don't want to break my expensive endmills on stupid shit. What the fuck was up with that steel? Were there some historical alloys that were extremely hard to machine, or did rusting go deeper than what was visible on the surface?

[Anonymous No.1578190]

>>1578188
Work hardening, you didn't feed hard enough

[Anonymous No.1578197]

>>1578190
No, I thought about that, but I fed as hard as the cheapo drill press would let me. That it happened with the 8mm drill is one thing, but it also happened with the 4mm bit (on two other locations as well). And I've drilled 10-15mm steel bars before, it never happened on those. Also it was screeching the entire time with all bits except carbide, even after adding oil, despite only running like 200RPM.

[Anonymous No.1578219]

>>1578197
>8mm
>at 200rpm

damn anon, speed 'er up

[Anonymous No.1578225]

>>1578190
maybe the material was pre-hard?

tool steel will harden if you look at it funny too btw anon

>>1578197

[Anonymous No.1578226]

>>1578197
the fact that it was squealing tells me it was pre-hard or work hardened, whatever you think about it

a squealing noise that isn't just chatter means the material is harder than your tool. If you want to prove it, go turn some pre-hard steel with a regular old carbide insert. SKKKWEEEEEE

[Anonymous No.1578228]

>>1578219
It was already squeaking at 200RPM so going faster wouldn't help.
>>1578225
>>1578226
Pre-hardened could be. Weird thing is that my bandsaw went through it, although it was making a racket. The bar was actually bent into an S-shape, it was one of those spring mounts they use for rakes on passive cultivators. Probably was bent under heat and then it hardened? I don't know why you'd harden something you want to use as a spring.

[Anonymous No.1578233]

>>1578228
spring steel is pretty tough shit anon

[Anonymous No.1578244]

>>1578233
I didn't think they would bother using spring steel for something like that, I can't imagine mild steel wouldn't do the job.

[Anonymous No.1578267]

>>1578244
Been trying to find something on Google, but to no avail; how can I tell if it's spring steel or something that got hardened? And what are my options for drilling it if it's spring steel, only cobalt and carbide?

[Anonymous No.1578271]

>>1578267
I don't even know, they probably don't make much out of spring steel besides springs. I think those thin metal bands on pallets are spring steel.

[Anonymous No.1578272]

>>1578244
the elastic range of the material might have been a part of the design, in which case you might be able to figure out what it might be.

[Anonymous No.1578274]

>>1578271
>>1578272
This is something that was probably made in like the 50s in the USSR.
Another piece in the puzzle is that when I was taking apart their old mounts, I found that one of the 5 springs had part of it broken clear in half, surprisingly it was the middle of the flat part that mounted to the frame, which is secured by plates from both above and below. Could be evidence of unintentional hardening.
I'm leaning towards hardened and not spring, in which case I'll toss them out and make rigid straight mounts for the rakes from mild steel.

[Anonymous No.1578291]

is it normal for annealed 4140 to be 43 rockwell? I thought it would be softer than that. a friend bought some to make a part out of and it's beating the shit out of his tooling.

[Anonymous No.1578383]

Is there any functional difference in edge finder diameters?

[Anonymous No.1578403]

>>1574856
Big manufacturer. The amount of tool waste there is amazing. Carbide drills are our big one, threadmills are on the side. I'll take a stupid pic tomorrow.

[Anonymous No.1578416]

>>1578403
>The amount of tool waste there is amazing
I mean isn't that kind of the point? Figure out how fast the tools can be run while maintaining a decent life?

[Anonymous No.1578427]

>>1578383
What you can fit it into.

[Anonymous No.1578429]

>>1578427
I meant as far as accuracy.

[Anonymous No.1578438]

>>1578429
the size of the imperfections in the surface that it spans

[Anonymous No.1578829]

How is everyone else's friday going?

broke 2 tools today, needed to slightly modify a model.

[Anonymous No.1578833]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4uMX5mWAF4

[Anonymous No.1578837]

I have to say, this Helical h45 aluminum rougher endmill is probably quite a bit stronger than others.

I think the carbide is a finer grain than my lakeshore endmills, I managed to jam this endmill into the side of a part with it pushing on the shank part, not the flutes, it didn't even break the tool, just popped the part out of my fixture and threw it, tool is fine.

Pretty impressive.

[Anonymous No.1579044]

asking again if there's an easy way of makng a part with a 90 degree bend other than making a straight part and then bending it

[Anonymous No.1579062]

>>1579044
Depends on how thin it is...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJIs0LihNPQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2q60iFRfag8

[Anonymous No.1579064]

https://youtu.be/kDek3MKJ2S0?t=144

lathe broaching tool lol

[Anonymous No.1579074]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gjfpqi0RN7o

[Anonymous No.1579077]

>>1579062
around 3/16 round bar

[Anonymous No.1579099]

I did a thing. 6040 chinesium router. Worked fine on the plastic card, hope it doesn't shit itself scratching the aluminum. Single flute 30 degree engraver.

[Anonymous No.1579119]

>>1579044
CNC milling or clamp it to a face plate and lathe the round part?

I don't know what the hell you're trying to make, but if it's a 3/16 round bar bent into an L shape then yes you could mill it, depending on how long it is.

[Anonymous No.1579433]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WoPPwGxgWEY

[Anonymous No.1579708]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTz2P5RaoDk

Seeing the blocks of aluminum on the table and the bench by the wall with a stack of tools and holders actually made me realize how not so far this shop is from mine. The difference is a bunch of aerospace work and multiple millions of dollars in machinery.

[Kevin Van Dam !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1579712]

>>1579708
>just one $100k CNC machine and my shop would be just as good as theirs!

[Anonymous No.1579904]

I need a set of 20 robot wheels (60mm dia) cut out of 2mm thick aluminium (as well as some other stuff I'm still cadding up), and I know laser cutting aluminium is a total bitch. I've been looking at CNC services online, particular cotter.dk, and their prices for aluminium are about as high as I'd expect. Do you guys know anything about getting stuff laser cut in China or India? I know that it can be an order of magnitude cheaper, but I haven't been able to find a reputable looking workshop that takes small scale orders like mine.

[Anonymous No.1579943]

>>1579904
>Do you guys know anything about getting stuff laser cut in China or India?
Fuck you. Buy local and have the bastards use a waterjet.

[Anonymous No.1579989]

>>1579712
lol more like 3 quarter million machines

[Anonymous No.1580111]

Has anyone built their own lathe?
This guy did and it turned out pretty good, I think i may have to try it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ob5v5KI9ngM

[Anonymous No.1580238]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yWlOh71EW1s

this PM cnc conversion kit looks okay

[Anonymous No.1580242]

>>1580111
Do you have the tools to do it? The willingness?

[Anonymous No.1580250]

>>1580111
I bet turning an I beam into one big V surface might give good results, then the "flats" be round, the saddle would need to very rigid with regard to holding the round bars.

a square piece welded on each end could support the rods.

[Anonymous No.1580254]

>>1580250
whether the rods will do more to constrain the saddle during cutting than the big V way idk but they should provide more rigidity to the I beam.

[Anonymous No.1580259]

>>1580250
>>1580254
common i-beams are at most .5 thick or so, apparently

[Anonymous No.1580272]

>>1580111
https://youtu.be/Gd0TH7RH9vY?list=PLzWhXcpu1Xro1kq8wYep0pjxPxhQdJIiF&t=387

not what I would consider good, but it probably works.

[Anonymous No.1580273]

>>1580272
>>1580238
just fuckin' mount some linear rails to something metal for the bed

[Anonymous No.1580274]

>>1580273
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F1vNveXSprc

[Anonymous No.1580276]

>>1580274
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xiLSnykUKXo

[Anonymous No.1580762]

Hey /emt/
When you finish using a surface grinder, do you park the table off to one of the sides or do you park it centrally?
At my old job, they would bitch at me if I didn't leave the table off to the side because it would apparently wear down the middle of the lead screw
At my new job, they bitch at me if I don't leave the table in the center because the weight of the table is offset

Who is right here?

[Anonymous No.1580772]

>>1580762

Neither. If it's not moving it doesn't matter where it sits.

If you want to be REALLY technical, leaving it off to the side is worse because the extra force generated would accelerate creep. However, the timescales involved for that to become relevant, even for something as precise as a surface grinder, are far, far greater than any reasonably-expected service life of the machine.

[Anonymous No.1580788]

>>1580772
Duly noted. Thanks anon.

[Anonymous No.1580797]

>>1580762
leaving it off to the side leaves it unbalanced and the floor or machine might shift under the weight over time, requiring you to re-level it.

just leave the weight in the center.

[Anonymous No.1580801]

>>1580762
>Who is right here?
Whoever is currently signing your paycheck.

[Anonymous No.1581151]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QhpOg186fks

[Anonymous No.1581201]

>>1581151
>AVE

"no"

[Anonymous No.1581205]

What do you think of this?

I would like to make small runs of parts and sell them as a side gig, been looking into CNCing a mini mill.
Realistically, this isnt all that much more.
Is it cheap because its shit or what?

https://peoria.craigslist.org/tls/d/peoria-tree-journeyman-425-cnc-mill/6850681732.html

[Anonymous No.1581213]

>>1581205
make sure it works, the power drawbar works for quickly changing tools, and that you can DNC programs to it.

It's where you connect a PC to it via parallel port and drip-feed small bits of the program to the machine, and the machine runs the program bit by bit.

having a parallel port doesn't mean it's possible to drip feed it, you have to find the manual for the machine, or more specifically, the manual for the controller.

They probably have much nicer machines that have enclosures and tool changers, I would buy that thing if you can use it for long programs and it isn't broken.

[Anonymous No.1581301]

>>1576525
You can lease a shitbox HAAS cnc mill and lathe for way cheaper than whatever $ amount just popped into your head. Google it. If you can find a contract with some random ass electronics company in town u could pump out thousands of Delrin spacers or whatever the fuck they want ina day.

[Anonymous No.1581363]

how do I learn g code for edm? I just finished learning all the shit for regular machining and now I have to learn everything all over again.

[Anonymous No.1581368]

>>1581363
um can you just use cam software?

[Anonymous No.1581370]

>>1581205
usually it's cheap because it's worn out or less useful, make sure you can DNC to it.

[Anonymous No.1581373]

>>1581205
That's not a lot of horsepower for a machine that size and there's no tool changer. Also a lot of plastics are surprisingly abrasive so the ways might actually be fucked despite what they say. Go in and ask if they can do a quick setup to just cut a simple circle then take a mic with you and check that it's cutting within a few tenths.

[Anonymous No.1581374]

>>1581368
I would have to learn that too. wtf is loran motion?

[Anonymous No.1581375]

>>1581373
>That's not a lot of horsepower for a machine that size

my ass it isn't.

[Anonymous No.1581379]

>>1581375
>twice the size of a Minimill but the same horsepower
Depending on what you use it for, 7.5HP really isn't that much.

[Anonymous No.1581382]

>>1581379
It's enough to kill an idiot and the guy next to him. Most knee mills are 2 or 3 HP.

[Anonymous No.1581436]

what speeds and feeds do you guys usually run a single form thread mill in aluminum?

it's a 4 flute.

[Anonymous No.1581458]

>>1581436
until this post i had no idea those thingies existed so take this with a grain of salt the size of a baseball, but single form threading looks to be about the worst possible setup for chattering.
spread some filings out on the part and tune the spindle speed up and down during the cut until you find a null spot in the resonance. on a large plate or a hollow casting that might be a different speed for every hole!

[Anonymous No.1581776]

is it normal for edm to take like 15 minutes to make a 1/8 hole through .060 of steel? I don't know what I'm doing so I'm using the settings left on the machine by someone else. I think I can turn the speed up but then I'm worried about burning through my electrode.

[Anonymous No.1581799]

>>1581776
Turn up the speed, ya poof

[Anonymous No.1581867]

diy small round lap

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1DaOBPyo5e8

[Anonymous No.1581876]

>>1581799
there's a slider that says 1 is longer electrode life and 7 is faster speed. I think I had it on 5 unless it was getting overridden by another setting. how long will my electrode last on the fastest setting?

[Anonymous No.1581882]

>>1581867
Peter really deserves more subs than just 30k. He's just so knowledgeable

[Anonymous No.1581892]

I was trying to thread some drill rod today but I kept getting chatter. I had D in my g76 line set to .0005 but it watching the position screen it was taking nearly .006 off on the last pass. is there some other setting I forgot that would make it increase depth as it goes? I was going to just rewrite it with a bunch of g92s but I ran out of stock.

[Anonymous No.1581955]

>>1581892
what is "D" and "g76" ?

[Anonymous No.1581975]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LlSO63IXG2w

^ grinding wheel on a mill

[Anonymous No.1581977]

>>1581955
D is initial depth of cut. it's supposed to get smaller but for some reason it was doing the opposite. I was making buttress threads so I had to use radial infeed. I don't know if omitting A and P was fucking things up since I thought they were supposed to default to that.

[Anonymous No.1582468]

>>1581977
you using the programming manual for your controller or a different one?

[Anonymous No.1582514]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4ltHDpxrbI

[Anonymous No.1582518]

>>1582468
it's the haas one line format

[Anonymous No.1582532]

coolant
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jK1DoRiu3Cg

[Anonymous No.1582557]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A6_w6sNuk0Q

[Anonymous No.1582566]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THkb-x35fwc

lathe leveling

[Anonymous No.1582588]

Woah this is pretty cool.

plastic spools for 3d printers that burn away and leave 3% ash or so, you 3d print the model, coat it in a ceramic liquid, then bake it and your mold it formed around the plastic. Then you add some sprues and pour your metal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4--fiBGMIpc

[Anonymous No.1582607]

>>1582588
The easier method is to print your thing, then burying it in sand and pouring the metal directly on it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LEAUbd2TNsY

[Anonymous No.1582624]

>>1582607
the ceramic coated polycast molds are probably way better for intricate detail than sand though

[Anonymous No.1583000]

>break my center drill because I forgot to turn spindle speed back up after tapping a hole
I don't have a carbide drill to try to drill it out so can I just edm through everything at the final hole size and not worry about drilling?

[Anonymous No.1583111]

>>1583000
In my experience, EDM is only an option if there is no other option. Driving down to a local tooling store that has something carbide, driving back, and finishing the thing will probably be faster and cheaper when considering skilled labor cost.

[Anonymous No.1583125]

>>1583111
I'm the only one doing any labor so it's however long it takes to find the right size electrode and setting the part up vs how long it takes to order a carbide center drill since I would have to get it online

[Anonymous No.1583126]

>>1583125
That makes sense then. Go forth and wrangle your angry pixies.

I've had good luck with pecking away HSS using old carbide endmills, it's saved me in a pinch.

[Anonymous No.1583251]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8QSpM0vY3OA

helical drilling with an endmill, pretty cool

[Anonymous No.1583270]

>>1583251
>5 axis helical drilling
Why would you do this over using a drill?

[Anonymous No.1583274]

>>1583270
well it's supposed to be faster, but I don't really know.

https://www.openmind-tech.com/en/cam/hpc-high-performance-cutting/drilling.html

[Anonymous No.1583422]

>>1583000
depending on the part/hole depth and how late you wanna stay at work i would just burn until the center drill is out then finish the hole normally, unless its a thin part or you have a hole popper

>>1581876
thats not really something we can tell you from here. what are you T on/ T off setting? what material is the electrode? how critical is the hole? do you have a roughing and finishing electrode? how good is your flushing?

[Anonymous No.1583495]

>>1583422
it's a through hole around 1/4 deep

>>1583422
>what are you T on/ T off setting?
I don't even know what that means. I'm trying to learn this shit but there's no one to teach me and the documentation that came with the machine isn't that helpful. the electrode is copper. I posted it earlier in the thread. I don't have a roughing one. I could try to make one but I don't know what it should look like.

[Anonymous No.1583496]

>>1583270
Do you know how much a 6 inch drill costs and how much HP it requires?

[Anonymous No.1583535]

>>1583251
What kind of cam software even does helical drilling?

[Anonymous No.1583644]

>>1583496
Not really, you get the biggest drill you have (or the biggest your machine can feasibly use) and then whatever endmill is around for circmill toolpath. Even the lower end machines can usually do a 1" hole, and every shop will have some endmills that'll 3 axis helical or even 2 axis circular pocket mill that shit like it's going out of style. That 5 axis path really isn't winning any MRR competitions any time soon from what I can see.

[Anonymous No.1583712]

>>1583270
>>1583496
>>1583644
It's a tapered tool holder you mongs, it's so you don't smack it on the side of the hole.

[Anonymous No.1584121]

>>1583644
right, the 5-axis helical drilling will keep more clearance around the sides of the endmill and probably increase tool life

[Anonymous No.1584124]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4_Kd-HyrDg

I'm getting pretty jealous of all these people making nice /diy/ cnc machines with linear rails.

What kind of performance expectation is there for that epoxy granite stuff compared to a big piece of durabar?

A piece that big, if you can find it, is probably $300 at least.

[Anonymous No.1584304]

>>1584124
PHEW time to buy a cast iron smelter

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/63380703

[Anonymous No.1584306]

>>1584304
and thats not even gray iron, just ductile

>>1583535
oh sorry, hypermill
https://www.openmind-tech.com/en/cam/hpc-high-performance-cutting/drilling.html

[Anonymous No.1584314]

>>1574854
>Fucked over my tax return

You paid less in income tax overall last year and you're mad because you gave less of a loan to the government? Thatcher was right. Poverty is a personality problem, not a money problem.

[Anonymous No.1584419]

Good monday morning /emt/

get those spindles turning!

Also can anybody bestow some advice about what to look for when applying for to a shop? I just lost my first apprentice job due to outside personal issues and I'm currently on the hunt for another.

[Anonymous No.1584424]

>>1584314
Removing tax deductions for the middle class and adding them for the upper class is not "paying less income tax".

[Anonymous No.1584583]

>>1584424
How many people in the middle class do you think actually had enough deductions to be more than the standard deduction raise?

[Anonymous No.1584668]

>>1584424
if you're getting a deduction you set your witholding wrong

[Anonymous No.1584989]

>>1584419
I would probably look for a shop that has 5-axis pallet-changing machines and maybe some automation. If you don't find that stuff, or the machines are old, it might mean the business hasn't found where it needs to go yet. Is the leadership trying to continually improve the business or are they set in their ways?

But more important than that is the business being willing to invest in their employees, that's exactly how you can actually work harder and succeed for it. Do they have a pipeline for doing setups and CAM?

[Anonymous No.1585113]

woohoo

mcmaster shit arrived

[Anonymous No.1585352]

still having a hard time cutting these threads on drill rod. any ideas how to get it right?

[Anonymous No.1585355]

>>1585352
Change inserts, do spring passes, take smaller doc, increase feed, cut a thread relief.

[Anonymous No.1585357]

>>1585355
there is no insert you can see my tool in the picture. major diameter is .534 and I took .002 off per pass until .480, then .001 until 465, and .0005 to the minor diameter of .460. how small should I go? someone else I talked to about it said that it could be vibration from not having a live center in the other end.

[Anonymous No.1585385]

>>1585352
>>1585357
Your tooling looks weird.
Are you using a 60 deg included point tool plunging straight in at 90deg?

[Anonymous No.1585401]

>>1585352
that isnt a 60deg thread anon... im going to assume youve cut it with that weird 90 degree edge on purpose. if i remember right these are excellent at transfering force in one direction but absolutely useless going the other way. what specifically is the problem youre having cutting it? ive seen much worse everything from hand ground HSS tooling

[Anonymous No.1585411]

>>1585385
>>1585401
it's a 45 degree buttress thread. I'm making a specialized tap. the problem is the chatter on the thread flanks which looks shitty and I'm assuming will transfer to whatever I try to tap with it.

[Anonymous No.1585444]

>>1585352
the tapping cycle should have depths of cut getting lower as the cycle progresses, did you grind your own tool?

[Anonymous No.1585446]

>>1585357
try adding more relief to the tool

[Anonymous No.1585453]

Hi guys I got an odd question for you. I want to make a bunch of proprietary hardware for something I want to sell in small quantities on etsy to help prevent unauthorized access. It seems like no matter what I will have to mill the custom driver and bolt heads manually, but I don't want to have to single point thread everything. I want to use a really strange thread set up like 73 degree thread profile at 21.5 tpi with nominal diameter of 7mm. Obviously this means either single point machining or I need to figure out how to make custom taps and dies.

Hence my question. Anyone know how to make taps and dies on a lathe?

[Anonymous No.1585454]

>>1585444
the tapping cycle wasn't working as expected so I used 51 g92 lines. I made that tool but I checked it with an optical comparator and it doesn't look jagged or messed up.

>>1585446
on which face?

[Anonymous No.1585455]

>>1585454
relief to the face under the cutting edges, it might be rubbing, how does the cut sound? does it sound like it's cutting good or does it sound like it's rubbing?

[Anonymous No.1585460]

>>1585453
you could try a rotary broach head for mill/lathe to make the internal feature, then you would have to make a broach. Manually milling something with tiny endmills is going to take a looong time, and a 10k+ rpm spindle would be more necessary.

To make taps, probably just like the guy is doing. Thread a piece of tool steel, mill reliefs that form the cutting edges and flutes, then harden it.

However, when you get up and running you should probably order a custom tap from one of the carbide grinding shops. I guess it doesn't have to be carbide, but even HSS would be better.

I've never turned HSS.

>>1585454
could also try using cam software to get the tool to enter the thread at an angle, if you aren't doing that. like diagonal to the center of rotation to emulate a 30 degree compound increment.

[Anonymous No.1585461]

>>1585460
well I guess that isn't true, I have turned HSS just not much. added some relief to a tap with a ceramic insert a couple times.

[Anonymous No.1585462]

>>1585460
>looks
hey. I have actually turned HSS before. I annealed some broken drill bits and turned them into scratch awls and center punches before heat treating them again. I guess my main question is how could I cut the threads for the taps/dies on my lathe if the feed rate, 21.5 tpi for example isnt in my change gear stack.

[Anonymous No.1585465]

>>1585462
oh then that's the hard part, figure out the gear ratio, I think there is a section of the machinery's handbook talking about common gearing ratios, then add the appropriate gear to do that TPI

it's probably the "back gear" or whatever on the far left of the machine, not the christmas tree stack there

[Anonymous No.1585467]

>>1585465
No No I mean it literally doesn't exist on my lathe. The entire reason I want something arbitrary like 21.5 tpi is because most machines can't do it without heavy modification. Even though I have almost 2 full sets of change gears I can't nig up the correct ratio.

Perhaps with an auxiliary drive?

[Anonymous No.1585468]

>>1585467
you should be able to rig up the right ratio with the right gear.

but yeah if you want you can cnc it

[Anonymous No.1585484]

>>1585467
>The entire reason I want something arbitrary like 21.5 tpi is because most machines can't do it without heavy modification

Itll take 10 minutes on any CNC to copy it.
You are complicating things for no tangible value in the end.

[Anonymous No.1585488]

>>1585467
the gear might not be one that comes with the lathe, obviously...

[Anonymous No.1585489]

>>1585484
this is true, I could probably even threadmill it on my Tormach if it's short enough

the OP picture is even a tiny threadmill, multi rows of flutes so maybe not the best way to go for oddball threading, but still

[Anonymous No.1585493]

>>1585484
ok and if I want I could drill out the fastener with an HSS bit, the point is to make it more difficult for the average jagoff to open.

[Anonymous No.1585494]

>>1585484
>>1585493
I'm sorry I have to follow up. Like wtf is your point if a CNC can copy it? Do you not use locks because someone can get past it with an oxy-acetelyne torch or thermite?

What a dumb comment you made, delete it and neck yourself.

[Anonymous No.1585495]

>>1585493
>for the average jagoff to open.

Ah yes, the types of customers that arent going to try and rip you off.
I like how poorly you think of your potential customers.

[Anonymous No.1585496]

>>1585455
it sounds ok at first but then it gets that coarse sound like when you're using a cutoff tool. I already turned down the depth of cut but maybe I should do it more.

[Anonymous No.1585497]

>>1585496
you should probably add more clearance to the sides below the cutting edges then

[Anonymous No.1585498]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlI9J0Whp-s

[Anonymous No.1585500]

>>1585495
Tell me why a consumer of a desk toy/jacobs ladder needs to open up a shell protecting them from the high voltage.

[Anonymous No.1585504]

>>1585500
dude you could just red loctite or green loctite the screw in...

That's what I'm doing, I just talked to the Henkel adhesives people today on the phone, they said for blind holes you want to put the loctite into the hole instead of on a small screw so it works up into the threads from the air pressure.

They suggested for my normal temperature repetitive shock application the loctite 263 threadlocker will work fine as a more or less permanent assembly.

[Anonymous No.1585505]

>>1585504
another thing about my specific project, is the low profile screws I'm using use a smaller hex key than normal so it's easier to strip out.

No way someone could undo this thing without a torch.

[Anonymous No.1585506]

>>1585504
>>1585505
#6-32 low profile screws from mcmaster btw

[Anonymous No.1585507]

>>1585504
How can I justify 200% markup if I just use threadlocker instead of custom brass fasteners.

[Anonymous No.1585508]

>>1585507
make it look pretty?

[Anonymous No.1585509]

>>1585500
>>1585494
Tell me how having an unusual pitch and thread size is going to stop a consumer from opening a toy.
This is the dumbest shit I have ever heard.

[Anonymous No.1585510]

>>1585507
>expecting people to pay extra because of a one off fastener using weird pitches and sizes when they bolt will literally never be removed and the customer will never see it

[Anonymous No.1585512]

>>1585494
You never said what your project was

Saying "most machines cant replicate it" is stupid because the ones who would replicate your shit 1 to 1 would be counterfeiters who are using CNC.

Someone copying your design for functionality would use standard sizes.
This was all assuming you actually had something impressive or new worth stealing.

Not just some fucking wankery desk toy

[Anonymous No.1585513]

>>1585510
Would you sell someone a fancy looking desk made of particle board?

[Anonymous No.1585515]

>>1585513
Ikea does, and they make a decent amount of money doing it.
You are increasing your cycle times, your lead times, your raw material costs. And you are getting literally nothing in return for it.

Your project is doomed at this point, have a little more sense anon.

[Anonymous No.1585518]

>>1585515
>Ikea does, and they make a decent amount of money doing it.
I asked if YOU would. I'm not trying to make a living, just get my makers mark onto peoples desks as a hobby.

[Anonymous No.1585523]

>>1585518
I'm not him but maybe if you put a nice surface on it like stainless steel sheet. Probably what the cheap industrial brand I can't remember is.

[Anonymous No.1585526]

>>1585518
I have no qualms using particle board, if it works suitable for its intended purpose. Its about choosing your markets wisely. There is nothing inherently wrong with a particle board desk, except that Ikea does it better and cheaper than you ever could.

So the average joe generally has to stick to niche, non mass produced stuff.

But you need to use common sense. If you arent looking to make sustainable money why bother?
What good is a makers mark if you built 15 of something and then quit?

You are wasting resources on something that doesnt matter. You could take that money and effort and put it into the rest of the product.

You are going to price yourself out of business doing dumb shit, or if hell freezes over and you need to scale up your production youll have to "cut corners" on your other batches or not actually be able to meet demands.

[Anonymous No.1585552]

>>1585526
I'm not entirely sure small guys have much more overhead. Depends how much they are willing to work to grow and expand the business rather than sit pretty and relax.

[Anonymous No.1585592]

esprit edm CAM software looks neat, like a 5 axis EDM CAM package or something

[Anonymous No.1585593]

hydraulic and pneumatic fixture clamps http://www.vektek.com/Product.aspx?CategoryUid=6

[Anonymous No.1585601]

hello everyone
I wanna make small firearms parts. can I get away with a small 7x12 mini lathe? considering busybee/king canada

[Anonymous No.1585605]

>>1585601
what kind of firearms parts?

that lathe is just too small in all likelihood.

[Anonymous No.1585607]

>>1585605
I have one of those really rare guns- so firing pins, springs, gas piston, maybe do an entire bolt assembly group(ar-18 style).

[Anonymous No.1585638]

>>1585607
small parts? sure why not, but the tailstock looks shitty. not much travel and no locking lever, need a wrench to turn the nut.

threading will suck on it, doesn't look like it even has a gearbox. get used to changing those gears out.

spin stuff at a high RPM and use a sharp tool.

[Anonymous No.1585652]

>>1585601
no those things suck. the best you can do with them is make a replacement pin maybe.

[Anonymous No.1585656]

>>1585601
>>1585607
CIA nigger detected

[Anonymous No.1585676]

>>1585656
making your own guns is legal, retard

[Anonymous No.1585682]

>>1585652
well that's a bit off, they do suck, but you can actually use them to make useful things.

Just not very quickly or easily, such a small lathe will require sharp positive inserts for lower cutting forces and even then you can take maybe 0.030" max roughing cuts, now imagine you need to take off 0.25" and you can see how many passes that's going to take, about 9 passes.

The thing is, beginners don't really have the skills and experience to effectively use such an underpowered lathe, I think. It is far better to buy a bigger used lathe.

[Anonymous No.1585727]

anyone here run a sherline?

[Anonymous No.1585733]

>>1585727
Yes! Our lab at school has CNCed sherline lathes and minimills, both work very well. I have personally seen the lathe cutting high carbon steel.

[Anonymous No.1585736]

>>1585733
what model does your school have?

[Anonymous No.1585772]

>>1585736
IDK I'm in the building right now I'm going to run downstairs and get pictures really quick for you. Do you want any specific details while I'm there besides the models?

[Anonymous No.1585801]

>>1585772
steal something for me.

[Anonymous No.1585810]

>>1585801
No im good. Not worth getting kicked out of engineering a month before graduation>>1585801

[Anonymous No.1585813]

>>1585810
that is literally the exact model I'm looking to buy right now. absolutely based. do you like it?

[Anonymous No.1585821]

>>1585810
>>1585727
is there a way to increase the swing on these? like a mod or something

[Anonymous No.1585826]

>>1585813
Full disclosure I only used it for CNC credit I needed in a class, and have only turned wax and delrin on it, although I know a TA that used it once with some annealed high carbon steel to make a pin for something. I have access to a different shop that has an enco toolroom lathe and an old southbend so I work there almost exclusively now. I can say when I took measurements after CNCing my parts they were all within about a thou of my cad drawings. They are very nice if I was looking to downsize from my home lathe (and I may) I would consider buying one. The mill seems like much more of a toy to me than the lathe, but I'm sure it could cut steel fine if you baby it enough.

[Anonymous No.1585827]

>>1585607
>entire bolt assembly group(ar-18 style)
You ain't doing that shit on that lathe. I'll tell you right now you either need a lathe with live tooling or a milling machine

[Anonymous No.1585829]

>>1585827
thanks. I plan on getting a lathe as well

[Anonymous No.1585833]

>>1585827
>>1585829
*mill

[Anonymous No.1585839]

>>1585827
I plan on getting a mill too

[Anonymous No.1585909]

finally got it to look like a tap. now I just have to square the end off and harden it.

[Anonymous No.1585911]

when I tried to make my spiral toolpath in mastercam it looked ok in the simulation, but when I posted the code it had a bunch of noise blocks. for example a should have been at 90 for the entire program, but every line would have a90.001 or a89.998 or similar. is there an option I have to check to clean that out?

[Anonymous No.1585915]

>>1585411
nah only the cutting edges u have yet to put on there will form the threads. make those good and ur golden. u can always follow up with a file and or emery paper if u want to make ur shit smoother than what u can achieve with ur hss tooling

[showscore No.1585948]

>>1585821
p easy you just put a riser undetr the head/tail/toolpost.
https://www.sherline.com/product/1291-headstock-riser-block-set/

>>1585727
i do the taig lathe. many mods though

[Anonymous No.1585950]

>>1585948
neat

[Anonymous No.1585953]

what is the best way to hold a long rod with a spline along the length and another one about halfway down so I can edm it? I need to sink some holes along the length at 10, 11, 1 and 2 o'clock. there's a magnetic vise in there now but I can't think of any way to sit my piece on it.

[Anonymous No.1585955]

>>1585953
forgot drawing

[Anonymous No.1585969]

>>1585911
Arc/line filtering might help

[Anonymous No.1586092]

>>1585969
I think I saw that option but I didn't know what to do with it. what even causes the junk code to begin with?

[Anonymous No.1586109]

>>1586092
You give it a value, for roughing passes 10% of your "stock to leave" for finishing, usually not more that .001-.002" and ass little as a couple tenths for 3D surfaces. What the option does is allow MasterCAM to round it's locational calculations. So instead of five billion xy points every few tenths, it will create a single arc wherever it can within the tolerance you set. Little bullshit like the couple seconds back and forth you're getting are caused by minor imperfections in the wireframe or surface and the program's limits of handling such details in real time.
But long story short, turn it on, set it to like 1 thou unless it's a very accurate part and tell it to round stuff in your rotary axis instead of XY.

[Anonymous No.1586327]

>>1585953
vee blocks

[Anonymous No.1586461]

>>1586109
I tried enabling it with tolerance set to .001 and it didn't seem to change anything.

[Anonymous No.1586502]

Anyone used a fanuc or controller? I need a step by step on running a program from memory.

I am able to home all axes, change tool offsets but not get a fucking program to run.

[Anonymous No.1586503]

>>1586502
Fanuc ot, goddammit

[Anonymous No.1586533]

>>1586503
>>1586503
well i doubt this will help but

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQEMyEc72oM

[Anonymous No.1586534]

>>1586503
>>1586503
usually a controller has an option to "load" a program, then you hit cycle start

[Anonymous No.1586558]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bkrUzGooA9k

tapping! useful for that guy making his own tap I bet you.

[Anonymous No.1586603]

>>1586533
>>1586534
The program is in memory. I'm just trying to make it run

[Anonymous No.1586606]

>>1586603
if by "in memory" you mean stored on the controller, then figure out how to "load" it or otherwise "select" it, then hit cycle start.

[Anonymous No.1586652]

>>1586603
>>1586606
if I remember right you have to switch to memory mode, hit the program key, and then type the program number and push the down button to select it

[Anonymous No.1586653]

>>1586603
Why are you asking us instead of reading the manual for it?

Anon...http://www2.i-logic.com/manuals/fanuc_ot_cnc_program_manual_gcodetraining_588.pdf

[Anonymous No.1586657]

>>1586653
>>1586653
damn that's a nice programming manual, full color and everything.

[Anonymous No.1586658]

>>1586653
http://www.denfordata.com/bb/download/file.php?id=3633

should be the operator manual, section 6-2 is entitled "CNC FILES MENU - LOAD"

[Anonymous No.1586659]

>>1586658
>>1586658
It's for the DOS version of fanuc ot though. Don't know if he has that.

might still work

[Anonymous No.1586698]

grizzly mini mill retrofit

https://www.cnczone.com/forums/benchtop-machines/324194-cnc-55.html

[Anonymous No.1586702]

>>1586698
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-OEWOsX7OQ

[Anonymous No.1586797]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hK4gKBvBhcw

[Anonymous No.1586833]

>>1586653
>>1586657
>>1586658
>>1586659
Unfortunately the machine is pre-DOS. The entire manual that I do have has hand sketched pictures and instructions.

>>1586652
I'll try this later

[Anonymous No.1586835]

Anyone ever used chinkshit carbide inserts off aliexpress?

[Anonymous No.1586861]

What is the smallest VMC someone in the third world could use for making injection molds?

Buying an american/european machine is not a possibility

Pic related seems adequate, but there must be something even smaller

[Anonymous No.1586897]

>>1586835
Not off ali, but a certain ebay vender who sells chink inserts in ebay has worked very good for me on manual shit, comparable to 12 dollar iscar inserts, and they only run a few dollars a insert

[Anonymous No.1586902]

>>1586897
Link?

[Anonymous No.1587240]

>>1586861
gotta figure out how big the injection molds are.

[Anonymous No.1587250]

>>1586835
rolingmetal on youtube has, some of them suck, some are apparently alright.

would not use them expecting the insert tolerance to be legit, nor expect to get the kind of life out of them you would with a cnc lathe running the same program over and over.

For manual machine use and abuse they are probably good.

[Anonymous No.1587251]

btw emt, took some of the products I've been working on to a gun shop, their eyes practically turned into dollar signs when I told them I'm manufacturing them.

Anyone have experience with anodizing places?

[Anonymous No.1587292]

>>1586861
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lglz8Y8TESQ

well this guy is not doing injection molds but he is apparently making parts with his converted precision matthews.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6agOOO5QJU4

[Anonymous No.1587323]

>>1587251
>Anyone have experience with anodizing places?
They price per part and you need to tell them what exactly you want and get their certs for each batch of parts. At least we do anyway.

[Anonymous No.1587324]

>>1587323
How common is the anodizing place doing tumbling and other stuff too?

[Anonymous No.1587393]

>>1587324
Dunno, we don't need it

[Anonymous No.1587398]

I kind of want these, but I dont know what I would use them for
https://peoria.craigslist.org/tls/d/elmwood-cnc-mill-lathe-sherline-denford/6845006088.html

[Anonymous No.1587433]

>>1587398
making custom toothpicks?

[Anonymous No.1587530]

>>1587240
Small, about 75x75x65mm

[Anonymous No.1587726]

>>1587530
really? a 3" x 3" cube for an injection mold?

oh you surely mean centimeters. A 40" x 20" machine with around 25" of Z is a common size of industrial machine in the US.

750mm is about 30", so on the extremely damn large side for a lot of vertical machining centers.

[Anonymous No.1587779]

>>1586902
https://ebay.com/usr/4-68086

[Anonymous No.1588560]

new thread when

[Anonymous No.1588565]

>>1588560
I'm making one rn.

[Anonymous No.1588569]

>>1588560
>>1588566

>>1588566

>>1588566

>>1588566

migrate!

[Anonymous No.1588819]

>>1573498
>Niggers work for profit.