Truss rod

[Anonymous No.155846]

Sup, /diy/.

Any guitar techs out there?
I recently bought a used guitar and when i changed the strings to a heavier gauge (0.013-0.056), and tuned it to C standard tuning, some fret buzz at the first five frets appeared. I figured i should loosen up the truss rod, because the lowest string was touching the 12ht fret when i pushed it down at the first and 21st frets. So i loosened the truss rod about half of turn - full turn, and nothing. The strings didn't even go out of tune. So i thought the wood may need some time to bend so left the guitar for ~3 hours, and when i came back the neck was still in it's old position.
The guitar is a cheap Gibson sg copy.
http://www.sxguitarspain.com/sx_psg_gothic.htm
Here's the link. Translate that shit with google.

So what should i do? Maybe the nut is too trimmed? Any advice?

Pic related, it's the guitar. Sorry, don't have a camera atm.

[Anonymous No.155847]

The truss rod is only made to straighten the neck. If the neck is already straight and your getting buzz, probably raise the bridge and try to get your intonation right with the saddles.

[Anonymous No.155854]

>>155847
The neck of the guitar is supposed to have at least a minimal relief, and shouldn't be 100% straight.
And besides, i've already raised the bridge as high as possible, but the fret buzz on the lowest two stings, at the first five frets, didn't disappear.

[Anonymous No.155856]

That what you get for playing shitty metal music

[Anonymous No.155864]

>>155856
Any other opinions?

[Anonymous No.155876]

>>155846
>See guitar on pic
>not even bother reading on
get a real quality made guitar, i.e. yamaha/greco/orville etc
>post your questions
PROFIT!!!
>no one would bother with an sx

[Anonymous No.155877]

Same principal as with bass guitars. If the first 5 frets buzz then the neck is too straight. The truss rod needs to be slackened to allow more relief into the neck.

[Anonymous No.155879]

Get a new saddle or make your own to raise the strings. File the offending frets down a bit. Come on, even a child could figure this one out.

[Anonymous No.155880]

>>155876
Sorry, that i'm a poorfag.
>>155877
Did you even read the full post?

[Anonymous No.155887]

Some guitars ARE just too crap to be made good.

[Anonymous No.155891]

>>155880
Sorry, that I'm poorfag too and still got a better mid-range, althoubg used, guitar

[Anonymous No.155897]

>>155891

That's the way to go. I got a $1000 BC Rich Mockingbird for $400. The pickups and bridge were worth about 3/4 of the price there. You can always get a good deal on used guitars if you look hard enough.

[Anonymous No.155899]

drop tuning meaning less tension into the neck from the strings? keep slackening that truss rod, or buy a better guitar.

[Anonymous No.155901]

>>155887
Yeah, i guess, i'll have to come to this conclusion.

Anyways, i guess i can just trim the frets a bit, because changing the nut doesn't seem to be worth it and the guitar is a cheap one, so i don't mind experimenting with it.

[Anonymous No.155909]

>>155897
Kudos bro. I too love golden-era bc rich'es. I'm eyeing for nj series stealth(aka Rick Derringer signature).

[Anonymous No.156391]

I suggest you buy yourself a new guitar.

[WillyTheDisk !!W4ldCS0N1db No.156639]

Ha, I'm a professional guitar tech, and yesterday, I restrung and set up an ESP LP. When I called the customer to tell him it was ready to pick up, he said, as an afterthought, "Oh btw Anon, I usually tune it to a drop D, down a full step. Hope that doesn't change anything." Mfw.
OP, if you loosen the truss rod, and still don't get any relief, it's because you're strings aren't providing enough tension to pull the neck forwards. I find this problem a lot when people string their Les Paul knock offs up with 8s, but with 13s, you should be seeing some relief I'd imagine. What's your action set at?
Also, what's the scale length on that guitar? A longer scale length would be better suited to a drop tuning like that.

[Anonymous No.156735]

>>156639
Well, i figured i should apply more tension to the neck with the strings, so i tuned them to D standard, but still no relief.
To tell the truth, I've set up the action by eye, as low as possible without creating more fret buzz, so i can't tell any exact numbers.
And about the scale, i have no idea. Everything i know about that guitar is in the official website, and its not much.
I've already set up the intonation and the action, as best as i could, and now the fret buzz only appears, when i strum hard. Good way to learn smaller, more accurate movements with the picking hand.

[Anonymous No.158286]

check intonation.

do u know how to make a harmonic?

[Anonymous No.159011]

Not a tech, but I wonder how much I can get for my (barely) used Ibanez ICX220 (Iceman model). Had it for about 9 years. I got it new.

[TehLuthier !!1CDyJZ5Snbd No.159023]

SX makes fine beginner guitars.

>>156391

shut up.

The SG is 24.75 which is standard Gibson scale, There's some inbetweens (PRS) at 25, and Fender at 25.5. Those are the most common scales.

56-13 should be more than enough to pull some relief in that neck, even in C. I play 68-14 in B, and they're nice and tight.

The shorter scale length kind of puts you at a disadvantage, since there's going to be less tension overall, in this situation. That being said, SG's are one of the most often down tuned guitars. So many people use them for doom/sludge/stoner rock. I use a Guild S100 in C standard, no buzz...

Everything is a balance. You don't just adjust one thing to make a perfect player. Neck/bridge/nut etc all has to be within a happy median in order to get a good player. If the nut is too low, and the neck is too straight, shim the nut. Use something super thin, business card, piece of a soda bottle cut to fit. There's always a chance the frets aren't level. If that's the case, there's many tutorials on how to do it. I've done it a bunch, it's no biggie. Just a little scary at first.

This tele is in B standard.

[Anonymous No.159027]

>>156735
Sleep, fuck yea I love stoner metal