/SQTDDTOT/

[Anonymous No.1553839]

Welcome to /SQTDDTOT/, where there are no stupid questions, only stupid anons. At least try to google it. Old thread >>1545158

My old drill had this slot ( see photos ) where I could put drill bits. My new one doesn't have one. Is there some sort of attachment I could glue to the handle to provide same functionality? All I'm finding is stupid shit the attached photo holster.

[Anonymous No.1553894]

>>1553839
That’s stupid, and epoxy a hard drive magnet

[Anonymous No.1553952]

>>1553894
I really prefer something that snaps in place rather than a magnet.

[Anonymous No.1553955]

>>1553839
what about something like this?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-5-Hex-Bit-Holder-for-Makita-Cordless-Drills-amp-Impact-Drivers-DHP458-BHP451-/262970333843?redirect=mobile&nma=true&si=WMoU%252FO%252Flxws%252BCeLJoXuTRnBbm6k%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

[Anonymous No.1553972]

how would i instal anchor hooks into the sheet metal on the side of my truck? i wanna haul like 50-100lbs of scrapwood over the fiberglass topper on the roof of my truck. not at highway speeds. 45mph max
im gonna put a foam futon mattress ontop of the camper to distribute the weight

[Milwaukee !ShlRJ3wGuk No.1553974]

>>1553972
holy fuck man i thought i was a redneck

>not at highway speeds

suuuure

to answer your question, double up ratchet straps and just go around your whole truck

or hook into your frame

there are better options than speed holing your truck

also post either make and model or pic and we can help more

[Anonymous No.1553997]

>>1553955
that is pretty fucking awesome, thanks. yes. that is the type of thing. thanks!

[Anonymous No.1553998]

is this real, does this shit work.

[Anonymous No.1554002]

>>1553998
Smaller equivalent works on my Dremel, but I've never seen a "full size" one like this

[Anonymous No.1554056]

Anybody remeber the dude that made an orange grip for his revolver to look like its from bladerunner? It got quite the attention and i would like some pictures of the gun and the gun model

[Knipex. For Life. No.1554068]

>>1553998
As long as you don’t put any real torque through it, sure. Try and use it on an impact driver and it will be fucked in a couple seconds.

>>1553839
Why would I take the time to Google something if I’m already on /diy/?

[Anonymous No.1554191]

Dishwasher installation question. The water supply line is a copper tube that is soldered on. Do I need to replace the shut off valve or is there something I can do with copper tubing that is less expensive (cut it)?

[Anonymous No.1554193]

>>1554191
>copper tube that is soldered on
Soldered on to what?
A picture is worth 1000 words.

[Anonymous No.1554194]

>>1553952
Sugru.

[Anonymous No.1554214]

>>1554193
Here's the pic

[Anonymous No.1554217]

>>1554193
Okay got smaller pic here.

[Anonymous No.1554251]

>>1554217
Why can't you reuse the copper line that is currently going to the dishwasher you're replacing?
Most dishwashers use a 3/8" pipe inlet, some use a 3/4" hose connector.
Both adapt to a 3/8" tube compression fitting.
The far end of the copper tube should have a compression nut and ring on it.

[Anonymous No.1554266]

>>1554191
>copper tube that is soldered on

Even at the valve?

[Anonymous No.1554270]

>>1554266
>even at the valve
Yes
The ? part looks like a bodged solder job just to reduce 1/2 to 3/8.

[Anonymous No.1554282]

>>1554270
cut the 1/2" line coming out of the valve close to the ell
attach pic related
>1/2" to 3/8" compression union
it is a compression fitting for the 1/2" line you cut and a compression on the small end for the 3/8" tube
replace the copper tube with a stainless 3/8" to 3/8" dishwasher hose
SS hose is available in 4', 5', and 6' lengths

[Anonymous No.1554307]

My concrete driveway is dusty.
What can I do on cheap to prevent dust? Can I pour pure cement (no sand or anything) on top of it?

[Anonymous No.1554308]

>>1553839
Why my instant gas water heater only starts heating after firm punch?
If I don't punch it, spark won't occur, thus it won't ignite gas, and it will turn off.

[Anonymous No.1554319]

>>1554270
>part looks like a bodged solder job just to reduce 1/2 to 3/8.

If you're saying they soldered a 1/2 pipe to a 3/8 without an adapter and it didn't leak like hell you are insane.

[Anonymous No.1554323]

>>1554319
Good thing that's not what I'm saying.

[Anonymous No.1554364]

Is antimony toxic?
Why tin-silver-copper solders aren't used in plumbing?
Why the fuck we solder pipes, when flare connection exists.

Also, I'm planning to use 45° SAE air condition fittings on water. Is it wrong?

[Anonymous No.1554413]

do i need to re caulk the plate that goes behind the shower handle lever after change out the shower cartridge?

[Anonymous No.1554419]

Anyone ever raised meat rabbits before? How much room do you need to give a litter of ~8 rabbits after they've weaned, until they are ready to slaughter?

[Anonymous No.1554421]

>>1554413
>caulk the plate
doesn't it have a foam gasket?

[Anonymous No.1554429]

>>1554421
i saw something like that but i forgot and i think it got ripped anyways. im talking about the part where the plate touches the shower wall directly

[Anonymous No.1554440]

>>1554429
>im talking about the part where the plate touches the shower wall directly
Yes, there should be a foam ring around the plate on the back side.
That's the gasket.
If you don't have the gasket, use caulk or silicone but don't use much.
Just a small bead. You want to be able to get it back off when necessary.
Even without a gasket or caulk not a lot of water can get behind it.
The spray is directed toward you and only splashes back at the front of the plate.
There's not that much going to get behind it.

[Anonymous No.1554480]

>>1554440
oh well since not a lot is going back there ill just get a tube of caulk when i pick up the fucking handle i broke when i took it apart and seal it then

[Anonymous No.1554497]

>>1554282
Thanks for the help.

[Anonymous No.1554509]

>>1554497
NP
I don't know how familiar you are with compression fittings so I'll offer some advice.
Clean the pipe thoroughly with emery paper or steel wool before cutting it.
If you have a tubing cutter, use it for a clean, smooth cut instead of a hacksaw.
Wipe the area clean again before placing the nut and ring on the pipe.
Keep the adapter pushed onto the pipe while tightening so the pipe is bottomed out in the adapter.
It's a compression fitting so you shouldn't need teflon tape or pipe dope.
I sometimes add a tiny bit of dope or plumbing grease to the inside of the nut to make the tightening and compression of the ring go smoother.
Good luck and I hope there are no leaks when you reopen the valve.

[Anonymous No.1554523]

I have a couch that I really like. It's huge and has some side shelves. The cushions are really uncomfortable: the springs are stiff and poke your back; the stuffing is fluffed out.

Is there any /diy/ way to salvage this?

[Milwaukee !ShlRJ3wGuk No.1554608]

>>1554523

go to store

get foam

get fabric

get your best friend

grab a hot cup of industrial strength goat urine

make new cushions

jerklecirc with your boy on kampfy cheir

[Anonymous No.1554778]

what the hell is this crap and how do I mount my blinds to it

[Anonymous No.1554787]

>>1554480
>looses gasket
>breaks new parts
Maybe you should let someone else do this.

[Anonymous No.1554788]

>>1554497
Do what >>1554509 says, but get pic related to cut the pipe. They're fucking awesome and a lot easier than hacksawing it and then filing sharp bits off.

[Anonymous No.1554790]

>>1554778
That looks like a concrete lintel. Save yourself a lot of shit and screw brackets to the walls instead.

[Anonymous No.1554798]

I found this (see pic) and i'm wondering if anyone knows of a cheap version of it, maybe a chinese knock off or something.

would love to have one, but not at 40$ for a xacto holder.

[Anonymous No.1554800]

>>1554798
>he wants a sprung loaded razor sharp steel blade enclosed in a Chinesium handle
holy fucking keke

[Anonymous No.1554817]

>>1554800
>sprung loaded
I think the spring is a retraction spring.
The end of it away from the blade is looped around a post.
This wouldn't be necessary if it was to push instead of pull

[Anonymous No.1554825]

>>1554817
Good point, well spotted. I apologise to Anon, but not those Chinese that usually make a load of wank.

[Anonymous No.1554835]

>>1554825
for the most part if you temper expectations, chinese things are about as quality as you can get without being judged in price.

I think this thing, whcih is the size of an x-acto blade is 60$ when not on a sale/promo. im sorry but I will take a pot metal cast version that's cleaned up a bit for 10$ over 60$ any day when the main function is just going to be a small 'I need a knife and any knife will doo' tool. I got around 45 of these x-acto blades due to a hobby falling though and would like to put them to some use, the things are sharp as hell, but honestly needing to have them in a pen holder makes for something that isn't the go do for cutting.

[Anonymous No.1554838]

>>1554817
How does the button lock it then

[Anonymous No.1554842]

>>1554838
>button lock
I don't see the word 'lock' anywhere on the drawing.
Want to cut something?
Push the blade out with your thumb on the button.
When finished, release button to retract blade.
It's not for whittling.
Best it can do is cut the tape on a package then go back into your pocket.

If it's a push spring, why isn't it pushing the slider to the left in the pic.
There is nothing holding the slider all the way to the right. (except that spring)

[Anonymous No.1554848]

>>1554842
Seems kinda silly then. I some of those types of blades for cutting leather, wouldn't want to have to hold the blade extended manually whilst doing so.

[Anonymous No.1554869]

>>1554848
>some of those types of blades for cutting leather, wouldn't want to have to hold the blade extended manually whilst doing so.
That's not what it's designed for, would you use a butter knife to eat steak?

[Anonymous No.1554870]

>>1554869
If it's tender enough sure

[Anonymous No.1554874]

>>1554870
Peasant.

[Anonymous No.1554918]

What are the things called that snap onto the inside of a window and makes the window look like it has 6 or so smaller panes? You take them off to clean the window.

[Anonymous No.1554925]

>>1554918

muntins, or in your case, fake or artificial muntins.

[Anonymous No.1555013]

>>1554918

If it's a part of the actual construction of the window and separates individual panes, it's called a mullion.

[Anonymous No.1555014]

>>1555013
>mullion.

[Anonymous No.1555070]

Does STM32F103C8T6 capable enough for SLAM(Simultaneous localization and mapping)?

[Anonymous No.1555167]

Is GE silicone 2+ door/window sealant neutral curing? I found one site that said it was but nothing from the manufacturer. I used some to seal my taillights and want to make sure it won't cause corrosion and eventually rust.

[Anonymous No.1555540]

Where can I buy gears relatively cheap? Amazon's search is fucked for sizing and prices are all over the place.

I need a handful of steel spur gears (all the same size, 2" pitch diameter) for a project but I don't know where to buy them from. They're not going to have any serious torque on them. I'd prefer gears in imperial units since the pitch diameter is the only dimension that really matters for the project.

[B.P.P. No.1555580]

>>1555540
Have you tried Granger or Fastenal or one of those places? McMaster-Carr is another. Otherwise eBay or Ali. Amazon is goofy for real niche stuff like that.

[Anonymous No.1555834]

>>1553839
So I have a retarded question which is why it fits into this thread:
I need a material that is "relatively" easy to obtain (as in available on the free market) somewhat reasonably priced and can be used to form a capsule that has the following properties:

Foodsafe
can withstand around 180 °C (~360°F)
can withstand up to ~135 psi (internal pressure)
I am well aware that the pressure it can withstand needs to be part of the design, but I have no idea of material science.

[Anonymous No.1555836]

>>1555834
forgot to add: the capsule should be around table tennis ball size or a bit smaller.

[Anonymous No.1555861]

hello, if I have a relay that can handle 220V AC, is it safe to assume it can handle 12V DC 80mA max ? ( I have no informations for max Ampere on the datasheet )

[Anonymous No.1555862]

>>1555861
Nevermind, it can handle 30v DC max at 10A

[Anonymous No.1555863]

>>1555861
Yes, the power draw 12*80*10^-3=0.96VA which the 220V AC rating should be able to handle easily.

[Anonymous No.1555865]

>>1555862
oh, well ignore >>1555863 then.

[Anonymous No.1555867]

>>1555865
Thank you for the answer though

[Anonymous No.1555917]

>>1553998
I have used them with impact drills for reaching all kinds of crazy angles inside appliances and under cabinets. Never had a problem with too much torque.

[Anonymous No.1555933]

Which basic tools do I need to make wooden windows?

I already have a circular table saw, old wood and glass

any tips?

[Anonymous No.1556017]

>>1555933
Follow up question; when making wooden windows how thin do you have to make the wood before it allows the required amount of light through?

[Anonymous No.1556063]

I'm trying to repair a bluetooth speaker that I dropped like a retard and one of the components on the circuit board came off. I want to solder it back on but I'm still new to soldering. How can I get this back on?
I'd like to open up the plastic shell or pull the circuit board out but the plastic is one piece and the circuit board is held in by copious amounts of silicone(??) stuff and hot glue it seems like.

[Anonymous No.1556064]

What's the name of this screw?

[B.P. de Bellisle No.1556068]

>>1556064
Cam lock screw?

>>1556063
Good luck. Soldering shit like that isn’t the same as soldering a record player from 1950.

[Anonymous No.1556072]

>>1556068
>Cam lock screw?
That's the one, thanks anon

[Anonymous No.1556081]

>>1556063
>>1556063

[Anonymous No.1556137]

I got a couple logs treated with copper arseholenate. I want to chop them up into little piers/stumps to support a platform.

I plan on counterboring the piers, then putting a sleeved anchor through the centre and into some concrete.

>Which way is strongest:
Would it be okay to simply slice them up along the log, then put the bolts through the centre, through the inner rings?

Or is it stronger to put them through the sides? In which case I'd need to square the logs up, or at least two sides.

As you can probably tell, I am no timbersmith, so use small words please!~

[Anonymous No.1556167]

>>1554835
you can cast pot metal yourself you know. do a lost wax casting if its a one-off.

>>1555834
obtain stainless steel or aluminum from thrift store cookware, but you'll need a press or something to form a piece that small. Pans are usually ~1/8" (3mm) thick which is overkill for that size, but will stretch from drawing out. those specs are really light duty, a shitty bike pump can handle more than that internal pressure.

>>1556137
they will continue to crack like in the pic over time if you leave the heart (center circles) in. cutting treated lumber is EXTREMELY hazardous, you should not by DIY'ing treated lumber without researching the hazards and consulting a local building material supplier to see if there's any special precautions or disposal methods you're supposed to use for the dust/chips/offcuts according to your local laws.

[Anonymous No.1556172]

>>1556167
>cutting treated lumber is EXTREMELY hazardous, you should not by DIY'ing treated lumber without researching the hazards
Well... Good thing you told me, then I bothered to look it up [I SUPPOSE].
I've already got some building materials being delivered on Wednesday, hopefully adding some hardwood to that won't be too expensive (famous last words), because I'm basically down to my last few hundred dollars for the next month.
Thanks [I GUESS].

[Anonymous No.1556178]

how are Makita drills

I just came back from a yard sale and bought a Makita 9222d for $4

good find or is it shit

[Anonymous No.1556187]

>>1556178
They are good drills. One that old is gonna have outdated battery tech and everyone is on the impact drill bandwagon these days but $4 ain't bad. I see them in Goodwill for about that price.

[Anonymous No.1556210]

>>1556187
>impact drill bandwagon
What is an impact drill and why should I get one? the Makita was basically my first drill

they also had a Ryobi cid1802p. should I try and go back and see if they still have it?

[Anonymous No.1556223]

why are ddr4 and ddr3 not compatible
i know the pin count is different why?
what prevents me from soldering old ddr3 together and hookingg it up to the motherboard instead of buying 8gigs for 80euroburgers

[Milwaukee !ShlRJ3wGuk No.1556232]

>>1556223

ddr4 runs at lower voltage, i imagine the pinouts are completely different as well.

ddr4 can have higher clocks, more bandwidth, and better stability

nothing really current can make full use of ddr4 yet so its kind of meme right now

[Anonymous No.1556238]

>>1556232
my mobo can supply the higher voltage, the pinouts can be rewired, i just need moar ram
why did they have to make them incompatible, the performance is pretty much identical

i'm just asking if it's been done before or something, dont really want to fry my mobo or something

[Anonymous No.1556240]

>>1555917
huh good to know.

<--- I have two shop lights in garage. Replace ballast in one - still doesn't work. I figure there is a break in the wire somewhere, so now I'll go back and buy 3 of these fucking things. Probably have been cheaper to just buy a whole new unit...

which got me thinking - should I just be installing LEDs? I have to replace the other one still. And one look at the selection of different shop lights has me overwhelmed. Could use some direction. LEDs are nice, but will they save me money over flourescent? is it like $70 worth of savings ( price between the two unites )

[Milwaukee !ShlRJ3wGuk No.1556243]

>>1556238

it hasnt and will not ever be done

try increasing the size of your page file

[DIY safe cracking No.1556335]

>tldr; does the key hole under the dial locks the dial or is it an additional security after you dial the combination?

hello, is there anyone here who knows about safes? i have got pic related and I've been trying to find the combination. but the keyhole underneath it is bothering me. after searching google for safes with dials and keys, i found that the key is used, in most cases, to lock the dial. but I'm worried that could be something else: if it is used to lock the dial, then i don't have to worry about it, because it would already be unlocked. but if its not, i would have to try to lock pick it each time i try a combination and i wouldn't know if lockpicked it wrong or is the wrong combination

ps. if anyone have the model that would also be great, the only thing that could indicate the manufacturer is a torn and burned piece of paper in the back

[Anonymous No.1556367]

>>1556210
Impact drills are just an attempt at a "universal" power tool that spins straight-driven bits but the impact function is usually anemic.

It's supposed to combine:
Drill
Driver (forward/reverse, slower speed and will 'click' like a torque wrench to keep you from slipping off the bit when it hangs)
Impact Driver (same as driver but also applies instant force with a small automatic hammer to torque screws/nuts/bolts down, IE when driving deck screws flush without drilling/countersinking, or to unstick them when they're rusted, loctite'd or otherwise seized)
Hammer drill (applies hammering force to a masonry bit to go through concrete/stone)

The thing is that for a REAL impact driver you want a lighter, smaller tool, for an impact wrench you need a lot more force if you want to remove anything you wouldn't be able to with a long wrench, and for a hammer drill you need one with an SDS chuck and again, more force.

That is why it is a meme, it costs more than a normal drill/driver for minimal benefit - the real use is if you're a general on-site guy or installer and can't bring more than 1 cordless tool with you in the case of unexpected concrete.

[Anonymous No.1556404]

>>1556367
poorly written with contradictory information. 2 thumbs down also BORING.

[Anonymous No.1556409]

>>1556137
>arseholenate
There's no way this is a real chemical?

[Anonymous No.1556413]

Is there some technique to splitting wine barrels to not fuck them up? I have three and I was thinking I would just sawzall them down the middle, but am I supposed to do something first to prevent them from falling apart?

[Anonymous No.1556425]

>>1556413
glue it and wait a 2-3 days, should be enought to not have it's tension being liberated while sawing them off, which would leave splinters when you're finishing. if you're gonna fill with something edible make sure the glue doesn't have lead

[Anonymous No.1556439]

>>1556404
The hammer/impact portion of such a drill does not provide a sufficient amount of power for the additional weight and bulk on the tool. It is "capable of" but not really proper for jobs where you would need the extra features. You should use a proper SDS hammer drill, impact driver, or impact wrench for those tasks.

The additional features add weight and bulk to the drill without more power in normal drilling, which sucks if you have to drill a lot of holes.

A dedicated impact driver is lighter and thus is less tiring to use for driving/removing a shitload of screws.

The other two have FAR more power, the impact/hammer features of a non-dedicated drill with a hammer mode are anemic.

The use of such a cordless drill is when you CANNOT or have a risk of leaving the proper tool behind. If you go to install cabinets or cable in a client's house then keeping masonry bits in your standard kit makes the surprise of finding concrete less of a headache, and you aren't drilling that many holes so the extra fatigue from use is not a problem. A normie homeowner who barely does any DIY will be ok with minimal investment in a single tool to lose in the garage instead of several.

[Anonymous No.1556536]

>>1554419
my dad used to raise velveteen rabbits and slaughter them in the backyard of our suburban home. he used rabbit hutches he built himself. couldn't be bigger than 5'x5' he had two, kept all the adult rabbits in one and the mother and babies in the other.

[Anonymous No.1556588]

>>1556210
>Ryobi cid1802p
The main draw for this is the new lithium batteries will work in this drill.
You'd need a lithium charger though.
The cost of a new charger and battery wouldn't justify buying the older drill.
However, if you got the drill and later bought about any 18V Ryobi product new (other than a tool only sale) you'd get a charger and battery with it.
You'd then have the new tool you bought plus a nice, older, Ryobi hammer drill.

[Anonymous No.1556591]

>>1556167
have considered it in the past, but if I was to do anything right now, it would most likely be a wooden handle, some embedded screws,a piece of aluminum with brass pins to keep the blade straight with aluminum over it and it would be more of a fixed blade than anything else.

would like to exhaust my options before I do that though.

[Anonymous No.1556613]

>>1556591
Bend a small piece of steel or aluminum into a rail with a t or c shaped cross-section

Cut a slot on the flat side of the rail and through the main body, with a recess to seat the rail and spring

put a washer inside the rail, use a jump ring to hook it onto the spring which is held in with a bolt at the rear

bolt goes through the body, rail, washer, and blade with thumbscrew cap on the opposite side

another bolt keeps the body from opening

[Anonymous No.1556617]

>>1556613
in case its not clear the bolt and thumbscrew cap go on the outside, i just didn't plan to outline the body as well at first

[Anonymous No.1556637]

>>1556167
>those specs are really light duty, a shitty bike pump can handle more than that internal pressure.
Thanks for the answer, will check the thrift stores soon

[Anonymous No.1556689]

I have been working on restorating a Honda XL 125 R (pic related) for some time and lately I've been thinking that I should keep track of all my knowledge and progress. I already did some work on the motorcycle but not that much because of school and winter. But there's still a lot of work to be done. First I was thinking of a word document, but then I thought a youtube channel would be better because it could help a lot more people than myself. What do you guys think about this?

[Anonymous No.1556713]

>>1556689
Just do it faggit

[Beppu No.1556731]

>>1556689
Where are you on the ‘tism scale? If the answer is anything other than “Slightly”, I wouldn’t bother making a video as it will make everything take 4x as long and nobody will watch it anyway.

[Anonymous No.1556759]

>>1556367
>That is why it is a meme
fuck that, they are a game changer not having to drill pilot holes for everything.

[Anonymous No.1556782]

What is a good electric pressure washer to buy?

[Anonymous No.1556800]

>>1556782

none of them.

[Anonymous No.1556868]

>>1553972
bungee cords, clothes line, and duct tape. You can do it, anon. I'll even hold your beer for ya!

[Anonymous No.1556872]

>>1554523
google upholstery. It's gonna be more involved that the attention span of this board can handle.
It's doable, I've done it before. pro-tip. Carefully remove the old upholstery at the seams, save it for use as patterns. Otherwise you gonna work a LOT harder.

[Anonymous No.1556882]

How hard would it be to put casters on a La-Z-Boy?

[Anonymous No.1556916]

If i use a powerful fan to blow smoke out of my room and make it smell clean is it bad for the furnace? Like does it overwork it or something that would cause problems?

[Anonymous No.1556918]

>>1556759
That's why you use an impact driver you retard, not a drill.

Impact driver vs impact drill/driver. If you're just driving screws and not drilling you don't need to be using a drill at that task.

[Anonymous No.1557002]

>>1556918
Ah, I thought you were calling impact drivers meme tier. please except my humble apoligies. I will try to be more quiet fucking your mom tonight so you can get good sleep.

[Anonymous No.1557007]

>>1553839
Where do you get these for cheap? Alternatively, what other method can I use to join nb20 pipes together? I'm building an aviary but I'm really poor so I'll be using 1m nb20 pipes off gumtree.

[Anonymous No.1557017]

>>1556409
Arseholenate => arsenate (ie. a salt of arsenic acid)

>it was an attempt at humour... ;_;

>>1556137
>>1556167
>>1556172
Okay, so on account of me not wanting to kill myself, onto my next possible solution: Bricks!

I've got a pile of old bricks, currently being diligently protected by blackberry bushes and weeds. From what I remember last time I saw them, they were in fairly good condition though. So I figure do the piers out of bricks, like four bricks in a circle. I'm even less of a bricksmith than I am a timbersmith though.

What would be the best way to fix the beams to the brick pier?

I was thinking of some threaded rod that'll stick out the top of the brick, that'll go through the beams laying on top?

Otherwise maybe bolts that go through the beam and into the brick?

If the first idea, should I cement it in place? The second idea, I'm not sure about, because it would be going through the centre, which would be between the edges of the bricks, would that hold alright?

>pic related, floofy kitty who will no doubt lend me her wise construction expertise

[Anonymous No.1557110]

>>1556916
Smoke outside, degenerate.

[Anonymous No.1557155]

>>1556240
Yes. Invest in LEDs. They use much less juice, particularly if the switch gets flipped a lot. The ballasts burn energy like mad when they're attempting to start the tubes.

[Anonymous No.1557161]

>>1556335
Every safe I've interacted with that had both a dial and a key, the key opened the safe by itself and was also used to apply a new combination to the dial.

[Anonymous No.1557196]

>>1557155
>The ballasts burn energy like mad when they're attempting to start the tubes.
Requesting a source for this.
I tried looking for data on this awhile ago but I can't find any, never seen actual measurements. Anything I have seen says this is a misconception; that the inrust current is so brief that the wasted energy is equivalent to having your lights on for a few seconds. Negligible in other words.
What say you?
Keep in mind I'm not the fluorescent internet defence force, I still use and prefer LED strips for work lighting.

[Anonymous No.1557198]

>>1557196
*inrush

[Anonymous No.1557199]

Looking for a good quality oil based stain for pressure treated pine. Everything I see from my weak google-fu is just clickbait. I'd like to have some honest recommendations.

I live in Southeast VA; winter, fall and spring have BPD and the summers are hot as fuck and humid. I live in a wetlands region (my property backs down into a marshy area), so something that's extra resistant to mold would be best.

I'd like something that's a bit on the dark side that I can use a roller and brush on. The fence perimeter is ~300 feet around, idk how much stain I'll need for that length either.

[Beppu No.1557237]

>>1557196
I hear it on those PSA electrical savings commercials. There has been one on the radio lately from the power company telling people to switch out their incandescent bulbs and use “the 15 minute rule” where you should leave the lights on if you’re going to be out of the room for <15min and turn them off if it will be longer than that for both power savings and the longevity of the bulbs.

[Anonymous No.1557252]

I got the ryobi brushless set for Christmas. I also got the 6 pack charger. Question....since the charger claims to be a maintainer, can I just leave the batteries on it? I may not need to use them for a month or 2, depending on what needs fixed. I'm confused because Ryobi says not to. Assuming I do, and they sit for an extended period of time without being used, what's the worst that can happen?

[Beppu No.1557259]

>>1557252
Nah, for Li-Ion, take the batteries off when they’re charged. Leaving them on was better with older NiCd and NiMH batteries, but Li-Ion doesn’t self discharge like that. It would probably take months for the charge to drop enough for the charger to even click on again and charge the Li-Ions back to 100%.

Real pro tip is to only charge the batteries to ~80% before storing them for an extended period of time, but I don’t think that makes a huge difference, maybe a few more charge cycles added onto the overall life of the battery.

[Anonymous No.1557261]

>>1557252

I would just leave them off the charger. They don't really discharge quickly.

[Anonymous No.1557361]

>>1557110
Thanks a lot dipshit. Anyone who knows what they're talking about want to chime in?

[Anonymous No.1557380]

I'm looking for a cordless screwdriver for my old man.
I'm looking for something that is similar to the Bosch go but with a trigger and not pressure triggered.
I've seen the "Black & Decker BDCS40BI" witch you can twist the handle so it looks like a regular screwdriver but as far as I learned B&D is not really that reliable.
Do you have any suggestions?

[Anonymous No.1557402]

>>1556178
>how are Makita drills
Pretty good
>I just came back from a yard sale and bought a Makita 9222d for $4
Older Makitas have flaw with gear shifter, so it is a good idea to shift without load, while applying force to shifter.
Other that that, they're good.
>>1557380
Keep in mind, that electric screwdrivers are very niche thing. Common cordless drill is much more versatile.
Don't get me wrong, I want this Bosch thing really badly, but I wait for it to be on sale. I think it would be useful for disassembling electronics and stuff.
Technically, pushing is better than twisting, since it won't strip the fastener, but I don't know for sure, since I never had a screwdriver like that.


Stupid question: why fridges and cars aircons use R12 (or R134a, or R600a or whatever R1234yf), and air conditioners use R22 (R410a, R32, etc.)?

[Anonymous No.1557460]

Can traditional woodworking by hand be done in a sad apartment without making a lot of noise? With chisels and planes and maybe something like a rubber mallet to dampen the noise

[Anonymous No.1557461]

>>1557155
Well the price difference is $150 for 2 LEDS or 20 for two FL units. My experience with LEDs have been there are many faulty units, and they only last a few years ( 3ish? ) under heavy use. IT seems I'll save like $3 per year maybe? I Don't buy that 10-25 year shit at all.

>>1557237
is this for what kind of bulbs?

[Anonymous No.1557463]

>>1557402
Refrigerant systems use whatever gas they want. So they do.
Making appliances that use R12 (Freon) is illegal, but a lot of people have them, so they still sell the gas.
So newer appliances use other gases.
Cranky HVAC expert is probably gonna roll in and tell you all the autistic details

[Anonymous No.1557474]

>>1557463
>Refrigerant systems use whatever gas they want. So they do.
Indeed. But why they use some refrigerants instead of others?
You will never find a fridge with R-410A, or air conditioner with R-600A...
>tell you all the autistic details
I hope so

[Anonymous No.1557496]

I want to get into model making. Specifically the oldish type where they use styrene and kitbashing. What specifically do I need to get started?

I assumed it would be all situated in the same place at my hobby shop and be easy but they weren't they only had the plastic without the cement stuff or anything else near it.

[Anonymous No.1557512]

>>1557461
>$150 for 2 LEDS
What the fuck kind of LEDs are we talking about here?! I got some normal bayonet socket LEDs the other week, and they were only like AU$10 for a three pack (pic related). I assume you're talking more like warehouse strength lights, but surely the price difference isn't that much?

[Anonymous No.1557525]

>>1557496
I'm not sure, but I know custom model making is popular with the Warhammer crowd. Maybe look up some of their websites and see what they use, and where they get it. That shit's expensive as fuck, but the community also produces some decent guides to making, painting, and customising shit.

[Anonymous No.1557564]

>be me
>move to shithole, where poisonous spiders exist
>don't know how do they look like

What do? How do I get rid all of spiders at home?

[Beppu No.1557571]

>>1557461
I assumed it was CFL bulbs they’re talking abt since it was geared towards homeowners.

And that seems kinda high, $150. I have been seeing 48” LED light strips all over, like $20-$40 for a single row to replace one flourescent tube, or $40-$60 for a double fixture. I keep thinking about grabbing one or two of the $20-$30 strips to try them out over these flourescent tubes.

>>1557564
One of those big propane garden torch things they use to burn weeds.

[Anonymous No.1557573]

>>1557571
>One of those big propane garden torch things they use to burn weeds.
But seriously?

[Anonymous No.1557583]

New homeowner here. I have a freestanding gas fireplace in my living room that I want to get rid of. As someone with no experience with gas or plumbing is this something I can safely do myself or should I pay someone to do it? I'm worried about creating a gas leak.

[Anonymous No.1557587]

>>1557583
Get the company that delivers gas to remove your tank. Then you can pull the fireplace out. Personally I'd leave the pipes in place but you could also remove those.

[Anonymous No.1557596]

>>1557587
I don't think I understand. Could you elaborate on what tank you're referring to? I have a gas water heater and I'm assuming the fireplace and water heater are both getting gas from the same place.

[Beppu No.1557599]

>>1557573
Spray some of the barrier shit every few weeks. Good luck.

[Anonymous No.1557603]

>>1557583
I'm not sure why he said tank. Maybe he meant shut off your gas supply. In some states (CA) you're no longer allowed to turn on or off your gas service unless it's an emergency, but they provide the service for free, i'ts just annoying to setup an appointment.

When i had the gas company over ot turn my service back on they capped an outlet i wasn't using anymore for no cost.

[Anonymous No.1557611]

>>1557564
Don't worry about it, just don't stick your hand anywhere you haven't looked. The chances of you getting bit are small enough, let alone by something deadly.

[Anonymous No.1557617]

>>1557564
>don't know how do they look like
realistically you could go to the local library and ask about local poisonous wildlife
or the park rangers... department of agriculture... list goes on.

[Anonymous No.1557640]

>>1557596
>>1557603
He's assuming you have LPG/propane gas cylinders, not a mains natural gas connection.

[Anonymous No.1557649]

>>1557603
>no longer allowed to shut off your [x] supply
that's how it is for everyone
you can shut it down yourself if you want, but it's not your property and if you break it then you're responsible for it

[Anonymous No.1557704]

>>1556782
what are electric washers good for? I bought one a while ago but don't find it any more useful than just adding one of these on the end of my hose

[Anonymous No.1557728]

I'm planning on repairing a bathtub that has cracked, planning on using some small fiberglass sheets cut to size and some waterproof epoxy. Is this a good idea? Is there a type of epoxy that you would suggest for a bathtub? any suggestions on dyeing to get the color close?

[Anonymous No.1557738]

>>1557704
I own a car rental lot. I find these things are great when you are washing cars every couple of days and don't need all the power and don't want to listen to a gas motor 24/7.

I have had luck getting moss off of decks and sidewalks, but the angle has to be just right.

[Anonymous No.1557755]

Any washing machine repairmen here?
My washing machine won't enter the spin cycle to dry my laundry, as a result the laundry ends up as a soggy mess.
I've googled around and some seem to point out to the preostat (pressure relay). I've checked it and the membrane seems okay, no air leaks, and I filled the drum with water and heard it click when filling it and when removing all the water, so I guess the tube has no air leaks either.
It has 4 leads, I tested it with a multimeter, and with no pressure it's a short between two of them, and with pressure (after the click sound) it's an open circuit. The other two leads are on open circuit, even after the preostat clicks, I have to blow a bit harder to close the circuit.
Does this means the preostat is at fault?
The pump seems to work fine, I drained all the water from the drum manually using a little hose at the bottom of the washing machine, and even with no water at all it refused to enter the spin cycle.
Is there anything else to blame here?
Thanks guys

[Anonymous No.1557773]

stupid question coming though. i want to loosen an axle nut on a bmw e30. problem is the axle is already in a different location than the car so ich have the problem that i have to secure the cv axle in order to loosen the very tight axle nut. bench vise etc didnt work. would a impact wrench help me? looking at the dcf899

[Anonymous No.1557775]

Somewhat /diy/ related question but not really.
I'm looking to get into video production which at some point will involve processing voice over soundbites.
I asked on /p/ but the board seems very slow, the video thread at least.

I'm sure there are electricalfriends here that know a thing or two about sound equipment and perhaps even processing, it's a closely related field anyway.

tl;dr: Does anyone know any good literature or articles that cover voice processing for the purpose of voice overs

Oh and the topic of videos that I'd eventually want to produce is /diy/ related anyways in the sense that I'd use them as a learning tool.

[Anonymous No.1557781]

>>1557775

Maybe I have misunderstood your question, but decent video software like Sony Vegas have a lot of tools to process audio and to add it to video tracks with complete control over fade in/out, volume, etc. You can visually see the audio trace so it's pretty easy to get it precisely timed vs video events.

[Anonymous No.1557782]

>>1557781
That sort of stuff is covered by my video editor software yeah
But I'm mostly wondering about the pre-processing before the soundbite even touches the timeline of the editor

Like equalization and whatnot

[Anonymous No.1557783]

>>1557773
yes it will work.

[Anonymous No.1557789]

>>1557781
I do have editing experience from a few months long internship at our national television, but my job had very little in terms of actual processing of footage and audio, just stacking it in the editor.

The processing was covered by other departments

But if I were to do a home production I'd have to cover all those jobs by myself to get a quality product

[Anonymous No.1557868]

>>1557782
>sound preprocessing
you sound like you're trying to get into youtube
I seriously doubt anyone actually does that.

The core of what you're trying to do is to make things "sound good", and depending on what effect you're going for, you may use different tools.
For example, if you wanted a binaural effect, you could mock the density of a human skull between two microphones.
Or you could use a trained machine learning model.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_7qpPOmsME
Or you might need to simulate an echo in the sound in a believable way for the environment
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DzsZ2qMtEUE
Or you might need to isolate a sound signal from instruments, multiple speakers...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zL6ltnSKf9k

You misunderstand the purpose of equalization. Equalization is an adjustment made to the equipment to make it sound closer to a reference sound wave. It's like having a color calibrated monitor. So your viewers get what you want them to get, to some degree.

[Anonymous No.1557894]

I want to sound-isolate a limited region of my floor, to reduce the effects of banging around on it, by placing some kind of temporary mat on top of it.
I suspect the usual products are mass loaded vinyl, but there's no literature about using this stuff on the floor.
Also, I can't seem to find anyone selling this stuff by the foot. Whole rolls or nothing. What gives?

[Anonymous No.1557895]

>>1557894
to be clear I am not looking to install a MLV subfloor, literally just shoving a mat on the floor when I need to use it, then putting it back in the closet.

[Anonymous No.1557950]

>>1557783
so no need to secure the axle? would rather buy the sammler one but i think the 899 is the safest option. thanks for your answer

[Anonymous No.1558038]

This smartphone has a dead battery. I need to get it working again to retrieve some files

Unfortunately it has a built-in battery so I can't strip an usb cable and hold it against the battery connectors in order to make it draw current directly from a wall socket.

I have other smartphone batteries lying around but none of them have the same flex cable plug (see purple circle).

Is there anything I can do (other than buying a chinese replacement battery) to get it to start somehow?

ps: i'm scared shitless of batteries, hear they can flare up like a motherfucker and cause 3rd degree burns

[Anonymous No.1558049]

>>1557617
I kinda know how they look like, but I have never seen one IRL, so it is difficult.
Looks like there are only 2 species are poisonous...
>>1557611
I know, but having 3 cm spiders crawling isn't cool.
>>1557599
I have this spray, shit smells horrible.
What is better: die from spider poison, or die from spider poisoning spray?

[Anonymous No.1558058]

>>1558038
Dead batteries won't explode, if they aren't puffed. (here is my shitty battery pack, haven't explode yet)
Remove cells, connect power supply or working cell, copy files.

[Anonymous No.1558060]

I have $1200aud to spend by the end of March

what tools should I buy to start off my collection?

[Anonymous No.1558063]

>>1558049
It is frankly pretty pathetic to literally scare yourself to death by breathing and ingesting pesticides.
Carry a salt gun and a bottle of oxyacetylene, and every few weeks, blast the shit out of all of the crap you left lying around in the yard.
Indoors should not realistically be a problem, and if it is, you probably deserve it anyways.

[Anonymous No.1558064]

>>1558063
>a bottle of oxyacetylene
really?

[Anonymous No.1558068]

>>1558064
It's the method that requires the least effort, just wave the wand of death over everything that needs killing.
Bonus points because a quick pass doesn't damage wood or plastic but will destroy the shit out of webs and bugs

[Anonymous No.1558072]

>>1558068
actually a propane torch probably makes more sense in this application, but use what you got, and if you got common sense then use that too

[Anonymous No.1558076]

>>1558068
>a bottle of oxyacetylene
>It's the method that requires the least effort,
You can't put oxygen and acetylene in a bottle.
well, perhaps you can but it won't stay in there long

[Anonymous No.1558092]

I broke the cradle for my adjustable weights and want to make a new one out of cement.
How do I go about this without getting the dumbbells stuck forever?

[Anonymous No.1558093]

>>1558092
Cradle looks like this.
Is there a spray or tape I can use to stop it from becoming embedded, or is concrete just a retarded idea?

[Anonymous No.1558124]

>>1557361
I'm an expert on this. Smoke outside, scrub.

[Anonymous No.1558127]

>>1557755
If it's a mechanical controller it could just be that the contacts are burnt up. The mechanical controller is pretty much a collection of cams that operate what is basically relay contacts. Find the ones that get activated when the spin cycle is operating. What make and model?

[Anonymous No.1558136]

>>1557196
Assuming your ballasts are in good working order, there is an inrush current of 125% operating load for about a half second when you turn the switch on. If your ballasts are less efficient (take longer to kick the cfl on), that 125% goes to 150% and stays there until the bulbs finally turn on. LEDs don't "burn out" like incandescent and fluorescent bulbs do; instead, they gradually become dimmer over their lifespan. New LEDs have a 10k-hour brightness half life, and they do not require a ballast.

[Beppu No.1558159]

>>1558072

[Anonymous No.1558170]

>>1558060
Assuming it's just for around the house, go on Gumtree and get second hand stuff. I recently had my tools stolen in a burglary, and did that.

$500ish will get you a bunch of cordless tools from some tradie. The batteries might not hold much charge, but you can keep swapping them out at home. A lot of the damage to the actual units will be fairly superficial though.

$100-200 can get you a good mitre saw (for wood).
$100 will get you a good cutoff saw (for metal).
Depends on what you want to do. Corded tools go really cheaply, if you wanted those. Jigsaws, angle grinders, etc. can be bought for $20-75, from older Makita or Black and Decker to newer (but old) DeWalt stuff.

>Once you've got what you wanted there, go to Bunnings!

Get some decent drill bits, saw blades, etc. for the power tools you got. Get the decent brands like Diablo (blades) and Sutton Tools (drill bits). These will be reasonably expensive.

Also get new whatever hand tools you may need: screwdriver set, Allen keys, pliers, hammer, Stanley knife, tape measure, hack saw, etc. These can all be bought new quite cheaply for a known brand like Stanley.

>As for the cheap brand stuff, I've bought a few Trojan brand stuff, which seems to be decent quality, but Craftright seems to be utter shit from the couple things I've bought

Lastly, get some safety gear. Safety glasses, earmuffs, gloves, some disposable facemasks. If you need it, get some tool bags or hard plastic cases.

Lastly, get a snag on your way out.

[Anonymous No.1558177]

>>1558063
>a bottle of oxyacetylene
Anybody who's ever used oxyacetylene, knows it comes in two separate bottles, and you don't just casually carry them around, because they're usually two large bottles on a cart.

Also, there are species of spiders that only really lives indoors. They hitch a ride on furniture from their native climate, then end up in a hostile climate where they can't survive outside, eg. because of temperature or humidity differences.

[Anonymous No.1558179]

>>1558170
>disposable facemasks
These are pretty much a meme, if they don't seal around the edges of the mask you'll be sucking in particulates. get pic related and adjust until you get a good seal.

[Anonymous No.1558191]

>>1558179
I posted on the assumption that he's kicking up dust at home. A disposable facemask will still stop you from breathing in most of the dust or whatever else, and he's working on a limited budget.

[Anonymous No.1558270]

>>1553839
What's the best way to hang a flag horizontally on drywall?

pic related, it has 2 grommets.

[Anonymous No.1558342]

I have a couple big wooden beams in my house that have holes /dents in them. How should I go about filling them in so they don't look so distracting?

[Anonymous No.1558347]

>>1558342
With wood filler.

[Anonymous No.1558349]

>>1558342
>filling them in so they don't look so distracting?
It's wood. It isn't supposed to look like plastic.
Stop being an autist.

[Anonymous No.1558364]

>>1558347
I saw some at the store that came in a tiny tube and was really expensive. I'm guessing that's different. Is there something like drywall spackle that you can use with wood?

Also, got any tips for matching the wood grain? I was planning on just using a pencil.

[Anonymous No.1558379]

I'm looking to make a silicone mask, and I have no idea how I'm supposed to make a mold for it.
Clay would be the obvious answer for a small item, but I don't have a way to transport the amount of clay I'd need for a mask and it seems very wasteful.

[Anonymous No.1558416]

>>1557571
thanks for pointing that out - now I'm looking and seeing lower prices like this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-4-ft-50-Watt-White-Integrated-LED-Strip-Light-MNSL-L48-2LL-MVOLT-40K-80CRI-M6/300263608?

So that's $110 for 2 ( counting tax ) which isn't bad. I just have a feeling at least one of them will have broken in the next 5 years.

[Anonymous No.1558417]

>>1558170
craigslist and local estate sales / auctions. get fucking everything you need.

[Anonymous No.1558419]

>>1557007
h-hello? please respond

[Beppu No.1558455]

>>1558270
Just use some thumbtacks

[Anonymous No.1558459]

>>1558417
Australia doesn't use Craigslist, it uses Gumtree. Hence, Gumtree.

[Anonymous No.1558612]

Whats the best way to acquire shitloads of succulents to build pic related? Ive heard that you can clone them from single cutoff leaves but so far havent had success with that method. Does anyone have a proper guide? The ones Im finding arent very detailed as to how exactly to cut the leaves, till what point to dry them and then how to place them on the substrate/ water them...

[Anonymous No.1558629]

>>1558612

That's beautiful but I'd bet good odds that it was all grown conventionally, meaning horizontal and in bright sunlight, and only recently mounted on the wall. I'd like to see it if they left it on the wall for a few years.

[Anonymous No.1558650]

>>1558629
Ah yeah sorry might have been misleading. You definitely grow the plants regularly. I just need a cheap way to do that since succulents are like two to three euro per piece and I think Ill need like at least fifty to a hundred to get on with my project, so if I can get the cloning going I could save myself a lot.
Pic related is how you build this thing. Moss behind the wire mesh to keep moisture and then the roots of the succulents braided in tightly.

[Anonymous No.1558654]

https://www.lowes.com/pd/kobalt-12-piece-shank-screwdriver-bit-set/3125843

[Anonymous No.1558659]

>>1558654

Do you wear that around your wrist? Is it the beginning of a Bepis tool line?

[eNon No.1558670]

>>1558654
>>1558659
I've bought a generic set years ago at Menards. You could put them around your wrist, I think wrapping them around your drill would be more practical.

They come in handy, especially when taking down a project the previous person used 3 different types of screws to put up.

[Anonymous No.1558694]

>>1558191
That mask and 2 filters costs about £18 in bongland which is roughly 5 disposable face masks of the same level of filtration. You can still breathe relatively normally with the proper mask, and like I said, no leaks. You only get one set of lungs, "within budget" is meaningless when you've compromised your future life.

[Anonymous No.1558727]

I've been trying to propagate my own moss to eventually use in terrariums, but its been over a month and none of it has spread. It looks alive, but its just not spreading.
This is my first time doing anything like this but I've been using tap water treated for chlorine, mist the box and spray each clump 4 times daily, have them under an LED bulb for 8-10 hours daily, and even mounted a computer fan in the top to circulate air because I heard it helps but nothing.
Do I need some sort of special LED bulb for this? Are the clumps to small to spread?

[Anonymous No.1558902]

I want to do 2.5" screws to mount 1.5" thick 2x4s onto a wall. Should I go to 3" instead, to compensate for the half inch drywall.

[Anonymous No.1558907]

>>1558902

yeah. It's not required, but I like to drill a clearance hole through the 2x4 so that the screw is just pulling the board against the wall. So, if you're going to do that, you can use a larger drill to countersink the head a half-inch or so and give your screw more anchor length in the studs.

[Beppu No.1558936]

>>1558612
With good sun and water a few times a week, they go fast. Only ones I tried to propogate were those long string ones and they grow fast as well. Pic related is after a little over a year, that bottom plant is the same as the tiny thing on the left in the top pic.

[Anonymous No.1559105]

Hey guys, my amp has started buzzing and I'm not sure where to start. Last time it happened I opened it up, tried to look for loose connections, found none, put it back together, and the buzz disappeared for some six months. It also usually goes away if I hit it with my hand.

I don't know much about amps but to me it sounds more like a loose connector, maybe solder joint, not a bad capacitor or anything like that.

[Anonymous No.1559118]

>>1558936
Ok thanks for the info. I feel like there is so much conflicting information on how much water to give them though.
You definitely have to dry the leaves for the first few days right? So the wound closes a bit.
But then some people continue to not give them any water, some spray them every other week and some seem to let them grow completely in the water...

[Anonymous No.1559148]

>>1554523
Removable cushions or fixed? Pictures will help.

At minimum, you should be able to insert some firm material (even thick card) behind the main support springs and the fabric.

If it's the circular/wound springs in the cushions themselves, a bit tricker but same idea - Isolate them from your back/booty with a layer of something under the fabric.

[Anonymous No.1559156]

>>1556063
>How can I get this back on?

This poster gives good instructions:

>>1556081

You really do want to remove the board from the surroundings though, as it'll be nearly impossible to get enough heat onto the board/component within that space to get it to re-attach.

Alternatively, you could solder on wires to the contacts on the board, which will be easier, then attach the component to the other end of the wires. That'll let you work outside of the case for the component.

[Anonymous No.1559158]

>>1557512
Just a side comment anon, careful about the colour temperatures on those Phillips LED lights. They have cool and warm temp versions, and the cool temp ones will really fuck up your sleep if you use them in the house.

I use the cool ones in the garage (perfect for seeing fine work) but only ever warm version in the house.

[Anonymous No.1559159]

>>1557583
Depending on where you live, any work on a reticulated gas system may require a licensed practitioner. It's generally a good idea too, as capping off an old system you want to stop using does carry some long-term risks if not performed competently.

[Anonymous No.1559161]

>>1557704
>bought one a while ago but don't find it any more useful than just adding one of these on the end of my hose
Are you sure it's working properly, anon? Even the basic electric models should be very effective at stripping old paint and washing moss away, well beyond what mains pressure hoses can achieve.

Best use for them is cleaning concrete/asphalt driveways. Gotta be careful cleaning the car as any decent one will damage bearings and send water into bad places if mis-aimed.

[Anonymous No.1559163]

>>1558038
If you shuck the battery casing back to bare cells, you should find there's a standard set of connections between the cells and the ribbon cable. Power injected there should work fine.

But, are you sure it's the battery? Seems weird that a dead battery would stop the phone powering on when connected by cable.

[Anonymous No.1559166]

>>1557564
>What do? How do I get rid all of spiders at home?

Remove all vegetation that touches the outside of your house, and eliminate as many gravel/stone beds around nearby as well (spiders fucking LOVE those).

Reduce moisture in the house as much as you can, as spiders will dessicate quickly in a dry environment. This is why they hang out in the bathroom/kitchen often. Simple stuff like keeping the bathroom door always closed and venting with the bathroom window all the time can help a lot.

Since you're kinda phobic, I'm not gonna recommend getting under the house to install a damp-proof membrane because the odds of you coming across 8-legged big boyes is pretty high down there. But you could hire someone to get this put down. It should dry the house out a lot since moisture rises, and covering the ground stops a major source of it in your home.

[Anonymous No.1559170]

>>1558093
Why concrete? Wood may be a better choice.

Also, is the original unsalvageable? Plastic can be glued pretty effectively in many instances.

[Anonymous No.1559172]

>>1558727
You might get better results using a moss slurry. Guides online for how to do that, and you'd just need to sacrifice one of your existing moss balls to give it a try.

[Anonymous No.1559176]

>>1559105
Gonna need to fault-find. Basic option is to open it up while powered on, and carefully (CAREFULLY) jiggle likely wires/connections to see if you can trigger it into not buzzing. That way you might find the right spot to focus on.

More complicated, is getting a multimeter and testing all over to find the fault.

Don't fucking electrocute yourself though.

[Anonymous No.1559205]

I find I use this tool a lot to prune my avacado tree

what's the knipex quality tier version of them?

something that makes the cutting more effortless after prolonged cutting

[Anonymous No.1559376]

Is it safe to burn plywood scraps on my charcoal grill? As in food safe - non toxic.

[Anonymous No.1559391]

>>1559376
No, don't risk it. If you're curious why, jewgle it.

[Anonymous No.1559410]

>>1559376
Sure, I don't think burning adhesives directly below food you then eat will be at all suspect.

[Anonymous No.1559515]

What kind of a connector/gateway do I need if I want to convert signals from GSM (SIM card) to analog analog telephone adapter. I have found some gateways online that might be what I need. But they are really big and expensive, made for multiple SIM cards, while I only need it for one SIM card.

[DeWalt Lifer No.1559616]

>>1559205
Fiskars makes good cutting tools. Get the best model they have and keep it sharp. If your hand is still getting tired, stop fapping so much and get a lopper.

[Anonymous No.1559619]

is it possible to cut marble by hand without it being impossible or it bursting into million pieces?

the pieces are like 15x15x8 mm and I would like to cut them into flat plates. is that possible?

[Anonymous No.1559624]

>>1559616

I'm always misplacing my scissors so I buy the 30-pack every year or so and always have a pair handy. I kinda think my wife's son might be selling them to buy drugs but I'm not allowed to question him after the Gatorade episode.

[DeWalt Lifer No.1559631]

>>1559624
Kek, that’s not a bad idea. Just toss the cunts when they get dull.

I like this shorter shear style a lot too, the red one in the pic. Will slice through paper and zipties. Lowe’s had a 2pk with a medium and larger Kobalt set for like $7 and I kinda regret not grabbing it just to have extras around. Next time I’m there I’m going to look if they’re still on sale,

[Anonymous No.1559678]

>>1559118
Maybe willow water would help.

[Anonymous No.1559682]

>>1559619
By hand, as in, without power tools? It'll be exceedingly difficult. If you have a chop saw or a table saw, it's doable with water and a diamond blade.

[DeWalt Lifer No.1559707]

>>1559118
I think the girl waters them twice a week and they grow and grow. If you want to keep them small and succulent, don’t do that, let it dry out for a week or two and then give them some moist soil.

But all the signs on them say “Bright Light” so I’m not sure how well they will do indoors. I had mine under the roof in my Florida Room so they got like 3hrs of direct light in the AM and then indirect the rest of the day and they wanted to stretch tall after a few months and they don’t look right when they stretch for sun.

[Anonymous No.1559722]

>>1557252
>a few hours, overnight, etc occasionally

Leave it on the charger if you can't be arsed/don't need to take it off promptly.

>several days to a few weeks

Don't leave on the charger; it's not a storage rack and the battery will still be good to go when you need it without the added fire hazard of negligence.

>30+ days

Discharge to 30-50% capacity and store somewhere that isn't hot or wet. Recharge like normal when needed or at least once every 6 months.

[Anonymous No.1559807]

>>1553839
How do I speed up the time it takes my toaster oven to reach "max temperature"?

I'm using a cheap 1100W toaster oven I bought from Walmart. So far I have added insulation inside the chassis (Roxul), sealed all airgaps with high temp caulk, and added gold reflective tape within the interior of the oven to reflect heat back to the core.

Right now it has a rise time of 2.5°C/sec, but when it reaches around 150°C, it drops down to 1°C/sec and slows down even further before it reaches max temp (255°C). Probably something in the neighborhood of 0.5°C/sec if not slower.

Is there anything else I can really do? The most I think I can do at this point is add a fan to circulate the heat and/or add more elements. Which seems a bit excessive to me.

[Anonymous No.1559847]

>>1559176
Debugging with the thing powered makes sense. I'll try it out and try not to die. Thanks!

[Anonymous No.1559882]

Can I use a bolt as part of ground in an electrical fixture?

The blue electrical box is set back too far into the wall. I need the screws marked green to move forward 1/4 inch.

To accomplish this, I put a bolt on the backside of the purple section where I screwed it into the electrical box. This pushed the purple metal structure, and the green screws outward the 1/4 i needed.

I'm assuming this is fine, but wanted to make sure.

[Anonymous No.1559908]

I'm looking for a plastic dome about 20cm in size, with enough strength to survive significant negative pressure (not a full facuum chamber).
I can't find one online that ships to NZ though aaaaaaaaa

[Anonymous No.1559943]

>>1559882
It's fine.
The normal procedure is to get longer 'green' screws leaving the 'purple' part against the box.

[DeWalt Lifer No.1559947]

>>1559908
Cut the bottom off a scuba tank or co2 cylinder if you can find a good round one.

[Anonymous No.1559949]

>>1559807
Physics limitations; rate of heat transfer is dependent on temperature difference between two bodies. The lower the difference, the slower the heat transfer... for conduction and radiative heat transfer any ways. A fan would help but 1100W is honestly pretty low power.

[Anonymous No.1559999]

>>1558419
>>1557007
come on 4channel dot org, this can't be that hard. I really need to connect those pipes but I can't afford to pay like $10 for each fitting

[Anonymous No.1560001]

>>1559999

use a block of wood and drill holes in it for the pipes, and secure the pipes with deck screws.

[Anonymous No.1560009]

>>1560001
I've thought about this but not sure how sturdy it would be. I'll do it if I can't find a better alternative but I'm still trying to find one. I'll need 12 of these joints and I'm scared it will be flimsy if I just use blocks of wood. I don't even know if I have the proper tools for drilling holes of proper size

[Anonymous No.1560025]

>>1559949
>but 1100W is honestly pretty low power.
Well I have a spare oven (exact same one I'm using, I bought 2). If I take the elements from that oven and transplant them into the "hacked" oven, would that help? I'm technically increasing the wattage, no? Would I blow a fuse doing this?

[Anonymous No.1560034]

>>1558659
you put it around your drill, desu

[Anonymous No.1560044]

I have A LOT OF Li-ion 18650 batteries.
What can I do with them?

[Anonymous No.1560117]

I want to make a small scale microwave transformer arc furnace and I know it will make my transformer overheat. So the question is - can I submerge the whole transformer in distilled water to cool it? The the wires are isolated and they will be waterproof. I tried googling it but got no concrete answers

[Anonymous No.1560128]

>>1559999
find some tubing / pipe with 28mm bore and weld up your own

[Anonymous No.1560130]

>>1560117
>can I submerge the whole transformer in distilled water to cool it?
immerse it in mineral oil

[Anonymous No.1560160]

>>1559943
ok cool thanks.

[Beppu No.1560165]

>>1560044
Make a bunch of power banks. You can get the USB boards for like a dollhair or two.

I have a handful laying around too and I’m tempted to try and make a jumper pack for my car but I think I need to git gud at spot welding first.

[Anonymous No.1560172]

>>1560165
>Make a bunch of power banks. You can get the USB boards for like a dollhair or two.
Hm... Indeed.
>I have a handful laying around too and I’m tempted to try and make a jumper pack for my car but I think I need to git gud at spot welding first.
Some of them had been soldered, so spot-welding is impossible.

[Anonymous No.1560181]

my Xbone shit the bed and wont power on via any method, its definitely the console and microsoft wants me to send it in for a $170 repair. does anyone here have any experience fixing these fuckers? i havent opened it up yet to look at the internals, and there was no discernable cause. it was working fine, and then after we moved (it was packed in blankets, no impact damage) it just wont power up.

[Anonymous No.1560209]

>>1557017
Might be too late now but look up fence post anchors anon (pic related).

You cast one end into concrete and then bolt your timber to the bracket part.

[Anonymous No.1560214]

>>1558364
You can make your own wood filler with wood glue and sawdust or sanding-dust.

[Beppu No.1560240]

>>1560172
Pic related for the power banks. They’re probably half the price on ebay and even less on Ali. Parallel as many cells as you want. People might love buying them up at festivals and stuff to get half a charge for <$10 and toss the thing.

[Anonymous No.1560292]

>>1560025
Yes and Yes, unless you plug it into a 20 amp outlet. The elements have to be wired in parallel... or just use the two cords.

[Anonymous No.1560300]

>>1554056
From downtown...

[Anonymous No.1560473]

>>1560209
I did consider that, but it's honestly too expensive for me right now. A 1.2 metre length of threaded rod is about the same price, and I'll get several piers' worth out of each. Those anchors aren't too expensive for a few, but I've worked it out to be about forty piers for the whole thing, which pushes it a bit out of my budget.

But on the bright side, I got a bootload of floor tiles yesterday for free! Some dodgy tiler fucked a job up and didn't waterproof correctly; the owner had to get them ripped out and redone. I just gotta clean all the backs of them, probably carefully chisel off the big bits, then use a wire brush to clean off the little bits.

Anybody have any tips on cleaning and reusing tiles, let me know! It'll probably be pretty tedious, but I've got more time than money.

[Anonymous No.1560512]

>>1553952
>google drill attachment bit holder
Alternatively, get a bit holder and affix it to your drill DIY. Zip ties, epoxy, velcro, or rub one out on it, up to you.

[Anonymous No.1560556]

>>1557110
>>1558124
b&r

[Anonymous No.1560565]

>>1560473
There's 2 issues with using just threaded rod.

1. It'll probably just be mild steel, so you'll have no corrosion resistance meaning it'll rust straight away and eventually lose its strength

2. Are you planning on drilling holes in the end of the logs and slotting the rods into them? Depending on the forces you're very likely to split the log due to the high stresses you'll induce. The reason those post anchors bolt perpendicular to the grain of the timber is that's much stronger than going parallel to it

Just in case you're unaware, the reason you want to use a post anchor rather than just have the logs sit on the concrete is that you don't want the logs potentially sitting in moisture and rotting.

If it's only a temporary thing then fine, but as you've treated the timber I'm assuming you want it to last, so don't cheap out.

[Anonymous No.1560570]

>>1560565
I'm not using logs for the beams, I'm sticking a couple 70x35mm pieces of framing timber together, glued then nailed. The threaded rod will go through the centre of the glued pieces.

I'm not planning on using mild steel, I had chosen M12 galvanised threaded rod.

Also, it won't be sitting on top of concrete, but on top of the brick piers, with some builders plastic between the two surfaces.

[Anonymous No.1560580]

Heavy bunker doors arouse me. I found one that weights 660kg. I wish to install it in my basement. How dumb is it?

[Anonymous No.1560581]

>>1560580
Ok there's no way I can get it in there actually
Fuck it
I just want a bunker and a hind

[Anonymous No.1560608]

>>1560581
I feel ya man. I have a whole mix ready to play when I finally get my attack copter.

[Anonymous No.1560653]

>>1560570
Ah my bad I think I'd misunderstood your previous posts then, and good to hear you're using galvanised.

In which case brick piers connected to the beams by the threaded bar to provide the lateral connection sounds completely reasonable. Would just suggest maybe adding some cross bracing or a few 'long' brick walls rather than piers to provide the overall lateral stability.

[Anonymous No.1560686]

Is phenolic paper flammable? Can I safely build a flame enclosure out if it? Also what are some (cheap) non-flammable adhesives?

[Anonymous No.1560709]

Why buy indoor wood glue and school glue when they cost the same as outdoor water resistant wood glue?

[Anonymous No.1560903]

>>1559631
imagine having scissors that you can't take apart with a wrench and a flathead
imagine being unable to sharpen scissors

[Hansel No.1560974]

>>1560903
>1992+27
>fixing or maintaining anything
Thanks to China, everything is consumable!

But seriously the only pair of scissors I ever remember owning that could be taken apart were terrible and dull and loose and heavy and awkward to use. That guy who posted the 30pk from Amazon had the right idea.

[Anonymous No.1560999]

>>1559205
have you ever sharpened it?

[Anonymous No.1561024]

How did I do for my first air nailer?

[Anonymous No.1561040]

>>1561024
Where did you find this deal? Looks like really good pricing

[Anonymous No.1561041]

>>1561024
>buying oil free compressors

[Anonymous No.1561043]

>>1561024

Fucked up by not buying hotdog

[Anonymous No.1561052]

>>1561043
Like it matters

You know he isn’t really gonna use it anyway

[Anonymous No.1561056]

>>1560974
I actually bought these left-handed scissors from joann's fabrics. They're insanely tight AND I can take them apart.
It sucks that Chang has done you wrong.

[Anonymous No.1561069]

>>1561040
Refurbished ebay

[Anonymous No.1561071]

>>1561041
Not sure what this meme implies

>>1561043
>>1561052
Are Hotdogs better than pancakes for some reason?

[Anonymous No.1561106]

Does a 3.5kg/cm torque means I can lift a 3.5kg weight 1cm away from my axis ?

[Anonymous No.1561107]

>>1561106
yes

[Anonymous No.1561108]

>>1561107
thanks

[Anonymous No.1561335]

>>1553839
I'm absolutely new to soldering and I need to buy a soldering iron for a small project.
I'll be using it for itty bitty shitty stuff as well, but I want a decent station that will last me long time.

Getting a Hakko FX-888D seems to be jumping the gun too fast. As much as I hate chinkshit, is this AoYue good enough?
https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Variable-Soldering-Station-Removable/dp/B00MCVCHJM/

[Anonymous No.1561337]

>>1553839
if i want to make something on a cnc machine what programs do i need to use and preferably free

[Anonymous No.1561338]

>>1561071
>Not sure what this meme implies

Oil free compressors dont last all that long, they wear quickly
Oiled compressors last a lot longer.
The 8 gallon oiled Harbor Freight compressor is the best bang for your buck in that ~$100 price range.

Hotdog vs pancake doesnt mean shit, thats just the shape of the tank.

[Anonymous No.1561342]

>>1561335
>Getting a Hakko FX-888D seems to be jumping the gun too fast

Not really, itll help you learn faster.

[Anonymous No.1561345]

>>1561024
Did you buy an air hose and fittings?

[Anonymous No.1561356]

Semi-retard here. I just can't do finish type of carpentry. I can never get angles right in corners. I measure the angle of the wall, set the saw for 1/2 of the angle, then poof, they never line up. There is either a gap or they don't fit. I spend time pissing around, but never seem to get there. What is the trick for simply mitering a corner? I have a craftsman compound miter saw, could the gage on the saw be hosed up or something???

[Anonymous No.1561362]

>>1561335
When it comes to electronics I usually buy a reasonably expensive and trusted model so that I instantly know that I am in fact the one who is doing it wrong

[Anonymous No.1561367]

>>1561338
Can I not just oil and maintain the "Oiless" tank? I was assuming it was just a buzzword to attract people who don't want to di maintenance

[Anonymous No.1561370]

>>1561345
Planning on getting a poly one in store after I get the gun and tank, I seem to have a bad track record on accessories that require certain fittings

[Dr Bepper No.1561381]

>>1561370
You can buy the little kits for $15 with a bunch of fittings and some cheap blow gun and then spend $10-$50 on whatever hose fits your needs best. It’s pretty basic, I thought it would be more confusing when I got my first compressor but it’s all kinda standard for consumer size compressors and you can even buy the shit at Walmart. Only thing to really pay attention to is whether the certain tool needs a male plug or female plug.

[Anonymous No.1561383]

>>1561381
>it’s all kinda standard

there's some bullshit difference between industrial plugs and automotive plugs; harbor freight sells both so you need to know which you have. (and apparently another type, ARO which I've never encountered)

[Anonymous No.1561384]

>>1561367
>Can I not just oil and maintain the "Oiless" tank?

It literally means the piston and the cylinder walls are not oiled, they have a teflon coating for lubrication. As opposed to a more traditional piston with oil.
Yes the oil needs changed, but they last a lot longer.

[Anonymous No.1561386]

>>1561384
Interesting, thanks for the heads up, i'll have to keep an eye on it, I won't be using it daily anyway

[Anonymous No.1561389]

>>1561383
>>1561381
Buy this kit, its superior.
https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/air-accessory-kits/12-pc-professional-air-tool-accessory-kit-68194.html

The hose/tire gauge/inflator/steel fittings are junk
This kit has all brass fittings with a better inflator.

[Anonymous No.1561399]

>>1561342
How is it going to make a difference?
I know the Hakko is more respected and better made... But what makes you say that?

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M/

By the way, what is the connector into the station? It might be US plug, but I need UK 3-prong plug.

>>1561362
As in the device is not at fault?
Sorry for bad comprehension.

[Dr Bepper No.1561427]

>>1561389
I just picked the first cheap kit I found on Home Depot.

>>1561383
Are they the same thread size? I just grabbed whatever since they all said 1/4” NPT or whatever.

[Anonymous No.1561431]

>>1561399
>By the way, what is the connector into the station? It might be US plug, but I need UK 3-prong plug.
I'm in the UK and have the same model.

[Anonymous No.1561450]

>>1556335
so if i lockpick the keyhole i don't need the combination. thanks

[Anonymous No.1561452]

>>1557161
so if i lockpick the keyhole i don't need the combination. thanks

[Anonymous No.1561500]

>>1561356
If you're doing trim work in a room you should cope the corners, not miter them.

[Anonymous No.1561569]

Test

[Anonymous No.1561570]

>>1561569
I have a closet like this on similar floors and want to take them down and put in a door. What's a good way to do this? Frame a wall and install on top of the floor?

[Anonymous No.1561656]

>>1561431
Just to be on the safe side, using the same amazon link I posted?

What's the connector type into the device? C13?

I don't feel like getting another power cable if the plug is wrong.

[Anonymous No.1561664]

>>1557007
Search for "3 way 90 pvc"

[Anonymous No.1561683]

Im trying to get a custom sized "mousemat" thats fairly large, about 1.5x1.8 meters. does anyone know where i could get one made, or a similar material?

[Dr Bepper No.1561686]

>>1561683
Have you tried looking on the internet? I hear they offer all sorts of great things over there.

[Anonymous No.1561691]

>>1561686
yes i have, i havent found anywhere

[Anonymous No.1561713]

>>1561683
Sounds more like you want an anti-fatigue mat. They come in larger sizes than a mousepad would. You'd be hard pressed to find a mouse pad that is 1 meter long let alone almost 2.

[Anonymous No.1561721]

>>1561713
not really an anti fatigue mat. it doesnt even need to be sold as a mousemat, it just needs to be a hard plastic sheet with the texture of one thats the size i need

[Dr Bepper No.1561731]

>>1561721
What about those plastic mats that go over carpeting so rolling chairs don’t sink into the carpet?

[Anonymous No.1561737]

So I'm trying to fix my earphone which only works on one side, I figure out that I need to cut down the cable, then re-attach it to the plug/earphone jack. The problem is, I don't know that about this protection case(?) that attached to the jack, it's hard and idk why there's a little cable that protruding (shit design?) and I'm afraid if I try to pull it out by force it will broke. And I can't re-attach the cable without opening this shit.

[Anonymous No.1561742]

>>1561737
Well, fuck me. I didn't even knew what I was doing.

[Anonymous No.1561753]

>>1561742
I'm about to do this at home. it isn't that hard - can you solder?

1) Cut off the old one. its ok you fucked it up. you would have chopped it off anyway

2) find your replacement 1/8 jack. usually off some crap headphones, or if patient you can order them off ebay - like 5 for $5.00.

3) strip and solder the wires together. if feeling classy use some heat shrink on it

[Anonymous No.1561755]

>>1561683
neoprene sheet covered with fabric

https://www.quora.com/What-fabric-should-I-use-to-make-high-precision-gaming-mouse-pads-Base-will-be-non-slip-rubber

[Anonymous No.1561830]

>>1553839
Im going to have to keep my gaming computer and monitor outside. How do I protect these from the elements? I live in SoCal but it does rain. I was thinking a mineral oil computer but i'm wondering if there's an easier way. No one could help me on /g/.

[Anonymous No.1561837]

>>1561830
/k/ommando here

I've used mineral oil a shitload to protect gun steel from rust, and it's not really thaaat great at that job, requires frequent re-application, etc. If you are just leaving it out on the side of your house bare, it's going to get fucked. If you put it in a bunch of plastic bags with a bunch of mineral oil put in, you might be okay. Keep in mind mineral oil may or may not fuck up computer parts, that part I don't know.

Really you'd be better off buying those plastic semi-sealable containers with the tops that pop on and off. Big plastic tubs for clothes and shit, basically.

[Anonymous No.1561874]

>>1561737
>>1561742
Half of the time, when one side goes dead the wire failure is up near the headphone itself

[Anonymous No.1561878]

>>1561830
>thick trashbags
>desiccant (pic related, 1$ at dollar tree, buy a bunch of them. shit works wonders)
>big rubbermaid containers

Just stick the desiccant containers in the bottom of the garbage bag, and stick your PC in with it, seal up the bag and stick it in a rubbermaid container.
It wont hurt it at all being left out in the rain.

It will be a lot trickier trying to actually run the machine, but I still say to the same thing, just run wires outside of the bag (and seal where the wires protrude).
Not sure what to tell you about being able to use the monitor

[Anonymous No.1561949]

>>1553839
My boiler pressure dropped to 0, so I opened the valves and let it fill to 2 bar and everything started working again. However, the pressure has continued to rise and has stopped at just below 3 where there's a little red mark which I assume means "don't go over this mark". How can I reduce the pressure a bit so it's not so close to the warning mark?
Boiler is Ariston Microgenus 23.

[Anonymous No.1561965]

>>1560686
“These PCB materials are known as FR-1 and FR-2 – FR-2 is rated to 130 °C, FR-1 is rated to 105 °C.”
-fucking google

How fireproof do you want it.

[Anonymous No.1561993]

I had to move my fridge out of the cupboard today and found an old, patina'd too (cast iron, made in england, can't find any info regarding the company markings on it though)

I've also got some more useful things like a vice, etc. that I'd like to restore and get the rust off/repaint.

What kind of tools should I be using to get the rust off? What grit of sandpaper without eating too much of the metal itself?

I'm super bored waiting for my phase 1 start date and am looking for shit to do.

[Anonymous No.1561996]

>>1561993
Think I might have had a stroke halfway through that post. Found a patina'd tool, cast iron made in England, assuming it's a meat mincer.

What grit of sandpaper would be best to take the light rust/patina off.

[Anonymous No.1562008]

>>1553972
...What's wrong with installing a roof rack?

[Anonymous No.1562260]

This used to be a fake brass finish now it's dull and sad. Can I just spray it with some brass spray paint?

[Anonymous No.1562282]

are straight edge guys looked down upon in /diy/ fields? seems like more blue collar guys drink & smoke

[Anonymous No.1562287]

>>1561837
>>1561878
Thanks, I question there being an issue with airflow but it wouldn't hurt me to try.

[Anonymous No.1562421]

Where can I find infrared heating elements that isn't Alibaba?

[Anonymous No.1562425]

>>1562282
>are straight edge guys looked down upon in /diy/ fields? seems like more blue collar guys drink & smoke
People who self-identify as "straight edge" are usually wankers, and many people look down upon wankers.
I don't drink or smoke, but I get along fine with blue collar people.

[Anonymous No.1562430]

>>1562282
Honestly if you never drink I would probably look down on you, but that has more to do with being australian than anything mate.

[Anonymous No.1562432]

Is there a good way to partition a ziplock sandwich bag into halves by application of heat? Was thinking some kind of hot roller would do the job but I don't think I have anything which fits the description.

[Anonymous No.1562450]

>>1562421
Follow-up question: how do I know what wattage bulb to get?

[Anonymous No.1562467]

>>1562450
How much heat do you need?

[Anonymous No.1562470]

>>1562425
i only used "straight edge" instead of "doesn't drink or smoke" not as a personal label but i get ya

[Anonymous No.1562473]

>>1562467
I'm making a reflow oevn, so I need to get to 255°C

[Anonymous No.1562477]

>>1562473
>reflow oevn, 255C
I guess higher the better then right? In the end it'll come down to how much area you're heating and how fast you want it to be, as well as how well insulated the space is.

[Anonymous No.1562480]

>>1561830
wtf why would you put mineral oil on it? Are you storing it, or you need to use it outside? Is there a covered area you can put it under? Shit would be fine in a shed for eternity, you have amazing goddamn weather.

I mean, cardboard box on the back porch would be fine if that kepy it out of the rain

[Anonymous No.1562482]

>>1562282
The only people who care are drug addicts and alcoholics because they need their drinking or whatever to look normal. Honestly, past like 28 no one gives a fuck what you do.

[Anonymous No.1562484]

>>1562480
>wtf why would you put mineral oil on it?

[Anonymous No.1562489]

>>1562477
actually it looks like the ones on amazon are 800-1600W, and I think you want a plate rather than a bulb, something like this:
https://www.ceramicx.com/shop/full-flat-element/

[Anonymous No.1562496]

>>1562477
The problem I encounter with the shitty resistive elements in my cheapo Walmart toaster oven is that the temperature rise slows way the fuck down at ~170°C (going from Soak to Relow) and takes way longer than it needs to reach max temp, something in the realm of 0.25°C/s. Figure the solution is infrared heating elements for quicker heating times.

If I'm to replace the resistive elements in my cheapo toaster oven with infrared bulbs, the total cross sectional area that would have to be heated is 10in^2. Of course, this surface area is shrunk down when I only need to heat the PCB, and that would entirely depend on the PCB size itself.

As far as how fast to heat up; I need it to follow the reflow curve. I need it to heat up at a rate faster than 2°C/s. 5°C/s would be ideal because I can just PWM/ZeroCross dimmer control it to the exact rates.

[Anonymous No.1562501]

>>1562496
Yeah the two things I would say is increase the power and improve the insulation. The system is probably losing a lot of heat as it gets up to 170.
Get a proper heating element and encase it in a properly insulated cooking chamber, attach some computerized gizmo to control the power based on the temperature so you can get the right heating profile and you should be set.

[Anonymous No.1562506]

>>1562501
Oven is very well insulated, I know that isn't the issue. I've gasketted all air gaps with high temp silicone, stuffed the inside with fireproof insulation, and lined the interior of the oven with reflective gold tape.
What would a "proper heating element" be? The current oven has 2 heating elements (top and bottom) each rated at 550W for a total of 1100W.

[Anonymous No.1562546]

>>1562484
Ss a cooling method, not for storage. /k/ommando is talking about putting mineral oil on metal components to prevent rust while it is outside.

I'm also gonna say I think that storing a couple gallons of combustible fuel in SoCal on your porch this summer is just a bad goddamn idea.

[Anonymous No.1562582]

>>1562480
I'd put it in mineral oil to keep humidity and rain out. This winter it was very rainy. Keep in mind im trying to protect both my tower and monitor from humidity.

[Anonymous No.1562586]

>>1562546
>I'm also gonna say I think that storing a couple gallons of combustible fuel in SoCal on your porch this summer is just a bad goddamn idea.
Sounds like a pretty good idea to me

[Anonymous No.1562591]

>>1562582
I feel like I'm missing something. You are going to put your monitor in a vat of mineral oil?

Even if you put your rig into mineral oil

1) parts of it are still exposed - you can't put hard drives in that shit

2) why not just put it in the same container, but NOT add mineral oil. It will do the exact same thing, keep the rain and humidity out.

well shit. I guess you fucking can put your monitor into mineral oil. fucking everything goes into the mineral oil.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meiLmZkJqU0

[Anonymous No.1562630]

>>1562591
>well shit. I guess you fucking can put your monitor into mineral oil. fucking everything goes into the mineral oil.
Obviously. It's nonconductive and noncorrosive. And water can't get in. Don't know why more people don't do it.

[Anonymous No.1563005]

I have a workshop in my basement and want to limit the noise the floor above. I don't expect it to be silent, but I want to be able to use a drill without waking up my kid. Should I wall off the duct work, insulate it, "half wall" around my furnace? Or what?

[Anonymous No.1563042]

Do I understand how air conditioners work correctly?

[Anonymous No.1563046]

>>1563042
Also, why some aircons use valves, while other use capillary tube? Efficiency?

[Anonymous No.1563064]

>>1553839
Alright y'all, just discover that one of the lines coming out of my main panel is a 12 awg wire to a 60 amp panel then broke out to a subpanel in the garage. The whole run uses that same damn wire, which to my understanding is severely underrated for a 60 amp load. I understand its probably not to code but I want to get it to code. Right now, I am trying to figure out what type of wire would be needed? The wire run itself will need to go from the main panel to the 60 amp breaker under the house then back under and across the house to then underground for about 15 ft then fed into the garage. Not sure if there is conduit buried or not but I do want to do that if code requires. I'm in Greenville County, SC. I do plan on putting some power equipment into the garage, so I'm not sure if 60 amps is enough.

[Anonymous No.1563068]

>>1562630
>Don't know why more people don't do it.

I still don't see a reason to in the first place, unless you are trying to cool your bitcoin rig, or as a novelty for OCing shit. I can't see any reason to ever put a monitor in mineral oil. And even a computer - you know how bad it's going to suck when your aquarium springs a fucking leak. It's a fire hazard as well. Just seems completely meme tier

[Anonymous No.1563101]

>>1563068
Well you don't necessarily have to use mineral oil, you can use vegetable oil i think as well, which I don't think is a fire hazard

[Anonymous No.1563360]

>>1563101
That shit rots. I'm sure it will smell awesome in 3 months of heating.

[Anonymous No.1563775]

>>1563064
how many motors do you plan to run at once fuck
60 amps at 110 is almost 9hp. LMGTFY, 4awg.
Might as well run 220 for those motors you dont have and save on wire @2x10awg

[Anonymous No.1563844]

What tools are worth buying from Stanley?

[Anonymous No.1564018]

Can I use a switch on the ground pin of a standard 12v (car relay) to turn it enable/disable it?

Its for extra headlights, which now are always on when high beams are on. The idea is to have to pull only one cable trough the firewall.

[Anonymous No.1564067]

>>1564018
yes

[Anonymous No.1564068]

>>1564018
>The idea is to have to pull only one cable trough the firewall.
If you get the 12v positive for the relay on the same side of the firewall the switch is on, you still only have to pull one wire.