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/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself

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1553436 No.1553436 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

ITT: The best cordless battery soldering irons.

>> No.1553443

bump, preferably temperature adjustable

>> No.1553477

Why the FUCK would you need one?

>> No.1553478

battery sucks unless you have like $100 to throw at the milwaukee m12 soldering iron

butane will get you corded performance for cheap https://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-cordless-soldering-iron-64034.html

>> No.1553481

Pick two.

>> No.1553484
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>> No.1553499

cordless best? battery best? Your options are retarded.

>> No.1553508

There was some anon who built one up out of a kit of Ali Express. It fit in a standard size aluminum case. Now that I think of it, that one may have been corded, but I think there was some other anon who built one in a wooden box that looked kinda like a cigar box. I think that would be the better route, somebody with a handful of 18650’s in a case with temp control and a regular decent iron.

The affordable battery powered ones all have mediocre reviews, the butane ones are much better but no temp control, hence this anon >>1553481

>> No.1553515

>cordless best
>battery best
Literally TS-100 hooked up to a car battery

>> No.1553534

That's an e-cig battery, what gives?

Cordless soldering irons tend to be varying levels of shit, and shouldn't be used unless they are the last resort, and even then I would opt for butane over battery.

The Dremel Versa-Tip (I think it's called) is a modestly priced and decent quality butane unit.

>> No.1553537

TS100 hooked up to a 5S pack, laptop charger, car, literally any fucking thing with a 5525 plug and 12-24v

>> No.1553729

i do a/v installation, we often do soldering in rooms that don't have power yet, or just in an area where there's no outlet around

>> No.1553748

Shhhheeeeeit I forgot those things hook up to fucking whatever. You could totally rig something up to run it off whatever 18V power tool battery pack you’re using on your impact driver. And if no power tools, go grab a Kobalt or HF Bauer battery and charger.

>> No.1553749

I'm sorta interested in getting one that would work offshore on boats - either battery, butane, or 12v powered. Never bought one because I haven't heard great things. Does anything hold a candle to a normal iron + inverter?

>> No.1553752
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Pic related is shilled so much, that’s probably the best compromise if you do what this goy said >>1553537

>> No.1553916
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Literally made this with a Makita. 18v USB adapter. Work on robotic sailboats, often no power on docks.

>> No.1554014

I took a chance on one of these to use from my car and it's a lot more effective than I expected at 12-14V.

>> No.1554017

weller portasol p1k

catalytic, butane

things a champ

dude thats cool as fuck

can you give some more details

>> No.1554019


oh i thought you made the whole thing not just put a battery on it

still neat though

>> No.1554806

lol enjoy your hand grenade

>> No.1555512
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Used one of these commercially for 20 years before it died.

>> No.1555589

If /diy/ and /ohm/ taught me anything, it’s that the voltage doesn’t really matter. Go to the drill thread and look at the senile old fucks who are like “I’ll never buy a cordless drill! My 1984 B&D runs on 120V of pure Tesla and you kids think your 18 Edisons can keep up? I’m not waiting until lunchtime for my drill to charge!”

Dudes are running leaf blowers and compressors off 18V packs these days. 1A @ 120V is the same power as the motor pulling 6-7A @18V. Good 18650s are capable of putting out some watts and soldering irons like that really don’t use that much power.

>> No.1556848

I've run hakko smd systems off camping battery inverters. Most gear doesnt care about square wave output. I think the boss brought in something like a 'zero goal' or some weird name camping thing basically a plastic box with a battery and a large inverter and 110 volt outlet. Kinda fun and cool.

>> No.1556854
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I built this soldering iron. It uses Hako tips.

>> No.1557325
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>there was some other anon who built one in a wooden box that looked kinda like a cigar box.
oh geez that's me.
it has 4-series 4000mAh 26650 cells, they'll power this TS100 for several hours continuously. it's way overkill, it could be a lot smaller. but not quite pencil-small, a battery that small just can't last long enough to really be useful. When I need it in my pocket I use butane.

>> No.1557328

That thing is dope.

Do you have a parts list or something? What all is inside of the box besides the 4 cells?

>> No.1557331

It's got a balancing circuit (8-cell one because it's all I had on hand at the time), a generic 4s protection circuit, a CC/CV buck converter for charging (through a diode otherwise it self-discharges a bit), it charges from any 24v brick that could also run the TS100 on its own.
Not much else. it doesn't need any regulation. there's a TL431 driving that voltmeter so that the scale goes from 4.2 volts to 2.5v.
and it's hard to see from this angle but under the spring holder there's a brass sponge. No real parts list, just made out of mismatched shit most of which I already had.
It works out pretty good, I keep it in the backpack and I have it ready to go whenever I need it. I didn't even need to recharge it for the first time until after I'd been using it a month.

>> No.1557342

>Work on robotic sailboats
I'm going to need more information on that profession, sir.

>> No.1557369

TS80 + off-the-shelf power bank is probably the best option right now. Under $150 and it's more quality than most professional setups.

>> No.1557379
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This is what I use, so goddamn useful.

>> No.1557419

>butane will get you corded performance for cheap
It gets your coded heat, not corded performance.

>> No.1557429

Anon this might be your best bet, if you have access to a public library with a 3d printer.


>> No.1557434


i just use a ts100

>> No.1557437

Well, I guess I didnt account that you have a milwaukee battery or not. Whatever.

>> No.1557445

So what is the price difference with the ts150 vs ts80 about? Temperature range?

>> No.1557447

you mean ts100? I don't have an 80, just a 100. Looks to me like the 80 allows you to charge via USBC. On the TS100, that micro usb port is not for charging, just for upgrading firmware if you're so inclined.

>> No.1557448


>> No.1558105

Ts100 has custom firmware support. Not sure on the ts80.
I bought one mainly for lulz to say my soldering iron runs custom modified firmware, but it actually turned out to be really nice

>> No.1558111
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Like first think the dude says is to be careful not to over discharge the battery pack. I’m confused, isn’t the protection built into the battery pack?

>> No.1558131

The dude properly doesn't know the red lithiums have discharge protection in them now..

>> No.1558134

>Copper piping
No problem
>BGA rework
No problem
>Heavy gauge wiring

>> No.1558751

>1A @ 120V is the same power as the motor pulling 6-7A @18V.
Yeah but the TS-100 won't pull twice the current when it's running from 12 volts instead of 24, it's gonna pull half the current because the resistance of the heating element stays the same.

>> No.1558758

recently got the TS100. it's nice. heard the TS80 is better but it's more expensive and getting a good tip is hard because there are barely any replacement tips available. though the tips now have a TRS connector so you can finally "hotswap" them.
will be getting a TS80 in one or two years when the eco system has caught up

>> No.1558760

oh nvm, ignored the "cordless". no idea about that. I guess you could tape a 12V lipo to your TS100 :3

>> No.1558803

>heard the TS80 is better
Why is it better? It uses similar technology but is lower power, so one would think it's inferior, unless you're specifically looking for something that can be powered from something like a power bank.

>> No.1558881

>Yeah but the TS-100 won't pull twice the current when it's running from 12 volts instead of 24
you're right, but it will actually pull a little bit more current when idle at 12 volts because it needs a constant power to keep the tip hot.

>> No.1559837

I recommend these to anybody on a budget stuck with a shitty pencil iron. The upgrade is made that much sweeter by the fact that they must suffer the use of their shithouse iron in order to build it.

>> No.1559839

I'm not sure I like the TRS jack for the wattage, but on the bright side you could give somebody the ol' spicy earphones.

>> No.1559843

>unless you're specifically looking for something that can be powered from something like a power bank
That's basically the whole point of it. I think I'd still prefer a butane iron for that application even though they're not temp controlled like the TS80 is. If you at least have access to a 12V battery like say off a vehicle the TS100 will outperform it in all respects.

>> No.1560152

Even your own brother?

>> No.1560285

Some professional irons have that TRS jack too. I was surprised. It seems like an inappropriate connector for power.

>> No.1561318

Lmao cordless and battery mean the same thing

>> No.1561336

what if I connect my soldering iron to a battery through a cord

checkmate atheists

>> No.1561355

Not exactly cordless but still less cordfull than corded

>> No.1561410

LULZ! That is exactly what I was thinking when I built it!

>> No.1561707
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I'm too old.

>The should of bought the diy t12 soldering iron

Men of culture

>> No.1563867

Ok I chose cordless and best

>> No.1565374
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Here you go.

>> No.1565376

Can confirm

>> No.1565712

I use a ts100 hooked up to my Milwaukee m12 or m18 battery packs, I made a custom lead that plugs into them.
I use it all the time at work, it's fucking great.
I even soldered new brushes for my Cummins starter with it, that was insanely thick copper.

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