/3DPG/

[Anonymous No.1548510]

In Memory Of Fallen Duplicate Threads Edition
Old thread: >>1542439

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy

>Need help with prints? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 7-1-2019]
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free:
https://www.blender.org/
https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/

[Anonymous No.1548522]

Is it possible for PLA to bond with PTFE?

My Monoprice printer's hotend is completely fucking jammed.
I took the nozzle off and I still couldn't get the fillament to feed or pull out.

[Anonymous No.1548524]

>>1548502
I can't say whether you should swap printers or not, but in ~50 minutes I'll have >>1548374 printed. Sometime during the print its speed dropped to 50% and I don't know why, but if I bump it back up I know it'll ruin the print completely so I'm going to leave it as is.

[Anonymous No.1548526]

Fan progress update

[Anonymous No.1548529]

[Anonymous No.1548556]

>>1548510
>that benchy

[Anonymous No.1548557]

>>1548522
it's possible that you have a bulge that's stuck in the tube

[Anonymous No.1548560]

>>1548556
Looks like it was CADded by Thunt.

[Anonymous No.1548561]

>>1548557
How do you fix that?

If it's completely fucked, then I guess I'll just go ahead with upgrading it to an e3d hotend, but It'll be a while before I can do so.

[Anonymous No.1548563]

>>1548522
try sticking it in the freezer

[Anonymous No.1548565]

>>1548560
I understand that reference.

[Anonymous No.1548566]

I have a projector thats 1024x768. Should I build a top down sla printer or buy a sparkmaker for $200
>www.amzn.com/B07GPQP1SK

[Anonymous No.1548567]

Adalinda the singing dragon, as promised.
>Completely untouched, not trimmed or cleaned
>30% scale, same as the other anon
>cheap as fuck amazonbasics filament that won't stick to the mat unless the first layer temp is 230
My potato quality camera has a way of putting all the imperfections into focus.

[Anonymous No.1548568]

>>1548566
How is the projector relevant?

[Anonymous No.1548569]

>>1548563
Oh boy, pulling the hotend assembly out is going to be fun. It's a MP Mini Delta
I'll give it a try.

[Anonymous No.1548571]

>>1548568
Because the projector is the most expensive part of building an dlp printer. Since I have it, I don't have to factor it into the cost of building one.

[Anonymous No.1548591]

3DPG discord: https://discord.gg/TtZ7Gba
Still not in the OP edition.

Anyone printed anything interesting for the super bowl?

[Anonymous No.1548602]

first for moon city

[Anonymous No.1548608]

>>1548567
.1 mm layer height
30% scale
gray ABS

Looking at this now I think my temps are too high

[Anonymous No.1548617]

>>1548591
>discord

[Anonymous No.1548624]

>>1548591
Nobody is going to use a discord, especially on a slow board. Fuck off.

[Anonymous No.1548643]

>>1548565
Fuck me, I forgot about that comic until you mentioned it. Doesn't even have OOTS's excuse about it being a stick figure comic.

[Anonymous No.1548651]

>>1548591
>Anyone printed anything interesting for the superb owl?
Yeah, Nah.

Have a Nerf instead.

[Anonymous No.1548653]

>spend an hour trying to figure out a way to use extruded cut draft to cut the kind of hole I want in SW
>finally realise that "offset from surface" is an option
>two clicks and I have the perfect hole
This software is great, but I'm not clever enough for it.

[Anonymous No.1548654]

>>1548653
That's what Youtube is for

[Anonymous No.1548655]

>>1548651
You (or your customers) ever have any issues with delamination? I feel like that's something that is going to come up eventually, particularly with parts like a pistol grip, or that foregrip, which doesn't seem to be reinforced in the Z direction.

[Anonymous No.1548656]

>>1548654
I've found lots of great stuff on Youtube, but I wouldn't even know how to phrase the kind of hole I wanted as a question to a professional CAD teacher, let alone anything that would have gotten me google results. "solidworks how to hole between two angled surfaces that doesn't cut into a third surface"?

[Anonymous No.1548657]

>>1548591
You really think a bunch of splerglords are going to chat with each other? It's already hard enough dealing with some of the autism that permits through this board.

[Anonymous No.1548659]

>>1548651
Post a pic of all the separate models you have now
I wanna see a family photo

[Anonymous No.1548660]

>>1548567
>>1548608

Is this the new benchy?

[Anonymous No.1548662]

>>1548656
I get that problem a lot. Its hard to google for something if you have no earthly idea what its called.

>>1548657
It's really chill so far, got several people on there now.

>>1548659
seconding this

[Anonymous No.1548667]

>>1548653
>>1548656
Post pic? I'm real curious what kind of hole you made

[Anonymous No.1548669]

>>1548667
The hole that connects a 26mm square to a 38mm square. I was making a fan converter.

[Anonymous No.1548670]

>>1548591
These threads are slow enough. Fuck off.

[Anonymous No.1548671]

>>1548669
>>1548667
Forgot the picture...
The hole went from the "grill" connecting against the heatsink to the front of the entire thing. I first tried using shell, then draft, but because the entire thing is weirdly angled (I want to be able to fit a circular part fan under it) I had a really hard time. Still trying to learn the software, which is why this thing is so hideous.

[Anonymous No.1548675]

>>1548653
>>1548671
The fun thing about CAD programs/3d designing is that there's always multiple ways to do something and everyone describes the process differently.

[Anonymous No.1548678]

>>1548671
>which is why this thing is so hideous.
bro that looks legit af

[Anonymous No.1548679]

>>1548678
The only thing I made is the fan mount. The actual extruder model comes from a site, the only work I did on that was assembling it in SW.

[Anonymous No.1548681]

>>1548679
still looks better than half the trash on thingiverse

[Anonymous No.1548683]

>>1548681
Ha, I'm glad you think so. I sort of agree actually, thingiverse seems crazy about everything looking organic, at least when it comes to fan mounts, I actually kind of prefer a boxy aesthetic. The only exterior rounding I plan to have on this is the bit that wraps around the heatsink, since the heatsink is already round, the zip tie tabs (I'll be printing it in PLA so I'm using zip ties to secure it around the heatsink), and the outermost part where the fan goes, since 40mm fans already have rounded corners.

[Anonymous No.1548690]

>>1548671
>>1548681
And here's the more or less finished version. Clips on to the stock E3D heatsink and can be secured with zip ties through the hoops on the back. Has a rim on the top to keep it stationary on the heat sink, did that simply because that's how most of thingiverse does it. Fits a 40mm fan, using M3 nuts and bolts (nuts fit in little sockets on the inside, so there are no external bolt holes, really proud of myself for that redesign). Does need to be printed with supports, because of the little ribs on the heatsink and maybe also because of the zip tie tabs. I'll print one out when my spare parts arrive and then put it on thingiverse, because now that I scrapped the original bolt idea I'm kind of pleased with it actually. It is very boxy though, and I have no idea how the aerodynamics simulator works so for all I know this thing might actually be worse than not having a fan at all.

[Anonymous No.1548695]

>>1548655
>You (or your customers) ever have any issues with delamination?
Yes. I recently revised the frame for that grip to print on the backside so that all the layer-lines are now at a 45-degree angle from the expected stresses. Something that worked perfectly on my other design but forgot the carry over to this one until recently.
The larger Nerf I sell uses hardware to shore up areas that are going to see the most stress. For instance the primary grips uses a threaded rod to connect its heel to the end of the stock. That prevents the print from seeing any cantilever loads.
>>1548659
>>1548662
>Post a pic of all the separate models you have now
Here are the four types offered for the Caliburn, which is powered by 11-inch length compression springs. As well as what the prototype looks like now.

The "Esper" posted prior is powered by elastic cords, so it's smaller/lighter/cheaper.

[Anonymous No.1548697]

>>1548695
I didn't mean post a sales ad, I mean throw them all on your couch or line them all up against a wall

[Anonymous No.1548701]

>>1548690
You bought solidworks premium just to design trifles like that?

[Anonymous No.1548704]

>>1548701
>bought

[Anonymous No.1548705]

>>1548695
Neat. Those look like custom magazines; are you making your own, or adapting your designs to use third-party mags?

[Anonymous No.1548725]

Ok I ordered my Anycubic Photon.

Anybody knows if Leslyzerosix models can be downloaded anywhere?
Does he even publish the models on patreon?

[Anonymous No.1548730]

>>1548244
Stoner anon here with PETG problem.
I'm using M4P PETG and it's constantly leaving globs and strings.
The globs are a problem because the nozzle bumps into them.
It's a miracle that print didn't get knocked off the build plate. The jerks went crazy once it went over 200mm, the flexbed helped compensate that a little.
I don't have this problem at all with PLA.

Could this be a filament drying problem?

[Anonymous No.1548731]

Finished my Blue Yeti pop filter.

[Anonymous No.1548735]

>>1548704
slav pirating shit, please

[Anonymous No.1548740]

>>1548725
Probably not, 3D artists don't generally release their work.

[Anonymous No.1548748]

Well ive seen dome prints on jap twitter.
Perhaps he distributes them privately or something.

[Anonymous No.1548789]

>>1548502

V-slot extrusions are not linear rails. There might be another reason to get it but it's not the rails.

>>1548591

Visit the #reprap IRC channel on freenode my dudes

[Anonymous No.1548797]

Anybody else use a Bondtech/BMG dual drive extruder or one of their knockoffs? Do I need to recalibrate E-steps for my new chinkshit model?

Also, how do I purposefully sabotage a mate's already running print?

[Anonymous No.1548804]

>>1548730
Isn't this gonna give you cancer?

[Anonymous No.1548810]

>>1548804
how/why?

[Anonymous No.1548827]

>>1548804
We already discussed this last thread; the #420blazeit neurons have already overridden anon's common sense and he doesn't care. Luckily, it's probably no worse than DIYing a bong out of a 2 liter soda bottle until it comes time to clean it (which he will realize is impossible due to bacteria trapped in between the layer grooves).

[Anonymous No.1548832]

>>1548567
God damn seeing this shit is making my blood pressure rise. This is what an ender 3 should be capable of doing at 0.04mm layer height.

[Anonymous No.1548834]

>>1548748
>>1548740

Has anybody managed to find a good model of meme man yet?

[Anonymous No.1548836]

>>1548827
Still waiting for someone to explain where the plastic health hazard should come from, besides regular smoking hazard.
I'm not smoking or heating up the plastic.

I also don't see how this should be worse than normal commercial plastic bongs.

>bacteria trapped in between
What are you even talking about? Evil bong bacteria is some hollywood shit. Do you desinfect a glass everytime before you drink from it?
I don't plan to keep water in there until it molds.

You vapefags have no clue about bongs.

[Anonymous No.1548850]

>>1548697
>I mean throw them all on your couch or line them all up against a wall
I don't have a collection of them just sitting around. Most of the photos I have are outgoing orders. The carbine is the only fully-printed one I have onhand, the machined one is the only other one I've kept for personal use. And I had an Esper sitting around but a coworker bought it off me.
>>1548705
You can buy all kinds of aftermarket magazines and I've modified my design to accept all of them. I don't bother stocking them for sale, so most of the ones I have are just for measuring and checking fit.

[Anonymous No.1548856]

>>1548566
what projection technology?

[Anonymous No.1548858]

>>1548730

More likely you need to reduce your extruders steps because PETG is softer and sinks into the extruder wheel teeth.

This can result in over-extrusion which leaves blobs and lots of stringing.

[Anonymous No.1548880]

I'm going to lose it.

>attempted to print my first 3D benchy
>beginning extrusion always curls on itself and sticks to the side of the nozzle forming a loop.
>add a skirt b/c the extrusion didn't start clean
>helped but didn't solve problem
>then filament drive gear is slipping and can't feed extruder. However there is no issue running it in reverse to remove filament.
Pic related is what I pulled out, which I probably did incorrectly.

Also, please correct me if I used the wrong terminology. Thanks

[Anonymous No.1548881]

>>1548858
The feed rate wount change, no matter how deep the teeth are gripping.
>what is classical mechanics?

I already decreased the flow but ended up with layer adheison problems.

>>1548880
What temperature are you running? Is your nozzle clogged?
What happens when you feed by hand through the hot extruder?

[Anonymous No.1548886]

>>1548566
>1024x768

Don't bother. You're either going to be making very voxelized prints that look rougher than FDM, or penny-sized ones with good quality.

Say if you want to match the 510ppi resolution of the anycubic photon, you would need to focus your 1024x768 image onto an area the size of a 2.5'' screen

[Anonymous No.1548892]

>>1548832
dragon probably wasn't printed in vase mode hence the stringing although chep chuck posted retraction settings that help it greatly

[Anonymous No.1548893]

>>1548881
I'm using PLA and the temp is set at 200°C
I disengaged the drive and tried feeding by hand but nothing came out.

I'm wondering if I installed the nozzle wrong but I didn't do anything different.

[Anonymous No.1548897]

>>1548832
If you're willing to part with the printer profile and the STL to get that ring at that quality I'll try it, as long as it's not the 99999 layer top meme settings that you find on Reddit.
Every print is different and requires different settings. You see that pic, but not the failed prints that led up to it. I did exactly one Adalinda and just guessed at the settings, if I made 2 or 3 more I could make it look a hell of a lot nicer, but I'm not going to because I don't really care about a singing dragon figure.

[Anonymous No.1548903]

>>1548893
Your nozzle is clogged.
Heat it to 200°C and poke a needle in from below.
Feeding by hand should be fairly easy

[Anonymous No.1548916]

>>1548903
Mfw I have no needle. I just got this thing. Do you think a sewing needle/pin would work? It's a .04 nozzle.
Thanks for all your help anon.

[Anonymous No.1548920]

>>1548893
Teflon lined throat? I've had them break down and start to melt despite the fact that they're supposed to be good up until @ 240ish (this might or might not have had something to do with a bad thermistor, mind you).
>>1548916
I wouldn't do that; they sell 0.4 drill bits to clean them, I personally consider nozzles expendable and just replace them on the rare occasion I get a clog.

[Anonymous No.1548938]

>>1548916
I just mash a wire brush against the nozzle a bunch of times and then do a cold pull

[Anonymous No.1548949]

>>1548920
Yeah, teflon. I'll check it out.
>>1548938
I've been using a brass wire brush to no avail.

[Anonymous No.1548951]

>>1548920
>I personally consider nozzles expendable and just replace them on the rare occasion I get a clog.
I do this too. Would recommend to anyone.

[Anonymous No.1548978]

>>1548730
>nobody said this yet
DUDE

[Anonymous No.1548987]

>>1548978
I don't think it particularly needed to be said.
>dude PETG lmao

[Anonymous No.1548993]

>>1548834
https://sketchfab.com/models/3d1f49bc7e6e446fb0d97e98cd40e749

[Anonymous No.1548994]

what's the point of different size nozzles? is it just bandwidth? can i get better quality but slower prints by switching from 0.4 to 0.2?

[Anonymous No.1549012]

>>1548994
That about it, yes. On top of that smaller nozzles mean weaker prints, worse overhang angles, and roughly 4x the print time for double the nozzle size. .8mm nozzles are more handy than 0.2mm for this reason.

[Anonymous No.1549036]

>>1548730
>Not using hemp filament
Missed opportunity

[Anonymous No.1549044]

>>1548993

That looks like a cheap imitation and it wants me to sign up for their shit to download

[Anonymous No.1549046]

>>1548993
Poor quality model, can already tell that it won't print correctly what with the non-manifold eyes. Could be taken into blender and fixed but frankly it might be better to sculpt one from scratch.

[Anonymous No.1549075]

>always struggle with adhesion printing pla
"stick to pla anon it's the easiest"
>get a sample of petg mailed to me by a guy from a local forum
>prints perfectly first attempt, perfect adhesion
Fuck you people and your shitty sugar, my eyes have at last been opened to the right and true Light of Salvation and Its name is Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol.

[Anonymous No.1549078]

PETG is flexible, right?
I have a bowden extruder, which I've heard can't print flex.
Can I print PETG or is it too flexy?

[Anonymous No.1549079]

Can I use these to build a 3d printer or are they too weak.

[Anonymous No.1549081]

>>1548834
Why don't you do it yourself?
It is not supposed to be good anyway. So ,just do it.

[Anonymous No.1549083]

>>1549079
people used linear rails like those for years until people realized that smooth rods and bushings was cheaper, and then aluminum extrusion with v-slot rollers was even cheaper.

Yeah, you can, but why would you when you can do it a lot cheaper with other methods? It's not like you need to move a lot of weight like a CNC machine does.

[Anonymous No.1549085]

>>1548834
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2618802

[Anonymous No.1549087]

>>1549078

It's not *that* flexible... try flexing a coke bottle cap.

>>1549083

What are y'all's favorite linear motion methods and why? I'm a rods man - they're cheap enough and have many mounting options, you can even use printed bearings them.

[Anonymous No.1549097]

>>1549075
PETG is great for it's adhesion!
Right until it isn't!
Support structures made of PETG are the absolute worst. I get PLA supports to pop off without any scarring or breakage, I have to basically cut PETG supports free from the surface.

[Anonymous No.1549102]

>>1549097
Not a problem, I've been into building models for years, I have half a dozen knives that are great for removing that stuff.

[Anonymous No.1549126]

Im wondering where can i get the rest of this kit:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-Printer-Accessories-Ceramic-Mud-Powder-Extruder-Micro-Screw-8MM-Throat-Feed-Rod-Feed-Rod/32967974777.html

Ideas?

[Anonymous No.1549134]

>>1548524
What cool thing should I print that prints as one piece and has moving parts?

[Anonymous No.1549140]

>>1549134
that faggy nasa wrench

[Anonymous No.1549154]

Would it be possible to do some basic microfluidics with hobbyl level SLA?
Ive been looking at papers for 2 hours now but none of them seem to tell anything about the dimensions or the actual topology of a construction.

[Anonymous No.1549167]

>>1549134
That weird ass Chinese armadillo.

[Anonymous No.1549168]

>>1549167
link?

[Anonymous No.1549171]

>>1549168
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2064359

[Anonymous No.1549184]

>>1549171
thanks

[Anonymous No.1549241]

>>1548994

[Anonymous No.1549244]

>>1549079
>too weak
You know there's a billion different sizes of these, right? How is anyone supposed to figure out which you mean by a cropped image with no size reference?

[Anonymous No.1549247]

>>1549171
>humans are the murderers of this disaster
I wonder how many extinction events or other general bad things happening to/on Earth right now can be directly attributed to the Chinese?

[Anonymous No.1549301]

>>1549078
>PETG flexible
Not really but It's not as stiff as PLA. PETG still snaps rather quickly.

>Bowden no flex
You can print flex filaments on a bowden. A direct extruder is suited better though.

[Anonymous No.1549321]

https://www.creality3d.shop/products/creality-ender-3-3d-printer-economic-ender-diy-kits-with-resume-printing-function-v-slot-prusa-i3-220x220x250mm

Gonna buy this one, should I get it from the creality shop or does anyone know where I can get it cheaper?

[Anonymous No.1549322]

Are these things a meme or should I really build one?
I'm wondering if running my humidifier (because fuck cold dry New England winter air) might be the cause of my clogging issue that I've never had for the first few weeks I started this hobby.

[Anonymous No.1549340]

>>1549046
Printed kinda fine on my ching chong printer, if you ignore the z-seam

[Anonymous No.1549342]

>>1549321
creality3d.shop is not the official website, it's a fake one.
Use https://www.creality3donline.com/creality-ender-3-3d-printer_p0019.html or get it from the creality shop on aliexpress which is probably cheaper

[Anonymous No.1549347]

>>1549322

You should, although I don't have a proper dry box, myself. There's no desiccant in mine and it's not airtight, because I rarely use anything other than PLA. I made it mostly to keep dust out, which was a substantial problem with a big dog around. Made a cover for the feed mechanism, too, so the filament is completely covered from spool to nozzle. Used to find the nozzle clogged one or two times a week. Haven't had a clog in months, now. Very worth.

[Anonymous No.1549349]

>>1549340

For some reason it looks more accurate to the real thing as a print compared to the actual model. I guess most of the defects just get smoothed over.

[Anonymous No.1549352]

>>1549347
Thanks. I'm beginning to suspect that all my recent issues are filament related. Never had this problem when I first got the printer. Got a pic of your setup?

[Anonymous No.1549353]

>>1549321
Always check sites like gearbest, baggood, aliexpress, ebay and the other chinko places.
Shop doesn't matter of the rating is good.
If you're a eurofag, make sure to order it from German warehouse, saves you a lot of time.
I got my ender 3 for $169,90 on a Gearbest special discount.

[Anonymous No.1549357]

>>1549322
>>1549347
>be me
>be moisture molecule floating throught the air
>"oh look, delicious hygroscopic filament in the box over there!"
>"I will just go in through that lovely outlet gap for the filament"
>"But wait. Anon made this box hisself and shares pictures with his online friends. Telling them I will stay out, lol."
>"I wonder what was he thinking"
>into the filament I go

[Anonymous No.1549381]

>>1549357
Kek. They're supposed to be packed with desiccant packs to combat that. Some even have heaters made with pet reptile heaters.

[Anonymous No.1549418]

>>1549322
Or just buy an airtight dog food container and throw some dessicant in it or buy a food dehydrator.

[Anonymous No.1549423]

>>1549321

DO NOT BUY FROM www.creality3d.shop IT IS NOT THE OFFICIAL, they are a reseller pretending to be creality

[Anonymous No.1549424]

I want to print a mold of something but I don't know where to get the silicone to fill It with
Can someone help?

[Anonymous No.1549430]

>>1549423
>www.creality3d.shop
>NOT THE OFFICIAL
No shit sherlock.

[Anonymous No.1549431]

>>1549424
I personally like Smooth On's rubbers; you can buy those practically anywhere (hint: Amazon). Sort of depends on what you're casting, though.

[Anonymous No.1549441]

>>1549381
Yeah I was fantasizing about a heated metal tube section after the spool to dry it right when it unspools. If the distance is to short, one could add an extra guided loop for the filament.
Professional injection molding machines also have a drier on top for the resin.

You'd need a lot of desiccants to be effective.

[Anonymous No.1549464]

>>1549431
I'm trying to make a foot that looks and feels like a human foot
It's a long story but I need to make one for a project I'm working on in college

[Anonymous No.1549475]

>>1549464
>for a project I'm working on in college
Suuuuure...

[Anonymous No.1549480]

>>1549464
You people sicken me.

[Anonymous No.1549483]

>>1549464
Creep.

[Anonymous No.1549484]

>>1549430
nigga I didn't know that. What is the official site then?

[Anonymous No.1549486]

>>1549475
>>1549480

I can't go into much detail because our sponsors don't want us talking before release. Like 100k in sponsors. This is no little hobby robot
However I can say it's a humanoid robot
I need the silicone so I can make a silicone mold for the part
To make the silicone mold I need to 3D print it to make the mold
Then this rubber mix will be poured in that looks and feels like human skin. It's crazy
We should be done in like 3 months, we have already CNC the frame and the electronics are almost working
I'll see if I can post pictures when it's done or the news article when it's released
We're partnered with the EE team, CS, and engineering

[Anonymous No.1549488]

>>1548567
What causes stringing? This happened last time I tried to print two separate objects at the same time.

[Anonymous No.1549490]

Downloading Fusion 360 now, wish me luck.

[Anonymous No.1549491]

>>1549486
If you are into feet just admit it.

[Anonymous No.1549493]

>>1549486
3d printing a mold seems ass backwards for this use case; why not find an appropriately sized foot (attached or not), make an alginate mold, then cast from that? Ten times as quick, assuming you have the feet.

[Anonymous No.1549494]

I want to print a rear wiper arm for my car because a new one costs around 150$.
What is a good material that can withstand the harsh outdoor conditions? The part may heat up to 40C or more during summer so I don't want it melting.

[Anonymous No.1549495]

>>1549494
ABS or PETG should do you fine, they're strong materials. PLA is really the only one you need to avoid.

[Anonymous No.1549501]

>>1549486

Cool story ;) You might find this informative:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SKj3wlpYx8E

[Anonymous No.1549505]

This ended up being too small, and I'm out of black PETG.

Fuck.

[Anonymous No.1549516]

>>1549505
das cool man

[Anonymous No.1549526]

>>1549505
Nice design

[Anonymous No.1549529]

>>1549516
>>1549526
Not mine, just scaled and cut verson of this.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:455885

[Anonymous No.1549531]

>>1549493
The place that was going to make the mold for us is having some problems and they are holding us back
I was hoping to free up the build by getting it done on my printer and then making the silicone mold from that
The feet have already been designed to fit the skeleton and fluid tubes
I don't want to pour the actual rubber stuff into the 3D printed mold because the team might want to smooth out the ridges that it might leave on the silicone and I'm afraid PLA might be too sticky for the rubber

Any advice is appreciated

[Anonymous No.1549538]

>>1549531
Well, I wouldn't worry about the rubber sticking to the plastic; silicones generally only bond with themselves. The layer lines are a concern; smoothing the insides with resin would probably be your best bet.

[Anonymous No.1549549]

>>1549538
I never thought about smoothing with resin
If I can get the ridges down we could probably just use the 3D print and not have to make a silicone mold.

is there a specific brand that you would recommend? This should speed up production so much holy shit.

[Anonymous No.1549551]

>>1549549
Not to shill smooth on again, but they do sell a paint on resin specifically for doing that (not that I've used it):
https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/xtc-3d/
If you're not too worried about it looking like plastic, I'd personally just hit it with some spot putty and sand til smooth, then paint it.

[Anonymous No.1549555]

>>1549342
>>1549423
oh shit, didn't know it wasn't the official one, thanks!

[Anonymous No.1549557]

>>1549551
I don't care really about how the mold looks, I need it to make the foot with some special rubber compound. If the foot works I am probably going to print out molds for everything else.
Basically we're making a robot that has a working warm blood/liquid mixture circulatory system that warms it to body temperature. It is supposed to also move around and do human like things (like move it's hands to shake someone's hand, identify familiar faces, sense temperature change, etc.)
I just can't elaborate on the exact specifics on how we're building it (like sensors used, code, fluids, etc)

[Anonymous No.1549560]

>>1549557
You don't need to make up some impossible robot, anon. Just admit that you want to make a girl's foot to wank on.

[Anonymous No.1549561]

>>1549551
I bought that, saw a load of cancer symbols on the bottle and chickened out.

[Anonymous No.1549620]

>want to print specific figure
>find design I like
>it requires glue? fuck that
>use a 3d modeler to replace 1 piece parts with snap in ball joints, weld meshes, and add any kind of appropriate joint so I don't have to glue anything.
>every time I think I'm ready I go through another design phase to remove any potential issues or make it easier to print
It's been three days /diy/. I shouldn't be this autistic over what amounts to a glorified doll - one I haven't even tried printing yet.

[Anonymous No.1549625]

>>1549353
How secure is baggood? Never ordered from there, might do it and save 30 USD instead of ordering from gearbest

[Anonymous No.1549633]

>>1549625
You could ask /csg/ on /g/ about it, otherwise if you don't receive or get fucked over you can contest the sale through Paypal and get your money back.
I wouldn't give a chink seller a credit card number though. No way.

[Anonymous No.1549644]

>>1549625

They do a lot of fake discounts for the desirable products where they present the normal price as some special offer. You can see some chink trickery in your pic - you're not really saving shit because 190-199 is always the normal price, but they made it 179$+10.75$ shipping. Gearbest's offer is worse than normal because these things have never been 243.41$ and shipping is 21$.

Otherwise banggood delivers, and in my experience they always pull some sort of customs voodoo because i've never needed to pay customs fees for items where you'd normally expect it (im in europe). From the screenshot i see they have a US warehouse.

[Anonymous No.1549652]

>>1549644
>pull some sort of customs voodoo
What they do is write "gift" instead of "3d printer" in the customs declaration and a value below ten dollars. It's a "service" any decent chink seller will do you if you just ask them in a PM. I've only ever had one refuse, and he was Indian.

[Anonymous No.1549655]

>>1549652

I know about that, but it's the oldest trick in the book and customs has already wised up to it here. If they they see a tasty-looking package marked as "gift" they will request bank transfer details or a paypal invoice, and a link to the website where you purchased it from.

[Anonymous No.1549659]

>>1549655
>If they they see a tasty-looking package marked as "gift" they will request bank transfer details or a paypal invoice, and a link to the website where you purchased it from.
Couldn't you just say "I don't have those things because it's a gift"?

[Anonymous No.1549672]

>>1549659
"Han-chen Buijong Heavy Industries sent you a gift? What's your relation to them?"

[Anonymous No.1549675]

>>1549644
>customs voodoo
Chances are they have a warehouse in Europe. If you buy something small they ship directly from there, and if it's something big they ship to their warehouse and then on to you. Usually the warehouses are somewhere with easy to bypass customs, like Latvia or Belgium or something.

[Anonymous No.1549676]

>>1549672
>it's personal

[Anonymous No.1549678]

>>1549676
"Alright, if you don't explain it we'll just ship it back to them and ask that they include this information with their next attempt."

[Anonymous No.1549695]

>>1549678
yeah, nah

[Anonymous No.1549724]

Note to those who do more than just print things off thingiverse:
>Cut out your attachment points and print them out individually before blowing 90 minutes and a lot of filament on a part you can't use.
>Document how you're printing things and they turn out.
>If you change settings, make note of it.
>A warped bed sucks.

[Anonymous No.1549725]

>>1549724
Forgot pic related.

[Anonymous No.1549732]

>>1549625
I've spent like $1k+ on drone stuff and misc junk from them, never had a problem. If something is for sale, treat that as the list price. Shipping is slow though (USA).

[Anonymous No.1549774]

>>1549625
I'm in Canada, they have delivered everything I've ordered but it has always taken months and the box looked comically destroyed. I cant under state how bad that box was.

[Anonymous No.1549820]

>>1549340
very cool and good
Nice and COOL
very COOL

Very nice and GOOD

[Anonymous No.1549824]

>>1549551
I've never used XTC3D but it seems like a meme, just go to Home Depot and they have transparent 2-part epoxy resin typically used for stuff like coating countertops for like $20. I have used the cheaper resin and it smooths print lines just as well as any XTC video I've seen.

If I'm wrong, someone should tell me, I've always wanted to try XTC3D but the above point has always stopped me.

[Anonymous No.1549843]

>>1548880
Check the screws on your extruder gear. Mine shipped completely loose.

[Anonymous No.1549876]

>>1549625
Ordered my ardoino uno there, got a clone instead. It was enveloped in some kind of packaging plastic foil and the pins were sticking out of it. Still worked though

[Anonymous No.1549901]

>>1549876
When you pay $5 for an arduino, you'll of course get a clone.
A genuine is like $20 and made in italy

[Anonymous No.1549923]

>>1549620
KISS
Keep it simple, stupid.
Teacher taught me that in year 9 Design + Technology class and I've never forgotten.

[Anonymous No.1549925]

>>1549672
Kek

[Anonymous No.1549939]

>>1549923
That introduced a new question anon. Does simple imply "simplistic blocks that glue together" or "more complex blocks that snap together"? Because both introduce complexity in construction. I'm choosing the latter path because I don't want the model to require anything but the parts printed. I've finished the first mockup and have been doing a few test prints to see how well parts snap together. When it's finished to the point that it holds itself together and none of the parts require any special attention beyond "use supports" or "use a brim" I'll put it on thingiverse and gib link.

[Anonymous No.1549954]

>>1549939
glue is simpler, when you have to snap parts together you need to account for tolerances

[Anonymous No.1549976]

Can I print a gf?
Or something that'll feel like a gf when I put my penis in it?

[Anonymous No.1549996]

>>1549976
Print vagina mould, pour in silicone, cut hole, have fun.
if you want something to love, maybe an anime girl figurine from Thingiverse.

[Anonymous No.1550003]

Someone asked me last thread how does infill affect max RPM until failure, I've redone the calculations and it is now telling me that low infill is better. Looks like I didn't input the numbers correctly first time. This is counterintuitive but it makes sense if you think about it; less mass is spinning meaning less centripetal force so even though the print is weaker it's under less stress. Sucks that I goofed up the numbers because I've spent a week printing 50% infill parts...

[Anonymous No.1550073]

>>1549824
Yeah, I'd imagine the only thing that might be special about the stuff is going on thin while still being able to harden; if the counter top epoxy does that then that's good to know. Fiberglass resin would probably give good results too.

[Anonymous No.1550117]

>>1549954
Glue also requires glue, which an anon printing a design is not guaranteed to have. Lucky for you I'm using an existing design and modifying it, so by thingiverse standards it's a remix and will have the original linked to it.

[Anonymous No.1550134]

It is complete.

[Anonymous No.1550142]

>>1548510
H-Hello /3dpg/ should i buy Creality Ender 3 with Temperated glass bed or Ender 3 Pro?

[Anonymous No.1550145]

Place your bets as to whether it will work or not, I knocked in a threaded insert and screwed a grub screw so I can easily connect a 15kW inrunner. I'll order that in at the end of the month. Some guys on Youtube tried to 3D print a giant fan, one produced no thrust and the other one blew up so I'm hoping I do better than that.

[Anonymous No.1550146]

>>1550142
I swear this question gets asked all the time. Ender 3 pro isn't worth the extra money apparently.

[Anonymous No.1550147]

>>1550145
Ten bucks on losing an eye to a loose fin.

[Anonymous No.1550151]

>>1550142
>>1550146
It isn't. Get an Ender 3 and a glass bed. You can use 3d printed parts to fix some of the small issues the Ender 3 has

[Anonymous No.1550152]

>>1550145
This thing will be super weak. You printed the prop blades standing up, which means the axis they need to be strongest in is now their weakest one. Prints are strongest when you can make as large areas as possible out of a single long extrusion. You should have printed the blades laying flat.

[Anonymous No.1550155]

>>1550146
>>1550151
You sure? because it is only 17$ more

[Anonymous No.1550157]

>>1550147
I'll be wearing goggles and hiding behind sandbags.
>>1550152
I did print them flat.

[Anonymous No.1550158]

>>1550155
You can use those 17 dollars to get more useful parts than what the ender 3 pro ships with

[Anonymous No.1550159]

>>1550151
>>1550146
>>1550158
thank you very much

[Anonymous No.1550186]

>>1550073
Thin coats harden just as well as thick coats as long as you mix the two parts together very very thoroughly.

[Anonymous No.1550208]

>>1550134
>>1550145

Remember to take pics and post from the emergency room when it explodes and impales you.

[Anonymous No.1550216]

Should I get a Photon or Form 2 or some other resin printer?

[Anonymous No.1550224]

>>1550155
If you can get an Ender3X instead of a pro it's a better deal. But like the other anon said, neither offer enough benefit over the stock Ender 3 to justify the price. Get the stock Ender 3, spend the different on a roll of PLA, and print yourself some upgrades.

[Anonymous No.1550227]

>>1550208
Why be hateful?

[Anonymous No.1550231]

>>1550227
If it's a glorified desk fan you might be all right. If it's a propeller or in any application where you are seeing some serious power put to it your fan will fail and violently so.

[Anonymous No.1550240]

>>1550231
I have done the math on this, it's predicted to fail at 7900 RPM whereas max operating speed is predicted to be 6900 RPM.

[Anonymous No.1550245]

>>1550240
That might be true if it were injection moulded, but extruded plastic is nowhere near as strong.

[Anonymous No.1550247]

>>1550240
You glued individual blade sections together into a polygonal circle. >>1548529 I don't need any math to predict that it will eject missiles at you when you apply power to it.

[Anonymous No.1550251]

>>1550245
Of course I used numbers for extruded plastic yield strength, not injection moulded
https://my3dmatter.com/influence-infill-layer-height-pattern/
I get where you're coming from, the common wisdom is that 3D printed fans can't be done but I found there's a little "window" where it could work and that's why I'm doing this, because I want to see if it can be done.

[Anonymous No.1550252]

>>1550247
The glue is a cause for concern yes, I don't know what the yield strength of PLA-cyanoacrylate bonds are but solvent welding it was too dangerous and I am not skilled at heat/friction welding. The good news is that join is not the location of maximum stress so it's still anybody's guess.

[Anonymous No.1550256]

>>1550247
Also I don't know why people are saying it's gonna kill me, I did clearly state that it's gonna be powered up from behind sandbags.

[Anonymous No.1550285]

>>1550152
Confirmed for being noprinter

[Anonymous No.1550302]

>>1550251
>I get where you're coming from, the common wisdom is that 3D printed fans can't be done

They can most certainly be done if printed and assembled correctly or in a single piece, but not the way you've done it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZBzRZqi4gg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-6ikMRXNs9s

[Anonymous No.1550328]

>>1550302
In the first video he did a worse job than me, he printed the blades standing up, I'm surprised it survived but then again it's a 1000 RPM drill. In the second video he printed the blades in the same way I did, the only difference is he slotted them into he hub rather than glued them on. if mine pops at the glued joint I can do that sure, not a problem but as I said the max stress isn't there so glue is worth a try. His propeller survived 8k RPM which backs up what I said that mine is predicted to survive 7k RPM.

[Anonymous No.1550342]

>>1550302
You are right the glue was a bad move, I finally found some values for cyanoacrylate strength but for ABS and applying these numbers the joint is predicted to fail at 4k RPM. Not accurate because not PLA values but I think I should do something about that joint just in case. Perhaps friction weld around the edges? In my defence this was originally designed to be made from ABS and solvent welded but I got a new printer which lacked an enclosure so I was iffy about printing ABS on it and it came with free PLA anyway.

[Anonymous No.1550348]

>>1549824
Good to know resin works. Been meaning to try it

[Anonymous No.1550381]

>>1550342
Why didn't you just socket it? You could have made a two piece hub that bolts together around the propeller blades. Wouldn't have been any extra work, but far sturdier.

[Anonymous No.1550393]

>>1550302
>All that work to make a fan and then you point it top down at a kettle grill.
OK...

[Anonymous No.1550538]

>>1550381
My old printer had terrible tolerances so I've always been wary of designing anything that is supposed to snap together.

[Anonymous No.1550595]

Hi Anons,
I have an Anet A8 from ~2016, that I recently donated to my hackerspace.
It's got a few problems, warped bed, being a fucking Anet A8, and am going through the list of things needed to get it back in shape.
I was wondering if it's possible to "Upgrade" it to a Prusa i3, specifically the electronics.
I'd be after the control board, interface board, bed and induction probe.
All the rest I would use from what I already have, and just modify the configs.
I can't find any of these parts on the Prusa store, and was wondering if they're available elsewhere, either officially or as clones.
I don't want a "Clone" that's basically re-designing the parts as "Good enough", I'd want things made from the original PCB designs.
Thanks for the help, I'm just trying to turn the space's second best 3D printer into something decent.
(We have a TAZ, but other than that we have at least 5 other printers broken/in disrepair)

[Anonymous No.1550597]

>>1550595
I dont know about you but I'd never invest countless hours into a shit machine like this when the genuine i3 MK3 is only $800.

What you said would be a neat project to do but not practical when you consider time vs. money.

[Anonymous No.1550615]

>>1550595
Doesn't the Prusa i3 just use a common Mega + RAMPS?
The A8 uses a chinky combined Mega+RAMPS board.

There should be no problem with "upgrading" it.
Even replacing it with a completely different controller is pretty easy.

But if the old board still works - what's the point?

[Anonymous No.1550625]

>>1550597
For $200 it'd be tempting.
Else, it just gets junked for parts like the other printers we have.
>>1550615
This thing has a criminally low amount of memory, and I'd like to run the original firmware, with fine pot-controlled hight adjustment.

Anyway, looks like people do make complete clone kits, so that's something
My space has a criminally large stockpile of aluminium extrusion, so it's not really worth buying complete kits for anything, when half the cost is sunk into the frame.

[Anonymous No.1550630]

>>1550615
Wrong. The MK3 has a new board with Trinamic TMC2130drivers, extremely quiet.

[Anonymous No.1550634]

>>1550630
Ah, it's an Einsy RAMbo.
120$ and still Mega 2560 based?

Aren't you better off with a Duet3D at that point?
It uses Trinamic drivers too.

[Anonymous No.1550654]

>>1550634

And better ones as that, the TMC2660s in the Duet can handle 2.8A of phase current compared to the 1.4A of the TMC2130's.

However for >>1550595 case, a Duet is overkill unless they want to do fancy stuff like printing over wifi or having multiple extruders. I'm with >>1550615 in that upgrading the electronics doesn't make a whole lot of sense other than having quieter drivers. If you upload the latest Marlin on there you should be able to hook up and configure a BLtouch with a few of the header pins if a bed probe is required.

If i had 200$ to spend on making the thing decent i'd get an "aluminium extrusion kit" to make the frame rigid, like this one:

http://www.ratrig.com/am8-3d-printer-extrusion-profile-metal-frame-full-kit-for-anet-a8-upgrade.html

[Anonymous No.1550716]

>>1548730
>>1548858
Ok I found the source of this crazy PETG fuzzing and globbing, pic related.
Its not just regular stringing, there are hairs where the nozzle didn't even go.

I tried new white PETG and this doesn't have this issue at all and prints perfectly fine.
So my filament was wet or anything else was wrong with it.

Make sure to dry everything that is not PLA, kids!

[Anonymous No.1550755]

>>1550595
Cheap printer from 2019 > Expensive printer from 2016
For the same money you could just buy a complete Creality Meme 3. Flash the firmware and include manual mesh leveling to compensate for the inevitable warped bed and it'll probably outperform your Anet.

[Anonymous No.1550815]

Anyone know where I can get the build plate brackets for the ender 2? I need 2 more to make an extended bed.

[Anonymous No.1550837]

>>1550815
https://www.amzn.com/B0761TLRNY

Those?

[Anonymous No.1550871]

>>1550837
Not those, the actual carriage bracket you put them in to hold the plate down.

[Anonymous No.1550905]

>>1550815
What the hell are you talking about, your picture and your words are giving conflicting information. The carriage bracket is the steel plate that everything mounts to including the timing belt so how is having 2 more going to help you?

[Anonymous No.1550955]

I tried friction welding but my dremel started giving off flashes so I got scared and turned it off. it's a nightmare to do anyway, rod is hard to keep straight and has to be replaced every five seconds. Lucky for me I noticed that I accidentally used diameter instead of radius in the cyanoacrylate bond strength calculation, putting in the right value and it says it will make it all the way up to 8000 RPM. Only thing is the data is for bonding ABS (1300 psi) can't find anything for PLA superglue bonds. if you still don't believe, the reason is because it's 50% infill so that's half the weight of an injection moulded part. You guys are still right that if you tried gluing on a solid part it would rip off pretty quickly.

[Anonymous No.1550977]

>>1550955
Have you tried, y'know, attaching the part and making it spin yet? In the time you've spent stressing over this you could have built a second one by now.

[Anonymous No.1550997]

>>1550977
I need to order the motor first. TP 5860.

[Anonymous No.1551073]

>>1550755
I manually leveled my Ender 3 print bed by hand and put some yellow springs on it, shit is cash as hell.

[Anonymous No.1551080]

What would cause extrusion inconsistencies?
If it's filling in a flat plane there's patches where it's underextruding.
We've replaced the motor, inspected the roller/driver, tried different filaments from different companies.
The patches seem to match up with one revolution of the motor.

[Anonymous No.1551087]

>>1551080
is the bed level?

[Anonymous No.1551089]

>>1551087
The bed's level, the patches are never in the same spot or towards one corner.

[Anonymous No.1551090]

>>1551080
>>1551087
>>1551089
>The patches seem to match up with one revolution of the motor.
not sure but
>is the bed level?
I had this issue and the bed was warped really badly

[Anonymous No.1551124]

>>1551090
You can see defined patches in a 20x20mm area. Seems too small to be bed warping.

[Anonymous No.1551126]

>>1551124
clean your hobbed bolt (or extruder drive gear) with a wire brush?

[Anonymous No.1551142]

>>1551124
Increase nozzle temperature; extrusion can't keep up with print speed because of viscosity.... or something.

[Anonymous No.1551159]

>>1551073
What benefit do you get from different springs?

[Anonymous No.1551185]

>>1551159
the ones that come with the ender 3 are bad and loosen quickly so you're constantly re-leveling

[Anonymous No.1551197]

>>1551185
You mean you put thighter ones in there?
I think relevellng on the ender isn't a spring tesion problem. Mine are stiff enough as far as I can tell

[Anonymous No.1551261]

>>1551159
They are yellow.

[Anonymous No.1551363]

God I hope this was worth it. It was hard enough re-configuring and trying to tram out my POS mill for this task.

[Anonymous No.1551367]

>>1551363
if you ever get a machine that you can fit one on it, a Pierson mini pallet system is the best $1000 i've spent on something machine related in the last 6 months.

and oof, those tool marks.

[Anonymous No.1551377]

>>1551363
Peak autism.
When you mill off on complete face of a metal body, it will warp on its on because you shift tensions inside the material.
Just jently hammer it flat.

[Anonymous No.1551385]

>>1551377
there are plenty of ways to do it, taking skim passes across the top is one of those ways...

>>1551363
Any chance you're near southern IL? I could surface grind a flat sheet for you.

[Anonymous No.1551390]

>>1551363
Did you have the bed heated while you did that?

[Anonymous No.1551401]

What are some good YouTube videos/channels?
I'm getting super frustrated after replacing the nozzle, bowden tube, using a brass brush to clean the threads and surfaces of the heater block etc and the extrusion is still garbage even after a generous skirt.
I'm sure I'm missing something obvious.

[Anonymous No.1551402]

Can 3d printing cure depression?

[Anonymous No.1551406]

>>1551385
>Any chance you're near southern IL? I could surface grind a flat sheet for you.
Thanks m8 but I'm in maple syrup land.

>>1551390
Lol.

>>1551401
What problem are you having exactly?

[Anonymous No.1551407]

>>1551402
Yes, my fan project keeps me going through the dark times.

[Anonymous No.1551416]

>>1551406
>What problem are you having exactly?

The first layer is terrible. Even after I print the skirt, the skirt itself is bad enough to interfere with the print. Also when the nozzle moves to a separate section it will pull a small string along from where it just was. Everything just clashes with everything else. When I first got the printer I was able to knock out print after print, no problems at all.
Give me a few minutes and I'll try to get some pictures.

[Anonymous No.1551425]

>>1551416
have you tried increasing the nozzle temperature?

[Anonymous No.1551429]

>>1551407
I'm glad, anon.

[Anonymous No.1551433]

>>1551425
I did when I was just feeding filament through to see how it behaved but not in a print. Btw, I haven't changed my spool. Dumb question but is print temp set in the slicer or can I manually set it? I always thought the machine was told what temp to print at.

[Anonymous No.1551441]

I ordered a 5015 fan for a part cooler, and because the seller had accidentally run out of stock he sent me two to apologise for the delay. Is it any point in having two fans blowing simultaneously, or is one fan enough? I could design a thing to attach one blower on each side of the nozzle pretty easily, but would that actually have any effect? I tested one by hooking it to a battery and it blew pretty hard on its own.

[Anonymous No.1551447]

>>1551197
Yes tighter ones. I've heard two different theories about it, though. Some say tightening them down more will keep them tight, while others say that it will warp the bed.

[Anonymous No.1551452]

>>1551425
200c nozzle 60c bed using pla
Brand new nozzle and I still have this weird loop problem where the plastic curls and sticks to the side of the nozzle.

Here is the beginning of my attempt to print the benchy boat.

[Anonymous No.1551461]

>>1551452
Your print is not sticking to the bed.......... why in the world would you think there is something wrong with your extruder instead of your print bed?

>>1551416
>When I first got the printer I was able to knock out print after print, no problems at all.

This is a symptom of a dirty / worn out build surface. They don't last forever and are are considered a consumable item that you replace. Yours doesn't look bad though so try cleaning it thoroughly with alcohol and/or put the nozzle closer to the bed.

[Anonymous No.1551463]

>>1551433
You can absolutely set temp on the fly (it's under "tune" assuming you're printing with Marlin).

[Anonymous No.1551464]

Just got my first printer. Ender 3. X switch broke while assembling, currently using a small Alan key to hit the switch when clicking auto home.
>pic related
Obviously it's not great, just wondering if the switch will greatly affect my printing or could I still manage to print a spare.

>Tldr, need new x-switch, can I print it off or do I have to find/buy another?

[Anonymous No.1551465]

>>1551433
>I always thought the machine was told what temp to print at

It is told, yes. You set the temperature in the slicer and the resulting gcode has a set temperature to xyz in the first few lines. If you pause a print and issue a "set temp" command manually it will continue printing at that new temp.

[Anonymous No.1551467]

>>1551452
>Brand new nozzle and I still have this weird loop problem where the plastic curls and sticks to the side of the nozzle.
Ehh, that's kind of normal. If the aperature of the nozzle were perfectly clean and symmetrical the plastic would drop straight down; any sort of irregularity or butt in the brass edge will cause it to curl.

[Anonymous No.1551469]

>>1551467
>butt
Burr!

[Anonymous No.1551477]

>>1551461
>Your print is not sticking to the bed.......... why in the world would you think there is something wrong with your extruder instead of your print bed?

Because I keep getting this curl that touches the nozzle size forming an ever expanding loop if you feed filament through it. I also did fine earlier today printing the base of a mini-figure.

I clean the surface with rubbing alcohol before each print and I checked nozzle distance from the surface using a piece of paper as a feeler gauge.
>>1551463
It's an Any Cubic mega if that makes a difference. I'll look closer to see if that option is available.
>>1551465
Thanks
>>1551467
Ok, good to know. Thank you as well.

Instead of bugging you anons I would be more than happy to watch how to videos you suggest. Especially something that is like a lesson plan that you progress through. Like taking a class at school.

[Anonymous No.1551489]

>>1551452
I had that problem too which I attribute to low quality PLA and chink nozzles. I solved it by cranking the temperature up to 230 for the first layer and making slightly larger brims.

[Anonymous No.1551491]

>>1551464
The switch works, it's the little metal cover that guarantees a click that broke off, right? If that's the case I'm surprised you even noticed. It should work without, I'm staring at mine right now and it'll still click even without that. Now, if the red plastic end of the stop broke off too, it's fucked and needs replacing. Can't tell from pic since there's an allen wrench in the way and your didn't orient your picture right.

[Anonymous No.1551508]

>>1551477
There are a few but this one thing they don't cover. Those videos don't cover a lot of things. For instance you'll find a dozen videos on how to level your bed relative to your nozzle - none of them mention that leveling the bed to the ground afterwards using a bubble lever will also improve your prints.
But since you ask I've been watching a few. "teaching tech" guy is pretty good about it. He's mostly an Ender 3 guy but some of it might carry over.

[Anonymous No.1551513]

>>1551491
My bad. Phone posting. Yeah, I just found the red bit now. Guessing I'll have to replace the whole circuit for the switch then? Doubt they'll sell them differently. Thanks Anon. Can't wait to actually get started printing soon

[Anonymous No.1551515]

>>1551508
>bubble lever
Funny you say that. I was using that this afternoon as well, just in case. Thanks, I'll check it out.
>>1551489
I'm wondering if my PLA went to shit over the winter. The air gets very dry here and I've been using a humidifier. I didn't know about moisture affecting pla until recently so I've never stored it in a box with desiccant.

[Anonymous No.1551519]

>>1551491
>>1551513
Update for absolutely no one interested. This is my temp fix until I get a switch.

[Anonymous No.1551523]

>>1551452
It honestly looks like your nozzle isn't close enough to the surface, you're not getting that nice 'squish' that you generally want with a first layer. How do you level your bed, friend?

That curl tends to happen pretty easily with PLA preheating, I just have gcode in my slicer profile do a purge line up and down the side of my print bed to clean off any shmutz that might be on there, aside from the few skirts/brims I do around the part itself.

[Anonymous No.1551529]

The joys of 3D printing to solve inane problems!

Wanted to create a privacy divider between me and my beau's desks, whipped out the micrometer and took a few measurements, drew out a sketch, re-drew it in Fusion360 and extruded, two fast prototypes later and voila! White board desk divider.
Protip: If you're (only) using a .4mm nozzle, don't be afraid to print at .3 layer height for simple things, it'll work and save you time!

[Anonymous No.1551531]

>>1551523
>purge line up and down the side of my print bed to clean off any shmutz that might be on there

Good idea because that "shmutz" gets in the way when it comes off in the skirt.

As for bed leveling, I use a piece of paper as a feeler gauge. I set the nozzle distance at a sight drag of the paper. I guess I could change the resistance, bringing the nozzle closer. I'm also up for any suggestions.

[Anonymous No.1551533]

>>1551531
Make sure the bed is heated, make sure it's not warped, and don't be afraid to drop the nozzle a little more.

[Anonymous No.1551534]

>>1551531
Try for a little bit more than a slight drag with a sheet of printer paper, try and get a vibration when you rub it back and forth. Do all four corners twice, about an inch to inch and a half from the corners diagonally. I also make sure that my nozzle is completely free of plastic, usually a fingernail is enough, and I level with my bed heated. Your mileage may vary, but it works for me.
I had a -lot- of problems leveling and keeping it leveled when I first started, but after enough tinkering I realized I had belt/pulley/wheel tightness/alignment issues. Never trust a machine partially assembled by the chinese to be assembled correctly.

[Anonymous No.1551539]

>>1551533
I'll see if I have a strait rule to check it.
I have been nervous of going too low and gouging the bed surface but I guess I should be fine if measured correctly.

>>1551534
>try and get a vibration when you rub it back and forth
Oh wow, that tight? I'll try it out, it makes sense because you're right, I don't think I'm getting enough squish.

If that doesn't work then I'll look into chinkshit quality control.

[Anonymous No.1551547]

>>1551539
If your bed is warped you can work around it or like an anon did a few threads back sand it down flat against a known good surface. Enabling manual mesh leveling costs nothing but time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6lnlc-Vu-A

[Anonymous No.1551548]

>>1551529
>hate wife
>use technology to solve problem
incredible. you know, they make these things called "guns" that do the same thing without requiring you to take any measurements, you can get them at walmart.

[Anonymous No.1551553]

>>1551548
Those are expensive though

[Anonymous No.1551557]

>>1551548
Ooooh ow the edge on this guy, sharp enough to pry a PETG print clean from the tackiest surface. Golf clap for the comedian.

This has nothing to do with hate, only mutual respect and understanding, keystones to a healthy relationship! :)

[Anonymous No.1551560]

>>1551557
>hate male wife (fag in dress)
>use technology to solve problem
not fooling anybody

[Anonymous No.1551587]

There is no need to fight.

Ender 3 w/ Direct Drive Mod
1.2mm layer height
Better tuning than yours

[Anonymous No.1551588]

>>1551529
Go away fag.

[Anonymous No.1551592]

>>1551587
>those synthol tits

[Anonymous No.1551593]

>>1551587
That's really cool anon.
What filament is that?

[Anonymous No.1551595]

>>1551587
>Direct Drive Mod
Why would you do this? All the before and after I've seen shows a significant increase in ringing without any improvement in print quality? Is it because of the volcano nozzle?

[Anonymous No.1551599]

>>1551595
>muh rubber printing

[Anonymous No.1551604]

>>1551547
>or like an anon did a few threads back sand it down flat against a known good surface

Still working on it btw; trying to flatten a thin flexible surface is a ridiculous endeavour.

>>1551531
>As for bed leveling, I use a piece of paper as a feeler gauge.

I wish this method didn't exist and wasn't popularized by idiots on youtube. Using paper on the 4 corners doesn't show you how warped your bed is or how close the nozzle is in the center of the bed. I would recommend you get down to eye level with the bed while shining a light from behind and see how big the gap is while moving the extruder around with your hand. By doing this I learned how to level visually for the specific print area on my warped bed.

[Anonymous No.1551608]

>>1551604
>Still working on it btw
Worse case scenario is buying a replacement bed, so by now you have nothing to lose. Keep us posted.
>I would recommend you get down to eye level with the bed while shining a light(etc)
The paper method works but like all bed leveling the more points the better. The stock bed leveling doesn't hold a candle to mesh bed leveling, but that by default isn't even enabled in most printers.

[Anonymous No.1551617]

is this normal? and if not, how do I fix it? Ender 3, hatchbox PLA at 200c and 60c, polypropylene bed

[Anonymous No.1551618]

>>1551617
It's not normal. Shorter extrusions (the borders of the infill) and slower extrusions (the walls) both look fine, so I think the issue here is that you're going too fast. Try printing it again at half speed and show what that looks like.

[Anonymous No.1551625]

>>1551618
That first layer was put down at 20mm/s, which I would think is quite slow already?

[Anonymous No.1551628]

>>1551617
Try boosting the initial layer flow a little. In Cura it's called "Initial Layer Flow". If the extruder seems to audibly snap back in a predictable fashion you've set it too high. I'd try 120% and see what happens.

[Anonymous No.1551630]

>>1551595
Reducing the bowden stress means my retraction went from 6mm to 2mm. Cleaner prints.

>>1551593
Cheapo PLA rainbow fade filament from amazon. Paid $16 for it I think on a whim. Better than I thought it'd be and every print is a slightly different pastel color.

[Anonymous No.1551636]

>>1551587
Some of those overhangs are quite impressive, tree supports?

[Anonymous No.1551646]

>>1551636
Sliced on Slic3rPE, 0.2 distance on supports. I think I had supports set to 20% auto-generated everywhere then I just blocked it on the obviously unneeded areas.

Most of the supports were needed on the hands and the hair up top.

[Anonymous No.1551658]

>>1551628
here's the bottom of just the first layer at 205c initial temp, 120% initial flow rate

[Anonymous No.1551659]

>>1551646
I'm still looking for that holy grail setting that's going to give me better overhangs. once I get into the 70ish range it all goes to hell. I tried slic3r once and it did not end well. Cura's experimental tree support seems to work just fine though.

[Anonymous No.1551660]

>>1551658
guess i've got brain problems

[Anonymous No.1551678]

>>1551660
It looks a lot better to me.
This means you have one of two issues. Either you need to raise your initial layer flow, or you need to recalibrate your starting z offset (make the printer print the first layer closer to the bed).

[Anonymous No.1551681]

>>1551660
Well, it seems to had some positive effect. Hard to tell since it's one layer vs the previous pic's two layers. Could also be mild warping in the bed, which is an ender 3 thing as a whole. Maybe another anon with more experience can chime in.

>>1551646
Their github is funny
>try new thing
>revert thing
>try new thing
>revert thing
>try new thing
Every single day.

[Anonymous No.1551686]

What's the most likely cause for the extruder to skip like this on an i3 mega (using PLA)?

https://i.imgur.com/XA0UCb1.gifv (not mine, but it's doing the same thing)

It's not constant, more often happens after a retraction but will skip while extruding normally too (leading to underextrusion). Settings are pretty much bone stock cura settings, 60mm/s speed, 0.2mm layer height, etc.

[Anonymous No.1551688]

>>1551678
>or you need to recalibrate your starting z offset (make the printer print the first layer closer to the bed).
is there a setting for this in cura? I couldn't find one.

>>1551681
>Could also be mild warping in the bed, which is an ender 3 thing as a whole.
i sure hope not, I bought an aftermarket build plate specifically to avoid warping issues.

[Anonymous No.1551690]

>>1551688
It's probably in the printer, if you're running Marlin it's under the motion settings. Don't use the "initial layer height" setting in Cura, it's not what you think (it's meant more for layer adhesion, if you want a print with .1mm layers but can only get adhesion with .4mm for example it will do .4 for only the first layer).

[Anonymous No.1551693]

>>1551452
I print PLA at 215-218 degrees

[Anonymous No.1551694]

>>1551548
Kek

[Anonymous No.1551696]

>>1551560
male wife > female wife

[Anonymous No.1551697]

>>1551587
It's amazing what a $200 printer can do, shame about the high maintenance.

[Anonymous No.1551711]

>>1551686
Also the extruder motor isn't getting too hot, maybe 40 degrees or so (not too hot to touch). Anything I should try before turning up the current?

[Anonymous No.1551717]

>>1551587
>1.2mm layer height
niceu

[Anonymous No.1551729]

>>1551717
.12 you know what he meant you shit.

[Anonymous No.1551730]

>>1551681
>Their github is funny
>>try new thing
>>revert thing
>>try new thing
>>revert thing
>>try new thing
>Every single day.
A lot of the weird cool shit we get in 3d printing comes from Slic3rPE... for better or worse sometimes.

[Anonymous No.1551748]

>>1551660
Is this toward the center of the bed? For a long time I had a low spot in the center of my bed. Shore it up by shoving one of those really thin water bottle caps underneath, sanding the bottom of the cap to fit. After I rebuilt things I just straight bent it back into place by eyeballing it available then reinstalled. Still using my stock plate a year later, learning scratches and all. Wipe with 91% iso with a microfiber cloth before each print.

[Anonymous No.1551752]

>>1551588
No~

[Anonymous No.1551858]

>>1551711

Just turn it up, if it doesn't help check your hotend for blockages.

[Anonymous No.1551864]

>>1551858
Alright, will do. It's a new machine with about a days worth of printing so far, so I don't think it'd be a clogged hotend.

Another scrub question: do you need to recalibrate steps/mm when going between PLA & PETG? Or just change the extrusion multiplier/flow rate?

[Anonymous No.1551881]

Got a photon recently and it's not printing the right size (larger than it should be). All the calibration guides I can find are for the baseplate, not the actual size of the printed parts. Any suggestions as to what I need to change to fix it?

[Anonymous No.1551888]

>>1551864

No, the steps/mm calibration is only done once per extruder, it's to dial in everything just right on the cold side before the filament enters the hotend. The diameter of the hobbed gear is the key factor which determines how the motor's rotation translates into a distance of filament travelled, so even the tinyest differences between the value set in software and the real world will affect it. That's the point of steps/mm calibration for the extruder, any filament specific stuff that happens at the hotend like expansion/contraction, runnyness etc. are dialled in with the multiplier/flow rate setting in the slicer or host software.

[Anonymous No.1551889]

>>1551881

Did you check if it's using the screen's native resolution?

[Anonymous No.1551906]

>>1551452
Your print isn't sticking to the bed. Heat the bed to 80°C and make first layer nozzle temp to 210°C see what happens.
Also clean your bed before with ethanol/isopropyl.

[Anonymous No.1551909]

>>1551587
>1.2mm layer height
no

[Anonymous No.1551914]

>>1551587
Ender 3 w/ no mods at all
0.15 layer height
No tuning at all, my first print ever. Gcode was on the sd card of the Ender.

[Anonymous No.1551920]

Good morning /3dpg/. Going to try slic3r today after the homer buddha anon's claim that new versions are less shitty. By stock it's really overzealous on supports but I'll give it a go anyway. Will post pics. Interface is a lot nicer than Cura's beta, I'll give it that.

[Anonymous No.1551941]

>>1551920
>burrs & Stringing
>Inconsistent axes
>o shit nigger what are you doing tier supports
>27 minutes to print
Well, let's try the same thing in Cura.

[Anonymous No.1551977]

Same thing in Cura
>"I walked away from it before the first layer finished" layer adhesion

[Anonymous No.1552001]

This time it printed by Cura seems have taken 50 minutes instead of 27. At some point the speed dropped in half and I don't know why. It looks nicer, but I think slic3r's would too if run at half speed.

[Anonymous No.1552005]

>>1552001
>At some point the speed dropped in half and I don't know why.
Minimum layer time. If it has a layer below X seconds, it slows down so as to not produce a melty blob of PLA.

[Anonymous No.1552032]

>>1552001
Post stl

[Anonymous No.1552050]

>>1552032
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3415860
Here you go. It's going to be a Dinergate, which is a little robot dog thing from Girl's Frontline. The original is at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3361756 and is more a show model than a print model. I'm rebuilding it in a way that lets it articulate a lot better and snap together without glue.

[Anonymous No.1552068]

>>1551977
>"I walked away from it before the first layer finished"
Never do this.

[Anonymous No.1552094]

do motor dampers help reduce ringing or just noise?

[Anonymous No.1552101]

Why do I get blobbing on layers near but not at the bottom of my prints? The first few layers at 0% fan speed are fine, then it goes up to 100 and blobs the outside walls for a few layers (but only the walls, infill not affected) and then goes back to normal?

[Anonymous No.1552136]

>>1551889
This is the only place I've found it. I'm currently in the process of adjusting the ratios at the bottom and it seems to work for the Z axis, but haven't gotten the X or Y yet.

[Anonymous No.1552137]

>>1552136
Forgot to mention - yes, this is the native resolution, and I can't change it.

[Anonymous No.1552150]

>>1552136

Try:
X: 68,04mm
Y: 121,96 mm

[Anonymous No.1552152]

>>1552150

(flip them if necessary)

[Anonymous No.1552161]

>>1552150
>>1552152
Those were the original ratios I had (and 150 was Z) so it looks like they might have just tested one unit and thought the same values apply to all of them. The Z axis seems to be fine, in the sense of "my tools aren't accurate enough to measure the difference anymore", but X and Y are still 0.3 and 0.4mm off. Which, I think I might have scaled the wrong way and doubled the error instead.

[Anonymous No.1552225]

>>1551914
You put it together right!

Good job!

[Anonymous No.1552228]

Bought some dampers for my axis motors, but the diameter of the hole is too small to fit over my pulleys, which are press-fit on. Is there anything stopping me from simply taking a dremel and grinding the hole to be a larger diameter?

[Anonymous No.1552229]

>>1552228
>bought some dampers
From where, postwar Poland? Shit looks like it's been sitting abandoned for years. But yes, you should be able to grind it a bit as long as you don't break the seal/connection

[Anonymous No.1552271]

>>1552228
put it on the other side of the motor or print out that press-fit pully puller

>>1552229
don't know why but a lot of them look like that

[Anonymous No.1552279]

>>1552271
>put it on the other side of the motor
the side not attached to the printer?

[Anonymous No.1552283]

>>1552279
yes and then attach it to the printer somehow

[Anonymous No.1552306]

>>1551519
BEAUTIFUL

[Anonymous No.1552434]

New Thread: >>1552433

[Anonymous No.1553447]

>>1551914
does the ender 3 come with any filament to test with ootb?

[Anonymous No.1553469]

>>1553447
A tiny amount, yeah. Enough to print a benchy, but you'll want to buy a spool of very soon anyway, so you might as well order filament with the printer and save on shipping.

[Anonymous No.1553531]

>>1553469
Oh, good, I ordered filament from a different store but was just worried about one arriving before the other . Thx

[Anonymous No.1553795]

>>1548591
>discord
>not IRC
>trying to slow down 3DPG threads
gas yourself zoomer

[Anonymous No.1554054]

3d brainlet here

I a resin printer worth it for miniature prototypes?