/3DPG/

[Anonymous No.1542439]

You wouldn't download a car Edition
Old thread: >>1538979
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy

>Need help with prints? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 7-1-2019]
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free:
https://www.blender.org/
https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/

[Anonymous No.1542508]

how does this look as wake-up light?

[Anonymous No.1542522]

/3DPG/ Discord: https://discord.gg/TtZ7Gba
Don't be a square; join and post prints!


>>1542508
How big is it?
Might want to add more polys to the stl if it is; wouldn't look too great with those rough lines visible in the print.

[Anonymous No.1542525]

>>1542522
>>>/lgbt/

[Anonymous No.1542539]

>>1542439
>/3DPG/
>all caps
welcome to >>>/DIY/

[Anonymous No.1542542]

>>1542508
Literally looks like a generic wake up light. So its good if you were aiming for this.

[Anonymous No.1542545]

250 mm high, 200mm wide and 170 deep.
the curve is calculated with
width = -0.0008*(i-25)^2 + 100
depth = -0.0005*(i-25)^2 + 85
where i is z in mm.

>>1542542
yes it was. but i wasnt sure about the curves. glad yall like it.

time to render it with more triangles.

[Anonymous No.1542547]

>>1541709
Shortly after uploading that I went through and gave it once over. There's a new version in the same link, again with source file. It's a little more stable on the same base thanks to shorter arms and a smarter scraper mount. You can still knock it over, just not as easily.
Still better than the other tool mounts that smack the extruder assembly or its cords at top level

[Anonymous No.1542651]

Guy from the last thread using PRO1 in an Anycubic Chiron here, I'm trying to print pic related but it still doesn't stick. Printer is perfectly leveled, I've reduced print speed to 40mm/s with a 0.2mm layer height and 0.8mm nozzle, but the top surface of each individual layer is still rough, as if it isn't completely melting in the middle of the nozzle.
Seems like this hotend can't even deal with 8 cubic mm per second worth of material. What's the solution here? Print even slower? Smaller nozzle, bigger layer height? Give up and throw a chinkshit V6 in here? Am I even diagnosing the problem correctly as being not even heater capacity?

[Anonymous No.1542656]

>>1542651
Here's the model.
>Anycubic Chiron
>Innofil PRO1
>Bed temp: 60 degree
>Extruder temp: 250 degree
>Print speed: 40mm/s
>Nozzle: 0.8mm
>Layer height: 0.2mm
>16mm brim (20 lines)

[Anonymous No.1542698]

>>1542651
>0.8mm nozzle
Cranking up the heat for adhesion is one of the mistakes I was making, 250 for PL is asking for trouble. Unless it's ABS in which case you're spot on. Anyway since you have such a huge nozzle you can crank the thickness of the first layer up - try the first layer at .6mm and see if your results change. The fact there's empty space suggests to me you might be underextruding on the first layer too. Try upping the fill rate on the first layer by 10 or 20% and post results.

[Anonymous No.1542701]

>>1542698
>Anyway since you have such a huge nozzle you can crank the thickness of the first layer up
The hotend is already struggling to heat it up sufficiently for a 0.2mm layer height, tripling extrusion volume doesn't sound like a sane move. The empty space is there because I stopped the print, it's a solid product without any infill because it needs to be strong - so there's no way to up fill rate.

[Anonymous No.1542703]

>>1542701
>The hotend is already struggling to heat it up sufficiently for a 0.2mm layer height
Are you using PLA or ABS? Because if it's PLA and you have your extruder set that high and it's still struggling you have a hardware issue.

[Anonymous No.1542706]

>>1542703
Innofil PRO1, which is a high temp PLA (220-240 degree recommended nozzle temp). Maybe the hotend just doesn't have the heater cartridge to go over 10mm3/s at this temperature differential.

[Anonymous No.1542789]

>disassemble printer
>extruder throat is covered in icky white stuff, assume it's from a plastic leak and clean it off
>realise it's thermal compound
How important is this stuff? Do I need to go buy a tube to replace it?

[Anonymous No.1542871]

here come dat boi

I didn't want to deal with figuring out how to ship this guy with all the fragile spiky parts attached so I decided to keep them separate and have them clip on with magnets. Painting is also a lot easier. 10/10 will use magnets again

[Anonymous No.1543040]

>>1542789
>extruder throat has thermal compound
Wait, what? Pics?

[Anonymous No.1543050]

>>1543040
Thermal compound is typically applied only to the cold end to help interface the throat an the heat sink.

[Anonymous No.1543068]

How could i change PWM that is driving E steps in marlin FW, to laser more constant? That pwm like signal is making laser work too dimmed.
Is there a way? That PWM is like 5Khz or so, with too big delays beetween signals "peaks". How to make that lower frequency but almost no or at all of those delays? Regulating steps/mm didnt gave anything better.

[Anonymous No.1543077]

>>1543068
Use a fan output instead?

[Anonymous No.1543079]

>>1543077
Does it work along when laser/filament should go and so on?
I will check dat out anyway.

[Anonymous No.1543145]

>>1543040
...I cleaned it off.
>>1543050 What this guy said.
How important is it? My old extruder didn't have it and seemed to work fine.

[Anonymous No.1543150]

My replacement heater doesn't fit my old extruder stuff, so I've zip-tied it onto the x carriage as tightly as I could. It only needs to work for one print, so I can make myself a real mount...

[Anonymous No.1543167]

>>1542508
Design is kinda dull and generic.

[Anonymous No.1543197]

>>1543145
Don't you have some laying around from an old desktop pc build?

[Anonymous No.1543218]

>>1543197
No, all my computers have been laptops.

[Anonymous No.1543238]

Wonder whats in the box

[Anonymous No.1543240]

>>1543145
>>1543218
You don't need it at all but it probably helps a little bit.

[Anonymous No.1543246]

>>1543238
We know what's in the box, anon.

[Anonymous No.1543284]

>>1543238
Anything but a 3D printer, that's for sure.

[Anonymous No.1543356]

Does anyone here print mechanical things? Do they work well? I know about nerfanon but I am curious about more higher stress applications.

[Anonymous No.1543390]

>>1543356
That one anon printed a car once
Allegedly 2 brackets I printed for a hose or something in a buddy of mines street racer are still in use, but I havent talked to him in like a year so I have no idea

[Anonymous No.1543418]

>>1543238
PRUSA MK3 with NON powder coated PEI pleb sheet.

[Anonymous No.1543461]

>>1543218
You still need to replace it periodically in laptops too.

[Anonymous No.1543571]

This is the slowest /3dpg/ ever, goddamn.

[Anonymous No.1543584]

hello,
I currently have an Anet A6, would i get any advantages on switching mainboard to a Mega + RAMP 1.4 ?
My goal is to make the printer more silent by having better drivers without loosing in quality

[Anonymous No.1543586]

>>1543571
We have two of them, each with half the usual speed one would have, for a total of 1/4 posting speed, for whatever godforsaken reason

[Anonymous No.1543588]

>>1543584
no advantages really, i mean yeah you can install better drivers on the ramps but it ain't worth it, just concentrate on keeping the printer functional

[Anonymous No.1543591]

>>1543588
My current A6 is functional and gives me the quality i need but the sound is just awful ( i've put dumpers under the printer already )
So if the RAMPS will not change the quality but give me a quiter printer ( thanks to the drivers ) i guess it's worth it

[Anonymous No.1543607]

>>1543418
This guy is correct

[Anonymous No.1543611]

>>1543356
When you print PETG or Nylon you almost reach injection molded strength.
I'm about to print a replacement gear for my friends bread cutter machine.

[Anonymous No.1543614]

>>1543611
Don't use printed parts for shit that comes into contact with food.

[Anonymous No.1543631]

>>1543611
Nice. Is PETG easy to print? By easy I mean easier than ABS.
>>1543614
Don't they have food safe PLA?

[Anonymous No.1543637]

Vasemoding THICCNESS is so mezmerizing to watch

>>1543631
That pic was PLA. I haven't tried PETG yet, but they say it's a lot easier to print than ABS and even a bit stronger in the end.

[Anonymous No.1543638]

>>1543631
"Don't they have food safe PLA?"
it's not about the material, its about the shape.
Printed parts are hard to keep clean.

[Anonymous No.1543645]

>>1543637
is it easy to join? Despite being a pain to print one thing I like about ABS is that solvent welding it is a doddle.
>>1543638
Yes I realised this when I tried to 3D print a dildo. maybe smooth it? But then that's adding more chemicals....

[Anonymous No.1543647]

Anyone here has any experience with sculpting?

I want to get into sculpting figurines for printing.

As my software I think i'm going to go with blender.
I would prefer avoiding ZBrush like plague.

Could somebody give me a quick rundown on the workflow that I should use?

Can I create a basic T-pose shape with meta balls, rig it, then sculpt in the anatomy and details, slap on it the box modeled hard surface elements and equipment, then use the rig and pose it how I want?

Should I box model the low poly base mesh as well?

Should I even start with a T-pose or should just sculpt it in the desired pose from the start?

[Anonymous No.1543655]

>>1543645
you can buy food safe epoxy or sealant

[Anonymous No.1543660]

>>1543647
>Avoid universally the best sculpting software with easy export for printing
Good idea, buddy

[Anonymous No.1543661]

>>1543660
But it's an absolute nightmare to learn and I don't need most of it's features since i'm not making it for a AAA game.

[Anonymous No.1543696]

>>1543661
And Blender isn't???

[Anonymous No.1543722]

>>1543637
This is a sfw board, please don't post that smut.

[Anonymous No.1543796]

>>1542871
What printer was this made on? How do you get such fine details and then smooth at the same time?

[Anonymous No.1543799]

Delta vs Cartesian
Which is better and why?

[Anonymous No.1543802]

>>1543799
corexy

[Anonymous No.1543807]

>>1543799
Anything but delta.

[Anonymous No.1543809]

>>1543799
As Cartesius said himself: THE D

[Anonymous No.1543822]

Has anyone here used "aluminium" PLA? Does it look like real aluminium (for example a aluminium heatbed)? Is it similarly strong as real aluminium, or is it just PLA-level strong?

[Anonymous No.1543828]

>>1543822
Without knowing which of the over 9000 possible brands of filament you're talking about, just about any filament is 95%+ base/binder with the rest possibly being the material you mean. You can't melt aluminum with an extruder head, which means you can't actually form the bonds needed for the strength of aluminum. It might be a bit stronger than PLA and look more metallic but that's pretty much it. If you want structural parts, use ABS.

[Anonymous No.1543829]

>>1543822
you have to "polish" metal-filled plastics to make then look similar to the metal that's in them
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AU8WvGveNj4

[Anonymous No.1543830]

>>1543799
the quality of delta style >>>>>>>>> shitty cartesian
people only buy cartesian because they are "easier"

[Anonymous No.1543848]

>>1543822
>Is it similarly strong as real aluminium
hmm probably not.

[Anonymous No.1543855]

>>1543829
I know, but all the videos I've seen are filaments like these bronze and copper ones, I need aluminium specifically and it's pretty important that it looks like actual aluminium.

[Anonymous No.1543860]

>>1543855
Might want to look into lost PLA aluminium casting.

[Anonymous No.1543867]

>>1543855
>and it's pretty important that it looks like actual aluminium
why?
what did you break?

[Anonymous No.1543872]

>>1543822
> Is it similarly strong as real aluminium
No.
> Will it destroy my brass nozzle and turn that delicate 0.4mm hole into a prolapsed anus?
Yes.

[Anonymous No.1543874]

>>1543860
That's really cool! I'd consider it, but I need twenty(!) 60mm dia 2mm thick spoked wheels, so it doesn't seem super practical. My brother has a 3D printer so if I could do this by just buying a roll of aluminium filament and a steel nozzle for it and spending an evening prying them off the printer, that would be easiest. Otherwise I'd see about paying the Chinese to do it on a laser cutter. But since it does need to be displayable I can't just do it by hand either, and the aluminium look is pretty important, and casting sounds like a host of trouble, it would take a long time for each wheel and I don't think the spokes would be very easy to cast. The guy in that video was worried just about a shaft hole. Imagine that times fifty. I was just thinking that a 3D printer and some of that aluminium PLA might work, it would be the easiest way to get good looking parts.

Basically, if aluminium filament can be polished up to look like the aluminium on a heated print bed?
>>1543867
I didn't break something, it's a model. The wheels bolt together around a rubber mold.
>>1543828
https://www.amazon.de/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=aluminium+filament
Probably one of these.
>>1543872
I'm aware of the problems with wood and metal filaments, I'd buy a steel nozzle for this specifically so I don't ruin anything for my brother.

[Anonymous No.1543877]

Guy with the thermal runaway CR-10 here

I connected the hotend to the bed heater output and changed the firmware. No more thermal runaways.

Ill buy a replacement fet and hope its fixed after i replaced it.

[Anonymous No.1543913]

>>1543860
Wouldn't it be easier to print a two-piece mold out of PLA, fill it with that boat foam, take it apart, bury the foam part in sand, and casting the aluminium directly onto that? Burning the PLA away beforehand seems like a waste and more effort than you need.

[Anonymous No.1543934]

>>1543913
What if u print eith like 3% infill and a single wall layer and just bury the part in sand and pour in metal? What little plastic there is might not affect the casting negatively.

[Anonymous No.1543938]

>>1543934
Would you even need to? Aluminium melts at 660 degrees, and foam at 250. If molten aluminium can immediately burn away foam, it should have no problem with PLA, which sits like sixty degrees lower.

[Anonymous No.1543954]

where should i buy an ender 3 from? amazon?

[vocel No.1543958]

Just printed an adapter to attach an a-mount camera to my telescope. It's basically just a t-shaped tube to fit the ocular mount with holes for a salvaged bajonet from a broken lens.

I first tried to print the bajonet itself, for which I made a model in Inventor with measurements taken from said salvaged lens, but that turned out to be too brittle, since the lug walls are a mere millimetre thin.

>>1543796
Sanding or acetone, I'd guess

[vocel No.1543960]

>>1543958
Totally forgot, about half of the tube broke off and the base is minimally warped. I still have my problems with printing.

[Anonymous No.1543991]

>>1543696
Blender sculpting is actually really intuitive, especially with dynamic topology. It's everything else in blender that's confusing.

[Anonymous No.1544044]

>>1543958
>>1543960
What material did you use? (PLA is super brittle)
Why didn't fill it comoletely when you need it to be super durable?
Where did it snap and can you reinforce this section?

>>1543647
>>1543991
Honerable mention is VR sculpting. There's software like Gravity Sketch and others for sculpting. Doing this is REALLY intuitive because
you can draw 3D volumetric with your hands.
It's a cool workflow and I'll definetly get more into this when I have the time to.
VR drawn and printed something once before.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=YZ5sZjevfso
https://youtube.com/watch?v=E3Rpx-3eDCE
https://youtube.com/watch?v=FLnTWdgmnO4

[Anonymous No.1544062]

Has anyone tried using a large heatblock? I'm currently making a 30x30x15mm alu block that will take 2 cartridges, probably gonna use it with volcano nozzles. I'm hoping to at least double my maximum print speed by plastic volume, printer was really struggling with larger, low-accuracy prints.
Also thought about increasing the catridge wattage, either by using 12V cartridges or going for 220V ones. For now I'll just stick to the ~35W 24V ones I have though.

[Anonymous No.1544073]

>>1543647
My personal blender sculpting workflow is as follows
-Create a base mesh to sculpt from; make sure your proportions and pose are how you want them at this stage. I personally like using Metaballs and then converting to mesh, but you can box-model or use a combination of primitives and boolean union them together.
-Slap that motherfucking Dyntopo checkbox and start piling on the tris, clay strips brush and crease do most of the heavy lifting, lots of smoothing inbetween. Start low-detail and work your way up to high-detail, making passes over your model, always keeping it moving. For alpha texturing at the end, flood fill the model at a high detail level, then uncheck Dyntopo.

There are lots of sculpting tutorials on YT, get familiar.
Enable the 3D printing tools plugin, should be included in the program, use the Make Manifold command. If blender crashes, decimate modifier and reduce the poly count, then try again. Export as .stl, load into slicer, print.

[Anonymous No.1544089]

Do you think this will work?

[Anonymous No.1544091]

>>1544089
What size? If you have decently big surfaces on the bottom for adhesion and a good printing surface, it should print unless it's a tiny part.

[Anonymous No.1544092]

>>1543960
It snapped because the bending force is parallel to the layer direction. You need to print it sideways. The warping is probably due to a lack of an enclosure if you are using ABS.

[Anonymous No.1544093]

>>1544091
40cm. I am printing it blade by blade with supports.

[Anonymous No.1544094]

>>1544093
Should be fine then.

[Anonymous No.1544096]

>>1544094
Thanks. It was supposed to be a model of a jet but there are too few blades for an authentic look I think. Do you think it still looks like a jet? Case and nose cone coming soon.

[Anonymous No.1544121]

>>1544089
for what purpose?
printed props create a lot of turbulence.
>>1544093
at what velocity do you expect it to spin?
if it spins too fast the velocity at the tip can rip it apart.

if its possible i would print each blade standing up and then assembling it later. that way the layer lines are in the orientation of air travel and reduce turbulence so its more efficient. but the max velocity will be decreased.
but im not sure that is possible or needed in your case.

[Anonymous No.1544126]

>>1544089
damn, airfoils and changing AOAs
very nice, hoping you calculated the optimal values for the AOA and selected the right airfoil as well

[Anonymous No.1544128]

>>1544121
with this layer orientation you would have to spin it at a crazy RPM to make the blades rip
vibration might end up being an issue but that can be addressed in post processing

[Anonymous No.1544129]

>>1544121
Honestly mainly aesthetics and sound but there are practical reasons too such as ability to match it perfectly to a specific motor and a small size 2 or 3 blade prop can only handle so much power.
>at what velocity do you expect it to spin?
6900 RPM. I predicted it to fail at 7900 RPM. Gonna be an exciting test (from behind sandbags)
>if its possible i would print each blade standing up and then assembling it later. that way the layer lines are in the orientation of air travel and reduce turbulence so its more efficient
Will make it way too weak, 3D printed plastic snaps like a twig along the layers. The boundary layer is turbulent anyway, Reynolds numbers are predicted to be over 10^5

[Anonymous No.1544137]

>>1544126
Thanks. it's a NACA 0012 airfoil. The optimal AOA I found was 5 degrees.

[Anonymous No.1544140]

>>1544129
i assume you will be printing it in PLA.
8k rpm sounds kinda fast, best of luck with the tests.

Something i was wondering now, how would perimeter and infill effect it?
solid infill would make it stronger but also generate more outwards force, but all normal props are made this way. with only 1 parameter it would be fragile if something hit it, but would it would generate less force.

[Anonymous No.1544144]

>>1544140
Thanks. Right now yes because that is the filament I have but I want to print it in PETG in future.
>solid infill would make it stronger but also generate more outwards force
Yes you're right it's a balancing act but overall I found that increasing the infill makes the failure RPM slightly higher.

[Anonymous No.1544152]

>>1544044
I'm using ABS for the moment, and I didn't fill it up completely since I don't have any suspension for the filament spool yet and I have to unroll it by hand every few feet.

>>1544092
Yeah, enclosure is an issue, too. I don't have one since I bought just about the cheapest printer I could find that still has a big (28x20), heated bed. Pic related.

[Anonymous No.1544227]

>>1544152
>unroll it by hand every few feet
Use a clothes hanger. Just stick the bar through the center of the spool, stick it in the hanger, and hang the hanger pretty much anywhere. It'll unroll on its own just fine.

[vocel No.1544247]

>>1544227
It's the most basic things you don't think of.
Thank you. I mean it.

[Anonymous No.1544253]

>>1544227
>>1544247
My spool holder for three years now has been a wrench laid across two cardboard boxes.

[Anonymous No.1544260]

>>1544152
Jesus look at that janky piece of shit. The bed and gantry are completely out of square from the rest of the frame.

>I bought just about the cheapest printer I could
You should have saved a bit more and bought at least a modern cheap printer, the issues you're going to have with that machine are not worth the $30 or whatever you saved.

[Anonymous No.1544271]

>>1543877
it's more common than you think guys, mine did it too. that board has zero protections against it. Stay safe anons

[vocel No.1544277]

>>1544260
I paid 320€ for 28x20x20 build volume with a heated bed and the dual extruder upgrade.
I guess I really should have saved up some more.

[Anonymous No.1544283]

>>1544277
you should have bought an Ender 3 for less than that or pay a little more for a CR-10 lol

[Anonymous No.1544286]

>>1544277
>I paid 320€ for 28x20x20
Did you forget some zeroes? Because that is completely unacceptable
You can get an ender 3 for as low as $160 if you hunt for the right discount codes, regular retail right now is $199 and its literally 10x bigger than that misaligned chinkshit

[Anonymous No.1544291]

>>1544286
>actually thinking that simple FDM printers exist and are sold with 28x20x20mm build volume

[Anonymous No.1544298]

>>1544286
>Did you forget some zeroes?
He probably means cm instead of mm

[Anonymous No.1544301]

How do I into turbomachinery? Trying to design a little 3D printed steam turbine.

I'm trying to make a micro (as in palm sized) steam power plant to extract a little electrical energy from my process heater. I'm planning on running the boiler at only about 120C, so the quality of the steam is going to be really low. I'm thinking about 3D printing a Tesla turbine out of polycarbonate, which ought to be able to stand up to the temperature and shouldn't be affected as much by water droplets since it's a purely shear flow turbine.

What do you think?

[Anonymous No.1544303]

>>1544286
Where does one find these discount codes? That's a pretty significant savings

[Anonymous No.1544355]

I want to make sure the nozzles I'm looking to buy will fit my Any Cubic i3 Mega. Are they all the same save for the filament and orifice size?

[Anonymous No.1544358]

>>1544303
I got one from a YouTube video I watched like a year and a half ago, I'll dig around to find it, otherwise try the same shady Chinese websites you get steep vidya discounts from

[Anonymous No.1544360]

>>1544355
Most nozzles are a M5 thread, I would imagine your hotend would specify it was different

[Anonymous No.1544365]

>>1544355
No, there are 3 major types.
>>1544360
>M5
They're M6 on the most common E3D blocks.

E3D's standard is the short M6, the Volcano has the long M6, and the cheapest chink heatblocks have a different type, but compatible with regular E3D. E3D cyclops also has a different, smaller nozzle. Then there are those old heatbreak-less extruder designs that take a different type.

Check what type of heatblock/extruder you have, if you can't figure it out, take a good quality picture of it and post it.

[Anonymous No.1544416]

>>1544301
Heat engines are pretty much useless at low temperature/pressure. You could make it spin but you won't get any power out of it. A Tesla turbine is literally just flat discs, you may as well get steel plates cut.

[Anonymous No.1544441]

>>1544416
He could use a stirling engine. Place one heat pad on the hot thing, and a big-ass radiator somewhere cold. Dunno how long range you could get just with insulated tube and coolant sealed inside, but if it's in something like a basement you might be able to hook the cold end to your coldwater plumbing or wastewater and get good efficiency.

[Anonymous No.1544460]

>>1544416
It's a process heater first and power generator second. I need about 300 watts of process heat but only about 20 watts of electricity.

>>1544441
It needs to run off of the steam directly since I'm doing a sort of cogeneration setup.

[Anonymous No.1544479]

>>1544365
>1.0 nozzle
Hot damn, you could get some lightning print times with that. Has anyone ever made a 1.75mm extruder? You wouldn't even need a nozzle for that.

[Anonymous No.1544491]

>>1544441
Yeah a Stirling engine sounds like a better idea
>>1544460
Well go for it if you really want but as I said have steel cut instead of 3D printing, Even if polycarbonate can survive the heat it might expand or warp or crack, it will just be a pain, always use metal for high temperature applications. It's a simple geometry so there's no point in 3D printing it.

[Anonymous No.1544502]

>>1544460
A stirling engine is cogeneration. You're using the differential of the heat generated in the heater and the heat of your cold pad to produce motion.The heat would be generated either way, you're just putting it to use.

[Anonymous No.1544567]

>>1544502
I need the steam working fluid though. This thing is going in an RC blimp that uses steam as a lifting gas. By using the steam I'm already producing as a working fluid, I can save quite a bit of precious weight. Stirling engines tend to be quite heavy because of all the heat sinks.

[Anonymous No.1544570]

>>1544567
Got you, I was under the impression this was a boiler for an apartment building or something like that.
In this case I'm with the other guy, cut these out of metal instead. Buy some aluminium plate to keep weight down, and use a dremel and a plunge router to cut them into shape.

[Anonymous No.1544622]

>>1544479
Your extruder motor would hate you
I have a 1mm nozzle and it perfect for large parts where surface quality doesn't make a difference. Some say the larger diameter of extrusion strokes makes for a stronger print, but I haven't noticed a difference in strength.

[Anonymous No.1544646]

starting out with SLA printing and trying to learn how to do supports; I heard Meshmixer is pretty good for making them, but the purple and green supports here (pretty much boomerangs) seem very odd. Why are they bent like that, is it really better to do that than just a vertical one?

[Anonymous No.1544681]

>>1544479
It's not as good as it should be. With a regular heater, you run into the heater's capacity limit even with a 0.8 nozzle at fairly low speeds, so all a 1.2 does it make your prints uglier.
>>1544622
It makes for a stronger print if your shit isn't calibrated right.

[Anonymous No.1544702]

Currently printing parts to upgrade an MK2.5 to a "Bear"

[Anonymous No.1544758]

>>1544365
Thanks

[Anonymous No.1544877]

I've printed five blades so far. Seven to go. They seem strong when I try to bend them, only issue is the support made the underside really rough, I will need to spend a while sanding them down. After the sanding I was thinking of covering them in XTC-3D for a polished metallic look.

[Anonymous No.1544900]

>>1544646
They're meant to connect to a solid part of the mesh and support another part of the mesh using the least amount of filament for the best result. That kind of support isn't bad per-say, but it can be a bitch to clean up. The same is true of conventional supports too.

[Anonymous No.1544911]

>>1544900
SLA
>filament
o-okay

[Anonymous No.1544921]

>>1544911
Resin, filament, whatever. Those supports are designed to hold the mesh together using the least material your print is made out of. If you're that apprehensive, just do one print with those and one print with conventional supports and see what works better.

[Anonymous No.1544923]

Week long print finished. 75% of her by weight is hair so she has to lean forward heavily. Had to adjust some of the meshes as the ready-made supports left a lot to be desired, especially on the forearms and calves. She's holding a dime for size reference.

[Anonymous No.1544925]

>>1544923
Why did this take a week? Why didn't you print the head at a lower infill? That would have solved stability issues no?

[Anonymous No.1544930]

>>1544925
I won't bore you with the details anon, but work > life > hobbies. I printed one, maybe two parts a day. As for the hair, this is her standing unassisted on her tiny feet. I'd call that pretty well balanced.

[Anonymous No.1544935]

>>1543637
That's a neat looking condom pinata. When's the party?

[Anonymous No.1544947]

>>1544930
Is this an ABS print?

[Anonymous No.1544950]

Is 3dprintersbay.com a reputable site? Thinking of getting an i3 mega there since it's only $250.

[Anonymous No.1544951]

>>1544947
PLA. Amazonbasics. Really cheap stuff. I have to use a glass bed + blue painter's tape or it won't stick to the bed at all. Once it's going it's not terrible, but I don't think I'll be buying the brand anymore.

[Anonymous No.1544988]

>>1544921
>Resin, filament, whatever
Sums you up pretty good i guess.

[Anonymous No.1544989]

Is it possible to make filament out of starch and chicken fat?
I lost all my good boy points and need to print my own tendies.

[Anonymous No.1544993]

>>1544989
Not filament per se, but 3D printed food is absolutely possible. Some bakeries have been printing cake for a while now.

[Anonymous No.1545005]

Is it safe to sand PLA indoors? It's too cold outside.

[Anonymous No.1545007]

>>1544950
buy something cheap to check

[Anonymous No.1545018]

Impressed at how much better my prints have gotten. Left is the first mini I ever printed, right is from this morning.

[Anonymous No.1545104]

I'm going to destroy my ender 3 bed by trying to sand it flat. Wish me luck gents.

[Anonymous No.1545108]

>>1544900
I get that, but I'm wondering specifically why they bend outwards before coming back in instead of going straight up from where they start (since it seems like the start and end points can often be pretty much vertical, like the bottom-left pink and the purple one in the middle of the image)

>>1544911
>>1544988
>>1544921
Not me. What do you mean by "conventional" supports? Non-tree based ones?

[Anonymous No.1545109]

>>1545018
Care to share what made it better?

[Anonymous No.1545162]

>>1545109
Tightened my belts, used Siepie's cura profile and printed tilted 45° back.

[Anonymous No.1545187]

>>1545005
As long as you're not pulverizing your entire print and inhaling that, you should be fine even with ABS indoors. Wet the part/sandpaper with something if you're concerned, or use a knife to trim

[Anonymous No.1545193]

>>1545187
Alternatively, buy yourself one of those ten dollar Russian gas masks from ebay. If it's good enough for Sarin, it's good enough for PLA.

[Anonymous No.1545211]

>>1545104
For future reference, once you peel off the fake buildtak from the bed of the ender 3 there will be a layer of contact cement like material. Instead of spending hours wiping it off with paint thinner like an idiot, you should look a little closer and notice a layer of plastic under the glue. You can peel this plastic off from one of the corners using a sharp knife and it will come off in one piece leaving like 95% less glue residue.

Also do not try and desolder the power connections or remove the temperature sensor. The bed is fucking aluminum and your shitty 40W soldering iron cannot heat it up fast enough.

[Anonymous No.1545216]

>>1545104
Why tho?
Just get a glass plate.
Do you have the fixed bed version or the removeable flex bed version?

[Anonymous No.1545217]

>>1545162
How do you know if your belts are tensioned correctly?

[Anonymous No.1545221]

>>1545216
The extra mass it adds isn't worth it, both as inertia and thermal mass. Also having to use glue stick or hairspray every time.

I have the orignal fixed bed. I may upgrade to a prusa style bed or come up with my own solution.

Pic is the base wiped with some cyan ink I got out of printer cartridge, didn't stick at all but filled in all the fine scratches.

[Anonymous No.1545222]

>>1545221
This granite counter top is going to serve as my surface plate. I measured it... poorly... and saw somewhere around 5 thou deviation. It's good enough compared to how warped the bed is. I mean I can't make it any worse.

[Anonymous No.1545224]

>>1545222
A couple of more days of this and we'll really have something. Also I laid the sandpaper along the long side of the counter top so I have to reach in and do stretching motions to work it. Should've planned it better.

[Anonymous No.1545261]

>>1545217
They thrum like a E string.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SdXT_SR8dC8&feature=youtu.be&t=04m27s

[Anonymous No.1545322]

>>1545261
Thanks

[Anonymous No.1545324]

>>1545221
>>1545222
>>1545224
Does this actually solve the warp? I mean, you're thinning out the high spots; won't that cause a problem when you actually heat the bed up?

[Anonymous No.1545390]

>>1545224
I tried this with my cheap printer. Took way to long to sand and its still warped like 1-2mm

[Anonymous No.1545395]

>>1542439
>https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy
>What is chinkshit you ask? Succesful printers like the Ultimaker, Prusa i3, Ender 3 or CR-10 get cloned in China within months and can then be found on sites like Banggood and Alibaba. Their quality can vary wildly, although their instruction manuals and warranty are almost universally useless, ergo: chinkshit. Some of the common ones are Anet, Anycubic, Dalai Lama, Creality, Geeetech, JGAurora, Tiananmen 1989, Tevo, Tronxy, Uyghur Autonomic Region and Xiaomi.

>Some of the common ones are Dalai Lama, Tiananmen 1989, Uyghur Autonomic Region
Top kek

[Anonymous No.1545408]

>>1545324
You can just unscrew the aluminum plate, bend it flat and remount it.
Thats what I want to do but I'm lazy.
It really is only a first layer problem. As long as you can get down the first layer (which I can) it doesn't affect the rest of the print.
I like the flex bed plate. Comfy to remove prints and clean the plate but you have to relevel more often...
I also thought about getting the flex steel magnetic one but I'll wait until the original one is worn down more.

[Anonymous No.1545412]

>>1545221
>>1545224
>wiped with cyan ink
>filled fine scratches
what

Are you trying to perform spotting on the ender plate?
Why are you so autistic?

[Anonymous No.1545416]

>>1545261
>>1545322
The E resonance only applies to an certain belt lengh and belt model.
A different printer will have a different resonance frequency of a correct tightened belt.

It's not rocket science though. Make it tight but not too tight. Doesn't have to be super exact.

[Anonymous No.1545423]

is the ender 3 pro worth the extra $40 over the normal version?

[Anonymous No.1545428]

>>1545423
Not really, but it's not 40 USD badly spent.

[Anonymous No.1545438]

>>1545423
Probably better off spending that money on a mainboard upgrade with memenamic stepper drivers that everyone's been raving about.

[Anonymous No.1545439]

>>1545438
This desu. Wish the Pro had some actual pro upgrades like a non-potato motherboard, stepper motor dampers, or auto bed leveling.

[Anonymous No.1545440]

>>1545408
>It really is only a first layer problem.
Not if you're trying to print precise mechanical parts. I have no problems with getting it to stick, even with a gap of like 0.5mm or more it sticks when the bed heat is on. Which is why I never understood the autistic screeching about auto bed leveling. I need a flat surface for parts that mate perfectly and also I have warping issues which may or may not be related.

[Anonymous No.1545448]

>>1545108
I've found in my own printing that when a support sticks out from a model, the closer to perpendicular it is the better. There's fewer imperfections on the model (like stringing) and removing them is much easier. If you look at the model again, all the supports do two things: they jut out from the mesh in a way that tries to get close to 90 degrees, and add space between the mesh and the support. I believe this is less about the structural gains of the supports and more about ease of removal afterwards.
And by conventional I mean non-tree based ones. Cura still lists tree support as experimental.

[Anonymous No.1545468]

>>1545423
No.
You'll get a glass bed and throw the stock one away anyway.
The extra rail fixes a problem no one has.

[Anonymous No.1545496]

>>1545412
Yeah I didn't really think about it too hard, I was just doing what you're supposed to do to make truly flat surfaces. Turns out that the scratches left by 60 grit sandpaper are far more effective for seeing deviations.

I didn't spend too much more time on it last night after taking that pic. I mounted it back on the printer to do a quick check and surprisingly it's already within useable flatness; before I could visually see massive dips when I moved the nozzle around and now it's much harder to tell.

Wish I had printed a mount for my dial test indicator before I started this so I could stick it on the print head and measure how bad the deviation is. I think once this is done I'll take a whack at stiffening the mounting plate for the bed by attaching some vertical steel sections to it.

[Anonymous No.1545575]

sieg heil

[Anonymous No.1545585]

>>1545575
Now print yourself a Panzerkampfwagen VI and drive to Russia.

[Anonymous No.1545700]

Curious what peoples' experiences are with these resins, any comments?

[Anonymous No.1545780]

>>1545018
thats amazing, can you show yours support config on this ?

[Anonymous No.1545783]

>>1545585
Tigers were only introduced after the Russian front was already lost.

[Anonymous No.1545795]

>>1545496
Dude, spotting is for absolute finetuning in the sub 0.1mm area. My ender bed is warped in the 2mm area. This can be fixed with a soft hammer and a "Haarlineal".
Paint spotting doesn't work on metal sheets because they are too flexible to get steady results.

[Anonymous No.1545797]

>>1545575
Now stick it in pooper

[Anonymous No.1545805]

>>1545797
very well

[Anonymous No.1545811]

>>1545217
>>1545261
DESU I didn't strum because I couldn't find a good spot to try and get it. I just pulled it decently tight and tightened the allen key

[Anonymous No.1545868]

Is there a slicer known for easy to remove supports? I've been using cura, and my prints come out pretty, but the supports are a bitch to remove.

[Anonymous No.1545871]

>>1545868
Cura can do fine if you adjust it properly. I've found that 10% gives easy to remove supports but with bad surface finish on the print, 20% is too much to easily remove, 15% is a good middle ground. Getting the Z distance correct can help heaps, but it's too dependant on printer, material, individual print design etc. for me to give you a base value beyond what Cura uses. Open up your support settings and tweak untill it's perfect for your situation - but this goes for any slicer.

https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20422-cura-support-settings

[Anonymous No.1545879]

>>1545868
>>1545871
To add to this, enable the "experimental" tree supports and try using them instead of the normal supports. I've only had positive results so far, they're easy to remove and because they're trees instead of pillars they can position on the buildplate alone and thereby not ruin your top layer finishes below supported overhangs.

[Anonymous No.1545894]

>>1545871
Wohh. Thanks anon! Didn't realize I could tweak it a support settings.

[Anonymous No.1545908]

What's a good paint that sticks to PLA?

[Anonymous No.1545909]

What should I print?
I need suggestions

[Anonymous No.1545911]

>>1544923
> not making it life sized and splitting parts into chunks and then gluing back together
One day I will make a life sized flashlight doll

[Anonymous No.1545913]

>>1545879
Damn, didn't even know cura can do tree supports!
I will try.

Generally support removal abillities and surface leftovers depent heavily on the geometry of the part.

[Anonymous No.1545975]

>>1545911
>drill holes in eyes
>insert LEDs
>tiny battery in back behind hair instead of holes for wings
>in between head and hairplate there's enough room for a small circuit to make her blink randomly.
It'd work. She was a nice project build but if I were to start over I'd make her into a model where her joints snap together without string.

[Anonymous No.1546016]

>>1545909
>Vibration dampening feet for your printer
>Filament guide for your printer
>Those meme cable chains that are a total waste of filament and never work but look good in photos
>A case for the Raspberry Pi you stuck in a shelf and hasn't seen the light of day in a year.
>A tool holder so your tiny chinkshit wrenches don't get lost
>Something genuinely useful
I don't print things, I come here to shitpost.

[Anonymous No.1546023]

>>1545805
>prints nazi shit
>owns fake ass

[Anonymous No.1546050]

>>1545805
yo

[Anonymous No.1546052]

>>1546023
At least it's a white fake ass

[Anonymous No.1546062]

>>1546052
maybe its a jew ass

[Anonymous No.1546064]

>>1546062
lacks the coin slot

[Anonymous No.1546065]

>>1546064
kek

[Anonymous No.1546068]

I feel like I've been spamming the thread a bit lately but damn. This shit is fun.

[Anonymous No.1546069]

>>1546068
I can't be contained

[Anonymous No.1546077]

>>1546069
>>1546068
is that the "perfect" cura profile for models thats been floating around?
what printer/filament are you using?

[Anonymous No.1546189]

>>1546016
> did it a while back, not worth it and made poor quality prints at 150mm+
> have it
> puts extra stress on cable
> already did
> done
> I've printed many useful things.
I just ran out of things to print that are useful

[Anonymous No.1546190]

>>1545975
Nows a great time to start
Maybe even turn it into a mold so you can pour silicone in it or something

[Anonymous No.1546208]

>>1546190
I've toyed with it once or twice, designing snap elbow and ball joints and printing tiny little mockups. The biggest problem is I would have to fill the meshes since they are hollow in places as is and then re-hollow them out to match the new snap in joints. While this shouldn't be that hard the only software I know is Wings3D and it's boolean functions that would actually do this barely work.
When I have everything set up properly, try to subtract the volume of one mesh from another and it crashes there's not a huge incentive to keep going.

[Anonymous No.1546225]

>>1546077
I'm just using siepie's profile. The filament is from 3dfillies.com.au which is an Australian store

[Anonymous No.1546262]

>>1546225
>siepie's
Aye that's the one, I've seen people talking about it but I haven't seen any proper results yet
I'm been on the fence about buying a resin printer because apparently I'm DMing the next campaign and this time around our DM bought models for everyone so I plan to show him up one and print custom minis
that way he'll be so embarrassed he'll never let anyone else DM for our group

[Anonymous No.1546270]

>>1545162
What's the benefit of tilting it back?

[Anonymous No.1546272]

>>1546270
Supports will be angled which makes it a bit easier to remove them, also tends to support smaller bubbles a bit better imo

[Anonymous No.1546273]

>>1546270
I find it stops them delaminating at the wrist or ankles during cleanup, and thin pieces like swords are less prone to turning into blobby messes near the tip. Also it means the most of the rough surfaces are on the back, where it is less important, visually, and often less of a chore to clean up

[Anonymous No.1546298]

Excluding Revoltech, what kinds of action figure joints can I buy in bulk to insert into my prints instead of trying to print joints or use tool store hardware?

[Anonymous No.1546317]

>>1544877
Interesting.
Are you msking a jet model or a functional fan?

As for support marks you should tweak the gap value so it would delaminate easily.
Good support should pop off the print rather tha be fused to it.

[Anonymous No.1546350]

>>1543722
it's an artistic nudity model you can find on thingiverse without any nsfw tags anon, chill

[Anonymous No.1546352]

>>1543645
you could cast the dildo in silicone
either print a negative of the thing or make a cast

medical grade silicone costs about 30-35€ per kg

[Anonymous No.1546437]

Been fussing around with "Master Spool" filament lately. Most of the printable spools other people have modeled are either too large for me to print, print like garbage on the one printer I have that's big enough, or require buying a pile of hardware.

I tossed together one designed around hardware I already have and it's okay, but I'll probably chuck it in a drawer when the spool runs out. I ended up designing a much better one last night.

[Anonymous No.1546444]

>>1546437
This one doesn't require any hardware, and you can print enough segments to turn it into a full perimeter spool, making it compatible with those fancy-pants ball-bearing spool holders.

Each part is small enough to fit a 120mm build area, and kept really simple so that they're easier to print.

[Anonymous No.1546453]

>>1546437
Why are you printing spools?

[Anonymous No.1546491]

>>1546317
>Are you msking a jet model or a functional fan?
Both, it's supposed to look somewhat like a jet and be a functional fan. I spent all of last year working out the blade angles. The jet look is important because it's cool.
>As for support marks you should tweak the gap value so it would delaminate easily.
Thanks, is this an option available in Slic3r? Where in the menu? I'm new to Slic3r.

[Anonymous No.1546519]

>>1546491
I use Cura but i think there should be an option to adjust that, it's a very standard feature.

[Anonymous No.1546533]

>>1546453
I could think of a couple of benefits; you can make sure the filament isn't tangled by hand winding it yourself. I seem to recall there's a couple of outfits selling the filament zip tied with no spool for a discount (though I can't recall who off the top of my head).

[Anonymous No.1546535]

>>1546533
Hand winding a spool is more likely to end up tangling it than just using a machine wound spool though. And in six years I've literally never seen anyone selling more than 200g of filament without a spool.

[Anonymous No.1546538]

>>1546535
Das Filament sells filament without spools.
They cost exactly the same as the one with spool though.

[Anonymous No.1546576]

>>1546538
>buy filament with spool
>return filament only, get money back
>free spool

[Anonymous No.1546579]

>>1546453
>Why are you printing spools?
3D Solutech sells filament without spools for $3 less per kilogram compared to the filament they sell on spools.

[Anonymous No.1546582]

>>1546538
filament without a spool is actually cheaper because you get 850g instead of 800g

[Anonymous No.1546586]

>>1546582
Ah, didn't notice that.
Still that's just 25 cent.

Costs more hardware and filament to print a spool.

[Anonymous No.1546610]

>>1546586
>Costs more hardware and filament to print a spool.
Like you don't have 4-5 empty spools just sitting around.

[Anonymous No.1546625]

>>1546610
>Like you don't have 4-5 empty spools just sitting around.
So why print your own spool?

[Anonymous No.1546632]

>>1546625
Why print your own car?

[Anonymous No.1546639]

>>1546632
>Why print your own car?
Because I already 4-5 spare cars sitting around.

[vocel No.1546648]

>>1544301
120° is pretty low for a steam turbine, so from an engineer's point of view, you might want to avoid classic fan blades and instead go for something like a reverse gear pump (pic related. You won't get very much pressure from this kind of temperature, so you'll want to use what you got to the maximum.

[vocel No.1546729]

>>1542439
Just re-read the OP, and I noticed the CAD program section.
AutoCAD and Inventor are free, too. There's this student program, which lets you download all of their software for free. Just register an account, put in some made-up info, a burner mail and any university, they don't (can't) check if it's correct.
I'm using Inventor for quite some time now and it's awesome.

[vocel No.1546733]

>>1546729
https://www.autodesk.com/education/free-software/featured

[Anonymous No.1546760]

>>1544152
>Tevo Tarantula
>$180-$200
>no part-cooling fan
>no enclosed board
>shit screen
>no heated bed
>shit frame
Do you people just blindly ignore suggestions on purpose? You should've just gotten an Ender 3 and been done with it.

[Anonymous No.1546762]

>>1546729
Thanks for the info. Does it work on Mac?

[vocel No.1546765]

>>1546762
Seems so with AutoCAD (pic related) but I think you have to use Parallels for Inventor.

[Anonymous No.1546821]

So, what's everyone's favourite thing they've printed?

[Anonymous No.1546822]

>>1542439

[Anonymous No.1546871]

>>1546437
>>1546444
I never understood the point of printing spool holders. Just about every roll of plastic I've seen comes with its own spool and you'd spend about half that to print a holder for the other half, then spend time re-spooling it to some unknown end. Why bother?

[Anonymous No.1546999]

how trash is the prusa mk3?

[Anonymous No.1547008]

>>1546999
is hating this printer a thing here? What's wrong with it?

[vocel No.1547027]

>>1546760
First of all, it isn't that bad. Also, I got a heated bed, which I paid an additional 40 bucks for.

Second, I only recently started lurking on /diy/, buying this printer was a decision completely independent from the suggestions in this general.

[Anonymous No.1547030]

>>1547027
It does seem to be a fairly popular printer.
I randomly stumble upon mods on thingiverse for it all the time.

[Anonymous No.1547037]

>>1546625
>So why print your own spool?
Because I'm buying filament without a spool, and I don't have any spools it would fit onto without having to wind it on.

[Anonymous No.1547040]

>>1546999
not trash at all

[Anonymous No.1547041]

>>1547008

Nothing, anon's mad cause they're expensive.

[Anonymous No.1547072]

>>1546999
It's a XZ-Head Y-bed machine.
Having the heavy bed on a fast axis hurts print quality.
In order to get the same quality as with a XY-Head Z-bed machine you need to go slower.

[Anonymous No.1547080]

>>1547072
why is Y the fast axis?

[Anonymous No.1547115]

>>1547080
Cos making the head XY and the bed Z involves twice as many pulleys and really solid engineering to get accuracy (see: core XY machines). Prusa style machines are relatively simple to make well.

[Anonymous No.1547117]

>>1547080
because most moves are done on the xy plane, so you would want the nozzle to move as fast as possible on these axes. the z-axis speed is usually negligible.

[Anonymous No.1547121]

I really want to buy an Ender 3, but I'm not good with mechanical things.
Are 3d printers hard to maintain and upgrade? It's definitely something I'd like to get into and learn more about, but I'm worried it might be something a bit too difficult for a brainlet like me to get into from the start.

[Anonymous No.1547125]

>>1547121
If you really want one then just buy it. I was too dumb to ever get an anet style printer kit to work, but I got the ender 3 going after a few hours. The kit is pretty straightforward, just make sure to level the bed or your prints wont work. I regret not buying one sooner, and for under $200 its hard not to get one. Just be ready to learn cad software so you actually have things to print on it.

[Anonymous No.1547126]

>>1546821
The butt plug I designed.

[Anonymous No.1547129]

>>1546579
Are they cheaper than the no named 1kg $10 ones om ebay?
Until then I'll never spend more than $15 on PLA

[Anonymous No.1547130]

>>1547126
Hello butt plug fren.
Curious, did you print the part directly or print for casting?
I recently tried printing one from TPU and it was no bueno. At this point I am pretty sure I will have to end up casting from silicone, or at least dipping the printed part. Guides online mention conformal spray coating, but I can't tell if those are safe for anything other than PCBs.

[Anonymous No.1547131]

>>1547129
>Are they cheaper than the no named 1kg $10 ones om ebay?
Nope, $15 shipped via Amazon.
I care about consistency of filament quality as well as color because I'm selling all of the parts I print.

[Anonymous No.1547132]

>>1547131
I sell parts too and the $10 rolls were good enough
However $15 for better quality isn't bad

[Anonymous No.1547138]

>>1547041
Why buy something expensive when you can buy two things thats the same quality?
>he must be mad

[Anonymous No.1547143]

>>1547130
I printed the part directly, but mostly as a novelty. I think to actually use it you'd want to put a condom over it. You can try coating it in amazing clear cast, its supposedly food safe. There's a store on etsy that sells printed plugs that are coated in some weird ceramic looking lacquer. I am actually about to cast it in silicone, but I'm deciding on the best way to smooth out layer lines. My positive prints have ugly seams, but even my negative molds have prominent layer lines. I'd also like to model some more gently curved dildos, but im not exactly a skilled sculptor.

[Anonymous No.1547144]

>>1547125
I should. I think actually having a printer in my posession will help me better understand, rather than just reading about them

[Anonymous No.1547158]

>>1547138
>the same quality

Except that it's not. It's more like 70% of the quality for 50% of the price. I get that an Ender3 is better bang-per-buck, but you never see Prusa owners going "oh yeah you just gotta upgrade this and this and you're golden."

[Anonymous No.1547165]

>>1547158
Except that's a lie. Look at reviews of the stock ender 3 print quality vs josef stalin mk3. The ender 3 prints better and the reviewer always makes up some excuse for the mk3 failings to justify the ridiculous price.

However if print quality isn't what you care about and you're going for comfort instead then yes the mk3 will be more comfortable for 4x the price of an ender 3.

[Anonymous No.1547174]

>>1547165

I was talking about build quality. You can get good print quality on cheaper/crappier machines than the ender3 - remember when the plexiglas Anet A8 was the hottest meme? People were happy with em.

The original Prusas *just werk*, i wouldn't buy one but i think they deserve the praise they get.

[Anonymous No.1547177]

>>1547143
Print it in ABS then throw it in a vapour chamber. Made a shity chamber using a big glass jar with magnets holding acetone soaked paper towels. If your making molds try polishing with acetone rags, hand polishing will bleed the colour from the ABS

[Anonymous No.1547194]

>>1547158
>It's more like 70% of the quality for 50% of the price.
Only a retard pulls percentages out of their ass like they're facts of life.
First off, how the fuck is one supposed to measure "quality"? We're all printing within the same parameters of resolution and size. The only real pro that the prusa has over an Ender or a CR10 line printer is it rides on cylindrical rails vs V-slot extrusions.... which is a plus, but it doesn't negate the fact that we're still printing FDM at 0.8mm layer-height at best.
We're at a point of diminishing returns in terms of FDM printing. Some of us handle that by appreciating the cheaper tech. Others(you) just can't handle the truth and lament your past purchases like spoiled children.

[Anonymous No.1547198]

>>1547121
There's only one glaring fault with the Ender 3, and it's the way the hotend was designed. There's a tube that butts right against the nozzle. If it isn't absolutely flat, it clogs. If it isn't all the way there, it clogs. If it isn't tight, it can clog.
Once you nail down how to handle that fault and deal with it accurately, it becomes a great printer. Cut your tubes flush with tools that can get the job done. Fit your nozzle and tubes on accurately and securely.
99.9% of the help posts I see on here and on leddit with Ender3 owners are the same fix for the same problem over and over and over and over again.

[Anonymous No.1547207]

>>1547143
I don't like butt plugs, once they're past the sphincter I don't feel anything.
>I'm deciding on the best way to smooth out layer lines
I recently bought XTC 3D, you could try that.
>>1547165
>ridiculous price
it's 900 bucks...

[Anonymous No.1547211]

>>1547174
>You can get good print quality on cheaper/crappier machines than the ender3

No you can't. And good isn't the best. You don't pay 4x more for something to just get 'good' results. I don't like making statements like this, but the ender 3 has the BEST print quality in it's class. To beat it you have to start getting into commercial SLS and resin printers.

>>1547194
>FDM at 0.8mm layer-height at best.

I hope that was a typo and you meant 0.08mm.. because the ender 3 will print at 0.05mm layer height with the stock 0.4mm hotend.

[Anonymous No.1547212]

>>1547211
>but the ender 3 has the BEST print quality in it's class.
Cheap deltas can match its quality.

[Anonymous No.1547215]

>>1547207
>it's 900 bucks...
And the ender 3 can be found for as low as $160 with coupons. It's a ridiculous price that is completely counter to the spirit of the reprap project. I'm glad prusa made the original i3 design so that we can have all these cheap chink clones, but he hijacked a project based on putting cheap manufacturing technology in the hands of the broke and turned it into a personality cult. I mean he signs his fucking printers for Ceaușescu's sake.

[Anonymous No.1547243]

>>1545224
Ender 3 shilling faggot here. I've started looking closer into why exactly nearly every single ender 3 bed comes warped from the factory... or does it?

If you look at the bed when it's mounted with no spring tension on it, it is clearly off level and dipping severely towards the left back side. I checked the springs, they are more or less the same height, so this either means that the carriage itself is warped... or more likely it is not sitting level either.

[Anonymous No.1547246]

>>1547243
Those big wheels below the springs? They're for turning. Turning them tightens and loosens the screw and raises or lowers that side of the bed. This is called "levelling the bed".

[Anonymous No.1547247]

>>1547243
And we start getting to the meat of the problem. I think carriage is sitting off level because the lengths of the spacers and eccentric nuts are not the same. And so people compensate by over tightening some of the corners to get the bed to sit level on the not level carriage. I've seen video's where people say they modified the z limit switch so they could get the head lower and just torqued down on all the springs.

This is the wrong approach; the carrier is made of hardened steel while the bed is aluminum and way more likely to flex under the spring tension. A couple of washers should fix this.

[Anonymous No.1547249]

>>1542508
>>1542545
Btw you should use led blue light that wakes you up the most; scientifically proven btw

[Anonymous No.1547250]

>>1547243
>nearly every single ender 3 bed comes warped from the factory... or does it?
Its more a combination of inner stress that get it bent by heaing it or locally pressurising it on the center with every print, its more of a general cheap printer problem.

[Anonymous No.1547251]

>>1547246
And it's the wrong thing to do. People (lets be honest "makers" who don't know their head from their ass) are treating this thing like an appliance and not a machine tool by ignoring the physics involved. You want all parts of it to be as square as possible so that you don't have to compensate using spring tension or ABL or mesh bed leveling.

[Anonymous No.1547274]

Anyone got any guesses how Prusa is making a UV SLA 3D printer with an LCD mask? I measured absorption of an LCD panel and found it to be essentially 100% at 405 and 385. Are they using custom panels or something?

It's supposed to be an open source design but I haven't been able to find any documentation on it. If I've been looking in the wrong spot and anyone knows where to find, please fill me in.

[Anonymous No.1547297]

i need to upgrade to an actual decent printer, what would you recommend for under 300?
just printing miniatures and small gifts
id like a print bed thats larger than 6"x6"x6"

[Anonymous No.1547300]

>>1547297
ender 3

[Anonymous No.1547306]

>>1547300
oh shit how have i not found that
ive heard ender was good, what quality can i expect on the prints?

[Anonymous No.1547307]

>>1547306
bretty gud

[Anonymous No.1547308]

>>1547307
awesome, thank you for the info
what are your thoughts on the ender3 pro?

[Anonymous No.1547311]

>>1547308
not really worth it, save the money and put it towards a glass bed on regular ender (aka render)

[Anonymous No.1547312]

>>1547251
What? Don't you have to have to tram a mill too? I'd think that leveling the bed is effectively squaring the printer but maybe I'm misunderstanding things.

[Anonymous No.1547343]

>>1547207
>900 bucks
Sorry, what? That number isn't anywhere on on the site, not even converting to AUS or CAD gets you closer than about a $50 margin.

[Anonymous No.1547347]

>>1547215
Nigga is just feeding his family, don't hate. That is a reasonable price for high tech equipment manufactured in a small scale workshop in Central Europe. You can't compare it to what comes out of chink factories.

[Anonymous No.1547348]

>>1547343
The site shows me £699 for the kit, that's $915.

[Anonymous No.1547351]

>>1547343
Oh yeah you don't have VAT in burgerland, it's $750 then, even cheaper, what are you complaining?

[Anonymous No.1547355]

>>1547351
dumb gay fag go fuck your hat

[Anonymous No.1547361]

>>1547348
First time I've ever heard anyone refer to GBP as 'bucks', so I was thrown off by that

>>1547351
>noticing something is off is complaining

[Anonymous No.1547376]

>>1546298
aren't figma joints available in bulk?

[Anonymous No.1547402]

>>1547343
I have used XTC before. Its ice but you need multiple passes with sanding and applying a new layer.
It might stay sticky for days, you can try leaving it on the sunlight to cure it. I put it in the oven at 90C for a couple of hours and the stickiness was gone.

[Anonymous No.1547425]

>>1547211
>No you can't.

Look up old high-detail Yoda head prints from 2013, we've been able to produce good prints at layer heights of 50 microns using rickety threaded rod "mendels" for awhile now. The main achievement in home printing since then has been in making designs that are more reliable for a lower cost.

[Anonymous No.1547427]

>>1547425
>mendel
Oh man, a new co-worker brought his old "Prusa" in, turned out to be a Mendel. Everybody was wondering what he meant when he said that his didn't look like any of the ones we have or are listed online (MK2/3), was quite an experience.

[Anonymous No.1547432]

>>1547427

Not sure if you were around in the early days, but that thing was considered revolutionary, because it was a simplified "easy to build" version of the original (Sells) mendel.

Around 2011 i went to this event where a local hackerspace was showcasing the Sells Mendel they built after managing to somehow obtain a "kit" from the netherlands. In their words, said "kit" was literally a bag of parts, some of them wrong/missing, but they managed to get it to work. The person doing the presentation said "if only you could design a machine made out of lasercut acrylic sheets, it will be the future"... Pellet extruders were also being discussed, as a spool of filament could easily cost 80-100$. Fun times

[Anonymous No.1547436]

>>1547432
I wasn't familiar with the different kinds of Mendels but knew they existed; my first experience with a 3D printer was in 2011/2012 when my school had some kind of Stratasys (I forget which); a year or two later, the Printrbot LC came onto the market and I got one. Don't really know how I managed to miss the "Gen 2" 3D printers.

Related: went to try and find a picture of the Mendel, as I thought it was the first consumer kit - turns out there's something even earlier, the RepRap Darwin. My, how far we've come.

[Anonymous No.1547439]

>>1547436
God, is that a geared motor as extruder?

[Anonymous No.1547442]

>>1547361
I converted it because this is an American website. 700 quid = 900 bucks.

[Anonymous No.1547444]

>>1547402
Really? Says on the box you don't need to sand though

[Anonymous No.1547458]

>>1547436

Yeah Darwin was the very first working RepRap, not many were made as they were still university research models at that point. The Mendel came after it (which we now retroactively call Sells because of its inventor Ed Sells).

I'm still using a MendelMax and it works fine, with things like hotend updates over the years. There's nothing an Ender3 has to offer that i can't do on the max, and that model first came out in 2011. Mostly the price of the hobby has come down immensely - i spent about 1200$ to get all the parts for my printer in 2014, and that was considered normal for a decent one back then...

[Anonymous No.1547464]

So I recently got an Anycubic Photon resin printer, mostly for tabletop Miniatures. Did 1 print that was a 50% failure. Learned I need to hollow out my stuff.

Do I need to make supports like people use for FDM prints?

Looking to ensure my next print works better.

[Anonymous No.1547467]

>>1547274
The part of the LCD that absorbs your 405 and 385nm UV is the polarizers. You can get polarizers that work for those wavelengths. However there is a reason the polarizers absorb UV. That is that UV degrades the LCs themself.
So if its a custom job without filters it will be a consumable.
I expect it to use visible light curing resin only, but since Prusa seems to be all about marketing and not about publishing the source who knows.

>>1547458
tfw bought a M2 for 1400$ in 2012 and they are 2000$ now.

[Anonymous No.1547470]

>>1547464

Of course, it's the same principle except the print is upside down. The main difference is you normally use tree supports because they use up less material and snap off more easily.

[Anonymous No.1547498]

>>1547467
Do you know if it's feasible to remove the polarizer from an LCD and replace it with one that doesn't filter UV? If not I'm guessing it's a custom LCD which sounds like a pain in the ass to emulate.

[Anonymous No.1547501]

>>1547498
people have successfully removed polarizers from LCD screens. However it realy depends on the adhesives used and how robust the LCD itself is.

[Anonymous No.1547516]

Do they give out coupons for the Prusa MK3? Maybe free shipping?

[Anonymous No.1547524]

Just finished my mk2s build and i'm seeing two errors, a bed thermal runaway when i tried to up the bed to 80c and for some reason the prints come out wavy, pic related is supposed to be a boaty and the line on the left is supposed to be almost vertical.

[Anonymous No.1547525]

>>1547165
>The ender 3 prints better and the reviewer always makes up some excuse for the mk3 failings to justify the ridiculous price.
nigga wtf u on about

[Anonymous No.1547527]

>>1547524
souldn't it "just work"?

[Anonymous No.1547529]

>>1547436
>this computer
>this video quality
Was 2007 really this primitive?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mo5Hp_6uD-E

[Anonymous No.1547530]

>>1547524
>thermal runaway
I thought the firmware prevented that?

[Anonymous No.1547531]

>>1547524
The bed thermal runaway seems to be caused by the cooling fan blowing too much cold air on it, i turned the fan off and the bed keeps its temperature up just fine.

[Anonymous No.1547533]

>>1547527
It's a kit and i'm using non standard settings so idk
>>1547530
Thermal runaway error is when the printer thinks that the temp the sensor is reporting is false, ie. If the sensor keeps reporting only 60C eventhough the bed is getting full current.

[Anonymous No.1547534]

>>1547524
Looks like yer x axis is missing steps. Check the belt tension.

[Anonymous No.1547535]

>>1547534
belts tight af

[Anonymous No.1547537]

>>1547535
Loosen it a bit.

[Anonymous No.1547542]

>>1547537
Could this really be caused by belts being too tight? Imo their tightness is just right.

[Anonymous No.1547543]

>>1547542
post pic of its electronics pls.

[Anonymous No.1547546]

>>1547542
That is hilarious.

[Anonymous No.1547548]

>>1547543
Uhh alright, why though?

[Anonymous No.1547549]

>>1547548
to see if there are current adjustment pots on the drivers. It seems like this is not the case.

[Anonymous No.1547550]

>>1547549
pic rel is the mainboard
and btw i can confirm that the motor was not loosing steps while printing, you ought to be able to see that from the weird way those layers are misaligned anyway

[Anonymous No.1547551]

>>1547524
>>1547542
https://reprap.org/wiki/Shifted_layers

[Anonymous No.1547552]

>>1547550

[Anonymous No.1547556]

>>1547551
dude come on..

[Anonymous No.1547557]

>>1547556
what? its a seroius list of possible faults.
My best guess would be loose grub screw at this point.

[Anonymous No.1547572]

>>1547243
My bed isn't flat when mounted, haven't looked at it unmounted.
>>1547247
>carrier is made of hardened steel
Nah, it's normal steel. Why would they go to the effort to harden it?

I see the main problem that there are 4 adjusting points and not 3 paired with too thin aluminum
When you have 4 mount points you are likely to get tension stress on the plate, which then warpes the bed in the mounted state.
Having only 3 mounting points would eliminate this.
3 screw mods are also a thing.

On top of that comes the problem that the removeable flexbed doesn't lay flat on the aluminum. It's only held down by the outer clamps and you are likely to have gaps to the aluminum in some spots.
A magnetic one would fix that, because it holds it down on the whole surface.
There is a magnetic bed upgrade for the ender, I might try that out

The y axis is also dogshit. 4 rollers arent enough to hold the bed carrier. 3 in the front and 3 in the back would be good.

[Anonymous No.1547576]

>>1547542
nice vaporwave asthetics

[Anonymous No.1547579]

>>1547533
So even a Prusa can burn my house down?

[Anonymous No.1547580]

>>1547576
Kek.

[Anonymous No.1547581]

>>1547579
no you are completely misunderstanding
when the screen reads mintemp error that means that the board thinks that the sensor is not showing correct temperatures and it turns off the heater for safety

[Anonymous No.1547582]

>>1547579
Any printer can is the thermal runaway isn't set properly. The printer needs to shut down when it detects (almost) full current going into the bed or hotend heater without any noticable increase in temperature. Most likely this means that the thermistor is broken, which means the heater cartridge is probably heating up rapidly. Even an Ultimaker or something can have this happen, but as long as the thermal runaway protection is set up properly, this should not be a problem since it shuts down the system before anything can be set on fire.

[Anonymous No.1547585]

>>1547579
The thermal runaway error is what prevents your house from burning down. It is disabled on some chink printers because of false positves on bad hardware, leading to an actual thermal runaway happening sometimes without getting caught.

[Anonymous No.1547602]

oh yeah it was the grub screw, of fucking course it was the grub screw
been in this hobby for a year already and still dumb shit like this gets past me

[Anonymous No.1547606]

>>1547165
One more time because you seem very resistant to the reality around you.

Advantages i3 mk3 over the ender 3:
Better linear rails, better extruder, autoleveling, flex magnetic bed, an actual comprehensive manual, a lot quiter, better support, non chink, thermal runaway protection, filament runout sensor, etc. etc.

Advanteges Ender 3 over the i3 MK3:
- cheaper
- ???

I wouldn't recommend the Ender 3 over the i3 MK3 for any other reason than budget.

The Ender 3 is a printer for cheaping out hobbyists with too much time. The i3 MK3 is for anybody else.
Both printers are good value, both have their place.

I'm very happy with my Ender 3 but this machine certainly isn't the answer to FDM.

>josef stalin
grow up

[Anonymous No.1547622]

>>1547530
>>1547579

Here's a simple illustration:
>Prusa i3: "Help my hair is on fire!"
>Chinese Printer: *hair is on fire but doesn't notice*

[Anonymous No.1547624]

>>1547572
>A magnetic one would fix that, because it holds it down on the whole surface.
>There is a magnetic bed upgrade for the ender, I might try that out

It's a shit meme, magnetic build surfaces are fancy refrigerator magnets and come loose when the part pulls on them during printing. I remounted and tensioned my bed after sanding and it is much flatter than before; turns out it was really just warped from the factory.

>>1547525
>nigga wtf u on about
This is what I'm on about >>1547542
I would have to beat my ender 3 with a hammer to get it to print as well as this quality prusa product.

[Anonymous No.1547639]

>>1547624
>This is what I'm on about >>1547542
you're really saying that the first print out of a kit is representative of a printers print quality?

[Anonymous No.1547650]

>>1547542
>>1547646

Yes you can tighten the belts too much. If it's so tight that the steppers don't have enough force to turn properly, you get skipped steps. But most likely it's insufficient motor current. If you RTFM'd like >>1547551 suggested you'd see it's listed as No.1 culprit.

[Anonymous No.1547651]

>>1547650
>>1547602

[Anonymous No.1547654]

>>1547639
It was a joke.

>>1547606
>Advantages i3 mk3 over the ender 3:
Better linear rails, better extruder, autoleveling, flex magnetic bed, an actual comprehensive manual, a lot quiter, better support, non chink, thermal runaway protection, filament runout sensor, etc. etc.

And yet none of that results in a better print.
>hurr here is my non chink cult guitar, it's super comfortable to use but it doesn't actually sound that good

You can buy a board upgrade with trinamic drivers, a bltouch, flex magnetic bed, a filament runout sensor etc and still be under half the price of a prusa mk3 kit for the whole thing. At this point you guys are just perpetuating this cult prusa is trying to grow. I mean holy shit his filament is called prusament. The only thing this guy is interested in is having his name on as many things as possible.

[Anonymous No.1547657]

>>1547654
>You can buy a board upgrade with trinamic drivers, a bltouch, flex magnetic bed, a filament runout sensor etc and still be under half the price of a prusa mk3 kit for the whole thing.
Unless you value your time at a reasonable $/hr rate, in which case it comes out about even. Most hobbyists should not do this, but for professional users stuff like Lulzbot, Prusa and Ultimaker makes perfect sense since it's not worth an employees time to keep them running, improve print results or make them more reliable. The Ender 3 is a hobbyists printer on a budget, the Prusa is for a hobbyist with a big budget or a pro with a tight budget.
Prusa just knows his name is out there right now, he doesn't want to put his name on there for the sake of marketing his name - he's using it to market products, like any sane businessman.

[Anonymous No.1547682]

>>1547444
You dont if you get the first coat right. But its nearly impossible.

My experience is its a little bit too runny to apply it so thick that hides layer lines in one go.
Either you sand the print and coat it in one layer but sanding might make bits/dust (yes i cleaned off the dust) poking through the coating. This will require a new coating or sanding the first coating and hoping dust wont poke through.
Or you coat the print without sanding, and apply a second coat to smooth out the layer lines.

>>1547464
How did it fail, that could help coming up with better supports.
Auto generated supports works okay most of the time if you are using the photon slicer. You might need to plunk down some extra on some places and pluck some supports that touches the parts.

>>1547458
Nice graph

[Anonymous No.1547683]

>>1547542
Please include this in the new threads collage.

[Anonymous No.1547773]

Collage for next thread

[Anonymous No.1547775]

>>1547542
>>1547551
>>1547556
>>1547557
>>1547602
Like pottery

[Anonymous No.1547828]

Now that's more like it.
I personally don't require a higher quality from my prints so the provided settings are fine.

[Anonymous No.1547838]

>>1547828
Woah there's even a tiny wheel in there.
Haven't bothered to waste plastic on boatys before but i guess this thing is kinda neat

[Anonymous No.1547876]

>>1547657
His company is called prusa research, his store is titled "the store of josef prusa". All of his products have his name.

>Hi my name is steve jobs, this is my company "jobs research", these are my product the "jobs pod", the "jobs phone" and the "jobs book" and you can buy them from my store "the steve jobs store"

[Anonymous No.1547878]

>>1547838
>>1547828
That looks like shit. Prusa owners should feel bad.

[Anonymous No.1547897]

>>1547878
post an fdm boaty that looks better

[Anonymous No.1547898]

>>1547876
Prusa has a nice ring to it, just like Apple
that's all there is to it

[Anonymous No.1547931]

What is this stupid Ender 3 vs Prusa console wars garbage clogging up this thread. How dense do you have to be tie your identity to 3d printer models. They're different tools for different price points and different needs. What even goes through someones mind to get so upset about the fact that a guy named his company after himself, or that someone else might want something else from the printer they buy. You would have to be a total smoothbrain to claim that neither has a place in the market, they are both rational purchases and solid printers.

[Anonymous No.1547939]

>>1547773
inb4 deleted because of tits

[Anonymous No.1547953]

>>1547622
More like the Chinese printer is working despite being on fire because a commissar is standing with a gun to his head. They use subpar components and deliberately disable these safety features to make it work.

[Anonymous No.1547955]

>>1547828
My CTC DIY (an Anet A8 clone, which is itself a Prusa mk2 clone) printed like that directly after I assembled it, and that's like a seventh the price of your Prusa.

[Anonymous No.1547959]

>>1547955
What is that even supposed to mean? Your printers both malfunction similarly? Are you for some reason threatened that another person bought a more expensive printer than you did?

[Anonymous No.1547961]

>>1547959
It means that a Prusa is a waste of money. You can buy chinkshit and get the same quality.

[Anonymous No.1547970]

>>1547961
Thats a pretty silly opinion to be honest, especially considering the fact that you're comparing failed prints and not successful ones. Your printer is objectively inferior, in every regard except price. It has an acrylic frame that is far less rigid than the prusa's metal one, and is also absolutely going to crack and need replacement. It has nothing but counterfeit parts and also likely suffers from the A8's fire risk issues. It also lacks the prusa's quality of life features. Its okay though, if you are fine with making compromises on print quality, ease of use, and safety then the cost savings make sense. I mean both your printers will put out models that are roughly comparable, and they both serve a need, but its pretty disingenuous to claim that since its possible for both of them to out out a failed print that they're equivalent.

[Anonymous No.1547980]

>>1547970
My CTC is a plywood frame, actually, which is even more hilarious. It's held up well for two years though, which is more than many Prusas on the forum, it's only recently that I've needed to start replacing parts that aren't nozzles (the extruder driver released its magic smoke). When the plywood starts failing I can just cut out replacement bits, it really isn't a complicated assembly. If for the money of one Prusa mk3 I could buy myself fourteen years worth of CTC knockoffs, that's pretty good considering the lifespan of a design like this is way lower than that anyway.

Also, you keep going on about failed prints for some reason? >>1547838 is the print in question, while I wouldn't call it amazing it isn't a failure, and the guy who made it was happy with it. My CTC also printed like that, then the quality became great after I printed a cooler fan for it and added a strut to the x support rib. Pretty basic stuff.

My point is, Prusas are overpriced. Chinese rubbish is way cheaper and matches the quality.

[Anonymous No.1548020]

>>1547458
>printers that use polar coordinates
>scara arm printers

bruh sound effect #2

[Anonymous No.1548080]

>>1547955
Post proofs

[Anonymous No.1548127]

>>1547654
Why do we have three 20k$ Stratasys printers at work? (Automotive interieur)
Do they have better print quality than an Ender 3?
No they don't.
You spend the 20k on reliabillity and guaranteed functionality and thats where the 20k are invested good. You can focus on other important things when you don't have to worry about the printer.
Recently one axis failed on one of the printers. Give them a call and the technician is there in 24h and gets your machine up and running again.
We can't afford waiting customers because of prints that may fail.

Different customers have different needs. Most just want to spend $$ on a machine that just werks so they don't have to worry about it.

The manual of the Ender doesn't even say how to tighten the excentric nuts making it very hard for a newcomer to get prints out of it without external resources.

>hacking in all sorts of shit into an Ender
You got to invest lots of hours into that and once you're done nobody helps you with the clusterfuck you just created.
Even with all the upgrades, and Ender 3 will still have the shitty V-Slot construction with rubber rollers on anodized extruded aluminum. I wouldn't dump too much money and time into a construction like that.

[Anonymous No.1548135]

>>1547876

I think capitalizing on the name has been a good move because it has obviously worked to distinguish his product from the millions of chinese clones with the same name, which is no easy task. The part where the trademark is his name makes him look like a bit of a ham, but it has also made him into sort of a celebrity.

The J-Head guy had a really hard time with the chinks making shit copies of their design and at one point tried renaming the hotend to "Black Quasit" which nobody remembered. Good thing they're back to using the J-Head trademark

[Anonymous No.1548137]

>>1548127
>20k$ Stratasys printer
>guaranteed functionality
To a point. A school I was at had one that broke down and they couldn't get service for shit since they stopped support for it. At that point you are fucked propper.
Also you get to pay for their proprietary filament. Whats the price on it anyways? I see off brand refill packs with an eeprom at 150$/kg

[Anonymous No.1548154]

>>1547898
>prusa is catchy like apple

Lmao Josef is that you? You would've done better naming your company benchy research. What's with this stupid personality cult you're trying to grow?

[Anonymous No.1548157]

>>1548137
What school?
We have the exact same situation.

[Anonymous No.1548166]

>>1548157
I'm not gonna dox myself.

[Anonymous No.1548203]

Can an fdm machine do better than this?

[Anonymous No.1548206]

>>1548203
obviously, yes

[Anonymous No.1548208]

>>1548206
really? are you sure?
because i'm not quite sure

[Anonymous No.1548210]

>>1548203
>stringing
>uneven layers
>details disappeared
>brim not fully compressed
>straggly lines in brim
>layer height too big for certain arches
>did I mention stringing?

[Anonymous No.1548214]

>>1548210
yeah but methinks those faults would be there on any fdm machine
the tail has a diameter of 1mm for example, of course there's gonna be stringing

[Anonymous No.1548216]

>>1548214
>yeah but methinks those faults would be there on any fdm machine
Nope. With correct retraction, you can eliminate stringing. The brim is not fully compressed which means you bed it not level or your nozzle is a bit too high. Layer height can be tuned down for a bit more resolution, and you could use a smaller nozzle too. Finally, the uneven layers suggest something's fucky with your Z-axis.

[Anonymous No.1548217]

>>1548216
what does the uneven layers part mean?

[Anonymous No.1548221]

>>1548217
He just told you; you've got something up with your Z axis. Check that your guide rails aren't loose (or maybe just slow down your print a notch).

[Anonymous No.1548222]

>>1548203
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=90&v=Lsa-PXAXdKY

[Anonymous No.1548225]

anyone have ideas for transmitting power across a printed threaded connection? i'm thinking of a 3d printed flashlight form factor, similar to the metal ones where you unscrew the base to take out the D cells (or an 18650). also open to alternatives that keep the cylindrical form factor.

[Anonymous No.1548228]

>>1548217
Pic related, the layers are uneven in that some overlap while others don't. Uneven extrusion may be a cause, but it looks like a direct extruder Prusa so I'd sooner bet on issues with the Z axis. If the Z axis doesn't give a consistent layer height, some layers get squashed more than others, which leads to some overlapping and some not - a very rough surface finish.

[Anonymous No.1548244]

dis gon b gud

[Anonymous No.1548256]

>>1548244
enjoy cancer

[Anonymous No.1548269]

>>1548256
elaborate

[Anonymous No.1548270]

>>1548228
but if the z-axis is at fault, wouldn't that mean it would be visible over the whole layer, not just in some places of it? or the z motor keeps moving, but that would be odd.

[Anonymous No.1548273]

>>1548270
If there's play in the Z-axis the motor may be stationary, but the carriage might have a still move up to 0.1mm, which will definitely show up in your prints.

[Anonymous No.1548279]

>>1548269

That plastic is gonna be lit

[Anonymous No.1548288]

>>1548244
>print in PLA
>bowl & stem get hot enough to soften plastic
>bowl falls out onto grungy stoner carpet, too stoned to notice
Enjoy your cancer from house fire

[Anonymous No.1548297]

Is PETG okay to make printer parts out of, or should I go for a more rigid plastic like PLA or ABS?

[Anonymous No.1548314]

Just got an ender 3, the stepper driver seems to not be sending signals to the extruder motor. Im not really finished troubleshooting it but the stepper motor itself works.
>what are you asking
if i end up needing to replace the driver, which one should i go for?

[Anonymous No.1548315]

What now?

[Anonymous No.1548317]

>>1548297
PLA < PETG < ABS
unless you cook the PLA, but it will shrink it.

[Anonymous No.1548319]

>>1548317
Do you mean that ABS is best then? < means greater than, but from your text I get the impression that you intend it to mean "arrow"?

[Anonymous No.1548325]

>>1548297

Yes, but you either have to design the parts with chunkier walls where needed and/or use more perimeters.

[Anonymous No.1548326]

>>1548319
Strength wise, PLA is the weakest, PETG is stronger, and ABS is the strongest.
A < B means A inferior to B or B superior to A if you prefers, yes.
What do you mean by I mean "arrow"?

[Anonymous No.1548328]

>>1548279
>>1548288
Did you ever take a bong hit?
There'll obviously be a aluminum chillum sitting in a rubber grommet. The printed plastic wount heat up at all.

>PLA
Currently printing in M4P high temp PETG @ 255°C because thats what I had on the printer.

[Anonymous No.1548331]

>>1548328
>Did you ever take a bong hit?

I haven't, so you're probably right

[Anonymous No.1548338]

>>1548326
I just got confused by "cooking". I understand now that you meant it more literally, making the print stronger by sticking it in the oven.
>>1548317
>>1548325
Cheerios, my choice is between PLA and PETG so I'm going with PETG. I'll use high infill and loads of walls just in case, I'm replacing injection moulded ABS so I might as well.

[Anonymous No.1548344]

>>1548297
Dude the prusa printers are completely petg from what i know

[Anonymous No.1548348]

>>1548203
Post a link to the model and any one of us can show you

[Anonymous No.1548359]

>>1548315
Did you actually adjust the temperatures for each block? If so, that PLA has the best temperature range I've ever seen and I need to know what it is.

[Anonymous No.1548366]

>>1548359
I didn't personally adjust the temps I just used the gcode included here and I noticed the temps changing on the display of my ender 3
idk what im doing
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2493504

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073LKLDV7

[Anonymous No.1548374]

>>1548348
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:246198
There ya go, do take note that i printed it in 30% scale

[Anonymous No.1548377]

>>1548359
Didn't you know that you can print PLA all the way from 190C to 240-250C?

[Anonymous No.1548379]

>>1548315
Just use 210 for everything ordinary and if you need more speed and/or strength go to 230 or even 240

[Anonymous No.1548391]

>>1548366
Bridging temp is good to know but retraction temp is better for figuring out ideal temperature range

Though >>1548379 is right, if you're doing functional parts a higher temp will get better fusion between layers always

[Anonymous No.1548395]

Fusion 360

Tangent question on it, but is there any way to add color to sketches for export to SVG? (by plugin/addon I would assume)

Or even just a program that controls as nicely as Fusion 360 for the 2D world. Inkscape and Illustrator I find to be really obtuse in their controls, sure its easy to fill in things or color code, but trying to make a curve gets insanely stupid and takes all of 2 seconds in 360.

[Anonymous No.1548397]

>>1548395
Don't use a fucking CAD program for vector art anon. That's not the right tools for the job. Learn Illustrator or Inkscape better.

[Anonymous No.1548401]

>>1548395
Blender does curves and SVGs, might give that a go if Inkscape doesn't work

[Anonymous No.1548402]

Printer: Creality CR-10
Rafts: Yes
Supports: Yes
Resolution: .2
Infill: 100%

So for rafts would I select raft for "build plate adhesion type" in cura?

[Anonymous No.1548406]

>>1548401
Blender still isn't a 2D art program.
Just fucking learn illustrator. It really isn't that difficult.

[Anonymous No.1548410]

>>1548397
Yes I know its not meant for that, but Illustrator and Inkscape are rather shit in their own wayss. Particularly for vectors that are going to be gcode in the end. Curving a node should not be a several step process like it is in Inkscape. And Illustrator's interface has a hardon for being sleek over functional.

I'm not turning to 360 from an inability to use Inkscape or Illustrator. I'm doing so because they are ass backward. Lightburn is more specific to the function, but again runs into that limited controls problem.

Its weird there seems to be no truly good software in that region.

[Anonymous No.1548418]

>>1548410
Why the fuck do you need it colored if you're gonna be printing it out? Color doesn't matter then. I don't know what you want anon, you don't seem to either. And curves in Illustrator are piss easy

[Anonymous No.1548424]

>>1548410
>several step process
What are you trying to do? Creating a curve is as simple as clicking from where you want it to start in the direction you want it to go and about as far as the curve should be, then dragging from the place you want it to end in the direction the preview shows that you think look best. Easy peasy. Fine adjustments you can then do with the point select tool (the second cursor tool) and dragging on the handle. It's an art program, you need to treat it as such and accept that you should go by your eye for aesthetics rather than some kind of CAD-ish schematic.

[Anonymous No.1548426]

>>1548418
Curves weren't my issue with Illustrator. I've been using Illustrator for this for awhile. I just find it annoying and I don't really care for Adobe in general. I find 360's canvas controls better for example. So are Krita's for that matter but while vector based its more painting focused.

Lasers require color. That is how they know that not every line is suppose to cut threw at full power. That is how they know what to engrave or mark lightly.

I know exactly what I want. Fusion 360 sketch controls, ability to quickly define line properties, superior grid, but with color and the Photoshop/Illustrator layers and pen tool.

[Anonymous No.1548433]

>>1548426
Okay, if you insist on doing some weirdness then just draw it in Fusion360, take a screenshot, paste that into photoshop, colour it there (use the wand to make the background transparent, then lock transparency in the background layer and just paint over the lines), then ctrl+a and ctrl+c, ctrl+v into illustrator, make a trace, set it to grayscale (I assume, it can also do colour), and save that as an svg.

Enjoy your boomer-ish work process.

[Anonymous No.1548441]

>>1548426
So your question is unrelated to 3D printing completely and you haven't bothered to look for laser cutter specific tools. Gotcha.

[Anonymous No.1548492]

>>1548374
Give me about 90 minutes and I'll do one on a different printer and post results.

[Anonymous No.1548502]

>>1548492
>Creality Ender 3
If I have a duplicator i3 should I upgrade to this. Just $200. Linear rails are looking really attractive.

[Anonymous No.1548511]

New Thread
>>1548510

[Anonymous No.1549013]

>>1544877
Why would you print that vertically?

That would snap very easily

[Anonymous No.1549035]

>>1548203
Dude that looks like hot ass. Work on your slicer settings.

[Anonymous No.1549581]

If there was a 3d printer controller board that could be used with either a WiFi adapter or with a standard Ramps controller, and it was cheap and 32 bits... would you use it?

[Anonymous No.1549584]

>>1549581
>either a WiFi adapter or with a standard Ramps controller

Btw, not both at the same time.

What cheap controllers are there besides smart controller? Are there any that will use an i2c interface rather than the archaic 8080 interface (the one with lcd rs, rw, cs, d4, d5, d6, d7)?