/diy/ - Do It Yourself

[Anonymous No.1536012]

Shame on you Edition
Old thread: >>1532055
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy

>Need help with prints? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 7-1-2019]
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free:
https://www.blender.org/
https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/

[Anonymous No.1536041]

>>1536012
>tfw no /3dpg/

[Anonymous No.1536044]

>>1536041
Fuck I knew I forgot something

[Anonymous No.1536071]

>>1536044
you bring shame upon your famiry

[Anonymous No.1536074]

>>1536071
my famiry is dead, senpai-san

[Anonymous No.1536075]

>>1535829
>>1535830
>>1535840
Why is everyone hating on anon? Him like me (DaVinci anon) we just want a printer that works out of the box.

[Anonymous No.1536112]

>>1536075
>Why is everyone hating on anon?
Because DaVinci printers are SHIT. They're not the only prebuilt option, but they're definitely one of the worst in terms of company history.

The goobers defending them are guilty of creating a false duality or absurd excuses to defend their purchase decision. I've owned and worked with pre-built printers ranging in price from $200 to $2500. XYZ sells printers sells entry-level printers you can get tired of very quickly and then ditch in favor of something more worth your time and money.

That's all.

[Anonymous No.1536113]

>>1536075
>Why is everyone hating on anon?
Because DaVinci printers are SHIT. They're not the only prebuilt option, but they're definitely one of the worst in terms of company history.

The goobers defending them are guilty of creating a false duality or absurd excuses to defend their purchase decision. I've owned and worked with pre-built printers ranging in price from $200 to $2500. XYZ sells entry-level printers you can get tired of very quickly and then ditch in favor of something more worth your time and money.

That's all. Don't pretend they're anything other than that.

[Anonymous No.1536136]

>>1536074
because you shamed them too hard

[Anonymous No.1536151]

>>1536075
>we just want a printer that works out of the box
Then wait a couple more years, we are just now stepping out of the "early adopter" phase and into the "niche hobby for enthusiasts" phase, I'd give it 2 more years before we get into the "we cant maintain profit margins with just the repeat business of a handful of loyal customers so let's start dumbing down the hobby to appeal to the general public" phase
That's where you come in

[Anonymous No.1536158]

>>1535813
>Just admit that you have more money than time instead of making up bullshit reasons.
But that's precisely the reason I cited. I just want to use my 3D printer for my projects.

>>1535825
>>1535829
>>1535830
I'm a mechanical engineer. I know how a fucking 3D printer works. Honestly this thing is built more like a toy compared to the machines I work with, but I'm getting it because it's cheap.

>>1535840
>>1535964
I could work overtime to afford the extra $250 more quickly than I could put it together myself.

>>1536151
3D printing is old technology from the 1980's. It's only shit because the companies who make consumer 3D printers are shit. The industrial 3D printers that I have used are actually very nice and have none of this
>hurr durr you have to build it yourself and it's very unreliable and breaks all the time
bullshit. The only reason consumer 3D printing is still so shitty is because all these fedora wearing "makers" demand them to be shitty so that it will still be niche.

[Anonymous No.1536190]

>>1536158
They're just sad they didn't grow up when computers came in bags of discrete components and unpopulated PCBs, if they used PCBs at all and cope by involving themselves in things like this.

[Anonymous No.1536195]

>>1536158
>all these fedora wearing "makers" demand them to be shitty so that it will still be niche

Oh look it's that faggot who was sperging out about cura not having built in rulers because the sinister cabal of "makers" was involved in some conspiracy to keep the tech out of the hands of CAD/CAM experts.

[Anonymous No.1536201]

>>1536195
He's right, though.
I was in a recent ZOG meeting with my fellow neckbeards (we're all honorary Jews thanks to pushing open source communism), and convinced them that they should stop making money from 3d printing and keep it as unusable as possible.

[Anonymous No.1536210]

>>1535545
>>PVC filament
>>hotend had injector that sprays almost imperceptible amount of solvent directly ahead of the extruded filament
>>layer adhesion intensifies
>Any reason this wouldn't work other than the fact I don't see anyone making PVC filament
>I typically work with PVC to the exclusion of most materials

This sounds like a bad idea
Try it and post results, for great justice

[Anonymous No.1536212]

>>1536210
It sounds like it's a hazardous process that results in injection-strength parts.

[Anonymous No.1536216]

>>1536158
>The only reason consumer 3D printing is still so shitty is because all these fedora wearing "makers" demand them to be as cheap as possible
FTFY

[Anonymous No.1536239]

Does anyone else genuinely dislike this man. I am constantly bombarded by suggestions for his videos where he just prints a big version of whatever the current meme model on thingiverse is. The guy just seems clueless about 3d printing in general, and is completely willing to shovel out endless low effort content that gets shilled by youtube.

[Anonymous No.1536251]

>>1536239
>Does anyone else genuinely dislike this man
Yes, along with angus and other zoomtubers who are clueless idiots and put up videos without thoroughly checking what they are doing or talking about.

Anus on his first ender 3 build destroyed the bed by not assembling or leveling it correctly and then blamed the manufacturer, but even that is one step above what this faggot does which is nothing.

> I am constantly bombarded by suggestions for his videos

Along with that channel where some muslim chick buys amazon boxes and the other one where some guy lies through his teeth about how you can't see 4k etc. I hate what jew tube has become.

[Anonymous No.1536255]

>>1536239
Haven't seen any good 3D printing channel on youtube.

[Anonymous No.1536258]

>>1536158
> industrial 3D printers that I have used are actually very nice and have none of this bullshit
That's because they know they can make you pay out the nose for stupid nonsense, like suggesting the Fortus use a new build plate for each print or leaving meters of filament in the cartridge while judging it "empty".

>fedora wearing "makers" demand them to be shitty
WTF? What kind of backwards logic is this? Most actual Makers are people who want to spread technology and make it more accessible

[Anonymous No.1536259]

>>1536239
Get an add on called video blocker, it makes annoying channels go away.

[Anonymous No.1536261]

>>1536259
Why not just stop wasting your time on YouTube instead?

[Anonymous No.1536266]

>>1536239
>AS ALWAYS, HIGH FIVE!

[Anonymous No.1536270]

>>1536113
We've been through this already, their pro model is decent. And anon wasn't getting a DaVinci anyway, he wanted a prebuilt Prusa i3
>>1536151
So you want to keep 3D printing an inaccessible hobby full of elitist neckbeards? Why?
>>1536216
You can pick up an inkjet printer for 60 bucks and it's basically guaranteed to work for at least 3 years yet even these shitty barebones DIY kits set you back 300 bucks minimum and you repair and replace parts basically from day one. DIY does not make things cheap, mass production does. DIY makes things unreliable. But /3dpg/ hates ease of use and the general public won't bother with 3D printing unless it's easy therefore there is no market for it to be worth mass manufacturing hence price stays high and quality low. So anon is right, fedora neckbeards are holding back 3D printing.

[Anonymous No.1536273]

>>1536258
>"makers want to make it more accessible"
>guy is being flamed right now for buying a prebuilt prusa

[Anonymous No.1536281]

>>1536251
>>1536239
People call me a boomer but I swear to you cable was better than Youtube. At least there was some level of quality control.

[Anonymous No.1536283]

>>1536270
What's holding back 3d printing is that most people don't fucking need it.

Normal people have to print out a document or photo from time to time. But no one needs to print out some pre-made crap off thingiverse.

The only reason to own a 3d printer is to make your own parts. If you don't know how to use CAD or 3D modelling software, and most people don't, it's just a toy.

[Anonymous No.1536286]

>>1536273
>implying anons on a mongolian beef-smoking forum are anywhere close to the same level as people like Adam Savage and others who spend their free time and effort educating and helping people

[Anonymous No.1536317]

>>1536283
Maybe if scanning technology got cheap and reliable that could help boost sales.
>make clay model of part
>scan it
>print it
>easy

[Anonymous No.1536318]

>>1536251
I hate angus as well but I must admit he gave me some nice tips for better modeling. His latest vids have been as clickbait as it gets though

[Anonymous No.1536323]

>>1536317
>make clay model of part
>bake it

[Anonymous No.1536329]

>>1536323
it's air drying clay, we want to make this super easy.

[Anonymous No.1536333]

>>1536329
then use literal playdough.

[Anonymous No.1536334]

>>1536255
CNC kitchen is pretty good, he makes genuinely useful and well informed videos. I just watched one where he explained how to do finite element analysis to improve design strength.

[Anonymous No.1536337]

can anybody tell me if my ender 3 bed mount is on backwards? This is the way it came from the factory and when I used the auto home its probably about a centimeter off of the bed. The first thing I did was try to adjust the limit switch but it is bolted to the frame and cant be adjusted.

[Anonymous No.1536344]

>>1536337
Just checked, my bed is mounted in the exact same way. If your extruder isnt even touching the bed its probably a z-axis limit switch issue, check how far up its mounted on the left upright extrusion.

[Anonymous No.1536349]

>>1536344
I should have clarified better its not a z axis issue it would be touching the bed however it is a y axis issue the bed moves too far back so when it hits the switch the extruder isn't on the bed

[Anonymous No.1536352]

>>1536349
>when it hits the switch the extruder isn't on the bed
I don't have an Ender but both my printers do this, might be intentional

[Anonymous No.1536355]

>>1536349
Neither is mine, its around 2mm off the bed.

[Anonymous No.1536361]

>>1536355
>>1536352
ok this makes me feel a lot better
This is my first printer and I watched a video on how to level the bed and there was no mention of this

[Anonymous No.1536364]

>>1536361
I would say it's probably for "light maintenence" like cleaning crap off the nozzle or changing filaments so it's not splattered all over the print bed

[Anonymous No.1536406]

>>1536239

I don't dislike him, but i find his channel rather lame. The focus is mainly on printing random useless chotchkies, with maybe a product review here and there. "Algorithm friendly" content that generates clicks. I (and i'm guessing most anons here) prefer channels like Tom Sandladerer's that focus more on the technical aspects of maintaining a printer, with advice on things like how to pick a power supply or in-depth reviews and benchmarks on things like bed sensors, stepper drivers, hotends etc.

[Anonymous No.1536419]

When I set my retraction high enough for the filament to exit the heat break, it often doesn't manage to get pushed back into it, causing a clog.

Is this unavoidable with an all-metal hotend? Or am I doing something wrong?

[Anonymous No.1536422]

>>1536239
Not a fan, overproduced thin content and really awful hair. I like the little hobby guy channels where it's just some old guy pointing at parts of his printer and giving advice. (Bless you Chuck)

Angus provided some good starting tips for using simplify 3D but that's about it, not very useful otherwise.

[Anonymous No.1536423]

>>1536317
Or you can just learn to model in like, any number of free or pilferable programs and skip the scanning part. It isn't very hard.

[Anonymous No.1536424]

>>1536364
and so it doesn't crash into the bed if the bed is too high

[Anonymous No.1536426]

>>1536239
>used to program After Effects
>now does youtube full time
>has kids
how the mighty have fallen

[Anonymous No.1536465]

>>1536239
I don't dislike him, he's just so boring. Tried watching him a couple of times.

[Anonymous No.1536511]

>>1536423
I hate this attitude, not everyone finds CAD modelling easy or has the time or even cares enough to do it. We are talking about widening participation here, a pigheaded "just fucking learn it" attitude isn't going to get that aim anywhere.
Also free CAD software sucks
t. tried Freecad and trashed it for Solidworks instead

[Anonymous No.1536524]

>>1536259
Bless you anon.

[Anonymous No.1536532]

>>1536511
Fusion 360 is also free and reasonably robust

[Anonymous No.1536543]

>>1536511
>I hate this attitude
I see. So you hate pragmatism and prefer blind optimism. Screw learning a new skill, let's all just wait for perfect and affordable 3D scanners which will never actually exist at a price point the average lazy ass can afford. We sure do hate the independence afforded by the willingness to Do-It-Yourself on the Do-It-Yourself board.
>tried Freecad and trashed it for Solidworks
Yeah, and I went out and tried a Yugo and rather than jumping up a tier or two in make or model I bought a Lamborghini and feel fully justified in my decision by continuing to compare it to only the Yugo.

[Anonymous No.1536554]

>>1536511
>"just fucking learn it" attitude
Well... CAD has a learning curve because it's a very powerful thing.
We can either demand that people get past that learning curve, and accept that it will always be a barrier to entry.
Or we can demand that software be dumbed down and made easier to use, making it easier to learn at the cost of fewer features and no advanced functionality.
That would be awful for people who do know quite a lot about CAD / modeling, as functionality that we use would gradually disappear from most CAD suites because it's "too complicated" or "not a commonly used feature".

But I do agree with you about free CAD software. 95% of it's shit. After learning on and primarily using Inventor, I could barely stand Fusion when I tried it because of the lack of functionality and completely different workflow.
Free stuff like Fusion's probably alright if you've never tasted the power of paid software; like people who swear by GIMP but have never tried Photoshop.

[Anonymous No.1536559]

I got my bed screws but everything isn't lining up somewhere and the heat sink on the new hotend twists a bit when it moves around the bed
It's all still tight and the nozzle is completely against the heatbreak, at least as far as I can tell, but I think the old bracket is like 1-2mm too small and it's not allowing everything to sit just right
Is there anyone that would be willing to print me one of these so I can get this thing back together
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2118968

[Anonymous No.1536573]

>>1536511

I get what this anon is saying but man... I can't imagine being a 3d printer owner and not being able to model anything. It sort of ties into the point someone else made that 3d printing will never be for normies. Scanning sounds like a good idea at a first glance but it's really an old pipe dream, even with the best scanner you're never going to get proper parametrically defined shapes with sharp edges. It mostly works for figurines but that's about it.

[Anonymous No.1536575]

How likely will I burn my house down if I leave my ender 3 printing overnight?

[Anonymous No.1536584]

>>1536575
If it's an actual creality brand machine then it's very unlikely
If it's one of the cheap chink clones then I'd turn it off

[Anonymous No.1536586]

>>1536575
I had mine running for 3 days on a wooden bench and somehow didn't die. Check your XT60 connector ahead of time though, especially if you're running high temps on the bed

[Anonymous No.1536587]

>>1536584
I got it from banggood US warehouse

[Anonymous No.1536589]

>>1536543
>Screw learning a new skill, let's all just wait for perfect and affordable 3D scanners which will never actually exist at a price point the average lazy ass can afford
That's just life deal with it. Stuff like computers would never have gone mainstream without "lazy ass shit" like a GUI. The vast majority of people are plebs therefore if you try to force people to learn something in order to use your product most will simply never bother buying it

[Anonymous No.1536597]

>>1536589
>That's just life deal with it.
3D printers are a tool, just like any other kind of CNC equipment is also a tool. They're never going to become as easy-to-use or as ubiquitous as coffee makers because they're not simplistic enough in either process or user interaction. And attempts to dumb it down to try and reach that point only end up stifling or limiting the capabilities of the equipment.
Because their niche of usefulness is in how adaptable they are compared to any other process.
They're a complete waste of time and money if they're not used to their strength. And that strength directly depends on you being able to design the part that you need produced in small quantities. Parts that would be completely unaffordable through any other process.

Does free software typically suck? Sure. It has little incentive to be anything other than basic? Is really expensive software very capable? Sure, but it's not the only alternative that exists.

You seem unwilling or incapable of discerning that there is a middle ground on any topic. There's free software, there's Solidworks, and there are plenty of titles inbetween in both price and capability. Just like there are with 3d printers.

I personally prefer pre-built printers only because I buy them to produce parts I've designed that I need to sell immediately. So I need the printers to generate revenue as soon as possible. I don't want 3d printers to be a hobby in and of itself for me.

[Anonymous No.1536601]

Well my first print just finished I guess it could be worse. It came loose there at the end. I didn't do anything I just plugged in the sd card that came with it and printed the file that was on there. What would cause that base to be like that its almost like you put the completed print on a frying pan and slid it backwards... Could the file have been corrupt?

[Anonymous No.1536602]

>>1536601

[Anonymous No.1536604]

>>1536601
>>1536602
That's why you don't print random gcode kids, always slice your own files. It looks like you need to lower your Z height; your first layer looks pretty weak. There shouldn't be gaps between the lines. Surface quality looks pretty awesome for a first print. What printer is that?

[Anonymous No.1536605]

>>1536584
>If it's one of the cheap chink clones
I thought that ender 3 was a chink clone of the prusa

[Anonymous No.1536606]

>>1536601
>>1536602
While it is possible the file is corrupt (I have had this happen exactly once over hundreds of files), it's far more likely that your belts are slipping and/or that you're going too fast for what the printer can take. Usually, stuff like this happens because the printbed/extruder head can't slow down fast enough and skips notches on the belt.

[Anonymous No.1536607]

>>1536604
ender 3 its what came on the sd card that came with the printer
>>1536337

[Anonymous No.1536608]

>>1536601
>>1536607
Slice your own gcode and try again. If it happens again then you know it's your printer and not the file.
>>1536606
For how extreme the layer shift is, and because of how well the rest of the print came out, I doubt that's the problem.

[Anonymous No.1536609]

>>1536606
I did take the bed apart>>1536337
Ill try tightening the belt some tomorrow

[Anonymous No.1536611]

>>1536419
You don't want the filament to exit the heat break lol, where did you get this idea?
All the retraction is suppose to do is take the pressure off the nozzle so the plastic doesn't ooze out as much.

[Anonymous No.1536615]

>>1536608
>Slice your own gcode and try again.
I have a whole lot to learn is there a good guide or video on where to start? Ill have to look through the pastebin

[Anonymous No.1536617]

>>1536615
Slicing a model is probably the easiest part of 3d print nowadays. You open a slicing program, open the model into the program and then the program outputs the gcode. Just use Cura and an Ender 3 profile, which you can find on Google, and tweak it until you get good prints. The tweaking part is where it can get messy, and a guide like this comes in handy:

https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

[Anonymous No.1536618]

>>1536615
>>1536615
Here's a beginner's guide to Cura:
https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/21932-mastering-cura

[Anonymous No.1536628]

>>1536606
also the microSD card included with ender 3s are known to be shit

[Anonymous No.1536631]

Really late, but first for smaller pew pew.
Had to send one printer in for repairs so I'm down to 6 running printers at the moment.

[Anonymous No.1536634]

anyone here with a cr10 running it with ABS?

[Anonymous No.1536635]

>>1536283
>What's holding back 3d printing is that most people don't fucking need it.
>Normal people have to print out a document or photo from time to time. But no one needs to print out some pre-made crap off thingiverse.
>The only reason to own a 3d printer is to make your own parts. If you don't know how to use CAD or 3D modelling software, and most people don't, it's just a toy.

I'm using my 3D printer to prototype a bellhousing adapter for an engine before I get it made.

Not all home users are dipshits, but most are

[Anonymous No.1536636]

>>1536631
thought about doing some mauser c96 inspired pistol?

[Anonymous No.1536637]

>>1536631
Are those fat darts or is this thing *designed* for stephans?

[Anonymous No.1536697]

>>1536575
The one risky part on an ender 3 is the XT-60 connector for the heat bed. Just bypass it by running 12 gauge wire instead of the split cable. You can tell if it's bad by feeling whether it heats up during a multi-hour print. It's still pretty unlikely, but I'd fix the connector if you're worried.

[Anonymous No.1536706]

>>1536611
I just kept increasing retraction length because I still get a lot stringing and zits.

[Anonymous No.1536708]

>>1536706
try speed instead of length

[Anonymous No.1536712]

>>1536708
Will try that. Thanks.

[Anonymous No.1536718]

>>1536636
I'm not really interested in modeling after real firearms. It's more fun to go weird.
>>1536637
It's designed specifically for half-length darts.

[Anonymous No.1536719]

>>1536634
CR-10 S4 at work is printing only ABS, and the build area is so large that the enclosure needed an added space heater in order for the build plate to get up to temperature.
The coworker running it prints only ABS on his personal cr10. You just need an enclosure of some kind, whether decent or ghetto doesn't matter much.

[Anonymous No.1536725]

>>1536719
Show pics of some pieces

[Anonymous No.1536727]

>>1536718
oh i didnt mean to go full replica. just the magazineposition in front of the handgrip. Keep your crazy style man, i like it and i think it makes your "makes" recognizable

[Anonymous No.1536730]

>>1536719
yeah i am aware of enclosures. but Nothing else got changed on i? hotend or something like that?

[Anonymous No.1536741]

>>1536725
I can't sorry.
>>1536730
Nothing else is changed

[Anonymous No.1536787]

>>1536511
>free CAD software
You can get the full version free from autodesk website? Sign in as a student. Almost all of their programs are free for students.

[Anonymous No.1536788]

Printed out the popular gun from altered carbon. Needs some finishing work yet. Petg, tevo tornado.

[Anonymous No.1536836]

>>1536605
There's always a cheaper chink clone

[Anonymous No.1536843]

>>1536787
>Tfw didn't know about this when I started
>Tfw learned some 90s CAD software I got from the local electronics shop bargain bucket
>Tfw too used to it to learn anything else
It works but the snapping is basic (basically only lines, not shapes) and the renderings are Windows 95 screensaver-tier

[Anonymous No.1536845]

>>1536843
>and the renderings are Windows 95 screensaver-tier
a e s t h e t i c

[Anonymous No.1536850]

>>1536843
>too used to it to learn anything else
You just have to try. Once you learn a second one, learning a third or a fourth gets much easier. Unless of course the third or fourth is Blender.

[Anonymous No.1536853]

>>1536605
Inception.

[Anonymous No.1536854]

>>1536845
Lol. It's kinda annoying sometimes though because metals just render as a grey blob.

[Anonymous No.1536855]

>>1536850
I dunno, which one is easiest

[Anonymous No.1536868]

>>1536854
Post pic

[Anonymous No.1536888]

>>1536344
Ender 3 owner, can confirm home position is not above the bed at all.

[Anonymous No.1536923]

>>1536259
>Subscribe to p e w d i e p i e

[Anonymous No.1536942]

>>1536787
I havent been a studemt for more than 15 years though.

[Anonymous No.1536973]

>>1536942
Lie

[Anonymous No.1536980]

So just how toxic is the resin in the DLP printers?
I love my ender3 and have gotten a lot of use out of it, but I've been eyeing one of those anycubics for /tg/ type dumb shit(maybe even a profit)

[Anonymous No.1536990]

>print 2cm cube
>measure with calipers
>m92 x77.5
>m92 y77.8
>m92 z375.0
>reprint cube
>re-measure it
>adjust steps by tiny ass amount
>repeat
>OVER AND FUCKING OVER
An anon told me I'd go through some 20-odd cubes before I was ready to really print. I didn't realize how right he was. I thought this was a precise procedure with a little math, but that went wrong very quickly. Instead it's tiny adjustments and kind of feeling your way through until you get within whatever tolerance your willing to - eh - tolerate. I'm closer to getting a 2cm cube to be a legit 2cm than it ever was before, but there's always the urge to do one more run and see what an extra 0.1 will do the z dimension.

[Anonymous No.1537002]

>>1536990
How does adjusting improve tolerance? I thought that was something to do with the layer resolution?

[Anonymous No.1537010]

>>1537002
If an axis motor is moving 1.1mm instead of 1mm, there's a 10% difference. A 2cm cube will be 2.2cm, but only on one axis. The closer you can get to 1.00mm on all axes the closer to "true" all your models will be. Getting it perfect may as well be impossible and after a certain point it matters less and less, so it's all about how off you're willing to let your prints be. That's what I mean by tolerance.

[Anonymous No.1537021]

>>1537010
Forgot to mention, unless you build a to-spec model and measure it, you'll never know if your axes are not tuned right. You'd be hard pressed to notice a circle is 10% wider than long or your pokemon statue is 15% taller than it should be.
You can find dozens of calibration cubes on thingiverse, or you can make one yourself for almost no effort. I use Wings3D since frankly I'm not smart enough for CAD freeware. This is all part of the new printer setup routine for newfags. Read OP's post.
>assemble printer
>level bed
>measure and set extruder rate
>measure and set axes
>test print
>google anything that doesn't look right
>tune it
>get tuning wrong
>revert to stock settings
>try again a little more carefully
>things slightly better
>repeat X10
>have nice looking prints after a couple of weeks
>"Wow anon how'd you get your prints to come out so nice?"

[Anonymous No.1537040]

>>1536980
I have a Form 2 and I handle my prints after printing but before post-curing without gloves all the time. I also sometimes fish the prints out of their IPA baths without gloves on. I just wash my hands with pumice soap and hot water afterwards because it's really sticky.

My hands have never gotten red or irritated in any way after doing this but I know it's definitely not recommended and I'm not telling you to not wear gloves...but you'll be fine. The smell also doesn't bother me in the slightest.

[Anonymous No.1537042]

So I think I've figured out why my Y sort of leans in the Z axis, the weight of the cable bundle hanging down affects the carriage slightly, shifting the position of the nozzle minutely. At Z=0 the cables pull the nozzle slightly forward, and as a result my prints lean back a bit the first cm of height.
Any thoughts on what I could do to fix this? I've looked into printing new X endstops, with two linear bearings for the Z smooth rod instead of just one, but it seems I'm alone in having had this idea and I don't really trust myself to design something on my own just yet. The machine is a Prusa clone.

[Anonymous No.1537048]

>>1537021
This is important for me because I am printing mechanical parts.

[Anonymous No.1537049]

>>1537040
>I dunked my hands in it and I'm fine so don't worry!
/diy/ everyone.

[Anonymous No.1537053]

>>1537049
bruh gloves are expensive bro

[Anonymous No.1537057]

>>1537042
Some sort of tensioner on the cables so the behavior is identical for any z level maybe?

[Anonymous No.1537062]

>>1537010
I have two choices, do this tuning or build around the existing tolerances, eg if I want a 2cm cube draw it as 1.81cm

[Anonymous No.1537068]

>>1537062
Some slicing software lets you scale differently along different axes, I use cura

[Anonymous No.1537071]

>>1536888
I assembled mine using the suggested height for the z limit switch, and I couldn't level my bed under the nozzle before topping out the adjusters. I had to raise the limit switch a bit to get it to work as well

[Anonymous No.1537073]

>>1537048
The command m503 will print out all the needed info. The stats marked m92 are the steps / mm taken. Use pronterface or octopi or any program that lets you send commands directly to the printer. In a perfect world this would be easy. For example:
>take your expected length cube's X axis in mm (200)
>multiply it by the number of steps / mm by found sending the printer the command m503 (for example, Ender 3's stock is 90)
>then divide by the real measurement of the printed piece (example: 215 mm) to get the "true" number of steps you need to take to get it to print 200mm like you want.
>200 * 90 / 215 = 83.72.
>Then set this variable using the command "m92 x83.72" where "x" is the axis you want. "y" and "z" will obviously be for their respective axes. "e" is the extruder rate.
>Save settings using "m500"
>repeat for other axes.
But in reality this gave me some fucked up results, or my math was just fucked up.
You can always revert the settings to factory default or just write down your best known settings, so don't worry about getting this too wrong. Also my Ender 3's stock firmware wouldn't save these, so if you have an old ender 3 update the firmware before starting.
You would be wise to re-calibrate the extrusion rate every time you change filament too.
So um, yeah. This is what I've been doing all day after work. Pic related is a cat statue I did to celebrating getting all 3 axes within 1% of what I wanted. The camera is potato quality but the print is nice as hell.

[Anonymous No.1537082]

>>1536868
Don't laugh.

[Anonymous No.1537083]

>tfw new stepper motor drivers arrive tomorrow
I hope it's worth the weight

[Anonymous No.1537099]

>>1537083
how heavy are they?

[Anonymous No.1537114]

>>1537099
about $25 for 5

[Anonymous No.1537120]

>>1536601
Second print
I'm pretty sure the dog file was corrupt there were two "test-dog" files on the sd card and they had different checksums. I didn't want to reprint the dog so I printed a cover for the fan

[Anonymous No.1537122]

>>1536012

[Anonymous No.1537125]

>>1537120

I didn't do anything special I just dragged the file into cura and hit start. Im not sure if my bed is warped or if I am just not leveling it good enough.

[Anonymous No.1537126]

>>1537125

Ill probably buy a mirror from walmart and cut it to size

[Anonymous No.1537129]

[Anonymous No.1537139]

>>1537129
>>1537120
>>1537126
>>1537125
Looks waaay better than ur first. Looks like you're in need of a layer fan. That will fix the bubbling you see there. Also looks a tad under extruded overall. Also, make sure everything is tight. Belts, bed, frame. Make sure wheels are tight against rail so as not to rattle.

[Anonymous No.1537140]

>>1537053
>18c a print is expensive
Then wash them off with IPA or with soap and water and re-use them

[Anonymous No.1537141]

What's going on here? How can the sides be sharp and smooth but the inside Y so ugly?

[Anonymous No.1537144]

>>1537139
I loosened the wheels for this print the last print was way too tight and was visibly wearing the wheels everything right now is tight enough where the wheels wont spin in place if I move them by hand.

[Anonymous No.1537147]

>>1537144
Thats gooood. Yea not too tight but don't want rattle. What are your temp settings for latest print by chance?

[Anonymous No.1537148]

>>1537141
Picture is too low res for me to tell, but is that where the slicer put the z scar?

[Anonymous No.1537149]

>>1537053
>>1537140

[Anonymous No.1537151]

>>1537148
>z scar
What's that?
I meant that the Y is so much uglier than the X.

[Anonymous No.1537152]

>>1536337
>>1536349
>>1536352
>>1536355
>>1536361
The nozzle isn't on the bed because when the nozzle heats up it will melt the bed surface if it touches.

>>1536601
>>1536602
>>1537120
>>1537125
>>1537126
>>1537129
Bro you've got some serious issues going on here. Your base layers should not look like that and they look fucked up in both models despite the dog being corrupt (which it is, known issue with creality). Put in a spool of new filament, not the sample they give you and print something with layer height of 0.1mm and bed heat at 58 deg C. Use change at Z addon for cura to change the bed heat to 0 after the first layer, there are also hidden settings in cura to do this. PLA should always be printed with 100% cooling fan on and try around 205C for the nozzle temp.

Post results and wait for further instruction.

[Anonymous No.1537153]

>>1537151
Layer fan position? Looks to be melty at top of the 'Y'

[Anonymous No.1537154]

>>1537152
>Post results and wait for further instruction.
Lol ok Führer chill the fuck out. I would say before chucking filament, lets hear what his temp settings are at. I think that's the issue for the moment. That and I believe ender 3 doesn't have layer fan out of the box...

[Anonymous No.1537155]

>>1537153
Layer fan position? It's next to the nozzle. I don't think I'm understanding you. The X, Z and all the side surfaces of the cube print okay, but the Y just blobs out into this hideous mess.

[Anonymous No.1537158]

>>1537155
Like from what side? Top, right, left, radial? One side is higher temp than the others for that to be happening, or its not getting hit with the layer fan enough.

[Anonymous No.1537160]

>>1537158
Ah, gotcha. The air from the fan is hitting the cube on the X face, the airstream is aimed so that the centre of the air passes just over the hole on the extruder.
Can it really be airflow though? The reverse sides of both the X and Y printed perfectly, the reverse Y should have identical airflow and the reverse X should logically have the least since all the air there passes over top of the print and none at all by the side.

[Anonymous No.1537166]

>>1537160
Hrm yea wouldn't be that then. Welp, I dunno. Just looks super melty on that side, stringing and everything. You can see which way the print head was moving even due to those stringy bits. Perhaps someone else on thread has experienced this.

[Anonymous No.1537169]

>>1537154
I have an ender 3 which is why I gave him specific instructions...including what temperature to use. Pic is what his prints should look like out of the box.

[Anonymous No.1537245]

>>1537147
>>1537152
200 and 60 for the bed
I try to manually set the temps on the printer but they seem to reset to that whenever I click on start print. Ill have to play with cura some and set the temps correctly from there but it probably wont be until Friday the next few days are going to be long days at work.

[Anonymous No.1537249]

>>1536990
also don't calibrate your printer using a tiny 20x20 cube. I banged my head for a couple days like you, then just reset my xy-steps, printed a 100x100 calibration square and it had just a .05 error.

[Anonymous No.1537271]

>>1536259
what's wrong with Eric the car guy?

[Anonymous No.1537287]

>>1537082
Grey blobs be damned, I'd kill to have freecad look like that. It puts all the info you need in front of you in a way that you can easily understand and the tools you need are right fucking there. If I'd found a piece of CAD software like that I would still be using it too.

[Anonymous No.1537325]

I figure I ask this here as it plays in a very similar niché as 3d printing.
I am concepting a device to engrave/mark cylindrical parts using a laser. It would consist of a sled moving along the length of the piece as well as a rotating table, chuck (similar to a lathe) or rollers the piece rests on. The latter one seems best to me. I think the construction would be rather straightforward (similar to a 3d printer).
The problem I see is with changing workpiece diameters. The way I have been thinking so far is to change the steps/mm to fit the piece diameter. These could be easily calculated once the drive train is fully defined.
But setting these for every new piece would be rather tedious, wouldnt it? Is there some way to have a quick input for steps/mm?
Also I am aware of laser engravers and rotary inserts for them. But the price is rather off-putting and I think this would be a nice project to work on.

[Anonymous No.1537333]

>>1537325
Wouldn't it be better to rotate the tool than the part? So you hit along the surface normal instead of an awkward angle.

[Anonymous No.1537334]

>>1537333
Oh wait, I'm a retard.

[Anonymous No.1537335]

>>1537333
Rotating the tool would mean a lot of mechanics to change the distance to the turning center line. I would rather put it directly above or below the the center line.

[Anonymous No.1537348]

>>1537335
I was imaging completely retarded kinematics with an offset center anyway.

[Anonymous No.1537351]

>>1537040
>>1537053
Always wear gloves when working with SLA prints. Even if you touch the prints wear gloves. I work with a guy who develops resins for SLA. He recommends this because the stuff in the resin is incredibly nasty and we don't know the long term effects. But hey, maybe you want cancer or to go sterile, it's a free country.

[Anonymous No.1537359]

>>1537287
Yes thats why I still use it. It's called Total CAD 2D-3D if you wanna try it.

[Anonymous No.1537368]

>>1537351
Do you mean he thinks you need to wear gloves when handling fully cleaned and cured prints too?

[Anonymous No.1537390]

>>1537325
>Also I am aware of laser engravers and rotary inserts for them. But the price is rather off-putting and I think this would be a nice project to work on.
Because they're built for rigidity and precision.

As diameter increases the accuracy of direct-drive from a servo starts to go down as they drive in discreet intervals, so to maintain precision you need a gear reduction that doesn't have any backlash.

[Anonymous No.1537392]

>>1537287
That's how I feel about my Office 2003 and the modern ones with "Ribbon" interface. Everything is hidden away in some obscure sub-menu and can only be found by summoning Ba'al and sacrificing thirty virgins and a goat, instead of just being in a list under "Insert".

[Anonymous No.1537394]

>>1537325
This is already patented under Hewlett-Packard as "Lightscribe", you might need to pay them off if you plan to sell this thing.

[Anonymous No.1537396]

>>1537392

LibreOffice doesn't have any of that ribbon crap

[Anonymous No.1537397]

>>1537351

For this reason i suspect SLA isn't really going to catch on with hobbyists. Not unless they invent some sort of non-toxic resin

[Anonymous No.1537401]

>>1537392
God bless minimalism.

[Anonymous No.1537404]

>>1537396
>>1537392
Yeah, I don't get it either. The old way you had Insert and Format basically. If you wanted to add something new, Insert. If you wanted to change something you already had, Format. What's so difficult or counterintuitive about that? Now everything is scattered between half a dozen menus and with the huge icons they waste loads of space, and also you can't even shrink the window down now without literally losing tools.
There's just plain no comparison between Keynote and PowerPoint.

[Anonymous No.1537419]

>>1536136
Kek

[Anonymous No.1537420]

After 6 weeks of waiting for the Kazakhstan train

[Anonymous No.1537426]

>>1537404
I've never used Keynote but I do like Numbers despite it's minimalism. I actually think it's better than Excel. The slider tool is so much better than the circular reference in Excel which just keeps crashing.

[Anonymous No.1537429]

>>1537390
Idea was to belt-drive it with a reduction. And if the rotation is only into one direction, backlash should be negligible, right?
>>1537394
I actually thought about selling it a little haha. Mainly a personal project though (if I start it)

[Anonymous No.1537430]

>>1537420
A little cutout for muh clearance

[Anonymous No.1537431]

>>1537429
yeah screw the singular-motion idea, that would surely look awful. But a belt with tensioner, lower speeds, minimised carriage weight? Doesnt sound impossible

[Anonymous No.1537434]

>>1537420
>>1537430

[Anonymous No.1537435]

>>1537430
This is the End 3

[Anonymous No.1537444]

>>1537435
>has dragon on it
>is dildos
Checks out

[Anonymous No.1537448]

>>1536980
Other photopolymer used in Objets.

[Anonymous No.1537452]

>>1537435
So...
The ""LED"" power supply, which it came with, smells like fried electronics already.
The aluminum bed is warped by almost 1mm.
The overall construction is absolutely toy-ish when you're used to professional CNC machines.
The power cord went straight in the bin.
Build quality is better than expected though.

[Anonymous No.1537454]

>>1537368
Yes, you should wear gloves even when touching cured resin.
>>fully cleaned and cured
Unless you bake it under so much UV that it turns yellow, it isn't fully cured.
>>1536980
Very.
>>1537397
SLA is the future. You just can't beat it in terms of resolution and speed.

[Anonymous No.1537455]

>>1537245
Temps are usually set in the gcode, so when you hit print, the first thing the printer does is adjust all settings to what the gcode says

[Anonymous No.1537457]

>>1537082
What software? I'm also seriously interested on the company that sold this to you in the year of our lord 2018.

[Anonymous No.1537467]

>>1537452
>The ""LED"" power supply, which it came with, smells like fried electronics already.
Mine has the same PSU, hasn't shown any sign of failure since I got the printer
>The aluminum bed is warped by almost 1mm.
This has been a known issue since the printer was first released. Had you done any research, you'd have expected that and bought a glass sheet to put on it like everyone else.
>The overall construction is absolutely toy-ish when you're used to professional CNC machines.
You're talking about the current best machine on the market for the ~$200 price range. Add a couple zeros to that and /then/ you can start comparing it to professional CNCs.

It's an entry level printer; not gonna be perfect out of the box. Welcome to /diy/

[Anonymous No.1537486]

>>1537467
>you'd have expected that
I knew it would be like that. I'll order a glass bed of course. I just wanted to see if it came with a glass bed.
Recommendations?

>comparing it to professional CNCs
Relax, I know what I'm getting myself into

Just some thoughts that went through my head while assembling it.
Alsmost done

[Anonymous No.1537498]

>>1537457
Total CAD 2D-3D, Version 2. Says on the box it was developed by IMSI Design and distributed by Focus Multimedia. I don't think I got jewed, it was only £8

[Anonymous No.1537524]

Question for the electrical and programing savvy. Ive been playing with the idea of a larger build volume sla printer based on the Sparkmaker. With the same basic setup would I be able to put two LCD screens side by side and have them projecting as a top and bottom to increase my print area? I'd probably have to double the uv LEDs underneath as well. Just want to know if it's possible using a pi or something.

[Anonymous No.1537526]

>>1537271
He is a honda dealership fitter, useless at everything else, or he used to be.

>>1537452
>The aluminum bed is warped by almost 1mm.
I bought another bed because I like the surface more than glass, and that came warped too so I went with auto bed levelling, although that isn't all so simple either.

[Anonymous No.1537532]

If the bottom layers of my prints are warping, should I turn off the heated bed? I'm printing PLA with 195C at the nozzle and 60C at the bed, on blue tape.

[Anonymous No.1537537]

>>1537532
>PLA warping
Do you live in the arctic, anon? How cold is your room?
But in all seriousness, I see people get away with printing PLA on a cold bed. To my understanding ABS is the other common one a jot bed is a must for.

[Anonymous No.1537541]

>>1537537
Close to, the arctic circle is 30km north of me.
My room is at 19 degrees.

[Anonymous No.1537542]

>>1537532
Heated bed reduces warping - not increase it.

Are you printing with a delta? Maybe the "warping" is just due to miscalibration.

>>1537541
That's not very cold if you mean Celsius

[Anonymous No.1537564]

>>1537452
ITS CHOOCHIN'
My very first layer ever.
test-dog.gcode
205°C Nozzle
74°C Bed (Bed seems to be like 10°C colder than displayed)
M4P PLA

Expected it to be much louder.

Y axis has some extreme flat spots but I didn't bother yet. Will prob. twist all 4 pulleys a bit differently.

Also I think I have some later model with a removeable flexible bed?

[Anonymous No.1537569]

>>1537524

You'd need to treat the second display as a new monitor, meaning you'd need to use a second HDMI->MIPI board, which is the most expensive component on an LCD printer. On top of that you're likely to have a gap/seam in the middle where the two panels join, and the slicer would also require modifications to be able to split the image onto 2 displays. It's not a good idea.

[Anonymous No.1537576]

can anybody tell me if a standard V6 type nozzle would also fit in a Chiron's hotend? I can't find any information on what kind of nozzles it should use, and I'm used to 0.8mm nozzles on Ultimakers - they really speed up printing.

>>1537564
My new printer > your new printer

[Anonymous No.1537580]

>>1537576
>My new printer > your new printer
Lets see how our very first prints turn out once they're done

[Anonymous No.1537588]

>>1537576
From what I've seen so far the nozzles seem to have a standard threading size that everyone follows
I havent actually measured them but I've bought different size nozzles for 6 different brands and while the heads were all proprietary shapes the threads were the same size as my heatbreak

[Anonymous No.1537592]

>>1537569
I thought as much but it was worth a shot. Thanks anon.

[Anonymous No.1537667]

My z-frame is not square on one side, how do I go about squaring it? I’ve diagnosed this as a serious issue regarding my z axis in prints. You may not be able to tell in the photo, but it’s not quite a right angle.

[Anonymous No.1537668]

>>1537667
Also it is not square on the y axis either, it’s slightly diagonal tyatvway too bevause my square protrudes out as it goes instead of runs parallel.

[Anonymous No.1537669]

>>1537667
Photo is rotated 90 degrees by accident, the copper plate should be the top end of the

[Anonymous No.1537687]

>>1537580
First print done!
Stuck like a motherfucker to the bed.

[Anonymous No.1537700]

>>1537687
Yo wtf. Wishing my first print was as smooth as that and didn't require 3 weekends of adjusting/part milling.

[Anonymous No.1537707]

>>1537700
>part milling
Lol did you build your printer from scrap?

[Anonymous No.1537711]

>>1537707
Chink shit needed the holes drilled closer together to keep wheels from rattling on the rails. That and printed parts to square up the frame.

[Anonymous No.1537722]

>>1537700
Build it right the first time, faggot.

[Anonymous No.1537723]

>>1537687
That's a quality built Ender3.
Keep those belts tight and you will probably always see that kind of quality.

[Anonymous No.1537724]

>>1537667
Loosen everything without backing the screws all the way out.

Square one side, tighten, square another, tighten, square another, tighten... all the way around until everything tightens evenly.

[Anonymous No.1537725]

>>1537576
>My new printer
> your new printer

>Bowden extruder with the exact same hotend and some plastic-covered extruder
Actually both of your printers are probably just about identical in capability. His a little moreso. No glass bed and less mass = more jerk and acceleration potential.

[Anonymous No.1537727]

>>1537452
>The aluminum bed is warped by almost 1mm.
I've got an Ender3 with a warp inward on the left/middle side
I was able to alleviate it with a bit of aluminum foil on that side of the bed with a clipped-on sheet of 1/8" glass.
It's a common problem but not one that's detrimental or horrifying. You can fix it, just needs a bit of fiddling and/or filling of the void on your part.
I have a BLtouch so I have auto-bed-leveling so I can see my warp in my bed using a visualizer. I'm currently 0.06mm off at worst and that's as level as I can physically get it. I can live with that.

[Anonymous No.1537729]

>>1536251
>Yes, along with angus and other zoomtubers who are clueless idiots and put up videos without thoroughly checking what they are doing or talking about.
Nerys is my man.
The rest of them can get fukt.

[Anonymous No.1537731]

>>1537724
Thank you; very similar to leveling the bed in process, makes sense and doing this now.

[Anonymous No.1537732]

Anycubic Photon vs. Wanhao Duplicator 7 Plus - anyone have opinions about one or the other? Pretty similar prices, looking into getting one of them.

[Anonymous No.1537781]

>>1537725
It's a big printer.

[Anonymous No.1537795]

>>1537781
4u

[Anonymous No.1537809]

>>1537725
>and some plastic-covered extruder
looks like a Titan extruder, so that's actually good.

[Anonymous No.1537812]

>>1537732
I have a Photon, i can recommend it.

[Anonymous No.1537814]

>>1537732
familymember has a photon and its pretty good. no idea of the wanhao is any better or worse tho

[Anonymous No.1537815]

>>1537687
You have to be careful with bed heat; it's a fine balance between almost popping off and glued so strong that you start damaging the surface trying to scrape it off.

Drop bed temp after the first few layers in your slicer.

[Anonymous No.1537828]

Should I buy an arduino for the sole purpose of updating the firmware on the ender 3?

[Anonymous No.1537829]

>>1536012
>a challenger appears

https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&cp_id=10724&cs_id=1072403&p_id=34437&seq=1&format=2

[Anonymous No.1537833]

>>1537828
they're like $3, you should have one already or at least a raspberry pi
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/high-quality-One-set-UNO-R3-CH340G-MEGA328P-for-Arduino-UNO-R3-NO-USB-CABLE/32697443734.html

[Anonymous No.1537838]

>>1537828
>>1537833
Are there any actual gains after updatig the fw? Also who releases fw versions for the Ender 3 when it's not Creality themselves?
Thought about this too and was suprised it's not indended by Creality

[Anonymous No.1537840]

>>1537829
What would speak for this when the Anycubic Chiron is also $399 and very similar?
I'm convinced all of this stuff comes out of the same factory and is just randomly branded.

[Anonymous No.1537841]

>>1537838
Download Marlin, it comes with a config for Ender 3.

>Are there any actual gains after updatig the fw?
thermal runaway protection, add things like a filament runout detector, auto-bed leveling, etc.

I don't know why creality doesn't just flash a bootloader, there's enough space on the stock firmware for it. Even their ABL kit comes with a thing to flash the bootloader (and yet their provided firmware is still old as FUCK).

[Anonymous No.1537846]

>>1537838
Updated my ender3 to the new firmware in preparation for auto bed levelling using a inductive proxy sensor LJ12A3-4-Z/BX should gone the 5v option but already had it from another project. Also wasn't a fan of cura and wanted to use repetier. Got my firmware from http://support.th3dstudio.com/support/solutions/articles/43000460446-th3d-unified-firmware-package

[Anonymous No.1537849]

>>1537841
>>1537846
So no real value for normal stock users?
Hacking in a bed level sensor would be too much hassle for me anyways. Why not just buy a printer with autolevelling? It's quite common on recent cheap printers.

[Anonymous No.1537852]

>>1537849
It's no hassle at all.
Just use one of those resistive film probes you just stick on your nozzle.

[Anonymous No.1537853]

>>1537849
thermal runaway protection is p important anon
and adding auto-bed leveling is worth it and much cheaper than buying a new printer, no hacking required, it's literally just plugging it in and replacing your z-endstop and editing a few lines in marlin

[Anonymous No.1537854]

>>1537853
also you can now use your unneeded z-endstop as a filament runout sensor

[Anonymous No.1537855]

>>1537849
>Thermal runaway protection
That's the value (for any user). Read as "burn your house down protection".

[Anonymous No.1537857]

>>1537849
Got the ender3 on sale plus already had bits, seemed a bit steep to pay 100 dollary doo's for a $5 sensor and firmware. Managed to flash mine with a mega I had lying around. If your not interested in adding extra shit then no stock is fine

[Anonymous No.1537860]

I'm having trouble printing a small cylinder with holes inside.

When I look at the model in the "Solid" view on CURA, everything comes out fine, but when I actually look at the "Layer" view, all but one of the holes are filled in. Is there any reason for this to happen, and how can I change it.

Pic related is the "Solid" view

[Anonymous No.1537861]

>>1537860
Here's the Layer view. Anyone got any idea how to fix this?

[Anonymous No.1537862]

>>1537860
You tried looking at it with something like Meshmixer? Could be your geometry is fucked. Could be Cura being fucked too, for that matter; throw it into Slic3r, see if the preslice gives you a different result.

[Anonymous No.1537863]

>>1537853
>no hack required
And getting a Arduino
And figuring out how to connect everything for flashing
And downloading some dodgy fw from some unauthorized place
And figuring out how to mount the sensor
And generally learning Marlin

Thats still a great diy project though

[Anonymous No.1537865]

>>1537862
Slic3r seems to give the correct output. Thanks for the recommendation.

[Anonymous No.1537866]

>>1537860
Squish it through Meshmixer my bet it's a broken geometry.
Also is this extremely low poly count intentional?

[Anonymous No.1537868]

>>1537863
all of these are explained in retard-proof videos by teaching tech
and marlin is literally the source of creality's firmware
creality was the unauthorized one up until a few months ago since they were closed source

[Anonymous No.1537869]

Can I flash and upgrade the firmware with a Pi or do I NEED an Arduino?

[Anonymous No.1537870]

>>1537869
https://www.fission3d.com/guides/flash-bootloader-and-install-firmware-with-raspberry-pi

[Anonymous No.1537872]

>>1537866
Never heard of Meshmixer but it looks very useful for these kinds of problems.

Blame the low poly count on SketchUp. Ditched it for AutoCAD recently and I'm much happier with the interface.

[Anonymous No.1537878]

>>1537838
My ender 3 wouldn't save settings (m500 command) after a reboot until I flashed it with with >>1537846's bootloader. That in itself made it worth getting.
It also came with a bed leveling feature which is great even if I'm still leveling the bed by hand. It just picks up the nozzle, moves it to a corner and drops it. Makes the paper test very easy.
Print speed went up drastically, and I don't know why.
Furthermore the thermal runaway protection means Octopi finally shuts up about it being missing and there's peace of mind doing a long print that I can't be there to monitor.
It was absolute hell to flash it using Lubuntu instead of Windows but now that it's done I don't regret it.

[Anonymous No.1537879]

>>1537860
If you can upload the STL file everyone can take a closer look. It might be something simple.

[Anonymous No.1537881]

>>1537846
Bought a LJ18A3-8-Z/BX but it wouldn't sense the bed through the Creality glass bed even at 24V, feels bad. Ended up ordering a fake BLTouch.

[Anonymous No.1537888]

>>1537872
On fusion360 you can specify polycount (amount detail) for exporting. Standard setting is medium or so.

[Anonymous No.1537924]

>>1536719
I've never tried ABS on my CR-10S, how bad is the smell really? Is it completely over powering or is it just like a minor scent in the background? I've got an enclosure, but it's not air tight.

[Anonymous No.1537938]

I currently have a 3d printer and I want to build an ultimaker clone, I really like the style but not the price. Will a 1.4 RAMP board be enough for a simple structure ? Isnt it "out-dated" ?

[Anonymous No.1537945]

>>1537938
a ramps 1.4 is perfecly fine for basic functionality on a budget.
>>1537924
I can barely smell a difference, but experiences may vary.

[Anonymous No.1537947]

>>1537945
>a ramps 1.4 is perfecly fine for basic functionality on a budget.
Great thank you

[Anonymous No.1537971]

>>1537855
I wonder how long it takes to burn like that

[Anonymous No.1537985]

>>1537541
Lol anon does actually live there, that's funny.

[Anonymous No.1537996]

I'm assuming it's not supposed to curl on itself coming out of the nozzle. I also have plastic oozing out of the where the nozzle and heatsink thread into the heater block. If this were pneumatic or carrier water I would use that Teflon thread tape. Is there a hot plastic analog or are my connections loose? I'm afraid to crank down any harder. Perhaps tighten when it's up to operating temp?
Thanks for any help.

[Anonymous No.1538008]

>>1537996
>I'm assuming it's not supposed to curl on itself coming out of the nozzle.
Not unusual. You just don't want to see it coming out of the nozzle sideways immediately upon exiting.

[Anonymous No.1538009]

>>1537564
>that carpet
Good luck getting all the little bits of filament out of that

[Anonymous No.1538010]

>>1537860
THere is stl fixing tool in blender.

[Anonymous No.1538013]

Can you fixit?

solid Exported from Blender-2.79 (sub 0)
facet normal 0.000000 0.000000 -1.000000
outer loop
vertex 1.000000 1.000000 -1.000000
vertex -1.000000 -1.000000 -1.000000
vertex -1.000000 1.000000 -1.000000
endloop
endfacet
facet normal 0.000000 0.000000 1.000000
outer loop
vertex -1.000000 1.000000 1.000000
vertex 0.999999 -1.000001 1.000000
vertex 1.000000 0.999999 1.000000
endloop
endfacet
facet normal 1.000000 0.000000 -0.000000
outer loop
vertex 1.000000 0.999999 1.000000
vertex 1.000000 -1.000000 -1.000000
vertex 1.000000 1.000000 -1.000000
endloop
endfacet
facet normal -0.000000 -1.000000 -0.000000
outer loop
vertex 0.999999 -1.000001 1.000000
vertex -1.000000 -1.000000 -1.000000
vertex 1.000000 -1.000000 -1.000000
endloop
endfacet
facet normal -1.000000 0.000000 -0.000000
outer loop
vertex -1.000000 -1.000000 -1.000000
vertex -1.000000 1.000000 1.000000
vertex -1.000000 1.000000 -1.000000
endloop
endfacet
facet normal 0.000000 1.000000 0.000000
outer loop
vertex 1.000000 1.000000 -1.000000
vertex -1.000000 1.000000 1.000000
vertex 1.000000 0.999999 1.000000
endloop
endfacet
facet normal -0.000000 0.000000 -1.000000
outer loop
vertex 1.000000 1.000000 -1.000000
vertex 1.000000 -1.000000 -1.000000
vertex -1.000000 -1.000000 -1.000000
endloop
endfacet
facet normal 0.000000 0.000000 1.000000
outer loop
vertex -1.000000 1.000000 1.000000
vertex -1.000000 -1.000000 1.000000
vertex 0.999999 -1.000001 1.000000
endloop
endfacet
facet normal -0.000000 -1.000000 0.000000
outer loop
vertex 0.999999 -1.000001 1.000000
vertex -1.000000 -1.000000 1.000000
vertex -1.000000 -1.000000 -1.000000
endloop
endfacet
facet normal -1.000000 0.000000 -0.000000
outer loop
vertex -1.000000 -1.000000 -1.000000
vertex -1.000000 -1.000000 1.000000
vertex -1.000000 1.000000 1.000000
endloop
endfacet
facet normal 0.000000 1.000000 0.000000
outer loop
vertex 1.000000 1.000000 -1.000000
vertex -1.000000 1.000000 -1.000000
vertex -1.000000 1.000000 1.000000
endloop
endfacet
endsolid

[Anonymous No.1538022]

>>1537687
nice
source on that filament colour?

[Anonymous No.1538027]

>>1537996
>>1537996
>I'm assuming it's not supposed to curl on itself coming out of the nozzle.
It can but it's inconsequential
Your other problem is a bit of a problem, though... I'd change the nozzle if it's tight and still leaking. If it still leaks after that, then bro I'm afraid your heater-block might be defective.

[Anonymous No.1538040]

>>1537996
Teflon tape should be fine here, most extruders have a teflon tube to separate the hot parts from the cold parts already.

[Anonymous No.1538043]

>>1537996
Re your extruder leaking, if it isn't super bad I would honestly just leave it. Print PLA for a few hours, the plastic in the threads will turn caramelised, it's basically sugar loctite. When you replace the nozzle, just heat it up to 180 degrees, use an adjustable wrench to grip the heater block and a normal wrench to grip the nozzle, and twist. It takes more force than usual which is why you want the adjustable wrench to hold the heater steady, but once you have it out it's pretty simple to clean up, just grab onto the plastic with a needle-nose plier and pull. It'll come off in one big sheet and leave a pristine nozzle behind.

[Anonymous No.1538044]

>>1538040
>>1537996
https://www.biltema.se/bygg/tejp/gangtejp/gangtejp-2000035476 This is the sort of stuff, right? "Thread tape, 100% PTFE"? Temperature range is listed as -190 to +280, so unless you're printing some very strange plastic you'll be fine.

[Anonymous No.1538072]

My Snapmaker clone can't print model kit parts for shit so I'm thinking of inverting the models and printing some molds instead.

Question: is this buttfuck insane and if not how am I gonna make the resin not stick to the mold?

[Anonymous No.1538073]

>>1538022
Material 4 print purple, nothing fancy.
It's a bit lighter than the gamecube purple.
I'll switch to cheap filament, once I'm comfortable with printing.

[Anonymous No.1538114]

>>1538072
If it can't print the parts accurately what makes you think it will print moulds accurately?

[Anonymous No.1538120]

>>1538072
>how am I gonna make the resin not stick to the mold?
Fine mist primer like the kind use for painting miniatures, then lots and lots of mold release. MANN ease is the one I prefer.

It's also a good idea to design the mold so that it can be destroyed easily if the part doesn't want to be removed.

[Anonymous No.1538178]

>>1537833
>they're like $3, you should have one already or at least a raspberry pi
I have an orange pi

[Anonymous No.1538224]

I want to give my printer autoleveling, but think inductive sensors are for wusses. What I'm thinking of doing is connecting the Z switch signal wire to the nozzle and the ground to my aluminium heated bed. Printer pokes the bed, closes the circuit, and knows that this is exactly z=0.
Thoughts? It seems super obvious to me, so I'm wondering why nobody else is doing this.

[Anonymous No.1538232]

>>1538224
my spidey senses are telling me that this is a bad idea because z=0 is not actually at the bed level but probably one layer height above it.

[Anonymous No.1538235]

>>1538224
There are some higher end printers that do this. https://reprap.org/wiki/Z_probe

[Anonymous No.1538237]

>>1538232
What do you mean one layer above it? Both the nozzle and the bed are metal, so when they touch they close the circuit and they have to be at z=0 because the nozzle is sharp and the lowest point of the extruder. It seems way better than other leveling methods because it's more precise than trying to screw an inductive sensor on at the right distance from the bed, and also because there is no possibility of sag or vibration messing up the calibration, and also the probe is at exactly the same point as the nozzle instead of offset a few cm like with bltouch.
>>1538235
Why would only high end printers have this? It seems to me to be the objectively best way to autolevel, and it uses less fancy components than any other autolevel system. Hell, it uses less fancy components than an endstop switch, you could use the same method for X and Y endstops and save a few cents on a switch.

[Anonymous No.1538251]

>>1538237
Because you're not even going to get any sort of auto-bed leveling on cheap printers and they all have potato 8-bit Arduino processors. Heck, you could use TMC 2130 drivers and just crash the nozzle into the bed to do ABL and not even need ANY endstops.

[Anonymous No.1538253]

>>1538251
Marlin offers autoleveling functionality and is pretty much the standard for shitty Arduino processors.

[Anonymous No.1538254]

>>1538253
I know, but you're going to have to make sacrifices to fit it all in 128K which is p pathetic. Even ESP8266s in IOT devices have 1MB+ nowadays.

[Anonymous No.1538257]

>>1537812
>>1537814
Fuck it, guess I'm buying a Proton when Ikea finally gets their fucking tables back in stock! Looks like it'll be a week or so until then, so anyone else feel free to discourage me.

[Anonymous No.1538260]

>>1538251
Arduino can easily run autoleveling. Maybe not the fancy 3D super ultra interpolated mesh ones, but all you really need is three-point anyway and that takes hardly any space. I have an old Anet with both SD card and autoleveling turned on, it works fine.

[Anonymous No.1538265]

Gu-guys, yobi3d is about to shutdown.
Where am I going to rip vidya models with the intention of turning them into action fgures only to leave them rotting inside my hard drive until I remember to practice Blender now?

[Anonymous No.1538268]

>>1538260
I know.

[Anonymous No.1538273]

whats threads opinion on monoprice printers
https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&cp_id=10724&cs_id=1072403&p_id=34437&seq=1&format=2

is this one or the $219 US value buys or just chink shit?
after watching a video on the $219 one, it was able to be high enough resolution to print custom threads and bolts, which is the main thing I need

[Anonymous No.1538275]

>>1538265
yeggi

[Anonymous No.1538276]

>>1538265
One of the other hundred sites I guess.

[Anonymous No.1538278]

>>1538273
>>is this one or the $219 US value buys or just chink shit?
Hate to spread this on your toast, friend but if you're against chink-shit, 3D-printing might be the worst trigger on earth.

It's just about 90% chinkshit.

[Anonymous No.1538302]

>>1538257
>printer
>Ikea table
some some cheap enclosure?

[Anonymous No.1538304]

>>1538302
No, I'm just planning to stick it on the table; since it's an SLA printer I wouldn't think it needs to be rock solid, just horizontal. I am planning on getting another FDM printer, though, so I'd have to figure out some way to attach the table to the wall or reinforce it so it doesn't wobble.

[Anonymous No.1538307]

>>1538273
>>1538278
>chinkshit
Whatever device you are posting with is from China too and is among the technically most complex things humanity has ever came up with.

Buy a Prusa i3 MK3if you don't want into Chinese low end stuff.

>custom threads and bolts
Which size and which quantity? Thread printing gets problematic with decreased size.

[Anonymous No.1538311]

>>1538304
ah ok. im Looking into buying myself a second one but since neither fit under two "LACK" tables (or whatever they are called) i propably have to build something myself

[Anonymous No.1538317]

>>1538254

Most marlin boards like the most basic RAMPS use the Atmega2560 which is 256K. I don't think 1284p boards are very popular these days. My Melzi uses it but that design is from 2011...

[Anonymous No.1538321]

hi, is there a way I can make the nozzle stop raming into the walls during the first layer ?

[Anonymous No.1538329]

>>1538321
you could tell it to avoid crossing outside parameters. if that still does not work, enable Z hop. Both will work for the entire print, not only for the first layer and z hop can introduce some more stringing.

[Anonymous No.1538330]

Catia V5 master race reporting in

[Anonymous No.1538331]

>>1538330
openScad is better desu senpai

[Anonymous No.1538334]

>>1538307
is this a legit prusa i3?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Full-Aluminum-frame-Prusa-I3-with-MK8-extruder-3D-Printer-DIY-KIT-FREE-SHIPPING/323588628222?hash=item4b57629efe:g:2PAAAOSwFqJWqWvB:rk:14:pf:0

options are limited because of australia

[Anonymous No.1538337]

>Be me
>Printing on a MP MakerGeek Select V2
>MakerGeek HTPLA rated for 245°C, but that was running/overextruding so printing at 230°C. Bed at 50, though I've tried 60 too.
>First layer is smooth and adheres really well
>Everything above clumps up or is rough, unevenly deposited.

What stupid thing am I doing.

[Anonymous No.1538338]

>>1538329
"Retract before outer wall" in Cura ?
I'll try once my current printing is done

[Anonymous No.1538346]

>>1538338
not sure, but you can try it. could help.
also make sure the bed temp is set correctly. the first layer should usually be a bit warmer. and make sure the bed is levelled correctly with also the correct first layer hight in the slicer.

[Anonymous No.1538372]

>>1537971
https://www.thissmarthouse.net/dont-burn-your-house-down-3d-printing-a-cautionary-tale/

Probably not that long. Think about how fast your hot end normally takes to heat up; if the cartridge falls out w/o thermal runaway protection on, it just keeps going up until the PSU runs out of juice or the cartridge melts. Add that to the fact that Anets are made of sheet Chinesium plastic.

[Anonymous No.1538374]

>>1538334
I'd question if the seller was legit, not the printer. You can buy straight from Geeeeeeeetech for the same cost:

https://www.geeetech.com/geeetech-prusa-i3-aluminum-diy-3d-printer-only-accept-order-fr-p-944.html

[Anonymous No.1538380]

>>1538334
No, that's a chinese clone, all printers made by Joseph Prusa look the same as the ones on his website. They also tend not to be cheap.

[Anonymous No.1538396]

>>1538044
Yes, thank you.
>>1538043
It was leaking all over the place otherwise I wouldn't care. I've had small amounts before but this was gooing down the side.
Thanks

[Anonymous No.1538403]

collage for next thread

[Anonymous No.1538433]

behold the PLA brush

[Anonymous No.1538451]

Besides better cooling is there anything else to help fight curling?

[Anonymous No.1538452]

>>1538433

[Anonymous No.1538454]

So i've set up my BlTouch on my Ender 3 and its okay at the moment
I cant figure out why it is printing to the left so far. The auto home "G28" hits the centre, then the "G29" just says fuck it and misses completely. Also I dont see where I adjust the grid. currently it does a 3x3. If someone could link me to a google search that would show that would be helpful as i've tried googling a tonne to no luck

[Anonymous No.1538459]

This guy again: >>1537576
>can anybody tell me if a standard V6 type nozzle would also fit in a Chiron's hotend?
Yes, it fits.

So far I'm stumped by the autoleveling process, damn thing is 15mm off according to it's correction matrix. I'm going back to manual leveling for now.
My problem with this is twofold though: if the bed screws aren't fucktight like they are upon delivery, my nozzle sits about 2-3mm below the bed. Does this mean I should be adjusting the endstops mechanically? How do I make sure both Z-axis endstops are level with each other? Plan A here is roughly measuring it with calipers and getting it to within 0.1mm, dunno if that'll be accurate enough.
After getting the end switches roughly right I can then level the bed using the screws, should be easy. Once that's done I'll probably need to re-slice the leveling print for a 0.8mm nozzle, see how that turns out, and pray it finally works.

[Anonymous No.1538467]

How can I ID the material of a 3d printed part I have?

[Anonymous No.1538468]

>>1538467

[Anonymous No.1538469]

>>1538467
If you're okay with scraping off a piece of the plastic you can try to burn it or melt it in acetone to see how it reacts.

[Anonymous No.1538473]

>>1538451
Printing a benchy rn too.
No curling yet. Stock fan on 100%
Try turning Z-hop off, if its on. Could be an oozing problem.
Could also be a filament failure.

[Anonymous No.1538474]

>>1538468
>>1538469
great, thank you. the part has broken so I am going to reinforce it with CF, but I wanted to see what plastic it was to make sure I got the best bond

[Anonymous No.1538478]

>>1538433
That's p badass but won't they snap off?

[Anonymous No.1538479]

>>1538403
>didn't put my 90s CAD software in it

[Anonymous No.1538480]

>>1538473
Just goes to show how amazing this shitty chink printer is if you take the time to assemble it right.

I should get a glass plate for mine.

[Anonymous No.1538481]

>>1536210
That solvent tetrahydrofuran (THF) is incredibly carcinogenic. Working in a hood would be safe but I am not sure they had this intent

[Anonymous No.1538490]

>>1538403
too soon. Picture still coming in.
I would throw out burned up Anet, because it is not Anons OC (at least I hope so).

[Anonymous No.1538491]

>>1538451
If you are using a heated bed, turn it down as low as it will fucking go without lifting. Excess bed heat radiates up, and can cause prints ro curl and warp, especially on overhangs.

[Anonymous No.1538495]

*pads video to 15 minutes*
nothing personel kid

[Anonymous No.1538496]

>>1538481
Why does everything give you cancer :(

[Anonymous No.1538508]

>>1538496
Cells are finicky

[Anonymous No.1538517]

>>1538459
Anyone got some help here?

[Anonymous No.1538518]

>>1538403
OP here, I'm off for the night in a few minutes. Anyone care to make a new thread once we hit page 5-6?

[Anonymous No.1538542]

>>1538459
>>1538517
The point of the bed leveling Springs is partially to allow some adjustment in the height of your nozzle height/z endstop location. If your printers z axis home places the nozzle that close to the bed it means your end stops are too low. I'm not sure why there would be two, but it'll likely just trigger on whichever on is higher up. Just raise them up until you can get good manual nozzle clearance on all four corners. I've never actually used a chiron so I could be completely wrong though.

[Anonymous No.1538555]

>>1538337
bump for halp —my HTPLA shit has holes in it like this too and I don't get why I get 1st layer adhesion but everything else is clumping together

[Anonymous No.1538557]

>>1538495
at least he actually designs useful things unlike 3d nerd and doesn't charge for them unlike maker muse

[Anonymous No.1538566]

>>1538273
I have a monoprice select mini that I got used for 80 bucks that runs like a sewing machine, just got a mp maker select that was a non printing for parts mess that I finally got to print the test piece now I just can't get the fucking thing to stick anything else to the bed... Tho I'll still call it a win cause I did get the fucker to print, they are totally chinesium but that mini has just wurked so far (after finding an SD card card it liked) so ymmv pic is problem child and mvp in their natural habitats

[Anonymous No.1538568]

>>1538557
I wish he didn't have a hardon for the HeroMe duct. That duct sucks ass.

[Anonymous No.1538573]

What hotends are compatible with the CR10 that requires the least amount of hammering to get it fit?

[Anonymous No.1538578]

>>1538573
There's mounts for the E3D hotends. The microswiss one on Amazon fits as well but there's reviews saying it clogs... and reviews saying it doesn't.

Toss a coin. I think they're both placebos that could be fixed with minor software/hardware tweaking.

Compare images to Ender3/CR10 stock prints vs. modded-out prints. I really can't tell much of a difference. Most Ender3 posts I see on here printing benchies right out of the box look just as good as some covered in thousands of mods.

[Anonymous No.1538580]

>>1538403
Why did you include my shitty calibration cube?

[Anonymous No.1538582]

>>1538495
He has a good reason, YouTube only pays out for long videos.

[Anonymous No.1538583]

>>1538573
You might as well upgrade to E3D Bowden if you're changing your extruder. The Chinese kits are pretty cheap, all you need to do is cut your own PTFE liner since the included ones are invariably awful.

[Anonymous No.1538595]

>Ender 3 printing worse after TH3D marlin and BlTouch
did I just get memed

[Anonymous No.1538602]

My CR10 hotend is trashed so i have no option but to change hotends.

>>1538578
>>1538583
Ill take a look, i have a clone boxed away somewhere.

[Anonymous No.1538604]

>>1538595
>TH3D
yes

[Anonymous No.1538616]

I stripped the thread in my hot end. I'm going to need to buy a new one, aren't I?

[Anonymous No.1538619]

>>1538616
You don't need to buy a whole new one.
You can just replace the part you fucked.

[Anonymous No.1538622]

>>1538619
It's a Chinese clone, I've no idea what brand heater block fits. Or are they universal? I've been running it with E3D nozzles and it looks the same, but I imagine the difficult to fit bits are where the throat connects to it.

[Anonymous No.1538626]

>>1538595
I hated TH3D marlin... but I love my BLtouch on official. To each their own.

[Anonymous No.1538627]

>>1538622
Don't most of these just use an E3D V6 clone?
Might as well buy a whole new one - they're like 3$ on Ali.

[Anonymous No.1538631]

>>1538627
Just sent my order in. If the extruder fits my printer, great, I can print a Bowden thing and do the >>1538583 stuff, if it doesn't fit I'll pay some uni student to print the bowden thing for me.

[Anonymous No.1538632]

Turned out fine. Made a baby Bender for the wife... need to align my seams, though on round parts.

[Anonymous No.1538634]

>>1538632
Round parts are the hardest to get clean. Love when I get stunning results on a craggly castle with tons of detail where the printer can hide seams.

[Anonymous No.1538639]

>>1538626
yea I might switch to the official one off github. oh well, shouldnt be too much of a hassle at this point

[Anonymous No.1538641]

>>1538495
Who is this guy?

[Anonymous No.1538648]

>>1538641
teachingtech on youtube. he makes tutorials on 3d printing mods and such

[Anonymous No.1538666]

Pretty happy with the results of this test
Are there better benchmarks out there?

[Anonymous No.1538671]

>>1538666
That's one of the better ones. You probably want to try another bridging test, I found that the bridges on that one were too short for my printer to struggle.

[Anonymous No.1538675]

>>1538566
yo, I like those enclosures, please tell me that is something I can buy at ikea.

[Anonymous No.1538684]

>>1538675
Not him, but the cheapest solution you'll find is https://www.ikea.com/se/sv/catalog/products/20011413/
Just buy some plexiglass to attach to the sides and you're done. Pretty easy to channel your wires as well, and mount fans and funnels if you need them. You can just assemble it and then pick it up and put it down over the printer, it doesn't weigh a lot, but tier 2 upgrade is to attach an MDF board on the bottom and making a hinged door for the front.

[Anonymous No.1538690]

>>1538675
Looks like an IKEA Stuva https://www.ikea.com/se/sv/catalog/products/30128177/ with Sindvik door. https://www.ikea.com/se/sv/catalog/products/90291858/
60cm width and height, 50cm depth.

[Anonymous No.1538692]

>>1538684
That is my original plan, I already have my ender 3 on a lack rack, but finding where to order the plexi I need seems meh.

[Anonymous No.1538696]

>>1538692
just go buy an acrylic sheet at HD.

[Anonymous No.1538697]

>>1538690
Okay, I'm going to IKEA after work. That's pretty cheap for such a good looking and low effort enclosure.

[Anonymous No.1538702]

>>1538696
I don't have a cutter though.

[Anonymous No.1538703]

>>1538702
Score it with a razor blade and a ruler and snap it.

[Anonymous No.1538704]

>>1538703
I guess that can work, it won't be all that thick anyways.

[Anonymous No.1538705]

Your enclosures will leak air like crazy if you use just acrylic or plexi. What you want is one sheet of plywood on the inside, a fibreglass insulation panel, and then a sheet of plywood on the outside.

[Anonymous No.1538706]

>>1538311
Linnmon tables are $9 and decently big, might work

[Anonymous No.1538707]

>>1538705
>plywood
Sure, if you want a shit enclosure. What you really want is a freezer (not plugged in, of course).
http://customcountrycreations.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/deep_freeze.jpg

[Anonymous No.1538708]

>>1538705
Unless you're PVCanon this shouldn't be an issue.

[Anonymous No.1538742]

>>1538705
You can chemically weld pieces together and they won't leak

[Anonymous No.1538743]

>>1538742
or just caulk/flextape it like a lazy shit.

[Anonymous No.1538752]

if i want to print custom threading for bolts and screws and stuff (first thing i need is an adapter for 3/8" to 5/8" with a slight bend, can't find that in a metric country), am I okay with PLA or do I need a resin/UV printer?

mainly after resolution high enough to print strong enough screws, don't really care about print speed or whatever

[Anonymous No.1538754]

>>1538752
Strong enough for what?
Printed screws will be weaker than bought plastic screws, and much, much weaker than steel screws.

[Anonymous No.1538762]

>>1538754
the first use case will need to suspend a ~1kg or 2.2lb object

other use cases will probably include repairing house appliances like vacuums or computer cases or making housing for computer components, nothing major in strength requirements

[Monoprice Anon No.1538763]

>>1538566
>>1538675
>>1538684
>>1538690
hey i made you a picture
>cabinet Stuva 003.299.74
>glass window Sindvik 902.918.58
>bottom doors Fritids 104.090.55
>shelf that printers are on Stuva Grundlig 001.289.97
>hinges for Sindvik window Besta 802.612.58
>sliding wire shelves inside the bottom half Stuva Grundlig 301.286.91
you're lucky i had the boxes lying around still, i just put them together this week. cost about $150 a cabinet including 2 wire roll out shelves inside the bottom of each.
now i still need help getting my first layer to stick on my maker select thing is pissing me off to no end

[Anonymous No.1538764]

>>1538762
1kg per 5/8" screw? Even if you print in something tough like ABS or PET you'll find that to be pretty much impossible. Repairing house appliances and computer cases means you'll be wanting M2 to M4. You might be able to get enough resolution with a resin printer, but no way can you make a functional M4 screw with a normal printer.

What you could try is just printing a cylinder with a diameter just under the screw width, and threading that into the socket with the aid of a heat gun. That way you don't need to print the very tricky screw threads. I still don't think it is a good idea. Just buy an assortment pack of bolts, there's a reason damn near every 3D printed project that needs bolts uses manufactured ones rather than printed ones.

[Monoprice anon No.1538765]

>>1538763
Forgot to add have $5 Monster white led strips on 45deg brackets around the top of both enclosures they get surprisingly bright with all the light bouncing off white interior walls of the cabinets

[Anonymous No.1538766]

>>1538764
I completely miscalculated inches. Yeah, 5/8 could probably hold a 1kg weight indefinitely, and should be easy enough to print. 3/8 inch screw is more dubious, but I've seen filament holders made from four printed bolts of roughly that size so I'd call it at least plausible.

The rest is still true though.

[Anonymous No.1538768]

>>1538765
I had a similar issue when I bought LEDstrips for my printer. I strapped them onto the frame, thinking they'd illuminate the print, but they mostly just shone into my eyes. Ended up scrapping them and just soldering a pair of 12V LEDs in parallel onto my extruder fan and printing a fan cover with mounting holes for them. Illuminate the nozzle and surrounding print pretty well without lighting up like a Times Square christmas display.

[Monoprice anon No.1538772]

>>1538768
If you look at my mini you'll see it has a small printed light bar over the print bed, it would barely illuminate anything even in the dark. I'm using the same strips for the cab lights and and they light up the whole enclosure to the point of a very well lit room no glare and very easy to see and for 5 bucks fuck it they do the job I need them to. As a bonus they the exact length to surround the entire upper perimeter like they're made to fit

[Anonymous No.1538779]

>>1538768
>soldering a pair of 12V LEDs in parallel onto my extruder fan and printing a fan cover with mounting holes
That's pretty clever desu
Dumb question: what components did you use and how did you wire it up?

[Anonymous No.1538786]

if my choices were between:

ender 3
creality 10s
anycubic i3 mega

what would you choose? these fall into my budget and are pretty easily available here in AU (300-450 AUD)

any strong objections?

[Anonymous No.1538787]

>>1538786
I own the Ender. I feel like the other 2 are out of it's price bracket. If I had to choose from that list I would say creality 10s, but I am happy with my ender 3 fwiw

[Anonymous No.1538789]

>>1538787
the ender is by far the cheapest out of those in AU
is that what you meant when you said out of it's price bracket?

[Anonymous No.1538791]

>>1538789
yea. Its around 200-300 cheaper where I am.

[Anonymous No.1538842]

>>1538337
Try out that temp as an initial layer temp and vary the normal temp to where it won't clump, also look into fan vent so each layer will harden earlier

[Anonymous No.1538845]

>>1538480
I'll try to flatten my aluminum buildplate first. I like the surface of the flexible bed if the ender.
Not so sure about glass yet. Any recommendations for a proper ender 3 glass plate?

[Anonymous No.1538849]

>>1538542
>If your printers z axis home places the nozzle that close to the bed it means your end stops are too low.
So they need to be moved up, thanks.
>I'm not sure why there would be two, but it'll likely just trigger on whichever on is higher up.
It has two Z-motors and two Z-endstops, to make sure that the gantry is level to the bed. Installing the endstops crooked would lead to the gantry not being level, obviously.

[Anonymous No.1538853]

>>1538845
I got polypropylene instead of glass for mine, works really well, pla sticks when hot and parts pops off as it cools

[Anonymous No.1538854]

>>1538578
>Most Ender3 posts I see on here printing benchies right out of the box look just as good as some covered in thousands of mods.

THIS!!
Beginners have problems like a jerking table or something like than and they try tackling it with modding.
Modding seemed to became a sport.
Assembling an Ender properly takes some time to get every screw just right. Propably not that easy for someone without a mechatronic background. The only mods I've done are a fan guard and alu rod endpiece to prevent the cables from catching to it. No other mods planned.

[Anonymous No.1538856]

>>1538853
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/1pc-New-235-235mm-Spring-Steel-Sheet-Heat-Bed-Platform-Flexible-Artificial-Model-For-Creality-Ender/3480083_32957153025.html

any try this spring steel bed?

[Anonymous No.1538858]

>>1538854
flash marlin so you get thermal runaway protection and check the XT60 connector to make sure it's soldered (or just replace the wires)

[Anonymous No.1538859]

>>1538854
>Assembling an Ender properly takes some time to get every screw just right.
Please explain, because I just put the bolts in the holes where they belong and tightened everything, yet it seems to print just fine. Is there some fancy voodoo magic to this?

[Anonymous No.1538861]

>>1538854
also some people get ender 3s with warped beds or x-gantrys that aren't square
also the included guide is retarded and skips steps like setting the eccentric nuts on the wheels

[Anonymous No.1538870]

>>1538859
I meant tightening the excentric screws, putting everything into a right angle, fixing Z-wobble etc. If you rush, there are plenty of things that can go wrong. Especially for a beginner.

>>1538858
>flash marlin so you get thermal runaway protection
Please correct me if I'm wrong but that doesn't make much sense to me:
This 'thermal runaway protection' relies on the exact same thermistors and the exact same micro as the stock ender.
The built in thermal regulation turns off the heat when it gets too hot.
If that fails theres either a problem with the thermistor or a problem with the micro or connection problems.
All of these woun't be covered by a 'marlin thermal runaway protection'

This would only make any sense if you'd add an extra independent thermistor or a second micro with a kill relais for the whole printer.

[Anonymous No.1538871]

>>1538870
>If that fails theres either a problem with the thermistor or a problem with the micro or connection problems.
>All of these woun't be covered by a 'marlin thermal runaway protection'
that's wrong tho
>thermistor stops working or reports wrong temp
>heated bed or hot end keeps trying to heat hence thermal runaway
>marlin notices that it's not increasing the temperature over time and shuts it down
the only thing it doesn't help is if the relay gets stuck closed or something

[Anonymous No.1538874]

>>1538871
that was the missing puzzlepiece

[Anonymous No.1538907]

>>1538870
>The built in thermal regulation turns off the heat when it gets too hot.

That's not at all what it does. Thermal runaway happens when the thermistor is (wrongly) reading a temperature that's lower than the set temp, the microcontroller keeps the heater on in order to reach it, but never does. So the thing keeps heating until the printer catches on fire. The chinks deliberately disable this protection because crappy connectors can sometimes cause the thermistor to intermittently read 0C for a second or two, triggering the runaway protection and halting the printer completely.

[Anonymous No.1538911]

>>1538907
>That's not at all what it does
Of course. It turns on heating until the set temperature is reached and turns it off until it falls below a temperature thershold and turns it on again.
>Thermal runaway happens when the thermistor is (wrongly) reading
Yes, just like I said
but
>>1538871
explained it right.
The protection would make sense in way when the heating is turned on but it doesn't correspondent in a relating temp increase by the thermistor feedback. That could be monitored and trigger an alarm/power off after a certain time threshold.
That way you could catch a failty thermistor/connection by software. Basically a sanity check.

[Anonymous No.1538935]

>>1538779
I got them in an assortment bag back when I was building Arduino robots, but really there's no specific component you need for this sort of thing. You buy a LED with the right voltage (12 for most printers) and colour (white LEDs tend to be a bit blueish, fair warning), solder the appropriate resistor (somewhere around 100 ohms, it's not too specific, lower resistance means more brightness but shorter lifespan) on one of the legs, solder on some wires of the right length, and cover all of that stuff up with heatshrink so you don't cause a short circuit. Pretty basic stuff. If you want to go even more basic you can buy this stuff premade and it will still cost you pretty much nothing. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-30-50pcs-DC-9-12V-3mm-5mm-8mm-10mm-Pre-Wired-LED-Diode-White-Red-Blue-Lights/382539517454?hash=item591121ce0e:m:m7af1rjKrZMIFskVmESSrfw:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true
I recommend buying 5mm diameter diodes. Then just print a holder with a 5mm hole for each diode, ream it out with a 4.8mm drill, and squeeze the diode in. It'll be stuck tight, but can be squeezed back out if you want to replace something.

[Anonymous No.1538938]

>>1538859
I took apart my x gantry 3 times in 2 months because my autism wanted it to be perfectly horizontal with a .1mm precision and all the wheels were not giving the same resistance when I tried to turn them with my fingers. But I guess thst's just me.

[Anonymous No.1538980]

>>1538403
Thanks as always.

NEW THREAD:
>>1538979
>>1538979
>>1538979

[Anonymous No.1539734]

>>1538935
Thanks