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/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself

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1534476 No.1534476 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Seriously, what's up with this. Are old houses just shit out of luck?

>> No.1534477

Replace the dimmer

>> No.1534479

dimming is dumb anyway
do you want light in the room or not? what's the point of half light? gay

>> No.1534481

How else can I brood on occasion

>> No.1534482

You can put extra bright lights in so you can see better cleaning, doing little projects etc but dim them down to a more normal room brightness most of the time. Also nice to dim the lights while watching tv or playing games

>> No.1534574

its the voltage mate. rheostat basically, designed for much larger voltages.

I burned out 5 capacitive touch sensor lights this week on LEDs, work fine with incandescent (if i didn't fry them first)

>> No.1534585

Some bulbs do work, I had the same problem had different bulbs and kept the one that worked.

>> No.1534596

Don't use LEDs in your house. The blue light hazard is significant, and they are electrically noisy (not as much as CFLs though)

>> No.1534606

Some LED bulbs do work with dimmers but they're more expensive. Ones that don't work with dimmers have "DO NOT USE WITH DIMMERS" clearly written on them somewhere.

>> No.1534608

Turn off the luminous jew and light some candles

>> No.1534611

There are warm leds, m8

>> No.1535731

>its the voltage mate. rheostat basically, designed for much larger voltages.

>> No.1535796

very simple you make the big light in the middle of the room bright enough to see in all the corners then you put in table or standing lamps with fancy shades and lower light warmer lamps to taste.
if you want to get hardcore about it you install special low current sockets in the wall near where the lamps will be and change your lightswitch to turn the big lamp and the small lamps on separately.

if you mean brood then lighs off. or ideally find a nice warm cupboard to hide in. if you mean breeding then you don't want a dimmer either unless you want a fucking argument about the correct amount of dimmness.
just turn the lights off, light from tv is enough to see where your cheesy snacks are and if your hands are clean enough to touch controllers.

dimmers are not rheostats a rheostat is an adjustable transformer while a dimmer usually clips the end off of the AC waveform with a diac or triac or some shit i cant remember but its not a voltage transformer.

>blue light hazard
? work on the same principle as cfl, except cfl uses uv to fluoresce the phosphor which is much more bad for you? so the choice between led and cfl you pick what? uv and noisy (and slow to warm up) over led? give me a break.

maybe he meant current? are leds too low current to work with old dimmers or something?

maybe its because of the capacitive voltage dropper in the led lamp, certainly it happens that e.g. hallway lights where there is more than one switch there can be enough current coupled between the strappers that a low power led lamp can parasitically draw a tiny current and when the capacitor inside has charged the led will briefly light, making the lamp flash briefly and dimly every few seconds or so, there are plenty of cases of that happening.

probably if you had a resistive element supplying the led there wouldn't be a problem.

>> No.1538216

This. It's like $20, OP.

>> No.1538510

>rheostat is an adjustable transformer
A rheostat is a potentiometer, they are one and the same. Adjustable resistor, not transformer.

>> No.1538549

got mixed up with variac, i promise i'm not actually retarded. well maybe a little

>> No.1538552

>supporting candle jews

>> No.1538553

LED products are no more hazardous than other lighting technologies that have the same CCT. Furthermore, white-light products
used in general lighting service applications are not considered a
risk for blue light hazard according to current international standards. Sensitive individuals may have additional concerns, and
colored light sources—which may be classified as Risk Group 2 or
higher and require a label to meet accepted standards—should be
evaluated on a case-by-case basis

>> No.1538676

>i consider light to be a hazard
real tough guy here

>> No.1538677

This is DIY, you should have 20lbs of unused candle wax chips you've been meaning to make candles with for the past ten years just like everyone else.

>> No.1538688

not all leds... there are a few tape stripes that have a driver you can use an incandescent dimmer or 0-10v style dimming on.

I only found that out 3-4 months ago when I installed about 150' of tape light.

>> No.1538710

The fuck do I use then? Incandescents are banned except for specialty bulbs.

>> No.1538807


>> No.1538827

>they are electrically noisy
So are triac dimmers.

>> No.1538893

That guy is a retard.

>> No.1538895

It isn't any more of a hazard than any other light, anon. You'd need to be staring directly into the bulb to actually be harmed.

>electrically noisy

Christ, anon. Get ones that are not noisy or wire for 12v and keep the PSU in the utility closet. There's not a single thing that uses electric that isnt noisy in some fashion.

>> No.1538899
File: 21 KB, 582x600, DCE2C12A-63B0-40A8-B9CF-ABF7FFA4F904.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

OP, there’s some bad info in this thread so we’re going to start from scratch. Unless your house has been untouched by an electrician since the 60s, Any dimmers you may have for incandescent lights are “leading edge” dimmers. They are cheap to make using either a single triac or a simple series of diacs and can easily handle very high wattage loads. The problem is the mains power is switched ON during peak voltage and in some circuits this drives a current spike, especially on low-load applications like LED lighting. Since the driver circuits inside LED bulbs themselves use a capacitive voltage dropper to smooth out the DC bus needed to drive the actual LED chips, this huge spike in current will quickly damage the control circuit.
Dimmers that day they’re capable of dimming dim-able CFL, LED, and traditional bulbs are called “trailing edge” because they switch on at zero crossing and turn off at the desired percentage of the way through the cycle. This means there’s no current spike, you can run them at very low load (like for LED lighting), and your bulbs’ driver circuits will be much more stable. They also typically run quieter at high loads than the leading edge counter parts. There’s no simple circuit or single component that does this for you though, and I THINK modern ones use FETs of some sort to control the timing and operate a power transistor - but I’d have to look that last part up so don’t quote me there.

TLDR: dimmable LED bulbs + LED (trailing edge) dimmer and you can dim to your hearts content. Though I will warn you, you can’t make LEDs dim allllll the way down to almost nothing like you can with incandescents.

Hope that helps.

>> No.1538904
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>electrically noisy
It’s ok, put on your tin foil hat and come over here - I’ve got something I think you’ll want to buy!

>> No.1538914

>blue light hazard
Is this the new "Korean Fan Death"?

>> No.1539409
File: 153 KB, 1920x1080, 1544772700177.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

5g and blue lights are will make your dick fly off

>> No.1539425

>the absolute state of /g/
come back when you learn about harmonics

>> No.1539443

If you're afraid of electromagnetic waves, you should know that your whole house is basically one big antenna with all those electric wires. And that is not a few LEDs that will change anything.

>> No.1539448

thats your answer? you certainly don't know a lot about electricity

>> No.1539449
File: 43 KB, 679x679, 61A+DzgKnwL._SX679_[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>less power is more harmful
This meme needs to die

So tell me then, what is light and how does it work? Bonus points if you can somehow manage to explain why light doesn't actually travel.

Dumb solution, but get those smart bulbs and just dim them with your phone. They're nice cause they're usually multicolored.

>> No.1539455

t.technology illiterate boomer scum

>> No.1539458

you talked about electrical noise being tinfoil hat material
something every retard could measure with a simple oscilloscope
now you changed topic to em waves, actuall tinfoil hat stuff

That aside, blue light certainly does strain the eye, maybe not for everyone
without night mode i cant look at my screen in the evening for long

>> No.1539459

oil lamp

>> No.1539466

I'm >>1539443, not >>1539449 nor >>1538904.
If it isn't for "tinfoil hat theories", what is your problem with electrical noise?
Unless you intend to put it in a laboratory, about any kind of electrical device will not harm what is around it.
Please, answer with actual arguments, I want to understand.

>> No.1539541

Well that certainly put me in my place, senpai.

>> No.1539589

So, in a power system harmonics are very a real thing. The 3rd and 5th harmonics (180 and 300Hz respectively) generated by non-linear loads such as switch mode power supplies in computers for example can - in large numbers like that of an office building - have a measurable and very negative effect on the power system supplying the building. It essentially creates “load” on the transformer and lines feeding the system that older meters or protective devices can not detect, and makes delicate power supplies and motors run at very low efficiency. The other worry is that it makes your utility charge you more, which for the vast majority of customers is just not true. Even if it was, the cost difference would be <1% of the bill for the average house.
That being said, unless you’re doing something crazy like mining bitcoin in your basement on hundreds of machines, your house will literally NEVER reach a level of harmonic distortion capable of damaging home electronics.

The theory that these harmonics can, in some way, harm a human (that isn’t currently putting a fork in the socket) is truely asinine, tin foil hat level shit.

>> No.1539910

Thanks :-)
So, in OPs case, LEDs shouldn't be a problem, right?

>> No.1540010
File: 1.81 MB, 3024x4032, 4ABCFC78-8B9F-4FA4-93BD-AC3C8AA7FC67.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

For the sake of being 100% accurate, LED lights and the dimmers used for LEDs do create some 3rd and 5th order harmonics. But even if you had dimmed LEDs lighting your entire house, and a dozen laptop chargers running all at once, the total load that creates is so small the voltage waveform you see at the outlet will be smooth enough for ANY consumer electronics. I’m grasping at straws to come up with an exception to this in a home... maybe if you’re an audiophile you would want some extra filtering on the input of your amps?

As kind of a side note to prove my point; pic related is the noise generated from a 100HP variable frequency drive running 1100 RPM (35Hz feed on a 60Hz supply) giving the mathematical maximum harmonic distortion of current. The wonky, rippled wave is the three phase current, and the mostly sinusoidal waves are the voltage. The voltage distortion is fairly minimal because the source is appropriately sized for the load. Same goes for your house: a very small amount of shitty non-linear load doesn’t have an effect on the overall 200A service for your home.

TLDR: LEDs are fine, don’t be a fudd. Leave your fear of the harmonic boogeyman to the real engineers.

>> No.1540013

Sorry, I got spun up and went off point. What OP needs is a dimmer that is designed to work on LEDs, and LEDs that are designed to work with dimmers. Just like I mentioned here >>1538899
Home Depot, Lowe’s, Menard’s, and Tractor supply carry both.

>> No.1542716

>luminous jew
>candle jews

thank you for enlightening me

>> No.1542724

I hope this is right. I thought some of the LED/CFL-compatible dimmers used pulse-width-modulation of a triac-like device, but when I tested mine it looked like a normal triac. Now I can see why.

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