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/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself

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File: 529 KB, 1800x1800, Thankyouanon.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1532055 No.1532055 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Actually decent OP picture Edition
Old thread: >>1529065
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy

>Need help with prints? Go to:

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 3-1-2019]
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free:

>> No.1532058
File: 174 KB, 1152x864, g81x8gx9qv821[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

First for pew pew

>Under 500 USD
I'd have to vote for the Qidi X-One 2, if it ever gets back in stock.

>> No.1532063

>Any reason I shouldn't buy the Anycubic Chiron? 435 EUR for a CR-10S Pro with S4 build volume seems like a good deal.

>> No.1532080

Aww cool my bulbasaur is in the collage, I'm working on a bigger one to use as a garden gnome I'll post pics soon

>> No.1532092

Descent. Hell yeah let's see

>> No.1532095
File: 61 KB, 640x850, 1546370097146.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

How expensive is it to print shit all day? Not worried much about power but the filimant for random shit. Mostly will be just desctop crap but i want to build gears for kids power wheels and shit. And if i could get thethem durrable enough to use for other projects it would be cool. I just dont want to buy an ender 3 and then let it rot because filament is to expensive.

>> No.1532102

>How expensive is it to print shit all day?
Ultimaker 2 can print 24mm3/s with the right nozzle, which is about 0.03 grams per second, or about 1.8 gram per minute. A 750g spool of filament at maximum flow rate will last you about 7 hours at that rate, but that's really the upper end of what most machines will do.

Practically speaking, you can use about a spool of filament every day on a machine, which is between 10 and 50 EUR depending on material and quality, 20 EUR is about average (if not above average).

However, it's up to you how much you use, and how many days per week you'll be printing. I find that I'm designing more than actual printing, but that's the other way if you're just starting out. For a bit more scope: on our uni the average consumption rate is about 2 rolls of filament for a projectgroup. A typical project lasts about 10 weeks, and includes a team of 6-10 people, so that's way less than a roll per week. It becomes a lot more when you're a dedicated designer though, with direct access to a printer.

>> No.1532114

I see. Well thank you anon. I think i can swing that after Valentine's day. Hope to have a shop full printing away but I'll start small and learn the machine. Assuming what we make takes off it shoukd be a fast and cheap crash course to becoming at least ameture teir with a printer and fusion 360.

I cant tell u how many times it would pay itself off it i can use it to make ceramic molds for custom aluminum parts my buddy uses. He's going to love it if it works

>> No.1532178

I don't understand the Caitlyn hate, She doesn't look that awful considering her age and I don't think she was doing it for attention because if you look at old footage the feminisation has been going on since the 80s.

Printing gears is problematic, printer tolerance is generally bad, ABS may warp even and you have to watch the gear RPM and torque because 3D printed parts can't take a lot of stress. I wouldn't say it's not doable though, you just have to be careful with your design and finishing, it's not a case of print and go.

>> No.1532250

How do i set a priming line in slic3r?

I added this to the Start G-code textbox:
G1 Z0.2 F3000 ; lift Z
G92 E0 ;reset extrusion
G1 Y120 E10 F600 ; prime
G1 Y150 F5000 ;wipe

When i start the print, the printer executes the above lines before M109 S... so it tries to cold extrude. Is it possible to add lines after M109 S...?

>> No.1532268

just add M109 S[first_layer_temperature] before your priming line in your start gcode

>> No.1532274

>M109 S[first_layer_temperature]
Cool, thanks.

>> No.1532310

For the ender 3 owners out there, you might have noticed Cura can't connect to your ender 3. The devs are retarded and it's a bug in their usbprinting.py plugin and they won't fix it because "third party printer lol". You can search this and fix it yourself, or you can also use another program called printrun which is available from any relevant Linux repo or online for Windows users. It has one feature that I've never found anywhere else: area exclusion mid print. If you're making a chain and printing 10 links and 1 of them shits itself, you can pause the print, tell it to not print in that x-y range the link is on and resume the print to save 9 links and save filament. That alone makes it worth trying. I couldn't get it to do any slicing on its own so I just use Cura for that. Here's an example workflow that I use.
>Cura: save gcode
>printrun: import gcode
It's not quite as refined as octopi, but connecting direct to a PC has perks that an RPI can't offer.

>> No.1532314
File: 16 KB, 300x169, serveimage.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Why aren't we using these things for bed levelling? Why mount extra shit on the hot end when you can just rigidly mount the bed, put one of these under the nozzle when levelling and let the printer handle the offset?

>> No.1532318
File: 40 KB, 800x800, HTB1xbRsXsyYBuNkSnfoq6AWgVXaH.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Why not just put this on the nozzle?

>> No.1532328
File: 180 KB, 1500x1500, 430d024f-42c6-40dd-b5f6-0275b24edfa2.jpg._CB308539489_[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

That's how the lulzbot mini works for each corner of the bed. Other printers use a prox sensor to read the whole build plate.

>> No.1532353

Im using octoprint with cura plugin and works fine for me.

>> No.1532491

anyone ever printed some miniatures? like 40k?

>> No.1532493

not 40k, but I've tried to print a few D&D characters and monsters
I have a MP mini2 so none of them came out very nice

>> No.1532500

Is ender3 still the hot new meme printer or has something else come along?

>> No.1532516

FDM isn't great for minis. However, resin printers like the Photon produce great results.

That said I use my MP mini2 for Minis and its Ok. A .2 Nozzle helps, as well as fine tuned settings. Retraction is the biggest pain in the ass.

>> No.1532525

Check out makers muse's video on printing for his battlebots. He makes some gears that held up pretty well, but it might be an order of magnitude different for an actual vehicle.

>> No.1532537

So i'm using simplify3d, but the extruder when the print is done stops on the model, melting a chunk of it.

right now it's not to much of an issue, but it is an issue I would like a solution for, but googling the answer just tells me I don't know what the problem is called.

>> No.1532539

Yeah but with a puck you could mesh level.

>> No.1532540

Yeah, I've printed a 28mm scale knight and a bunch of epic stuff.

>> No.1532542

You need to edit the print end g code in the settings. Just copy the home commands from the starting code and omit the z axis.

>> No.1532598

I did that at first and then the RPI died on me. No clue how. It booted once and then after the reboot nothing. Luckily Amazon's replacement policy lets me try the replacement and the old one side by side - that's the only way to check if the Pi3 B+ is defective or not.

>> No.1532600

It's still the hot new meme printer. Until a cheaper, more effective printer comes out it's liable to stay that way.

>> No.1532607

>that's the only way to check if the Pi3 B+ is defective or not.

Uhm no?
Just flash a different SD with a fresh os and see if it boots. If not wipe the bootloader and try again.
If that fails you know the RPi is dead.

>> No.1532615

Not quite. They have been shitting themselves at random thanks to the GPIO pins, and the official documentation says for the 3 B+ the only surefire way to check is to try booting a known good one side by side with your "bad" one to see if it works.
So that's what I'm gonna do.

>> No.1532635

When you guys do the "paper method" to level your heat bed, do you get it just at the height the paper won't slide under the nozzle anymore, or do you lower the nozzle until it touches the paper an then pull it out an move the nozzle and repeat?
For me, leveling the bed is taking a long time I'm still on the first corner I started on, I tried moving to another corner but my nozzle was touching the glass, when I corrected, the other corner was fucked up again.

>> No.1532657
File: 614 KB, 2048x1539, 1wuryuvt66921.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Get on my level, faggots.

>> No.1532659

Based if real.

>> No.1532660

Bacteria will develop intelligence because of you placing monoliths in its world.

>> No.1532663

>printing with rafts

>> No.1532664

shitty first layer
0/10 would not inject into my bloodstream

>> No.1532665

Hey speed racer, youre tires are flat.

>> No.1532670

>believing the white supremacy myth that Charlemagne existed because you can't bear the fact of KANGZ

>> No.1532677

So is the way you do this, is you make a graphite bed and then you just layer the graphite on? Wow it really is a 3d printer.

>> No.1532681

Charlemane was a christcuck faggot

>> No.1532683

nice raft

>> No.1532686

You do it so that the paper can move between the nozzle and the bed, but drags on it just a little bit.

>> No.1532691

sick overhang at the wing

>> No.1532693

Octavian only true Augustus
Fight me plebeian

>> No.1532712

Will do, thanks.

>> No.1532729

Wow I had no idea about threaded inserts, I was going to glue on an entire shaft collar :/ Thanks!

>> No.1532734

jea, have fun sourcing your 2 photon litography capable resins.

>> No.1532735

Is the Creality CR-10S S5 good? I want it for printing large aero parts. Is it easy to set up? That's my main concern.

>> No.1532742

ah, you mean booting with GPIO connected?
Have you tried booting it with nothing connected except HDMI an a fresh sd?

>> No.1532770
File: 158 KB, 1024x803, IMG_20190108_082314.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I'm practicing my prayer switching already

>> No.1532795

got any pics? I would like to know if they turn out pretty well.

>> No.1532810


>> No.1532821

I just updated my ender 3 to marlin, and now every time I go to print off of an SD card it lists the oldest files on it first rather than newest first as the creality firmware did. Is there any way to change this sorting? I see an option in the marlin documentation for alphabetical sorting, but that doesn't seem very useful.

>> No.1532908
File: 6 KB, 250x250, 1537585537698.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>unironically uses the word 'problematic'
Fucking onions faggots. Why is it that you faggots cannot just reply to the question but have to wordily defend anything degenerate you see. And the fact you have no idea how strong nylon gears are.

>> No.1532910

He actually uses 'problematic' in a context that isn't obnoxious though.

>> No.1532916
File: 721 KB, 720x594, spottheretard.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

It's always obnoxious. Stop defending faggots that think printing gears for toy racecars is 'problematic'.

>> No.1532918
File: 59 KB, 900x675, aid283436-v4-900px-Be-More-Thoughtful-Step-9.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

So in other words, you're saying the word 'problematic' is problematic?

>> No.1532919


Does anyone use myminifactory.com ?

>> No.1532925
File: 1.43 MB, 322x281, 1541717362376.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I'm convinced you're a brainlet faggot too.

>> No.1532927

Theres some neat stuff on there, but they have "premium" artists and I just personally find it a bit annoying
Also I'm not a fan of the U.I. and general layout

>> No.1532929

Can some super hero anon print me a bed screw for a MP mini?
My dad dropped one of them while I was putting my printer back together and the web store says they wont be back in stock until at least 2/13

>> No.1532932


>> No.1532935

Where do you live and will you pay for postage?

>> No.1532960

And we are talking about 3D printed ABS here, not injection moulded ABS

>> No.1532961

*injection moulded nylon.

>> No.1532962

North Alabama, yes I would
The heads are too big on those, and theres nothing in the catalogue there that's just right

>> No.1532969

I'm pretty close, is there a thingiverse file for the screw head or something, or is it just a long m3 screw?

>> No.1532971

Buy yourself a m3 threaded rod, it costs at most a dollar for a yard. Cut it to the right length, and then cut a tiny channel at the top. Ta-dah, you've made a headless screw, perfect for any flat head bit.

>> No.1532982

Last thread I asked about calipers but I couldn't follow up with the replies.
I forgot to say that I need the pieces I would be printing to fit as precisely as possible because I'm making pieces to modify an action figure so I'm looking to be as precise as possible with my measurements.

Is my best choice the digital or the vernier calipers? I can find both for about the same price.

>> No.1532997

You'll get the same precision with both if you're buying shitty ones. I'd recommend against cheap digital ones because they eat batteries when they're not in use, and you'll be constantly picking up a pair only to find it dead. If you can read a vernier then go with them, but also look into dial calipers as they're nicer to read.

>> No.1533005

>If you can read a vernier
There are people who can't? Don't they teach wood shop any more?

>> No.1533009

I don't know how to, wtf is the scale on the sliding part for?

>> No.1533010

You mean this thing?

>> No.1533019

>Don't they teach wood shop any more?
Instead of having woodwork I had art class and "tutoring" in my country. You are quite literally banned from learning anything useful before finishing high school.

Also, I can't find a dial caliper from here. Maybe I'll have to go to search for it later in the week.

>> No.1533020
File: 64 KB, 1200x835, measuring_with_metric_vernier_caliper.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

That's the vernier. What you do is clamp something in the calipers, and read the big scale. 0 on the little scale marks where you should read. If it isn't perfectly on one of the big lines, you'll want to look at the number to the left. So if you're in between 4 and 5, you read 4. What you do next is read the vernier. This tells you with 0.02mm accuracy (usually). How you do it is simple. See how most of the small lines don't align with the lines on the big scale? Look for the line on the small scale that aligns best with any line on the big scale. This is your precise measurement. Easy peasy, but much better demonstrated with a gif.
So, let's look at the picture. We start by reading the big scale. Left of the 0 mark is 28mm. We now read the vernier scale. The best alignment is at 6, right? That means our measurement here is 28.6mm.
It isn't as exact as a digital caliper, but it's good enough 99% of the time and it'll never run out of batteries. Usually cheaper too.

>> No.1533022

>It isn't as exact as a digital caliper,
it's just as exact as a digital caliper with one decimal place.

>> No.1533024

I've never seen one with so few decimals, but you're still a bit wrong. Almost all verniers have +/- 0.02mm accuracy, as the vernier scale is usually only graduated into fifty steps. Each line on the vernier scale represents 0.02mm, whereas a digital caliper with two decimals would show .01.
Like I said though 99% of the time they're good enough, and it's not like Chinese digital calipers are that well calibrated anyway. Learning to read a vernier is very easy, and reading it is quick. I've been measuring stuff for two decades and never felt a need for a digital one.
I'm sorry to hear that. My school taught art one year as a mandatory, and then two years as an elective between art and music. We also got a "crafts" elective, which was a choice between wood+metalshop and sowing, four years of crafts in total. We then had high school electives, where you could choose stuff like computer science, or childcare, or carpentry, economics and science, bunch of other stuff including car mechanics, sort of like a mini-college. Then there was real college.

Wood+metalshop was the best though. I made a morakniv, a sort of craftsman's knife, with a bone and leather wrap handle that I still use today, also a composite bow and and steel arrowheads, though blunted, and a riveted viking helmet. I know kids today aren't allowed to make knives and bows, but they still do have crafts. They make stuff like shelves and key cabinets nowadays.

Anyway, just buy a cheap vernier caliper. It'll be good enough, your 3D printer won't print accurately enough for 0.02mm to matter and you'll be filling your part for a perfect fit anyway.

>> No.1533036

how do you make a smooth print? do you rub it with alcohol after it's finished to melt the plastic or something?

>> No.1533038

ABS you can dip in acetone, other plastics you'll probably need to sand and slap on a layer of primer paint.

>> No.1533043

wow, thanks!

>> No.1533048

No, this thing
I havent looked for a file, I'm not positive what size it is I'm. It around them
I dont have any saws with metal rated blades

>> No.1533050

Go to a hardware store. Many will have saws for customers to borrow, usually just after the checkout registers. One of them is always a hacksaw.

>> No.1533051

>this thing
...that's just a m3 bolt. Just buy one, you don't need their fancy super-ultra titanium-plated gold-core bolt.

>> No.1533054

Some quick googling has told me that it's a 16mm M3 bolt with a countersunk flat head. You won't be able to print a suitable replacement, it's way too small a bolt. Either just buy one from Monoprice, fifty from China, or one 20mm from a hardware shop and cut it down to 16mm.

>> No.1533055
File: 15 KB, 552x341, 1532712271psykokwak.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>people recommending dial and vernier calipers over $10 digital ones

Even having to put in a battery every 6 months is worth instantly seeing a numerical readout instead of having to think about it

I guarantee $10 Chinese digital calipers are fine for anything you can do with a consumer-grade 3D printer

>> No.1533056

>waiting four weeks for a caliper to arrive when you could just go buy one for the same price at your closest biltema

>> No.1533060

I get mine in two days from Amazon, what are you talking about

>> No.1533064

As the owner of an imperial one with a dial on it, I agree with this post. Yes I can read it. No I don't want to. Fuck yes I want to switch between metric and standard at the push of a button.

>> No.1533065
File: 38 KB, 509x499, wagei2oc3ujy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I like using a vernier calliper because it makes me look like a real engineer.

>> No.1533069

Why does anyone even use imperial?
I can't imagine a clunkier system to take measures in.

>> No.1533075

Because freedom.

>> No.1533076

Fuck off, commie.

>> No.1533093

Because the person before me used imperial and now I have to use it too

>> No.1533107
File: 969 KB, 2046x2728, NoMoreShop.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>Don't they teach wood shop any more?

>> No.1533108
File: 618 KB, 1201x884, MAD.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Fuck Imperial, it makes aerospace engineering a pain in the ass because most sensible US and European companies have their measurements in metric, but a few (major) US companies use arbitrary retarded measurements. Decimal is tolerable, but fractional imperial makes me want to go and personally kick that person's dick clean off

>> No.1533110
File: 78 KB, 781x669, 1541089480406.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>fractional imperial
Just an FYI to everyone in general
Off yourself if you use fractional imperial

>> No.1533124
File: 801 KB, 1437x1056, 20180621_135026.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1533127

How do you fuck up that bad with a chop saw

>> No.1533128
File: 15 KB, 600x384, 8a4.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>Be European
>Entire project in metric
>need a specific hard to find part
>it's only available in USA
>it's in imperial

>> No.1533130

Assuming you're not a complete retard or deliberately shooting for workmans comp? Getting distracted by some buddyfucker while you're trying to work.

>> No.1533131

Wow anon, that's FDM printed?

>> No.1533134
File: 72 KB, 540x718, Fuckwits.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Fuck if I know, the kids in that class managed to ruin TWO angle grinders, a drill press, several hand tools, and the fucking concrete floor itself. Absolute retards.

>> No.1533202
File: 20 KB, 220x440, 220px-Abbesches_Komparatorprinzip.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Stop telling people you can repeably measure more exact than 0.2mm with a caliper. (analog or digital)
Yes it shows higher resolution,
Yes it is advertised like this,
no this precision is not given due to the overall measurment concept of a caliper.

When you're talking 0.02 (!!), the amount of heat from your hand will set the measurment off.
Ever wondered why micrometers have a plastic guard as a handle? To keep it from warming up by your hand.
Micrometers reach to about 0.02 and they have to be calibrated with nominal gauges to the given temperature and humidity.

Anything more precise than that can only be achieved with a CMM in a climated environment using statistical methods. (eg. determining a diameter with gauss-deviation, outscribed circle, inscribed circle, center of area-mass of the given contour or whatever you are looking for)

(skilled industrial mechanic and quality engineer in automotive)

>> No.1533211

Does that mean carbon fiber calipers are actually better than steel calipers?

>> No.1533213

So are you saying that a measurement taken by a caliper is only accurate +/- 0.1 mm despite the impression given by the vernier? That's pretty interesting.

>> No.1533215

A quality set of calipers is good for about .002" (.051mm)
Cheaper ones can be trusted to about .005" (.013mm)
(refurbished cutting tools with a tolerance of .0002" sometimes, and built industrial machines)

>> No.1533222

>.005" (.013mm)

>> No.1533223

Even 0.1mm is veeery optimistic for a caliper. Only a high quality, well adjusted one could reach 0.1mm.
Classical vernier sane resolution is considered to be 0.1. Mine goes to 0.05 but this precision is imaginary due to other circumstances during measurment.

What are you even talking about?
>A quality set of calipers is good for about .051mm
>Cheaper ones can be trusted to about .013mm
Your cheap example is 5x more precise than your expensive one

Where do you get your wisdom from? Ever looked into measurment theory?
Why do other measurment instruments (like much more expensive micrometers) even exist when calipers are as precise as you claim them to be?

>> No.1533303
File: 756 KB, 1257x881, like can one make.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

/3DPG/ Designs a desktop FDM machine.
Post features and specs a ideal printer should have.

>> No.1533310


>> No.1533312

Heated bed

>> No.1533318

We still do where i live.

>> No.1533335

If you can't work in both thou and millimeters, you're a fucking brainlet.

If you're measuring properly, properly adjusted vernier calipers rated to 0.05mm will be accurate to 0.05mm.

t. actually compared measurements between micrometers and calipers

>> No.1533343
File: 2.14 MB, 4048x3036, 15470461771652996757881147062017.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Not him, but you can get reasonable quality prints fucking around with settings. My Ender 3 isn't really dialed in at all and I've been pretty happy with my results.

>> No.1533348
File: 3.07 MB, 4048x3036, IMG_20190110_010546.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

This Tigrex's wings are sheer enough that light comes through. Really did not think it would survive support removal

>> No.1533351

is fusion 360 an IP stealing botnet like Cura?

>> No.1533353

>Bed that heats to 100C within 10 minutes
>300^3 mm minimum build volume
>Scalable architecture up to 500^3 mm
>V6 Volcano hotend
>Titan direct extruder
>Duet motherboard
>Enclosure panels that attach via magnets
>Ships with three buildplates: glass, PEI and spring steel
Off the top of my head.

>> No.1533356
File: 20 KB, 350x350, mono24653028-160707-02.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


this is bullshit
a good digital caliper (mitutoyo) will give you a 0.02mm precision, and thats a minimun, in my machine shop we check them time to time with gauge block and 9/10 times they read the exact correct value (a 1.00mm gauge will read 1.00mm)

>> No.1533373

>take nozzle end
>connect positive terminal of multimeter
>take metallic tape of known thickness
>put it on the bed
>connect negative terminal to multimeter
>lower nozzle until current flows across the meter
This could be integrated into the bed, just put in a tiny piece of metal on each corner.

>> No.1533391

That cobblestone terrain looks really cool too.

>> No.1533402

A large slot machine type handle that you pull to load the gcode and start the print.

>> No.1533403

No, just opt out of all the tracking shit and you're fine

>> No.1533404

It should be able to print tendies

>> No.1533409
File: 76 KB, 477x404, 1513077855045.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Excuse me whaaaat

>> No.1533425

Printing gears with nylon works great, just use at most a .25mm nozzle for small gears, nylon filament, that you bake before you print, and a PVA bed adhesive, gluesticks FTW.

For even better gears remember to increase your number of perimeters to 4 or greater, then grease them up when installed.

It's not fukken hard. Most RC gears are some variety of glass or fiber reinforced nylon anyways. And those are the high end shit. Most average stuff is nylon.

PS if you're a poorfag just go to the bigbox store and buy some round weed-wacker line. Make sure it is approximately the same size as your filament 1/16 ~=1.75, bake that shit then print with it.

>> No.1533430

How difficult would it be to add a laser engraver to a 3d printer like a creality?

>> No.1533432

>class of 08
Had woopshop, welding, small engine repair, CAD/mechanical drawing, automotive, and art available.
Do zoomers really not have this shit?

>> No.1533434
File: 16 KB, 358x371, 1543461905828.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>frakshuns iz hard guiz

>> No.1533435

I hate that I never took advantage of any of the classes you listed except art which was a required class. At least these zoomers have the excuse.

>> No.1533439

I only took woodshop and art and wish i took others aswell, art wasnt required but the other classes where full. Woodshop teacher was a total bro.

>> No.1533442

>printing with weedwacker line
How fucking ghetto lmao
Has anyone actually done this?

>> No.1533445

Gonna try lithosphane for the first time, Any ideal settings for 0.2mm nozzle? PLA. Should I lower the speed of the print or something?

>> No.1533446

>bake that shit
At what temperature for how long?

>> No.1533451

I want to try it now after reading it, thanks /3dpg/

>> No.1533452

Only the brainlet schools offer workshop classes in my country.

>> No.1533454

Don't forget to order a spare hotend and nozzles.

>> No.1533456

Pretty simple, I would think; design & print a mount, detatch hot end, attach laser. Wiring it i to the board is probably the hard part (but even then I don't think it's hard).

>> No.1533464
File: 10 KB, 617x80, 3dpg.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Thats how we we're rolling back in the days.

>> No.1533516

>PS if you're a poorfag just go to the bigbox store and buy some round weed-wacker line. Make sure it is approximately the same size as your filament 1/16 ~=1.75, bake that shit then print with it.
lmao what am I reading?
Decimals are easier, who has time to fuck around with fractions on a big complicated project?
Really hard to find this stuff in my country, it's all third sector focused education these days

>> No.1533533
File: 2.80 MB, 1168x881, la même culture.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>lmao what am I reading?
Its true, just don't get a thermal runaway with that stuff in the nozzle

>> No.1533558

How do I level the printbed? Anycubic i3Mega. Is it literally just put the extruder as low as possible and turn the knobs until a one piece of paper can fit between? If so then I have done it right,. Just wondering because the printer has the axis option where I can choose + 10, 1, 0,1 etc on the different axisses or is that just for maintanance?

>> No.1533559

I think so but it's also breddy gud, can recommend.
How is cura a botnet?

>> No.1533564

I'm doing this on my tornado right now, but someone here said to make it so you can feel the paper slightly drag on the tip of the extruder, rather than simply let it fit between.

>> No.1533571

Well yeah, that but I dont need to save to memory anything was more what I was getting at.

>> No.1533650

My BCN3D Sigma has these instructions:
>Using a standard piece of printer paper, put it under the nozzle and raise the bed
>The bed is at the right height when you can easily pull the paper but when you push the paper it bunches up at the nozzle

Seems to work great for me.

>> No.1533651
File: 76 KB, 609x451, 1535469725669.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


holy shit stop making me want to print using weed whacker cord to satisfy my curiosity, i swear i'll do it if you don't stop

>> No.1533652

Same, with my Ender I wiggle a piece of printer paper underneath while tightening the knob (replaced the standard shit springs with those tight yellow ones) and wiggle the paper back and forth until the nozzle vibrates audibly. Repeat at all four corners about an inch and a half in twice, everything stays set for many prints afterwards

>> No.1533691

who fucking cares, we're not nasa

>> No.1533692

>tfw gave Fusion 360 my full name
How fucked am I?

>> No.1533700

I pre-heat the nozzle before I start. Any leftover filament on the end of the nozzle will throw off leveling by a great deal, but if it's melted first it just comes off on the paper.

>> No.1533706

So the version of Cura that comes with Ubuntu got updated sometime in the last 24 hours or so. It connects to an ender 3 now! It's not that great though.
>fire up Cura
>It interferes with printrun, printer freezes
>print lost
>try printing with cura instead
>Screen turns off from disuse
>Printer stops
>Head and nozzle stay heated
>giant glob of PLA on piece
>refuses to resume printing
>print lost
Gonna try octopi next. Printrun is really nice though. It has a very unprofessional homebrew appearance and a console but give it gcode and it gives you a reliable print.

>> No.1533712

Thanks for this advice, what temp do you heat it to for this? My Tornado DOES have some mystery filament on the nozzle out of package, so I need to melt it off and restart my level.

>> No.1533723

Can I put weed eater string in my 3d printer?

>> No.1533777

If we're talking high school, no. We had band, drama, sculpture, a handful of art classes, and "engineering" which consisted of the teacher giving us a book-sized packet of pages and told us to "use this to learn Inventor", and the next year teacher being an architecture dropout. The latter is where >>1533107 came from.

>> No.1533783

Sure; nylon off gasses hydrogen chloride when you melt it though. Print under a fume hood.

>> No.1533820
File: 63 KB, 325x269, 1538595471060.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1533830

I know amateur 3d printing is still a fairly new hobby with a limited support infrastructure but fucking shit the only place in town that sold M3 was grainger in a 100ct pack, but it was cheaper than Amazon and theyll be here sooner
I also ordered a piece of glass to go over my bed, is there anything special I should know about adding it?

>> No.1533832
File: 217 KB, 717x960, 1537845832873.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>can't find m3
I know that feel. Uh as for the glass thing, you just clip it on the sides to the bed. Some people are fancy and like an aluminum square underneath the glass, but I'm convinced that don't do much for heat distribution that the glass isn't already doing.

>> No.1533847
File: 50 KB, 1080x949, f1f6b630e35050d8ff4a6069528f2538.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>hydrogen chloride gas

>> No.1533864
File: 31 KB, 595x445, 1f63a00c06d785b0395bf405f5c9a995.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

a company developed the tech for this a few years back.
Here, have a coliseum smaller than the diameter of a matchstick.

>> No.1533898

>gave google my real name
Fixed it for ya
>how fucked am i?
Breddy fuggd.

>> No.1533902

When you feed ink into your extruder, do you put the unheating filament all the way through the tube to the extruder, or does it pull it through the tube automatically?

>> No.1533931
File: 1.25 MB, 320x280, 1546703997967.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


thoose are fucking amazing
could you show yours support material configuration on this ?

>> No.1533949

I can't speak for primer man, but I use pirated Simplify 3D for mine so I don't know if my settings can be helpful for you.

>> No.1533950

Post a pic of the printer in question and I can tell you. Its not the same for every printer.

>> No.1533953

I just use the default values on Siepie's minis profile from 3dprintedtabletop.com.
The supports are off my default on the bigger stuff, and those two minis I leant back on a 45° angle.
I'm still a noob at this but it is extremely exciting.

>> No.1534038

200, the usual melting temperature. If I'm cleaning the nozzle, I'll put it to 90 or 100. Warm enough to make it soft and sticky and easy to remove. Do that first. Get the nozzle nice and clean, relatively speaking. Then up the temp and set your clearance. If there's one thing that ensures a successful print more than anything else, it's getting the base set right.

>> No.1534061
File: 1.96 MB, 4032x3024, CA3D3536-A30A-45DB-B969-F273ACE5E344.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Please help! My Bowden tube got clogged and the PLA being broken from whee it feeds into tube is culprit! I was doing my first ever print and I paused and then when I resumed later, it never extruded again. Removing the Bowden tube on the feeder (not nozzle) end revealed that the PLA was snapped just beyond the feed, which explained why no line would feed beyond the Gear insert thing.
I cannot pull the PLA out but I haven’t removed the nozzle end of the tube yet either.

>> No.1534063
File: 1.88 MB, 4032x3024, 238E5DC3-4F4F-49CD-AB30-A9C927DA2FA3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

My printer didn’t come with a spool holder, so I was printing one (first print), and I paused because I got tired and went to bed and nothing I did made the spool feed safely, resumed in the morning, but I noticed no extrusion. Here’s partially printed spool holder.

>> No.1534067

>Has anyone actually done this?
Yes, it's terrible. Warps worse than anything.

>> No.1534105
File: 20 KB, 688x630, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I changed the CR-10 default firmware to marlin1.1.8.
When a print finishes, the printer turns off the heaters as expected.
But when i turn the extruder heater back on (to start up a new print), the controller starts to heat the nozzle for a couple seconds and then stops with an error:
Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0
Error:Printer halted. kill() called!
Only resetting the printer will let me do anything after...

But it clearly heats the extruder as you can see on the pic. Is there a setting in marlin to fix this?

>> No.1534115

Is the nozzle clogged?
It sounds like you let the filament stay in the nozzle while it was cooling down, if you're going to pause a print you're almost always better off to either not or take the filament out of the extruder

>> No.1534119

I am printing with the nozzle right now, it is not clogged.

If i let the nozzle cool down to 50C or so and then turn it back on this error doesnt happen and it will just start a print normally. The problem is when i start a new print too quick and the nozzle is still hot.

>> No.1534120
File: 138 KB, 756x1008, 20190110_113717-756x1008.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

How the fuck to get this off.

>> No.1534124

push the black cap down, you ape

>> No.1534127
File: 31 KB, 720x960, 1534211899969.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Trying. Using two pairs of pliars and the damn thing still won't come off.

>> No.1534134

It has angled teeth, take the other end off and slide it in the direction its already going until it comes off the other end. That or snip off that end and accept a shorter bowden.

>> No.1534135


Might be a janky thermistor, this is the thermal runaway protection that was probably disabled in the stock firmware. You might want to fiddle with this section:

>// Parameters for all extruder heaters
>//#define THERMAL_RUNAWAY_PROTECTION_PERIOD 40 //in seconds
>//#define THERMAL_RUNAWAY_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS 4 // in degree Celsius

>> No.1534137

This is why I'm buying a DaVinci.

>> No.1534138

>the thermal runaway protection that was probably disabled in the stock firmware
Yep, definitely getting a DaVinci.

>> No.1534139

The other guy who replied isn’t me:
Yes I know I was very dumb, but how can I clear it? The tube is clogged for sure as i showed in the photo, but probably the nozzle too, how do I clear them both?

>> No.1534142
File: 51 KB, 720x958, 1537891539595.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Thanks. Bowden is plenty long enough for a clip off the end.

>> No.1534145

Heat up the head and load filament until the broken bit is out.

>> No.1534148
File: 139 KB, 756x1008, 20190110_115920-756x1008.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

This just happened to me [was fucking about with filament spool and it broke in the bowden.] load up the filament and let it purge [pic related]. I'm messing with the bowden nuts because its also fucked up.

>> No.1534149
File: 978 KB, 245x200, 1538106605216.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Hey look it's the davinci faggot again

>> No.1534150

Is it ok to sell 3D printed objects? Idk it feels unprofessional and easily copied.

>> No.1534156

At least I am not paying $5k for an Ultimaker or Makerbot

>> No.1534159
File: 800 KB, 1920x1080, 1546675264223.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1534161

Cheapest Makerbot is 1300 USD, cheapest Ultimaker is about 1000 EUR iirc. Sure, the expensive models are, well, expensive, but they have cheap ones too.

>> No.1534163

Did you make that specifically for me??
their cheap options are DIY kits though

>> No.1534164

did you design what you want to sell?

>> No.1534166


>> No.1534169


No, it has been going around /3dpg/ for at least a year, last thread had it too.

>> No.1534172

go for it then, the nerf dude seems to be doing alright

>> No.1534175

Why are DaVinci printers so hated?

>> No.1534177

Thanks. Where does he sell? Ebay? Etsy? Own website? Does he finish the printed parts with smoothing/painting?

>> No.1534181

I had this problem with Pronterface I don't get it with OctoPrint.

>> No.1534183

They run on the same business model as inkjet printers, they use proprietary filament that they overcharge for, the models have like a 3 year sale life before they're considered obsolete, and each model has it's own specific filament you have to buy just for that model, and theres no 3rd party support, IIRC doing any maintenance yourself, including printing an upgrade peice completely voids your warranty, and you have to use their proprietary slicer software
They arent bad for obsessive parents trying to get their kid into super nerdy smart guy type shit early on so they can get into a "good" college, but are arguably the worst printers on the market for proper hobbyists

>> No.1534186

Pretty much what >>1534145 said
Just heat your head up to temp, and force your machine to extrude until it comes out
If it doesnt you can try to stack your nozzle in acetone to weaken the plastic and then take a brass brush to it, I've never had to try that but I've read it works if you can't get a replacement nozzle

>> No.1534187

Replied to the wrong person lol

>> No.1534188

They stopped doing all of this for their pro model at least, you can use 3rd party filament and slicer now. Still if you are a complete noob like I was you wouldn't care about any of this. The Junior models still probably only take proprietary filament but they're for fucking kids.
Kek mine did last exactly 3 years, bought it in 2015, it died in 2018.
If they hadn't ditched that HP-tier business model yes I would have chosen another printer but they have and I am used to using DaVincis and I really just want to get an overdue project finished. Don't have time to learn and tinker with a Chinese brand. The ONLY reason why I considered the Creality is because of it's 500mm build volume but
>the thermal runaway protection that was probably disabled in the stock firmware
So DaVinci it is...

>> No.1534189

Check the archives nerfanon has talked about his business in detail a couple of times
He has an etsy, and a storeenvy I believe, he has a couple of options he sells individual parts, unassembled kits, and completed kits, he does all the trimming and smoothing for the completed kits
I have no idea what his pricing structure is but he made like 50k last year just from the nerf stuff

>> No.1534197

I looked at Etsy and I couldn't really see what category to put mechanical stuff in.
>he has a couple of options he sells individual parts, unassembled kits, and completed kits, he does all the trimming and smoothing for the completed kits
Oh wow, inspiration.
>he made like 50k last year just from the nerf stuff
Hory shet.

>> No.1534218

You can restore the thermal runaway with a YouTube tutorial, a Counterfeit arduino, and 20 minutes. Then you'll have a safe printer that hasn't been intentionally crippled by its manufacturer.

>> No.1534252
File: 558 KB, 2048x1536, 49766470_371739916974736_8202648474567573504_o[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>>he made like 50k last year just from the nerf stuff
$188k in revenue last year, $85k after expenses.
expecting to get completely raped in taxes in a few months so $50k will probably end up being my actual profit for the tax year. That will change in this coming year as I'm going to start seeing residuals and royalties from licensing deals.

I'm really undercharging for print hours because I have to print everything fast even though I have 7 printers (though one is under repair). The bulk of what I am selling is hardware sets, basic machining, design, tech support, and assembly.

>> No.1534262

>188k in revenue
Anon what the fuck
Like seriously holy shit how

>> No.1534263

That is a very pretty bottom layer, not gonna lie.

>> No.1534264

DaVinci printers were shilled harder than ender 3 nowadays.

>> No.1534277


Like >>1534218 said, thermal runaway protection is a non-issue on most DIY printers as you can easily enable it (along with other features) when you flash a stock version of Marlin. DaVincis on the other hand, at least the first ones, used this weird proprietary version of Repetier that couldn't be updated or flashed with something normal. Which model were you considering btw?

>> No.1534288
File: 571 KB, 2048x1536, 49759075_371739980308063_4447160145033560064_o[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>Anon what the fuck
>Like seriously holy shit how
I sold 800 of these
400 hardware sets
and then add 2,000 something accessories and replacement part sales

And I spend 40 to 50 hours a week producing them while making most of the hardware components in a shed in my backyard.

>> No.1534302

How did you advertise? Does Etsy do it for you or did you have to make contact with hobbyists yourself? I hope this is not just another word of mouth/connections thing that got big. Well done though, you've done amazing. Get an offshore bank account.

>> No.1534304

I went into the wrong business, theres no where near that much money in mushrooms
I had no idea the demand for custom nerf was that large, is there a particular niche left to fill or would any competition cut into your margins?

>> No.1534306

nerf kids are BIG spenders

>> No.1534307

is it PLA or ABS?
The 1.0 Pro. It's red and black.

>> No.1534310

You're selling the wrong mushrooms lol.

>> No.1534312

You may as well start injection moulding the parts at this point, you have the capital and it will be dirt cheap and fast compared to 3D printing after the initial investment.

>> No.1534315

Invent a fungus based printable plastic and make nerfanon your bitch.

Here we go again....
Like that wasnt suggested a billion times and explained a billion times why it is not worth.

>> No.1534328
File: 152 KB, 1466x682, 49026500_366438404171554_2434322149805129728_o[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>How did you advertise?
Youtube reviews and word-of-mouth mostly.
>Does Etsy do it for you
Presence in search results is a third of my sales volume. I don't do any paid/pushed marketing on Etsy itself.
> I hope this is not just another word of mouth/connections thing that got big.
I've been in the hobby over 10 years so my name has some weight to it from that. But my product is serving a largely ignored niche within the hobby. I'm also offering features and performance that the few that I do compete with don't or can't offer.
>is there a particular niche left to fill
There are different power sources for shooting darts. The already widely-served area is in batter-powered flywheel blasters. Everybody is producing those.

Spring-plunger designs were being neglected and those are what I was most familiar with already so that's what I'm selling.

The most neglected segment are the low-pressure compressed air blasters. These were pretty commonly sold commercially until a few years ago and this segment of the hobby is almost completely dead. There's a niche for you.
>or would any competition cut into your margins?
I have 4 to 5 week lead times on blaster orders because I'm doing everything myself with no employees. There are a few other individuals in the hobby producing and selling these, but they do require more tools and time to make than most people are willing to invest in. So nobody has tried to produce them in anywhere near the same quantity as me. I'm also offering way more customization than they are because it's my design and changing it is easy for me.

The licensing deals underway already are going to present some competition, but those won't be as customized because they're be in much larger production quantity. And most of those sales will be in countries where I'm not able to sell as many because the shipping and customs issues price me out of those markets for the most part anyways.
They're PLA except for the coupler.

>> No.1534333
File: 75 KB, 720x960, 48388698_359819664833428_2909102879975407616_n[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>You may as well start injection moulding the parts at this point
I don't have tens of thousands of open orders. Nor do I have a small business loan that would be able to pay for $40k in mold machining.

And say I did. Now I need a warehouse to store all the part shipments and a ton of employees I also don't have money for. Financial risk is a staircase that you walk up slowly and carefully. I'm not even really interested in growing my business any faster than I already have.

Even the large company that I licensed the design to is going to be producing them via printing. Because they don't want to take such a huge financial risk on a market segment they don't know the long-term demand of. My sales volume has been quadruple what I anticipated when I made the first dozen or so. But even then it's not like I'm swimming in a vault full of cash yet.

>> No.1534335

>nerf kids
Most of the spenders in the hobby are over the age of 20. Frankly children (or rather their parents) make the worst customers imaginable because they don't know a damn thing about the product they're spending money on, and that leads them to having unreasonable expectations.

>> No.1534341
File: 107 KB, 1080x1112, IMG_20190110_154724.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1534353

Just use the latest appimage from the cura website on ubuntu

>> No.1534366

I'm a mushroom farmer not a chemical engineer, but boy howdy is that a thought
Is it dead because no one uses that style anymore or is it dead because the 3rd party support switched their tooling because the retail market was saturated?

>> No.1534375

>Is it dead because no one uses that style anymore or is it dead because the 3rd party support switched their tooling because the retail market was saturated?
It's dead because I would assume the manufactured ones had a high rate of returns/leaks. That and the flywheel blasters are probably much cheaper to manufacture.

On the hobby side they're only neglected because There's always been very few people developing them. Making low-pressure valves that work involves a fair amount of engineering and machining. I tinkered with them before I had any familiarity with 3d printing.

>> No.1534384

Thanks for your advice.
I discovered the issue because the gear that feeds my filament stopped doing so, I can’t “push the filament through” or pull it out of the tube, and as a result it won’t feed into the already full fed tube. So far Ive made no progress removing it and getting my feeder to feed with the spin of the gear. When I attempt to remove the nozzle end of the Bowden tube, so far I can’t wiyhout fear of breaking the mechanism. Can I heat the nozzle and manually push the filament into it and it moltens at one end? Should I just unscrew the nozzle assembly?

>> No.1534397

>The 1.0 Pro. It's red and black.

Ok, that model appears to be actually decent, unlike everything else they've come out with. It's *almost* like a normal printer, with some "buts":
- You can load any filament (but no normal spool will fit in the small cartridge bay)
- You can use any slicer (but the gcode has to go through their proprietary XYZware)
- It has auto bed levelling (but it's not real bed levelling, more of a step-by-step wizard for the old "paper method")

At 300$ you're getting more or less the same features as an Ender 3, but with an enclosed build volume, (i assume) a rigid motion platform, but also a locked-down firmware.

>> No.1534401

Thank you, I feel vindicated now.

>> No.1534474

Making good molds for a a bunch of large parts like this would easily run into the low hundreds of thousands up front. You can try it y ourself on those instant quote sites. I bet it'll be like 30-40k per mold for a piece or two

>> No.1534487

How did you make it purge? Is there an option. I tried doing a print to do this, but I can’t get it to feed since the tube is blocked by the broken filament inside it, and that filament doesn’t want to move in any direction.

>> No.1534490

>$188k in revenue last year, $85k
what the hell did you expense $103k on? Unless you bought like 40 new printers I can't see how you spent that much on expenses

>> No.1534521

You're making it seem like your only options are DaVinci OR cheap chinese garbage OR $5000 printers. I can't believe you're this dense, seriously.

>> No.1534525
File: 19 KB, 400x400, Magstrike.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>low-pressure compressed air
I'm not following, you mean the ones you pump up like pic related, or something else?

>> No.1534527

Do you have a video of these firing?
How's the range compared to regular nerf.
You sure post them a lot.

>> No.1534529

Got this working following the advice given in this thread:

>> No.1534536

Sorry, i meant kids as in manchildren

>> No.1534540
File: 1.78 MB, 302x280, 99268706.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Does cura have a setting raise the print head when the print is finished?

>> No.1534541

add end g-code

>> No.1534561

Everything else seems to have a setting.

>> No.1534572

These are beautiful man, thanks for showing me such a cool example of what can be done in 3d printing and some ingenuity.

>> No.1534694
File: 502 KB, 1728x1296, 43443888_320715835410478_4447808736634863616_o[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>what the hell did you expense $103k on?
8,000 feet of threaded rod, 50,000 hex nuts, 30,000 screws, 8,000 compression springs, 1,500 extension springs, polycarbonate tubing, clear PVC, 16,200 aluminum straps with drilled holes, tools, filament, replacement printer parts, fixtures, jigs, shipping supplies, bubble wrap, ziploc bags. And a bunch of other stuff.

Making money requires spending money. You are always going to have expenses.
>Unless you bought like 40 new printers
I bought four in the past year.
>you mean the ones you pump up like pic related
>Do you have a video of these firing?
There are a ton on youtube. If you just want to see firing try this one.
>How's the range compared to regular nerf.
These shoot 100 to 120 feet depending on which of the four springs you install, the barrel length, and which of the two ramrods you use. So you can dial it up or down depending on how/where you want to use it.
Under Preferences > Machine Settings
Scroll over to the End GCode

You can add a G28 on a new line which is home all the axes, or do a G1 to an X Y and Z location.
It's a lucrative market segment.
You're Welcome. Have a snake.

>> No.1534706
File: 1.39 MB, 1899x1662, file.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I printed a sieve.

>> No.1534710

that's not really the hard part, its everything else

>> No.1534720

Looks like giant fleshlight to mie.

>> No.1534728

the sieve doesn't look printed

>> No.1534758

You spent too much time in /3dpg/

Well. You are correct.

>> No.1534798

What are you planning on straining, anon?

>> No.1534804

Yeah your filament degenerated to shit inside the nozzle

>> No.1534806

Dont know.
I just had the idea to print on a steel mesh in order to embed it in the print.

It would be nice to put steel mesh in ever other layer or so to strengthen the structure, but prints are already stronger in the XY direction than the Z so theres no point.

>> No.1534857
File: 566 KB, 2037x1263, le_mug.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I need your help, /diy. I have access to clay printer at my uni, printed and fired few test pieces recently. Now I want to print simple mug, but I need help with slicer settings to print pic related mug (fig 1). To achieve best surface, I need to use Vase mode in Cura, so nozzle is giving continuous clay noodle. Models must be solid to be sliced right in vase mode (fig 2), but I cant set up Cura to print shut mug`s bottom without printing bottom of handle piece (fig 3). How can I do this? Is there some g-code editors in which i can simply select handlepiece`s bottom layers and delite it?

>> No.1534873

A workaround might be to Print the bottom in regular mode and add the rest in vase mode. Either manually or with some manual g-code edditing.
Say hi to Walter.

>> No.1534881

What if you make a hole on the bottom just one layer deep? Could it work?

>> No.1534887
File: 960 KB, 2954x2216, ov2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Hey guys long term /diy/ poster, but first time in this general.
Have recently purchased a 3D printer and am messing about with it. It seems to have decent performance out of the box, and I was astonished by the quality of the first print. I am printing an enclosure for an electronics project now, however I have run into some issues.
(Yes I have read the simplify3d support, it doesn't mention anything about this problem)

My printer seems to have relatively bad performance in bridging, namely a very thin stringy bridging (see the picture). I think this could probably be improved, but I was wondering if people have already had this problem and know a way to solve it. I tried messing a bit with printing speed (80% and 60%) and extrusion rates (up 10%) but none seemed to really have any impact.

I would prefer to fix this before printing the actual enclosure (what you see here is the lid) because it has more critical parts where bridging is important.

>Make & Model
Creality CR-10
>Filament type
PLA that comes with the printer
>Bed & Extruder temps
60 degr, 200 degr
>Print speed
100%, i think that is 600mm/s in Cura
>Extra info
3D software: solidworks
Slicer: Cura
In Cura I selected 30% infill with 0.2mm layer height, build plate adhesion with for the rest 'recommended' settings for the CR10.

Note that on the left side of the picture, that is support material thus irrelevant. What is mostly interesting is the fill that is going on top (that it is so thin) and the stuff marked in green.

Thanks in advance, since I am kind of at a loss.

>> No.1534888
File: 104 KB, 1232x927, le_clay_fail.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Like, slice "real" mug in normal mode, copy bottom part`s g-code and replace "vase-mode" mug`s bottom g-code with it? Looks simple enough, Ill try that, thanks anon. Any other ideas as backup if this didnt work out? Also, you have confused me with someone else, who on earth is Walter?

>> No.1534892

As a scale reference, those holes are 3mm holes (with a taper to the top for a countersunk m3 bolt)

>> No.1534893


Increase the cooling fan speed, the extruded material needs to cool as rapidly as possible for bridging to work right. Also calibrate your extruder, that brim looks underextruded to me - the individual lines aren't supposed to have gaps between them. Look for the ol' Triffid's guide

>> No.1534900

>Increase the cooling fan speed
Cooling fan is already at 100% by default (except for the first layer, which I am pretty sure is to make sure it binds well with the bed)
>Also calibrate your extruder, that brim looks underextruded to me - the individual lines aren't supposed to have gaps between them. Look for the ol' Triffid's guide
Yes I was thinking it was underextruding as well. I wasn't aware of the guide, I will try that. Thanks a lot!

>> No.1534902

Are there any decent dual-extruder models around for under $500?

>> No.1534949

Are there any decent dual extruder models at all?
I havent looked very deeply into them but it really seems like it just be an annoyance on a FDM printer

>> No.1534950

After ruining more than a few prints while trying to remove supports, I just wanna be able to use water-soluble filament for supports

>> No.1534966

about this, is there a secret to removing them? I have found that it is easy to also peel the bottom layer of whatever the supports support, together with the supports.

>> No.1535102

What happens when your filament dries out?
I finally got my printer put back together after about 2 months of down time, and now it wont extrude
The hot end is hot and the Bowden will push the filament but it wont melt and come through the nozzle

>> No.1535111
File: 1.98 MB, 3120x4160, IMG_20190112_031743.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

SW armour anon here. Ive been slacking the last month but now decided to continue. Problem is, my printer is limited to 200x200x200mm and that simply doesnt cut it for big pieces like chest armour. So what printers are out there with bigger printbeds with reasonable prices?

>> No.1535114

how long did you leave it unsealed? i know about filament taking up water and spitting out bubbly stuff on the other end but completely dried up?

>> No.1535116

Its been sitting in a desk drawer since I took the printer apart, so about 2 months of exposure since I bought the roll
I cant think of any other reason it wont extrude, theres no clogs or bends in the hotend

>> No.1535122

you sure about the no clogs? that stuff wont dry out that fast. have you tried a different roll of filament? have you checked just the nozzle itself, thats the part on my printer that usually acts up every month or so and forces me to disassamble and dunk it in acetone

>> No.1535132

I haven't taken the whole block off to check the heatsink, but the 0.4 nozzle was clear and the brand new 0.5 i put on was clear
I only have the one roll right now

>> No.1535138

well, then look at it from this perspective. if your filament is indeed unusable now, you have to buy new one anyway. and if the new one still doesnt work, you know the old filament was fine and the problem lies somewhere else

>> No.1535196

I tried welding ABS parts together with my nail polish remover but it didn't work, is it because it's not concentrated enough?

>> No.1535210
File: 75 KB, 549x584, E3D-Bowden-Connector.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Nothing. You've got some other problem, especially if it's a roll of PLA.

Double check that your bowden didn't come loose from the heat break or something.

>> No.1535228

Probably. You can get 90% at Walmart in the beauty dept. You can also get a giant can of it at Lowe's or Home Depot.

>> No.1535238
File: 1.81 MB, 4032x3024, dnd prints.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I am him. Resin being the optimal method doesnt mean FDM is bad. Just requires more work.
All this was on my MP2.

>> No.1535287

>Local importer offers printer for 675 EUR
>Aliexpress has it for sale for 430 EUR including shipping
>Import fees are 90 EUR if I don't manage to circumvent them
Is there any reason I shouldn't be importing these printers?There's about 100-150 euro (20-25%) meat on the table.

>> No.1535291

Better cooling + Increased horizontal & vertical separation (proportionate to layer height with some slicers) and supports just pop off. Tweaking and tuning is key.

>> No.1535299


The small chance of the package being lost and the part where the local shop might offer a warranty. For 150 euro it's worth importing, if those are really the customs fees

>> No.1535338

Whats the fastest E-Move in a printer?
I'd guess retracts, pls correct if wrong.
What retractionspeed (or other fastest E-speed) do you use?

>> No.1535348

I got mine from aliexpress, didnt pay any import tax/fees
You can easily get lucky.

>> No.1535350

Coming back to this, I have found the issue. It seems I had accidentally hit the control wheel, and when in the info screen that apparently adjusts the feed rate (which is shown in tiny text in the cluttered display). After setting this back it seems to be working great!

>> No.1535371

How about importing and reselling?

If you use the correct warehouse in Aliexpres don't pay any import fees in the Schengen zone.

>> No.1535373

It could also be ethyl acetate based nail polish remover instead of an acetone based one.

Just get actual acetone from a hardware store.

>> No.1535378
File: 3.16 MB, 4000x2000, IMG_20190111_224704.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

So my Ender 3 came in yesterday and I put it together last night. I noticed that the rollers on the bed felt like there were flat spots on them when manually moving it but after running my finger across them I didn't feel anything. I googled the issue and found a reddit thread suggesting to loosen the rollers. This helped but im having trouble adjusting it to make it completely smooth and not have any wobble. Is there any trick to adjusting this?

Also are there any other things I should check before trying my first print?

>> No.1535379

Only worth it in bulk, that profit margin is still too low.

>> No.1535380

maybe the rollers aren't completely round?

>> No.1535388

Try doing some actual prints to see if this is substantively affecting your models. I'd reccomend the calibration cube on thingiverse, as it will let you see what's going on with each axis individually.

>> No.1535389

Is there any ‘good’ to using springs under my print bed (requires constantly releveling) or can a double washer lock going to allow me to avoid recalibration?
New to printing, I’ve been using PLA pretty well, but I think I’ve got “salmon skin.” My PETG is almost imposssible to make stick and even when it does, it un sticks mid print (the whole print). I’ve followed PETG guides and they vary wildly (some say 245 degrees c some say 210). I hear my ceramic/glass bed to 70c-90c on these attempts, but I can’t finish one single print in pet g.
Any ideas? I’ve tried masking tape (worked for a while till whole print suddenly unstuck), hairspray, a combination of these, and at one pint I tried taping my print down mid print to force it in place. I want to use petg but it seems like a very difficult filiment to get working, any advice?

>> No.1535391

What if I don't need to pay import fees? That's 245 euros per printer worth of possible profit.

>> No.1535393
File: 1.84 MB, 3024x3024, FC53FB4C-CFA7-4ECC-93EB-ABA280547347.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

For reference this is petg starting. It always does a random line and I always have to catch it because it sticks to nozzle, if I succeed pulling the initial stick filament off, it gets a little farther than this before the main print spontaneously stops sticking.

>> No.1535396

>If you use the correct warehouse in Aliexpres don't pay any import fees in the Schengen zone.
Got it shipped from China, not within the Schengen zone. It seems they ship the printer first to germany, and then to other countries.

>> No.1535407

Maybe? it's just that most product margins are over 50%. Remember shit will eat into your profits when you are running a business.

>> No.1535413

tune your eccentric rollers and check squareness again and again.

>> No.1535439
File: 121 KB, 640x640, 20-real-wood-powder-1-75mm-wood-filament-3d-printer-wood-pla-filament-impressora-3d-filamento.jpg_640x640[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

What kind of glue should I use for woodfill PLA? Wood glue? Or just regular super glue? I want to print a deer head and a plaque to mount it on but the deer head model I found comes in many parts, but the end result is nice and big. This might be my first model that I'm gunna print that I want to look super good; I'm going to donate it to a raffle that's going to a coworker who was diagnosed with cancer last month.

>> No.1535441

Good supports are a balance between printing temp and perfect bed leveling. However, no support material is always going to be 100% perfect, so it's best practice to avoid needing them at all, or using as little as possible.

>> No.1535444
File: 260 KB, 1317x585, Untitled-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Filament NEEDS to be dry in order to print. Moisture in the filament causes tons of problems. It sounds like your temps are way too low or your nozzle is plugged. You can buy super tiny drill bits to help clean your nozzle for cheap. I usually just use a strand of wire though.

>> No.1535448

Unless the bottle says "pure acetone" then it's not acetone, which is what you need. Acetone also is used as a paint thinner, which you can buy for way cheaper than "nail polish remover".
Good job anon, post some prints now
Make sure your nozzle is close enough to your bed using the paper test. And try using a glue stick, adding three layers in different directions for each application (let the glue dry between applications). It's what I use on my heated glass bed and I've never had issues with adhesion.

>> No.1535449

Acupuncture needles are great to clean up nozzles.
Chinks even sell them as "nozzle cleaning needles" on Ali.

>> No.1535451

Do you guys have any experience with the Anet A8? It's cheaper than the Ender 3, and still has decent reviews. I'm thinking about getting one as my first printer

>> No.1535455

>It's cheaper than the Ender 3

Because it's a fucking mess of exposed wires and made out of plastic. The ender 3 is in a completely different class.

>> No.1535459

The Anet is the quintessential chinkshit prusa clone. That means it's basically a well-packaged printer kit that you have to assemble and tune yourself. The Ender 3 is marginally more expensive, but has a few years more development behind it and comes int wo segments that bolt together and should work right out of the box (emphasis on should).
Both are equally good value: the Anet is a good learning experience, the Ender is undoubtably the best out-of-the-box printer at that pricepoint right now. Do you want to print tomorrow? Get the Ender. Do you want to print eventually and learn a lot? Get an Anet. Also consider the A6, which should be a bit larger iirc, and shop around for other i3 clones.

>> No.1535460

Do you guys sketch out your designs before preparing them on CAD and printing? I bought some industrial design marker pens Thursday and I've been practicing. So far I'm shit.

>> No.1535461

No because all of my designs are geometric and purposeful, I don't need any of that design nonsense.
>So far I'm shit.
You always will be, embrace the suck. My teacher for industrial design could draw stuff in amazing ways, and he'd say it sucked, even at his level - you'll always criticize yourself the harshest. Keep practising and you'll suck less, maybe you'll even get compliments eventually.

>> No.1535463


Thanks, for the advice! I don't mind the exposed wires and plastic as long as it can do a decent print, also it couldn't hurt to learn about the machine since I'm a complete beginner when it comes to 3d printing. So I think I'll go for the Anet - I'll update if it turns out to be crap

>> No.1535469

So are mine, but sketching it first helps prevent errors in the final CAD drawing. Plus it looks nice.

>> No.1535471

Slight resistance on the paper, also there are some files on thingverse you can use to level your bed and watch cheps video on leveling beds.

>> No.1535481

>Do you guys sketch out your designs before preparing them on CAD and printing?
I do the opposite. I tend to build an ugly version in CAD, do a test print, then print out a paper copy of the design after I know it works. I doodle on the paper copy to try and unify the shape and design aesthetic of it, then come back to the CAD and iron away the ugliness.

>> No.1535482

Just use super glue. The "wood" content of those filaments is only just enough to make them compatible with wood stain and urethane, but not enough for wood glue to actually do much.

>> No.1535485

>all of my designs are geometric and purposeful
>I don't need design nonsense
That's hilarious. Really. Particularly because you mentioned having an Industrial Design teacher. I'm surprised that mentality hasn't been suppressed yet, it will cause problems down the line unless you're making the absolute simplest possible designs

>> No.1535496
File: 648 KB, 1331x748, 20190112_125406.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Yes. In a preschooler kind of way.

>> No.1535519

This is 99% of my design flow right here.

>> No.1535532

oh so this is how wood 3D printing works

>> No.1535545

>PVC filament
>hotend had injector that sprays almost imperceptible amount of solvent directly ahead of the extruded filament
>layer adhesion intensifies
Any reason this wouldn't work other than the fact I don't see anyone making PVC filament
I typically work with PVC to the exclusion of most materials

>> No.1535546

>hotend has*

>> No.1535575

What advantage does PVC filament have over ABS/PLA, the addition of the solvent nozzle just adds a bunch of extra sensors, wires, tubes, and coding that will just get in the way
Can you even make PVC filament? I feel like the melting point would be too low

>> No.1535580

>What advantage does PVC filament have over ABS/PLA,
The advantage would be the ability to solvent weld the layers. If I'm right you'd get ridiculous layer adhesion, but the spray would have to be incredibly fine and precisely controlled.

>> No.1535588

>the fact I don't see anyone making PVC filament

>> No.1535592


Found some shit
Apparently printed PVC is tough as bricks, even without solvent welding the layers. Gasses do represent a hazard but venting an enclosure out a window is not difficult. It's $5 in ducting and fans.

>> No.1535594

>melting polyvinylchloride

>> No.1535595

Yes and

>> No.1535596

yep blow it in your neighbour's yard, that's the American way.

>> No.1535598

>The advantage would be the ability to solvent weld the layers.
Wouldn't that be possible with ABS too?

>> No.1535603

According to the link I posted I don't think you'd even need to, it says that the prints they tested were super strong and had abnormally high layer adhesion.

>> No.1535608

I've made 3 prints and my printer stopped printing. It's a MP mini delta. It all of the sudden just stopped. The nozzle got goopy Midway through a print and I removed the blob. Now when I try to print, the filament pops as the extruder travels. Pops as in jerks a tiny bit every second or so, as if it's jammed and can't reach the nozzle
What do

>> No.1535688

Is that unironic weed whacker line

>> No.1535690
File: 4 KB, 103x131, 1546710574771.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

How long will it take for a preassembled Prusa i3 to ship after ordering?

>> No.1535692
File: 538 KB, 1800x1800, collage.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

collage for next thread

>> No.1535693

Don't do this it makes mustard gas

>> No.1535696

tbqf we're already dealing with a device continuously spraying aerosolized solvents for 8 hours at a time. deadass ventilation is a prereq.

>> No.1535698

No, these fumes will actually kill you if you breathe them.

>> No.1535700

The solvent will do the same shit dude, and even if I wasn't using PVC or a theoretical solvent sprayer I would have already been using a fully sealed HEPA filtered enclosure that vents out of a window simply because it'd be fun to build.

>> No.1535702

You are going to kill yourself. HEPA is for dust particulate only.

>> No.1535704

Look me in the face and tell me you think I'm too retarded to attach dryer vent hose to a board in the window and a blower motor and the other end to the enclosure.

>> No.1535706

What city do I check the obituaries for?

>> No.1535712

Is OSHA hiring

>> No.1535721
File: 8 KB, 449x165, Friendly neighborhood OSHA man.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>> No.1535722

>buying preassembled
Nigga that's half the fun

>> No.1535725

How about you look at the product page, where this is clearly stated?

>> No.1535733

The quoted time is 12 hours to assemble and it saves you only $250, so unless you make under $20.83 an hour, it's a better use of your time to buy it prebuilt.

>> No.1535740

You're in the wrong hobby if you weigh the time assembling something vs. how much you save by buying it prebuilt.

>> No.1535743

You don't also assemble your own drill press, do you?

>> No.1535764
File: 12 KB, 239x211, 1540791072718.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1535772

>so unless you make under $20.83 an hour, it's a better use of your time to buy it prebuilt.
because a person works 24h a day and hobbies don't exist

>> No.1535800


>> No.1535807

The goal is to use the 3D printer to make things, not be some Chinese sweatshop worker.

>> No.1535809

Tinkerer. The term is tinkerer. The idea of knowing deep in my gut exactly how every single part is fastened to one another is attractive to me.

>> No.1535811

I want to tinker on things that matter, not get mired in pointless manual labor.

>> No.1535813
File: 181 KB, 756x972, Lex Luthor disapproves.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Yeah, because when I work on my car instead of giving it to a shop, it's definitely the same thing as being an assembly line worker or some minimum-wage guy working at a summer job. Or when I cook at home instead of going out to eat, it's equivalent to being a burger flipper at a fast food place.

Just admit that you have more money than time instead of making up bullshit reasons.

>> No.1535814

How does anyone use the creality ender 3 without a bed leveling sensor? The damned bed it comes with gets out of level each time you pop a print off of it. Seriously frustrating. I'm tempted to let the printer just sit until my bltouch shows up.

>> No.1535825

>why make it when you can pay someone else to
why are you on this board, seriously
this board is literally about making stuff

>> No.1535829

This is why each new generation is worse at /diy/ related stuff, and we're slowly becoming dumber as a society.

>> No.1535830

So when your printer breaks, what do you do?

>> No.1535840

I'm trying to understand your logic here. If you work 40 hours a week (standard working hours in USA), and make $20 an hour and even it out over total hours in a week (168), then you're making on average $4.76 an hour. If you're trying to be smart and save money and have people do shit for you, then you'd need to use $4.76 as a reference. So in order for you to save money by buying a prebuilt, which costs $20.83 an hour, you would have to be making $87.48/h, not $20.83/h.

>> No.1535915

You can use manual mesh bed leveling, i also have not had such experiences with mine, I can easily get a dozen or more prints done between leveling.

>> No.1535933

Saw this in a different thread, relevant


>> No.1535964

I went to the cinema once. Not only didn't I get my hourly wage during that time, no, I actually payed money for it.
How could that happen

>> No.1535968

Just doodle some shit with a pencil. You don't need to bring industrial drawing quality to the paper.
I usually do it when there are a lot of important dimensions to consider so I don't get lost.

>> No.1536014

Thanks once again.


>> No.1536154

>Just admit that you have more money than time instead of making up bullshit reasons.
But that's precisely the reason I cited. I just want to use my 3D printer for my projects.

I'm a mechanical engineer. I know how a fucking 3D printer works. Honestly this thing is built more like a toy compared to the machines I work with, but I'm getting it because it's cheap.

I could work overtime to afford the extra $250 more quickly than I could put it together myself.

>> No.1536163

>trusting preassembled printers to work right

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