/3DPG/

[Anonymous No.1509499]

Who needs infill edition:
Old:>>1501941

Need help with prints? Post:
>filament type, bed & extruder temp, print & fan speed, etc

>general info
https://www.3dhubs.com/what-is-3d-printing
https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base
Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker

>open source community
http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Machines
http://forums.reprap.org/
#RepRap @freenode

>buyfag buyers guide
https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide
Any cheap chinkshit kit

>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki(lots of useful stuff)

>why do my prints look like shit, visual troubleshooting
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

>how to calibrate
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints
https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer
http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide
http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/
[YouTube] RepRap 101: Setting your 3D printer's extrusion Part 1: E-steps (embed)

>where do I get files to print?
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://www.youmagine.com/
http://www.thingiverse.com/
https://www.myminifactory.com/

>what programs do you make your own files with
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing
http://www.freecadweb.org/
https://www.blender.org/
http://www.openscad.org/
https://www.onshape.com/
http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview

>what kind of filament do I want
Begin with a roll of known brand PLA before moving to more demanding materials.
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/28-material-guide
http://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare

>Hotends
e3d and its clones
>Extruder
BMG or E3D

>Make collage for the next thread
https://www.befunky.com/

[Anonymous No.1509502]

>>1509459

I wouldnt use resin printers for dioramas because you can get resin like figures from even a ender 3 of you are willing to tweak the slicer settings and wait a while. This vid explains.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qDW7g3JOqLA

[Anonymous No.1509506]

First for smaller pew pew

[Anonymous No.1509515]

What's something I can print for kids?
Work is running a donation thing for gifts for kids or some shit, and it's not like they pay me enough to just hand money out, so next best thing is to print cheap (for me to print) 3D models that are "cool" and "hip" for the kiddies. The only thing I can really think of are those low poly pokemon models, but do kids even like pokemon these days? Give me some ideas /3DPG/.

[Anonymous No.1509557]

>>1509515
fidget spinners
lego compatible unique pieces
nerf stuff
nintendo switch controller parts

[Anonymous No.1509559]

>>1509515
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3188739
for really young kids, or apparently kids with downs syndrome

[Anonymous No.1509560]

>>1509515
Some fortnite shit I dunno, kids these days

[Anonymous No.1509561]

>>1509515
my niece loves the flexirex

[Bepis Jr !!xkAqDWWriEy No.1509574]

>>1509515
>What's something I can print for kids?
legos
peace

[Anonymous No.1509665]

>>1509515
Print the obligatory 3D print showy offy parts shown below. Can't go wrong with that.
https://youtu.be/P1exO19Unh0

Also shit like their names or so

[Anonymous No.1509675]

>>1509561
>>1509574
>>1509665

The picture basically says all I want to say.
Otherwise, ask me if anything is unclear, the questions are:
>What plastic to use?
>Is one or the other better, should I look elsewhere for another piece entirely?
>Should I use superglue for this?

(Unnecessary stuff, feel free to read if time is there:)
This is one of my first posts on /diy/, excuse my new-ness.
I didn't see a thread for "fix small shit general", so I decided to come here, since I figured you lads would know a little about plastic.
Pic related is my broken digital piano (it's cheap, but it's from 1988, and I wanted to test out playing and maybe just have a little fun on it).
I think the idea can be derived from it very well, but what plastic should I use as patch?
Should I even use superglue? (I already used copious amounts to fix a 3 plastic standoff screw-threads in the chassis of the keyboard).

[Anonymous No.1509683]

>>1509515
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3239563 my kids seem to like these

[Anonymous No.1509702]

>>1509675
make new bar the keys attach to, make better keys, call it good for another 20 years.

[Anonymous No.1509703]

>>1509675
>>1509702
and you can start by making a 3d model of a key and the bar

[Anonymous No.1509706]

>>1509675

[Anonymous No.1509709]

>>1509702
>>1509703
I glued it with the sidewall of an old lego brick and a white piece of redit card.
It should work again now. the two keys are pretty stiff, but eh, it's just for messing around anyways.
Making a new model would be something I have never done, I would have to learn how to model, and if I decide to do that I would need a way to manufacture the keys too.
Also, this board can still be had, 400$ if you want it NOS but only 30$ if you want it used.
Sadly I live in Germany, so I can't get these products from the Americanos that have them.
But as stated, it should work to mess around with it a little, it's a low-quality keyboard anyways, so if I suddenly find that playing Keyboard has been my destiny all along I'd buy one with a proper spring mechanism, else I will just smile and have had fun with an old keyboard that my even older neighbor had laying around.
It's sad that such low durability stuff is produced, I wish there was some sort of obligation to produce things that last at least x years, or have people examine the build quality and then the price for each unit would still be doable, since the scale of production is forced higher.

>>1509706
I don't have that program. Isn't it like thousands of dollars to get? Sorry, but that isn't doable for me.

[Anonymous No.1509712]

What's a reliable brand abs.

Do you think that I could run ABS on a stock cr-10

[Anonymous No.1509713]

>>1509709
Do it faggot.

[Anonymous No.1509716]

>>1509713
Oh fug... okay, then I will have to learn 3D modeling.
I would be more interested in a modelling of a watch, though.
They keyboard is just not justifieable from the standpoint of actual value, the rest of it is cheap plastic as well.

[Anonymous No.1509731]

>>1509716
If you want to avoid the botnet, there are FOSS modeling programs.
Blender is good for working with the mesh and is an artists choice
OpenScad is good for parametric models and can be quick for simple stuff. programmers choice
FreeCAD I've seen recommended, haven't tried it

[Anonymous No.1509741]

>>1509716
Fusion 360 is way better than these poverty-tier programs, and free for hobbyists and businesses that make less than 100k/yr
>>1509731

[Anonymous No.1509746]

>>1509712
>What's a reliable brand abs.
Hatchbox or Pxmalion

[Anonymous No.1509752]

>>1509741
>poverty-tier
Do you have an actual reasonable arguement or just just the propaganda type labeling targeting emotion
>I better use this program or people will think I'm poor

>better
Better for who?
>To help keep our databases current, and to provide you with more relevant content, experiences and offerings, we combine your personal data, as described above, with information from public sources and other companies (such as our channel partners [resellers], business contact databases, and enrichment service providers), in accordance with applicable law.
>We work with one or more advertising networks, which are our Ad Partners, who use Cookies or other technologies to collect information in order to serve you ads and help us track results. Such information may include the websites you visit, the mobile apps you use, the preferences you may provide us as your application provider, your IP address, your device ID, and information about your browser.
>We store your personal data and content on our servers, and the servers of our service providers. Because we and our service providers maintain servers in global locations, your personal data may be transferred across national borders and stored outside of the United States.
>We also use Autodesk Analytics programs and third-party analytics tools, such as Google Analytics, to help us understand how you use our website and applications.
BOTNET
https://www.autodesk.com/company/legal-notices-trademarks/privacy-statement

[Anonymous No.1509754]

>>1509706
Why not Solidworks?
>>1509709
>paying for software

[Anonymous No.1509794]

Now that xmas is approaching, what are some underrated printable items to give as small gifts? For adults I mean. Pic related.

[Anonymous No.1509799]

Does anyone know any "natural ABS" meaning it has as few additives/pigments as possible. I have the priviledge to try chrome plate some models, but can't source the filament.

[Anonymous No.1509810]

>>1509794
Is that a fingerbox

[Anonymous No.1509823]

My drill kit finally arrived from china. Time to turn my 3d printer into a cnc machine for lately $5

[Anonymous No.1509826]

>>1509823
>cnc machine
No offence, it will be more likely be a carving machine with that motor. But should be a fun project for 5$.

[Anonymous No.1509828]

>>1509826
I want it for drawing pictures b on glass and making pcbs

[Anonymous No.1509890]

>>1509752
Just block it in the firewall, problem solved.

Use Solidworks like a normal person.

[Anonymous No.1509894]

>>1509752
whining about free cloud storage and the company keeping their file format conversion code server side seems pretty petty to me.

True you have to trust their security on it, but it's such a valuable service it's totally worth it. If it isn't, then why the fuck aren't you using solidworks + mastercam or something?

[Anonymous No.1509904]

Anyone printed this?

[Anonymous No.1509981]

>>1509904
What the fuck is that

[Anonymous No.1509993]

>>1509981
Semi-automatic pistol.

[Anonymous No.1510003]

>>1509904
>>1509993
Who's supposed to want that thing? Isn't it a total piece of shit?

[Anonymous No.1510015]

>>1510003
No, you're thinking of the Liberator.

I was asking if anyone has printed it, since it's apparently an untested model. If it's tested, it can be improved.

[Anonymous No.1510124]

>>1509890
>>1509894
>FOSS bad

[Anonymous No.1510152]

My creality cr-10 finally came. But it the filament holder thing is broken. Anything better I can print on the library 3d printer or something to replace?

[Anonymous No.1510153]

>>1510152
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2492903

[Anonymous No.1510200]

What can cause terrible overhangs only on one side of the benchy? Bad airflow? I don't want to upgrade to a 5015 fan, they're too loud.

[Anonymous No.1510201]

>>1510200
You're only cooling from one end, consider printing a shroud that can direct air from all sides or adding another fan.

[Anonymous No.1510202]

>>1510201
I'm using this one.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3092044

i'm gonna put like a glass of water underneath and turn on the part fan to see where the air goes

[Anonymous No.1510203]

>>1510200
I saw similar defects when trying to print small prints with >45degree overhangs. The heat from the bed and nozzle combined caused the plastic to slighly curl up and the next layer would deposit on to thin air. The side of the fan was ok, as it was cooled between layers. Reduce print/bed temp if possible, and print slower to allow it to cool enough. Or print with PETG, it is way better with overhangs tham PLA. I can print 62 degree angles while PLA already has trouble at around 50.

[Anonymous No.1510276]

>>1509894
>>1509890
Different anon here, solidworks is like $4000. Why would you reccomend he use that?

[Anonymous No.1510306]

I have a sharpie which makes an exactly 5mm wide line
If i attach the sharpie to the extruder head and in my slicer (3d simplify) set the extrusion width to 5mm and then print say a black 10x10cm rectangle, will the printer head move in such a way where none of the lines will overlap? (So the lines from the sharpie will have edges exactly aligned so there won't be any gaps between them, but they won't actually overlap)

Hopefully you understood what i mean.

[Anonymous No.1510314]

>>1510276
Solidworks is $0 on the pirate bay, like all useful software.

[Anonymous No.1510319]

>>1510306
Well, yes they will overlap perfectly, when you have your settings dialed in. That's how printer work? There is some overlapping with the shell and infill lines by default, but you can set this to zero.

[Anonymous No.1510381]

>>1510306

You'll need to set the nozzle width to 5mm. It will likely miss some of the corners because the toolhead has a round profile, but you can remedy that with a second pass at a different fill angle. You could also try concentric fill mode as it's more likely to work for your use case.

[Anonymous No.1510421]

>>1510381
How do i stop extrusion through? I want the nozzle to move and but since the fillament temperature will be 0 i don't want the extruder motor to do anything, to retract the printer actually has to move up on the z axis

[Anonymous No.1510424]

>>1510314
Gotcha. Why not just use onshape?

[Anonymous No.1510461]

>>1510421
>i don't want the extruder motor to do anything
Don't load filament
or set the extrusion percentage to 0%

[Anonymous No.1510466]

>>1510461
>Don't load filament
I don't want to unload filament every time i want to use it for drawing instead of printing

>or set the extrusion percentage to 0%
i tried but i can't find any such value there, the only thing there is extrusion multiplier and it is not possible to set it to 0

but, if i am not mistaken, then extrusion has to be specified in gcode right? so i could just run a simple regex to delet all extrusion commands

[Anonymous No.1510487]

>>1509799
all "natural" resns are going to have processing aids, antioxidants and the like right from the resin distributor. Those you should be able to plate over like any other resin. What is compounded into it at the filament manufacturer is anyone's guess and you should call to see what additives they use themselves and check compatibility. Special order some from them if you are that concerned. Most small shops would have no problem doing it provided the order is big enough or you pay enough

[Anonymous No.1510489]

>>1509499
Any info on 3D routers/engravers/milling machines? Wanna engrave guns and make accessories.

[Anonymous No.1510524]

hi, it looks like my printer skipped a layer, what might have caused that ?
There is a little warping on the bottom, it is the cause ?

[Anonymous No.1510558]

I'm
>>1510200

Turns out I'm a fucking idiot, I took out the part fan to lower the pipes, and I mounted it back rotated 90 degrees, so it was blowing straight into the rail instead of into the pipes.

[Anonymous No.1510563]

>>1509499
Since I can't find a 'Stupid Questions' thread here or on /O/:

Anyone install an autostart for a car? Wife wants one for her 2012 Elantra.

[Anonymous No.1510567]

>>1510524
I see all sorts of problems with that cube, try solving one at a time.
Your adhesion is clearly bad, add some gluestick if you're using glass bed.
For the skipped layer check for underextrusion or belt issues, retension the belts, check if the extruder motor is not stressed (maybe print a filament guide)
For the ghosting check for vibrations of the whole printer, maybe put a rubber mat under it.

[Anonymous No.1510575]

>>1510567
Thank you, I'm going to work on all of these points

[Anonymous No.1510585]

>>1510563
Srs. Thought this was another one

[Anonymous No.1510803]

What's the strength of acetone smoothed ABS vs. regular 3d printed ABS?

[Anonymous No.1510819]

>>1510803
Shitty compared to our lord and saviour PET.

[Anonymous No.1510877]

How much do you guys charge for print time? What’s a reasonable rate to put on top of the material costs?

[Anonymous No.1510878]

>>1510877
Unless I'm doing a huge batch, 5 EUR per hour. However, if you want to make money you shouldn't just do print work as the bigger printfarms are much more cost efficient. Instead, integrate it into a design process to make even more profit.

[Anonymous No.1510945]

All the chinese vendors list their lead screws as being 8mm diamater and with a 2mm lead but i cannot find any official metric specifications for that size lead screws.
The closest specifications for 8mm diameter and 2mm lead i can find is 5/16 inch diameter with 1/14 lead which does not translate to 8mm and 2mm but rather to 7.9375mm and 1.81429mm so are the chinese just lying and trying to pass off 5/16 inch rods as 8mm or what? i mean i don't really mind but come on at least mention the accurate size of the rod and the lead.
Now of course there is the official 8mm diameter and 1.5mm lead metric thread which i've seen stocked by some more legitimate vendors, European ones.
Look at this complete mess of a picture for example, the screw ain't even close to 8mm lead and what the fuck is a T8 screw? i can't find any info on it on google.

[Anonymous No.1510964]

Is there any <US$300 printers that you would recommend for a beginner? I'm thinking of getting my old man one for Christmas. He's pretty handy but I don't think he's ever 3D printed so I'd like to get something less expensive in case he doesn't like 3D printing.
Also, are the RepRap printers any good?

[Anonymous No.1510991]

>>1510964
https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers
Prusa i3 or Monoprice MP Select Mini

[Anonymous No.1510999]

>>1510964
You can get the Ender 3 stupidly cheap nowadays.
I recently got mine for 155€ on a flashsale.
You can dump the rest of the cash on tools and filament.

If you want a bigger one you can get the CR-10S.

If you want something decent get anything from prusa.

[Anonymous No.1511047]

>>1510945

it has 4 starts.

[Anonymous No.1511056]

>>1510964
MP select mini v2 is a nice beginner printer, 200 eurodollars on amazon and just werks.

[Anonymous No.1511066]

>>1510945

TR8x2 exists, it's just not very common with european manufacturers, they go with TR8x1.5 and TR10x2 instead. Some chinese sellers even have 8x1mm screws. The screw in the picture looks exactly like a TR8x2, not sure why you consider it a mess. If it lists the lead as 8mm then it should be a 4-start screw. I'd check if anyone offers screws with POM nuts, they're way less harsh and can work without lubrication. There are also anti-backlash variants, though backlash isn't much of an issue if you're using them on a printer's Z axis

[Anonymous No.1511087]

>>1511066
What about printed nuts perhaps?
Might need to be longer to get more thread surface but they ought to work, right?
Also you could easily integrate the thread into a printed design so that you don't even need a separate nut part.

[Anonymous No.1511099]

>>1511087

You can use printed nuts if you have a tap, otherwise you won't get a very smooth thread due to the layer lines. You can also print a tighter thread, heat the leadscrew and thread it in so it melts into shape. I wouldn't do any of that personally though, POM (acetal) nuts are only a few bucks a piece and the preferred material for the application:

https://www.robotdigg.com/product/961/POM-Nut-for-RobotDigg-Linear-Steppers

[Anonymous No.1511101]

>>1511099

By the way i've ordered stepper motors with integrated leadscrews from that store that cam with those nuts on. The screws are single-start and were packaged pretty well inside cardboard tubes to prevent bending during shipping.

[Anonymous No.1511276]

>>1510524
because it's a z-axis issue you might need to adjust the gantry bearings, what printer do you have?

[Anonymous No.1511310]

Guys, may I ask which 3D printer was used here?

http://archive.is/NeS7i

[Anonymous No.1511328]

>>1511310
Have to be something resin based; I don't think anything else could give you the resolution.

[Anonymous No.1511439]

>>1511276
Anet A6, bearings are really bad even with grease

[Anonymous No.1511732]

There's a MK2S at work which I've been vaguely tasked with fixing. Cleared a jam in it which made it start extruding again but now there's an issue with thermal runaway. What's the most likely culprit, thermistor, hotend, or something else? Is it worth it to try and diagnose or is the part(s) cheap enough that I can just throw it out and buy a whole new heater block/thermistor/nozzle/etc. assembly? Pic related isn't mine but is same error.

[Anonymous No.1511757]

>>1511310
>law enforcement officers approached a professor at Michigan State

If it's a police force and a state university, it's probably something way out of any of our reaches, like a super high resolution resin printer or even tissue printer

[Anonymous No.1511763]

>>1511732
Is everything plugged in properly?
doesn't that there thermal runaway mean that there is some sort of problem with the thermistor?

[Anonymous No.1511831]

>>1511732

Dicky thermistor connection, usually a bad crimp or the cable got pinched somewhere. It's no big deal and should be an easy fix.

[Anonymous No.1512179]

>>1511732
My mk2 had tons of issues when I first started printing ABS because it couldn't hold temp (cant remember if nozzle or bed) and would dip below the threshold and trigger the thermal runaway

I ended up running a program in the calibration menu called something like "PID tuning" or "PID calibration" and it asked what temp to calibrate at. I ran that at ABS temps and never had any issues since with ABS or PLA

If you can't even get it to preheat you probably need to check the connections, or replace cartridges

[Anonymous No.1512233]

>>1511732
Thermal runaway means it's heating at (almost) full capacity, yet the thermistor isn't registering a hot enough temperature. Most built-in protections either trip when it can't maintain X temperature for Y seconds, when the deviation from target temperature is too large, or when the heatup rate from a cold hotend is below Z degrees per second Triggering thermal runaway mostly boils down to one of the following (from least to most effort to fix):

>Heat is leaking away
Hotend may be touching something with good thermal conductivity, like a fan shroud. The heater is working all it can to heat the hot end, but the thermistor isn't registering enough because the thermal capacity of the hotend just got increased by whatever it's touching. Check your hotend if it's touching anything, clean the outside of the heater block and try again.

[Anonymous No.1512234]

>>1511732
>>1512233
>Thermal flow is too high
Squishing too much material with too high of a temperature differential through you nozzle is going to let your heater cartridge run at full PWM, and then your thermistor is going to register too low of a temperature again. Part of this is materials with high melt temps like ABS, but too high of a material flow will also cool the nozzle enough to the point where it'll trigger thermal runaway. I've had Ultimaker 2's with a 0.8mm nozzle, 0.6mm layer height and 80mm/s print speed yield several of these. Note that before the thermal runaway is caused, a printer with too much material flow will already have terrible layer adhesion because it is already melting filament at a subpar temperature, so you want to reduce that flow.
When you encounter this variant, you can run thermistor tuning (differs per board, it's M303 on a Duet) for the temperature you're trying to achieve, that should sort out the material issues. Then, try again and lower print speed on the machine itself to the point where the error doesn't occur anymore. Throw away that print because it's still shit (bad layer adhesion), calculate the material flow in mm^3/s and redo your slicing at 75 to 80% of that maximum material flow by adjusting layer height, nozzle size and print speed.

>Heater cartridge is broken
Speaks for itself, but heater cartridge may still be heating up - just not enough. It's also possible that some wires are loose, especially at the tail end of the cartridge itself (also applies to thermistor). Check wires, replace if needed and try again.

>Thermistor is broken
In which case the hotend just went way over target temperature, most printers are designed to shutdown within X seconds of not maintaining target temp in this case. Check wires, replace if needed, run thermistor tuning and try again.

[Anonymous No.1512260]

I have two pieces like in the picture.

And the bottom i need to connect the two piece to form a solid static joint. (so the result will be as if they were glued together)

Is this possible without glue? Is there some simple joint i can model to achieve this?

I can (doesn't have to be) even be only one way joint, where you can join them together but not take them apart-
You know, something where i just click them together like lego

[Anonymous No.1512292]

>>1512260
Sure; something like a dovetail joint comes to mind (but it totally depends on how the two pieces work into your design as a whole, and how you intend to print them).

[Anonymous No.1512360]

How can I edit the travel paths in a slicer program so that the walls of this hinge builds and connects with the arm bracket. When it builds it snaps off way too easy. And I know it should be stronger even though its size. Its just not connecting.

[Anonymous No.1512375]

>>1512360

Fix your model? If it's putting perimeters there then there's faces between the two walls.

[Anonymous No.1512488]

>>1512375
Well although I can go back and check the model that is not the sole reason for separate walls.
Using Ideamaker Slicer the image on the left>>1512360 created separate walls but when porting to Cura those walls disappeared as shown in the same exact model.

Is there a Slicer or a feature to edit the tool paths anyone else out there know of

[Anonymous No.1512498]

>>1512488
>but when porting to Cura those walls disappeared as shown in the same exact model.

That doesn't really mean the model doesn't have errors there, rather that Cura probably has some "thin intersecting wall detection" that works in some cases.

[Anonymous No.1512750]

>>1512488
>a feature to edit the tool paths
Never. This feature is much much harder to implement than it seems on the surface. And considering the userbase, it would be an absolute shitshow if anyone did release this feature

[Anonymous No.1512766]

>>1512750
>Option 1- walls are printed always to the outside edge of the model
>Option 2- walls are automatically generated

>Check 1 box

how hard was that?

[Anonymous No.1512850]

What's the brand with the highest print resolution under 300 bucks? even if the printing area is 5x5 cm doesn't matter as long as the resolution is high.
I need only for creating smooth surfaces that I can fill with UV resin.

[Anonymous No.1512875]

>>1511763
>>1511831
>>1512179
>>1512233
>>1512234
Will check on all that, thanks for the suggestions so far.

[Anonymous No.1512876]

>>1512766
>how hard was that?
Well, go fucking implement it then if it's so easy. Cura and Slic3r are both open source, go add those options in and feel free to give us the updated versions.

[Anonymous No.1512956]

So. My prints are spiraling. Three of these printed side by side. All as if they got twisted. Any ideas? (Lines should be straight.)

[Anonymous No.1512989]

>>1512956
Mechanical problem. Check everything.

[Anonymous No.1513104]

>>1512850
FDM is too inaccurate for that I'd say.
Your best bet:
Get an Ender3 pro and a 0,2mm nozzle and some high quality filament.
You could possibly smooth the surface afterwards with acetone or some heated tools.
Might also help to put the printer in heat controlled box

[Anonymous No.1513128]

>>1512956
Lmao wtf
Is that a delta or something?

[Anonymous No.1513130]

>>1512850
I'm currently developing a tiny printer with 120x120 print plate that will use high quality german linear components and an e3d hotend whose kit price will be around 200-300€. Tmc 2130 stepper drivers will be an option for around 30€ added price.

[Anonymous No.1513206]

>>1513130
Don't do it. The last thing the world needs is yet another FDM printer.
A 0,2 nozzle can be mounted on any other printer.
FDM just isn't the answer for precision parts...

How many people do you have in your team?
Who will manufacture this?
How much money do you have or do you want a kickstarter (lol)?
How do your distribution channels look like?

I also doubt that your claimed price point can be met for a "high precision printer" except in huge quantity. And please don't use 3D printed construction parts for the printer.
Precision manufacturing devices are a point where you want to avoid 3D prints for critical parts.

[Anonymous No.1513207]

>>15131289
My guy...
>>1513128
They are just new fine tuner for bed leveling. I printed one, came out great, loaded three in Cura side by side and each printing independantly centered and installable. But twisted on the Zed axis. I don't know of any translation that would torque Z with the torque translating to the other pieces x.y coordinates. Without just printing them in New locations for every layer. They work. This is just weird. Next thing is to read load it in Cura and see if it twisted.

[Anonymous No.1513209]

>>1512260
Yeah, sure. Have one part jut out a hook, and the other part have a female end for it, rotated 30° or so.
Then at that point, the hole should go back towards the other part, so you can pull on the hook and have it rest there.
Then you make triangular plugs to put inside the hole so it can't rotate back, and a square donut-shaped plug to make sure it doesn't wiggle.
The latter is optional, but makes assembly much easier. The donut-shaped plug will probably have to be in two halves, but you'll figure it out.

[Anonymous No.1513211]

if I do injection molding with glue gun, how do I ensure it gets in the corners?

[Anonymous No.1513258]

>>1513211
>do injection molding
>with glue gun
the absolute madman

>how do I ensure it gets in the corners?
you don't
Best bet would be overvolting the glue gun and heating the mold throughout the process.
Also leave dedicated ventholes.

[Anonymous No.1513263]

>>1513258
I know about the ventholes, but can I just place them anywhere? Or would it be a better idea to start in one corner and put the venthole in the other?

I read an article about it and it seems much cheaper than 3d printing with high infill.
On the other hand, it seems like it would be even cheaper to do it with low-grade epoxy.
Why don't any 3d printers use epoxy?

[Anonymous No.1513268]

In Solidworks, is there a way to simulate the strength of a 3d printed part given infill pattern, plastics, layer adhesion, etc?
I could feed it through the slicer and back-convert it to a model, I presume, but it would be a painful and roundabout way to do it.

[Anonymous No.1513284]

>>1513263
>Why don't any 3d printers use epoxy?
wow.

[Anonymous No.1513292]

>>1513284
Why not? It would be very slow to cure, but that's an engineering problem. It would also need to flush out the system after printing, but that is another engineering problem.

There does exist quick-curing epoxy, so it's not impossible. It would also be possible to use an extremely low-grade plastic as temporary support, like a glue gun.

[Anonymous No.1513293]

>>1513292
noone is stopping you from biulding it if you want it that badly.

[Anonymous No.1513297]

>>1513293
Maybe. It feels easier to make a sacrificial extremely low-infill mold though.

[Anonymous No.1513315]

>>1513292
Would probably just be faster to print a mold and pour in epoxy and break the mold after it has cured.
Now admittedly with an epoxy 3d printer you could do the usual 3d shapes with the infill etc. possibly achieving a higher strength per weight but idk if it is worth it being really fucken slow.
You could also make semi-3d innards with the 3d printed mold, some constraints do apply but just make the negative shape, apply epoxy, let it cure, and then melt out the PLA or whatever plastic you decide to use.
Now that i think about it you could make some pretty damn intricate shapes that have really interesting mechanical properties by printing a mold with the aforementioned inner shapes included.

[Anonymous No.1513318]

>>1513315
The thing with that is that you waste a lot of plastic, especially for bigger components.
The advantage isn't the strength per weight, it's the max strength at 100% infill.

[Anonymous No.1513325]

>>1509499
Anyone know of 3d programs that I can use to import an Adobe 3D PDF file/model? I’m a complete brainlet here

[Anonymous No.1513332]

>>1513325
Gonna guess any Adobe 3D product like fuse. Autodesk 3ds max might be able to import it as it has a TON of plugins for file compat.

[Anonymous No.1513385]

>>1513263
Fab@Home could use epoxy

[Anonymous No.1513412]

>>1513318
You could replicate infill structures in the casting process with the means i suggested.

[Anonymous No.1513444]

>>1513292
>Why not?

Why are there no 3d printers that work with runny materials that can't hold their shape and spread all over the place, truly a mystery. Someone whould really invent a water 3d printer.

[Anonymous No.1513459]

>>1513444
couldn't it just use a frozen bed?

[Anonymous No.1513464]

>>1513459
woah

[Anonymous No.1513539]

>>1513263
>>1513284
>>1513292
>>1513293
>>1513315
>>1513444

Cmon you retards, I can't the only one itt who knows epoxy printers are a thing:
https://youtube.com/watch?v=yW4EbCWaJHE

Yes its fucking slow
yes its fucking expensive
yes its super fucking messy and difficult to work with
yes its fucking cool

[Anonymous No.1513544]

>>1513539
sweet

[Anonymous No.1513546]

>>1513539
What about my idea of using a frozen bed in >>1513459?
It was a joke but I don't see why it wouldn't work
Thermal expansion?

[Anonymous No.1513548]

>>1513539
>Yes its fucking slow

you mean compared to ordinary 3d printers that take 14 hours to make something simple like pic related?

you have to laugh.

[Anonymous No.1513550]

>>1513546
because cold tempreture isn't what permanently hardens epoxy. I'll melt as soon it heats up

You coul'd also just use water and add something to goo it up a little and break the surface tension to form smaller drops.
I'll melt though

[Anonymous No.1513551]

>>1513548
Stereolithography would still be even slower for a part like this.
Maybe there are some sl epoxy printers with more powerful lasers, greater speeds and lower res

[Anonymous No.1513552]

>>1513550
Does freezing stop it from hardening?

[Anonymous No.1513587]

>>1513548
It's only slow because you haven't got your machine configured for the task.

[Anonymous No.1513602]

Does anyone know the name of these sort of spring features I see put into designs occasionally? They give some flex to prints, and I'm look for information or tutorials about how to make them, but I have no idea what they're called.

[Anonymous No.1513603]

>>1513602
Don't know of any tutorials on those.
just use your brain and then trial and error
copying functional designs is a great idea as well

[Anonymous No.1513617]

>>1513603
Damn, i wanted to be spoon-fed. I guess I might have to actually think, probably a good way to become a better designer maybe.

[Anonymous No.1513633]

>>1513551
bullshit. SLA is among one of the fastest processes out there. Using a projector you can expose a layer in an instant.
https://www.carbon3d.com/
Resolution is limited by projector resolution and this can be very high. In the lab 50 um resolution with speeds up to 1200 cubic mm an hour has been demonstrated. We're starting to be limited by the size of print files. a 1 m cube at 50 um resolution would require a an stl file 98 terabytes big.

[Anonymous No.1513706]

>>1513444
RClifeon just did a video on a chocolate extruder.
a frozen bed would probably help there

[Anonymous No.1513709]

>>1513633
eh? why then do SLA prints take so fucken long? on the other hand i can just throw on a 1mm nozzle, increase the temps by 10% and be printing fucking huge models in no time. All the while having superior part strength and lower cost per part, both in man hours and materials.

[Anonymous No.1513714]

I don't really see how you can try to compare the two, resin or other SLA materials vs thermoplastics.

They're totally different. I for one am a firm believer that if you only want one or two of something plastic, nothing is faster than 3d printing it. It would take thousands of dollars and a week of work to turn out an injection mold, vacuum forming might be faster but puts out insanely weak parts

You can retool an fdm machine to print almost anything in less than 24 hours. Which is a pretty reasonable time frame in my opinion, its still faster than buying on amazon and shipping.

[Anonymous No.1513771]

>>1513263
>cheaper than 3D printing with high infill
Are you implying that hot glue is more durable than ABS with like 50% infill or something? Sure, it might be cheaper depending on the size of the part, but you'd be better off casting it out of polyurethane or something.

>>1513539
That's not what most people think when you say "epoxy", which is generally a two-component mix that cures over time and not something photoactivated. You'd be printing with literal liquid which wouldn't be able to hold a shape.

>>1513552
>does lowering the temperature of a chemical process slow it down
I think you need to read up on material science, polymers, thermosets, and thermoplastics, then come back here.

>>1513551
I'm almost certain you don't know what epoxy is or are using the wrong word

[Anonymous No.1513849]

>>1513539
that's not epoxy though

[Anonymous No.1513850]

>>1513771
It slows it down, but does it stop it?
>mix epoxy and hardener
>freeze it
>it hardens while frozen
>can now be heated up to room temperature and remain hard

[Anonymous No.1513855]

>>1513602
Flexures?

[Anonymous No.1513864]

>>1513771
>>1513849
It's not exactly epoxy but it is a quite similar artificial resin fluid, so not that much of a difference.
It's also without hardener compound of course.

[Anonymous No.1513878]

>>1512850
What kind of things are you trying to print?
This was done on an Ender 3

[Anonymous No.1514093]

>Have very well worn CR-10S
>Unsure whether to buy CR-10S Pro or CR-X

Help

[Anonymous No.1514098]

did anything ever come of that guy who was gonna build a train?

[Anonymous No.1514126]

Anyone here with a Duet Wifi?

[Anonymous No.1514127]

>>1513855
Thanks so much, I think that's the exact term. Unfortunately there doesn't seem to be much literature on 3d printing them. I guess it's time for me to experiment.

[Anonymous No.1514134]

>>1514127
I had lessons on flexure design using a book called Constructieprincipes (Principles of construction), but that's probably not available in English.

My FSAE team is currently attempting to 3D-print wishbones with F1-style flexures instead of balljoints, so it's possible.

[Anonymous No.1514157]

>>1514126

Waiting for mine to arrive

[Anonymous No.1514183]

>>1514134
googled around a bit and found this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fFH2RHpcTY
hella fucking interesting, the video mainly deals with flexures as a replacement for bearings and not their use as springs.

[Anonymous No.1514429]

I don't have a 3D printer so I don't know much about it at all. How do you make copies of something? I know there are scanning cameras like that Razer one, but are people able to make a copy of something that they only have a picture of, assuming they have all sides of the object photographed?

[Anonymous No.1514492]

>>1513864
>not that much of a difference
>literally a different compound with different curing properties
Yeah, just like titanium and steel have "not that much of a difference" since they're "quite similar metal materials". Come on.

[Anonymous No.1514525]

>>1514429
>how do you make copies
If it's a simple object (inorganic/manmade) and you're okay with it being close enough and not perfect, it can be done from scratch. Photogrammetry is what you're thinking of and it can get pretty close, if not perfect, depending on the amount and quality of pictures as well as quality of the software you have

[Anonymous No.1514527]

>>1514429
Technical parts are most likey just recreated in CAD by hand, the the technologies are still simply to imprecise to replecate them easily, for the rest there is stuff like:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1D0EhSi-vvc

[Anonymous No.1514535]

>>1514525
>>1514527
>Photogrammetry
That's pretty cool, exactly what I was thinking about. I'm sure it would be too hard to do what I am thinking, a certain ring I like is probably too small and detailed to be copied in this manner. It is easy to buy an actual reproduction of the ring though, so I will probably end up doing that instead.
I imagined making a copy of the ring and somehow making it out of wax and then casting it. I know that there are certain 3D printers exclusively for jewelry making, but I wonder if there is another way to do it.
3D model -> printed model -> mold -> wax cast -> more details -> new mold -> metal casting
Something like that.

[Anonymous No.1514537]

>>1514535
Dude u can just print the object, make a plaster mold, melt out the plastic, and pour in your metal.

[Anonymous No.1514539]

>>1514537
Oh, that makes more sense I guess. There is probably a filament with a low melt-point. Like I said, I don't know much about 3D printing but I'm hoping to get a printer soon and start making stuff. Other than the ring, I don't really have any great ideas or anything but it would always be nice to remake that one little plastic thing that breaks on whatever.

[Anonymous No.1514542]

>>1514539
anon
it's fucking plastic
melts at somewhere between 200-300C
plaster doesn't care about 200-300C
do the math

[Anonymous No.1514546]

>>1514535
Silicone molding is what you want. Oomoo 30 should do it, there's a starter kit on Amazon for like $30-40 IIRC.

[Anonymous No.1514547]

>>1514542
>I don't have a 3D printer so I don't know much about it at all.

[Anonymous No.1514548]

>>1514547
are you a literal caveman?
like i said, plastic is plastic, it melts when you apply heat, unlike plaster which handles heat like a fucking champ

[Anonymous No.1514551]

>>1514548
Do you think it would melt in an oven?

[Anonymous No.1514552]

>>1514551
yeah sure
but i'm not 100% sure if just bringing it to melting temperature is enough, others i've seen bringing the temp a 100C over the melt temp burning the plastic.

[Anonymous No.1514560]

>>1514548
>plastic is plastic, it melts when you apply heat
Forgetting thermosets, are we?

[Anonymous No.1514562]

>>1514183
>>1513602
look up the pseudorigid body method or topology optimize them
>>1513709
>>SLA prints take so fucken long
get a better SLA printer. This is the true power of SLA:
https://youtu.be/O2thSsQrZUM

[Anonymous No.1514566]

>>1514562
i hope you're getting paid a fair wage for this

[Anonymous No.1514569]

>>1514562
>7x speed

[Anonymous No.1514601]

Decent first layer?

[Anonymous No.1514613]

>>1514601
Legitimately asking if I need to keep attacking it and fine tuning or be happy. Tevo hairyspider. Single Z on a piece of mirror with something like 2 thick layers of hair spray. Heated bed at 100°c Black ABS. 240° nozzle 60mm/s

[Anonymous No.1514629]

Offcenter timelapse of one half of candy cane xmas tree.

[Anonymous No.1514657]

I've been looking all over and comparing different filaments and their strengths and temps and I'm going to assume that at a max temp of 240/100 that PLA+ heat treated after is going to be my best choice.

[Anonymous No.1514664]

Does Blender or Maya transition well to Cura or Simplify3D?

[Anonymous No.1514666]

>>1514601
It looks horrible, lines quashed left and right. I am even having a hard time to comprehend what is going on in some places. I am kinda suprised it finished and didnt lost steps or something in a short time.

Is it possible that your first layer hight is more than 3/4 of your nozzle size or line width?

[Anonymous No.1514681]

>>1514666
doesn't look like that. He is squishing his first layer to the point where every second line gets pushed up by so much plastic being forced under it.

[Anonymous No.1514708]

>clean some gunk from the hotend with metal tweezers
>brush against the heater cartridge
>sparks fly

I always assumed the heater was completely insulated.
Luckily, my PSU's PTC kicked in fast enough and nothing seems to be damaged.

[Anonymous No.1514744]

Say you have two parts and want to join them without screws or MEK welding.
How do you do it? Bonus points for methods that don't rely on bending the material and then having it snap into place.

[Anonymous No.1514746]

>>1514601
I have a tevo hairyspider as well fren. Takes a bit of work to get it smooth, so that seriously looks good enough for that printer. Recently ordered another z axis stepper for mine to keep the damn arm from leaning and making it difficult to level the bed.

[Anonymous No.1514762]

>>1514562
wew, the CEO seems slimy
>15:00 - 16:00

[Anonymous No.1514767]

>>1514562
Reminder that those speeds are only achievable when printing lattice structures that distribute the deadzone depletion over the entire build area.

[Anonymous No.1514773]

>>1514666
For some reason my z retraction didn't do it's job this model. It was dragging the hot end a little, but the lines wouldn't touch if it was too far off.
>>1514681
So back it off a hair?
>>1514746
Got the dual head extruder thinking of using the second stepper to drive another z.

Picture is of the top. I got no edge lift and it's floating on 15% infill. 4" blade for reference.

[Anonymous No.1514774]

>>1514773
The model itself looks okay. Here it is pretty treatment.

[Anonymous No.1514795]

>>1514601
yeah it's alright senpai

[Anonymous No.1514796]

>>1514744
Yeah something like your pic prolly.
be sure to take advantage of the way that prints are strongest at a right angle from the print moves, those "strings" of plastic.

[Anonymous No.1514831]

>>1514796
Yeah, the fill is kinda linear and missed the ankle and wrist so I snapped those cleaning up. Going to do a higher res with higher infill in those spots. (The white is super glue) feels like I'm getting best quality at .2 layer height but I was also printing at 230°. Made a temp tower and 230 is where the abs started falling apart. At 240 now. And I have the bed drop 2° every half a centimeter then just turns off at 5 centimeters cause it felt kind pointless to keep hearing it and the base was 4" wide and came out flat.

>>1514795
Thank you.

Any other input I'd really appreciate it. Very very new at this. The flat bit showing light gap.

[Anonymous No.1514975]

This is the ring I was talking about. Are the details too fine for 3D printing?

[Anonymous No.1514987]

>>1514975

Not for 3D printing, but probably too fine for your wallet

[Anonymous No.1515047]

Any autocad users know how I could get each of these tracks to rotate along the path Array at the same time? I know I can do this in other 3D software by adding another modifier. But can't figure it out with AC18. Making the tank from Metal Slug to print.

[Anonymous No.1515104]

>>1514975
3d printer can crank that out mein fren

[Anonymous No.1515113]

>>1514975
Out of plastic instead of Krupp steel?

The Führer disapproves.

[Anonymous No.1515187]

>>1514975
With a 0.2mm nozzle and 0.1-0.08mm layer heights the ring ought to be printable with acceptable detail.
You don't need an expensive printer to do it btw, pic related is on a 150€ printer but you might want to pay a bit more if you want this kind of quality reliably.

[Anonymous No.1515252]

Is it worth it to get a Lulzbot TAZ6 for printing polycarbonate ($2500), or will a Prusa i3 be good enough at it ($1000)? These are prints for a product that I'm developing, so I would prefer it if the quality was high enough to sell.

[Anonymous No.1515260]

>>1515252
Prusa mk2 (600€) is easily sufficient and will produce as good results as even the most expensive FDM machines out there.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pc9qNfqVKRw

[Anonymous No.1515265]

>>1514987
These replicas are actually very affordable, cheaper than a 3D printer. I know the real ones are worth thousands though.

>>1515104
Awesome, I will have to try it out when I get 3D printing.

>>1515113
The plastic would be for a mold. The rings I posted are made out of silver.

>>1515187
Nice, thanks for the tips. I would love to make some busts or scale replicas of certain things, most weapons and armor. I was looking at the Ender3 kits, not sure if that would be good enough or not. I'm still a babby with my knowledge, more research is required.

[Anonymous No.1515276]

>>1515265
Ender 3 is like the mini lathe of 3d printers, it takes knowledge you don't yet have (probably) to make good parts with it. Either that or a lot of time.

[Anonymous No.1515289]

>>1514975
You could print that easy. Hell you'd even get pretty good results on a 0.4 nozzle.

[Anonymous No.1515291]

>>1515276
Yeah but they're easy to learn on and have tons of community support.

[Anonymous No.1515295]

>>1514664
Blender works OK with Simplify3D with the couple of models I tried, but one had a "mystery error" I couldn't solve in either program. Blender works great with Slic3r, though.

[Anonymous No.1515296]

>>1514744
Japanese carpentry definitely would be the way to go

[Anonymous No.1515297]

>>1514975
At that point you might as well get it from Shapeways if you want anything other than plastic - they do steel, silver, bronze, and some other metals.

[Anonymous No.1515306]

>>1514773
spooky ghosts

[Anonymous No.1515313]

>>1515297
>he hasn't heard of lost PLA casting

But really you could make a 3d printed mould to make a wax positive from for traditional casting.

[Anonymous No.1515449]

So I spend almost an hour one day fine tuning a custom gcode song to play when prints are done. For my two prusa mk.2's and an ender 3.

I did all the "songwriting" on a single machine, one of the prusas. I picked notes that didn't necessarily correspond with real life instrument notes, but notes that sounded really good played back on the tiny buzzer on the controller board. Problem is the song sounds super good on the machine I wrote it on, and like utter garbage on the other two machines.

What gives? Does anybody have experience writing music for motherboard buzzers? i'd love to get all three playing music together somehow but its as if each buzzer has its own set of notes along the harmonic series that sound good, and notes that sound bad.

My song only has three notes, and they sound beautiful on one machine, and like indistinguishable computer flatulence on the other two.

[Anonymous No.1515454]

>>1512488
In simplify 3d you could select a specific zheight to change settings at, and change back a few layers later if you wanted.

That thin section of changed settings could include more perimeter walls or increase flow rate, or more overlap

unfortunately it would almost certainly leave artifacts on the entire model at those layer heights... and simplify 3d costs 150 bucks and isn't worth 50 imho

[Anonymous No.1515464]

My first attempt at casting with 3d printed parts.

Went ok, printed with 1mm nozzle, used cheap concrete which was probably not real smart.

https://www.thingiverse.com/make:576686

[dinkle dick !!2YNd2hnnBEO No.1515466]

>>1515464
you gotta rattle the air bubbles out. Try it again senpai.

[Bepis Jr !Z3ZQmEg16A No.1515467]

>>1515464
yeah

[Anonymous No.1515468]

>>1515464
Noice. How big is it?

[Anonymous No.1515470]

>>1515466
Yeah I tried a bit more of that with my second casting, curing right now. lost a lot of water on the second casting, I need to figure out my mix ratios

>>1515468
about 195 cm tall. I had to scale the original model to 95% to fit on my prusa

[Anonymous No.1515495]

>>1509826
CNC is just computer numeric control. It counts.

I gotta wonder how repeatable it will be. Maybe with very light cuts on a screw driven machine it would be ok?

[Anonymous No.1515534]

>>1515265
The Ender will probably work for your purpose but if you envision yourself doing a lot more printing projects than just the rings i would suggest getting a nicer printer, like a Prusa, i know i did that mistake, buying a cheapo when i could have easily justified a better machine with the amount of use it gets.

[Anonymous No.1515536]

>>1515470
>195 cm tall

[Anonymous No.1515538]

>>1515536
thats a keen observation. I overestimated just a tad, looking back and comparing it to other objects of known dimension Its really a bit closer to 19.5 cm tall

[Anonymous No.1515546]

>>1515538
Damnit. I wanted proper sized statutes and urns taller than myself!

[Anonymous No.1515557]

Anyone here use JGAURORA A5S/A5?

[Anonymous No.1515600]

>>1515464
Why not just print concrete?
Duhh..

[Anonymous No.1515640]

Round two
this time portland cement hand mixed with play sand and water, I gotta stop just eyeballing it. it kind of seperated into just water on top, and then leaked water out the sides and bottom of the mold. This is why the top (bottom) of the planter isn't flat

shaking out the air bubbles definitely helped and so did the material change.

I opened up the two shells too soon i reckon and resulted in some cracking on the edge, so I'm gonna wait before I try to remove the core

[Anonymous No.1515725]

>>1515640
Still looks pretty alright and if you had followed mixing instructions properly this project would have been extremely simple and easy.
Really interesting what all you can do with FDM technology.

[Anonymous No.1515806]

>>1513292
You can engineer very fast curing epoxy just need to mix in the nozzle very thoroughly and flush it out at the end of the print. 3D printing back in 80's used a lot of epoxy

[Anonymous No.1515808]

>>1514492
kek

[Anonymous No.1515812]

>>1514539
There are grades of 3D printing filament that will burn out when heated leaving the cavity empty. Just heating it and waiting for the plastic to flow out is gonna leave massive carbon deposits in it that are gonna make for a shitty casting

[Anonymous No.1515828]

>>1515546
You could just print them in parts and put them together though

[Anonymous No.1515972]

>>1515313
You'd have to get rid of the layer lines, which is a right pain in the ass with something of that scale

[Anonymous No.1515976]

>>1515449
It's the resonance of the whole printer, not just the steppers, usually. Different geometry means different vibrations are transmitted to different places.

[Anonymous No.1515978]

>>1515806
>3D printing in 80's used a lot of epoxy
Source? That doesn't sound right. First few technologies I remember are FDM and laser sintering.

[Anonymous No.1515981]

https://fargo.craigslist.org/ele/d/3d-printer-bitcoin-discount/6764210097.html

Anyone ever heard of this brand/model? My coworker just send it to me and I've never actually heard about this brand before. Granted I've never payed attention to the industrial side of 3d printing, and apparently this machine retails for over $20k, uses proprietary filament and software and has terrible specs by today's standards. Honestly though I'd be willing to drop $300 just to tear it apart, see what's in it and maybe re-purpose it.

[Anonymous No.1515982]

>>1513268
What you are looking for is called finite element analysis, or FEA. What are you trying to simulate, made of what material, and under what sort of applied loads?

[Anonymous No.1516011]

>>1515981
I don't think its worth it bro, unless you just want the experience

Basically all companies get with that kind of money is software support, live support, proprietary filament thats guaranteed to work, and an unnecessary ventilation system.
most of those perks are barred from somebody buying it used. proprietary filament certainly isn't a perk.
If you were willing to test all the motor wiring and wire it up to a new motherboard and probably retool the machine with something else than you could maybe make a functional machine for DIY use, otherwise you're just recouping some company a small fraction of their cost

[Anonymous No.1516016]

Any good sources for cheap linear rods?

[Anonymous No.1516018]

>>1515981
Holy fuck not even worth the trouble. You'd have to pay me to take that garbage. It looks like the results are on par with a modern chink printer with the benefit of dissolving supports, but a single spool of the filament probably costs more than the machine if you could even find it.

[Anonymous No.1516104]

>>1515982
Yes, but I'm wondering if there's a way to test it after applying the infill. 3D printed parts, out of ABS or something, under loads I specify.
I know how to do stress analysis in solidworks, we did it in school, but how do it with 3d printed parts specifically?

[Anonymous No.1516113]

Have a slight problem here, This is my fail spot. Always fails right here, the printer just can't see to get any filament out and then it just picks up what's next to it and pulls it over. Should I switch from using a Skirt to a Raft?

Still very new to this, and I didn't like how using a brim turned out and started to use a Skirt instead.

[Anonymous No.1516115]

>>1516018

Man, i still remember back in 2011 on the RepRap blog reading an article about how homebuilt printers surpassed the Stratasys uPrint in print quality:

http://blog.reprap.org/2011/09/tipping-point-of-print-quality-open.html

This was Josef Prusa with his simplified "Mendel" variant, i guess you could retroactively call it the Prusa i1. I too would be damn tempted to do a teardown of that Stratasys printer - no doubt it's heavily overengineered, making the poor print quality more of a mystery. The thing cost more than 10,000 euro, the hardware itself has to be top notch. Perhaps the proprietary slicer/firmware were bad?

[Anonymous No.1516134]

Once and for all /3DPG/
Cura or Slic3r??
3D print virgin newfag here, will receive my Ender3 soon.
I want to start right from the beginning so which horse should I mount?

[Anonymous No.1516135]

>>1515981
Refurbish it and sell it to some business for top dollar.
I had something printed on one of these at my work and quality was very good and washable support = god.
You get the same quality with a MK3 but it's more fiddely.
With these machines you have guaranteed results and thats what matters in the industry.

[Anonymous No.1516139]

>>1516134
Cura.
My prints improved a lot once I switched to it.

It also gets new features faster.
(Anyone else tried "coasting"? It's pretty great for PETG)

[Anonymous No.1516142]

>>1516139
Different anon, you think Sim3D is worth the money? I'm having issues where Cura doesn't generate parts of my models when at 90 degree differences.

[Anonymous No.1516143]

>>1516134

- Cura's UI is all dumbed down from the start and very Ultimaker-oriented.
- Slic3r is clunky but you get to see all the options and the profile system is very handy once you have it set up for your printer.
- Cura's viewport is much better for moving and scaling objects around while Slic3r uses shitty orthographic mode and the rotation/translation is parametric (you type it in).

I use Slic3r mostly but i also have Cura installed if i don't like how Slic3r is doing something. See if you can find an Ender3 printer profile for either, it's much better when someone has already done the picky configuration work for you.

[Anonymous No.1516153]

Why exactly does my extractor motor make so much noise every now and again? Earlier it sounded like it was grinding on the filament, and just wouldn't load it. So I removed it, cut that section and redid it and it worked just fine. But every now and again on this spool I'll heard a hard grinding noise like the filament doesn't want to go in.

[Anonymous No.1516155]

>>1515981
>never heard of Stratasys
You people amaze me

[Anonymous No.1516158]

>>1516134
Cura for newfags, Simplify3D once you've printed for a year and run into some problems using the former.

[Anonymous No.1516167]

>>1516158
>>1516143
Ty, I'll go with cura then.

>>1516139
>"coasting"
Coasting is a technique to reduce stringing. It stops the extrusion feed shortly before the extruder reaches an edge of a part.

[Anonymous No.1516178]

>>1515600
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUdnrtnjT5Q

[Anonymous No.1516186]

Question regarding printing small, should I go for larger than 80mm parts if they are super detailed? I don't think I can get these supports out at this size.

[Anonymous No.1516189]

>>1516186
What are you planning on printing. I've been having no problem printing detailed minis for epic 40k.

[Anonymous No.1516193]

>>1516143
Cura has as many options as slic3r if not more, but you have to enable them.

[Anonymous No.1516194]

>>1516189
Right now printing one of these out, but I've run into issues with the area the bolts would sit on the wheels (the 4 holes) only showing up in the slice on Cura if I turn it 90 degrees, if it lays flat it no longer puts them in. Also excessive amounts of supports.

[Anonymous No.1516200]

>>1516193

Yeah, that's what i meant with"Cura's UI is dumbed down" and "you get to see all the options with Slic3r". Cura has more options, but they're presented as a long list where you have to know specifically what to look for. Like i said, if you have a printer profile where someone has already gone through the massive trouble of setting up a profile with all the right "setting visibilities" it's the best option.

[Anonymous No.1516216]

>>1516200
>dumbed down
The term is simplified.

[Anonymous No.1516222]

>>1516194
Oooh, metal slug

[Anonymous No.1516223]

>>1516222
Indeed it is, I'm re-modeling SV-001. I know there is already one out there, but I wanted to make my own and also make it modular.

[Anonymous No.1516249]

>>1516200
>Cura has more options, but they're presented as a long list where you have to know specifically what to look for.
This is actually a bonus for beginners. You should start out with Cura, if you run into problems you can troubleshoot using Simplify's great online troubleshooting guide, and then you search the Cura settings that can solve your issue. Once this becomes too cumbersome you can swap to a pirated version of Simplify.

[Anonymous No.1516272]

>>1516249

It can be, my statement comes mostly from personal experience. Many of the Cura settings are tuned for an Ultimaker and i had issues from the very start because it assumed the axes could accelerate much more quickly than what my setup was capable of. So i slice something, press print, the Z axis locks up when trying to home and does a loud DRRRRT! Then i'm left wondering what the hell happened.

[Anonymous No.1516276]

>>1516272
That means your printer is misconfigured.
Maximum allowed acceleration is set there, not in your slicer.

[Anonymous No.1516291]

>>1515464
You want to spray the inside of your mould with a 50/50 mix of windex and water before casting.

It breaks up the surface tension.

[Anonymous No.1516401]

>>1516016
motedis if u live in eu

[Anonymous No.1516405]

>>1516115
Yeah, FFF doesn't really require too much when it comes to hardware but if you want good results your software must be optimized well, i mean we're literally squeezing melted plastic on top of more melted plastic with a metal piping bag, this shit ain't precise and it isn't sufficient that your tool head moves the exact correct paths like it is in CNC machining, you have to account for all kinds of shitty this molten plastic tends to do.

[Anonymous No.1516480]

>>1513548
...that wouldn't take me 14 hours. 8 at most. 6 probably.

[Anonymous No.1516501]

>>1516480
You want a medal or something?
Also enjoy your ghosting.

[Anonymous No.1516502]

Anyone have a guide on how to make models that don't need supports?

[Anonymous No.1516504]

>>1516502
Literally just make sure that any angle aint worse than 60° or if it is it is a bridge

[Anonymous No.1516506]

>>1516501
Lol

[Anonymous No.1516509]

Toss the super glue. I used to build fish tanks out of acrylic. Pulled this out from the repair box. Worked freaking beautifully. Warning fumes, flame, sticky, it's a chemical weld. Make a small dot on a piece of tape and dip your part into it (both sides). Also 9.88 at the home Depot for a set of needle files. It's a godsend for pre sanding getting all the supports flat. Photo is weld-on 16. Files and repaired horn. The white on the model is from filing. It'll go away after a light sand or acetone treatment.

[Anonymous No.1516512]

>>1516509
Love my woodo

[Anonymous No.1516522]

>>1516504
When you say a bridge, what exactly do you mean? Like an upward curve?

[Anonymous No.1516565]

>>1516522
A bridge is a single strand connecting two points. In lieu of merging curved. See attached.

[Anonymous No.1516574]

>>1516565
Wait, how do you do that without it drooping? I would think that as it comes out it would sag and then fall to the part below it.

[Anonymous No.1516592]

>>1516574
That's why you make a tower like this. To see what temps allow you to cross distance without sag. You can also (hardish-mode) post production edit to have the fans blow on the layers with bridges to seize them in place. I print in abs so no fans, but I can bridge Ares about 2-3 cm at 240° if I have issues can always add some supports.

[Anonymous No.1516593]

>>1516592
Oh, I actually haven't done any of the calibration or test prints yet. I guess that would be a good idea now that I think about it.

[Anonymous No.1516594]

>>1516522
Attached, forgot pic. You can see at lower temps it's just complete failure. So I stopped the print.

[Anonymous No.1516598]

>>1516593
Holy fudge. Before you do anything. Hairspray and a mirror. Make a mirror bed. Game changer. Also buy a flex putty knife. I sharpened the top, gave the bottom a small bevel and took off (sharpened) the corners. All the prints even hot just pop right off. 10-20 seconds from print finished to new print started, easy.

[Anonymous No.1516601]

>>1516598
Good luck getting a PETG print off.

Kapton is the best print surface.
Prints stick well (but not too well) and no other crap like hair spray/glue stick/windex/etc needed

[Anonymous No.1516602]

>>1516601
Other anon, I'm using a heated diamond glass bed, I've not really noticed any problems with getting parts off, especially if the beds cool.

[Anonymous No.1516603]

>>1516601
Any print that was "too stuck" (before I went from "a little" to "Jesus that's too much") hairspray. I'd just toss my mirror in the freezer. Pops off on it's own in less then an hour. Ikea 4 pack for 10$ so I have a second... And a third. The others just sit in my drawer (haven't needed yet) and the 4th is my base for a acetone chamber.

[Anonymous No.1516608]

>>1516602
>Other anon, I'm using a heated diamond glass bed, I've not really noticed any problems with getting parts off, especially if the beds cool.
You mean like a screen protector?
Never tried it but I heard it's the oleophobic film that keeps it from sticking too hard.

>>1516603
>I'd just toss my mirror in the freezer. Pops off on it's own in less then an hour
Yeah, that's not good enough for PETG.
You'll have pieces of your mirror coming off with your print after a while.

>Ikea 4 pack for 10$ so I have a second...
10$ wide as fuck roll of Kapton from Ali is good for over a hundred bed surfaces. And they last until you run your nozzle right into it or something.

[Anonymous No.1516612]

>>1516158
We are a reseller of simplify 3d and I haven't found any reason to use it over cura or slic3r.

[Anonymous No.1516613]

>>1516522
plastic is hot when extruded
plastic expands when heated
and therefore it also contracts when cooled
so when you pull a string over an opening, like a bridge, it will not droop, it will cool and contract staying relatively straight
we can use this to make "bridges" over nothing, as long as the string is connected well on both ends it wont droop

[Anonymous No.1516618]

>>1516598
dude u gotta round the edges off properly so that you wont scratch anything

[Anonymous No.1516619]

>>1516613
Okay that makes sense. Out curiosity, does Cura have a way to split a model? That way I could design sections of a bridge when I make the model and then just have the model split in areas for convenience of multi-piece modeling?

[Anonymous No.1516623]

>>1516619
uhh idk
honestly i haven't done much model splitting but if i were to do it would just do it while modeling it
i'm not even sure if any splicers have that feature, just do it yourself bruh
download fusion 360, all the features of a proper CAD for free

[Anonymous No.1516625]

>>1516623
If I already have AutoCad18, is it worth getting 360?

[Anonymous No.1516626]

>>1516625
yeah sure
it's free bruh

[Anonymous No.1516633]

>>1516618
This is enough for me, solely because the layer I cooked on is so thick. The small corners really are by design, I've used them to pick and egde of the brim before going flat. Would really be a concern though if the blade wasn't true, go to the tool isle first and borrow a flat edge to verify before buying. Lol

>>1516608
I've run my nozzle so many times my first (stock) bed was unusable. Hence the glass. The melting point is relatively high. Even is I seize or left it zeroed pushing the plate it's no biggie.

Balls

[Anonymous No.1516676]

>>1516633
More balls.

[Anonymous No.1516699]

>>1514562
What a fucking marketing wank. This shit is impossible to watch.
If the printer wouldn't be standing there, making parts, I'd think this is a scam.
It's also so expensive, that they don't even name a price.
Literally magic leap-tier wanking.
Still impressive technology.

[Anonymous No.1516736]

>>1516699
>It's also so expensive, that they don't even name a price.
They don't name it because it's lease/license only. There's a monthly fee to operate it and it's the cost of some entire industrial printers IIRC, like 80k a year or something?

[Anonymous No.1516760]

Is there a list of tolerance checks and stuff I should use to see how good my printer is? Instead of just going around and around trying to find things to test?

[Anonymous No.1516783]

>>1516760
Make balls

[Anonymous No.1516785]

>>1516783
But balls are boring.

[Anonymous No.1516786]

>>1516760
You can but shouldn't check belt tension by sound (YouTube). Just be sure belts are good, plugs are in and bed is level. I used to use a piece of paper, then got a gap gauge, removed the one I needed and tied it to the printer. Now I just smoosh layer.

[Anonymous No.1516789]

>>1516633
>>1516676
That your Tevo hairyspider fren?

[Anonymous No.1516790]

>>1516785
No joke, these were a little tricky. Ended up making halves and welding them after two failed prints.

[Anonymous No.1516791]

>>1516786
Didn't think about using a feeler gauge. Been using a piece of paper so far, but I meant something that I could print out to see how good my printer is with certain settings.

>angles
>bridges
>temps
>speeds

That sort of thing, where I can see what might work best with my printer. As it is I still get fuck loads of stringing on my infill, and when I start my prints it starts at the bottom right corner, but always about 10mm above the surface.

Something I really want is for it to start in the corner, and then drag a layer of filament to my skirt so I can get everything flowing nice before it even gets there. But it never seems to do this and I don't even know how to get it to.

[Anonymous No.1516793]

>>1516789
My hairyspider!!

>>1516791
I recommend against all the combo stuff. I use a brim or skirt to "prime" my needle. Find small prints that focus one problem at a time. Focus and fix, repeat. I like accomplishing many small things more then failing at a big thing. That overhang heat test I posted was great because it should curves, a small tower, an overhang. Neato but I only wanted and really looked at the bridge. This is also a good one. See the stretch limit.

[Anonymous No.1516795]

>>1516793
Appreciate it. I decided since I'm having so much trouble converting the model I'm working on that I'd take a break and at least dial my printer in and learn its limits.

[Anonymous No.1516796]

Is there a way to setup the direction of supports in Cura? It seems like everytime I have a raised bed or flat bottom that sits on the support layers it always goes parralell to the supports and ends up making the first layer of the actual part look like crap. Seems like it would be better to adjust the supports to a 45* angle or something.

[Anonymous No.1516798]

>>1516791
Also, just use supports and brims. Print will go great, com back and elephant foot. Even in a rush. There's never enough time to do it right, but somehow, always enough time to do it again. He a shiney

[Anonymous No.1516799]

>>1516798
>supports
I'm trying to avoid those, every time I've used them they leave my surface completely fucked up on the print and are a nightmare to get off. I've seen people who just peel their shit off and I have no idea how they do that, because this shits stuck like a fucking rock each time.

[Anonymous No.1516801]

>>1516796
Not that I'm aware of, you can adjust and increase the z distance or get a file set. Small files are awesome. Balls ( no pic )

[Anonymous No.1516802]

>>1516798
>>1516799
>brims
Also I've started to aviod these as it leaves the entire underside of my print ruined. Every time I've used it it's left nothing but a disaster that I can't remove.

[Anonymous No.1516806]

>>1516799
Fine tune and take notes on your x, y, and z distance. If it's hell to remove increase it. When not doing it's job decrease it. Take notes take notes. Material and distance then score 1-10. That way you can reference them on new builds. I commit nothing to memory. All notes. My sudo butt looked like this.

[Anonymous No.1516812]

>>1516802
I remove the brim toward the print. Then file lightly down to remove overhand. Print brim only Around the model.

>>1516799
Initially like this. I made a monster.

[Anonymous No.1516814]

Light File. (Have I mentioned 10$ needle files yet) and a little sand. Ready to acetone set.

[Anonymous No.1516815]

>>1516812
Yes even the mouth and eyes.

[Anonymous No.1516839]

>>1516785
Acetone dipped

[Anonymous No.1516850]

>>1516839
Make sure you rinse your balls before dipping. My mistake.

[Anonymous No.1516869]

>>1516850
I've had that same problem some times when trying to finish ABS parts too; the part turning whiteish/has white spots on it. Does anyone know what causes this?

[Anonymous No.1516886]

>>1516869
Likely the residue pooling and running. They are only where It ran after dipping

[Anonymous No.1516945]

>>1516869
>>1516886
Wait til all the acetone evaporated and the ABS is really solid again, use a lighter to carefully heat up a white spot, if it disappears, it was microcracks. If they stays, then the acetone reacted with the color pigments in the ABS.

Also, Acetone vapor>>>acetone dipping.

[Anonymous No.1516949]

>>1509754
360 is free.

[Anonymous No.1516952]

>>1516142
Not that guy but I don't think its worth the money. I went from using slic3r to s3d and I still have to go back to slic3r sometimes because s3d just can't deal with broken stl's. I also notice that s3d makes some bad decisions printing the parts where horizontal surfaces meet vertical walls. nothing i've printed in s3d has been watertight. slic3r was just as good if not better, but lacked a few key features i wanted

[Anonymous No.1516955]

>>1516952
So would you take Slic3r over Cura?

[Anonymous No.1516964]

>>1516955
at least with the prusa edition you've got to fucking download the g-code before you see the print time, cost etc. which is fucking infuriating.

[Anonymous No.1516979]

>>1516113
Slow down your first layer maybe? No cooling first layer, low cooling second and third? Raise the bed temp? Could be any number of things.

[Anonymous No.1516981]

>>1516134
I fucking love S3D myself. Didn't pay a penny for it and have gotten absolutely perfect results with my Ender 3.

[Anonymous No.1516982]

>>1516979
No cooling and it was running at 10mm/s. All the way up to the third row. Bed temp was at 70c for base PLA.

[Anonymous No.1517030]

Decided i wanted a bit of privacy in my room so i designed this "lock" thingy, anything glaringly obviously wrong about it?
The idea is that you can just push it, it slides down 10mm to lock, and it stops the door handle from turning.

[Anonymous No.1517035]

>>1517030
And here it prints, i'm using PLA at 240°C with 1mm nozzle at 0.4mm layer height.
I don't give a crap about stuff like surface finish i just wanted this thing done as quickly as possible.
You can see the extruder gear spinning really fast there, pretty scary, but seems to work alright

[Anonymous No.1517076]

>>1517030
I'm missing something in this design. Are you an non native English speaker? Does it slide down towards your feet or towards the door? At any rate, the only thing I can really comment on is the infill you're showing in >>1517035; it strikes me as low, just seems like it would allow a lot of flex if someone jammed on the handle more than normal (I could be wrong). I've been pretty hep on gyroid infills lately; still dense at low infill % without losing too much speed.

[Anonymous No.1517079]

Lmao one of my axises is wrong way around so the part came out upside down, also ran out of filament midway through so i had to change to this blue, looks pretty neat i guess
Kinda somewhat happy it failed since i've got to tweak the design a bit, it doesn't fit perfectly on the handle
>>1517076
The part is pretty solid. The way i meant for this to work is that you push it away from yourself on top of the handle and then downwards 10mm to lock it

[Anonymous No.1517083]

>>1517079
Ah, I get it now. Maybe add something in there to let you pull it away to unlock? I don't see any easy bits to grab on to.

[Anonymous No.1517086]

>>1517083
nah u can just grab the whole thing and slide it off, it's not like it's slippery or anything

[Anonymous No.1517101]

Printed this on my cheap Anet a8, used no supports and only had a little bit of stringing underneath each overhang, removed them with a scalpel in a couple minutes, the top is seperate

[Anonymous No.1517161]

>>1516945
>Acetone vapor>>>acetone dipping
I usually sand the part to lessen the appearance of layer lines and then brush the area with a qtip dipped in acetone to get rid of the discoloration and roughness of the sanding. With acetone vapor you get the risk of shrinking the part as a whole. I also do the said method when I have to fill holes or cracks that arn't suppose to be there. I'd show a pic related but the only part I can think of off the top of my head is currently supporting my water loop in the pc I'm typing this on.

[Anonymous No.1517211]

>>1517101
yo that looks pretty good dude.
I've printed many tiny window panes vertically like that on my prusa mk2 and thats about the best I've ever gotten them off my machine

[Anonymous No.1517245]

>>1517086
yo since its going to be part of the room decor, you should consider slowing it down a bit and lowering the layer height. really no reason that part couldn't have a "finished" (i.e. technically complete) surface

[Anonymous No.1517270]

>>1517245
Yeah now that you mention it i ran into some problems with the 0.4mm layer height and dropped it down to 0.3mm and it looks really nice.

[Anonymous No.1517304]

Alrightey, seems to work perfectly, the door cannot be opened from the other side and the 0.3mm layers made it look pretty nice.
Also it really is rock solid, while you could probably break it by hammering the door handle you wouldn't be able to break it with your bare hands.

[Anonymous No.1517309]

Should I bother with a triple leadscrew Z-axis bed for a 200x200x150mm corexy? Or is cantilevered with a single screw good enough? I'm planning on implementing autoleveling with a bltouch. I want to keep the cost as low as possible for the hardware

[Anonymous No.1517311]

>>1517309
Shouldn't one leadscrew and rail be just fine?
If it tilts a bit you can just level the bed with the adjustment screws and it doesn't affect anything

[Anonymous No.1517328]

>>1517304
Niice
now you can start selling them to your neighbors

[Anonymous No.1517332]

>>1517311
I was thinking of a leadscrew and two linear rods for the cantilever. Triple leadscrew would end up being 3 screws with 3 rods flanking the bed, so 3x the cost.

[Anonymous No.1517346]

>>1517304
May you wank in peace finally.

[Anonymous No.1517347]

>>1517332

Don't bother with triple leadscrews, use two big fat linear rods and a single leadscrew (Ultimaker's solution). 12mm, maybe more. If you're still worrdied about the cantilever design wobbling, you can try 2 leadscrews and 4 linear rods (as on the E3D Bigbox).

[Anonymous No.1517357]

>>1517347
>you can try 2 leadscrews and 4 linear rods
I had this on a 300x300x300mm large printer (built for 350 but I decided to get a smaller bed at the last moment), it rocked way too much during bed leveling, it made it hard to level the bed.

I guess I'll just go with the single screw and two rods

[Anonymous No.1517365]

Guess what guys

[Anonymous No.1517401]

>>1517365
More balls...

[Anonymous No.1517423]

>>1517346
indeed indeed

[Anonymous No.1517554]

>>1517401
The top layer quality of your prints doesn't seem to be the greatest, my man. What kind of machine are you using?

[Anonymous No.1517612]

>>1517401
>>1517554
extrusion rate is a little too high

[Anonymous No.1517650]

>>1517554


>>1517612
I agree but been doing a lot of filing as practice. These are solely to test more complex objects so not too stressed out. Let's me sand and finish more. It's a 2 year of Tevo HairSpider.

[Anonymous No.1517651]

>>1517650
After a little finishing and sanding.

[Anonymous No.1517678]

I've got a question: I tried to print https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2222384, and everything -looked- good, print-wise, until I went to snap the joints together. Everything was waaay too tight to press-fit, so it seems like my parts are printing slightly thicker than they should be. What kind of setting should I be adjusting to fix this, extrusion, filament diameter, wall thickness, etc?

[Anonymous No.1517712]

>>1517678
Joking? What's the name of the print

[Anonymous No.1517716]

>>1517712
The name of the print is ModiBot Mo. Did the link not show up correctly?

[Anonymous No.1517720]

>>1516153
loud clicking/thumping that you can feel through the filament? That's the motor skipping steps. maybe causes:
1. clogged nozzle
2. temp too low
3. you just transitioned from high temp plastic to low temp plastic and some of the old stuff is still in there
4. Your cold-section->heatbreak transition has some ridges in it. Filament can snap and catch on one of these
5. your heatbreak or heatsink is low quality or inconsistent. The filament can melt too high in the heatbreak, then cool, which binds it to the cold-section

[Anonymous No.1517722]

>>1517716
IDK what that other anon is thinking, the link's fine. You might have overextrusion issues, possibly (but unlikely) wall thickness; try printing some test pieces (something like https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:507014 ) and checking to make sure they come out correctly.

[Anonymous No.1517729]

Muh Santa

[Anonymous No.1517771]

A bunch of relatives are coming over for a party today and no doubt they will all drool over my printer like all stinky normies do so i will be no doubt forced to print shit to appease their norminess.
Thats fine, i don't mind showing off my tech, but what do i print? I want to print something that doesn't take longer than an hour to make and is actually useful in some way or pretty enough in some way so that i can't give it to them knowing that if i was given that same thing i woudln't just throw it into the trash the next day.

[Anonymous No.1517774]

>>1517771
Roman eagle or Augustus bust, scaled to the size of your liking.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:196044
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2754168

[Anonymous No.1517776]

>>1517774
I was thinking something more practical, like a cool keychain, or some small gadget, no relatives of mine would appreciate a sort of pointless bust

[Anonymous No.1517781]

>>1517776
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2261211

[Anonymous No.1517787]

>>1517771
i usually make self defense nekos, people love that shit
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:43308

[Anonymous No.1517791]

>>1517787
Lmao

[Anonymous No.1517809]

Alright lads, CR-10S or Tevo Tornado, and why?

[Anonymous No.1517814]

>>1517771
Maker coins

[Anonymous No.1517815]

>>1517814
Into the trash it goes. Why would you keep a piece of plastic with someone elses name on it?

[Anonymous No.1517817]

>>1517815
...your relatives do like you don't they? And if they don't, why the fuck are you pandering to them?

[Anonymous No.1517819]

>>1517817
They do so they would keep it out of moral obligation, but i want to give them something they WANT to keep not something they have to keep out of obligation.
I like the neko knuckles idea, I will make those i think.

[Anonymous No.1517847]

>>1517819
Don't dude those are cringe as fuck.

[Anonymous No.1517861]

>>1517819
Make christmas decorations dumbass. Print some baubles and let them take them home and put them on their tree.

[Anonymous No.1517915]

trying to print on a raft but as show in photos there is not enough friction to stay in line and it veers. I have raised the bed almost to the max of what a proper print will come to. Printing directly on the bed is successful but there are some fine details I want to manipulate by a raft and support materials.

Any solutions to printing with rafts but the layers won't adhere as placed.

[Anonymous No.1517919]

gonna make an enclosure out of card stock, anyone tried it before and if so any tips?
i'm gonna make it so that you can disassemble it and fold it up for storage.

[Anonymous No.1517920]

>>1517915
your slicer ought to have a setting to reduce the distance between the print and the raft

[Anonymous No.1517923]

>>1517920
Cura?

[Anonymous No.1517929]

>>1517771
So i just solved it easily. O opened thingyverse and let everyone select one thingy they wanted.

I present to you the current normie trends.
I had no idea you could spend an hour selecting a damn keychain.

[Anonymous No.1517931]

>>1517923
reduce the value of Raft Air Gap

[Anonymous No.1517935]

>>1517929
based top left

[Anonymous No.1517948]

>>1517678


>>1517722
Well when I click it...

[Anonymous No.1517964]

>>1517931
thanks for even screencaping it. I found it! It really is worth looking through all these settings because there is so much!

Anyone try out some other print options they found useful, like tree supports? I see some of us activate nearly all the settings options to modify.

[Anonymous No.1518014]

What is the best printer with a direct extruder you can buy now, that doesn't require assembly and fiddling like a cheap Prusa clone?

[Anonymous No.1518082]

>>1518014
There are a lot of options. I like my tevo with heated bed and mirror top. I built the whole thing on to a 3/4 plywood then printed supports and ran a line from front top rear as a top end support. Virtually no Z wiggle. Needs dual z motors for how wide it is desu though.

[Anonymous No.1518139]

>>1517948
That's because you've got the comma in at the end, phoneposter.

[Anonymous No.1518146]

>>1518139
Fixed. Thank you. That little mo is adorable!

[Anonymous No.1518210]

I think I'm done.

I used Shapeways as none of my printers could print straight.

I modeled the geometry myself in Blender.

[Anonymous No.1518211]

>>1518210

[Anonymous No.1518213]

>>1518211

[Anonymous No.1518215]

>>1518210
>>1518211
>>1518213
Neat. How much did the print end up costing you? Up for making a teardown/explanation of how you assembled, painted, etc. it and added the lights?

[Anonymous No.1518219]

>>1518215
>How much did the print end up costing you?
A lot. About 100-200$ over few weeks. Their website is poorly written so I had to split the gun into 6 prints.

[Anonymous No.1518221]

>>1518215
>assembled
super glue, not complicated

>>1518215
>painted
random cheapest spray cans of ebay. I had to sand the prints because shapeways won't do it and their prints come out rough. It used to be available before they broke the code.

>>1518215
>added the light
2x LEDs of in series + LED strip off Amazon. All red. The color looks off on camera because of camera exposure. They are pure red IRL.

I sprayed white paint on transparent plastic and folded it to get the 'milk glass' effect at the front of the gun needed to diffuse the light from LEDs. The light needs to be allowed to scatter inside so the individual LEDs are not visible.

[Anonymous No.1518223]

>>1518221

[Anonymous No.1518290]

Anyone know if 70% isopropyl alcohol would work as a good way to get uncured resin off anycubic prints?

[Anonymous No.1518346]

>>1518290
1. buy 99% ipa
2. dilute it with water
3. ??
4. profit

On a more serious note. The water content of the 70% ipa will not help with cleaning since the resin is hydrophobic. But im curious to see what exactly will happen.

[Anonymous No.1518360]

>>1518346
I'm just asking cause that's all I have access to at the moment. It seems nowhere in Japan sells 99% IPA...

[Anonymous No.1518361]

>>1518360
Lol, weeb

[Anonymous No.1518412]

>>1518219
>100-200$ for such an ugly piece of shit
lmao

[Anonymous No.1518414]

>>1518361
Yes. Now, could you be helpful?

[Anonymous No.1518437]

>>1518290
I use blue mouthwash

[Anonymous No.1518634]

Anons, I'm a retard when it comes to this stuff and I need help. I need a software that can make 3d models out of numerous pictures. I know that there's a ton of them, but I need one that's not crap or super expensive.

The model has to be pretty accurate since it's actually for scientific research. I've been struggling anons- any help would be appreciated.

Thanks Frens

[Anonymous No.1518635]

>>1518634
ImageJ

[Anonymous No.1518637]

>>1518635
Can ImageJ/FIJI do alignments?

[Anonymous No.1518669]

>>1518360
Try it. I think you need to clean the part more with 70%

Whenever i clean parts with 99% and then i add water to it solution gets hazy. Either the resin or the water gets out of solution and just floats like tiny bubbles.

>>1518634
How big of a volume you have?

[Anonymous No.1518675]

>>1518669
I'm not sure what you mean by volume, but I have around 50-200 pictures. Of course, I can adjust the number.

[Anonymous No.1518678]

>>1518669
What is the difference man, jeez. You know that IPA is also called 'rubbing alcohol' which they use in hospitals? When you go to get your flue vaccine they use it to disinfect your skin. They have buckets of IPA, you should find their supplier.

I own a Photon printer and use Monocure resin. I used IPA at the beginning but then noticed that leaving prints overnight in plain 'mouth wash' from the supermarket works great.

[Anonymous No.1518680]

>>1518678
That's just ethanol.
It's much cheaper to buy that as denatured alcohol.

[Anonymous No.1518681]

>>1518675
I work with CT data, they are basically images stacked on top of each other, we call that a volume because it has a height (number of images), width and depth (your image size)

Do you want to get an isosurface from the data? Check out slicer (not slic3r), that could help with it.

>>1518678
>What is the difference?
You can tell me after you tried. I have no idea, but i feel it matters.

[Anonymous No.1518683]

>>1518681
Unfortunately they're not stacks on top of one another- they're like regular pictures as you would try and model say a tree or a person

[Anonymous No.1518693]

>>1518683
i dont get it
post pics maybe?

[Anonymous No.1518738]

>>1518681

For CT data try InVesalius, it takes DICOM files directly. Like any other model derived from an image sequence it's likely going to need cleanup but it should be manageable. Actually you should get better results than general-purpose photogrammetry software for your case.

https://invesalius.github.io/download.html

[Anonymous No.1518744]

A paper enclosure.
The proper angles of the paper creases will be defined by printed parts at the top and bottom, a flat top will be simply glued on top of the printed parts on the top.
Holes will be simply cut and then something like clear packing tape will be applied on top to create windows.

[Anonymous No.1518754]

>>1518744
But what does it all mean basil?

[Anonymous No.1518764]

Here it is with the paper top and the plastic parts modeled as well, might not even need any plastic parts at the bottom.
>>1518754
what do you mean?

[Anonymous No.1518792]

>>1518680
Hmm, I guess I'll try the 70% and denatured and post results.

[Anonymous No.1518805]

>>1518681
>>What is the difference?
>You can tell me after you tried. I have no idea, but i feel it matters.
It wasn't a literal question. I know what the difference is - none.

>>1518764
Looks like a toilet air refresher.

[Anonymous No.1518823]

>>1518805
>toilet air refresher

[Anonymous No.1518825]

>>1518823

[Anonymous No.1518829]

>>1518792
Why dilute it?

[Anonymous No.1518837]

>>1518829
low flash point?

[Anonymous No.1518839]

>>1518837
Is still around room temperature at 70%.

Just don't clean your prints near an open flame.

[Anonymous No.1518875]

>>1518839

[Anonymous No.1518906]

>>1518693
>>1518738
Both of you are misunderstanding, the anon is talking about using photogrammetry to reconstruct a model, not a CT scan or slices of an object

[Anonymous No.1518912]

>>1518829
It's the only concentration I can get locally.

[Anonymous No.1518965]

I'm looking to get a 3Doodler. Anyone here have experience with them, or problems they've encountered? Any suggestions on where to get variety of filament colours that's not just the overpriced "refill packs"?

[Anonymous No.1518967]

>>1518906
>>1518683
The question was not clear.

In that case, VisualSFM is used a lot for precision scanning (terrain and shit), but you have to have coded markers.
Also 3DF Zephyr is good to, less options, easier process.

[Anonymous No.1518970]

>>1518965
Why not get a pen that eats 1.75 filament?
I wouldnt want to limit myself.

[Anonymous No.1518978]

>>1518965
Get one like >>1518970 said and look up AmazonBasics PLA on Amazon, they got a assorted pack of them with 22 different filaments, 1.25 kg of PLA for 31 bucks, should be very decent and plenty.

[Anonymous No.1518985]

>>1518970
>>1518978
Looks like those pens are more expensive and not as reputable. Sadly, I just missed the last stock of the $18 ones but I got one of the $30 ones - no big loss, I suppose.

[Anonymous No.1519326]

Based on previous input I've decreased feedrate 5% on these ball. Looks like a little gapping at the top. And some failure at the big ball. Going to bring it back up 2%.

[Anonymous No.1519573]

bump for survival!