/diy/ - Do It Yourself

[Anonymous No.1494948]

Just a general sharpening question, what's the best range of whetstone grits to buy to get a blade shaving sharp? Thanks!

[Anonymous No.1494951]

>>1494948
600, 1000, 1500. Anything more is autism.

[Anonymous No.1494956]

>>1494948
Get a decent 1k and 5k. But the naniwa specialty stone is what is going to be what makes it shave ready. Just buy it, don't argue.

[Anonymous No.1494978]

Technique > Gear.

A coarse stone (<300), a fine stone (>600), and a leather strop with polishing compound are all you need. The rest is all about keeping a consistent edge angle. Don't be ashamed to use a jig if your freehand skills suck.

Unless you are doing a literal shaving razor, then more is justified.

[Anonymous No.1494997]

>>1494948

I use 120, 320 , 600 then I have a strop on a glass strip with taped 1500 sandpaper(i rarely change it so it's very worn off) on one side and paper with polishing compound on the other side. If I want it a bit finer after the 600 I pass it on makita 1500 and then to the strop.
And if it's a kitchen knife after 300 I directly go to the strop.

[Anonymous No.1495000]

Start with a Norton IB8 and get fucking good with it. Once you can shave arm hair without scraping, get a finer stone.

It is a waste of money to buy stones before you develop technique. When sharpening you receive a constant stream of feedback from the stone, and all stones give different feedback.
You will know what you need once you can make use of it.

[Anonymous No.1495004]

The key is using a strop. You can even just use a basic sharpening stone like the puck ones on Amazon. More important is getting your angles right which depends on the blade. To get good at this use a sharpie on each side of the edge of the blade and slowly change the angle until the sharpie starts to get rubbed off and get used to keeping your hand at that angle. Then use a strop and use it after every use of your blade to keep it as sharp as possible and decrease the need to use the stone.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1495027]

>>1494948
Get yourself a high quality ferro rod. It will keep you’re knoife sharp as your starting fires on weekend outings.

[Anonymous No.1495094]

>>1494978

I always use figurative shaving razors, am I doing it wrong

[Anonymous No.1495112]

>>1495094
No, it's fine as long you have a figurative beard.

[Anonymous No.1495143]

Grits are not standard across stone "types."

Water stones have an inflated grit number. Or Oil stones have a deflated grit number, whichever you prefer. This means a 15k waterstone is roughly equivalent to a 3k ruby ceramic oil stone. A black arkansas is in this range as well. Sandpaper also has inconsistent grit rating but where it lies depends on which country standard the manufacturer follows.

Stropping creates a micro serration. This is for knives/razors ONLY. For chisels/handplanes/etc you want either a very fine stone or lapping film on a hard surface. Do not use polishing compound. It's not for sharpening. Stropping compound is only good if the manufacturer has it at a specified micron. Don't "strop" on a buffing wheel either. All that bad shit will only improve an edge if you sharpened wrong in the first place.

That said, the minimum I would recommend for a homeowner is actually simple and gives you a decently sharp blade without autism:
A powered grinder with coarse wheel. Whatever you can get for cheap, if that means the first you find is an old cranked grinder at a flea market then get that. You don't need to bust out the CC for a tormek if you pay attention. Make sure it has a usable tool rest. Protip: Don't quench hot tools in water unless you can dunk them tang-first. You can cause micro cracking which will make the thing dull quicker as you use it. Just swap to a different tool while that one air cools.

A coarse norton crystolon stone.
A medium norton india stone.
And a reasonably flat brick the same width/length. Flatten one with the brick then flatten them against each other. You need 3 stones for it to work.

If you have no self-contained work area, like living in an apartment, get a B&D Workmate so you can do it outside on a relatively stable surface. Extension cord and small enough grinder if you're close to ground level, cranked grinder if you're SOL on that regard.

Please hold small items to the grinder using locking pliers and wear PPE

[Anonymous No.1495275]

as other anons said dont go full autistic get a coarse one and a fine-ish one or if you dont plan on restoring much get a double sided one medium-fine and low grit sandpaper when you are establishing bevels and repairing tools

tough, for water and oil stones be REALLY autistic about flattening them, dont wait till they get dished flaten them after heavy use and/or/if/when starting and ending sharpening, srly they are a bitch to re flatten ask me im fixing an old one i used before buying my chinesse diamond plates

[Hansol !WXeJR7upbo No.1495294]

just hold the fucking thing straight and dont over-do it

the more you sharpen it the more you round (dull) it

hold at a bit under a 45 degree angle and swipe, flip over, swipe, check edge

usually i do this about 3 times

im assuming you mean honing and not actually sharpening, which is a little more involved

[Anonymous No.1495324]

>>1495294
Everything in this post is wrong and the poster is an obvious idiot. You would do well to ignore it.

[Anonymous No.1495337]

>>1495294
>The more you sharpen it the more you dull it

[Anonymous No.1495526]

>>1494948
do you have any experiance sharpening knives OP? if not then just buy the cheapest whetstone you can find and practice practice practice. sandpaper works pretty well as well. especially 600 grit and higher

[Anonymous No.1495528]

>>1495027
>that shitty chinesium cord-wrapped tanto
that makes me more angry than the ferro rod

[Anonymous No.1495532]

>>1495143
how do i flatten/resurface oil stones?
i have an old white translucent stone and a black arkansas stone that are currently unusable

[Anonymous No.1495533]

>>1495294
>the more you sharpen it the more you round (dull) it
:^(

[Anonymous No.1495537]

>>1494948
All of them.

[Anonymous No.1495643]

>>1494948
Thread reminded me I needed to flatten my stones.

Dont buy a flattening stone. They are all shit, they wear out too fast, and then you have to flatten your flattening stone. Just pick up a piece of granite and some 220grit. Mark your stone with a pencil and rub it back and forth until all pencil Mark's are gone. You can bevel the edges if you want. But these are for my straight razors, what are you sharpening? If it's just kitchen knives I just use my belt sander with 1000grit belt. Super fast and easy.

[Anonymous No.1495648]

>>1495643
how do i flatten arkansas stones?

[Anonymous No.1495658]

>>1495532
>>1495648

You need 3 surfaces. A, B, and C. A is your stone, B and C are flattening stones, which can just be big enough bricks, flattish rocks, or one being a different stone. Don't buy a flattening stone for oil stones, they're for waterstones. Rub B and C together until reasonably flat. Rub A and B together until reasonably flat. Rub A and C together until completely flat. You need to have a common plane between 3 surfaces, using only two will make one concave and the other convex. Even sandpaper on glass will wear unevenly and cause issues.

This is how a surface plate is made, by the way. They just do it with granite or cast iron.

If one is seriously dished like the old one in picrelated you will need to grind it down on the sidewalk or something til the points of contact are not so narrow, then you can go as before.

You don't want to do this with belt grinders/sanders btw, since it will kick up a shitload of dust and load the belts real quick.

>>1495643
Flattening stones are for water stones and you need to flatten them for the reason I said before. They're grooved because water stones wear very quickly and the grooves allow the slurry to escape. I am not a fan of water stones because of how quickly they wear down. They do cut pretty fast but that's a minor issue compared to spending so much time flattening them in between.

[Anonymous No.1495669]

>>1495648
Pretty much what >>1495658 said. I'd get the cheap sharpening stone from HF and just go to town rubbing them together, if your Arkansas stone is really fucked up untill it is pretty flat, then finish it with the granite and sand paper method. You can wet sand it in the tub or sink. Just make sure the sandpaper is wet sandable. Lots of elbow grease.

[Anonymous No.1495687]

>>1495669
Funny you mention that. The HF/dollar tree/discount oil stones are actually serviceable in and of themselves. The catch is they require you to soak them in at least an entire bottle of mineral oil for days so there's a hidden cost behind them, and the size is kinda shitty. If you don't do that they clog real easy. Not worth compared to a proper stone.

[Anonymous No.1495714]

>>1495643
220 grit isn't going to do shit. Just get some 60grit diamond lapping plates from china.

[Anonymous No.1495722]

>>1495528
what do you suggest? leather or intestine?

[Anonymous No.1495725]

>>1495714

>220 isn't going to do shit.

I posted a pic of all my stones just I flattened with 220 grit.

[Anonymous No.1495880]

>>1495643
Lapping plates work great. I won't name mine unless asked because I have had several and they all seem to work well with mildly varying degrees of durability (corrosion and surface efficiency). Some take slightly different techniques to be most efficient with, but it's pretty simple in all I've used. I will say that I've never used a sub $50 one, aside for the fact that they were much cheaper than that when I first started sharpening as a kid, so I can't vouch for those. I avoid them because I have used honing rods with similar surfaces to the cheaper lapping plates, and those like to wear out stupidly fast.

[Anonymous No.1495952]

>>1494948
I sharpen my Swiss army knife with the victorinox branded field sharpener. Has sharpened other knives with no issues.

No need to get fancy Anon, just use what you find works.

[Anonymous No.1496374]

Diamond plates?

[Anonymous No.1496466]

>>1496374
Only DMT or Dia-flat are worth it. The exception is if you're just sharpening utility/camping/standard kitchen knives which don't need 100% flat exactness. They wear out faster than oilstones but you will never see some people talk about it because the durability difference is on the magnitude of decades. Oilstones cost less up front and while you do have to buy mineral oil you should have it anyway for cutting boards, lubricating food-contact machines, and as a general purpose "safe" oil.

Dia-flat will last up to 5 years or so depending on use.
DMT will last up to 15.
Cheapos maybe 3 years.
Oilstones, depending on thickness can outlive you as long as you keep them flat and don't drop them.

Diamond plates will gradually cut slower and finer as the diamonds wear down. DMT uses monocrystaline which means they break down at a slower rate than dia-flat or the cheapos. I don't know about how good norton's diamond plates are.

[Anonymous No.1496552]

>>1495143
>Stropping creates a micro serration. This is for knives/razors ONLY. For chisels/handplanes/etc you want either a very fine stone or lapping film on a hard surface. Do not use polishing compound. It's not for sharpening. Stropping compound is only good if the manufacturer has it at a specified micron. Don't "strop" on a buffing wheel either. All that bad shit will only improve an edge if you sharpened wrong in the first place.

This woodworking nigga https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GN4yr7vp4I4 uses strop and compound for his chisels and planes

[Anonymous No.1496619]

>>1496552
Everybody makes mistakes.

[Anonymous No.1496624]

>>1494948
I use 325 (coarse) and 1200 (extra fine) diamond plates from DMT on all my chisels, plane irons and knives, plus stropping with green compound. They work great.

[Anonymous No.1496683]

>>1496552
Paul Sellers is a great guy but he's not correct on everything. He's wrong on sharpening, what a (modern at least) cap iron/chip breaker does, and he claims cast iron planes will flex when you try to flatten them if they're not done assembled.*

Here is a sharpening autist that goes into WAY too much work for a perfect woodworking edge: http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/Sharpen/sharpen.html

He also compares different steels.
I don't follow all his shit because going through loads of lapping paper isn't in my interest, but I will never strop my tools again.

*- The proof for this was in a video by a guy called "Plane Collector" on youtube, but he went on a big hiatus and hid his whole channel on plane restoration a year or so ago :(

[Anonymous No.1496684]

>>1496683
To clarify: Cast iron plane soles DO NOT flex if assembled or not, so you can take them down or put them together to lap them, it makes no difference.

[Anonymous No.1496690]

>>1495722
Treated leather will hold up longer before rotting

[Anonymous No.1496894]

>>1495722
>>1496690
>Wat is Shagreen

[Anonymous No.1497764]

>>1494948
It depends.
First off grits are NOT standardized among countries, so you can't say a 1000 grit is the same for an arkansas stone, a japanese wetstone or a piece of abrasive paper. It varies a lot even among brands, and for high grits it's wild west.

This said, do you want a set to mantain already sharp knives sharp, or to restore dull or damaged blades?
In the first case a single combo wetstone like an 800/1600 or 1000/3000 (and everything in between) and a strop is all you need. Of you don't have leather a piece of denim make a very good strop.
In the second hypothesis you need to add something like 150 or lower to restore geometry and something around 400 to prepare the blade for the sharpening. In this range you might consider getting diamond stones: they stay flat, cut fast and last long if well built. A good and not very expensive brand is Eze-Lap.

[Anonymous No.1498306]

>>1494948

Depends. Grit sizes mean different things for different kinds of stone.

Diamond: DMT (anyone try ultrasharp?) See pic.

Arkansas: see Dan's Whetstone's, the site has an explanation. Basically all novaculite Has the same grit size, and the difference is the density of how the grains are packed.

Waterstone: start with Norton. That's what people usually mean when they say grit. Shapton if you have tons of cash.

Scarysharp: wet/dry sandpaper in various grits, plus a piece of plate glass and some spray glue. You need to go to higher grits w sandpaper than a waterstone.

Get a sharpening jig. I'd start with scary sharp and master that. Once you're used to it, you'll know what to go with. They'll all work, it's just a balance of speed/convenience/money. For oil and especially waterstones, you'll need to flatten the stone to fight dishing, usually via a diamond lapping plate.

I prefer diamond stones. They last forever (in my case, 12+ years so far), don't need to be trued, and only require water (Sellers suggests Windex). 325 to create or recreate the bevel if necessary, then 600 and 1200. Then strop. Usually start with just the 600. There's a medium extra fine 4000 plate that I want to try. The plates are all good to within a thou; I don't see the point of the lapping plate that's good to half that when it's so much more $$$.

Don't worry about stropping yet. Just get the basics down.

[Anonymous No.1498312]

>>1495532

Get a coarse diamond plate and use that. It will stay flat.

[Anonymous No.1499175]

I mainly use a cheap 400/1000 diamond plate and a DMT 8000 grit.
something to consider is that the high hardness of diamonds make them to cut deeper than regular stones so the 8000 diamond actually produces a less smooth finish than a 3000 grit oilstone.

[Anonymous No.1499327]

>>1496683
Maybe you right, but it helps that I see on video how his planes and chisels cut wood like a butter

[Anonymous No.1499400]

>>1499327
They cut wood. He does it consistently so he gets a good edge. Most people are fucking awful at sharpening, hence the seeing of gains from stropping.

The advantage of using a super high grit stone or lapping film to hone your edge is that you barely, if at all, have to sand the piece after, and the methods in the link above make it take very little time. It also provides you with an assurance that your blade is evenly sharp all across and will reduce tearout in complex grain.

It will also slash through the wood with greater ease.

[Anonymous No.1500265]

>>1495294
fucking went full retard, didn't ya?!
>the more you sharpen it the more you round (dull) it
don't even try to wriggle yerself out of it - you said it. there it is for all to see. quoted and requoted ... full retard in full view
>hold at a bit under a 45 degree angle and swipe, flip over,
oh... it gets worse... 45° flip over 45°... so if my math is right *snicker snicker* that should give you a noice 90° ... ?edge?
please, enlighten us all - what do you use that "bit" for? no, REALLY, I would almost pay to hear that!
>usually i do this about 3 times
during tool's lifetime or there and then? I'm not even sure if I should be asking...
maybe perchance you were viewing /lgbt thread and though about an answer, but somehow mixed it all up and posted it here?

[Anonymous No.1500267]

>>1500265
forgot appropriate pic

[Anonymous No.1500270]

Can I just get an autism free answer. What's the most efficient (cost/knowledge/effort) way to keep my kitchen knife sharp enough to cut vegetables and occasionally meat. Can I just buy like one or two whetstones from amazon in different grits and be like 10% away from perfect?

[Anonymous No.1500284]

>>1500270
Yes, I kept my knives sharp for years with a single 300 grit stone.

I learned by ruining a few dollar store knives that were made out of some sort of hard cheese, and moved onto the good kitchen knives once I could cut a tomato with the shitty ones without cheating by leaving a burr.

If you want low effort, those work sharp machines are pretty nice.

If you want zero effort, just pay someone to sharpen them for you.

[Anonymous No.1500394]

>>1500270
Samurai shark or some equivalent.

[Anonymous No.1501525]

>>1500270
If you want absolute efficiency then you just bulk-buy crappy knives and throw them out when they get dull, nothing is more expensive than your time.

A good balance is having 3 knives so you can rotate them out to get sharpened by a friend/neighbor at cost.

You can get just a combination india stone to maintain your knives as long as you don't drop them and fuck up the edge or let them rust.

Absolute /diy/ efficiency is >>1495143
Since you can use them on ALL your knives and tools excepting serrated knives, which you can get a little tapered diamond rod for. You DO sharpen your shovels don't you, anon?

[Anonymous No.1502263]

>>1494948
I have 400, 1000, 3000, 6000 and 10000. You can do without the 6k and 10k which are meme tier. Unlike >>1494951 says, there is noticeable improvement up until 3000 so I'd suggest 400, 1000 and 3000 as a starter pack, at least that's what I did. The 6k and 10k were a bs purchase.

[Anonymous No.1502682]

Is this a good book?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1561580678

[Anonymous No.1502683]

>>1502682
>paying money to get a book on something very extensively covered on jewtube and blogs and forums

[Anonymous No.1502724]

>>1500270
I keep a double sided DMT 40micron/9micron in the kitchen. All kitchen knives can shave all the time, if gf gets overexcited and runs an edge against a plate or something it's back to shape in seconds.

There's really no point in bringing a kitchen knife any further unless you're a sushi chef. Same for pocket knives. When you get into really fine grits the edge is so delicate it's only useful for very specific work (face shaving, fine woodworking [even there not always], etc).

[Anonymous No.1502739]

>>1502682

Yes that's one of the two great classics.

[Anonymous No.1502763]

>>1494948
>starting a thread over something you should have googled
you're worse than a tripfag

[Anonymous No.1502774]

>couldn't sharpen a knife using a fucking guide
>my mum had no problems freehanding it the first time
Can I still call myself a man?

[Anonymous No.1502793]

>>1502774
how much time did you spend trying?

[Anonymous No.1502808]

>>1502774
>Can I still call myself a man?
Momma's little man.

[Anonymous No.1502816]

>>1502808
You're adorable, anon.
>>1502793
More than she took for that one and all subsequent knives. In all honesty I blame the guide, it was for big knifes and used on a small one had the wrong angle.

[Anonymous No.1502835]

>>1502816
but this was your first time trying sharpening? I wouldn't worry about it, keep trying, no guide, start with a paring knife and work your way up.

[Anonymous No.1502842]

I'm a brainlet so I use one of these because you can't fail with them

[Anonymous No.1502911]

>>1502683
>not data hoarding books on skills and knowledge
notprepper/10

[Anonymous No.1503008]

>>1502911
>books on skills and knowledge
>not having them packed in sealed containers and stored with the 25yr dried food stuffs
and muh guns

[Anonymous No.1503417]

>>1502911
>>1503008
based and redpilled

[Anonymous No.1503580]

What's a cheap stone and strop combo for a literal straight razor

[Anonymous No.1503882]

>>1503580
bottom of a coffee cup for a stone (the unglazed ring).

a piece of fire polished tempered glass for a strop (car door windows).

https://youtu.be/Lm53mCOQTR8?t=407

[Anonymous No.1503990]

>>1502774

Same happened for me and my wife. Shit just happens. Practice eclipses talent given enough time.

[Anonymous No.1504092]

>>1502774

Be proud with your mom lol , with some practice you will learn too .

[Anonymous No.1504118]

>>1503580
The "12k Chinese Waterstone".
It doesn't have a brand name and can be found a lot of places online.

I paid €20 for an 8"x3" one a few years ago.

>>1503882
your a completely idiot

[Anonymous No.1504159]

>>1494948
as long as you have a strop ive been able to get a hair shave using a brick as my stone. Stropping is the most important part of sharpening imo.

[Anonymous No.1504236]

>>1504118
That's worse than a coffee cup

[Anonymous No.1505034]

Just to chime in before anyone ruins a nice razor on a coffee cup or brick- don't do it. I don't know how the Chinese water stones are, but 20 years ago an 8K Jap stone was considered ultra. The old Norton barber hones were a bit coarser but harder. A lot of the natural stones (coticule and such) are coarse compared to modern super fine waterstone but still renowned among razor fags. Razor forums are full of sharpening autism.

You should only have to hone lightly once or twice a year, stropping before each use on a regular leather strop, no abrasives, ever on strop.

[Anonymous No.1505087]

>>1504236
>That's worse than a coffee cup

Incorrect.
It is a great natural stone, albeit hard and slow and well documented online.

[Anonymous No.1505093]

What do you do for stone maintenance, if anything? Faggot on jewtube says soft nagura stones used for cleaning the metal debris are best and you don't really need anything else.

[Anonymous No.1505237]

>>1494948
Most stones have a coarse side and a fine side, should be fine for your purposes.
If you wanted more of a straight razor experience you could look up how to set up a strop(its unfinished leather like suede and you put a compound on it to make it finely abrasive)

[Anonymous No.1506099]

>>1505093
most of the brands that sell stones sell maint stones that you rub against

[Anonymous No.1506100]

>>1506099
>brands
My brand is chinkshit so I guess I should get
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/meme-stone/32895277179.html

[Anonymous No.1506154]

>>1495722
a better knife with a 90 degree spine

[Anonymous No.1506157]

>>1500270
>Can I just get an autism free answer. What's the most efficient (cost/knowledge/effort) way to keep my kitchen knife sharp enough to cut vegetables and occasionally meat.
dollar store water stone. maintain the same angle as you try to slice thin pieces off of the stone

[Anonymous No.1506158]

>>1505093
when my water stones get dished out (i use the shit out of them after i harden and temper a new knife im making) i put sandpaper on a piece of glass and rub until they are flat

[Anonymous No.1506346]

Dear Sharp bois, I need your aid.

I recently got into straight razor shaving, and instead of buying a new one, I asked my dad and he pulled an old one of his out and game it to me along with a strop and this old looking water hone. However, no matter how much I try to sharpen it on the stone, it just doesnt seem to get sharp enough. Could the blade be too old, or something wrong regarding the stone? (Ive tried to follow guides online on how to sharpen it, so I dont believe its from wrong technique.)

[Anonymous No.1506347]

>>1506346

[Anonymous No.1506348]

>>1506347

[Anonymous No.1506418]

>>1506346
How are you using the hone? You want to lay the blade down so the spine is in contact as well as the edge, and stroke edge-first. Flip over (keep the spine in contact and flip over the spine), stroke, flip stroke. If the edge was abused this could take some time. It should be able to slice a hair held in the air before going to the strop.

[Anonymous No.1506433]

>>1500270
Yes. Get a 240/1000 grit whetstone. Then strop on an old pair of jeans. You can get and keep your knives razor sharp for $15 total.

[Anonymous No.1506438]

>>1506418
Ive been doing that. But due to tue age of the blade and lack of use for so long iam guessing it might just need a lot more sharpening. I also dont have any harder grit stones to start with before this one. So for now ill keep hacking away with just this stone.

[Anonymous No.1506536]

>>1506438

From this post it becomes clear that you don't know basic stuff about sharpening (this is not an insult ) and sharpening straight razors is even a bit more complicated than sharpening knives. Also you are asking for advice when there are so many good videos , where you can see how exactly it's done.

Maybe you need to apex the edge on a bit lower grit and then hone it and strop it.

[Anonymous No.1506725]

>>1502842
secinde'd

[Anonymous No.1506745]

>>1500270
Bottom of a coffee cup.

[Anonymous No.1507158]

>>1506745

the guy asked of autism free answer , not turbo-autism one.

[Anonymous No.1507163]

>>1507158
https://www.google.com/search?q=using+a+coffee+cup+to+hone+knives

[Anonymous No.1507245]

>>1507163
wow thanks for the tip buzzfeed

[Anonymous No.1507366]

>>1507163

Dude I sharpen and make knives for living. Believe me , this is not a viable way to sharpen a knife. The surface is so small that at the second pass with the blade, it will be clogged with metal and it will stop removing material. Don't believe to everything you see on the retarded '' life hack'' videos on the internet

[Anonymous No.1507379]

>>1500270
belt sander. not a joke, $300 motorized knife sharpeners are literally purpose-built belt sanders with a guide to hold the knife at roughly the correct angle.
get a cheap belt sander, use a ceramic belt 150-250 grit, mount it to a bench, hold the blade angle right and that'll be enough to cut your vegetables.
people use belt sanders to sharpen chisels too.

[Anonymous No.1507394]

>>1507379

I agree , its one of the fastest and easiest ways. You only have to be careful with the overheating or over grinding.

[Anonymous No.1507535]

>>1507379
Harbor Fright sells a 1x30 sander for $30

You can get a lot of different grits, but personally I find two passes on 180 will bring back a dull but well maintained knife. Then I use a fine India or a Hard Arkansas to finish it off.

[Anonymous No.1509487]

>>1495000
>It is a waste of money to buy stones before you develop technique.
How are you supposed to develop a technique without using a stone.

[Anonymous No.1509843]

>>1509487
>Norton IB8
That's a really basic, high quality, and affordable stone. He's saying get one, get good with it, then go nuts buying all sorts of fancy shit.

[Anonymous No.1510824]

>got my first chink stone, 3000/8000, 400/1000 still in the mail
>restoring terribly dulled kitchen knives takes forever on 3000
>but then I can do that tomato trick where I cut 0.5mm slices
Nice

[Anonymous No.1511354]

>>1494951
I like my 4k/8k water stone.
$20 off amazon and it gives my hobo stabbers a hell of a polish.

i don't deny being autistic