Blacksmith and Carpentry first baby step.

[Anonymous No.1469797]

Can you guys give some information about how to getting started in both these practices.
The basic tools i'd need, books about it, and all you'd think as helpful for a starter.

[Anonymous No.1469884]

>>1469797
For blacksmith you need something to heat your metal
Oxy acetylene torch is ok if you’re broke and don’t have a proper forge
Need a anvil of some sort (railway track or just some heavy block of steel securely mounted to a big wooden block or concrete)
A hammer with decent weight head that you are comfortable working with

[Anonymous No.1469885]

>>1469884
For a carpenter
Youre gonna need a toolbelt of some sort
A claw hammer (preferably one with very curved claw for pulling nails for beginners)
A square (combination or speed square)
A tape measure (25ft or 8M)
Folding ruler of some sort
Pencils
Basic drill of some sort
Lots of nails and scrap timber to practice on
You should learn to cut timber with a handsaw first before using circular saws and such
A steel capped chisel (32mm or 38mm 1/14 or 1/12)
You can find old Irwin Marples chisels for pretty cheap which are made in the UK unlike the newer ones which are made in China
A utility knife of some sort
A chalk line (prerably with gear reduction)
Combination pliers
A nail bar of some sort to pull nails

[Anonymous No.1469907]

>>1469797
Any anons chime in here? I have found 4 of these locally and they look beat all to fuck. I'm worried it may be soft and an aso (anvil shaped object.) However, this would mean i can build or have built a horn for the front and have a hard surface welded to the top right?

At any rate it beats railroad track and was free. I'll be forever grateful for it or hopefully someone else will if i upgrade

[Anonymous No.1469908]

>>1469797
And fuck u captcha

[Anonymous No.1469919]

Ask away op

[Anonymous No.1469933]

>>1469919
Where do you get all those tongs and hammers? ...Antique stores, estate sales/auctions, and/or make them as needed?

[Anonymous No.1469934]

>>1469933
That guy makes his own.

[Anonymous No.1469940]

>>1469934
Which came first, "the hammer & tongs or the blacksmith?"

[Anonymous No.1469968]

>>1469797
Being into both blacksmithing and carpentry, my advice is:
Don't mix blacksmithing and carpentry. They're incompatible. For woodworking everything must be very clean. For blacksmithing, it's dirty as fuck and gets metal chips and grinder dust everywhere. This shit will ruin all of your woodworking projects and tools.

[Anonymous No.1470045]

>>1469919
Bro.....

Not op but how long you been smithing? You do it for a living or a hobby? Post pics of some of your work?

[Anonymous No.1470046]

>>1469933
Kek. I am no professional but i have been hitting up yardsales for old hammers and axes and such. It's a nesr-known metal and i can soon make wtf ever i want. These will be stamoed to give away or trash as i reolace with actual known metal. Or forge into tongs and shit but i have access to affordable 5/8" and 3/4" diameter soft metal rods in 20' lengths for peanuts. Oil field rods. Just be sure and run a gieger over every haul for anything radioactive

[KNIFE MAKING GENERAL /KMG/-Mes(...) No.1470098]

>>1469797
well blacksmithing is a set of different crafts. some people make tools some weapons some others knifes, others specialice in certain knife types

[Anonymous No.1470217]

I'm tinkering with some design ideas and mixing them up, do you guys see anything wrong with the shape of this knife?

[Anonymous No.1470359]

>>1470217
Balance

[Anonymous No.1470470]

>>1470359
Top heavy for powerful chops, would a pronounced distal taper help?

[Anonymous No.1470495]

>>1470217
Nope, get to bangin!

[Anonymous No.1470858]

>>1469919
Got any instructions on how to make a forge like that?

[Anonymous No.1470968]

Before you invest in blacksmithing heavily try a pit forge first. That's how I started. Most blacksmithing groups say shit like avoid harbor freight. Fuck them. Go buy you a three pound hammer and one of their anvils (if you can't find a section of rain track) and practice. Walk train tracks and pick up spikes to practice on (I don't care if it's illegal.) Give it a week. If you feel like you can handle it, upgrade the forge first. I don't care what anyone tells you, it's the most important part. Man started blacksmith with a rock for a hammer and a rock for a anvil. Fire control is where the magic happens.

[Anonymous No.1473005]

>>1469919
what a mess

[Anonymous No.1473369]

>>1470858
Different anon. Try https://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/64-solid-fuel-forges/

Look at the just a box of dirt forged, you will be pleasantly surprised.

Very simple and cost effective... best online blacksmithing site I have stumbled across sofar

[Anonymous No.1473390]

>>1470968
How poor are you? You can buy a 6ft long bar of steel for like, $10 depending on it's diameter. And as a bonus, with it being long, you don't even need tongs. That long bar will last you a long time making small practice pieces. You can make a leaf keychain out of a 3/8th square using only an inch and a half at a time.

[Anonymous No.1473409]

>>1469908
That looks like a ship tie off bit that someone jimmied a square hole into. Depending on what you want to make, though, and how good you are at grinding you can use that for most stuff. If you're aiming towards getting a horn and a hardened surface welded on, might as well buy a used anvil. My anvil is a bunch of stacked chunks of mild steel plate welded into an ASO with a 308 stainless top a buddy made for me. The anvil doesn't have to be perfect. Mine is full of dents but I can usually still get my shit straight and finish up with grinding well. It helps but you can work around it

[Anonymous No.1473415]

>>1473390
Sorry you're having trouble reading. Economic status was never addressed. What I said was don't waste money buying stuff you don't need to see if you're interested in the hobby. I also said practice on spikes because they're free and already "shapely."

[Anonymous No.1473495]

>>1473415
Nah man. At that point, picking up rebar is way more worth it. Spikes still need tongs, which you either need to make first or buy (or buy long pliers etc). Getting that is way easier and less dangerous anyway.

[Anonymous No.1473608]

>>1469885
Anon could you give us a quick rundown on wood measurement?
I asked and a man who does carpentry and he told me that some mills scam newfags

>>1469919
is it possible to start as a blacksmith using a wooden air pump? https://hooktube.com/watch?v=mq_JxJB-8e4
Is this possible or they have a trick?: https://hooktube.com/watch?v=GQWO0QX0_t4
t. poorfag who want to do a lot of stuff and must save money

[Anonymous No.1473677]

>>1473415
first off spikes are not "free" if you get caught picking up even discarded ones along the tracks its a federal crime on top of trespassing. second off railroad spikes make very bad knives, the only practice they offer is shaping, i got like 25 for 5 bucks off ebay. i have myself a harbor freight anvil and harbor freight hammers i dressed with my harbor freight 1x30 belt sander and i do pretty good work, so dont listen to anyone who tells you you 'need' this or that, i started out hammering found metal out on the end of a spud bar for anvil, the core of blacksmithing is improvisation.

>>1469797
Dig a roughly 8 inch wide by 3 inch pit in some dirt in your back yard, not in the woods. then, get you a 2 inch NON GALVANIZED metal pipe thats like 2-3 ft long, stick a thrift store hair dryer in it, put the other end in the center of the pit and dig a trench for it so it isnt just jutting out at some wonky angle, go to walmart and get 'lump charcoal' from the garden center, its like 12 bucks for a 25 lb bag, the oak stuff works real good and with proper airflow WILL burn hot enough to forge weld. For an anvil, you just need something heavy and metal, bricks wont work, they will break. harbor freight sells a 55lb anvil for like 60 bucks.

a few tips to help you get started:
start with a 2.5-3lb hammer, claw hammers are too small and light for really moving the metal. dont get a sledge because the first thing you need to be able to do is control your hammer.


wear long sleeved shirt that wont combust all crazy, too much airflow causes the embers to go up in the air.

do this outside or in a VERY well ventilated area

Eye protection minimum, full face shield is preferred, you will have bits of scale flying off your work.

bronze, any galvanized metal, etc stays out of the forge, they let off poisonous fumes when burned, if you MUST use something galvanized, soak it for a day or 2 in vinegar, it eats the galvanize

[Anonymous No.1473680]

>>1473677
So to start with your dirt pit forge, you wanna get the coals burning first off. you want a nice layer of ash/burning coal before you even start trying to forge anything


once thats done, put some more coal on top of it, and insert your metal into the center of the pile, the ash should help to insulate the metal you are heating.
do not let it run out of fuel, be ready to shovel coal on frequently. you need to keep the heat up, if you have too much airflow you will burn coal faster. my hair dryer forge i not only have it on low, but ive also put in an airflow restrictor to slow it down even more.

[Anonymous No.1473681]

>>1473680
for more info, theres a book you can get from amazon as an ebook called 'the complete bladesmith' by jim hrousalas or something like that, it will give you absolutely every piece of info you need