/3DPG/

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/3DPG/ Anonymous Sun Sep 16 13:05:06 2018 No.1465220 [Reply] [Original]

Old thread: >>1460064

Thread theme: Not fucking up the thread subject. Also, sinking boats.

Need help with prints? Post:
>filament type, bed & extruder temp, print & fan speed, etc

>general info
https://www.3dhubs.com/what-is-3d-printing
https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base
Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker

>open source community
http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Machines
http://forums.reprap.org/
#RepRap @freenode

>buyfag buyers guide
https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide
Any cheap chinkshit kit

>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki (lots of useful stuff)

>why do my prints look like shit, visual troubleshooting
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

>how to calibrate
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints
https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer
http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide
http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/
http://youtu.be/w_Wb0i0-Qvo

>where do I get files to print?
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://www.youmagine.com/
http://www.thingiverse.com/
https://www.myminifactory.com/

>what programs do you make your own files with
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing
http://www.freecadweb.org/
https://www.blender.org/
http://www.openscad.org/
https://www.onshape.com/
http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview

>what kind of filament do I want
Begin with a roll of known brand PLA before moving to more demanding materials.
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/28-material-guide
http://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare

>Hotends
e3d and its clones
>Extruder
BMG or E3D

>Make collage for the next thread
https://www.befunky.com/

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 16 13:20:07 2018 No.1465224 >>1465220 why are my prints undersized

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 16 13:32:32 2018 No.1465231 >>1465224 Calibrate E-steps and filament.

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 16 15:06:46 2018 No.1465302 >>1465224 are your slicer dimensions right? what do you use?

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 16 15:23:55 2018 No.1465317 File: 345 KB, 2048x1536, 41992164_310859939729401_809465128998141952_o[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] pew pew

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 16 15:51:13 2018 No.1465333 >>1465317 how many of these things do you sell each month?

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 16 21:07:02 2018 No.1465523 >>1465220 alright, bog standard ender 3 >1.75mm diameter PLA working on printing >everything seems to work except the bed. back y axis bed is too high the nozzle actually scrapes the bed no actual damage yet, it only prints in a small forward section

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 16 21:11:43 2018 No.1465529 >>1465523 Bed not level? Wrong calibration?

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 16 21:45:11 2018 No.1465559 >>1465529 >Bed not level? yup, it seems close to the dime store levels I used, but the last corner doesn't screw well

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 16 21:59:17 2018 No.1465571 >>1465559 3dp bed leveling doesn't actually mean level with gravity. It means true to the rails or travel Adjust the bed screws to set the height a piece of paper thickness away from the nozzle

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 16 23:01:10 2018 No.1465627 >>1465571 I'm a moron, thank you the spring's still weird, but I think thats it

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 01:13:30 2018 No.1465688 >>1465523 What the fuck is bog standard?

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 03:23:59 2018 No.1465725 >>1465688 Figure of speech

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 05:30:45 2018 No.1465753 I see the buy guide, but those are all quite pricey. What's the poorfags choice? Any preferences on "cheap chinkshit kits"?

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 05:34:40 2018 No.1465755 >>1465753 Ender 3

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 05:36:21 2018 No.1465756 >>1465753 Heard Creality3D Ender-3 3D Printer Economic Ender was pretty good.

Anonymous Mon Sep 17 05:37:14 2018 No.1465757

When i need to print something with bridging and overlap i notice the plastic curles up at the edges when it's still thin, as the printer adds more layers this evens out, but the problem is that in some cases the nozzle catches on the bent up plastic and detaches the object from the bed
wat do?
will increasing pla print temp prevent bending? i am currently printing at 195C

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 05:38:54 2018 No.1465759 >>1465317 What if someone replaces the nerf darts with nails and goes on a school shooting spree? how can you sleep at night knowing you will soon have so much innocent blood on your hands?

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 05:39:00 2018 No.1465760 >>1465757 turn up your part cooling fan and or increase minimum layer time so the plastic has more time to go solid before the next layer comes.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 05:59:53 2018 No.1465765 Where can i find schematics to print my own 3D printer? i can acces a communal one trough uni

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 06:05:24 2018 No.1465767 >>1465765 Literally one of the sites in the >Where do I get filed to print? Section my dude. https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-original-prusa-i3-mk3-57403 is one of them tho.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 06:23:20 2018 No.1465774 >>1465765 I found the I3-rework printed parts on ebay for $20 And used this: >https://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3_Rework_Introduction Still cost about $300 with a wood frame

Anonymous Mon Sep 17 06:32:11 2018 No.1465777

>>1465765
You can't. The part of the printer that is actually printable is just the frame basically, rest of it is electronics, motors, metal, screws and other parts. Only like 15% is actually printable.
And funnily enough if a 3d printer is made from no 3d pritned parts, then it gets praise in reviews for having metal frame and no printed parts in it. This is just hilarious because it completely goes about the whole ideology standing behind the birth of 3d printing.

Anonymous Mon Sep 17 06:41:33 2018 No.1465782

>>1465777
When a company uses 3D printed parts on a production product it's viewed as lazy and or low quality. Reviewers are (correctly) saying that because a company that makes 3D printers should have much easier access to the manufacturing resources to have custom parts made on more permanent processes like injection molding, metal casting, or machining. That's not to mention that, no matter what grandma says, printed parts just don't have the strength and durability of something made with those other processes above. And plastic frames, especially printed ones that might have looser tolerances, tend to wobble, flex, and come loose more leading to lower quality parts.

When anon makes a super cheap & easy DIY printer out of printed parts and scrap electronics it's viewed as innovative, or at least clever. Case in point: reprap.

Anonymous Mon Sep 17 08:03:54 2018 No.1465804
File: 396 KB, 2048x1536, 41916535_311000189715376_8947670630061309952_o[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1465333
>how many of these things do you sell each month?
50 on average
>>1465759
>What if
Who cares.
>how can you sleep at night
Because I work hard, and that makes me tired.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 09:19:30 2018 No.1465829 >>1465804 >Because I work hard yeah pressing PRINT must be exhausting. try digging ditches for a living

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 10:07:54 2018 No.1465844 File: 153 KB, 1400x1050, Ps4Nz5E[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1465829 >be an expendable hunk of meat like me No thanks.

Anonymous Mon Sep 17 11:25:15 2018 No.1465875
File: 17 KB, 213x503, 1382344139654.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1465220
I've ordered a bunch of 3D printed stuff and used a few different printers at Maker spaces, but I've never had or built one of my own.

Most of my prints max out around 200mm on at least one axis.My main interest is to be able to print things without having to wait days for them to ship to me.

Is the Creality3d CR-10 a good printer for this use case?

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 11:53:23 2018 No.1465894 Any decent 3D printer kits that have self-levelling as a feature on them? I'm sick of calibrating my own.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 12:14:47 2018 No.1465909 >>1465804 price?

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 13:24:21 2018 No.1465936 >>1465909 stl? ;)

Anonymous Mon Sep 17 13:35:13 2018 No.1465947

>>1465757
I find more bending and deform from shrinking from printing at higher temps. What is your print speed? Post a picture of your bad prints.

One thing people do is print fan shrouds that blow from all directions instead of a single direction that causes uneven cooling and probably curling.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 13:37:42 2018 No.1465949 >>1465936 nah whats the price of a gun (physical)

Anonymous Mon Sep 17 13:41:48 2018 No.1465951
File: 120 KB, 1215x938, biyk7[1].gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1465909
>>1465949
$59 as a hardware set (print your own parts), $125 as a kit, $150 assembled

https://www.etsy.com/shop/CaptainSlug?section_id=22785644
>>1465936
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2376150/

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 14:06:24 2018 No.1465967 >>1465875 CR-10 300 x 300 x 400mm ender 3 220 x 220 x 250mm If you are absolutely certain you wont print larger than 200mm id go for the ender. They are basically identical machines.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 14:11:44 2018 No.1465972 >>1465951 Is that the manual? What does the "Primary accessory" and "secondary" mean? They are sort of hard to understand.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 14:33:51 2018 No.1465993 Hey frens. Planning on getting into /3dpg/ and I'm planning on getting the Tevo Tornado. Seems like the bed is better than the cr-10. Is the tornado a good setup to start with?

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 14:56:13 2018 No.1466007 >>1465951 cool thanks, that stl goes straight to my "want to print someday but never will have time" folder

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 15:13:30 2018 No.1466016 >>1465875 CR-10 is basically just a bigger ender3 Honestly your probably better to start off with the ender3 because the CR10 is a gigantic machine, that extra 80mm2 adds quite a bit of extra mass on the guides

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 15:20:13 2018 No.1466019 >>1465993 I've never heard of that brand but in that price range it's hard to get a bad printer You may end up printing a bunch if replacement parts but overall they're mostly identical

Anonymous Mon Sep 17 15:24:53 2018 No.1466023
File: 72 KB, 1258x586, il_fullxfull.1648814153_37pq[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1465972
The manual is here.
http://captainslug.com/nerf/Caliburn3DPAssembly8.pdf

That image is the checklist I use when producing the part sets. For the most part I'm printing multiple parts at a time in 4-1/2 hour blocks. So I have those blocks sorted by those color groups. "Accessory" is usually orange.
If you want to futz around with color schemes you can use this doodad.

http://www.captainslug.com/nerf/caliburn/e/

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 15:31:18 2018 No.1466026 >>1465967 >>1466016 Thanks, doing some more research and the Ender 3 looks really good. Is the print size the only difference between the Ender 3, the CR-10, and the Mini?

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 15:42:52 2018 No.1466030 >>1466026 >only difference Pretty much. Same controller, same motion system.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 15:50:49 2018 No.1466039 Im still undecided. Which DLP i get? Wanhao D7, Photon, Micromake?

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 15:54:50 2018 No.1466043 >>1465765 https://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Machines You can pick one and source the rest of the components. Most of the info on the wiki is old by now though

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 15:55:22 2018 No.1466044 File: 3.14 MB, 3024x4032, picase.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] one pi-case coming up

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 15:58:58 2018 No.1466046 >>1466039 Photon is best. D7 is technically the same but lacks the autonomous front panel feature unless it's the new Plus or you add the separate unit for it. Micromake has only half the resolution of the D7 and Photon

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 16:32:58 2018 No.1466069 >>1465759 >worst bait 2018-?

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 16:38:21 2018 No.1466073 >>1466044 Man i've been seeing a lot of concentric fill prints in these threads lately. Did Cura make it default after some version? It always makes boogers and doesn't look that good...

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 16:39:08 2018 No.1466074 >>1466073 I was wondering the same thing, Ive only tried concentric once and the middle of the pattern didnt cool right and peeled off the bed.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 16:56:28 2018 No.1466084 >>1466073 >>1466074 it gets covered and ends up looking decent

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 17:00:36 2018 No.1466089 >>1466073 >>1466074 where would you change this setting in Cura?

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 17:11:22 2018 No.1466098 >>1465759 how can you sleep knowing you are protecting bullies and are hurting innocent woman that are getting raped because they cannot protect them selfs.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 17:40:19 2018 No.1466108 >>1466089 CURA>Shell>Top/Bottom Pattern for all top/bottom layers or Shell>Bottom Pattern Initial Layer for only the first layer. Pattern is called concentric, default is zig zag.

Anonymous Mon Sep 17 18:02:08 2018 No.1466126

>>1466023
i Finally got my Bastardized Caliburn to work.

Sourcing parts in Metric Masterrace land is a bitch. I had to crudely modify and reprint some parts.

I don't even want to tally up how much money i spend overall...

Still, quite a fun exercise.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 18:05:31 2018 No.1466129 is the teflon coated or whatever prusa table worth waiting for?

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 18:07:07 2018 No.1466130 is the teflon or whatever coated prusa worth waiting for over the PEI?

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 18:10:31 2018 No.1466132 >>1466129 >>1466130 Nice double post. Considering its a new selling point feature of the printer Id say so. But on the other hand the one they include when theyre out of the PEI coated one is still flexible, you just use gluestick or something.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 19:46:03 2018 No.1466199 >>1465753 Instone Easier $130 on amazon 110x110mm PLA plug and play

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 17 20:22:31 2018 No.1466207 >>1465753 Ender 3 is the cheapest I would get, Ender 2 maybe but would be pointless unless you dont have the space for the Ender 3s footprint. Anything cheaper like an Anet A8 is a fire hazard.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 18 03:21:20 2018 No.1466373 >>1466207 What do you recomend for printing d&d objects and minis?

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 18 05:27:53 2018 No.1466399 >>1465725 And what is the figure? Also what cr10 to get under 500 freedumb bux?

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 18 09:17:30 2018 No.1466474 >>1465220 What is the best software for virtual prototyping? I need it to simulate mechanisms, movement. Heat transfer and maybe electrics too. Is Autodesk Inventor any good?

Anonymous Tue Sep 18 10:06:50 2018 No.1466487

>>1465753
The anet a8 is seriously underrated on this board as long as you're electrically competent. You need to get a mosfet to make sure the power supply doesn't fuck up your heatbed, but otherwise the newer versions don't have any of the problems the old ones had. Been running mine pretty often for about a month now and it's prints better than my buddy's MakerBot.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 18 10:15:09 2018 No.1466494 >>1466373 Not the guy you asked, I personally use a slightly modified a8 for my minis, it gives a pretty good resolution, doesn't usually need any support material.

Anonymous Tue Sep 18 12:33:16 2018 No.1466556

Is the Creality Ender 3 a solid choice compared to an a8 for a modest starter printer? I like the fact that it has an aluminum frame, and it seems significantly less shitty. I'm fine with it not being perfect, but its impossible to tell which reviews are shills with free samples.

Anonymous Tue Sep 18 12:40:09 2018 No.1466565

>>1466556
Overall it's probably better, but it's mostly up to how much money you want to spend and what you need out of it. If you want to get started in 3D printing for $150 and you aren't too bad with electronics, a8 is a great deal. The ender is better for a novice, though

Anonymous Tue Sep 18 12:50:57 2018 No.1466574

>>1466565
Thanks for your thoughts. I'm decently electronically capable, but $30 extra for a non-acrylic frame seems like a good deal to me. Is the creality less expandable or customizable than the a8? Seems like prusa clones just have endless add ons you can buy.

Anonymous Tue Sep 18 12:55:54 2018 No.1466575

>>1466574
Both are about the same for expandability, but the Ender 3 has much better quality components out of the box than the A8. So the money you'd save from getting an A8 would quickly be spent ""upgrading"" it to not have shitty prints. Plus, while some anons claim the A8 is a lot better now, the Ender 3 still has zero track record of burning houses down. A8, not so much.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 18 13:03:21 2018 No.1466578 >>1466575 Yeah, seems like the ender 3 has succeeded the a8 then. Is the cr10 mini worth that extra $100? Seems almost the same, just bunch of small improvements for %150 of the price.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 18 13:12:57 2018 No.1466582 >>1466487 Do the new a8 have the correct connectors that don’t melt?

Anonymous Tue Sep 18 13:16:38 2018 No.1466585

>>1466487
As long as you get a metal frame A8 and are capable of addressing the quantity of fire issues it has then it's a capable printer.

Personally I don't see why anyone would care to do so at this poi t considering the ender 3 is or can be made to perform better, without all the issues.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 18 13:28:22 2018 No.1466591 >>1466046 Thats what i needed. I came to the same conclusion, seeing that by someone else validated my reasoning. Thanks

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 18 13:34:03 2018 No.1466595 >>1466582 Mine hasn't melted after a month of relatively often use. Probably average 10 hours print time / week. I check it to make sure regularly and there's no sign that it's happening.

Anonymous Tue Sep 18 13:35:23 2018 No.1466597

>>1466585
Yeah, the Ender is definitely a great machine and probably better than the a8, coming from someone who likes my a8. I still tend to suggest looking at it just because the newer ones seem to have solved most of the issues, plus the amount of assembly gives anyone who wants it a very good knowledge base of how it works.

Anonymous Tue Sep 18 13:51:45 2018 No.1466610

For all you enderfags out there, is there a cura profile you use for large, functional prints? Miniatures and high detail low speed stuff seems to work fine, but i cant never get any large prints to work properly, the nozzle likes to hit the print. my last one ended up with poor to zero layer adhesion and the nozzle started crashing into the print

Anonymous Tue Sep 18 15:02:54 2018 No.1466639
File: 71 KB, 845x476, steps.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I got a problem. So i need all axis X Y Z to be thread rod driven, there for i need same steps / mm but same settings in code arduino marlin 1.1 doesnt work. Only Z axis work, but XY are loosing steps usually. What setting could work??

I got this and not working.

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 1000, 1000, 1000, 2562 } //{80 ,80 ,2562,40}

/**

* X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]
*/
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 5, 5, 5, 25 } //{ 300, 300, 5, 25 }

/**
* Default Max Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s
* (Maximum start speed for accelerated moves)
* X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]
*/
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { 50, 50, 50, 10000 } //{ 1000, 1000, 100, 10000 }

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 18 15:17:20 2018 No.1466644 >>1466610 >my last one ended up with poor to zero layer adhesion and the nozzle started crashing into the print Bad print overall or did it start to fail at a certain height?

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 18 15:19:53 2018 No.1466645 Anycubic i3 is bretty guud.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 18 15:44:43 2018 No.1466657 >>1466639 A4988 potentiometers set the same? maybe the jerk setting? >#define DEFAULT_XJERK = 0.3 My Z uses an M5 thread rod, here's the Z settings steps =4000 feed = 10 accel =10 jerk = 0.3 Z is slow as fuck with an M5. What threaded rod you using?

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 18 16:00:31 2018 No.1466662 >>1466657 I will try to use popular screew rod 5mm, in all directions.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 18 16:07:04 2018 No.1466665 >>1466657 I wrote this and works well, also i changed wiring and also this was wrong aparently. THX man.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 18 17:37:06 2018 No.1466710 Is GearBest okay to order from? They have the Ender 3 on sale for $180 right now with free shipping.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 18 18:20:55 2018 No.1466731 >>1466710 I've never had a problem with them, with technology stuff they are pretty much on point.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 18 19:05:58 2018 No.1466758 >>1466710 For a $7 shipping fee BangGood has it with 4 day shipping at the same price.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 18 19:36:52 2018 No.1466770 File: 90 KB, 825x1024, ender 4.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Has anyone heard any feedback about the Creality Ender 4? There are tons of reviews on the 3, but the 4 seems a tempting but unknown option.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 18 20:41:52 2018 No.1466794 What happened to the Monoprice Maker Select 3D Printer v2? It used to be the poor fag printer of choice when it went on sale.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 18 20:52:57 2018 No.1466801 >>1465753 Ender 3 is a good one to go for, but you'll want a new PTFE tube and couplings. The ones that the printer comes with sometimes has problems.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 18 21:14:46 2018 No.1466813 >>1466644 Went for a few layers before fucking up, I was getting some insane stringing as well

Anonymous Tue Sep 18 23:13:20 2018 No.1466870
File: 1.03 MB, 868x866, 3chimeras1printer.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Hey friends. I'm quite new to 3d printing, just got my i3 Mega last weekend and I'm printing some /tg/ models. They're in the 6mm scale, so they're pretty tiny: 2.2 cm by 1.7 cm by 0.9 cm. Here are three prints I've done. Left to right: Chimera 1 (printed on its butt), Chimera 2 (printed on its tracks), Chimera 3 (printed in parts and assembled, also used ironing on the final top surface).

When I printed Chimera 1 on its butt the detail of the hatch was obscured and when I printed Chimera 2 on its tracks there was a great deal of support material under the body and between the tracks that was a bitch-and-a-half to clean. Is there any way to make the support material a bit more sparse or have it lift the model up higher so it is easier to remove?

For Chimera 3, printed in parts and assembled, I experienced some very light curling on one of the tracks. One anon on /tg/ suggested that cool drafts in the room might be causing the curling so I will try to isolate the printer next time. Any further suggestions? I used Tamiya Cement (which is acetone-based) to weld the pieces together. Will this work in the long-term for PLA?

And finally, looking at the right-most print, is there anything else I can do to improve the quality of my tiny toy soldiers and tanks? Would switching my 0.4 mm nozzle for a 0.2 mm nozzle (and perhaps a better extruder) be the best gain in quality?

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 18 23:21:52 2018 No.1466872 >>1466794 Much bigger build plates available on more reliable machines for less.

Anonymous Tue Sep 18 23:24:51 2018 No.1466876

>>1466813
Whats your retraction settings, and how hot are you printing?

You may also look into some guides on the Ender 3, see if one of them explains the concentric wheels on the carriage. The Creality designed printers use a gripping concentric wheel on the right side of the X axis gantry. That wheel cannot be too tight or too loose. You may have to run some test prints to get it right.

Anonymous Tue Sep 18 23:28:00 2018 No.1466879

>>1466870
I doubt pllastic cement is workkng in the short term on PLA, let alone the long; acetone doesn't do much to PLA. Use superglue. As for the nozzle, it would help, assuming you can get the plastic to lay down; you're shooting for a layer height @ 0.1mm or less. Looks like you've got some heavy ghosting going on too; print slower.

Anonymous Tue Sep 18 23:35:42 2018 No.1466885
File: 31 KB, 480x459, The Blood God's Blessings are Many.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1466870
>printing some /tg/ models
You might want to follow their photography guidelines and stick your models in the fridge, it's pretty hard to see past the glare and contrasting shadows.

Cool drafts almost certainly cause curling.
>acetone-based cement
Might be a problem, if you're using PLA it doesn't actually react with the plastic itself. It will work for now, but I can't say for how long. You might want to pin these models too, if you're familar with the method.

>how2quality
Slow printing speed and decrease layer height. Add a cooling fan to your print (not the same thing as wafting a breeze over the printer).

>>1466879
>use super glue
...Which also suffers the same problems, since it's also often acetone-based and brittle.

Looking forward to your results, though, paint 'em up and link to the thread you end up posting in.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 18 23:39:59 2018 No.1466887 >>1466885 ...how do you think superglue works? It's not a solvent.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 18 23:44:15 2018 No.1466889 >>1466887 Some of them have solvents mixed in to aid in bonding specific plastics, though I stay away from them

Anonymous Tue Sep 18 23:44:26 2018 No.1466890

>>1466876
Something like 6mm, forgot the speed. The nozzle keeps oozing while travelling on the same layer.

Yeah i know about the concentric wheels, but i can never seem to get them right. When I move the gantry up and down by hand, there are certain points where it locks up. Too loose and the right side of the gantry has too much play

Anonymous Tue Sep 18 23:54:10 2018 No.1466891

>>1466879
>>1466885
Thanks for the ideas. I'm already printing at 20 mm/s but my acceleration is, as it turns out, comparatively quite high at 1800 mm/s. Some quick googling says that lowering that may help, and I'll also try going from 20 mm/s to some slower print speed to see if that helps further as well. I'm also printing at 0.1 mm, but I'll see how if going down to 0.08 mm or lower is possible.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 19 03:02:52 2018 No.1466945 >>1465947 cooling shouldn't be a problem i've two dedicated cooling fans with side shrouds so the blowing area is 180 degrees

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 19 04:38:25 2018 No.1466961 can a sintratec sinter metal powder safely if i make a vacuum seal, pump out all the air, and use a more powerful laser?

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 19 07:49:05 2018 No.1467000 File: 1.17 MB, 4160x3120, IMG_20180919_123144.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] My first ever print! After waiting 3 weeks for the printer, I guess I'll wait some more as the feeder motor went silent after 15 layers. Good times

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 19 13:15:47 2018 No.1467093 i dont know what to print boys, is there a /3dp/ list of shit to print, i dont want thingyverse normie things

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 19 13:27:04 2018 No.1467098 >>1467093 Design your own shit. Nothing I have printed in 6 years would be of use for anyone else.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 19 13:51:56 2018 No.1467115 File: 1.98 MB, 4128x2322, 20180919_204935.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Can someone tell me whytf my walls aren't touching? This is cura with a 0.4mm nozzle.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 19 13:54:11 2018 No.1467119 >>1467115 Looks like underextrusion or miscalibration of steppers to me

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 19 14:01:39 2018 No.1467124 >>1466961 >an a sintratec sinter metal powder safely no

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 19 14:03:31 2018 No.1467126 >>1467119 Stepper extrudes exactly the amount of filament that reads on the screen of the printer, i don't see how it could be underextruding, the gear doesn't skip, this is brand name filament so the size is consistent and all that.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 19 14:04:33 2018 No.1467128 >>1467000 check if it's plugged in properly

Anonymous Wed Sep 19 14:21:22 2018 No.1467140
File: 1.10 MB, 1280x720, VID_20180918_200832.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1466890
Well, these are my ender 3 settings for generic prints, with the infill being changed depending on what I'm printing. If this doesn't work then you have a hardware problem. Its for PLA.
https://my.mixtape.moe/cwghsa.curaprofile
Best to rename it to something legible as mixtape renames to random letters.
Check your z screw is the same distance from the frame at the bottom and the top too, since I got mine squared up my gantry can almost get to the bottom on its own with a light shove (or a bottle of meths on it)

Anonymous Wed Sep 19 14:21:56 2018 No.1467142

>>1466961
I doubt it very much.
Metal powder absorbs different wavelengths than polymer powders.
Also you need a lot more heat for melting 1000somethingC for steels vs 100somethingC for polymers.
Metal powder conducts better than polymer powders so you would need more energy density (different wavelength + more powa)
Pumping a vacuum in a highly porous (powder) mass is impossible. Inert gases are a way to go, N for steel, Ar for aluminium and titanium. You only need it where the melting happens so no need to worry about getting inert between the powder particles itself.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 19 15:23:00 2018 No.1467179 File: 1.19 MB, 300x396, 1469244028918.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >mfw I finally fixed my delta printer that was broken for months.

Anonymous Wed Sep 19 15:47:57 2018 No.1467192
File: 869 KB, 2340x4160, IMG_20180919_214351.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Sup guys, my Monoprice Mini v2 bed got totally warped so I tore it out and put on a 2mm glass surface. It works good but I can't be arsed to put on glue stick every time, so I'm trying to come up with a profile to make the first layer stick for good.

>first layer print speed slowed to 10mm/s
>z-hop to 0.3mm

I have my printer at work so I haven't tried those yet. The rest of the parameters are the default from cura, and the bed is perfectly leveled. Should I change anything else?

Pic related, the bottom layer of the kobayashi cube I printed on glass. Shit looks shiny as fuck. This was with glue stick though.

Anonymous Wed Sep 19 15:49:52 2018 No.1467193

>>1467115
did some research and found this:
>Small nozzle. Rumor has it some of the .4mm nozzles are closer to .35mm. Not sure if this is actually true. I'm a bit skeptical but try a .6mm nozzle maybe.
Could it be? I'll give it a try with the nozzle setting dialed down to .35mm

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 19 16:00:38 2018 No.1467202 >>1467192 Ive seen a bunch of people with CR-10s or Prusa clones just print on bare glass but setting the bed temperature to 60-70.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 19 16:33:06 2018 No.1467212 >>1467193 .35mm was not enough, .3mm seems pretty good, maybe i have somehow ended up with a .3mm nozzle

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 19 16:56:52 2018 No.1467228 >>1467212 What printer? I know Creality throws a replacement .4 and a .3 in with their printers.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 19 17:04:36 2018 No.1467232 >>1467228 the nozzles were ordered from aliexpress, it is possible that i myself have erred, but i'm not sure if that's the case here

Anonymous Wed Sep 19 17:12:55 2018 No.1467240

>>1467232
Could be a mixup, could be a poor nozzle.

I would take it off and look at the opening, make sure you dont have a partial clog from burnt filament or something. If it works then whatever I guess, .3 should be capable of a little better detail than .4. Ive never used one though so I couldnt say if any other settings will need to be tuned.

Anonymous Wed Sep 19 17:42:58 2018 No.1467259

>>1467115
i have had the same issue. my fix was to set the perimeter speed all the same and slower (to 80m/s). but it also looks like your top and bottom layers are not filling in, try checking the extrusion and check nozzle diameter. measure the extruded filament with from the extrusion test.

Anonymous Wed Sep 19 18:03:08 2018 No.1467272

>>1467192
Raising the bed slightly might help with adhesion and close the gaps on the bottom layer.

My experience is limited to printing on blue tape though.
Too high = lines in bottom layer + poor adhesion
Too low = Can't get it off without damaging the tape

A good way to check the clearance is to put a priming swipe (at least that's what I call it) at the beginning of the print, then check it's thickness with calipers. You could also check the thickness of a single layer skirt to see if it matches the setting for the bottom layer height.

Anonymous Wed Sep 19 18:57:10 2018 No.1467315
File: 2.16 MB, 4032x2268, 1537397716726240783627.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Been struggling with this for months and have only managed to minimize it, it's bullshit. There are 16 holes just like this on this one part and this is the only 1 doing it, even the one 5mm away is fine.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 19 19:05:24 2018 No.1467325 >>1465951 >https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2376150/ Is this your personal shop? i see you in every thread, you designed all this?

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 19 21:12:25 2018 No.1467429 >>1467315 Just occurred to me that the Compensate Wall Overlap setting in CURA might be doing this since all the holes is happening on happen to be touching other walls. Gonna find out next print.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 19 23:29:42 2018 No.1467484 File: 148 KB, 800x600, rs_30[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1467325 >Is this your personal shop? Yes >you designed all this? Yes. I made 6 machined version before deciding to try and convert the design over to 3d-printing.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 00:20:22 2018 No.1467511 I thought fusion 360 was free?

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 00:22:44 2018 No.1467512 File: 4.00 MB, 4032x3024, 20180919_205939.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] r8 my a8 m8

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 00:25:05 2018 No.1467515 >>1467511 If you have a student email.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 00:26:11 2018 No.1467516 >>1467512 Did you replace the PSU and damn near every wire/connector in the entire thing? If not its still always fire/10.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 00:32:15 2018 No.1467519 >>1467512 housefire/10

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 00:37:58 2018 No.1467520 >>1467000 >>1467128 The driver for the extruder motor seems to be the culprit. Weird enough, I got it running again but it failed around the same spot again. Now it is completely dead.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 00:58:53 2018 No.1467528 >>1467515 Oy vey

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 01:00:34 2018 No.1467529 >>1467528 Sign up for the cheapest class you can find at your local community college, perhaps a CAD class. Inventor and 360 are some of the best 3D modelling software out there, cant expect it to be free to anyone.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 01:25:59 2018 No.1467532 >>1467511 There are free licenses for hobbyists and small companies below 100k revenue.

Anonymous Thu Sep 20 01:28:27 2018 No.1467533

>>1467511
>>1467515
>>1467529
No no, F360 does have a free non-student license. They call it educational / startup / enthusiast interchangeably. The .edu email isn't required, you just have to jump through some hoops after you install the trial version:
https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/troubleshooting/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/How-to-activate-start-up-or-educational-licensing-for-Fusion-360.html

>>1467512
Obligatory house fire reference

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 04:51:58 2018 No.1467571 >>1467533 Checked and thank you anonkun.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 07:01:41 2018 No.1467606 >>1466023 Oh wew that's a really cool 3D viewer/customizer

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 07:37:30 2018 No.1467624 >>1467520 please check very thoroughly that it is plugged in, sometimes the wires aren't securely held in the plastic plug and do not engage even if it is in all the way.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 07:38:35 2018 No.1467625 New to 3dp. I have a good bit of experience working with Autodesk Inventor. Can I still used that or do I need to switch to fusion 360 like everyone is saying?

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 07:42:00 2018 No.1467626 lads, thinking about printing a small test gun for 22lr, basically just the barrel, some sort of breech mechanism and striker, how thick ought i make the chamber walls? I'm making it out of PLA.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 07:42:19 2018 No.1467629 >>1465755 >>1465756 >>1466207 >>1466801 4 people praising "Ender 3", any other good budget shitters or is Ender 3 the best in the budget range?

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 07:45:15 2018 No.1467631 >>1467629 Tarantula?

Anonymous Thu Sep 20 08:02:33 2018 No.1467639

>>1467625
Hell no, if you have access to Inventor it's a far better tool and F360. I still use Inventor for most CAD stuff, it's Fusions big brother. Only step is to export your parts to stl to open in your slicer when ready to print the part, or if you're using Cura, get the plugin that lets it open .ipt files.
Also, the UI and hotkeys that Fusion uses are backwards dogshit compared to Inventor, so be prepared for some mindfuck if / when you try to switch.

>>1467626
>meme guns
Pls go.
Otherwise, ask /k/ I think they had a 3D printed thread a while back. Wise note though: the barrel isn't going to be something you want to print, and PLA isn't near safe enough for any part of the weapon. You need something much stronger like polycarb or at least PETG.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 08:14:04 2018 No.1467643 >>1467529 It literally is free though, and you do not need a CAD class to be able to become proficient at using Fusion 360

Anonymous Thu Sep 20 08:19:18 2018 No.1467645

>>1467639
Nah dude PLA is fine, this shit is strong as fuck with the right layer orientation and the gun is not meant to be safe either, gonna fire a few rounds at most, just curious if i could do it, hell, it's most likely illegal here as well but who cares really.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 08:35:05 2018 No.1467649 >>1467629 Ender 3 is just the shill of this year, like the Anet A8 was last year.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 08:36:58 2018 No.1467652 >>1467643 When you have to make an account and they track your usage, it's not really free

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 08:40:36 2018 No.1467660 >>1467652 >track your usage that doesn't really cost me anything, probably

Anonymous Thu Sep 20 09:07:01 2018 No.1467675
File: 473 KB, 813x580, 434384cdac83cdd654565bbd42fa36e5.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Alright lads, here's the complete design without the striker assembly, thinking of just putting a nail through the frame which i will hit with a hammer or something like that. The small dark part is the breech wedge or whatever and the rest is the barrel and so on. Thoughts?

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 09:08:04 2018 No.1467676 >>1467675 To clarify this is the 22lr gun i mentioned.

Anonymous Thu Sep 20 13:35:32 2018 No.1467783

>>1467626
>printing a small test gun
>barrel
>breech mechanism
>striker
Those are pretty much all the parts you AREN'T supposed to print, mate. The barrel won't take the forces well, the striker isn't strong enough, and the breech mechanism will probably tear apart as well.

Anonymous Thu Sep 20 13:38:25 2018 No.1467785

>>1467652
>make your account and track your usage
It fucking sucks that SaaS is where everybody's going these days, but it still is free in the sense that "you don't pay money to use the product". You want something that works offline and doesn't track what you do? Use Blender or FreeCAD/openSCAD. There's no reason you can't make a unique email you use for nothing else except Fusion 360, and I hardly think they're interested in your IP (not address).

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 13:47:50 2018 No.1467788 File: 168 KB, 939x458, 5ed53a58d6125c7e6a083592c1c91f68.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1467783 This is the design so far, i'll use a 2mm thick nail as the striker, i'll tie this thing down and hit the nail with a hammer.

Anonymous Thu Sep 20 14:15:27 2018 No.1467795
File: 66 KB, 963x616, Handy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1467788
Seriously, dude, please research the material properties before you do something like this, PLA really isn't strong enough and making the barrel close to the same thickness as it would be if it was made of metal (or even double, or triple) WILL explode in your hands. At least go to /k/ and post your idea there, they'll tell you what you should and shouldn't do.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 14:16:16 2018 No.1467796 >>1467626 >PLA Hello mr aussie police man. Use ABS for firearms, theyre safe aslong as theyre designed well. Check out FOSSCAD and download their megapack, tons of functional firearm and firearm accessory files ready for you to print.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 14:18:00 2018 No.1467797 >>1467645 Strong but VERY brittle. Use ABS.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 14:41:11 2018 No.1467805 Does anyone here make a lot of minis and have a specific filament they prefer? I'm planning to try to print some for my D&D players but I wasn't sure if any specific filament takes paint better than another.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 14:49:08 2018 No.1467808 >>1467805 Of you want to paint them, ive had the best restults with PETG...

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 14:53:58 2018 No.1467811 File: 84 KB, 1200x1200, Painters Touch.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1467805 PLA sprayed with a coat of this takes paint flawlessly. Variety of colours to choose from, as well.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 15:42:02 2018 No.1467828 Any of you print on glass? I just got a piece for my ender and gonna try printing directly to it for shits and giggles but does anyone have suggestions on what they do to make it stick well? I have a sandblaster I was thinking about frosting it.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 15:45:39 2018 No.1467830 File: 14 KB, 350x350, Elmer.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1467828 1/4-1/8 elmer's glue : water ratio, use clean razor to spread, let dry. Print. Lasts for 25+ prints or until you touch it with greasy fingers.

Anonymous Thu Sep 20 15:47:48 2018 No.1467833

>>1467828
Use glue stick. Apply and remove it on demand.
>I have a sandblaster I was thinking about frosting it.
Dont do this, two things can happen, it can get stuck too well on the surface or mirco cracks combined with periodically heating up and down the glas can make it shatter or produce larger cracks.

Anonymous Thu Sep 20 15:57:49 2018 No.1467838
File: 8 KB, 400x400, Wiper-Squeegee-Window-Cleaner-Shower-Silicone-Drying-Clean-_1[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1467828

I print almost exclusively with PLA on smooth glass.

The only two tips you need to know is that the bed HAS to be level to within a few hundredths of a mm, and that glass is much less tolerant of contaminants. Personally, I wouldn't frost it, since it makes it more difficult to clean thoroughly.

Pic related is my secret weapon for printing on glass. Wipe down with alcohol, dry it, then wipe it down one more time and use the squeegee. I suggest getting a silicone one; many of the cheaper rubber ones will be damaged by alcohol and slowly dissolve. As a smaller note, if you're just stacking the glass on top of your existing bed, you'll want to turn the bed temp up 5-10°, and you'll want to let it preheat for a few minutes.

As long as you keep it clean, glass is great. Excellent adhesion when hot, but prints pop themselves off when it cools. Can't speak from experience for anything other than PLA (I haven't used any of my PETG since I got it, which I hear likes to try and adhere permanently), but, for that much at least, I see little reason to use anything else.

Anonymous Thu Sep 20 16:00:54 2018 No.1467841
File: 10 KB, 400x400, Car-Antislip-Wiper-Water-Blade-Non-Scratch-Silicone-Squeegee-_1[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1467838

As an aside, do NOT buy this kind of squeegee. You can see that little extra flange at the bottom. It's there because the blade is actually just repurposed silicone door sweep.

It sucks as a squeegee.

Anonymous Thu Sep 20 16:40:53 2018 No.1467862

>>1467828
I have glass on my ender too, just keep it really clean and get it to around 65c, as the other anon said, let it sit heated for a bit so the glass gets to the same temp as the bed underneath. You'll hear the prints unstick themselves as the bed cools down to about 45c.

Anonymous Thu Sep 20 16:48:18 2018 No.1467866
File: 47 KB, 600x414, 1488248530337.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1467828
I print on glass exclusively; the only thing you need to do is calibrate the printer. Like the other anon said, it needs to be within 0.1mm and level.
Scratching the glass wouldn't help that much and would mess up the bottom surface of your prints.

Anonymous Thu Sep 20 17:09:02 2018 No.1467881
File: 2.67 MB, 4128x2322, 20180921_000556.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I posted my 3d printer plans a few threads ago and finally there is some progress. The heatbed mount/frame/whatever is complete. Now all that's left is to print the motor mounts and the x axis mount. I suppose the printer will be ready in a few weeks.

Anonymous Thu Sep 20 17:42:13 2018 No.1467901

>>1467785
It's more than just IP
>We collect device-specific information, like unique device identifiers, operating system, and the type of device you use.
>We collect information about how you use our applications. This includes your product ID, license information, which applications you use and for how long, your city and country from your IP address, and information about your browser.
>Autodesk uses cookies and related technologies, such as pixels and beacons (“Cookies”) to collect and store information when you visit our websites and use our applications.
>We also use Autodesk Analytics programs and third-party analytics tools, such as Google Analytics, to help us understand how you use our website and applications.
>we combine your personal data, as described above, with information from public sources and other companies
>using automated systems to analyze your data using machine learning and advanced analytics to improve our applications
>We store your personal data and content on our servers, and the servers of our service providers.
>Because we and our service providers maintain servers in global locations, your personal data may be transferred across national borders and stored outside of the United States.
>We work with one or more advertising networks, which are our Ad Partners, who use Cookies or other technologies to collect information in order to serve you ads and help us track results. Such information may include the websites you visit, the mobile apps you use, the preferences you may provide us as your application provider, your IP address, your device ID, and information about your browser.(You can opt out if you keep the cookie)
https://www.autodesk.com/company/legal-notices-trademarks/privacy-statement

TL;DR
>Tracking across the web including using Google Analytics
>Your data may be stored outside the US
>AI to analyze your data
>default opt-in Ad-partners
You are the product

Sorry for the text wall

Anonymous Thu Sep 20 18:25:59 2018 No.1467935

>>1467828
I use DIMAFIX at 60C for PLA and 80C for PETG on my CR-10S with a piece of mirror tile (I ripped a chunk out of a borosilicate bed doing very large PETG prints, no issues with the mirror over the same timescale doing similar prints).

To level, I use 0.04, 0.06 and 0.08mm feeler gauges. Each corner is adjusted until the .04 passes under without touching, the .06 rubs the nozzle (still slides through but springs slightly as it exits) and the .08 won't go under. This give nice strong adhesion without elephant footing.

Unrelated to your question: I currently have the CR-10S and a FFCP. Does anyone have suggestions for a smaller, more delicate printer for doing miniatures without resorting to resins?

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 18:58:10 2018 No.1467952 >>1467901 Any good free cad programs that arent turbo cunts? And that arent browser ones, i need to do things offline most of the time.

Anonymous Thu Sep 20 19:23:51 2018 No.1467960

>>1467881
You the guy that wanted to mount all the Z and X gantry stuff on one vertical bar?
Have fun with your torsion.

>>1467901
Dude. You could've copied the EULA for any proprietary software that connects to the internet and it would read nearly the same. Also, half of that isn't even related to F360, it's about analytics shit on their website.
Of course they're going to mine every little bit of your usage statistics and sell it to advertisers. Everyone does that these days.

I'm super fucking pro-privacy, but you're trying to make things look like something they're not, and that doesn't help pro-privacy people at all. They aren't out to get anyone (in this case).

Don't use Fusion to design sensitive stuff, or do, they probably wont care or steal any of it. The only difference is they're selling your body and soul and whatever else they can for a quick buck. If you're really bothered just pirate Inventor, it's a better program anyway.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 20:27:37 2018 No.1467991 >>1467960 What would qualify as "sensitive stuff"?

Anonymous Thu Sep 20 20:39:32 2018 No.1467997
File: 82 KB, 516x348, blender anvil.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1467952
I use openScad and Blender, both open source
I've modeled internal and external screw threads on both

openScad is text using numbers and similar to programming. Cool thing about it is you can define variables to model from then just change the number to modify the model.
>sizeOfHole = 4;
>thickness =2;
>cylinder(h=thickness, d=sizeOfHole);
Here's the cheat sheet
>https://www.openscad.org/cheatsheet/index.html
Down side is it's programming, if you don't like that, and making things asthetically good can be difficult.

Blender is great and has an artistic feel to it, but a bit of a learning curve. Once you've learned the basic keyboard shortcuts, it's quick and kinda fun.
You can also use Python programming to model if you want.
I learned from this tutorial. He's an artist and doesn't cover dimentional accuracy, but you can make accurate parts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yi87Dap_WOc
>pic related
Downside is it does more than modeling, like physics, textures, animations, ect,
so the menus & stuff can be a bit overwhelming like GIMP. Keyboard shortcuts for common things helps a lot.

>>1467960
>proprietary software that connects to the internet
That's kinda the point. Just because "everyone does it" doesn't make it right. It's that kind of perspective that has allowed things to get so bad
>trying to make things look like something they're not
Other than the (you can opt out) and TL;DR, those are direct quotes copied from their privacy policy

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 21:10:29 2018 No.1468012 Anyone use changeatZ to shutoff their bed heat after the first few layers? I mean once the base layer sticks the heated bed basically does nothing but waste energy.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 21:14:10 2018 No.1468014 >>1468012 I keep the heat bed on for about 10mm for large prints to help with warping.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 21:51:49 2018 No.1468034 Retard from a few threads back here, finally got freecad to install. Now i can drive my self even more to the edge of sanity trying to lern it. Have a tonne of ideas in my head all flushed out, just not final measurements.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 21:55:03 2018 No.1468036 >>1468034 Protip, if you live in burger like me set the units in your CAD software to mm, since its what the slicers go off of it helped me quite a bit.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 22:07:58 2018 No.1468044 >>1468036 Protip, just pirate a real cad package that deals in real units like solidworks and export your files as STL in the same program.

Anonymous Thu Sep 20 22:09:16 2018 No.1468046

>>1468036
Thanks, i assumed it was already in metric. I couldve sworn i read somewhere that the cad programs were in metric, something about one grid square equalling one mm on the workbench.
About how long would you say it took you to get the hang of it to feel confident while being competent?

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 22:10:20 2018 No.1468048 >>1468044 I dont know how to pirate or torrent.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 22:47:07 2018 No.1468078 File: 87 KB, 1574x856, a fun day.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1468048 Well that's too bad, have fun printing vases and other useless shit.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 23:10:24 2018 No.1468092 >>1468078 Already mentioned how to get Fusion 360 for free earlier in the thread. Not sure what kinda shade youre trying to throw either, solidworks defaults to inches.

Anonymous Thu Sep 20 23:21:20 2018 No.1468097

>>1468092
Solidworks tells you what the units are when you go to add dimension constraints to a sketch/ also you can enter the dimensions in any unit by simply typing in, mm, ft etc.

Mainly hating on autodesk because of their retarded interfaces and workflow.

Anonymous Thu Sep 20 23:24:29 2018 No.1468099

>>1468097
Autodesk asks you what units you want to set it to the first time you sign in.

I actually took a class a while back that used solidworks and frankly I have no idea what youre talking about. Even Fusion 360 is way more streamlined. You want to make a sphere in solidworks you have to draw a half circle and rotate it, autodesk has a sphere function that just asks what you want the radius to be.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 20 23:31:43 2018 No.1468104 >>1468078 What do you mean?

Anonymous Fri Sep 21 00:04:12 2018 No.1468124

>>1468044
>real units
Dude, only 3 countries still use imperial, everybody else has switched over to metric for most things. And don't pull that shit about "Well THOSE countries didn't put a MAN on the MOON", that's completely irrelevant as it always is

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 21 00:07:09 2018 No.1468127 >>1468124 Pretty sure he wasnt saying imperial was the real units. >>1468104 He doesnt know, freecad exports to STL and OBJ just fine.

Anonymous Fri Sep 21 00:24:04 2018 No.1468134

Begun printing Petg to make some parts to referb a old i3 clone, got 3/4 the way through a print before the whole thing just decided to seperate from the plate, should I go to blue tape? Or jack up the temp and raise the base futher? Was printing on a Coccon Create at a plate temp of 80c

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 21 00:25:46 2018 No.1468136 >>1468078 >he doesn't use freeCAD

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 21 00:49:35 2018 No.1468144 >>1467960 There are no torsion issues.

Anonymous Fri Sep 21 03:26:42 2018 No.1468180

>>1468099
How many products are there in real life where you need to make a sphere? Yes it takes an extra step in solidworks but gives you the versatility of making any kind of revolved shape.

Autodesk has caught up I'll give you that, I learned solidworks back in the days of early inventor and autocad mechanical. Shit was retarded back then.

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 21 03:38:08 2018 No.1468182 >>1468099 >You want to make a sphere Why do you want to make spheres tho, that's fucking retarded anon.

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 21 04:46:49 2018 No.1468209 >>1468180 >gives you the versatility of making any kind of revolved shape I'm kind of a third non-involved party here but AFAIK F360 also lets you do that >>1468182 Keys for 3D printed / machined masters of silicon molds, maybe

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 21 05:42:53 2018 No.1468230 I mean honestly i can't really remember the last time i made a sphere so having to just revolve it fine by me but i guess having an actual sphere making tool doesn't hurt.

Anonymous Fri Sep 21 05:44:42 2018 No.1468231

>>1468209
Point is that it's not something made frequently enough to have a dedicated function, just like how there are no dedicated functions for a cylinder, box, pyramid etc, these are things you find in artistic polygonal modeling packages like 3ds max.

You use precision ground dowel pins and such as locators.

Anonymous Fri Sep 21 05:49:50 2018 No.1468235

>>1468231
I was basically just getting at the fact that Fusion and Inventor can do anything Solidworks can, then some at this point.

I think whether you use those functions depends on how you choose to use the program though. Some people model by removing from a simple object and some people model by adding new sketches and features to what you already have.

Some do both.

When I get down to it its just that Autodesk has the ability, and I started with Autodesk, it annoys me that Solidworks doesnt.

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 21 10:47:30 2018 No.1468332 >>1468235 >Some people model by removing from a simple object uhhh no

Anonymous Fri Sep 21 14:24:42 2018 No.1468479

I like both Solidworks and the Autodesk suite. Both are still equally prevalent today because each is better suited to different use cases.

Btw, you should never choose what unit you CAD with based on what your slicer uses; pick the unit that suits your application most. Every modern CAD software should have the ability to convert the part to mm or in when you export it to STL.
Imperial won't be disappearing anytime soon because the US (you know the one, that major first world country?) still uses it. And it's not as simple as getting us to switch, as most of our shit is still designed in imperial (you know, like factory equipment that will still be in use and require repair, parts 20-30 years from now?). Also, us folks in the US are taught both metric and imperial in school, so which is better? Knowing both and being able to switch at will, or whining like a child every time you encounter an inch or a mile?

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 21 15:25:05 2018 No.1468501 >>1468479 Problem is, AFAIK Europeans aren't being taught imperial, which makes it difficult when it's suddenly introduced in the workplace

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 21 16:19:32 2018 No.1468536 >>1468332 Umm yes? You make a pyramid by subtracting from a cube.

Anonymous Fri Sep 21 16:23:46 2018 No.1468538

>>1468479
>>1468501
lmao you dumb mutts are talking like metric and imperial were on the same level or something.
The only reason why imperial is still in use today is because it is too bothersome to change, metric beats imperial any day of the year, any weather, night or day.

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 21 16:25:44 2018 No.1468539 File: 15 KB, 374x250, gets_me_everytime.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1468538 >europoors with a superiority complex over anything

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 21 16:28:05 2018 No.1468543 >>1467811 amazing, thanks. Does the color of the PLA tend to affect much?

Anonymous Fri Sep 21 16:32:17 2018 No.1468549

>>1468539
In a society that uses the decimal system there is absolutely no excuse for not having the conversion of units be done by multiplying or dividing by ten. Going from cm to mm is simple, just multiply by ten. Going from yard to foot you have to multiply by three and then from foot to inch by twelve, it's not even bloody consistent with itself.

Anonymous Fri Sep 21 16:50:20 2018 No.1468560

>>1468543
No, primers are (generally) specifically made to mask the underlying colour. That said, the colour of the *primer* will have a huge effect on the paint unless you have a thick coat or a lot of layers. I'll try to find a reference picture, will post here when I find it.

Anonymous Fri Sep 21 16:54:34 2018 No.1468565

>>1468501
Bingo
>>1468538
>>1468539
Nice ad hominem, buds

>>1468549
Whenever I design an imperial part I only ever work in inches and decimal inches; tenths, mils, thou—same thing machinists do. None of this fractions or converting from feet and yards bullshit. I think that's the main thing metric people don't get; other than fields where where both large and small scales are used (construction, civil engineering), most stuff can simply be done in inches and mm without ever converting up to ft, meters, km or miles.

Also, if the whole decimal conversion thing is so great, why are VESA mounts measured in hundreds of mm, rather than tens of CM?

>>1468543
Seconding this question. Is it worth buying specific colors of PLA if I'm going to sand, prime, and paint anyway? Would love to only ever buy black and white for that sort of thing.

Anonymous Fri Sep 21 16:56:44 2018 No.1468569
File: 970 KB, 2000x2500, Behelit1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1468543
These were both printed and coated with grey primer which was roughly the color of the fur on the second image - as long as you have strong enough pigments (DO NOT use .99c bottles from Wal-mart it WILL look bad, speaking from experience) you can do pretty much anything you want.

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 21 16:57:52 2018 No.1468571 File: 780 KB, 2000x2500, Totoro.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1468569

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 21 16:58:57 2018 No.1468574 File: 3.47 MB, 3024x4032, Chalky titan.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1468569 Here's a good example of what happens when you use cheap paint - this is a $200 model, guess the guy had a lot of money to burn

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 21 17:02:15 2018 No.1468575 >>1468574 Damn, that looks like trash Thanks for the tips. Prefer any specific brands of primer? Krylon and Rustoleum OK?

Anonymous Fri Sep 21 17:07:48 2018 No.1468578
File: 58 KB, 1000x486, Citadel.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1468575
I use Rust-Oleum exclusively; not because it's "the best" but because it's cheap and good enough that I don't see a reason to try anything else. The 2x cans are only sold at Home Depot (not Lowe's) for whatever reason, though. Pic in >>1467811 is what I have, but in black and gray. I've heard good things about Krylon but never tried it myself.

For paints, Citadel paints (by Games Workshop) are pretty much the gold standard for good reason, and Vallejo is a slightly cheaper (and better bottle) alternative. If you have any further questions, I'd be glad to try and answer or direct you to where you could get detailed help.

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 21 21:01:13 2018 No.1468682 >>1468538 >metric I can only into tens and fractions hurt my brain

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 21 21:28:13 2018 No.1468693 Are there any 3D print files which would be profitable to make and sell aside from nerf? How do you market your stuff?

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 21 21:38:01 2018 No.1468694 >>1468693 I would assume dnd shit on etsy?

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 21 22:38:53 2018 No.1468709 File: 63 KB, 500x375, questionmark[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] What to print next? First reply and I'll print it, refer a thingiverse model or something. Will post pic. Must be <280x280x280mm.

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 21 22:58:35 2018 No.1468720 >>1468709 squatplug

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 21 23:05:41 2018 No.1468724 File: 217 KB, 1105x924, Untitled-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1468720

>>	Anonymous Sat Sep 22 01:12:05 2018 No.1468747 File: 2.57 MB, 382x554, 1537566342732.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1468709 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1498267

>>	Anonymous Sat Sep 22 01:21:30 2018 No.1468749 >>1468747 Kek, a ueterus last thread now this. >we will 3d print a woman piece by piece

>>	Anonymous Sat Sep 22 04:37:14 2018 No.1468787 >>1468709 A solid 280x280x280 block with a text "Block of Wisdom"

>>	Anonymous Sat Sep 22 04:52:55 2018 No.1468792 Anet e12 thoughts?

>>	Anonymous Sat Sep 22 05:33:11 2018 No.1468800 Tevo tornado?

>>	Anonymous Sat Sep 22 05:36:09 2018 No.1468801 >>1468792 >bed moves on Y-axis >bowden extruder >no bracing to keep the z axis pointed up still ok for its price/build volume I guess

>>	Anonymous Sat Sep 22 05:38:36 2018 No.1468802 >>1468800 same as >>1468801 but with even actual linear components.

>>	Anonymous Sat Sep 22 05:39:39 2018 No.1468803 >>1468802 ment to say even less

Anonymous Sat Sep 22 06:31:12 2018 No.1468815

>>1467202
I have a CR10s mini and i peint pla on glass with 60° bed temp and it sticks to it like hell. Almost hard to remove.
Since I dont want to leave the printer qith heated bed alone when Im at work because fire hazard, Im thinking of buying aomebuildtack or what its called and put on the glass.

Anonymous Sat Sep 22 09:13:39 2018 No.1468846
File: 165 KB, 922x609, 0680f77579611b21374a71aafeee9997.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Alright here's a new 22lr pistol design. It ejects the spent casings automatically making reloading quite fast. Just cock the bolt, insert a round, and pull the trigger, after firing the shell is ejected so you can just repeat the firing sequence.

>>	Anonymous Sat Sep 22 10:14:30 2018 No.1468861 >>1468846 How many guns I need for one box of bullets?

>>	Anonymous Sat Sep 22 10:32:31 2018 No.1468874 File: 17 KB, 628x472, e5498c5f14000eace16e13c2f0377941_preview_featured[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1468747 Setting up pronter for much female fun button

>>	Anonymous Sat Sep 22 11:06:22 2018 No.1468882 >>1468846 Please post pics after you blow your hand off, asking for a friend of course.

>>	Anonymous Sat Sep 22 13:17:16 2018 No.1468930 File: 230 KB, 1920x1081, prusa.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-sl1/ It finally came out.

>>	Anonymous Sat Sep 22 13:39:30 2018 No.1468939 >>1468930 Holy fuck. SLA even, not DLP, and a decent price point. I might actually get one, if it's any good. Knowing Prusa, though, lead time is going to be like two years though

>>	Anonymous Sat Sep 22 13:40:55 2018 No.1468941 >>1468939 Wait, never mind, it's still DLP, I misread

>>	Anonymous Sat Sep 22 14:01:56 2018 No.1468952 I'm going to print this camera mount that attaches to the hot bed https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2493203/comments What high-temp filament should I order from Amazon? The guy in the comment says he used a special PLA

>>	Anonymous Sat Sep 22 14:59:50 2018 No.1468974 >>1468930 So it's basically a Photon/D7 but with a bit of polish and higher price...

>>	Anonymous Sat Sep 22 16:04:48 2018 No.1469004 >>1468974 Classic prusa. -double the price -write prusa on it -deliver orders with half year delays

>>	Anonymous Sat Sep 22 17:20:59 2018 No.1469036 Why the fuck is PID tuning a hotend so fucking hard? I've tried to tune my hotend like 10 times now and every time it either takes forever to heat up, or it fluctuates like 3 degrees around target. This is so god damn annoying.

Anonymous Sat Sep 22 17:36:34 2018 No.1469038

>>1468578
>>1468569

Perfect, thanks dude. I was mostly asking the original question because I'm able to get free PLA pretty often but I have no control of the color, so if I can avoid buying some there's no reason to (plus the free pla is really nice material)

If I'm able to get some stuff done soon I'll be sure to post it

>>	Anonymous Sat Sep 22 17:41:48 2018 No.1469040 >>1469036 CR-10S?

Anonymous Sat Sep 22 17:49:18 2018 No.1469042

>>1469004
You forgot
-pretty much guaranteed to work
-doesn't require a lot of calibration, if any
-doesn't burn your house down
-supports the guy who developed it
-not cheap Chinese copies where your money goes nowhere useful

The pre-order delay is a nightmare though, you're right about that. At least it's only about 3 months this time

>>	Anonymous Sat Sep 22 18:34:24 2018 No.1469053 >>1469042 Well yeah, if you are a technology/engineering illiterate then prusa is the way to go.

>>	Anonymous Sat Sep 22 19:00:20 2018 No.1469071 >>1468930 Anyone know when they're going to release plans? What was the time between the i3 releasing and the plans for that?

>>	Anonymous Sat Sep 22 20:51:33 2018 No.1469109 File: 2.25 MB, 305x329, 0f372d134f7e89e6ab6a6d0626f7a1747483dedfec08c81cfab350b7aebc2642.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1465220 How do I find the files for that semen demean in OP's pick?

Anonymous Sat Sep 22 21:15:32 2018 No.1469122

>>1469053
I don't know why people equate "doesn't want to waste time" with "can't build/adjust printer". Sure, I CAN do all the setup and keep a cheap kit in good condition, but it doesn't mean I WANT to be constantly messing with it to get good results

Anonymous Sat Sep 22 21:25:30 2018 No.1469125

>>1468930
>that pricetag
Holy shit, i can understand why the MK3 is expensive (ton of new features and genuine parts), but why the hell is this thing so expensive? Those things are extreme simple machines with a fraction of the parts a FDM printer has. Literally expecpting to see decent machines for 250$ within the next year.

>>	Anonymous Sat Sep 22 21:40:15 2018 No.1469130 >>1469125 IIRC the projector is the bulk of the cost since it has to be high-quality/resolution and run for extended periods of time

Anonymous Sun Sep 23 00:14:49 2018 No.1469201

Why cannot I not remove supports? Shouldn't I just be able to tear them off? At this rate I would have to slice them off with a razor it would take an absurd amount of time for a large print. I assume I have a setting in cura wrong? Monoprice II. Thanks.

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 00:16:57 2018 No.1469202 >>1469130 The website says it uses an lcd for printing, so so much for that.

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 00:35:11 2018 No.1469206 >>1469201 Full fan on support ends

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 00:36:59 2018 No.1469208 Hows my clitoris doing guy?

Anonymous Sun Sep 23 02:00:17 2018 No.1469229

>>1468939
DLP is SLA done with a DigitalMirrorDevice (DMD)
>>1468941
no, its not DLP it uses a LiquidCrystalDevice (LCD)
If you wanna keep your stupid naming sceme you now must call this a LCD-printer while it actually is a SLA utilising a LCD as optical mask

Anonymous Sun Sep 23 02:14:21 2018 No.1469233
File: 164 KB, 655x818, Supports2.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I haven't upgraded my version of Slic3r since I got my printer 3 years and 3 months ago. It's still working fine since there's no major bugs.
The only thing that's bothering me is that supports rarely generate properly and they always generate at a layer height of 0.2 no matter what I have the actual print set at (so the supports will be 0.2 thick when the model is sliced at 0.1 no matter what), and that they're not always very useful. Is there any reason for me to upgrade yet?

Also, is there any reason for me to try to learn Cura? What's the major difference between it and Slic3r? I don't want to learn a new interface + tool for negligible improvement.

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 03:20:56 2018 No.1469245 >>1469233 Considering how the difference between an amazing print and a pile of spider webbed shit is all in the g-code, it might be worth your time to take advantage of 3 years of development.

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 07:28:00 2018 No.1469294 Hey. I'm considering getting a Photon to print some miniatures of my own design. Anyone know the approximate print time and material cost for a 30mm or so mini?

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 07:56:40 2018 No.1469299 >>1469294 specs say 20mm/hour. I'd say 2hours for a 30mm figure since specs are always optimistic. their resin is ~73$/Liter. Assuming a 30mm cube that will be 0.027Liters results in 1.971$. Primary cost will be worktime not material cost.

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 08:20:46 2018 No.1469310 >>1469122 Nobody wants to waste their time, it's that people would rather save 750$ by wasting a bit of time

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 08:28:07 2018 No.1469315 >>1469310 Excuse me, i should've said saving 1050$ since 1300$ is just the price of the unassembled kit which would make it more of a hassle compared to the 550$ Photon which is pre-assembled.

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 08:40:00 2018 No.1469320 >>1469299 Thanks a ton for the estimate! I think I'll try to make some molds of stuff I print then. Unless it's some one-off piece.

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 09:51:01 2018 No.1469356 >>1469233 Cura takes about a half hour to "learn". The hardest part is figuring out the layout of the gui.

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 11:55:38 2018 No.1469424 >>1467115 Increase your flow rate by 10% and drop your speed a bit

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 12:18:18 2018 No.1469436 >>1469424 sorry but no, that's such a crutch of a solution.

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 13:07:36 2018 No.1469452 File: 219 KB, 1024x1292, IMG_20180923_120219.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Jumping on this hype train before it leaves the station in a few days

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 13:46:22 2018 No.1469469 File: 2.60 MB, 4032x2268, 20180922_144726.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1468874 >>1468747 >>1468709 Sorry it took so long, job got in the way and then I forgot about it. Print's done, just gotta clean a little.

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 13:49:10 2018 No.1469472 >>1469452 >nut on stand Am i missing something?

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 13:57:17 2018 No.1469482 >>1469472 It's a new Pokemon. And no, that's not a joke.

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 14:18:22 2018 No.1469500 >>1469469 I grew carrots this year for the first time in my garden and I pulled up some that looked very much like this, just orange.

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 14:23:03 2018 No.1469501 >>1469452 ???/???

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 14:25:59 2018 No.1469505 File: 2.63 MB, 4032x2268, 20180923_132344.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1469469 Everyone look at my clit. What to print next? See previous post for limitations. I still have a bunch of <100g rolls I would like to use up.

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 14:30:41 2018 No.1469508 >>1469505 do my boy augustus https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:196044

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 14:33:21 2018 No.1469515 File: 262 KB, 628x472, 20140805f_Augustus_by_CosmoWenman_preview_featured[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1469508 Roger that. Next up, son of salad and ruler of Italy.

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 15:52:45 2018 No.1469542 File: 298 KB, 760x428, nutto.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1469472 >>1469482 Nutto, the unofficial name for a new Pokemon that appeared in Pokemon Go for 30 minutes yesterday

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 19:02:24 2018 No.1469634 >prusa dlp announced Im gathering the strength to withstand the swarms of normies fanboying at work. I already got an e-mail by a coworker to check it out how awesome it is.

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 19:36:31 2018 No.1469665 >>1469542 Gen 2 and beyond was a mistake.

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 19:54:59 2018 No.1469681 >>1468930 omg!!

>>	Anonymous Sun Sep 23 19:57:17 2018 No.1469682 >>1469634 where do you work?

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 24 02:10:46 2018 No.1469830 >>1469682 a university

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 24 10:21:54 2018 No.1469956 If I tried to build an lcd printer would the objective be to get the vat sitting as close to or even directly on the lcd panel, or does there need to be some protection in between?

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 24 11:39:58 2018 No.1469986 >>1469956 As close as possible, but you may want to have a very thin layer of glass to protect from potential spillage. Be aware that the FEP film at the bottom of the vat is a consumable and needs to be replaced every once in awhile.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 24 18:58:56 2018 No.1470178 >>1469830 >>1469682 >>1469634 Surprisingly noone said a word.

Anonymous Mon Sep 24 21:15:19 2018 No.1470265
File: 45 KB, 796x375, comp.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I wish there was a program that was a combination of Blender and Fusion. I love F360's ability to rigidly define "this is vertical", "this is tangent" etc. but love Blender's freedom to move things around arbitrarily.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 24 21:47:44 2018 No.1470276 >>1470265 Forgot to actually state the question: Is there a way to get even remotely what I'm describing in blender, i.e. set constraints for certain geometry so I don't mess up my angles when moving around vertices and edges?

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 24 22:01:52 2018 No.1470284 >>1470276 >>1470276 g to grab (g again to edge slide) x = limit move to x axis Shift+z = exclude z axis Using the knife, press c to constrain (options listed on bottom bar)

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 24 22:07:45 2018 No.1470287 File: 2.61 MB, 4032x2268, 20180924_070208.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1469508 >>1469515 Did some calculations to have the print use exactly all of my green filament, but man is my math bad.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 24 22:09:41 2018 No.1470288 File: 2.30 MB, 4032x2268, 20180924_210447.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1470287 Came out pretty damn good except for the stupid support material. I could clean it up more but I've already put enough effort into this one.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 24 22:11:27 2018 No.1470290 File: 3.76 MB, 4032x2268, 20180924_210454.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1470288 It's like every picture I take in front of my screen flips for some reason.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 24 22:13:51 2018 No.1470291 File: 3.64 MB, 4032x2268, 20180924_210511.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1470290 >>1468709 WHAT SHOULD I PRINT NEXT? I have some lovely pink filament to use up.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 24 22:14:38 2018 No.1470293 Did account for suports in your maths?

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 24 22:16:56 2018 No.1470294 >>1470291 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2788761

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 24 22:25:49 2018 No.1470299 >>1470290 Turn your camera around. Orientation is stored in the pic metadata which is removed on 4chan to keep you from being doxed

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 24 22:32:58 2018 No.1470303 >>1470284 Those shortcuts are useful, but I was meaning more along the lines of "have a constant width between two edges" or "have these two lines at a specific angle from each other"

Anonymous Mon Sep 24 22:40:02 2018 No.1470308
File: 40 KB, 628x472, 68e8565d70ea3a8a0cecfe4b5e33879a_preview_featured[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1470294
That model doesn't look the best, but fuck it. One pretty pink power panger coming up.

>>1470293
I think I have the wrong weight written down for the spool. Also my printer is a bowden style printer, so I shit the bed instead of adding unusable filament in the tube after the spool runs dry.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 24 23:01:23 2018 No.1470314 File: 180 KB, 1313x907, 5271448.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1470303

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 25 00:29:19 2018 No.1470374 >>1470303 You can do things like that with clever use of modifiers. And non-applied object transforms (so the editing isn't destructive, and you can see the angles of rotations, translations etc)

Anonymous Tue Sep 25 00:39:19 2018 No.1470380

>>1470314
Funny, I've never heard of a good half of those programs (Form-Z, Bonzai 3D, nVil, and everything under Precise Dimensions->Neat Interface), and never seen anyone use them (even the free ones). I wish I could afford Rhino, that sounds pretty much perfect. Thanks for the flowchart.

>>1470374
Modifiers wouldn't help in Edit Mode, best I could do would be booleans, but Blender's bools aren't the best a lot of the time.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 25 00:48:33 2018 No.1470385 >>1470380 There's Snapping, and also typing numbers to move/rotate/extrude by exact increments

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 25 03:32:29 2018 No.1470418 >>1470287 Shit nigga, how much infill you fucking need?

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 25 03:56:56 2018 No.1470422 >>1470287 Wow that almost looks SLA-like, what are your setup and slicer settings? And can you try doing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1791064

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 25 04:09:05 2018 No.1470429 >>1470314 >Sketchup >unprintable Only if you are a retard.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 25 05:17:12 2018 No.1470441 >>1470287 Dude you've got way too much supports and infill.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 25 05:39:29 2018 No.1470444 >>1470441 As a man in his mid 50's i can say with great sertinty that there is no such thing as too much support.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 25 06:47:45 2018 No.1470465 >>1470429 Pro tip: most people are retards.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 25 10:51:39 2018 No.1470550 >>1470276 I'm with you man. The only workaround I found to it is by using the two software together

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 25 12:34:38 2018 No.1470610 >>1470380 For sure anon, I can't remember where I got it though kek

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 25 12:38:30 2018 No.1470613 >>1470429 You're probably right, I didn't make the flowchart and I haven't used sketchup

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 25 15:45:45 2018 No.1470720 >>1470303 No. Blender is a polygonal modeler, completely different from parametric modelers which is what you're asking for.

Anonymous Tue Sep 25 15:58:36 2018 No.1470729
File: 1.12 MB, 2448x2460, IMG_2017.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Got a Photon yesterday, put it in a fume hood at work but the smell is still noticeable anywhere in the lab.
Resin is a pain in the ass to deal with. FDM is such an easy method to print with.
Followed the instruction and made a successful print for the first time. FDM is so much hassle to set up right.

Since theres not enough pics for the collage imma dump some pics i took of the print so i can put one in the collage.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 25 16:00:01 2018 No.1470731 File: 995 KB, 1980x2240, IMG_2019.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1470729

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 25 16:01:21 2018 No.1470734 File: 1.23 MB, 2448x2304, IMG_2020.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1470731 Ayyy! No teeth. Anycubics own support generation. I bet it could be tweaked to support the teeth.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 25 16:03:48 2018 No.1470735 File: 1.32 MB, 2448x2528, IMG_2023.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1470734 Under the microscope, unknown magnification. A hair for reference.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 25 16:05:31 2018 No.1470737 File: 1.16 MB, 2448x1892, IMG_2022.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1470735 Zoom and enhance!

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 25 16:13:13 2018 No.1470741 >>1470729 Sounds about right. Pls ceck back if cracks appear in your prints after a couple of months. Thats whats happening with mine and I'm looking for other resins to try.

Anonymous Tue Sep 25 16:21:22 2018 No.1470745

>>1470729
How would you rate the interface/actual procedure from 3D model to part ready to be taken off the printer? Unusable Chinese garbage, or so easy a child could do it, or somewhere in between? I've been considering getting a Photon but the uncertainty regarding how it is to actually print is what's holding me back.

Anonymous Tue Sep 25 16:59:36 2018 No.1470762

>>1470741
Will do.
This resin was supplied with the printer. Also made an order for 1 liter from anycubic but im planning to sample different suppliers resin too.
Have you tried dipping the print in resin and cure it? Maybe that would seal the cracks up.

>>1470745
Babby level model preparation and print setup needed, its fucking easy compared to FDM. The manual is pretty clear on the setup. It might be a ping pong product but this is a stellar exception how they can make good things if they really want to.
I used the supplied software, did everything on default. Not sure how newer versions work. I plucked a couple of useless supports and added some, where i felt the model needed it. The interface is simple and i think theres not much you can change anyway.
This is pretty accurate and on point to how to operate the printer: https://youtu.be/dVYJfl3tOQk?t=1m23s
This is how the software handles: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7eZWHUOhoAw
Forgot to mention, the print is 2-3cm tall, at .1mm resolution it took 1h45m

Anonymous Tue Sep 25 17:04:22 2018 No.1470768

>>1470762
I'm having more and more trouble resisting buying it, particularly since the Prusa is twice as expensive for the same resolution (I think?) and I could have the Photon delivered by the end of the week.

Is there anything you dislike about it? Any issues you can see becoming frustrating over time or early warning signs?

Anonymous Tue Sep 25 17:14:43 2018 No.1470777

>>1470768
Unlucky timing for deciding on a DLP now. Well. I am pretty biased against anything from prusa so i would pick the Photon easy.

I have like 1-2 hours of experience with this machine, so i cant say anything for certain.
I had a subconscious fear of the FEP foil being torn at large cross sections. Maybe thats the only positive i can say about the prusa DLP, with the tilting vat.
Not sure how i would resume an interrupted print, it should be easy to code in firmware.
Not sure how loud is the internal fan since the fume hood i used was super loud.
The resin is a pain to deal with, but thats independent of the type of printer. You need a separate room for this thing. And a lot of safety gear.

Cant decide for you, but id go for the Photon.

Anonymous Tue Sep 25 17:37:17 2018 No.1470786

>>1470768

I was super pumped about SLA months ago but the more i read about the resin the more discouraged i get to the point where i've now scrapped the idea of getting one entirely. Also i'm willing to bet that Prusa will be using the same Sharp LS055R1SX04 2K LCD that everyone uses. If it turns out to be Sharp's 4K model i'd be pretty impressed, as it's the most high pixel density LCD you can get right now and 4 times more expensive.

>>1470735

It's pretty neat how "digital" it looks under the microscope, with every voxel so sharply defined.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 25 17:41:09 2018 No.1470788 >>1470786 I wanted to make more perpendicular pics of the layers to see the voxels but my phone battery died. Will post pics if i dont forget tomorrow.

Anonymous Tue Sep 25 17:45:49 2018 No.1470790

>>1470786
I'm no stranger to working with chemicals, so I feel that the issues the resins have is a fair tradeoff for more detailed prints and not having to deal with droopy overhangs or bridges - but that's me, specifically, and I get why a lot of people don't want to touch them

Anonymous Tue Sep 25 17:54:03 2018 No.1470792

>>1470788

Is it me or is it possible to discern the individual subpixels?

>>1470790

It seems that detail is of top importance mostly when doing toys and figurines, maybe dental work. If you're in those fields professionally it would be a fair tradeoff and probably the only choice. But for anything else neither the build volume nor the material cost makes it worthwhile IMO. I'd love to get my hands on a Photon to play around with but i kinda don't see myself using it regularly in the long term.

Anonymous Tue Sep 25 18:00:59 2018 No.1470797
File: 586 KB, 1135x790, 2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Just got my brand new Tronxy P802MA. Brand new, 40x22x22cm printing volume, my very first printer, got it from a chink site for only 150 buckaroos.

I must say, it's the most fucking exciting sensation to see something you invested 10+ hours into building and calibrating begin working properly for the first time. Printing a figurine right now. Got damn it, this is glorious.

Anonymous Tue Sep 25 18:19:22 2018 No.1470812
File: 171 KB, 710x528, Cuttlefish.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1470792
>toys and figures
My use-case is more jewelry and tabletop things and I'd love to be able to prototype them before sending them off to Shapeways. Doing things like pic related with FDM equipment is a pain in the ass with current consumer printers due to the fine details and weird geometries (parts at strange angles to bed, etc.), so that's definitely a clear advantage of SLA for me

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 25 20:25:40 2018 No.1470866 About to order an Ender 3 from banggood.com (sounds like a porn site) for my first printer. Is there anything else I need to order with it from this chink site, or should I just get the filament/nozzles/etc from amazon? Trying to save money.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 00:56:01 2018 No.1470981 >>1470797 >10+ hours Eat a lot of paint chips as a kid?

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 00:58:07 2018 No.1470982 Where is my pink ranger?

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 01:10:10 2018 No.1470987 >>1470797 Good on you, have fun with it. Any questions arise, ask away, that's what these threads are for.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 01:48:46 2018 No.1471001 >>1470812 is this plated? or painted?

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 01:52:39 2018 No.1471003 Is it viable to get an Ender 3 to print and sell random stuff or just for the fun of learning about 3d printing and printing unnecessary shit

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 01:58:07 2018 No.1471005 >>1471001 Rose gold-plated brass, supposedly: https://www.shapeways.com/product/TLEQR4EPX/cuttlefish-pendant?optionId=60833967&li=marketplace

Anonymous Wed Sep 26 02:10:20 2018 No.1471012

>>1470866
Some various nozzle sizes is good to have as well as a needle-type nozzle cleaning kit for them, and get a razor blade paint scraper (or print one). A 6mm socket with a really short 3D printed handle is useful for swapping out nozzles.
Plan on buying a sheet of glass to put on top of the bed, because chances are it'll be warped.

There are a lot of upgrades out there for the ender 3.
Some stuff to look into as you start using the printer: PTFE bowden tube, some decent tube fittings (the stock ones aren't great), more firm bed springs, maybe a silicone heat block cover. You can also get an all-aluminum bowden block to replace the plastic one, I hear it helps print quality.

Where you buy depends on how much you trust chink sellers. I buy most of my 3dp stuff on amazon ('cause prime), but I'm not so much trying to save money. I can post links to stuff if you want.

Also get a roll or two of PLA, obviously. Use it to print out the plethora of upgrade parts on thingiverse.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 05:38:01 2018 No.1471053 If I'm trying to make my own lcd printer, would there be any problems trying to build an air tight print bay?

Anonymous Wed Sep 26 06:10:12 2018 No.1471062

kek this was breddy gud
i had a print going at home and logged into octopi from work to see it was finished. I wanted to start another print, so i used the movement controls in the octopi to tilt the print and push it off the bed and then i started the new print

based mirrors with zero adhesion, when cold
gluestick fags will never know this feel

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 07:05:40 2018 No.1471078 >>1471062 Nice idea. You could model a bulldozer-like attachment and program the end gcode to wait for the bed cooldown and swipe the model off automatically

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 08:33:56 2018 No.1471098 >>1471078 a problem is that you can't use skirt so you would have to use brims or rafts even for models that don't need them

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 08:39:58 2018 No.1471109 >>1471098 Just set it to none, I don't think I ever printed a skirt in my lifetime

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 08:42:24 2018 No.1471112 >>1471109 that would be a huge mistake, when a print starts the printer always does like 20cm movement before any plastic actually comes out and then it makes a plastic poopie that is wiped in the skirt, and then it goes on to make a flawless print

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 08:54:43 2018 No.1471119 >>1471112 I think this is because you have a shit start gcode. I'm a monoprice mini v2 peasant and the default start gcode (in cura) extrudes a poopie outside of the print area and then draws a 10cm line on the left side to prime the nozzle.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 09:37:38 2018 No.1471141 >>1471119 that is basically the same as a skirt.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 09:54:41 2018 No.1471147 >>1471141 True. But it's always printed on the same spot so you can leave it there and it'll eventually be popped off by the extruder

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 13:18:15 2018 No.1471222 File: 1.24 MB, 2448x2424, IMG_2025.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Back with more pics. Unsupported layer separation here.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 13:19:59 2018 No.1471223 File: 1.84 MB, 2448x2392, IMG_2032.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1471222 Alien bootie.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 13:23:07 2018 No.1471226 File: 1.48 MB, 2352x2300, IMG_2029.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1471223 The raster structure is noticable Also theres some bubbles under the surface. I have access to a CT scanner i might see how large these are.

Anonymous Wed Sep 26 14:12:30 2018 No.1471248

I'm getting into 3d printing, my goal is to prototype a robotic arm (eventually). I plan on buying the MG M2 printer, and some amazon PLA filament. Does anyone have experience with that filament? The reviews say its good but I'd like to get some anon's opinions as well.

Also, what are some quick tips that I might need? Assume I have understanding in material sciences and CAD/3d modeling already, so I'm looking for more of the ease of use tips, like somebody mentioned using hair spray or a glue stick on the bed to help remove the print when done? Or will the resources in the OP be all I need to get started?

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 15:28:21 2018 No.1471281 >>1471248 Honestly the Amazon filament is ok, but if you're getting a printer that expensive I'd definitely go for nicer stuff. Also, the biggest ease of use tip you can be given is unless you already have one, get a glass bed. It's so much better.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 15:45:25 2018 No.1471290 >>1471248 What made you choose the M2 for your first printer? There's plenty of cheaper options for probably comparable quality.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 15:51:34 2018 No.1471294 >>1471290 Precision, form factor and build quality

Anonymous Wed Sep 26 16:21:54 2018 No.1471306

What do you think of prusament?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80hutqAJg-c
Dirty burgers have to pay pretty much twice the price because the shipping costs as much as a spool (feels good man) but i am lucky enough to be living in the same shithole as prusa, so i can get it shipped for just $4
The normal filament i use is about $10 cheaper than the price prusa wants for his and i have no issues with using it so far. Do you think it's worth it to buy the prusa one?
Seems like the only advantage is 0.02mm error margin compared to normal 0.05mm but to be honest that seems kind of useless to me, unless you print life sized atoms

Anonymous Wed Sep 26 16:46:20 2018 No.1471318

>>1471306

It sounds overly dramatic (our filament is made by ROBOTS that reject even the slightest inconsistency and you can track its family tree with a QR code!!1), but unlike most other Prusa products the price is totally normal so it's worth a shot. Don't expect to be blown away by it (it's just filament FFS) but it should work well.

Anonymous Wed Sep 26 16:49:53 2018 No.1471320

>>1471318
seems to me like wasted money desu. you are paying almost 30% more than for another spool
i have been using medium price fillaments for a long time and i had exactly zero jams or problems
like who the fuck cares if there is a 0.001mm hole in the print somewhere because the spool is 0.05 tolerance?
nobody but autists thats who

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 16:57:01 2018 No.1471321 File: 123 KB, 942x943, nigga.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1471320 Yeah, why would you care about a scratch on your car or dead pixels on a screen or something? Autism, amirite?

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 16:58:37 2018 No.1471323 >>1471321 you are comparing oranges to potatoes

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 16:59:43 2018 No.1471324 >>1471323 Cosmetic defects can be really important to some people, anon

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 17:01:11 2018 No.1471326 >>1471324 except in the fillament limit they are so small you can't even see them

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 18:16:20 2018 No.1471351 Can I use sewing machine oil to lube up my printer? If so, what parts? >chrome rods >screw rods >bearings I heard white lithium grease is better for the bearings.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 18:19:19 2018 No.1471354 >>1471351 doesn't really matter, such low load parts anyway, i just use white lithium grease for everything.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 18:29:57 2018 No.1471361 >>1471354 Neat, thanks for the info anon.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 26 20:41:12 2018 No.1471417 >>1471320 I think that stuff starts to matter only when using specialty fine nozzles like 0.2mm

Anonymous Wed Sep 26 20:45:31 2018 No.1471421

>>1471417

By the way i just thought of something - a "filament runout" sensor ontop of the extruder that can also detect the exact width of the filament. The width value gets fed to the board and the firmware adjusts the extrusion amount accordingly so you can use even the worst turd filaments without problems.

Anonymous Wed Sep 26 21:08:24 2018 No.1471428
File: 3.10 MB, 1968x3660, 20180926_195301.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1470418
>>1470441
>"too much"
>shiggy diggy

>>1470422
Printed at 0.1mm layer height in ABS on a Rostock Max v2

>>1470982
It failed, restarting the print. ETA till finished 1 day 10 hours.

Anonymous Thu Sep 27 01:19:46 2018 No.1471553

Printlet here, anyone ever use a "YD3D"? A family member bought one and has been asking me to help them figure it out, and I didn't know anything about it to begin with.
The included documentation is literally just screenshots of the settings of an old version of cura, which I've stumbled through, but the hardware itself is a mystery to me. It claims to be auto levelling, but when I tried to make it use the auto home function, it tried to press the nozzle through the plate...

Anonymous Thu Sep 27 02:57:31 2018 No.1471585

>>1471306
I dont think it affects me so much since i am mainly printing mechanical parts (even worse 90%+ are in ABS with a 1mm nozzle), but is think it is a step in the right direction and should i ever have a need for precision printing, i will give it a shot. I dont even have a single Prusa product, but i think they are doing good, by introducing new reasonable stuff that pretty much quite often becomes the new standard that other companies copy.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 27 03:04:44 2018 No.1471587 >>1471585 >the new standard that other companies copy. thats recist af. ping pong dindu nuthin wrong

Anonymous Thu Sep 27 03:04:49 2018 No.1471588

>>1471421
It is one of those things that sound good at the first thought, but have too many problems to be implemented. First you would need to measure it from different angles since it aint have to be round, filament gets a very very slight triangle shape when wound onto a spool and then there is the problem with surface smoothness with every filament that has any sort of fiber in it.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 27 03:27:22 2018 No.1471594 I'm about to cop an Ender 3 from china (aliexpress). Anything I should order with it? (glass, nozzles, filament?)

Anonymous Thu Sep 27 03:37:27 2018 No.1471599

>>1471594
Get a version with the glas bed, saves you from the hazzle of ordering one later for lot more. Would not recommend to buy filament from china when it is your first printer, you will have to deal with so much new stuff, having a shitty filament can easily fuck up the whole experience. Maybe buy a gluestick for better bed adhesion.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 27 06:17:45 2018 No.1471647 >>1471226 Thanks for the thumbprint anon, now i can hack the appleclouds.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 27 07:22:38 2018 No.1471656 >>1471647 ohnoes

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 27 07:58:19 2018 No.1471662 >>1471599 I can cop the filament locally, it's the same price

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 27 09:26:31 2018 No.1471687 File: 1.64 MB, 2079x2617, 20180922_132118~01.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1471594 >>1471599 Glass can go to hell Why don't you have a flexible build surface yet 3DPG?

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 27 11:07:45 2018 No.1471727 Whan budget should I expect If I want to DIY some serious Ultimaker clone with an enclosure and maximal possible print quality?

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 27 11:59:57 2018 No.1471754 >>1471727 I'd guess about 2k

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 27 12:27:37 2018 No.1471769 File: 746 KB, 2268x3024, 20180927_092541-2268x3024.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Any idea why this happened at the end? The rest of the print seemed fine. Thanks.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 27 12:39:19 2018 No.1471774 Copymaster 500 for £524, y/n? I only have until tomorrow to decide and already have a CR-10 3S.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 27 12:49:27 2018 No.1471778 >>1471769 Looks like you might have been running too fast for the previous layer to fully cool. If your slicer permits, increase the minimum layer time.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 27 12:50:08 2018 No.1471779 If a rod diameter is 5mm, what diameter hole should i make into my model wheel do get free rotation without wiggling? i am using .4 nozzle

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 27 12:54:05 2018 No.1471780 >>1471769 Post another pic from the side. Looks like overheating. What slicer?

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 27 12:56:50 2018 No.1471782 >>1471779 Use one of these to find out how tight you can make your tolerances without fusing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2318105 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2301071 It will depend on your printer, filament and slicer profiles.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 27 13:03:13 2018 No.1471785 >>1471778 I'll look into that, thanks. >>1471780 Just left my house. I will in a few hours. I'm using cura.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 27 13:41:18 2018 No.1471799 >>1471727 >>1471754 >$2k to make an Ultimaker clone from scratch just buy an Ultimaker lmoa

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 27 13:46:44 2018 No.1471802 >>1471727 but ultimaker is shit why would you want to make shit?

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 27 13:55:37 2018 No.1471805 >>1471799 >$2k to make an Ultimaker clone from scratch he said serious. Serious!

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 27 15:16:56 2018 No.1471834 File: 399 KB, 2048x1536, IMG_20180927_211436.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Yay it's working. I can't believe how strong pla is. I thought it would break for sure. And now to build the rest of my sexbot.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 27 15:42:15 2018 No.1471841 >>1471834 you can't leave off saying you're making a sex bot and not say more about it

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 27 15:45:06 2018 No.1471842 File: 526 KB, 2268x3024, 20180927_124413-2268x3024.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1471780

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 27 15:48:40 2018 No.1471843 File: 43 KB, 600x597, Safety first.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1471834

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 27 18:04:08 2018 No.1471887 >>1471834 PLA gets a bad rap as the relative weakest of the common filament plastics It definitely is, but it's still very tough and durable, just not as tough and durable as nylon or steel

Anonymous Thu Sep 27 18:06:34 2018 No.1471888
File: 12 KB, 400x446, bowden-extruder-diagram.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Just built a 3D printer, and it's got a bowden extrusion system. I've got underextrusion problems, can anybody help me figure out what's causing that?
Should I disable retraction?

Anonymous Thu Sep 27 18:33:19 2018 No.1471895

>>1471888
more spring tension on extruder gear

make sure your slicer is set to ~1.75mm filament width (sometimes cura resets to 3mm)

also, don't disable retraction, bowden setups need it
on my bowden setup, i have the settings at 4mm-7mm and retract speeds near 60mm/s

calibrate your extrusion is you haven't already
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y

Anonymous Thu Sep 27 18:42:24 2018 No.1471899
File: 367 KB, 1069x762, 84898d1d752c9f458372373c706a1f1d.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1471895
Oh, thank you anon. I think you might be right. Also, I occasionally get zits and other imperfections. Here is a photo of a recent Benchy I tried making but quit mid-way since I can see it's terrible.
I really appreciate more feedback and information as to what to do. I'll try calibrating the extruder too.

This is the result of disabling retraction after which the prints became solid but looked like shit (pic related).

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 27 20:55:00 2018 No.1471981 >>1471785 >I'm using cura. Under the cooling tab, enable "lift head", and make sure the minimum layer time is at least 20 seconds.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 27 20:56:21 2018 No.1471983 >>1471981 Thank you I will try this

Anonymous Thu Sep 27 21:02:04 2018 No.1471986

>>1471899
>>1471888
>>1471895

https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

Refer to these for help. Also make sure that it's really under-extrusion you're having and not something else before you adjust the flow rate. Retraction distance should be as long as it can be without the filament leaving the "melt zone" of your print head (you'll have to look up your print head specs to figure out the length of your melt zone). You might need to adjust your retraction speed.

Anonymous Thu Sep 27 21:23:38 2018 No.1471998

Hey, I'm the anon with the fucked underextrusion, and I actually managed to fix it!
Adjusting the belts and calibrating the extruder was all that I needed to print perfect models. All previous problems are now gone.
Thanks for all the help anons.
>>1471895
>>1471986

Anonymous Thu Sep 27 23:43:26 2018 No.1472070

>>1471727
about 500-900 bucks, depending on what additional features you want like:
>silent stepper drivers
>dual z achsis
>32 bit controller
>filament runout sensor
>automatic bed leveling
>magnetic removeable bed
>titan heatbreak and plated nozzles
>...

there is this aluminium extrusion ultimaker 2 from 2015, might be interesting for a start to look into it.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:811271

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 28 03:01:22 2018 No.1472151 Cant make a new thread right now, in not at home and internet is slow af. Sorry lads.

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 28 07:33:18 2018 No.1472198 >>1471899 Holy shit is that printed with a 1mm nozzle? What printer is that?

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 28 07:58:10 2018 No.1472204 File: 3.47 MB, 4194x2052, Screen Shot 2018-09-28 at 13.32.18.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] What is this shit and how do I avoid it. The printed model shows a visible line too.

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 28 08:35:05 2018 No.1472214 >>1472204 It's called Z scar. It's all over your print. Adjust settings related to the shell.

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 28 08:47:49 2018 No.1472218 >>1470797 How does this Tronxy chink kit compare to Ender 3 chink kit?

Anonymous Fri Sep 28 09:01:36 2018 No.1472230
File: 26 KB, 1204x568, Clipboard01.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Welp i finished designing a very simple button pushing robot, i am printing it out now, i hope that shit works. its sole purpose is to press a button so it fucking should.
I stole the design from train wheels and if it's good enough for trains it should be good enough for pushing buttons

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 28 09:07:29 2018 No.1472233 >>1472214 Found it, it was z-seam alignment. Defaults to 'sharpest corner' and on this model somehow created that seam. Thanks

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 28 09:29:30 2018 No.1472246 >>1472230 Idk if that design is 1 to 1 but the axle on the big gear will certainly collide with the pushed hand thingy.

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 28 09:55:01 2018 No.1472260 >>1472246 pink objects represent holes to that will be cut into the models

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 28 11:56:08 2018 No.1472293 File: 470 KB, 2048x1536, IMG_20180928_175437.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] It's working well. It's also strong as fuck and the ratio is only 3x1

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 28 13:21:24 2018 No.1472325 Made it back home before 404 New thread: >>1472324

>>	Anonymous Fri Sep 28 15:36:26 2018 No.1472367 >>1472293 You wanna attach a dildo onto that, dont you?

>>	Anonymous Sat Sep 29 18:24:47 2018 No.1472994 >>1471899 hot!

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/diy/ - Do It Yourself