/diy/ - Do It Yourself

[Anonymous No.1458297]

The oil pan threads for my car have been stripped. The shop that did my oil change made a temporary fix by using an oversized drain plug, but they said the pan would need to be replaced on the next oil change. This will be $600 according to them.

Is there any way to make a permanent fix by myself, without having to remove the oil pan? I was looking into using a helicoil insert, but that seems like it would require the pan to be removed. Are there any other options or will I have to cough up the $600?

[Anonymous No.1458298]

Fix the pan yourself. Unless you have some retarded crossmember that you have to remo e it's literally a couple of bolts and a gasket.

Rockauto.com

[Anonymous No.1458308]

>>1458297
The real question is who stripped the bolt in the first place.
Likely some stupid oil change place that used an impact gun to slam the bolt back on.
do like >>1458298 says and replace the pan.
or you can just use a larger bolt. There is no reason to replace it if it doesn't leak.
Some pans you can tap and fit a proper replacement, but I hate tapping a pan since it can leave metal. Mostly caught by the filter but it can get in the pump.

[Anonymous No.1458313]

>>1458297
>$600
that price is pretty humorous, esp if they did it.
Listen to >>1458298 youd need to be really unlucky for this to be complicated

[Anonymous No.1458317]

>>1458308
>>1458298
>>1458313
OP here, I just came across one other thing, can you guys tell me if this is a stupid idea. I'm thinking about just leaving the drain plug on there permanently, and then just using one of those oil extractors to get the oil out whenever I need to change it. Would that work or am I better of replacing the pan?

[Anonymous No.1458318]

>>1458317
>permenantly sealing up your oil drain plug
When life gives you options, it's usually better to do the least retarded thing. Write that down.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1458319]

>>1458317
As long as we’re on retarded ideas, why not drill a second small hole in the pan, tap it, and put a new screw in!

[Anonymous No.1458320]

>>1458318
I didn't mean permanently sealing it, just leaving it on there for as long as possible

[Anonymous No.1458321]

>>1458297
Get one of these and either drill and tap a larger hole or use the same size thread and some glue to seal the the stripped threads. Or just drill and tap a new hole and find a large bolt. You shouldn't have to replace the whole pan for such a minuscule problem. Obviously you're gonna have to drain and change the oil again, but it's probably the easiest maintenance you can do on a car and there's no reason why you can't do it yourself.
And for fuck sake don't use a goddam impact gun, hand tight is enough.

[Anonymous No.1458322]

>>1458320
You mean like a properly threaded drain plig?

[Anonymous No.1458323]

>>1458322
yes

[Anonymous No.1458328]

>>1458319
My brother did that. It worked. He welded a plate over the old hole. lol

[Anonymous No.1458329]

>>1458323
What car and model year?

[Anonymous No.1458330]

>>1458321
Forgot name of the thing*
It's called an "oil drain piggyback plug" and it's the go to fix for this situation. Believe me you're not the first to break and oil pan plug and be S.O.L.
The place that changed your oil is trying to rip you off saying you need a new pan and $600 to do it. A new pan costs 80 dollars tops depending on your vehicle and is about 8-20 bolts of labor. Given that they managed to fucking strip a simple oil plug that you're supposed to have handtight, I wouldn't even let these assholes rake my leaves. You pan is perfectly fine and only needs a new 3 dollar plug fix.

[Anonymous No.1458332]

>>1458329
2005 acura mdx

[Anonymous No.1458337]

>>1458297
>shop stripped my oil pan
>says give us $600

get a lawyer, the shop's insurance will pay

[Anonymous No.1458338]

Fix it with a helicoil

[Anonymous No.1458339]

>>1458337
they told me that it was the previous place that over-torqued the plug, and when they removed it, the threads came off the pan. I don't know if that's BS or not but it's too late now

[Anonymous No.1458341]

>>1458332
Looks like 20 minutes worth of work and 90dollar dollars in parts

https://youtu.be/piuh6BpAu54

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/acura,2005,mdx,3.5l+v6,1431681,engine,oil+pan,5562

[Anonymous No.1458342]

>>1458339
Change your own oil, retard, and you won't have this problem.

[Anonymous No.1458345]

>>1458339
>that's BS

3 year statute of limitations to file suit
not too late

[Anonymous No.1458346]

just put in a fumoto valve, they are awesome. makes for 10 minute oil changes and 8 of those minutes are just letting it drain

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1458352]

>>1458346
>vs 10:15 with a regular drain plug
I hate this meme. Why would you want that flimsy valve hanging off the bottom of your car? I’m lazy as hell but it’s one fucking bolt, why do you need some garden hose valve on there instead?

[Anonymous No.1458378]

>>1458339
That or the trained oil monkey tried to zip it off with an impact set the wrong way.
I have seen so many screwups from places like jiffylube. Including forgetting to put the oil back in, leaving the old filter gasket on, buggering up the drain bolt, transmission fluid in the oil, oil in the transmission... you name it.

>>1458317
This is how they drain oil from some BMWs. They have no drain plug. It works but can leave some cruft in the pan.

[Anonymous No.1458402]

OP back. I've done some research, found out oil extractor won't work with my make/model. I guess I'll try to replace the pan myself in the future but I'm sure I'll fuck that up

[Anonymous No.1458411]

>>1458402
Its not too hard, just clean the surfaces, bed down the gasket in the pan with some gasket shmoo and let it dry for a little bit, then bolt it back up.
About the only things to be wary of is using jack stands so you don't end up a flattened, dead motherfucker and go easy tightening them up so they're not going to strip out.

[Anonymous No.1458412]

If you are going to tap the pan, I suggest ordering a SPIRAL FLUTE (not spiral POINT) tap to do it. It will help keep metal chips out of your pan by directing the chips out towards you. Most everything should come out when you drain the oil after tapping, but stray chips really like to stick to any residual oil film. That's one of the things I do as a machinist when I have to tap a hole in any sort a lubrication vessel, it's up to you if it's worth the extra money on the tap.

[Anonymous No.1458416]

>>1458338
Literally this, you retard.

[Anonymous No.1458417]

>>1458416
helicoils are hack jobs. its not hard to tap it properly

[Anonymous No.1458505]

>>1458321
>>1458330

You keep saying "hand tight", which usually means you tighten with just your fingers. Use a fucking wrench but don't go crazy with it. An oil plug that is hex shaped is not intended to be tightened with your fingers.

And everyone who says "tap a new hole"; if the oil pan is sheet metal this is not going to work.

[Anonymous No.1458506]

>>1458297
Why not get one of these and pay a muffler shop/welder $50 to weld it onto your oil pan?

You know you want to you lazy piece of shit.

[Anonymous No.1458508]

>>1458506
watch out for them speed bumps

[Anonymous No.1458510]

Just change the pan yourself. It’s literally just a couple bolts

[Anonymous No.1458538]

>>1458297
There are two ways you can fix it. The cheapest way is to just tap a bigger thread into the existing pan; quick and effective, but there's also the possibility of getting those metal shavings inside the pan. Not a really huge deal since oil in the pan is pumped through the filter before making it to the crankcase.

The other way is to replace the pan, which since you have an acura, should be relatively simple to /diy/ if you can't intimidate the shop into doing for you. Just remove all the bolts around the pan, crack the seal (very gently) with a putty knife, clean up the mating surface (scrape, scrub, and wipe with brake cleaner), then install a new pan with rtv or the supplied gasket.

[Anonymous No.1458547]

>>1458341
>20 minutes
>remove exhaust y pipe
I guess things are different for me here in the rust belt, but for me removing the y pipe involves an air hammer to pound out broken studs and then since ones always a bigger pain in the dick than that a torch to torch a hole through, then a nut and bolt setup. Or sometimes I weld a stud on the end of whatever fresh metal is there.
Motherfuckers are lucky

[Anonymous No.1458548]

>>1458339
Hard to say but this guys a retard
>>1458345
I've been put in that situation more than once. They very well could be telling the truth. Stop going to quick lubes, problem solved

[Anonymous No.1458552]

>>1458506
>weld an oil pan
You fucking retard. Course youre only top retard I've seen so far itt.
You no realize there's oil in an oil pan?

[Anonymous No.1458554]

One thing I overlooked-- can I not simply re-use the oversized drain plug? Are those just one-time fixes?

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1458555]

>>1458554
Eventually the threads are going to get more fucked and it will leak. If you do it, keep an eye on the level and make sure you have an extra quart or two in the cat.

[Anonymous No.1458556]

>>1458554
You can reuse it but be even more careful torquing it down than you normally would be.

[Anonymous No.1458574]

>>1458552
>You no realize there's oil in an oil pan?
your point?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TUGMREpZnGE

[Anonymous No.1458576]

>remove 6-12 bolts from pan, drop pan into oil catcher
>remove gasket then scrape the mating surface clean with some brillow pads and paper towels
>run a light coat of oil around mating surface
>apply new gasket to pan, bolt new pan on
>fill her back up, crank, watch for leaks for 10-15 minutes

Easy sauce. If you're not super technically inclined, find a buddy who is and buy him a case of beer. Total repair should be sub-$150

[Anonymous No.1458590]

>>1458574
Okay go ask your weld shop to weld your oil pan see what they say. You've obviously never welded anything in your life because all that'll result is holes and slag if you try that shit

[Anonymous No.1458591]

>>1458576
>Easy sauce.

sometimes. on my ordinary Ford truck you have to raise the engine a few inches so that the oil pan clears the oil pump on the inside and a frame member on the outside.

1. drain coolant and detach radiator hoses
2. disconnect exhaust system
3. disconnect fuel lines
4. remove nuts/bolts from engine mounts
5. disconnect transmission from engine
6. raise engine.

then start the "easy" part.

[Anonymous No.1458595]

>>1458590
It's a fucking piece of aluminum. TIG around the hole, drill and tap that shit. Go cry someplace else.
>ermuhgerd i burned shit trying to weld waaahhh it's impossible!!! nobody can do that.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iyofafX7_E4

[Anonymous No.1458599]

>>1458591
Something something "well you bought a ford."

[Anonymous No.1458602]

>>1458595
Its a container of oil. Like I said, go ask someone to weld your oil pan. You'll be laughed out of the place because that's bepis level stupidity

[Anonymous No.1458604]

>>1458591
Late 80s early 90s 150? You can avoid removing the exhaust if you've got a welder and know how to use it pretty well.

[Anonymous No.1458608]

>>1458602
your tears are delicious.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9XR4VLr4xAQ

[Anonymous No.1458610]

>>1458412
I would probably pull the pan and do it in a shop, the cost of a gasket and opportunity to clean everything it worth the peace of mind.

[Anonymous No.1458613]

>>1458610
>I would probably pull the pan and do it in a shop,

and if it's sheet metal you can easily add pic related which is usually used to add a drain to automatic transmission pans.

[Anonymous No.1458624]

>>1458608
>oil pan sitting out and spotless clean
Let me know how they say "take your neetbux elsewhere" nicely.

[Anonymous No.1458625]

>>1458602
You’re a fucking idiot.

[Anonymous No.1458627]

>>1458608

that weld is beautiful. If only I could justify 3 or 4 thousand dollars for a synchrowave 210 and some accessories.

[Anonymous No.1458642]

New to /diy/ but there should be a tool to make new threads right? Also what car? Oil pans are pretty unexpensive?

[Anonymous No.1458645]

>>1458602
Because oil pans are a permanent part of the engine block, no way to remove (in your brain).

>>1458642
That’s called a tap.

[Anonymous No.1458687]

>>1458590
>>1458552
>>1458602

>When you are so fucking retarded that you confused the volatility of oil as opposed to gasoline.

It is a 1 inch diameter hole being welded on the OUTSIDE of an OIL pan. You drain the fucking non volatile oil and clean the outside. In most cases they can take the goddamn oil pan off with a series of (usually) easy to reach bolts. If you are that much of a weenie then dump kerosene to dilute the oil and clean out the sludge, then drain it out and air hose the fumes out and leave it for a day. The normal working man doesn't have time for that shit though.

>>1458505
Well excuse me. "Hand tight" means "Hand tight" to those that know what the fuck they're doing and know what tool to use. No fucking shit you use a wrench or a socket, anyone stupid enough to simply use their hands for tightening things on a fucking vehicle shouldn't be working on them in the first place. Also in case you completely failed to read OP's post and see his pic then you would realize that all he has to do is drill one fucking hole and tap it to a new thread size. But no, people need their hands held all the way.
One piece of info that OP will never find anywhere is to NOT use the manufactures torque specs on the oil pan screw because experienced people will tell you that over time and decay, torquing it down said spec may destroy the threads. This may have been what happened at the shop OP took his car to, they dialed the setting on their torque wrench and that's what broke it. Or maybe the wrench itself was a cheapo old one and it gave more torque because it's off calibration. Or maybe Aaron White over tightened it with a 1/2 inch drive, who knows but in any case it's a simple fix.

[Anonymous No.1458689]

>>1458687
>Well excuse me. "Hand tight" means "Hand tight" to those that know what the fuck they're doing and know what tool to use.

to be a genius as you are, it's surprising that you actually think mechanics say "grab that wrench and tighten the nut hand tight, not some other kind of tight".

hand tight means what it says: you use your fingers and just snug it up. it does not mean put your HAND on a wrench or an impact wrench or any tool. it means use your hand. when a mechanic uses a torque wrench that is not the opposite of hand tight; most experienced mechanics use their hands on a wrench to tighten nuts without using a torque wrench, and they NEVER SAY IT WAS HAND TIGHT.

are you british?

[Anonymous No.1458691]

>>1458687
>Well excuse me. "Hand tight" means "Hand tight" to those that know what the fuck they're doing and know what tool to use. No fucking shit you use a wrench or a socket, anyone stupid enough to simply use their hands for tightening things on a fucking vehicle shouldn't be working on them in the first place.

[Anonymous No.1458695]

>>1458319
Take the pan off first

[Anonymous No.1458701]

>>1458689
>to be a genius as you are, it's surprising that you actually think mechanics say "grab that wrench and tighten the nut hand tight, not some other kind of tight".
I'll accept arbitrary measurement when there is a proper tool with the ability to set said arbitrary measurement, such as a torque wrench.

"turn until your confidence and experience tells you to stop before you go full Russian brute force and strip a simple bolt. Using grade school geometry and a basic understanding of what centrifugal force is, you can easily select the proper tool for the task at hand. No wingnuts or easily accessible methods of using your hand to enact force on the object? Can object be loosened by mere hand alone? If not then logically conclude that your hand was not meant for the task at hand. No pun intended.
OR
"set torque wrench to specified numerical unit and turn until wrench tells you to stop"

I'm not going to argue with you about the nature of using any incommensurable tool that one learns how to use through pure experience, go fuck yourself.

>>1458691
>You can use a tool until the limits of your hand strength can no longer turn the tool.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1458702]

>>1458695
Nah that’s what oil filters are for!

What if you magnetized the bit first?

[Anonymous No.1458704]

>>1458701
>go fuck yourself.

so I take it you actually ARE british?

lol. have a nice day.

[Anonymous No.1458717]

>>1458702
Something just struck me as a good idea. Say you're tapping an oil pan drain plug. There are going to be some steel shavings in there no matter what you do. What if you were to attach several strong magnets to the outside of the pan to catch them, then sorta scoot them around to pick up the strays towards the hole where you can scoop them out? Tell me this is a bad idea, or it wouldn't work.

Further idea: you ever seen those PDR guys that use the magnetic thinger inside the panel with a steel ball bearing following it on the paint side to track the tool? How about the opposite, with a steel ball bearing on the inside and the magnet on the outside of the pan to roll around in there and pick up the shavings?

[Anonymous No.1458723]

>>1458704

Sure, I'm from whatever nation you imagine me to be from.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1458752]

>>1458717
I was going to mention something like that too. Just tie a small magnet on the end of a coat hanger and run that shit around the inside of the pan if you’re that worried. Or make sure the new plug is all the way on the bottom and before you ever start the car, flush a bunch of used oil through the whole engine and strain it out and anything dangerous would get flooded out the plug.

[Anonymous No.1458766]

>>1458319
because the pan simply isn't thick enough. if you're gonna make a new drain you gotta add something thick enough to make threads in. at that point the time you spend doing it you might as well just replace the fucking pan for $50

[Anonymous No.1458780]

>>1458689
I'm in the US; my father was a mechanic for years and always used "hand tight" in that same way, along with quite a few other people I know. It's not the dictionary definition, of course, but it certainly gets used like that often enough that you should probably be able to guess what somebody meant when they said it.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1458783]

>>1458766
>no fun allowed!
Then use this >>1458613

[Anonymous No.1458787]

>>1458780
your full of shut

[Anonymous No.1458800]

>>1458297
>stripped the thread
they fucked your car anon. they used the rattle gun and over tightenned it. this shit isnt rocket surgery OP. you just do it by hand.

>>1458339
it's bullshit anon. if the plug sealed your oil pan, over tightenned or not, putting the bolt back in will seal it again.

>too late now
how long has it been anon? its six months later and you're due for another oil change?

>>1458554
not tapping the thread for the new plug means you will probably split the pan.

oil pans are thin sheet metal with a plug welded into it.

>>1458613
easy to go full autist and bend/scratch the pan flange. depends on the car tho. just go slow and use one of those wilkinson sword type razors to cut through the seal and buy a torque wrench if you dont have one. those 10nm bolts on the flange will strip in a second if you even slightly over tighten them.

t. autist who did better his second try

>>1458717
there should already be a magnet inside the oil pan for this sort of thing.

>>1458780
he's thinking of finger tight. ive never heard anyone say hand tight but they tend to just say, do it up tight but you'll know if you do it too tight because then it'll just spin.

[Anonymous No.1458802]

>>1458766
>$50
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Oil-Pan-Black-For-Honda-Accord-Civic-Acura-RSX-2007-2006-2005-2004-2003/300903095720?epid=22015270535&hash=item460f38dda8:g:0dUAAOSwMqVasjxC
wow lucky OP. a new oil pan is actually only $50

for some older cars the pans can be rare and cost hundreds. stop being a faggot OP and change your oil pan. a torque wrench, gasket and some blades for scraping will cost you about $100.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1458805]

>>1458802
>assuming he doesn’t have to drop the tranny and lift the motor off a cross member to get to it

It could be a 30min job or it could be a 30 rack of beer job that takes the whole weekend.

[Anonymous No.1458809]

>>1458717
>>1458752
What if the pan is aluminum?

Also, a magnet isn't going to catch small particles. The oil filter is usually 10-20 micron. A human hair is around 40 micron. You can't really expect a magnet to gran and hold that stuff.

[Anonymous No.1458810]

>>1458780

this is correct. "hand tight" has always meant using a wrench. that other guy has never wrenched in his life.

[Anonymous No.1458812]

>>1458805
woops, that's the RSX i posted not the MDX. MDX uses a solid aluminium cast pan. so probably more expensive. but anyway, he just needs to find a good engine mechanic to wash it and weld a new sump plug. he could find someone to do that for $50. you just say that you have an aluminium oil pan that needs a new sump plug thread welded on. pay in cash and he gets some tax free drinking money.

looks pretty simple. the exhaust is in the way but you just undo a few belts to drop it out of place. they have a flex joint so its no hassle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piuh6BpAu54

[Anonymous No.1458813]

>>1458810

I agree. In my shop, "hand tight" means using a wrench and tightening it as much as you can with your hand. What else could it mean. Nobody uses their fingers to tighten a nut.

fucking 4chan morons.

[Anonymous No.1458814]

>>1458812
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piuh6BpAu54

[Anonymous No.1458818]

>>1458813
>"hand tight" means using a wrench and tightening it as much as you can with your hand

this.

[Anonymous No.1458824]

>>1458602
can someone explain the Bepis joke to me? is he just some local hack that shits up threads with bad advice or what

[Anonymous No.1458826]

OP back. I ordered a hayne's manual for my car on amazon, then I did more research and found out hayne's is shit, so I'm going to return it when it gets here and I bought the factory service manual on a CD from ebay, hope it works out. Fuck this shit jesus

[Anonymous No.1458827]

>>1458824
bepis is a tripcode who changed his name to Beppu or Kevin van dam and perhaps some other names.

he buys a lot of tools, and occasionally destroys a bolt or nut on his car. then he buys more tools.

we like him.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1458829]

>>1458824
You never know what is useful advice and what is pure retardation.

I just started playing with this thing and thought X10 was a model number or something. Then I was wondering how my 45W desk fan was pulling 6A. Then I thought my clamp meter was busted when my 7.5A impact was measuring 30A with no load and the breaker wasn’t tripping.

Then I realized the X10 means the reading on the meter will be 10 times the actual amount.

[Anonymous No.1458830]

>>1458829
>You never know what is useful advice and what is pure retardation.

[Anonymous No.1458833]

>>1458824
unfortunately even if you filter his many, many trips he still shows up and posts utter shite like this >>1458827

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1458834]

>>1458827
I still can’t find rosin flux in a goddamn brick and mortar store.

Pic related is my soldering kit so far. I think I want rosin flux and tip tinner and maybe one of those brass sponge things and my kit will be set unless I get hardcore into it and want one of those stations with temp control.

>>1458833
>so salty and so wrong
I’m too lazy and don’t care enough to delete my trip and post as Anon to defend myself.

[Anonymous No.1458838]

>>1458834

you're turning into the /diy/ version of chris chan

you have a ways to go, though, so don't let it go to your head.

[Anonymous No.1458839]

>>1458834
and yet nobody likes you enough to have a good word to say about you. bit of a conundrum.
but i do absolutely believe you would drop the trip just to suck yourself off. pop open a private window or something probably removes it; i wouldn't know i'm not a degenerate tripfag who doesn't understand the concept of an anonymous imageboard plus i have other things to care about than being 'internet' 'famous' lol.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1458841]

>>1458838
Don’t understand any of that...

Still wondering w2c rosin flux that isn’t Amazon.

And it’s not my fault /diy/ is slow as hell and /o/ is garbage aside from one or two threads. Haven’t been on /out/ much because no time for fishin. It’s the end of summer slump for bass fishin anyway.

[Anonymous No.1458843]

>>1458604
98 Rangers w/ 2.5L engine. I dont know if that his model, but thats the case on mine.

[Anonymous No.1458854]

>>1458695
If you're taking the pan off, you might as well fucking replace the damn thing

[Anonymous No.1458872]

>>1458506
Actually the fumimoto valves are awesome. Chuck the felt washer go for a crush. They come threaded. I use them on my bike.

[Anonymous No.1458891]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pc4bc_SwMkw

[Anonymous No.1458892]

>>1458810
Sometimes you'll see instructions (for a plug) that say hand tight + quarter turn.
How would you interpret this? To me that means tighten with your fingers until the bolt is seated, then quarter turn on a wrench.

[Anonymous No.1458893]

>>1458892
Maybe this whole confusion is why so many grease monkey teenagers strip oil plugs.

[Anonymous No.1458897]

>>1458843
Not super familiar with those so idk. I was just giving a tid bit of knowledge my dad taught me because I live in the rust belt of PA and removing exhaust means buying new hardware and torching the old stuff. Pain in the ass especially since f series pickups are popular Plow vehicles around here so it comes up more than you'd want to imagine.

I wasn't arguing that it's easy like some of these pinheads though, obviously the rest of that work still needs to be done anyway /maybe not the rad hoses I'm not sure but I think you can lift the motor enough to squeeze it out. It's been a while since I've done one where we weren't pulling the motor anyway due to how much work was needed.

[Anonymous No.1458898]

>>1458687
>>1458625
>>1458645
That's my fucking point you faggots. You don't save time by doing that. I'm not saying it's impossible to weld, or even talking about burning the oil. I'm talking about it being a dirty fucking weld which would only make sense to attempt if the job to remove it was a real fucking bear of a job. There's no reason to try to weld oilly metal. Ffs they make an adhesive if you don't want to pull the pan

[Anonymous No.1458903]

>>1458898
Not to mention if you've already got it off the engine, fuck welding it anyway in most cases its fucking cheap as hell to buy a new one.

The cheapest fix is the oversized fucking plug and being careful until it goes, then replacing the whole thing save for maybe a few vehicles where it's designed all shitty so it's a big ass job to do which I assume is what happened in the first video he showed. Now, I didn't watch the hole thing but I'd wager he did something to make sure the weld would be clear of oil and I'd wager that it wasn't easy to do that/was time consuming as fuck and time = money therefore its a stupid fix to consider in most cases which is why we don't offer you guys to fix it that way.
Ffs I'd bet you guys would look at a pos truck with no floorpans left due to rot, an oil pan with a rust hole, frame rotting in half and crashed up rotting body panels and claim its not totalled you could totally fix that.

[Anonymous No.1458906]

>>1458800
Anon, they make special oversized plugs that won't do that. Do a quick google
And you may have never seen it where they come out stripped from the previous monkey but it really does happen. This doesn't prove their honesty but it does. Think about when your hand tightening a bolt and you feel it just barely give away. You know you fuckered it and the right thing to do would be to fix the threads, not everyone does and it won't leak that way either, but you're right, you can still reuse the old plug again if you're super fucking careful and have been a good feel, but I wouldn't recommend it unless it's the only choice.

[Anonymous No.1458928]

>>1458297
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaNls0uuOUs

[Anonymous No.1459147]

>>1458898
>I'm talking about it being a dirty fucking weld which would only make sense to attempt if the job to remove it was a real fucking bear of a job. There's no reason to try to weld oilly metal.
>If only there were this thing called a "lipid" that could clean that oil off metal.

[Anonymous No.1459416]

Why can't you just get a fucking pan and gasket and do it yourself for ~$60
Bolts are not rocket science

[Anonymous No.1459417]

>>1459416
Hold up, just read the thread; you're all total retards. You don't weld those fucking ball valves on for christs sake, they go where the DRAIN PLUG goes and OP's problem is still unsolved. If he just drains the fucking oil and takes off the pan himself he'd be done in 45 minutes at the very fucking most and I'm damn sure he can just get a new pan for cheap or take one off a junkyard wreck for fucking pocket change.

[Anonymous No.1459445]

>>1458297
measure the threads on the plug, see which NPT tap drill it comes closest to (1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, ...3/4???), drill & tap, use teflon tape & a black iron or galvanized or whatever square head plug or hex plug from home depot

[Anonymous No.1459508]

I wouldn't even bother changing the pan. I'd just tap it with the next size up and call it a day.

[Anonymous No.1459514]

>>1458552
>implying oil bursts into flames if flames touch it.

[Anonymous No.1459525]

>>1459514
the way he "welds" produces a lot of heat. In his mind, the oil would vaporize into something combustible.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7pmqdDmD_c

[Anonymous No.1459572]

>>1458328
Why did he drill a separate hole. Wouldnt it be easier to just tap it again and step the size of the bolt up a bit.

[Anonymous No.1459597]

>>1458552
It's fine.
-Guy who welds oily shit everyday

[Anonymous No.1459852]

>>1458297
Tap that motherfucker

[Anonymous No.1459862]

>>1459514
Why would anyone think he thinks that? He's said multiple times about it being dirty
Or are you just trying to get his panties in a bunch again

[Anonymous No.1460075]

>>1459852
You can't tap that. You either 'fix' it with helicoil or replace the damn pan. I say replace the damn pan. Stop telling people to nigger-rig their cars.
t. technician.

[Anonymous No.1460085]

>>1459862

I wish Bepis would come to this thread

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1460096]

>>1460085
You called?

>tfw had a solid 8.5 latina trying to get a date this weekend but not about to give up my 9.5
Would you trade in your new Maserati for a slightly used Fiat? I wouldn’t. I already know that I’m the only person to ever fart in the driver’s seat of that car.

[Anonymous No.1460100]

>>1460096

that tool at the top never worked for me. I drilled out the rivet and use the pieces individually.

[Anonymous No.1460110]

>>1458812
Or you could just spend $50 on a new pan and not fuck around. Sure it might have been aluminum from the factory but there’s usually a ton of aftermarket pans you can get including plastic if you really wanna go cheap.

[Anonymous No.1460111]

>>1460110
>if you really wanna go cheap.

cardboard pls not much mony

[Anonymous No.1460153]

>>1460075
why not? there's more than enough meat on the sides for a pipe tap

[Anonymous No.1460154]

>>1460153
Bubba fucking please.

[Anonymous No.1460243]

Hand-tight means to tighten by your fuckin HAND ONLY

If you've got to put a head on and the steps are:
1: Hand-tighten bolts in seqence
2: Torque bolts to 30 ft lbs
3: Tighten bolts an additional 90 degrees
4: Tighten again an additional 90 degrees

Some of these tards would just go to town with a wrench/ratchet on step 1?
Jesus

[Anonymous No.1460311]

>>1460100
I use needle nose vice grips for most drum jobs. You can even use them to hold the spring on the cable back by pulling it back and clamping the cable

[Anonymous No.1460323]

>>1460243
>crush washer
>hand tight

choose one

[Anonymous No.1461630]

>>1458505
>You keep saying "hand tight", which usually means you tighten with just your fingers.

no, that's 'finger tight', you blockhead.

hand tight is as tight as you can get it with an unpowered tool.

[Anonymous No.1461632]

>>1461630

[Anonymous No.1461634]

>>1461630
>>1461632

any sperg can edit that site.

the definition at sane sites is pic related.

of course, anyone can define any word to be whatever they like, and if in your shop "hand-tight" means using any wrench and tightening as tight as you can, then that's what it means in your shop.

[Anonymous No.1461702]

>>1461634
hand tightened vs. machine tightened

if you hand tighten a screw, without a screw-driver
you are a dumbass that should never be given power tools.

[Anonymous No.1461706]

>>1460096
not sure if brap-posting...

[Anonymous No.1461708]

>>1461702

[Anonymous No.1461820]

>>1461708
Boys got strong fingers tbqh.
My shop doesn't really use hand tight though. Snug is a turn or so passed flush. Flush I think is what a lot of people are saying finger tight is, because we use that interchangeably. We also use "mocked up" which means all fasteners still need tightened, but the part is otherwise installed.
Well say to newbies they can only hand tighten however and mean they're not allowed to use power tools for reassembly to avoid amateur going ham with a power tool.
We generally start giving them permission to use our most powerful air ratchet in a tight spot likely to crush their knuckles because we're dick heads and it was done to us as well...

[Anonymous No.1461849]

>>1458297
Simple, just get a slightly larger tap and buy a suitable bolt then tap it a size up. Run some dirt cheap oil through to make sure any little bits of swarf are out of the bottom of the pan, not that there will be much anyway.

Cost, $50 and an hour of your time max.

[Anonymous No.1462006]

>>1458297
I've done about 100 of these for the boneheads I work with that dont understand tensile strength but can afford the longest wrenches on the tool truck. Easy af.
https://www.amazon.com/Time-Sert-M10x1-5-thread-repair-1015/dp/B00OJDV58K/ref=asc_df_B00OJDV58K/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198057003269&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11154409331646055398&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003978&hvtargid=pla-413925781117&psc=1

[Anonymous No.1462009]

>>1462006
They also come in 12mm

[Anonymous No.1462011]

>>1462009
>>1458297
I've done about 100 of these for the boneheads I work with that dont understand tensile strength but can afford the longest wrenches on the tool truck. Easy af.
https://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-Metric-Kit-Part-1215/dp/B001JK44D4/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1536635851&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=time+sert

[Anonymous No.1462016]

>>1462011
they also come in 14mm

[Anonymous No.1462018]

>>1458417
>helicoils are hack jobs.
Retard detected. Steel Helicoil in an aluminum Honda oil pan will actually stronger than the original threads. Literally better than new.

[Anonymous No.1462025]

>>1462011
And you can get it in there in an MDX with a 3.5L without removing the exhaust pipe. Or you can use a molly plug (pic related), its what the guys that ruin the pans use if I can't get to repairing the pan that moment

[Anonymous No.1462028]

>>1460243
There's actually a torque spec for the drain plug. It's like 8-10 lb-ft
>>1461630
>as tight as you can get it with an unpowered tool.
Too tight. Tell "as tight as you can" to the bozo with the extendo-ratchet from horror freight

[Anonymous No.1462032]

>>1462018
1) helicoil is not a liquid tight seal
2) iron causes a reaction with aluminum will cause corrosion
5) helicoil will unscrew instead of the plug half the time

[Anonymous No.1462436]

>>1462032
Retard detection intensifies. Whatever you say, moron. I've done 100s of these and never had a problem. No leaks. No corrosion. Never come out. Better than new.

[Anonymous No.1464842]

>>1458297
What a coincidence i just fixed this yesterday with plummers tape and liquid rubber gasket.

[Hansol !WXeJR7upbo No.1464999]

take the drain plug out

drill it to 21/64

tap it to 1/8 npt

install a 1/8 npt plug with some thread tape or sealant of some
sort

install drain bolt assembly with some rtv/red loctite/aviation gasket maker/weld/jb weld/silicone/thread tape/hammer it in/silly putty

preferably throw a quick weld along the old drain plug where it meets the pan since it will be fairly thick there with the bung and all

then to do your oil change next time take a 9/16 wrench spin out the 1/8 pipe plug drain the oil put the plug back in and roberts your mothers brother

[Anonymous No.1465336]

>>1464999
>drill it to 21/64
you lost me right there

[Anonymous No.1465654]

>>1465336
>not owning a drill index

[Hansol !WXeJR7upbo No.1466360]

>>1465336

sorry but the metric system is for weirdos

Q drill

a third of an inch roughly