/diy/ - Do It Yourself

[Anonymous No.1446428]

/EMG/Eternal Machining General

The goal of this post is to create a machining general to discuss about tools, materials, questions, resources and so on.
I don't have mych to post on the OP, It will get better with time if people post useful stuff.

>Haas automation videos.
https://www.youtube.com/user/haasautomation/playlists
>Titans of CNC
https://www.youtube.com/user/titanamericanbuilt/playlists

[Anonymous No.1446437]

>>1446428
>/EMG/Eternal Machining General
>The goal of this post is to create a machining general to discuss about tools, materials, questions, resources and so on.
>I don't have mych to post on the OP, It will get better with time if people post useful stuff.
>>Haas automation videos.
>https://www.youtube.com/user/haasautomation/playlists
>>Titans of CNC
>https://www.youtube.com/user/titanamericanbuilt/playlists

>>1446428
Nonsense

[Anonymous No.1446440]

>>1446428
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qq5dFeBhvRQ

[Anonymous No.1446574]

>>1446428
3d printer arrives tomorrow

anyone use 3d printing for rapid prototypes?

[Anonymous No.1446576]

>>1446428
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPIkPGqjBCc

[Anonymous No.1446580]

>>1446574
wouldn't it be pretty expensive way of checking your code?
Also, I feel like you can do a lot of things with one of these things yet I can't imagine what.
where did my imagination go...

[Anonymous No.1446589]

>>1446574
>anyone use 3d printing for rapid prototypes?
yes, when I need to have a fairly expensive part checked for fits and assemblies, and to wow the stupid fucks in the upper management into bankrolling the necessary parts.

>talking with management about turbine blades
>"Why can't we make it out of aluminum? That would save money!"
"Sir, aluminum would melt. We have to use a nickle based alloy like inconel for it to last."
>Project manager gets mad because he won't get his bonus if we spend too much money on this project.
>"Fine! just don't spend more than 30k on it.
>spend another 2 weeks asking for more funds to complete this job
please god kill me or give me managers that aren't greedy, stupid, fucks.


can't wait for my small machine shop business to really kick off

[Anonymous No.1446592]

>>1446580
as soon as you have stuff to play with you start getting less inventive.

as they say, necessity is the mother of all invention. Materialistic lust is a great motivator.

[Anonymous No.1446597]

anyone got anything they've machined recently?

[Anonymous No.1446601]

>>1446597
Well yeah, but I don't want to post it.

Messy workbench time?

[Anonymous No.1446602]

>>1446601

[Anonymous No.1446705]

>>1446580
>wouldn't it be pretty expensive way of checking your code?

no, not at all. especially if you have to test fit parts together and that means small change, machine fixtures, machine part

been through like $200+ of aluminum doing that shit already

[Anonymous No.1446729]

>>1446428
>diy plastic injection molding machine

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABeio9yOtkI

[Anonymous No.1446733]

>>1446597
funny you should ask. this is what the past 2 weeks ive been working on. did a test cut in lexan on saturday. bellows removed for pic because im using dryer vent robot arms and it reflects a lot of light

[Anonymous No.1446734]

>>1446733
that's pretty neat, what kind of ways are those? square?

[Anonymous No.1446741]

x30mm(ish) Y40mm ish z90mm+ idk how much. y and z are 6mm ballscrews with 1mm pitch(THK KR20), x is 5mm ballscrew with 1mm(THK kr15). spindle is a 42mm BLDC with ER8 collet holder and 2 708AC bearings almost everything is cast iron and surface ground on all mating parts. vise isnt mounted, all my tooling plates are still in progress, collet holder plate needs grinding

>>1446729
i see your manual style and raise you with this. the only thing i dont like about it is that its russian, but this is essentially the design im making but out of cast iron instead
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gJ0PDWs0iU

[Anonymous No.1446744]

>>1446733
>>1446734
did you surface grind the column ways?

[Anonymous No.1446749]

>>1446741
that is pretty neat, why cast iron? just want the foundry for other stuff, or need more clamping force?

[Anonymous No.1446751]

>>1446734
4 circuit linear rail. my main unit is to use crossed roller stages, this is just my compromise fuck around project

[Anonymous No.1446766]

>>1446751
What kind of accuracy?

[Anonymous No.1446767]

>>1446751
and why the seemingly boutique rail guide? Just because it's a fully assembled unit?

[Anonymous No.1446768]

>>1446744
anything mounting to anything, the rail face to the column , the column to the base, ect
>>1446749
cast iron is homogeneous something, so there is no grain to the metal, so there should be very little warpage if any, also good vibration dampening. its also p easy to machine and looks so sexy once ground, but its so fucking messy and grinding it hurts my nose, i sneeze black shit for like a week

spindle is a seperate unit from this project, its main job is live tooling on my millturn project , its made of almost all O1. making proper spindles was the hardest part. the gantry i made in a few weeks, but the spindles took me years of research and trial and error and the fuckign preload spacers were done .0005'' at a time such a pain in the ass. this is spindle 6, im currently working on the final spindle design spindle7. unfortunately nothing is every final

[Anonymous No.1446772]

>>1446768
the real pro tip for grinding is to run a vacuum to sweep up all the dust, otherwise just a full face shield and maybe one of those mouth+nose masks

>>1446751
oh so you want it to handle lifting forces and all the random vibrations of machining better than a normal way surface?

[Anonymous No.1446777]

>>1446768
I've been looking into creating a simple low-speed spindle to make a shop made copy of a Harig spin fixture, I don't know what I need to know yet. I suspect it's a simple bronze bearing bore with a tool steel spindle shaft, and either a taper on the end opposite the nut or a thrust bearing or something. Any idea how those are done? It has to be super accurate.

http://harigmfg.com/spinindexer.html

[Anonymous No.1446784]

>>1446766
not gonna lie, i aint indicating shit. at least not till im more finished with this project. indicating tends to put a damper on my projects and causes me to lose all momentum. the spindle is sitting high at .0006" runnout, because i havent done a final grind on the collet bore yet . i dont have enough motors to use my grinding spindle. repeatability on the stages are less than 0.00mm, i currently have no backlash, these ballscrews have a nice preload.

>>1446767
theres a few reasons for that,
easy of use, easy as fuck to use and mount 4-6 bolts per axis
scale, at this scale, almost all linear rails are 2 rows of balls instead of 4. when you get up into rails 15mm(standard profiles) and up, they start being 4 rows, small rails (5mm,7,9,12mm) are all 2 rows making them a lot less ridged . the rails one these stages are integrated, and the balls contact the rail in a different way as well from the outside of the carriage like in the pic i posted. size for size these are the most ridged linear rails i can get before moving to crossed roller bearings
cost is the last reason, $150-200(used) from ebay for one of these units. thats basically THK ballscrew, THK rail, THK bearing blocks, motor mount and coupler. i could spend thjat much on new chinese shit or used THK, which is sooo much fucking better than my chinese shit.

pic is my harmonic gearbox for my 4th axis still in progress

[Anonymous No.1446797]

>>1446777
the way your describing is how we made them in school (pic related, at the end of every year i was in school i looted the scrap bin and took all the projects for next year they were throwing out, incase i fucked up mine) the actual whirlyjigs use crossed roller bearings for max accuracy and rigidity. i know i say crossed roller a lot but for linear low speed rotational, they are the top of the line
beside it is a pic of my high/low speed with harmonic gearbox and 4x angular contact bearings. i use angular contact bearings instead of crossed roller because my spindle is also highspeed.

>>1446772
>vac
the grinder i use has a vacuum but never fucking seems to work, i put my shirt over my nose, but its even while mchining on my mill, its just powder.
>lifting forces n shit
it was mostly for wear and speed purposes, but i also dont want to make/grind a lot of shit even more

[Anonymous No.1446801]

>>1446797
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/09212747

[Anonymous No.1448496]

Welp, I'm just about to machine some wonderful soft jaw fixtures. When the 1/8 endmill gets here from msc.

I plan to make bolt-together aluminum pieces (makeshift vises) and put them on a pallet now because my other fixtures suck.

[Anonymous No.1448526]

>>1446733
That's the mini-est mini mill I have ever seen.

[Anonymous No.1448606]

thoughts on the Proxxon PD 250/E? looking to get into machining but my apartment doesn't have much space.

[Anonymous No.1448618]

>>1448606
that actually looks pretty decent

[Anonymous No.1449652]

Can any anon reccomend a site to buy supplies? I need to get about everything. cobalt drill bits, micrometers, safety glasses, guages, thread gauges, clamps, ect. Theres nothing local. I already raided harbor garbage for the bullshit like deadblow hammers, but I'm down to needing good calipers and the like.

I know i can find places like MSC direct, but I'm hoping you anons know a more ma&pa type store that had more competitive prices

[Anonymous No.1449662]

>>1449652
used on ebay is usually the best

[Anonymous No.1449685]

>>1449652
>ma&pa type store
>for machinist goods
>implying

Does this exist? Has this EVER existed? The closest I've ever seen is some metal yards that will have some metalworking equipment, supplies, and consumables, but their selection is paltry compared to even the most meager manufacturer/distrubutor's catalogue.

[Anonymous No.1449688]

>>1449685
https://littlemachineshop.com/default.php

Missing blank tool bits and a few other things, but they do exist.

[Anonymous No.1449707]

>>1449688

I mean, yeah, but I'm not sure I can really consider an internet retailer to be "mom and pop"...

Especially with how crap their parking lot is.

[Anonymous No.1449710]

Does anyone have any complete mechanical mechanism plans ? Like for exmaple stirling engine

[Anonymous No.1449972]

>>1449710
this, anyone knows where you can get blueprints?

[Anonymous No.1450004]

>>1449972
>blueprints

[Anonymous No.1450087]

>be me
>getting good at this CNC shit, let machine run while browsing the internet and dicking off
>30 minutes later start seeing advertisements for "Mazak smartlink, manage your machine from anywhere!"

How the fuck does google know?

[Anonymous No.1450089]

>>1450087
was either using the laptop in the shop or listening to me via the laptop's mic

[Anonymous No.1450284]

if you wanted to make something like this
but maybe in brass for ease
what tools would you use ?

[Anonymous No.1450290]

>>1450284
Sine bar or sine plate or even just a way to clamp down a piece of stock and a way to measure the angle accurately.

There are a million ways to do that. Personally I would probably CNC mill it, and it would probably be pretty damn close.

If it has to be more accurate than woodwork accurate a sine bar/sine plate on a grinding vise on the surface grinder.

[Anonymous No.1450306]

https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/blog/august-22-2018-product-update-whats-new/

Fusion 360 update buckos

[Anonymous No.1450760]

Any tips on tapping carpenter custom 465? Just had to take 4x 10-32 to .900" depth. Was using there flute spiral point taps and heavy tapping oil. Was one of the most miserable experiences tapping other than the ones where I straight broke a tap. It was about 1.5 taps per hole.

[Anonymous No.1450772]

>>1450284
There's a cheap way for ok accuracy (thinking it should be ok since you're just making it out of soft stuff). You do need a mill though unless your scribe/center punch game is really godly. You basically just take a plate, drill a hole and ream to some size you have a dowel pin. Then move and drill/ream another hole with x and y numbers that would be on the angle you're looking for ( for example, (2.000,2.000) for 45 degrees etc). Then stick pins through the two holes, set it in the vice with the pins level on the top of the vice (plate is vertical) and that should have tilted the work piece the necessary angle for you to cut.

[Anonymous No.1450925]

>>1450760
Step "down" to 55-60% thread and start with a taper tap. Get 2 flute taps, they're more rigid.

[Anonymous No.1450948]

how difficult is it to get a 300lbs lathe up a flight of stairs?

[Anonymous No.1450962]

>>1450948
Put it on a sled and drag it up with a rope

[Anonymous No.1450971]

>>1450925
I did end up stepping down to less thread engagement. Forgot to mention. I will get some two fluters next time though. It was seriously miserable.

>>1450948
Did you take off the motor/chuck/compound/tailstock? Depending on the design, you can consider taking off the cross slide too. I wouldn't take off the carriage though. Also change gears if applicable.

[Anonymous No.1450982]

>>1450971
It still hasn't come in yet, but disassembling is a good idea. thanks!

[Anonymous No.1450992]

>>1450760
A CNC and a threadmill might make that go better. I don't really know though, my limited experience with stainless is turning and threading, got a beautiful finish on it and the threads worked. Stainless on stainless wants to gall together though, which kind of sucks.

[Anonymous No.1450994]

>>1450925
but anon, on endmills the more flutes the more material left in the center because less deep chip gullets hence a more rigid tool

[Anonymous No.1450995]

>>1450992
>threadmill a 10-24
lol

>>1450994
It's almost like taps and endmills are different tools.

[Anonymous No.1451016]

>>1450995
oh shit no wonder you're having problems, a tiny ass tap will snap like a pretzel

same concept should apply though

[Anonymous No.1451017]

>>1450995
https://www.mmsonline.com/videos/thread-milling-on-a-tiny-scale

[Anonymous No.1451020]

>>1451016
I'm not the anon doing the tapping but it's well known a 2 flute tap is far less likely to snap than a 4 flute one.


>>1451017
I'm not saying you can't, but unless it's in something hard as fuck or so gummy it won't make proper chips with a tap it's not worth it.

[Anonymous No.1451024]

>>1451020
I assumed it was because the chips packed into the smaller gullets on higher flute count taps.

If OP can give the tap a reverse direction turn every once in a while to break the chips it might help out.

So what kind of machine are you using? Tapping a special stainless variant for #10-32 screws, how deep, is it a through-hole?

[Anonymous No.1451028]

>>1451024
>I assumed it was because the chips packed into the smaller gullets on higher flute count taps.
Yes, I'm sorry. Rigid was the wrong word, I was pretty drunk earlier. It's more about chip clearance, yeah but there's also less friction so they can be easier to hand tap with sometimes too.

[Anonymous No.1451050]

Holy shit, check out this mini lathe design.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQ332KGc-6M

Thing looks fabulous, a hardened and ground steel round rod for one side of the bed, and a square bar for the other side. Some end plates and a plate to connect the ends.

This mini lathe design looks almost /diy/ worthy, as in, mechanically simple enough for a small workshop to make.

[Anonymous No.1451068]

>>1451024
I did try that. It made it worse. I was using a spiral point tap anyway so it was pushing the chip ahead of the tap (through hole). C465 is a stainless that is pretty much one of the most miserable things I have had to tap through. I think the reversing just work hardens things for no real benefit. The best method I found was to just keep cranking it until it felt really sketchy. Then switch to a bottom tap to take out the progressively cut non-full size threads, then restart with the plug tap. I was just on a Bridgeport manual but I was tapping by hand.

This is only my second encounter with C465, the first time being on a NC lathe where it was also miserable. Would not break a chip. Would instead chip the insert. Made a huge fucking mess all over the inside of the machine. Basically made concertina wire. Was just as sharp and entangling. Had to stop to clear chips ridiculously often. Chip conveyor did nothing. It was just a random one off thing so I just pushed through.

[Anonymous No.1451100]

>>1451068
how silly would it be to try a carbide tap on it?

also I think they make progressive taps for crazy materials like you're working with. I've never seen one in person but I heard they exist.

[Anonymous No.1451104]

>>1451068
https://www.natool.com/engineering-data/tap-style-guide

[Anonymous No.1451105]

>>1451104
hmm thread forming taps take a lot of horsepower and might just snap off in your material... But it displaces the material instead of cutting it.

the interrupted thread tap's description sounds like it fits your application, but of course I've never used one.

[Anonymous No.1451112]

>>1451105
That will just work harden it.

[Anonymous No.1451184]

>>1446574
We are constantly printing parts before sending the designs to China.
This part went through ~7 revisions before manufacture - it's an insert for a (Chinese) made handle, to cover over their rough edges and provide a nicer shape to grip.
Without a 3d printer to prototype it would simply have been to expensive to get this part made correctly for such a small run. I think the order was only for ~500 pieces.

[Anonymous No.1451185]

>>1446574
We are constantly printing parts before sending the designs to China.
This part went through ~7 revisions before manufacture - it's an insert for a (Chinese) made handle, to cover over their rough edges and provide a nicer shape to grip.
Without a 3d printer to prototype it would simply have been too expensive to get this part made correctly for such a small run. I think the order was only for ~500 pieces.

[Anonymous No.1451186]

>>1451185
note the part is curved, whereas the design isn't - my chinese friend ignored the drawing I provided and modelled the part off our print, including the warped ABS!
the design was done in sketchup, because I'm a mad lad

[Anonymous No.1451202]

can you get into machining with only a lathe (for a time) as a benchtop tool? getting a lathe AND a mill is pretty expensive. Would it be too much of an impediment to just do the spinny spinny

[Anonymous No.1451203]

>>1451202

You can get "into machining" with a file and a bottle of layout fluid. You'll always be limited by your tools and your own ability to work around those limitations. Doesn't matter what you start with, 'cause you'll always be looking to improve both.

[Anonymous No.1451271]

>>1451185
>Chinese
Enjoy your shit

[Anonymous No.1451862]

>>1451202
>>1451203

Well it clearly does matter. Some tools let you do a broader variety of things. Lathe vs Mill is a pretty good question and I think yeah you can do stuff with a just a file, but I think people can do better than just saying essentially it depends

[Anonymous No.1452096]

>>1451202
mill can do mill turning on small parts

[Anonymous No.1452153]

>>1446428
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92ztzCP76ho

[Anonymous No.1452173]

>>1450925

Consideration must also be given to the number of flutes on the tap.
With small holes, a tap with four flutes is more likely to produce chip
congestion than one with fewer flutes. Therefore, general practice is to
use a tap with fewer flutes as the size of the hole decreases. Specifically,
two-fluted taps may be used for holes up to about 0.125 in. (3 mm) in
diameter; three-fluted taps for holes between 0.125 in. (3 mm) and 0.500 in.
(13 mm); and four-fluted taps for larger holes.

[Anonymous No.1452178]

>>1451068
Holy shit I know the feel... tapping funny stainless is always tricky. Could have been worse, 10-24 in stainless is always a pita and should never be used. Had to hand-tap 40 holes of M55x2 thread in 4140ht and I'd prefer that to 20 holes of 10-24 in stainless.

[Anonymous No.1452179]

>>1451271
/diy/ everyone.
Ordering from Chinese is like finding good Pizza restaurant.
When you find the right place you stick with it.

[Anonymous No.1452183]

>>1451202
It's easier to find productions for a lathe since turny-turny things have the habit of wearing quickly compared to fixed things you can do on a mill. BUT! Milling is a lot more fun.

[Anonymous No.1452217]

How much should someone pay for a basic 7 drawer kennedy box?
There is one near me that looks to be in ok shape for $65

Also are they a machinist meme or is it worth actually buying one?

[Anonymous No.1452219]

>>1452217

[Anonymous No.1452223]

>>1452219
Also is there anything to look out for in general other than rust and dents and the obvious?

[Anonymous No.1452566]

>>1452179
Even then quality can fluctuate because they just don't care that much

[Anonymous No.1452571]

>>1452217
Mostly a meme. The billion tiny drawers are supposed to be for holding endmills and small stuff like that.

[Anonymous No.1452636]

>>1446428
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WN1usZ2K8xI

[Anonymous No.1452644]

>>1452217
Kennedys are pretty damn nice toolboxes, got my Dad's old toolboxes when he died, they're still in good shape for being 30+ years old.

I use cheap Huot bins for my stuff, the roller ball bearing kennedy and craftsman boxes are great for holding heavy stuff (and are not cheap new even today), I have a lot of small light weight tooling to deal with that the plane jane huot boxes work well for.

[Anonymous No.1452645]

>>1452571
i have two of the end mill drawers (the cheap version without roller ball bearings and a key lock), a fractional tap drawer, a machine screw tap drawer, a wire gauge drill drawer, some drill stands, etc.

still need the reamer boxes and the letter drill box

[Anonymous No.1452646]

>>1452644

>>1452223
wow, that thing looks fantastic. for $65 you'd be an idiot not to buy it.

[Anonymous No.1452648]

>>1452646

[Anonymous No.1452689]

>>1448606
Avoid any small tool that you can lift by yourself.

Find a MakerSpace with a good metalworking shop and has an actual lathe.

[Anonymous No.1452696]

>>1452645
>i have two of the end mill drawers (the cheap version without roller ball bearings and a key lock), a fractional tap drawer, a machine screw tap drawer, a wire gauge drill drawer, some drill stands, etc.
Then you would probably be better served with a more traditional tool box. Though like the other anon said, $65 is pretty good.

[Anonymous No.1452704]

>>1452696
im not the guy looking at the toolbox, same guy that already has kennedy chests

the huot bins are more useful for finding what you want quickly with individually labeled partitions

[Anonymous No.1453436]

Finally finished my manufacturing associates this spring. I'm thinking about applying to some entry level jobs that Boeing and Lockheed have, since nobody local is hiring machinists without 10 years of experience, and they all require a SF86. Anybody ever do one of them before?

[Anonymous No.1453437]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeKreZqgi9M

[Anonymous No.1453505]

Soooo...

What's up with EDM? It is certainly used, and pretty popular. What are the main drawbacks compared to CNC machining?

If you can have an EDM shop burn out a part with a combination of sinker edm and edm drilling and cutting, why use the CNC shop?

Is the EDM process more time consuming? Use a lot of electricity?

How much slower than CNC machining?

[Anonymous No.1453510]

>>1453505
https://edmprecision.com/advantages-and-disadvantages-edm/

Disadvantages
Only able to machine conductive materials
More expensive process than conventional milling or turning

[Anonymous No.1453512]

>>1453510
>>1453505
https://metalcutting.com/%E2%80%ACwire%E2%80%AD-%E2%80%ACcut%E2%80%AD-%E2%80%ACedm-advantages-disadvantages/

this is a pretty good explanation, it appears.

[Anonymous No.1453612]

>>1453505
>How much slower than CNC machining?
Like, stupidly slower.

[Anonymous No.1454605]

I'm going to CNC-router an area in a desk so that a 30" cinema display stand/foot can fit snug and flush to the desk top.

Found a shop that can do it for me, but how should I measure the foot / create the vector file?

I will scan the foot. How do I set the correct distance scale or whatever? Do I need to include a 1"x1" square in the scan?

Does anyone have a beginning guide to doing this?

[Anonymous No.1454636]

>>1453505
"CNC" just means it is under computer control. Certain EDM's, namely wire EDM's are usually CNC, that is, controlled by a computer controller.

The disadvantages of EDM depend on the type of EDM. For wire, the wire is continually consumed and is not very cheap (usually brass). Material removal is slow depending on various factors like thickness and material type.

Sinker EDM's, unless you are making basic bitch shapes (which incidentally are pretty much NEVER worth it for an EDM) still require you to make an electrode (usually CNC machined through conventional means) that is the inverse of the cavity you want to cut. The electrode is time consuming to make and even more time consuming to use. And since it is consumed as you "cut", you may need to make multiple to establish an accurate final shape.

Also, only conductive materials can be cut.

I don't know if it uses more juice than a typical NC center (sure they zap stuff with electricity, but in return they don't need a bunch of beefy motors, just puny ones to pump the electrolyte, spool the wire, drive the much lighter drives, etc). But the time factor alone is pretty killer.

They are pretty awesome though. They cut aluminum or inconel with the same ease (relatively, it cuts aluminum quite quickly but with no additional hardship like with normal machining processes). Can cut through carbide or hardened steel etc. And can be extremely accurate.

[Anonymous No.1454657]

>>1454605
Include a ruler or other known reference in your picture and use that to scale it. What CAD software are you using? You should be able to send them a .dxf

[Anonymous No.1454664]

>>1454605
By "scanning", do you mean 3D scan?
If not, just measure lenght. Scan to .bmp with a normal scanner... save as monochrome and clean up everything but the border. Download a free .bmp to .dxf converter... convert to .dxf. Open dxf in "sketch up", autocad, or mastercam. Measure lenght in the dxf. Select all, xform, scale. Enter ratio (real world lenght divided by dxf lenght). Create drafting in your drawing so the shop knows what's up, add note for desired depth of the pocket.

[Anonymous No.1454678]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrWskHpk3oo

heh don't say I didn't warn you about the e-z outs

[Anonymous No.1454704]

>>1454678
They might not be the best, but it's not like you've got a hell of a lot of options by the time you have to resort to one.

[Anonymous No.1454705]

>>1454704
maybe so, but a left handed drill bit is probably better.

[Anonymous No.1454709]

>>1454705
It's all a matter of what sort of setup you can do, if you've got a drill press and a good way to hold the part left handed drill bits work reasonably well, but if all you've got are hand tools the advantage of the ez-out is that it's way harder to drill off center and fuck your threads because of their taper, although if your not heavy handed you should be able to feel when the fastener is about to yield and try other methods before you pass the point of no return, heat and penetrating oil work wonders.

[Anonymous No.1454711]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbMbFvsRTJo

[Anonymous No.1454945]

How do I start learning G code? I want to start practicing by myself with some easy part just for training but the problem is that I don't know how to start. Example:
A square with a hole in the middle.I want to make the square of some certain measure and then the hole. it's simple. no fucking clue on how do I even start.
>hurrr, adjusting the vice
I'm atlking just about code here, I know most of problems will come later in the form on "how the fuck do I tie this damn thing?"

[Anonymous No.1454953]

>>1454945

https://www.google.com/url?q=https://diy.haascnc.com/mill-programming-workbook&sa=U&ved=0ahUKEwjW1ZzpkJXdAhUNJnwKHaKuCn4QFggLMAA&usg=AOvVaw2GNjmP44vC-1avUd1IXkgc

[Anonymous No.1455035]

Anyone using a fast spinny rock?

[Vinyl No.1455084]

my home lathe has too much slop any ideas aside from tighin the gibs

[Anonymous No.1455088]

>>1455084

I put mine on a horizontal surface and that helped a lot.

[Vinyl No.1455096]

>>1455088
haha but no seriously

[Vinyl No.1455098]

>>1455088

[Vinyl No.1455100]

>>1455098
anyone know what kinda model / brand this is

[Anonymous No.1455137]

>>1455084
How much slop and what kind are you talking about, I've found that tons of small lathes like that are perfectly usable in terms of slop on the ways but people expect way more than they're capable of, they really don't have the horsepower to run carbide in any meaningful capacity so you might want to stick to HSS tooling.

[Vinyl No.1455148]

>>1455137
1/8 side to side / front to back :(

[Anonymous No.1455154]

>>1455148
Front to back is just old backlash. You dont "take it out" you compensate for it when you are turning.
Side to side slop? Tighten your gibs, its what they are made for.

Also lock down the gibs for the stuff you arent using during your cuts. It can get tedious but will immensly help out smaller lathes.

Say you are facing a piece, lock your compound and saddle down so they wont move and have your crossslide firm but can still move.

[Anonymous No.1455159]

>>1455148
What your talking about there is backlash not slop and that's pretty high but as long as the ways still run squareish it's nothing you can't compensate for, none of the handwheels are going to be free of backlash, even if they could come perfect from the factory since the leadscrew is so tight they would make their own backlash pretty quickly.

To use the micrometer dials on the handwheel you need to pay attention to what side of the backlash your on, for example if you need to move the cross slide out 50 thou go out until you feel the lead screw take up the backlash and move past where you need to go and then move the wheel in to where you want to be, if you just turned the handwheel out by 50 thou you'd probably still be somewhere in the backlash and the cross slide wouldnt've moved.

[Anonymous No.1455241]

>>1454664

not 3D, just a good flatbed scanner to get the footprint. Will measure the 1/4" or whatever height.

By "just measure length" you mean take a measurement independent of the scan, then use that measurement to scale the scan?

[Anonymous No.1455261]

>>1455035
I did for tool grinding as part of my apprenticeship. Haven't done the parts grinding part yet. Did surface grinding though.

[Vinyl No.1455266]

>>1455261
what was the worst part of that

[Anonymous No.1455563]

>>1455035
hmm

ways are uncovered??? if you see black oil appearing after running your carriage back and forth a few times it's from the abrasive lapping your carriage away.

>>1455084
do you really mean slop or backlash?

[Anonymous No.1455573]

what tooling do you need to make black powder cannons?

[Anonymous No.1455611]

>>1455573
lathe, spade drill, maybe a mill

[Anonymous No.1455774]

>>1455573
How big of a cannon are you talking about?

[Anonymous No.1455810]

>>1455563
err the ways are always covered, thats just the bed, its not a regular lathe

[Anonymous No.1455857]

>>1455266
When you have to make a big diameter tool with a skinny shank. You are sitting there plunging for ever over and over again. It's just monotonous hand work at that point. Other than that, it was not bad. A little dirty like all grinding (the grinding dust and neon green coolant combine to form a paste that cakes over stuff over time). The work is interesting and very high precision though. The only other thing that kind of sucks is when you have brazed carbide tools that require you to hit a little of the carbide and steel on the same pass. You used the diamond wheel for carbide but it's not right for the steel so it loads up rapidly.

[Anonymous No.1455933]

>>1455857
If you get the right combination of wheel and material, like they say it will disintegrate the wheel and expose new fresh cutting edges instead of loading up.

It's easier to find a wheel that does that for harder stuff like dowel pins.

You can get away without dressing the wheel for a lot longer when roughing with the right wheel.

[Anonymous No.1456027]

>>1455774
I plan on getting a 10x18 benchtop lathe

[Anonymous No.1456028]

>>1455774
12 inches maybe. I'm still saving up for my lathe btw

[Anonymous No.1456411]

How fucked is being a machinist these days?
I recently got into 3d printing and I dont think ive ever had as much drive to learn anything as much as I have 3d modelling and Gcode, I've learned quite a bit on my own but unfortunately no one is hiring 3d printer specialists yet
One of the local community colleges has a "world class" CNC course with options up to 6 semesters, the last handful being mostly business and accounting classes, I've been considering taking the one semester skill certificate and trying it out

[Anonymous No.1456441]

>>1456411
It's pretty good if you can find a decent shop, and even better if you have you own and can find work, you'd probably be better off trying to find someone you can apprentice under rather than going through a community college course, there are no real certificates/certs in this trade that are really worth much.

Most employers are going to mainly rely on your past work experience/references and how "competent" you come off as in the interview, they'll also probably also want to have you do a trial period of a few days to a week that you work at the shop and they see if they like how you work, however that might change depending on how much of your own equipment you bring.

[Anonymous No.1456451]

>>1456411
>How fucked is being a machinist these days?
Bad for old machinists in the Chicago area.
Companies are hiring teenagers and the new government program pays to train them.
They only learn one job, they do what they are told without question, and they don't talk back telling the employer how much better it would be, if they did it this way, or that way.

[Anonymous No.1456463]

>>1456441
I figured most places would want some kind of "official" background for the programming and more technical stuff
Hows the market for independent shops, I dont have any original designs or products, but I would love to start my own milling/printing shop

[Anonymous No.1456532]

What is everyone elses shops like?
Current or prior.
What was the training like and what were the managers like.

I just started working in a tool grinding shop and the management style seems really weird and unorthodox.

Since we regrind dull tools or manufacture new custom carbide tools to order, you can get caught up with your work.
Apparently in other shops you can get sent home early if there is no work left. You will "never be punished" for finishing work.
Here you are encouraged to get your work caught up or done and then go off on your own and crosstrain at any other part in the shop. Or you go actively looking for problems in processes or systems in the shop to try and change them. If you can give them a compelling argument to change something, they will experiment and do it. (unless its a huge change that affects everyone, which then during our meetings we will brainstorm and discuss its merits)

I dont actually have a real job title, im floating around crosstraining learning all sorts of different stuff. CNC work, manual work, check in and shipping work, I have even done a few local deliveries.
They said they only care about using me to my strengths instead of sticking me into whatever position of need they have and I havent quite found a perfect spot yet.

I cant complain because im getting paid more than double minimum wage for relatively easy work that I am interested in. And this is the most laid back and comfortable work environment ive ever seen.
Its not quite the machining job I was looking for when I decided to start looking, but I like it. And the fact that in my "spare" work time I am learning fusion 360 to design custom carbide tooling to vague customer specs to manufacture them on a CNC. Thats experience I can take somewhere else to a real machining job, or use on my own. Most of the machinist jobs I tried for were either temp worker jobs that got rid of button pushers before they could get benefits, or they were looking for experience.

[Anonymous No.1456536]

>>1456532
"entrepreneur" with a small shop here, had hoped to get all the cad/cam/fixture maching R&D stuff done before the end of the year, got 3 months left. Completion is rapidly approaching though.

[Anonymous No.1456593]

OP, stop being a fag and have some decent machining shit. Haas does have average-tier tips buried in mountains of shilling, but titans of cnc is literally the most braindead ancient aliens shlock imaginable.

>abom79 is a good channel for manual machining and good "big old iron" work
https://www.youtube.com/user/Abom79

>ThisOldTony provides great videos in the range of hobby garage machining
https://www.youtube.com/user/featony

>Clickspring shows what can be done with truly rudimentary tools
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCworsKCR-Sx6R6-BnIjS2MA

>Robrenz is a wealth of high precision machining, toolmaking, and metrology
https://www.youtube.com/user/ROBRENZ/

>Joe Pieczynski has good tips for the budding machinist on a variety of topics mostly related to manual machining
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpp6lgdc_XO_FZYJppaFa5w

>NYC CNC is half-decent most of the time if you can get past the tormach shilling bullshit
https://www.youtube.com/user/saunixcomp

[Anonymous No.1456672]

>>1456593
my tormach is working out ok btw, the time consuming part for me is figuring out what I want, and then modeling it, then modeling updated fixtures to hold it, then machining new fixtures before I can machine the updated part

[Anonymous No.1456679]

>>1456593
I would add Steve Summers

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CX92C3klOiY

and maybe https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Zy3yElAWwI

and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1oASjbm2F8

and https://www.youtube.com/user/Threadexpress

and this guy does aluminum and steel casting (cool) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzaz39hUUKM

and for old iron and restoring it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nc5Z_Mo2J0Y&t=0s

and this guy isn't particularly funny, but sometimes interesting https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4vaszLFBOE

and stefan gotteswinter https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJgXH6K9GIU&t=1s

and another guy that does metal castings https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5pu3hJ7SZE

and watch this redneck build a million dollar business in his barn https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4aP3SIWIVlY&t=0s

and this guy isn't too big an idiot https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDJOJSBXswo

[Anonymous No.1456688]

>>1456593
I'd also add Edge Precision to that, although the guy does a lot more 5 axis cnc type of things he's incredibly knowledgeable on everything from basic manual machining to tool and cutter grinding.

>https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCkSr3M8GXbS4txqPY7OMxQ/featured

[Anonymous No.1456697]

>>1456688
already have him on my addendum

check out this guy's new toy

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3JhOk2bmVQ

[Anonymous No.1456707]

>>1456672
Tormach is fucking gay. It's not something I would put in my shop. My buddy had one for a bit because it was cheaper than a haas minimill and he didn't want to spend a bit of money. Literally the thing comes from the factory with huge amounts of backlash. The company gives no help when alleviating this. They linked him nycnc videos for help.

Eventually he returned the thing and bought a used mazak vtc and has had no problem with it for years now.

[Anonymous No.1456712]

>>1456697

I watched the first 3 minutes. How retarded do you have to be to think that you have to show every fucking hole. People should have to go to a five minute school where they learn how to edit a video to remove worthless garbage. His 14 minute video probably has about 60 seconds of content.

[Anonymous No.1456720]

>>1456707
how much is a huge amount of backlash? I have less than a thou in all axes. Generally milling machines aren't super duper accurate anyway.

How accurate is a new VMC?

[Anonymous No.1456775]

>>1456532
Grinding IS machining. Tool grinding in particular I find is pretty interesting. Don't breathe the carbide dust (or I guess dust in general isn't great, but carbide dust is pretty bad) but it sounds like you found a pretty good job.

[Anonymous No.1456779]

>>1456775
i think they call it abrasive machining

[Anonymous No.1456814]

>>1456720
A CNC mill actually made for proper work should have no discernible backlash because they work differently than a knee mill. It should also be accurate to +-.0001 up to a decent feed rate. Most won't do that at 700ipm but it should at 50.

[Anonymous No.1456872]

Tormachs are a bad idea for many reasons.

1. They have very little customer support if something goes wrong. It is likely to go wrong because they're batch-tested under no-load and built by the very most corner-cutting cheap shit methods.

2. They're stepper motors, not servos.

3. They are very weak in every way on top of not having servos.

4. They're expensive for what you get relatively speaking.

5. Non-indexing spindle. No rigid tapping, no spindle indexing for stuff like mill-broaching, no locking the feedrate to the spindle RPM.

6. Axis backlash because it's not ballscrew ways for production CNCs that have zero/near zero backlash.

A 20 year old used production quality true CNC machine will be about the same price, have proper axis servos, true ballscrew ways, more power, spindle indexing, repeatably accurate, quality materials and manufacturing practices, actual customer support, a fuckton of rigidity, and more.

Tormachs are pretty much for idiots that have no clue what they're doing and just think they'll get a cheap and simple easy setup. They won't.

Used Mazak, Microcut/Challenger, Haas, Feeler, Fanuc (robodrill), Brothers, Enshu, Okuma, Matsuura, Daewoo, Cincinati, Digi Mori, Doosan, Hurco, Hyundai, Mitsubishi, Mori Seiki, the list goes on. They will all literally crush a Tormach in every way and you can often find them for around the same price on the used market. The only advantage a Tormach will have over literally any of these will be that they're cheaper to ship because they don't weigh as much. Because they're not rigid for shit, so even that is a bit of a hollow pro.

Oh and don't buy anything with a Fagor controller.

[Anonymous No.1457009]

>>1456872
This, it's basically a glorified bridgeport with an EZ-track. If you really need a low cost, brand new CNC mill, a TM-1 is far more worth the money.

[Anonymous No.1457012]

>>1457009
The difference between a Bridgeport conversion and a Tormach is that the Bridgeport is actually built properly with quality materials, assembled, and checked to ensure it does what it should do.

If you really can't acquire a used good CNC or an entry-level Haas, you're still better off with a Bridgeport-type (lilian, excello, there are tons of copies that still work fine) than a Tormach. Bridgeport-types have really good aftermarket and they've been around for so long that there's literally everything under the sun out there to fix it or get it working properly if it's used and a little beat up, not to mention all the homebrew CNC conversion things. Even if the CNC kit is cheap, the machine itself is still decent and has pretty good capabilities.

[Anonymous No.1457015]

>>1457012
>The difference between a Bridgeport conversion and a Tormach is that the Bridgeport is actually built properly with quality materials, assembled, and checked to ensure it does what it should do.
True, that was pretty unfair to compare bridgeport to that shit.

[Anonymous No.1457041]

>>1457012
Truth all the way.

My pro machinistbro makes obscene amounts of money with his EZ Traks because his specialty is repair machining and small parts runs. He has other machines too of course. I replaced the floppy drives on his with USB adapters and they're good for another zillion years. Easy to work on all around.

[Anonymous No.1457044]

Here's some cool machining videos to help OP out along with the aforeposted channels in the thread.

>ignore clickbait title and prepare to get your mind blown at the 4:26 mark after the general awesome machining and really good CNC programming with details like the through-drilling cycle performing a rapid move after drilling one side of the cylinder to drill through the other
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hsKdlq99KSc

>The super lathe is just awesome start to finish holy shit look at those fucking CHIPS GODDAMN
https://youtu.be/j87WW-jGmrU

[Anonymous No.1457207]

Anyone ever tried making an RC jet engine?

https://grabcad.com/library/rc-jet-engine-3

[Anonymous No.1457217]

what can't you do with a lathe?

[Anonymous No.1457224]

>>1457207
boy are you in for a treat >>>1454190

[Anonymous No.1457240]

>>1457217
How much of a masochist are you?

[Anonymous No.1457263]

>>1457240
ive made a few change gears on a chinese lathe

-broaching 4 splines isn't fun
-setting up a angle plate and cross slide isn't fun
-visually indexing with a excel printout isn't fun
-grinding a hss tooth cutter isn't fun

[Anonymous No.1457265]

>>1457224
Well if I were to undertake this project I would definitely need a 4th axis. It would make me a goddamn wizard at CAM too.

[Anonymous No.1457266]

>>1457265
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYpG0HDcFsA

[Anonymous No.1457273]

>>1457015
Butthurt about Tormachs still? They work fine, and are $10k less than new Haas machines. A converted bridgeport with a knee isn't quite the machine a Tormach is.

[Anonymous No.1457358]

any creative ways to make really small holes?
I have a brass nozzle for a burner blower that had a very small hole in the end when it was new. over time it wore out and now the hole is too big.
I have down to #77 drills (.018) and even that is much too big. I don't know how big the hole should be but it needs to be damn small.
This thing was made in the 20's so they didn't have fancy things like lasers and EDM back then. what were they using to drill very small holes at that time? just really tiny twist drills?
I can get tiny drills but how the fuck do I not break them?

[Anonymous No.1457367]

>>1457358
You can take some fine steel wire and cast the part around the wire, then pull the wire out once the part is hard and cool.

Machine the rest of the part after as needed.

[Anonymous No.1457374]

>>1457273
>They work fine
If they work at all. They have huge qc issues and are cheap chinesium made project machines that don't belong in serious machine shops

[Anonymous No.1457415]

>>1457374
I hear stories of 10 thou backlash, even a hobbyist should have to deal with that

[Anonymous No.1457418]

>>1457415
oh, well if that's the case those machines really are junk. I wouldn't defend that. But being told to take out a loan for the extra $10k I just can't defend either.

[Anonymous No.1457455]

>>1457418
I would probably tell people to get a manual bridgeport and stick ball screws on it for the price range of 8k

[Anonymous No.1457460]

>>1457455
A new knee mill for $8k ?

Damn I was getting shafted at $17k for a nice one then.

[Anonymous No.1457710]

>>1457460
Nah you pay like 3k for a bridge port with good ways, toss out the shit screw and nut setup, order a ball screw, x and y and it's like 2k for them, get a drm, 8k is what I would expect to pay. And yeah you were probably getting shafted unless it was a cnc.

[Anonymous No.1457790]

>>1457710
it had ball screws

[Anonymous No.1459046]

looking to get into machining. can someone explain the sizes here? what do the numbers mean? are they metric? what does BR mean?

[Anonymous No.1459051]

>>1459046
okay, the BR stands for bronze. what do the numbers mean? is it the diameter?

[Anonymous No.1459081]

>>1459046
Measure-Material-Grade-Profile.

It's difficult to tell the measure without any units. if you are in USA, probably imperial. if you are in europe, probably metric

[Anonymous No.1459083]

>>1459081
Canada actually. which makes the imperial metric shit worse.

[Anonymous No.1459100]

>>1459046

If I assume inches, using a density of 0.322 lbs/cubic inch, I get 10.1 lbs vs. their 12 lbs. Maybe theirs is heavier due to packaging? There's no metric unit close enough to inches to get a closer value, so I assume it's inches. Also, the default unit for length on their site is inches.

However, it's retarded to not specify it somewhere on their site.

[Anonymous No.1459103]

>>1459100
thank you so much!

[Anonymous No.1459256]

I have a small (like 4"x2"x1" max), decorative, uncomplicated part I need made for costuming reasons. It doesn't have to be made out metal, just needs to look like it is. Would it be more economical to make a polyurethane cast and send that to a chroming service or to pay a machining shop to make it?

[Anonymous No.1459260]

I have a small (like 4"x2"x1" max), decorative, uncomplicated part I need made for costuming reasons. It doesn't have to be made out metal, just needs to look like it is. Would it be more economical to pay a 3d printing service to make a 3d print, sand and coat it, and then make a silicone mold to pour polyurethane resin in and send that cast to a chroming service or to pay a machining shop to make it?

[Anonymous No.1459261]

>>1459260
why not 3d print it in a metal and then just sand it and polish it? why go through the trouble of casting and shit.

even better, why not 3d print it and then paint it to look like metal?

[Anonymous No.1459265]

>>1459261
I'm living in a dorm this year, I don't have the equipment or place to sand metal safely, and silver paint isn't as shiny as I want it to be, it always looks pretty dull

[Anonymous No.1459270]

>>1459265
what is this part?

I mean if you don't have the place just go out on the sidewalk with sandpaper and a file?

you really overestimate the amount of equipment you need for /cgl/ stuff

[Anonymous No.1459297]

>>1459270
It's a decorative buckle in an unusual shape (yes I have searched to find a buckle that's the right shape and size, couldn't find anything). It has a very clean geometric shape and I know myself and I'm not going to be able to sculpt it, but I have a much better chance of making it look professional if I can make the model in Maya. Doesn't need to actually function like a buckle or bear any weight, just needs to sit on my breastplate and look pretty. /cgl/ wasn't helpful because I'm not making it out of worbla covered eva foam and I want it to have the shiniest possible finish

[Anonymous No.1459298]

>>1459297
huh, well like I said having shapeways metal 3d print it and polishing it up with finer grits of sandpaper would probably be your best bet. unless the geometry is crazy. post a pic for posterity's sake

[Anonymous No.1459311]

>>1459046
>>1459100
I'm pretty sure the numbers are just a diameter, "1.5 BR Round Bar" should be a SAE grade 660 round bronze bar with a diameter of 1.5 inches, however I could be wrong.

[Anonymous No.1459314]

>>1459311

thanks, but it was obvious to all that they were diameters. the issue is that the web site does not appear to state the units anywhere, and you can choose inches or metric for the length. however, it seems pretty certain that the diameters are inches.

[Anonymous No.1459378]

>>1459298
Sorry for the shitty drawing and photo, I'm not a draftsman and I'm visiting family and won't have access to my computer until this weekend so I can't make a model yet. This is approximately how it's going to be shaped, no more than 1 inch deep and beveled around the edges. Also by looking at the texture in game I think it's supposed to be a bright silvery color

[Anonymous No.1459401]

>>1446428
What's the tool in the thread photo?

[Anonymous No.1459402]

>>1459260
i'll make it for you on my cnc mill for a low price, hold on let me find an email

>>1459046
brinell hardness rating, stuff measured on brinell is soft

[Anonymous No.1459404]

>>1459378
actually, if you don't have good dimensions of what you want then I'm not going to fuck around talking to you about it for 3 days for no reward

don't ask someone to make something for you unless you know exactly what you want (dimensions, dimensions, dimensions)

any chance you could supply a 3d model?

[[e-mail] No.1459405]

>>1459378

[Anonymous No.1459531]

>>1459378
Just a pro-tip, sharp corners on internal features are a no-no whenever possible in machining because they require special setup, tooling and or processes.

[Anonymous No.1459548]

>>1459378
You should ask /co or /tg about metal finishesfor plastic. Its not easy, but they can work good.o

[Anonymous No.1459567]

>>1459531
lots of guys have a small outdated edm for random crap like that

[Anonymous No.1459584]

>>1459378
it's ugly and poorly designed (too weak where the strap loops over, sharp edges against the strap), but you knew that already right?

https://mega.nz/#!ER1FzDoC!v7du_8fQDYoMbz3dKjRNu9Vicxt_pXxYjgPCv8omqmo

[Anonymous No.1459586]

>>1459378
pretty ugly imo

[Anonymous No.1459594]

>>1459586
being mostly for decoration I could just file the corners square.

looks like a pretty heavy chamfer on the edges, 45 degree?

[Anonymous No.1459601]

>>1459594
Yes, 0.05 inches on the inner edges and 0.0625 on the outside edges

[Anonymous No.1459649]

>>1459404
I'm gonna be able to make a model on Sunday, I just don't have my computer with me here. Also the photo came out upside down. Huh

[Anonymous No.1459655]

anyone here went to BCIT for the machinist foundation program?

[Anonymous No.1460570]

Machine Trade Anons...
I'm about to start my 2nd year as a Tool & Die Apprentice at a small PIM job shop. I work in just about every department outside the toolroom and spend a lot of time repairing damaged jobs. I've taken on a lot of additional work and responsibility since I've started. I also go to school for Machine Tool Technology. However..
>No one has been keeping track of my hours
>The journeymen toolmakers assume that my school is shit when they've never once looked into the program or what it does (my shop instructors are competent, respectable machinists)
>They don't let me do anything with the CNC machines except clean out coolant shit tanks. They seem pretty insistent on keeping me away from anything related to CNC machining for some reason.
>The company stopped giving a shit about maintenance 20 years ago, coincidentally around the time that the last toolmakers who founded the company sold it to an LLC run by a guy with a background in HR
>They've recently been hemorrhaging money trying to get a 20 year old EDM machine and a 25 year old CNC machine back up to speed after years spent not giving a shit about maintenance
I'm their first apprentice since the 80s. Part of me really wants to stick it out and help build the company back up. There seems to be some good people running the show. On the other hand, it seems like I'm giving it everything I got, but my apprenticeship was a half-assed afterthought and no one really gives a shit either way.

For all my time spent getting talked down to like a dumbass, for all the 14 hour days coming home covered in 8 kinds of grime and shit, my little sister makes more than me as a cashier at a convenience store. They always have some bullshit song and dance whenever I ask about getting the gradual raises they promised me when I started. What's worse, I'm paying out of pocket for my classes. Should I just stick with it for now? It's not like I have many other options. Tool & Die Apprenticeships are so rare.

[Anonymous No.1460596]

>>1460570
Well, once you think you've learned all that they'll let you, consider looking around at other options, probe around with other shops and see what they'd pay you and if those offers are better take it back to them and see if they'll at least match it, otherwise jump ship.

It's a shame that the maintenance there has become nonexistent, the same thing happened to the shop I work at, back at least to the early 2000s the shop was run by people who started out as machinists and had moved up to management and we had all sorts of cool processes that we could do like gear hobbing and heat treating, but then the the company brought in management from outside who were obsessed with reducing overhead, we've got multimillion dollar CNCs sitting under a leaky fiberglass roof and we just had out last oiler retire a few years ago, I personally at least pay attention to the lathe that I run but the ways are like a record from years of being run dry. Lots of the older guys realize that things have gone to shit, but they're too close to retirement to care and most of the younger guys don't know anything different since we rarely bring people in from the outside, they've gotten by so far with subcontracting work out to people who know what they're doing as problems pop up but I get the feeling that it's somewhat of a sinking ship.

[Anonymous No.1460624]

>>1460596
Small world. There was apparently a "dark age" sometime between Y2K and 2012. The new management brought on didn't know what they were doing and put the shop into mid-6 figures of debt. Since then, they have been replaced by a team of more competent people who have a long history at the company. They're now running operations on a shoe-string budget.

When I first showed up, all of their grinders were caked in layers of filth. Their chucks were far past the point of surface rust. Most of the bridgeports were dry as a bone to the point that you could hear them whine. Same deal with the extra lathes. They had a nice Starrett surface plate sitting directly under a leak. Now it is warped to all fuck.

All the wires and sensors on this Hurco they've been routinely spending thousands of dollars on at a time were buried under a half-inch of grime, filth, chips, etc. I cleaned it up as best as I could, but come on. They still have all the manuals from when they bought it and I've expressed interest in looking into it further, but they'd rather have me do monotonous shitwork that some other department needed yesterday. That is what you get for glorifying short-term profit.

1 year under my belt doesn't mean much. I think I'll stick it out until I finish school (2020). At that rate, I'll be 3 years in. My only concern is that they will drag my apprenticeship out for as long as they can, filling in the time with more monotonous shitwork that has nothing to do with machining.

I would like to open up my own job shop someday. One thing for sure, this place has taught me a lot about how not to run one.

[Anonymous No.1460692]

>>1460624
maybe they'll let you run the CNC once they get it up and running

[Anonymous No.1460921]

>>1460692
So... How do I tell how much holding force I need to keep parts from pulling up out of my fixture?

Any general rules? With one 5/8" mitee-bite hex clamp providing 800lbs of clamping force against a 1/2" strip of aluminum 3 & 7/8" long, what kind of cutting forces will a 3/8" endmill generate to pull or push it around?

[Anonymous No.1460922]

>>1460921
sorry, meant to ask this question to everyone

[Anonymous No.1460937]

are machinists just retarded engineers?

[Anonymous No.1460939]

>>1460937

sure, some are. retarded people are all around us. just look in the mirror if you want to see one.

[Anonymous No.1460941]

>>1460937
Engineers are probably just retarded machinists, anon.

[Anonymous No.1460983]

>>1460941
I love when machinists tell me:
>this tolerance doesn't need to be .001"
I just tell em "ah you just don't understand the stack up"
>lmao it didn't actually need to be .001"

[Anonymous No.1461121]

>>1460921
Unless you're whipping around at 400ipm, have created a serious lever by clamping on only one point, or cutting plastic, it's actually really hard to get a piece of metal to pull from a vice.

[Anonymous No.1461141]

>>1452644
modern craftsman is shit

[Anonymous No.1461142]

>>1454709
anything but the square kind is garbage

spiral and all other kinds expand the bolt making it even tighter

[Anonymous No.1461144]

>>1456679
if you ever talk bad about brian I will put my foot up your ass
that "redneck" has a masters in mechanical engineering
show some fucking respect

[Anonymous No.1461146]

>>1457273
found the shill

amazing you took a break from sucking john saunders dick to post this

[Anonymous No.1461148]

>>1457358
just poke your dick through the material
if it's too small, you can use a cock ring to increase the diameter by a few thou

[Anonymous No.1461155]

>>1460570
fuck company loyalty.
if you died tomorrow they would replace you before you were in the ground.
get to a real shop that's going to train you properly.
if they're not teaching you, they can go to hell.

[Anonymous No.1461467]

>>1461121
A vise is one thing, hex clamps are another...

I'm also planning to use some wedge clamps: https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/06948103

[Anonymous No.1461469]

>>1461144
redneck isn't derogatory where I live, anon

[Anonymous No.1461471]

>>1457358
The Harvey tools catalogue they sent me has tons of carbide micro drills in it, with a larger shank. They aren't cheap, but they would be my go-to for micro holes, because the company specializes in micro-machining tools.

http://www.harveytool.com/

[Anonymous No.1461472]

>>1461141
mine are actually pretty good, no telling how old they are, though. The paint is baked on pretty tough, it doesn't have the textured stuff they put on higher quality tools and kennedy boxes though.

[Anonymous No.1461475]

>>1457044
>https://youtu.be/j87WW-jGmrU

>ball bearing ways on a lathe

hope it doesn't chatter, those balls bouncing will fuck shit up quick

[Anonymous No.1461484]

Is a subplate the only common way to locate fixture pallets? I just want to slap fixture pallets on and off without indicating them in every time. I bet a few of these per fixture pallet would remove most of the indicating, but Tom Lipton doesn't even like using them on his vises because they are a pain to install and they wear out, and they scratch up the table. Looking at a Pierson Pallet System, but it's another $1,000+ investment. https://piersonworkholding.com/pro-pallet-system/

T-slot keys:
https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Clamping-Workholding-Positioning/Locating-Positioning-Components/Locating-Components/Fixture-Keys/Standard-Fixture-Keys?navid=12108462


Another question, when to use dowel pin liners?
I have dowel pins going into aluminum for alignment when screwing some screws down to clamp a part in my fixtures.

I know the aluminum is going to wear out, but I will have made thousands of parts before then. For between $6 and $50 a piece, lining the holes with steel dowel pin liners doesn't seem like an economical choice when I can make them out of mild steel.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/63758924

[Anonymous No.1461497]

>>1459260

If you're going down the polyurethane casting route, just use powdered metal filler. You'd be surprised how a good polyurethane with enough metal filler seems like solid metal.

Or just pay to have it machined out of aluminum or something.

[Anonymous No.1461616]

>>1460937
Quality b8. Our lead engineer just got done trying to direct one of our 20 yr senior maintenance staff on what he should do to fix something based off of what he saw on a 5 minute youtube video and has no working knowledge of any sort

[Anonymous No.1461670]

>>1457358
You can try PCB drills. The overall things you are going to worry about is having too high of a feed rate, chip build up in the tiny ass flutes, and also straight up breaking it on first touch due too much runout of your setup. You need everything concentric as fuck. For micro drilling, you should try to maximize the feel that you have (I assume this is going to be on a lathe?). Make a tailstock attachment that is just the appropriate morse taper and a very straight and precise diameter hole in the center. Then make a jacobs taper arbor that has the appropriate jacobs taper on one end for a micro chuck, and then on the other end, the same size diameter of that hole you made in the morse taper part -.0003 or something like that. So basically you drill by grabbing the actual chuck and pulling it forward into the work piece, and arresting the rotation by hand as well (obviously only works safely with tiny drills where you can overcome the force easily).

Remember that the more of the chuck arbor you have in the hole the better the runout will be since the worst possible error in angular runout is tan(a)=(.0003 or whatever the clearance with the hole is/distance you have the arbor in the hole).

[Anonymous No.1462225]

>>1461484
>Another question, when to use dowel pin liners?
depends how fancy and accurate you wanna be. also depends on how easy you wanna make it. i love the shit outta these but not for $10 each, check misumi or carrlane for more options/ cheaper. but these things rock. you usually use the pins that come with, they are one round and one diamond pin . with a nice fit like these provide, i doubt the almunnium will last with that fit tolerance for 1000's of parts . depends how many pallets you have as well and how tight your tolerancers were when making them. is this just a straight workholding jig/fixture, or is some automation involved?

[Anonymous No.1462230]

>>1462225
workholding for the CNC

the half of this particular fixture collection + pallet nearest the viewer won't be screwed down, so those holes will be ignored.

Small holes are screw-holes, large holes are dowel pin holes. The dowel pins serve a dual purpose to keep the clamping from being crooked because it clamps only near the top, and for alignment.

They are at different levels so I can take the moving jaw portion completely off if I wish to.

[Anonymous No.1463407]

>>1462230
Ok I think making both the fixtures and the parts out of one long bar is going to save a lot of time and money cutting them into individual pieces, and all the alignment and clamping for the individual fixture blocks.

[Anonymous No.1464175]

Rate my toolpost grinder /emg/

[Vinyl No.1464221]

>>1464175
3/10
how many parts are you going to make with that

[Anonymous No.1464222]

>>1464221
0, just taking a burr off a collet. it did the job.

[Vinyl No.1464223]

>>1464222
oh good what kinda latthe you got?

[Anonymous No.1464239]

>>1464223
Grizzly 13x40 gunsmith's lathe. Rebranded low-end Chinese machine, sometimes a pain in the ass to deal with, but it's pretty full featured. for the light-duty stuff I do it works alright.

[Anonymous No.1464246]

>>1464239
yeah the gunsmith lathes have a lot of threads they can cut right?

I still kind of want to CNC my mini lathe for turning small parts. No illusions for heavy roughing on it though.

[Anonymous No.1464247]

>>1464175
protip if your way oil is turning black it's because there's abrasive lapping your machine away

[Anonymous No.1464273]

>>1464246
It'll do most inch and metric threads. Surprisingly not 11.5 (garden hose thread) though.

>>1464247
if there is, it's factory. before now I haven't done any grinding on this machine, or turning hard materials. I wipe it down once in a while and it's dark but not very badly so.

[Anonymous No.1464274]

>>1464246
what mini lathe do you have?

[Anonymous No.1464341]

>>1464274
Grizzly G0752

[Anonymous No.1464346]

Hi gois. I'm in the market for my first lathe. I am fairly limited on space so I have been looking at the 10" atlas lathes, among several other models. This Sunday I am going to inspect an Atlas 10F, and was wondering what I should look for before purchasing?

I know with most machines you check the ways for a lip at the crest, however these machines have flat ways so I'm not really sure how to determine if they are worn to shit. Besides the physical inspection, is there anything I should ask the seller about the machine?

Lastly, what would your top dollar be on such a machine assuming after your inspection you feel it is in decent working condition?

[Anonymous No.1464355]

>>1464346
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NuZEQe4Q3g4

Also dont buy it unless it has a quick change gearbox or a FULL set of change gears. Gears run 20-30$ a piece

[Anonymous No.1464358]

>>1464355
I already watched that video, my only concern is that he went over a 6" lathe. He has a second video that covers the 12" version, which is closer to what I would be dealing with but that video really doesn't go over purchasing tips.

I just checked ebay for the change gears, holy shit you aren't joking. It's like $250 for a full set. I'll have to ask him when I call him tomorrow to set an appointment. Do you think SLA 3D printed gears would work? I have free access to SLA machines at school. I know they used zircon on these machines so it's not like the system was designed to have a large torque transmission on the change gears.

What would you pay for one of these machines? I know it's a compromise over a proper machine like a Southbend 10L, I just can't swing it.

[Anonymous No.1464359]

>>1464358
the ways on a square bed machine you should check the gap between square surfaces with calipers or a bore gage of some kind

[Anonymous No.1464361]

>>1464358
The 10 and the 12 are pretty much identical just with the swing being slightly bigger so the tailstock is slightly taller etc etc.
Ive seen atlas lathes near me go for 500-1500 depending on how much tooling it has. Its worth is dependent on what else is around you. You might have to overpay if you live in a barren state.

[Anonymous No.1464363]

that cheeto faggot made grizzly lathes so expensive to ship to Canada holy shit

[Anonymous No.1464366]

>>1464363
Buy from a canadian importer, Grizzly isnt special they just paint them green.

[Anonymous No.1464369]

>>1464358
you might be able to buy generic gears with the right tooth count and diameter

[Anonymous No.1464374]

>>1464363
The chinese supplying Precision Matthews might be the place to find. There are slight differences in the castings, with the PM being a little nicer, according to youtube.

Also south bend makes lathes still, in China.

[Anonymous No.1464376]

>>1464358
>I know it's a compromise over a proper machine like a Southbend 10L, I just can't swing it.

I have a 12" Craftsman Atlas. Ive seen two maybe three other people post Atlas lathes on here.
I only paid $500 for mine.
As much as people say they are a "compromise" machine, it still chews through steel at reasonable depths of cuts. I know its ten times the machine a harbor freight mini lathe is for around the same price.

With that said im not sure if I would spend $1000+ on it, unless its been gone through and it decked out with accessories and tooling and a quick change box..

[Anonymous No.1464510]

>>1464376
He is asking $500. I am having one of my friends meet with him today to offer $300 so I can get him closer to $400.

Still not sure about change gears, but it comes with tool holder, and 2 tailstock turrets. Not sure of other tooling.

[Anonymous No.1464511]

Has anyone ever tried the crackpot concrete lathe/multimachine setup?

[Anonymous No.1464515]

>>1464376
This, I was dumb and got a 7" chinko pinko garbo fucking piece of shit. Any south bend or atlas lathe will destroy any and every mini-lathe out there.

[Anonymous No.1464577]

>>1464510
My craigslist rarely has lathes or mills, and when it does they are $5000 giant industrial ones.
With that context in mind, I jumped on mine for 500(talked down from 600), and I would jump on yours too unless there was something glaring wrong with it.

Keep in mind that 500$ in the long run isnt all that much money, and even if its a sloppy piece of junk youll still be able to play around and turn stuff. Even if its so worn the high precision is all gone, you can still make useful parts for a lot of projects.

If you have been watching your craigslist a long time and see a ton of lathes from $5-800 all the time and have the option to be picky, then thats great too. If this is a rare thing and you really want to start machining, its probably not going to be a horrible thing.

For $500 I wouldnt expect a ton of tooling. The people who have a ton of tooling know it and charge for it.

[Anonymous No.1464602]

>>1464577
I am in Pittsburgh so machines come up very often. I think my local craigslist has about 20 lathes listed now, but very few toolroom lathes, and even fewer under 1 grand.

I'm going tomorrow I'll post back if I buy it. Thank you all for your help.

[Anonymous No.1464866]

>>1464602
Also; spoke with him earlier- he has a "quick change gearbox" but its dissassembled. I found a part list / schematic for it, if it's missing some parts- do you guys think it's a deal breaker?

He obviously took it apart for a reason, I just dont know if it was to restore it- or because its nonfunctional.

[Anonymous No.1464870]

>>1464866
Manual machines aren't rocket science, you should be able to repair it and have a quick change gearbox.

[Anonymous No.1464873]

>>1464870
Sure but the cost of repair may outweigh the value.

[Anonymous No.1464874]

>>1464873
broken cast iron? brazing rod and torch with brazing tip.

need a gear? probably buy a generic gear relatively cheap, or make one. Hobbing on a lathe would work if you can index it.

Change gearbox usually have a christmas-tree looking stack of gears, if the christmas tree isn't there then a lot of gears missing.

[Anonymous No.1464973]

>>1464363
buy old

[Anonymous No.1465108]

I would never go back to pure manual machines having a CNC.

I understand that old machinists don't like to, or can't use computers well... But the benefits are so enormous, especially for old people, that it just seems odd.

[Anonymous No.1465148]

>>1465108
I'm a ME student, one of my friends is a CpE/EE dual major and is going to help me CNC it once I get it running right.

Meeting with the goy shortly

[Anonymous No.1465335]

>>1465108
Manual machines are much faster for single feature shit or if you need to quickly put a hole/skim an edge for clearance. Also, anything needing a funky angle is much easier on a bridgeport since you can tilt the head.

[Anonymous No.1465342]

>>1459378
Is this a joke?

[Anonymous No.1465352]

>>1453436
SF86 as in security clearance? I have one, not a big deal but took forever. As long as you don't have a criminal history and tell the truth with regards to any drugs you've done it shouldn't be a problem. Most places desperate for qualified/trained worker that can get a security clearance so they're willing do overlook more than they used to provided you don't screw up again.

[Anonymous No.1465492]

What are some simple, straightforward projects I can do for my grind/ht class? This is my second time taking it and I can't just regrind my stuff from the first go round so I have to machine out entirely new parts.

[Anonymous No.1465507]

So I bought my first lathe!

[Anonymous No.1465509]

>>1465507
Came with lots of stuff

[Anonymous No.1465510]

>>1451186
you'd want to flip it upside down and make sure your gcode includes support material

[Anonymous No.1465511]

>>1465509
Box 1, and yes he included that small side table

[Anonymous No.1465512]

>>1465511
He said this is a turret tailstock, I have no idea how to use it lol.

[Anonymous No.1465513]

>>1465512
Apparently this bix contains all the components to the quick change gear kit, I'm taking it with a grain of salt until I have time to index it.

[Anonymous No.1465514]

>>1465492
quickchange toolpost?

[Anonymous No.1465515]

>>1465513
Also here is the casting for it, at a minimum I have quite a few of the gears I can sell

[Anonymous No.1465518]

>>1465515
Also included a knurling tool and a full toolbox of inserts/tool blanks

[Anonymous No.1465519]

>>1465513
Those are standard change gears, the quick change box had cut steel gears and those are cast zircon gears.

>>1465515
The main gearset is not there. Youll have to look and see what you actually have later down the line

[Anonymous No.1465520]

>>1465518
Also a 4 jaw chuck and the milling attatchment. The handle on the milling part is broken however so i'll have to buy a crank handle somewhere

[Anonymous No.1465521]

>>1465507
nice.jpg

>>1465515
christmas tree gear is in there, looks good.

A turret lathe is what they used pre-CNC for making lots of small parts quickly.

https://www.youtube.com/user/Halligan142/videos

[Anonymous No.1465525]

>>1465520
All in I paid $500. Did I get a decent deal or did I overpay?

Also, any ideas for a first project once I clean and set it up correctly?

[Anonymous No.1465528]

>>1465525
If you were to part it out youd make your money back and then some. But there is no reason to, its a good package to start turning with

[Anonymous No.1465531]

>>1465525
once you get it running you won't be sorry you paid a measly $500 for it.

try turning a plastic or aluminum handle for something, don't crash the tool or the edge of the saddle/carriage into the chuck, and don't spin anything longer than 10" above 100RPM.

[Anonymous No.1465532]

>>1465531
He included a piece of what appears to be delrin. I'll start with that.

By the way, I'm surprised how sketchy lifting even this small lathe was lol.

[Anonymous No.1465533]

>>1465525
>All in I paid $500.

And to think, in the last month or two Bepis has bought $500 worth of cheap chinese hand tools he will never use.

Im glad to see there are some people on here who want to actually build things. It seems like a lot of anons are buying machine tools as of recent.

[Anonymous No.1465534]

>>1465521
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XD7wDdVaMGQ

https://www.youtube.com/user/BasementShopGuy/videos

all three of those guys look similar and sound like they're from Boston, but they are in fact different people with different machines. One of them is running a small machine shop with atlas/logan/southbend or similar turret lathes right now, still looking for the video.

pretty sure it's this guy, his main turret lathe looks like his hardinge, but he has an atlas/southbend/logan in the background too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viNzuIbKsiY

[Anonymous No.1465536]

>>1465533
as far as that goes, I'm still pretty happy with my Pratt and Whitney 16x54 with a 7.5HP 3-phase motor.

[Vinyl No.1465542]

>>1465525
fucking nice i got ripped off hard paid 700 for
atlas 6x18 lathe only came with a four jaw a worn out 3 jaw and faceplate
god i hate trying to buy tools in canada :\
>>1455084

[Anonymous No.1465545]

>>1455148
h'what?

you do know the far side of the lathe should have bronze wear pads that you tighten to take up the slack there right?

[Anonymous No.1465547]

Can anyone tell me what kind of lathe this is?
I may go look at it

[Anonymous No.1465548]

>>1465547

[Vinyl No.1465552]

>>1465545
oh well i figured out why it was because seasonal temp change lossend up the gibs -30c to +20c will do that, but man i need heat in my shop

[Anonymous No.1465564]

>>1465548
>>1465547
could be a late 1800s pratt and whitney for all I know, they were pretty basic like that back then

[Anonymous No.1465585]

>>1465514
already doing one. Will just count toward ht, no grinding.

[Anonymous No.1465591]

>>1465564
Well fuck it, im going to go look at it tomorrow. Its going to be one hell of an ordeal to actually get it home if I buy it.

[Anonymous No.1465600]

>>1465552
your gibs might be out of adjustment, as in, tightened up all the way and still a bit loose.

in which case you could try to make a new one, or epoxy a strip of turcite to it and scrape it flat or something similar.

[Vinyl No.1465604]

>>1465600
well i was going to buy a bigger lathe but the one i was looking at is gone fml

[Anonymous No.1465667]

>>1465604
What do you need a bigger lathe for?

[Vinyl No.1465671]

>>1465667
bigger work

[Anonymous No.1465677]

>>1465671
Have you hit the limits of your machine, or do you think gib adjustments won't exist on something bigger?

[Vinyl No.1465682]

>>1465677
yes i need to feed 3/4" rod through the headstock
and more rigidity wouldn't be a bad thing

[Anonymous No.1466213]

>>1446428
I want a relatively tiny machine to cut acrylic sheets (0.125" or less) and to make circuit boards.

Amazon has a bunch of cheap ones that seem a bit sketchy, plus I don't quite know what to look for.

On a scale from 1-10, how shitty are these:
https://www.amazon.com/slp/mini-cnc-machine/qyrdyhj89pgz7sr

[Anonymous No.1466233]

>>1465552
Has anyone here used a hazard fraud dial indicator? Considering buying one because I don't have the budget for a proper one.

[Anonymous No.1466242]

>>1465547
>>1465548
Its a "Schellenbach" lathe
I went and looked.
The motor wire was cut so I couldnt test it.
Also the guy called it a 6" swing, and I knew it would be bigger, but the picture doesnt do it justice.
Thats an 8" chuck, and the top of the motor is like 7 feet tall. its a massive lathe that I cant really move with my trailer or fit in my garage.

Oh well

[Anonymous No.1466250]

>>1466213
The structural pieces are made of plastic
Cutting acrylic and scribing on a copper clad board is about the extent of what you can do with them. I mean you could cut decals or throw a pen on it and plot with it. Or throw a laser on it. But not going to take a lot of lateral forces at all.

>>1466233
They work fine.
Here is you best bang for the buck ive found.
https://www.amazon.com/Exclusive-Premium-Indicator-Contact-Graduation/dp/B072F5T4G4/

Its one of the medium grade brass fowlers (which usually are $40-60, not the crappy 20$ fowler). Just have to get over the absolutely ugly amazon themed face.
Its way smoother and much nicer than the harbor freight ones.

[Anonymous No.1466343]

>>1466213
You're better off with an actual router

[Anonymous No.1466376]

>>1446428
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXoG9uEMIpA

[Anonymous No.1466378]

>>1466376
Turret lathe stuff, for the guy who bought a lathe that came with a turret (lucky bastard). >>1465525

[Anonymous No.1466382]

>>1466378
>(lucky bastard).


Getting turret lathe stuff just means the lather was in a work environment so you know its worn out

[Anonymous No.1466454]

>>1451186
>send part to china for manufacturing
>chinaman copies it
>"nooo, the part we sent was not what you should look at, it shouldn't be warped, not like what we sent you!!"

dude apply yourself
also Sketchup is gay

[Anonymous No.1466538]

>>1466454
desu if you aren't using Catia, Siemens NX, or CREO you are a dork.

[Anonymous No.1466878]

>>1466250
>>1466343
Alright, think I'm going to spend a bit more money and get this instead.

https://millrightcnc.com/product/millright-cnc-m3-kit-bundle/

Seems like it might be overkill for my needs, but I want something that can definitely cut acrylic.

Anyone have experience will millright?

[Anonymous No.1466895]

>>1466382
the turret maybe

[Anonymous No.1466911]

>>1466878
there are people on here that have routers, stick around a bit it moves slow.

[Anonymous No.1466930]

Fusion 360 update: https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/blog/september-17-2018-update-whats-new/

[Anonymous No.1466947]

>>1466930
the improved visibility toggling is pretty nice, an STL of a half machined part has tons of triangles and visibility toggling was slow to say the least, even with a GTX 960.

[Anonymous No.1466955]

>>1466454
jokes on you it's actually better this way
CHINA #1

[Anonymous No.1466993]

>>1466930
>>1466947
Fusion is aight the cad and cam bundle is fairly good, but ever since I learned John Saunders is a turbo shill I can't look at anything he uses the same way.

[Anonymous No.1467084]

>>1466993
Fuck no, it's unbearable once you get used to proper cad packs. I was forced to use it for a class, literally torturous. Get a proper cad suite like Creo or NX.

[Anonymous No.1467086]

>>1467084
I use solidworks and hsmworks like a big boy. But yeah there are a few things that piss me off with it

[Anonymous No.1467111]

>>1466911
Guess I'll hold off for a while to see if someone who has used these appears.

As of now I'm between getting something like this if it'll do the job:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07169D9JQ/

If not, I'll go with the Millright M3.

[Anonymous No.1467116]

>>1466993
a (((turbo shill))) you say?

you're probably just too echoey yourself

[Anonymous No.1467174]

>>1467116
Nah, tormach literally pays him for everything, product placement and shilling like crazy. A lot of guys have had problems with tormach and tormach links John Saunders maintenance videos to customers.

They don't even have videos of their own troubleshooting for their product or even a way to help customers deal with problems.

[Anonymous No.1467260]

>>1467258

New thread

[Anonymous No.1467306]

>>1467174
his videos are helpful, if that's the worst you can say about him well, that's not too bad.

I had a vibration issue with my tormach after running a fucked up 2 flute HSS 1/2 endmill I was using for roughing some aluminum into a hardened vice jaw then letting it run a part for 5 minutes vibrating like crazy.

I ended up tightening up some gibs and preload nuts which likely vibrated loose. Their tech support has real people to talk to and didn't cost $300 just to get a service tech to drive over.


Still using the machine, so it can't be that awful--and John Saunders makes it very clear he is sponsored by Tormach. It's okay to be salty about it being a Chinese machine, that is valid criticism, but don't make up stuff and people will respect your opinion more.