Compact and subcompact tractors

[Anonymous No.1413640]

What have you build for your small tractor?

[Anonymous No.1413662]

>>1413640
>What have you build for your small tractor?

speak english much?

you mean like a shed?

[Anonymous No.1414252]

>>1413640
I have a branson and it's a piece of shit desu.

[Anonymous No.1414255]

>>1413640
Old Lamborghini engine rigged to old trailer frame cut in half. Servosteering doubles as hydraulic connector for saw and log splitter. Oil drum for diesel tank in front, pole with omni-directional led worklight.

[Anonymous No.1414266]

>>1414255

Sounds too light.

[Anonymous No.1414268]

>>1414255
Pics yo

[Anonymous No.1414304]

serious question.
Why would anyone buy a new, small, water cooled diesel tractor for light duty work instead of an used 1960-90 air cooled that is build like a tank and spares are dirt cheap
are old american tractors garbage? but you have john deere
i just don't get it

[Anonymous No.1414333]

>>1414304
Old american tractors are great, they're almost all water cooled too you faggot. You can get a full sized 1950s or 60s tractor in great condition for about $2-3k just in just about any semi rural area.

I don't get sub compacts or compact tractors in general, you can't do shit with them, and they're not even that much less expensive than a full sized deal. In any case getting an older full sized one will be cheaper and have way more capability, and they're idiot dead fucking simple to work on.

[Anonymous No.1414335]

>>1414333
>they're almost all water cooled too you faggot
wait what
>too much power
There are Deutz Diesel engines with >200HP air cooled.
they were great, but the EU cucked us on this for environmental reasons

[Anonymous No.1414340]

>>1414335
>wait what
almost all american serious tractors are air cooled, unless you're talking about little gay garden tractors. Even most sub-compacts are water cooled. It's way more efficient cooling, much lower operating temps, longer engine life.

>There are Deutz Diesel engines with >200HP air cooled.


So...? Power doesn't have much to do with it, for a tractor it's way more about reliability and longevity. Most regular sized tractors only make 30-60 hp, you don't really need power when you got gearing, which tractors have a shit load of.

[Anonymous No.1414341]

>>1414266
Nah. The frame was from a broken bale carrier, sturdy as hell. Wheels from a Ford F-something, it was orange. Then I welded/strapped on about 400 kg (750lbs) of railroad track to make a low center mass.

[Anonymous No.1414619]

>>1413662
You mean like take a nap AngryFag and not be in the first 5 comments with every single fucking assblasted shipost?

[Anonymous No.1414620]

>>1414255
Pics anon ffs i hant to diy a $45 tractor that will ourt perform a 20k pos

[Anonymous No.1414623]

>>1414341
>railroad track
>750 pounds

Time to change it out. Forged in fire made thar shit like 3 bucks a foot anon.

Do work and get a net tractor!

[Anonymous No.1414646]

>>1413640
Spent a lot of time on a little tractor like this one as a kid. Had a bushhog for it, a backhoe, and a sprayer (thousands of gallons of roundup, and look how normal I am). Solid little machine, and with the 4 wheel drive it would go anywhere. You're taking me back 35 years OP. And yes, there was a shed for it.

[Anonymous No.1414695]

>>1414335
I had a Volvo L45 with the Deutz. It worked fine and had plenty of power but seemed a bit pointless.

Why go with some exotic engine with strange systems when you can just use a boring old Perkins

[Bepis is a cuck No.1414743]

I have a spare water cooled gas engine.

Want to build a little hoe bucket for drink beer and dig in my pond.

Any ideas on wtf size bucket. Arms, hydraulic pump i need?

Trying to cobble something together because rentals are expensive. I will sell it later and get a hoe.

Got a lotbof windshield time in a hoe and got a lot of cleaning up to do along side several projects planned.

[Anonymous No.1414805]

>>1414695
>exotic engine
that depends entirely on your location

[Anonymous No.1414875]

>>1414805
Eh

[Anonymous No.1414936]

>>1414304
subsidies. new tractors for example are heavily subsidized in japan. that is why world is flooded with cheap old tractors. which are build as a tanks without any electrical nonsense

[Anonymous No.1414942]

this is the tractor I have, Kubota B2100, came with a rototiller and finish mower too, only $9300, already cleaned up a few wild acres with it, fun machine. Its small enough to fit in the garage even with the fixed rops, I need to get ag tires and chains though, its too steep here for turfs and winter is brutal

[Anonymous No.1414986]

>>1414743

>Any ideas on wtf size bucket. Arms, hydraulic pump i need?

How big is the engine? What type of soil are you digging into? Ripping out stumps?

[Anonymous No.1414987]

>>1414805

This.

75% of all cell towers has a Duetz generator in my country. The same company has the same standards across neighboring countries. So I wouldn't be surprised if it is the same there.

[Anonymous No.1415460]

>>1413640

Are there any manufacturers that sell this style of tractor these days?

Even the agri bois look like lawn mowers

[Anonymous No.1415758]

I have an old 666 international that has been sitting in a barn for 30 years. It it worth saving? One of the rims is rusted out, i havent checked if will turn over yet. Im either going to see if i can fix this or pick up a kubota or something, need it for a decent size garden plot and general farm work

[Anonymous No.1415801]

>>1414743
take your engine horsepower then google up what hydraulic pressure and flow you can sustain with about 3/4 of that engine HP. Fix the pressure at about 2000-2500 psi and find the flow you can support. size your pump based off that flow. Permco cast iron pumps if you have high hp and low rpms or cross / prince aluminum pumps if you're in a lower hp and high rpm small gas engine situation. Figure your bucket size based on psi and cylinder size (bigger cylinder will be slower cycle time, but more force per hyd. PSI). I.E. lifting 1000 lbs x 4 foot lever arm would give you 4000 ft-lb torque on the joint, so if you put the cylinder half way up the lever arm you'd need 8000 lb force, which comes out to 1600 psi on a 2.5" diameter cylinder. That means you could probably lift 1500 lb or more with your relief set at 2500 psi with a flow low enough to not stall out your engine. hell you could lift 1 million pounds slow as shit if you got a large enough cylinder and a small enough pump to not go over the hp of your motor. All depends on what you are trying to achieve.

[Anonymous No.1415810]

>>1415801
wops, 2000 lb force on a 2' segment of a 4' arm lifting 1000 lb. comes out to 400 psi on a 2.5" cylinder. you should probably use a smaller cylinder. All the rest remains true though.

[Anonymous No.1416761]

>>1415758

>One of the rims is rusted out

That is hardly a concern.

Look at the price of a working machine that will suit your needs so you can run back and fix the international

[Anonymous No.1416780]

>>1415758
This internationals are fucking Tanks. cheap and reliable and enogh spare Material for rust Away. I have an ih 353 and it Starts even After 5 jears in a Sheed with -20 degree celius.

[Anonymous No.1416783]

>>1414304
i know small scale hobby farmers that get by with 100 year old N series Ford tractors.

[Anonymous No.1416804]

>>1415758
666 is pretty good. Don’t worry about the rims, probably had or still has calcium in the tires which will do a number on the rims over time. Worse case used rims are fairly easy to come by and not too expensive. Is it diesel or gas? Be aware case has been discontinuing a lot of parts for the older tractors.

[Anonymous No.1416835]

>>1414333
compacts do have a place but yes the cost makes them far less desirable. compacts are good for very light duty work such as yard and garden work where a larger tractor would have trouble moving around. they are also pretty good for clearing snow especially the newer ones that have factory front mounted snow blowers. the newer ones also have a ton of attachments like loaders(and attachments), backhoes, and mower decks making them pretty versatile. of course they will never have the capacity of a larger tractor but they do have their uses.

that said i'd never buy one myself. my 80hp loader tractor cost me $35k used which is about what a bare bones compact costs new. not many compacts get traded so even used still run at least $20k without attachments

[Anonymous No.1416842]

>>1414335
wtf tractors have you been around? even in the 50s damn near every tractor in north america was liquid cooled. the air cooled euro tractors are also notoriously shitty and have very short engine life because they lack cooling. do any real work with an air cooled tractor and it's gonna shit the bed pretty damn quick

[Anonymous No.1416846]

>>1414619
what have you even contributed to this thread, let alone humanity as a whole, in the past 1400 years

[Anonymous No.1416847]

>>1416842
have you considered letting off the gas once in a while and not using your place of work as a muddin' field

[Anonymous No.1416854]

>>1416847
how fucking retarded are you? it's a tractor, if it can't work like a tractor is supposed to it's fucking garbage. you do realize most tractors spend nearly their entire lives running at full or near full throttle right?

[Anonymous No.1416864]

[Anonymous No.1416871]

[Anonymous No.1416873]

[Anonymous No.1416875]

[Anonymous No.1416879]

[Anonymous No.1416883]

[Anonymous No.1416885]

[Anonymous No.1416892]

>>1416885
I'd wager American farms are a hell of a lot bigger than Euro farms.

[Anonymous No.1416902]

>>1416892
>I'd wager American farms are a hell of a lot bigger than Euro farms.

americans like you are why they hate us. not because you point out a fucking obvious fact, but because you thing pointing out a fucking obvious fact does not make you look stupid.

sorry for the long sentence, but to boil it down to your level: fuck off.

[Anonymous No.1416908]

>>1416892
average Euro farm is 40 acres. they have a metric fuck ton of subsidies supporting them so they are actually much better off then NA farmers. the US does subside their farmers a bit too which helps but Canada doesn't do shit so many of their farmers are in a constant struggle to stay alive

[Anonymous No.1416910]

>>1416908
most small farms got killed by eu free trade
the medium sized survived through subsidies and the few with cash, built heavily subsidiesed bio fuel reactors and bought all the soil from the small farmes.

[Anonymous No.1416925]

>>1416835
I got my sub-compact for $2500, the highest price in the lot was around 9k. lot of imports from Japan - Kubota, Iseki, Zen-Noh, MItsibushi, Yanamar...

[Anonymous No.1417012]

>>1416925
only decent one of those bunch is Kubota. also that's a sub compact which is basically a glorified mower with very little extra utility

[Anonymous No.1417030]

>>1417012
Thats why i am reinforcing my mower frame, adding another axle, another motor, and and building a bucket for under $1,000

[Anonymous No.1417041]

>>1416783
this
I spent all day yesterday dragging logs with my 8N
She usually puts up a fight first start of the year, but after that, she's a trooper

[Anonymous No.1417838]

>>1416804
Its a diesel, hydrostatic drive, i dont know much about that. Ive got some friends much more mechanical than i am that are gonna help me, ill post some pics one day

[Anonymous No.1418552]

>>1417838
Diesel is good. Hydro hurts it a bit tho. Mostly because hydros rob a good bit of power but also because of it’s age if the hydro fucks up parts could be hard to find and expensive. Make sure you keep up with the hydraulic oil changes and don’t cheap out on generic shit, CIH oil is your best bet there.

One good part about it being hydro is that the linkage for the manual transmission on those was known to be a pain in the ass. Hydro is also better for loader work

[Anonymous No.1421074]

bumpkin bump

[Anonymous No.1421494]

muh yanmar fx22d
paid 7900€ couple years ago

[Anonymous No.1423070]

>>1421494
looks sweet. front end loader came with it?