/3dpg/ - 3D Printing General

[Anonymous No.1405973]

Old thread >>1401294

3D feels edition

Need help with prints? Post:
>filament type, bed & extruder temp, print & fan speed, etc

>general info
https://www.3dhubs.com/what-is-3d-printing
https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base
Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker

>open source community
http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Machines
http://forums.reprap.org/
#RepRap @freenode

>buyfag buyers guide
https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide
Any cheap chinkshit kit

>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki (lots of useful stuff)
http://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/index

>why do my prints look like shit, visual troubleshooting
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

>how to calibrate
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints
https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer
http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide
http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/
http://youtu.be/w_Wb0i0-Qvo

>where do I get files to print?
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://www.youmagine.com/
http://www.thingiverse.com/
https://www.myminifactory.com/

>what programs do you make your own files with
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing
http://www.freecadweb.org/
https://www.blender.org/
http://www.openscad.org/
https://www.onshape.com/
http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview

>what kind of filament do I want
Always start with PLA
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/28-material-guide
http://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare

>Hotends
e3d and its clones

>SLA&DLP
http://www.buildyourownsla.com/
http://www.nanodlp.com/

>SLS
http://sintratec.com/ SLS kit.

[Anonymous No.1405980]

I can skip all of the printer settings in octopi if i am going to be using only gcode with it right?

[Anonymous No.1406067]

>>1405980
I would think so, but i find the printer controls move x,y,z, extrude,retract,etc are much more convenient than using the printer's menu, so you may want to do it anyway.

[Anonymous No.1406074]

>>1406067
Nothing beats just entering straight gcode commands in the terminal

[Anonymous No.1406094]

>do a big 4 hours print
>prints flawlessly
>take it off and start another
>cant even make the first layer to paint properly
jesus fucking christ this shit is killing me inside

[Anonymous No.1406099]

>>1406094
>"consumer-ready technology"

[Anonymous No.1406100]

>>1406099
Power tools are also "consumer ready technology" but that won't stop you from cutting your fingers off if you don't use it properly, what's your point?

[Anonymous No.1406101]

>>1406099
If it actually works it's awesome.
But it's like 50% printing time and 50% me untangling the extruded hot filament from the nozzle, washing off and reapplying glue sticks and fucking calibrating the bed over and over and over again and of course restarting the fucking prints X times.
The print never sticks to the bed just right.
It's always "FUCK IT'S BENDING UP" or "FUCK i will need a fucking blowtorch to unweld this fucker from the bed"

[Anonymous No.1406128]

>>1405973
i thought the consensus of the general was to wait for the thread to be bumped off the board first

>we've become /ohm/

[Anonymous No.1406130]

>>1406128
Could be worse, we could be /vg/
>three different competing threads, each with a different shit waifu in the op

[Anonymous No.1406144]

Would love to get better quality on my minis.
>0.4 mm Nozzle
>1.75 mm Hatchbox PLA
>220 C Nozzle Temp
>Non Heated Bed
>0.2 mm Layer Height
>60 mm/s Print Speed
>"Enabled" Print Cooling

[Anonymous No.1406154]

>>1406144
>>"Enabled" Print Cooling
But do you actually have a print cooling fan? Enabling features you don't have isn't going to help shit.
Anyway, you seem to be overextruding. Try reducing your flow to 90%.

[Anonymous No.1406158]

>>1406144
Reduce layer height, halve print speed, lower temperature.

[Anonymous No.1406161]

>>1406101
Honestly it's not that hard.

>Level bed
>Heat bed
>Apply hairspray

Works for me every time

[Anonymous No.1406173]

The default was at 100%
Had to change visibility settings

[Anonymous No.1406194]

>>1406094
>thinks 4 hours is a big print

kek

[Anonymous No.1406197]

>>1406128
I get the feeling this thread was not started by the usual guy. The OP image is the first red flag.

[Anonymous No.1406230]

>>1405973
>printed without supports
FAKE AND GAY

[Anonymous No.1406252]

>>1406100
> comparing a tool that is computer controller to a chop saw
> comparing a 3D printer that can't do same job twice to chop saw that can

[Anonymous No.1406324]

>>1406197
He also altered the pasta.

[Anonymous No.1406332]

>>1406074
I don't doubt it. My gcodefu is not on your level. I do like being able to poke a button or two on my phone or tablet to do those things. I usually have the octoprint interface up for monitoring a print. Typing on a touch screen sucks.

I only mention this because it's not a use case I had in mind when I set it up. Setting it up for your printer prbably only takes an extra 5 min anyway.

[Anonymous No.1406333]

>>1406144
>>1406158
I agree with this. Also, if you can upgrade your cooling it will help. Blower fan vs flat square fan. Even pointing a room cooling fan towards your printer can help

[Anonymous No.1406334]

Anyone ever try one of those petsfang cooling systems on a CR10/Ender style printer? Do they make a considerable difference in bridging and fine detail stuff?

[Anonymous No.1406346]

>>1406144
0.2mm nozzle and 0.08mm layer height.

[Anonymous No.1406347]

>>1406334
>petsfang cooling system
dude that's way too big and bulky and probably too angular for good airflow. Try one of these instead.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2792412
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1906391
I've got the supercooler and it's really strong.

[Anonymous No.1406362]

>>1406347
Thanks for the advice, I'll give that mittens one a shot when my little blower fan arrives.

[Anonymous No.1406367]

If the nozzle diameter is .4mm how can a layer height be set to .2mm? Seems impossible

[Anonymous No.1406370]

>>1406367
Take a tube of toothpaste and try to squeeze it when it's closer to a surface than the diameter of its orifice. It's possible, you just have to configure the printer to regulate flow.

[Anonymous No.1406371]

PETG sounds pretty great.
What's the drawback?

[Anonymous No.1406373]

>>1406371
It's used to make coca cola bottles

[Anonymous No.1406376]

>>1406094
>big 4 hour print

Jesus christ millenials are so impatient :)

[Anonymous No.1406377]

>>1406101
Am I the only person who never encounters bed adhesion problems? Just use blue tape its literally that easy.

[Anonymous No.1406379]

>>1406371
Need an all metal hotend?

[Anonymous No.1406380]

>>1406377
But masking tape is one sided, so if you put it sticky way up it will ripple on the bed

[Anonymous No.1406381]

>>1406371
It's more prone to stringing than PLA and it is more flexible, which might be undesirable depending on your use case.

[Anonymous No.1406385]

>>1406380
it goes sticky side down

I've never had problems with PLA, PETG, or TPU with 3M blue tape on an unheated bed.

[Anonymous No.1406386]

>>1406367
lmao what

[Anonymous No.1406387]

>>1406385
>it goes sticky side down
I'm gonna try it but i have doubts. I doubt the non sticky side will have better adhesion than the metal plate.
Also, how hard is it to clean the tape from the plate?

[Anonymous No.1406388]

>>1406371
It's slightly more annoying to print with than PLA due to slightly less adhesion. But I've been using PETG only for years.

[Anonymous No.1406390]

>>1406387
lmao dude how can you doubt that? It's been one of the the industry standards for bed adhesion for years.

[Anonymous No.1406392]

>>1406390
>industry standards f
Industry standard is a heated bed son.

[Anonymous No.1406394]

>>1406392
I don't need to wait for my bed to heat up if I use blue tape. I only heat up my bed if the part is fairly large.

[Anonymous No.1406398]

>>1406392
Have fun wasting electricity.

[Anonymous No.1406401]

Do you think it will be possible to remove these supports?
The print is basically a hollow handle

[Anonymous No.1406402]

>>1406387

>I have my doubts
>t. Dude who can't even print PLA consistently without tearing their dick off and levelling their bed 14 times to nanometer precision

Blue painters tape is designed not to leave any/much shit on the surface after removal, especially effective on metals. Works with heated and unheated beds. Literally any blue painters tape will work.

[Anonymous No.1406404]

>>1406401
Show full part.

[Anonymous No.1406405]

>>1406371

Strings more and is harder to bridge. It is my favorite though.

>>1406197

>All those photos of people's labour not making in into a collage pic...

[Anonymous No.1406406]

>>1406404

[Anonymous No.1406409]

>>1406406
Dude you aren't supposed to print that hollow, throw in some infill to support the roof.

[Anonymous No.1406410]

>>1406409
I downloaded that model from thingverse and so i know it can be printed, also that is why therese is the support there to prevent the roof from collapsing

[Anonymous No.1406413]

>>1406406
You shouldn't even need supports. It should bridge just fine on its own.

[Anonymous No.1406414]

>>1406413
Oh it was meant to be hollow, well alright then. You don't need supports for that dude, that ceiling will print just fine. Not to mention that it doesn't really matter even if it comes out looking a bit bad since it's hidden inside the shaft.

[Anonymous No.1406415]

>>1406413
I can try it, but i am kind of scared of the roof collapsing without the supports as I don't want to waste all that plastic

[Anonymous No.1406416]

>>1406413
>>1406414
And also, remember to print that other part of the spool holder laying flat on the bed, that way the layers line up so that it is the strongest.

[Anonymous No.1406418]

>>1406415
nah don't worry about it, after you've printed a bit you can tell which kind or roofs will need support and which ones wont, and i can tell you that that roof does not need support.

[Anonymous No.1406420]

>>1406416
I already printed it and it came out great

[Anonymous No.1406421]

Man what the hell is up with this design anyway? Why would you need the shaft to be screwed in? Just added complexity, i bet that out new guy here doesn't have his printer fully configured so the threads won't come out perfect and the whole thing wont work. A bad design honestly, making the shaft a permanent part of the structure would have worked just as well.

[Anonymous No.1406423]

>>1406421
I am already counting on the threads to not fit, i will basically either force screw it in or file the threads down some and then screw it in and superglue it shut so it will be fine either way

[Anonymous No.1406424]

>>1406420
looks good

[Anonymous No.1406433]

>>1406421
If designer had any sense, there should be some tolerance gap between male and female thread. With such coarse thread even 0.5mm gap would still work. But really this could be printed all as one piece.

[Anonymous No.1406434]

>>1406415
You should print an overhang and bridging test print. Some nice ones on thingiverse. Will give you an idea of how well the printer works.

[Anonymous No.1406439]

Has anyone ever made a 3d printer based on kinematics like seen in this video?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sx0gS7jqg8w

[Anonymous No.1406465]

Alright, just came back from an adhesion + printing safety shopping spree
No more layer adhesion problems and house fires for this guy

[Anonymous No.1406467]

>>1406465
But holy shit, the blue tape is fucking EXPENSIVE
I really hope one layer lasts for 10 prints at least

[Anonymous No.1406468]

>>1406467
>>1406465
if that's a glass bed you can use hair spray as well. been using it for about 2 years. spray it on before preheat and by the time you're up to heat the moisture is mostly gone and you should get a nice glassy first layer.

[Anonymous No.1406469]

>>1406468
i got two plates to test one is a mirror and one is 4mm glass

[Anonymous No.1406471]

>>1406469
a mirror could be cool but don't know how it would hold up.

[Anonymous No.1406472]

>>1406471
I don't have a heated bed so it should be fine. I saw some youtubers recommend it so i got it too.

[Anonymous No.1406480]

>>1406472
Why not just buy a heated bed? They cost like $10.

[Anonymous No.1406481]

>>1406480
I did. but it will take over a month to arrive and I also want the ability to print without a heated bed. because for longer prints i wont always be home and i would never leave a heated bed on if i'm not at home

[Anonymous No.1406482]

The blue tape seems to be working great let's hope it will last since this print is pretty tall

[Anonymous No.1406485]

>>1406482
Not too sure about the printing temps tho. Simplify3D selected 190 but the recommendation is 205.. well we will see.

[Anonymous No.1406493]

>>1406482
That tape looks super shiny. Sure you got painters masking tape?

[Anonymous No.1406494]

>>1406493
Yes, it's called blue painter's tape and they don't even have any others in the store.
The other tapes they had were yellow and made out of paper.

[Anonymous No.1406495]

>>1406494
huh isn't the blue tape everybody is getting made out of paper as well?

[Anonymous No.1406497]

>>1406495
I don't know i never used it before. This one is made from plastic. I think this is maybe even better, because the first layer ahesion problem is that it has a shit grab on metal, or glass and such, but the layers above are always 100% fine because they are placed on top of plastic layers under them. SInce the tape is plastic the first layer goes directly onto plastic and should hold on like a motherfucker.
When the print finishes I will test how hard it will be to remove the print from the tape.

[Anonymous No.1406510]

>>1406497
If it's plastic it might get melted and you might not be able to use the surface for more than one print.

[Anonymous No.1406512]

>>1406510
That would be actually good because i would have a 100% guaranteed adhesion method for prints with shitty small base without having to use rafts or skirts

[Anonymous No.1406514]

>>1406512
I suppose but it is still an inferior option compared to rafts and skirts, the plastic is only 20e per kg. But if it works it works.

[Anonymous No.1406528]

Beautiful, it is pretty much flawless

[Anonymous No.1406530]

>>1406528
wow, not cool simplify 3D
after it finished printing it left the extruder in place and it started melting a hole into the print

[Anonymous No.1406534]

I'm a total beginner and this week decided to try and model some jewelry holders to hang inside the wardrobe. Can someone go trought the files to see if it's printable and give some advice like if there's a better, more efficient way to do some pieces. Especially the red parts, I have no idea if they can be printed or not. I have no 3d printer and plan of finding a shop in my city and have them print the projects, any idea how much it would cost?
Used thinkercad because it looked like the most simple and straightforward program for a beginner to use https://www.tinkercad.com/things/4YauWCoP318
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/b9qlYa0pu2Y
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/k2bMdd97VBm
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/hy3q2FIZ7G2

[Anonymous No.1406536]

Absolutely ZERO wiggle it fits perfectly
I am really happy

[Anonymous No.1406538]

>>1406528
is you printer not big enough so you are also printing a large screw on glans for that dildo?

[Anonymous No.1406539]

>>1406538
If i wanted to print dildos big enough for me, it would need a MUCH bigger printer.

[Anonymous No.1406542]

>>1406530
That's odd, maybe you can turn that on in some settings menu? Every slicer i've used so far has had that feature.

[Anonymous No.1406545]

>>1406534
rings: just print that red part upright
shades: remove those green thingies, you can configure support in the slicer
bracelets: ok i guess but seems way too complicated, also the inside geometry is not necessary on those barrels, infill can be changed in the slicer, and why print those endcaps as separate pieces?
Honestly personally i would recommend you get your own printer but if you do not know how to work with mechanical machines then i guess you could order prints but it's gonna be expensive.

[Anonymous No.1406549]

>>1406545
Also, when using the cylinder shape in tinkercad be sure to increase the amount of segments to the max of 64 or so. Or even better, find one of the cylinder shapes in Shape generators > All that has 100 segments, very smooth shape. Or if you want even smoother, take the 100 segment cylinder, duplicate it, rotate the duplicated one 1.8 degrees and combine them. Now you have a cylinder with 200 faces.

[Anonymous No.1406550]

I still have one dead printer that I haven't had time to get running again. But even with that one out of production the rest of my printers have manage to outpace my ability to assemble and package orders. So it's all good.

[Anonymous No.1406551]

>>1406542
I looked at the ending script and it says

M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
M84 ; disable motors

I think this is the problem.
Can you provide a code line that will lift the extruder before turning it off?

[Anonymous No.1406553]

>>1406550
How many sales have you made?
I can't imagine there is this much demand for custom assembled nerf blasters when every toy store carries them.

[Anonymous No.1406555]

>>1406545
You mean like this right?
>why print those endcaps as separate pieces?
So as to remove them in case a bracelet gets stuck, can't open the clasp, or if it has a smaller circumference than the end cap. But yeah I thought it would be too complicated. Maybe I could just glue the intermidiate piece with glue or hot filament, same with the hanger hook

[Anonymous No.1406559]

>>1406551
This block should go ahead of all of those.

G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F1000 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X+20 F8000
G90 X215 F10000 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
M84 ;steppers off
G90

Or

Just look up what a typical end code is for your specific printer. Some have a "wait for part to cool" position that they hold at before moving to a retract position.

[Anonymous No.1406562]

Well... fuck

[Anonymous No.1406569]

>>1406367
Nozzle diameter sets the width of the extrusion, and layer height has nothing to do with that. Guy mentioning toothpaste gave a great example.

[Anonymous No.1406571]

>>1406553
>How many sales have you made?
550 blasters (kit or assembled) and 400 hardware kits in the past year
>I can't imagine there is this much demand for custom assembled nerf blasters when every toy store carries them.
The ones you buy in stores range from 60 to 100fps. Mine ranges from 100 to 250+fps depending on which of the four main springs you install.

[Anonymous No.1406572]

How do I stop filament looping?
When the filament starts coming out it starts looping upwards and then attaches it self to the side of the nozzle and it often forces me to restart the print, since the filament starts piling up there into a ball.
I tried to wipe it with some toilet paper when it was hot and with cloth too but it still does it.

[Anonymous No.1406573]

>>1406494
You got scammed bro. The real chads use the papery type as the other anon mentioned.

[Anonymous No.1406575]

Print it so that the layers are horizontal when installed. Im pretty sure someone else mentioned that before you printed.

[Anonymous No.1406576]

>>1406572
Better quality nozzles reduce this problem apparently, at least thats what the shills at e3d say.

[Anonymous No.1406580]

>>1406575
If you mean the spool holder then they ment the first part, which i did print laying down.

But i can't print this one without some pretty ugly supports all over because of the bring it has.
I think i tightened it too much and it snapped the layer. I will print it again and not tighten it so much this time

[Anonymous No.1406582]

>>1406576
Can't I just rub it in oil or something?
It is so fricking annoying, having to babysit the start of every single print.

[Anonymous No.1406592]

>>1406562
oof

[Anonymous No.1406593]

>>1406592
The one good thing about 3D printed parts breaking is that you can always just make more

[Anonymous No.1406594]

>>1406572
Why are you extruding in the air?

[Anonymous No.1406598]

>>1406594
When the nozzle heats up a bit of filament comes out, I guess it is a leftover from previous print.
But even if I tear it off right before it moves to print, there is a chance that when it starts laying down the first layer, it will coils and start pilling up at the nozzle.
Luckily, once the first layer is down it works fine.

[Anonymous No.1406600]

>>1406580
Just add the supports you plastic jew. It will be significantly harder to break it if you print it lying down and you wont even need very dense supports.

[Anonymous No.1406602]

>>1406593
Yea but honestly that design is such a piece of shit anyway, why not print something like this?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2952820

[Anonymous No.1406603]

>>1406598
Sounds like you might have your nozzle too close to the bed tbqh. Rubbing oil won't do shit, the better nozzles have coatings to keep the plastic off it.

[Anonymous No.1406605]

>>1406600
>It will be significantly harder to break it if you print it lying down
Can you explain why? I would imagine that stacking the plastic rings vertically... oh i get it.. lying down will place the layers across the pressure point and then instead of simply separating two layers, the break would have to tears the fillament lines...
Well I already started the vertical print, if it breaks again I will do it like you said.

[Anonymous No.1406607]

>>1406598
Dude you do have skirt enabled, don't you?
>>1406600
Those thread won't like getting printed like on their side.

[Anonymous No.1406609]

>>1406607
>Dude you do have skirt enabled, don't you?
Of course, but the skirt won't do shit when the filament starts piling up at the nozzle while printing it.

[Anonymous No.1406612]

>>1406607
Yeah possibly but interlayer breakage is gonna be a problem on a load bearing part. The design could be improved.

>>1406605
Yeah exactly. Interlayer strength is the ultimate weakpoint of any print. Adding extra shells can help if the print doesnt work out lying. Infill is a meme, shells are the real strength.

[Anonymous No.1406615]

>>1406612
I also bumped the temperature up from 190 to 200 to ensure better layer merging

[Anonymous No.1406617]

>>1406573
I will try the paper one as well, to see if it works better. Looks like the plastic one isn't anything to write home about.

[Anonymous No.1406636]

>>1406617
Yeah it absolutely needs to be that masking tape texture. I reckon the surface roughness of it helps a lot.

[Anonymous No.1406638]

>>1406603
Well i am calibrating the bed with a piece of A4, so that i feel it rubbing against the nozzle, but not too hard.

[Anonymous No.1406658]

>>1406562
>printing hollow load bearing parts
>only supporting from one end
>placing weight (spool of filiment) on the unsupported piece, torquing the weakest point of the design.

Just because something prints without flaws, does not mean the design is flawless. How did you not realize this huge weakness when you were looking through the layers and debating on removing the support material?
It looks like the screw part only connected for a few layers into the spool holding shaft.

[Anonymous No.1406659]

>>1406658
because other people are using it without any problems

[Anonymous No.1406660]

>>1406539
This do it?

[Anonymous No.1406661]

>>1406660
Man that's literally the worst frame the could have chosen. 3 big supported poles and some wire would have been a hundred times better.

[Anonymous No.1406663]

>>1406660
Imagine having your print fail after you reloaded the spool 500 times

[Anonymous No.1406672]

>>1406659
Other people probably didn't print it hollow and might have printed it from ABS and vapour'd it

[Anonymous No.1406673]

>>1406439
Literally what Delta and Scala printers do.

[Anonymous No.1406675]

>>1406481
You do know that you can simply unplug the bed, or just set your slicer to not use it?

[Anonymous No.1406682]

>>1406659
I personally see nothing wrong with trial amd error, but you're the one concerned about wasting plastic here. That design is shit and its failure has a lot more to do with that than how tightly you screwed the bugger in.

[Anonymous No.1406683]

>>1406638
Go a tiny bit higher than that, until the moment you cant feel rubbing (or hardly at all). The A4 method gets misused a lot and people end up with ridiculously close bed-nozzle heights (which is exaggerated by imperfect bed surfaces). There is always a decent window of height where it will be ok.

[Anonymous No.1406689]

>>1406660
>chink glyphs
>chinesium frame
>awful motion layout choice
>telephone cable bowden hookup

God bless Xi Jipingpong, glorious leader.

[Anonymous No.1406690]

I superglued it this time, hopefully it will hold this time

[Anonymous No.1406692]

>>1406675
I don't see what that has to do with printing on a hot bed while you are not at home?

[Anonymous No.1406698]

>>1406692
>"I don't want to print on a heated bed when I'm not at home"
>"You can unplug the heated bed, or set the slicer to not use it"
>"What does that have to do with anything?"
An unplugged or software-disabled heated bed is the same as an unheated bed.

[Anonymous No.1406701]

>>1406367
.4mm is the size of the extrusion in the x and y planes. The layer height is how tall the extrusion will be. Picture each layer as a series of .4mm dots, your printer moves from one to the next after extruding out the amount required for the layer height. Your printer does this continuously and smoothly.

[Anonymous No.1406705]

>>1406698
I was talking about printing with the bed on while not home

[Anonymous No.1406707]

>>1406481
>because for longer prints i wont always be home and i would never leave a heated bed on if i'm not at home
I'm saying you wouldn't have to, you can easily set it to not use the bed heating.

[Anonymous No.1406714]

Tried to print some finer details and failed, i dont get it tho where is the fillament that was to be used for the top part? I dont see a filament pile anywhere and octopi says 100% done

[Anonymous No.1406715]

>>1406714
Might have hit a temperature sensing trigger and turned extrusion off. The only sign of this happening is that you get a half-done print with a clear cut, no filament piles.

[Anonymous No.1406721]

>>1406714
Check layer view in cura. The detail may be too thin for the settings.

[Anonymous No.1406734]

>>1406715
>>1406721
Fuck. I think the extruder got jammed.
I just tried heting up to 200 and then extruding filament and nothing is coming out.

[Anonymous No.1406737]

>>1406481
>i would never leave a heated bed on if i'm not at home
Just don't use a no-name brand PSU and you're fine.

[Anonymous No.1406745]

>>1406737
PSU is not really the issue. If the bed comes loose as the printer base is jerking around it would set my shelf on fire since its made out of wood.
Same thing if the temperature sensor breaks etc.. or if something falls one the bed and catches fire, or when you are printing with a filament made from gasoline.. you never know

[Anonymous No.1406748]

>>1406734
Try completely powering it down and starting it up again, if it works then, it was the temperature lock, if it doesn't work, jammed.

[Anonymous No.1406804]

>>1406439
That particular arangement seems to have a lot of unsuable space due to the limitations caused by the arm size. I think a corexy has better interior space utilization for being constrained by a box as that seems to be.

[Anonymous No.1406863]

>>1406539
>>1406660

[Anonymous No.1406866]

>>1406550
>dead printer

you could have sold that dead mp mini
>or send the hot end to me for free...

[Anonymous No.1406873]

>>1406714
i have tried that software when started with printing, it looks nice and all but slicing results are weak. recommend checking the cliced preview or changing clicers if u have nay issues in the future.

if u are using this for a while can u tell me how it works for you?

[Anonymous No.1406919]

>>1406658
more importantly
>printing load bearing parts with the grain going with shear lines

[Anonymous No.1406931]

>>1406130
The early days of generals were much worse
>2012
>every conceivable general had multiple versions each rife with autists bitching and moaning about what the OP image should be
Generals are cancer. The worst offenders were the desktop threads.

[Anonymous No.1406932]

>>1406465
I had a dream last night that we moved house and I forgot to take my smoke detectors so had to go back to the old house and ask for them.

[Anonymous No.1407019]

>>1406714
Slic3r Prusa Edition will just not print shit if it's narrower than the extruder x2. Don't know what slicer you're using, but might be worth considering.

[Anonymous No.1407030]

>>1406919
That whole design is a shit show. If guy wants to waste time, material and effort to keep that exact spool holder, more power to him.
It'll be a great learning experience to get an idea of the strengths and weaknesses in 3d printing. So far the only one worried about wasting material was him, and he'll learn right quick that this tech is now foolproof and a lot of wasted material is to be expected.

[Anonymous No.1407083]

>>1406439
>unless your joints are perfectly rigid, you'll always have skew from the extruder and motor itself weighing down and acting as a lever
No thanks

[Anonymous No.1407104]

what do you use as a printing surface? Original metal bed, glass, or tape?

[Anonymous No.1407106]

>>1406572
Add a makerbot style wipe gcode to the start. The idea is to get the nozzle close enough to the bed during heat up so the plastic sticks onto the bed. The wipe will clean it off.

[Anonymous No.1407117]

>>1407104
Glass, my bed's a heated board with no cover. Covered in thinned elmer's glue so prints stick to the bed.

[Anonymous No.1407118]

>>1407117
the whole point of using glass is so that you don't have to use glue

[Anonymous No.1407121]

>>1407118
What. That's news to me, the thing even came with a gluestick.

[Anonymous No.1407122]

>>1407104
Metal bed with hairspray covering it

[Anonymous No.1407136]

Using up scrap rolls of filiment to make the world's ugliest gimbal corrected camera mount.
Damn it's nice having this bitch. A year ago I would have just dropped a couple hundred on a steady mount. Now I'm using essentially garbage material to bust one out while I watch shitty horror movies. Good times.

[Anonymous No.1407157]

>>1407136
>prusa
why blow all that money? for that kind of dosh you could get a good full metal printer where most of the parts aren't made from shitty abs worth 10c while you are paying hundreds of $ for it
Can't believe people are willing to buy their stuff

[Anonymous No.1407176]

>>1407136
I am not him, but seriously, which printer? Which one is a good alternative?

[Anonymous No.1407178]

>>1407157
I've got slightly more money than time to fuck around. I'm sure I could have gotten much more for my money, but my primary goal for the printer involved a project that was royally pissing me off and needed to be finished (spoiler; that project is still unfinished).
The Prusa was within my budget, and seemed about as user-friendly as it gets in the 3d printing market.
No judgement on the other people using other machines. Circumstances just directed me to this one.

TL/DR: I could afford it

[Anonymous No.1407194]

>>1407176
No printer is perfect.
The difference is that for some of the imperfect printers you are overpaying by a margin of 100% or more
Don't be afraid of chinkters

[Anonymous No.1407277]

>>1407176
The one you built by yourself.

[Anonymous No.1407278]

Give me a quick rundown on open source brushless motors.

[Anonymous No.1407301]

>>1407277
>>1407194
Enjoy your houses going up in flames.

[Anonymous No.1407304]

>>1407301
Even a 2000$ printer cna throw a tantrum and burn your house down.
You just have to know how to properly take care if your printer baby and you will be safe.
Get a smoke detector, remote camera and never print with a heated bed on when you aren't at home.

[Anonymous No.1407306]

Can you start overextruding if you print at a higher temperature? I recently switched to 210 from 200 to print the same PLA and it started overextruding about half way through the print (I believe it just built up over the layers, solid infill)

[Anonymous No.1407308]

>>1407301
Just replace the chink PSU with a half-decent ATX PSU

[Anonymous No.1407309]

where in simplify 3D do i set that i want the first layer to print at 210C instead of 200C?

[Anonymous No.1407314]

Hmm, do you think the nozzle is too far?

[Anonymous No.1407315]

>>1407304
>>1407308
Okay.

[Anonymous No.1407317]

>>1407301
Dude i can get an used computer PSU for 10e which is completely safe.

[Anonymous No.1407319]

>>1407315
that fire happened because of a failed thermistor. It can happen to any printer, has nothing to do with a kit vs prebuilt

Marlin software now has failsafes to stop this kind of a failure.
Stop being a faggot

[Anonymous No.1407322]

>>1407317
>10e
how do you have to pay for it? I have several at home from old computers and i only buy a new computer like once in 10 years

[Anonymous No.1407323]

>>1407319
Plus you can install second temperature sensor for extra security

[Anonymous No.1407324]

>>1407322
Not him, but I always reuse my PSU for the latest PC.
The only spare one I have lying around would be the AT one from my 486, which is too weak.

[Anonymous No.1407326]

>>1407324
That can only happen if you switch computers often. I can hardly use the 300W PSU from my 10 years old PC in my new one when it's too weak and doesn't even have enough connectors, plus using a very aged PSU in a new machine would be just silly
But it can power my heated bed like nothing.

[Anonymous No.1407327]

>>1407326
300W would work with my current PC.
I never get high-end power-hungry components.

Also I replaced my ATX PSU at least once, because the old one broke.

[Anonymous No.1407333]

>>1407326
>>1407327
All my old computers are IBMs which I refuse to dismantle for parts. Goodwill has crates of PSUs for $5.

[Anonymous No.1407334]

>>1407306
The amount extruded is determined by the extruder motor. There is some effect of gravity, but it should not be relevant unless you're printing incredibly slow with a large diameter nozzle.

[Anonymous No.1407341]

>>1407334
I think what I thought was overextrusion is actually just overheating. Printing a fan duct to help this hopefully.

[Anonymous No.1407367]

>>1407314
Looks like it, yeah. Your painter's tape also looks more like wide, thin electrical tape, might be a regional thing. If it works, it works, I guess.

[Anonymous No.1407401]

>>1407367
Yeah, it's the wrong tape, they store only had one blue painter's tape, but only too late have I found out it's supposed to be made out of paper and this one is plastic.
But i want to use it since i paid for it, with a bit of glue stick it works well.

[Anonymous No.1407444]

>>1407157
I was looking at $300 printers and reading stories of what it takes to get a nice print out of them, decided my time was worth more than the $300 price difference and went with a MK2S. The xyz calibrate alone was worth the price, I've been printing perfectly since my first test print.

[Anonymous No.1407448]

>>1407444
>xyz calibrate
no no JUST NO
there is no bigger plastic jew than XYZ they lock down their printers to their own incredibly (200% mark up) fillament and you cannot use any other.
So does your store have 1000tons of diffrent fillaments in stock but no overpriced xyz shit (very likely not that many stores carry them)?
too bad no printing for you

[Anonymous No.1407470]

Yay pretty little rpi box for octopi brain
Too bad I don't have any screws

[Anonymous No.1407504]

So I have a cr-10 and everything works its just that the extruder has a hard time extruding and the print is always very light almost spiderwebish.
Any ideas as to what could be wrong?

[Anonymous No.1407508]

Where should I get machine screws and extruded aluminum? Is online really the best option?

[Anonymous No.1407515]

>>1407136
Looks pretty cool

[Anonymous No.1407517]

>>1407508
What country are you in? The machine screws you can just buy in bulk from Aliexpress. They tend to be the same thing your local retailer will sell you.

[Anonymous No.1407518]

>>1407448
He's talking about a feature in Prusa's i3, not the XYZ Printing company

>>1407401
Printing on plastic tape is fine. People use PET tape too and it seems to work wonders for PLA.

[Anonymous No.1407541]

>>1407518
Do chink i3 clones not have that feature?

[Anonymous No.1407545]

>>1407277
I am working on it. But it will be more expensive than original prusa, but also hopefully better.

>>1407194
You still didn't answer which printer is good alternative to prusa for much less money. They might print with the same quality if you put some work into it, they might even do that out of the box. At least visually. What about squareness? When you have to glue together two parts that are 200x200mm big, you might find out that edges don't line up properly, because y and x axis aren't perpendicular. And how straight are those v-extrusions really? No one knows. Not to mention reliability and ease of use.
I would agree with you, if they would be just rebranding chink printers, but they are actually doing their own development and production in EU, which isn't cheap. Of coarse there is some mark up. Bmw i8 isn't cheap. But I still think it is worth the money, unlike some other brand name printers (looking at Ultimaker)

>>1407504
check this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x35aWmnZ_A0&t=0s

[Anonymous No.1407667]

>>1406866
>you could have sold that dead mp mini
Eh, the controller board on it is crap or needs repairs that I haven't been able to perform correctly yet and the hold-up is that this older Mini-RAMBO board has a different stepper pinout than the newer board I got as a replacement.

So the newer board is either going to need its firmward modified or I need to replace all the stepper motors currently in the frame. And I'm so busy with everything else that I don't have time to dick with either option.

So I'm leaning towards selling it and using whatever money I get to buy another refurbished one.

[Anonymous No.1407712]

>>1406571
Did you actually design that or are you just printing and selling?

[Anonymous No.1407727]

>>1407448
Damn, didn't know Prusa only prints proprietary filiment. I've been running all kinds of dirt cheap garbage through mine.

[Anonymous No.1407729]

I'm about to have a stroke.
My Geeetech i3 Pro B started to get stuck pretty often in the last weeks, and now I'm at the point where I don't even get that thing here unstuck.
I managed to get the plastic out of the copper screw tube, but while doing that, I also pulled out some kind of plastic tube, so I guess I can't use that part anymore.
Also, there's still plastic stuck in the part below the screw tube, and no matter what I try, it's stuck in there.

Long story short, what is this thing called so I can order replacements?

[Anonymous No.1407730]

>>1407727
Not prusa, xyz printers, you cannot use othet filaments in them at all, as in they wont let you

[Anonymous No.1407732]

Which screws do i use for the usual 3d printed screw holes like to screw in my rpi to the 3d printed case?

[Anonymous No.1407733]

>>1407545
>You still didn't answer which printer is good alternative to prusa for much less money.
Not the anon you've been getting on with, but I bought a refurbished monoprice maker select v2 (got a v2.1, thankfully) for $200 shipped. 4 bolts to put the two parts together and I was printing nearly as well as what I've seen from the Prusa Mk2. Found that the frame came slightly out of square so my great prints were slanted I assume this was $200 difference in getting refurbished. Fixed that with a square and loosening and retightning a dozen screws. This is a steel frame printer, not plywood or acrylic like most of the crap everyone talks about here. IDK why everyone here seems obsessed with saving $40 to get an a8 or similar, but there are inexpensive, preassembled printers that are at least in the ballpark of an older Prusa like yours. After doing some mostly printed upgrades and settings changes I am now printing as well as just about anything I've seen pics of.

I am absolutely not trying to shit on prusa. That guy and what he's done for 3d printing and the reprap community is amazing. Anyone who can and is willing to support his efforts should. He continues to innovate and share those innovations. You sound proud of your purchase and should be. I just wanted to put forth my experience and answer to your question.

[Anonymous No.1407737]

>>1407733
prusa is the Apple of 3d printers

[Anonymous No.1407738]

>>1407733
With my cheap ass $150 chink printer which came all metal and fully assembled I am not only getting pretty much flawless prints, but they even included an uplifting motivational card with mottos such as
"Let its take you Travel 3D print world"
Very inspirational!
Let me see your crappy overpriced $1 000 000 ABS frame prusa do that.

[Anonymous No.1407749]

>>1407730
I was being sarcastic about the other guy sperging out.

[Anonymous No.1407770]

Got a proper painter tape this time, lets see if it can perform better without needing glue stick like the plastic tape

[Anonymous No.1407771]

>>1407770
Also i am going to print out some shelf with compartments to hold small screws and electrical components like reistors and shit, any recommendations? There is a metic shit ton on the thingyverse

[Anonymous No.1407779]

>>1407770
What backwards shithole do you live in where "blue painter's tape" is made of plastic and your paper painter's tape looks like more plastic garbage? p

[Anonymous No.1407780]

>>1407779
wow, jealous much?

[Anonymous No.1407782]

>>1407729
Okay, I probably have to buy a completely new extruder.

What's the "it just works" of 3d printers? At about 500 bucks preferably, or lower, if available. I don't want to keep fixing everything all the time.

[Anonymous No.1407787]

>>1407780
Super jelly of your continued 3d printing failures.

[Anonymous No.1407790]

>>1407779
Are you genuinely retarded? The blue stuff he got isn't painter's tape. I'm guessing wide electrical tape or similar.
The light stuff has nothing to do with plastic. It's more like paper.
The only reason you think painter's tape is blue is because you've been cucked into submission by Scotch/3M.

[Anonymous No.1407794]

Which 3D printer would you guys recommend for a first timer?
I am currently considering the Monoprice Select V2, but also quite intrigued with the Tevo Tarantula and Anet A8.
I have heard good things of Creality CR-10 and Anycubic i3 Mega.
So anyway, my criteria would be below 500 bucks and able to go at least 100 micron in resolution.

[Anonymous No.1407799]

>>1407448

Do you have the image of Pepe with "Fuck you and your Davinci printers"? It appears to be a pretty useful reaction image over here.

[Anonymous No.1407804]

>>1407779
>more plastic garbage
How does it look like plastic?
It's looks fibrous

[Anonymous No.1407808]

>>1407794
>able to go at least 100 micron in resolution.

Your first mistake there, is falling for the "layer height as resolution" marketing meme. Literally every printer can go below that.

I woiuld not go for the Monoprice because it has no heated bed and no easy way to add one. I'd go with either the i3 Mega or Tarantula, their frames are sturdy. CR-10 is cool but having a large bed for printing big parts is kind of a meme as you won't be using the whole build volume that often.

[Anonymous No.1407811]

>>1407808
I see, so you'd recommend to prioritise sturdy frame instead?
I thought Tevo has quality control issues? Is it generally recitifiable on our own or do you need to order replacements?

[Anonymous No.1407817]

>>1407782
>At about 500 bucks
u wot m8? My entire printer cost under 200

[Anonymous No.1407819]

>>1407794
You can change resolution of most printers by simply using a smaller nozzle but and go as low as .1mm on even cheap printers but be prepared for clogging repair on daily basis

[Anonymous No.1407820]

>>1407811

Yes, a sturdy frame is a good foundation even if everything else is complete crap. I have no idea about Tevo's quality control, i just look at the design of the machine. If you have doubts, go with the i3 mega. It's mostly based on the most popular Reprap design (prusa i3) so it's most likely to have upgrade parts for it if necessary. A quick search about it gives results of heatbed wires breaking over time, but wires are not hard to replace. Expect problems no matter what you get, really. Not unless its an original Prusa or an Ultimaker or something from a "reputable" brand.

[Anonymous No.1407823]

>>1407820
>>1407819
Thanks, then I'll just get the i3 mega

[Anonymous No.1407827]

>>1407729
>>1407782
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UBfPkwUUFcI

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printer-Aluminium-J-Head-Hotend-E3D-V6-Extruder-for-1-75-0-3mm-Printer-Part/122796088045

[Anonymous No.1407832]

>mom comes in
>"Hey anon I need you to 3D print me something on that thing you have"
>Fucking finally! A chance to show off my modeling talents!
>What do you need?
>"Legs to support a grate for my bunny's pooper. 3x3x10cm blocks, can you do that?"
>Y....yeah.... i can do that mom... ;_;
I could just literally cut 4 pieces of wood from a stick.. fuck me

[Anonymous No.1407839]

>>1407827
>recommends an E3D extruder
>links to the cheapest, bootleggiest E3D clone

[Anonymous No.1407840]

>>1407733
>You sound proud of your purchase and should be
I didn't buy it. I need bed at least 300x300mm. I have Folgertech ft-5 (USA designed, but chink components) and I have done a lot of fixing and tinkering. Which is all interesting and fun, but not when you really need to print something. When I look at all these new printers, they are all basically the same. Only Prusa mk3 got me excited. I almost bought it, but then got to my senses, because it is too small for my needs.

>>1407738
I am not sure if this is a joke. If not, which printer? Post link, or picture. Why is this so hard to do? If that printer is so amazing show it to us, please.

>>1407779
Are you unable to comprehend that different countries have different products in the stores? You are thinking of Scotch blue painters tape. There are also other brands that make painters tape. That might or might not be blue. The colour isn't the magic factor here. It is the texture and/or surface finish/treatment.

[Anonymous No.1407842]

>>1407839
I have several of them and I've never had a single problem in years, but feel free to spend ten times as much on the official E3D extruder.

[Anonymous No.1407844]

>>1407842
Why do poor people always assume that everyone else is also poor?

[Anonymous No.1407845]

>>1407729
>>1407782
Wait, are you buying a new extruder or whole new printer? I guess you just need to replace the hotend (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Geeetech-3D-Printer-Spare-Part-12V-40W-Hotend-Kit-for-MK8-extruder/201745238432?hash=item2ef8f409a0:g:hykAAOSwux5YR3Xs)), but only of the first one worked well for a while and you are willing to replace them at this time interval. If it didn't work from the start, then you have to make some mods to mount e3d or e3d clone.
That tube inside was PTFE tube. You might just replace that, but first you also need to clean all the plastic off.

[Anonymous No.1407846]

>>1407844
I could've bought a $700 prusa, but instead I built a 500x500 printer for the same price. I could've bought such a printer for ~$3000 too, but instead I bought an AC/DC TIG welder and now I'm making custom alu parts with it. Just because you can afford something doesn't mean there isn't a better way to spend that money.

[Anonymous No.1407847]

>>1407844
Why do retards always assume that spending more money on a very simple product will somehow get them a functionally superior product?

[Anonymous No.1407849]

>>1407842

Any particular reason why you've had several of them?

[Anonymous No.1407852]

>>1407849
Just that I use them on multiple printers. There are actually 2 different chink e3d v6 knockoffs, they have different dimensions, one being shorter, but it doesn't really matter which one you get, mounting should be the same.
Also this probably isn't relevant for you, but the one single issue I've had with these is that holes are sometimes not bored accurately, on a cyclops block and on a vulcan hotend I've had oversized holes for mounting screws and the heater cartridge respectively. Both of them are still usable if you fill it with shims. The one I linked is just the standard e3d v6 and I haven't had any such problems on those.

[Anonymous No.1407854]

>>1407790
>Are you genuinely retarded?
>followed by a rant about blue shit and faggotry
I could ask you the same question, because you clearly didn't understand what I was gettijg at with that post.
I don't use painter's tape to begin with, so I'm not buying into any marketing bullshi

>>1407804
Just looks awful glossy, but the dude got better results with plastic tape, so he's already set the bar so low that literally anything will probably help him out.

>>1407840
>Are you unable to comprehend that different countries have different products in the stores?

Fully aware, hence why I asked which shithole country he's in. Might be useful to know if he wants any legitimate help.

[Anonymous No.1407855]

>>1407852

What filaments have you printed with? Have you had the PTFE liner go brown at the hot side?

[Anonymous No.1407858]

>>1407840
Blue painters tape is blue because it is a specific type of formulation that doesn't leave residue on the surface after removal, it is coloured blue so that all people who know they need this type know to just look for "the blue one" instead of reading the packaging.

It should still be sufficient but it will probably leave gooey shit on this dudes bed.

[Anonymous No.1407860]

>>1407858
>doesn't leave residue
All painters tape is like that.
That's the whole point of painters tape.

[Anonymous No.1407861]

>>1407855
PLA, ABS, mostly PETG though.
>PTFE liner go brown
It's been very long since I had to take the hotend off, but I think it was fine then. The hottest I've ran it was ~240C on ABS.

[Anonymous No.1407862]

If my printer is rated for 230C does that mean i can print PET?

[Anonymous No.1407863]

>>1407862
I think PET can be printed on anything with a hotbed, not that I've tried.

[Anonymous No.1407869]

>>1407860
Your reply exposes your inexperience. You can leave blue painters tape on for a whole week and it will still come off clean without shit, you can even leave it outside. If you do this with normal masking tape you spend 2 days cleaning the shite off your customers walls, windows, doors etc.

[Anonymous No.1407870]

>>1407869
That is not true at all.
Painter's tapes are rated based on how long you can leave them on. There are for example 3 day tapes or 7 day tapes which you can leave on for 7 days without residue. And uless you are completely clueless you will print on a glass plate so any tape residue can be easily washed off under a tap

[Anonymous No.1407881]

>>1407730
How do they do that though? Is there like a radioactive isotope in the filament and the printer won't print anything that doesn't tick a geiger counter?

[Anonymous No.1407882]

>>1407881
Similar to inkjets, there's a chip inside the cartidge.

[Anonymous No.1407883]

>>1407882
>inside the cartidge
So what if you drill a hole in the back of the cartridge and just feed chink filament through that?

[Anonymous No.1407885]

>>1407870
>glass plate

Absolutely unnecessary to use glass which if anything just makes heated beds less viable. Why not just use stock beds with blue tape which never leaves shite all over the bed? Or let me guess you're one of the autists using hairspray on a glass bed that you keep breaking.

[Anonymous No.1407886]

>>1407883
They measure how much filament goes through and how much should be left.

[Anonymous No.1407887]

>>1407885
You can use hairspray straight on aluminum and you don't have to dick with any tapes or glass.

[Anonymous No.1407888]

>>1407886
Okay, so let's hook up an Arduino with a transistor to the ground pin on the chip. Every now and then the transistor is triggered so the chip resets and the printer thinks you've just inserted a full cartridge.

[Anonymous No.1407889]

>>1407888
I assume they put in enough protection so that both the printer and the cartridge know the amount left, as well as have encrypted codes for cartridge identification. In any case, just like, buy a normal printer.

[Anonymous No.1407890]

>>1406161
>>Heat bed
>>Apply hairspray
>call firefighters

[Anonymous No.1407891]

>>1407888
It's encrypted, and they have checks in place to prevent this. You can check the 3d printing forums where owners of xyz printers have these exact issues. xyz is smart, they aren't going to go only half jew and give you a way this easy.

[Anonymous No.1407893]

>>1407887
Yeah and they you gotta clean that shit off making it a massive ballache in the long run. Blue tape just peels off and takes 3 seconds to reapply some.

[Anonymous No.1407894]

>>1407890
The flammable part evaporates pretty quickly, especially on a heated bed.

[Anonymous No.1407895]

>>1407885
>never
wrong

I always routinely wipe down my build plate with a bit of acetone.
Gets rid of any residues, even from the cheapest shittiest tapes.

[Anonymous No.1407896]

>>1407893
Not really, I clean the plate like once a year on average, and even then only for the hell of it, not because it needed cleaning. You can just lay down a thin layer of hairspray to renew the surface if needed.

[Anonymous No.1407897]

>>1407888

It would be cheaper and simpler to just stick a RAMPS board in there and connect it to the motors, heaters etc. But that's not the point. The point is that XYZ are scum

[Anonymous No.1407898]

>>1407782
Dude just order an e3d clone from ali and the titan geared extruder to go with it. It'll cost you 20e and you'll be getting good shit.

[Anonymous No.1407901]

>>1407895
What sort of malaysian rapist tape are you buying? Dialls blue tape = absolutely no residue in over 2 years of printing. Rarely needs changing.

[Anonymous No.1407902]

>>1407896
>PissBottles.jpeg

Thats sounds like it will get disgustingly dusty and shitty in under a month.

[Anonymous No.1407903]

>>1407901
Clas Ohlson Blue Tape, it tears every time you remove a print so you need to constantly replace it, and if the bed is heated above seventy degrees it leaves residue.

[Anonymous No.1407904]

>>1407903
Yikes

[Anonymous No.1407905]

>>1407902
Dust does not stick to dry hairspray. You can wipe it off with a dry towel or your hand.

[Anonymous No.1407908]

>>1407854
Fuck off, retarded shill.

[Anonymous No.1407909]

3D printers should be banned. What is stopping a terrorist from printing a knife or a gun and doing 9/11 all over again?

[Anonymous No.1407910]

>>1407858
It's blue because of branding. Literally the only reason.

[Anonymous No.1407913]

>>1407909
You can't just print a knife or a gun without a loicense, so it's pretty safe.

[Anonymous No.1407914]

>>1407779
tesa makes quality tape

[Anonymous No.1407915]

How do i color pla? is ordinary can spray good enough?

[Anonymous No.1407918]

>>1407910
It's blue because if it's not all the downs syndrome painters can't find the tape they need and end up pissing on the floor in the shop.

[Anonymous No.1407920]

>>1407915
acrylic paints and spray paints work well. Always use a primer/undercoat.

[Anonymous No.1407921]

>>1407920
what is a primer? i never painted anything in my life

[Anonymous No.1407923]

What happens if I set the current for a stepper too low? Too little torque?

[Anonymous No.1407924]

>>1407923
Too little torque or won't move at all.

[Anonymous No.1407926]

>>1407924
So if it's enough to easily move the hotend, is there any advantage in increasing the current?
It's set at 1A but my steppers and drivers are rated for more.

[Anonymous No.1407928]

>>1407921
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Primer_(paint)

[Anonymous No.1407929]

>>1407926
They might skip steps under quick acceleration; basically you either need to tweak your acceleration so that it never makes too quick movements, or give the motor more amps. If you don't get any skipped steps at max acceleration as it is, you can leave it be.

[Anonymous No.1407930]

>>1407928
>trusting wikiliberalcuckpedoa

[Anonymous No.1407931]

>>1407930
On politics, of course not. But only Swedes politicise fucking paint.

[Anonymous No.1407932]

>>1407918
>The reason behind the color is to distinguish ScotchBlue™ Painter’s Tape from the tapes of other businesses.

[Anonymous No.1407942]

>>1407918
Well it's not working anyway because it caused me to buy the expensive plastic blue painters tape instead. Luckily I found out that with purple glue stick, any tape works done

[Anonymous No.1407951]

is blender3d a good cad to make models to 3d print?

[Anonymous No.1407954]

>>1407951
Blender is complicated as fuck but it's good if you want to make figurines or something.

Fusion 360 is the gold standard for cad software and free for hobbyists.

Tinkercad is good for babby's first cad program.

[Anonymous No.1407964]

About halfway done putting my A8 together - at the point where I start the wiring. Gotta pick up some more spade connectors so I can wire up the power switches, Mosfets and new power supply.

I'm still going back and forth between putting a Mosfet on the hot end, I've heard it results in less accurate Temps but I plan on slapping on a V6 clone sitting in my box full of upgrades and printing PETG soon so I'll be running hotter Temps. Definitely going to solder the hotbed connectors though.

[Anonymous No.1407967]

>>1407954
>Fusion 360 is the gold standard for cad software
You mean SolidWorks.

[Anonymous No.1407976]

>>1407951
As a game dev going into 3d printing I already know blender and love it, but if you only want to model for 3d printing i recommend something easier to learn

[Anonymous No.1407977]

>>1407951
Solidworks is probably the best 3D modeling software.

[Anonymous No.1407984]

>>1407951

I'm a 3D artist that uses Blender all the time and i have to say that if you want to print functional parts and have no modelling experience, better go for something like Fusion 360. Software like F360 is more suited for this because you just draw your circles and other shapes, then extrude and Boolean them together and don't worry about anything else.

In Blender you edit the geometry on a much lower level, basically individual polygons. Because of this, things like how many points your circle is made of matter a whole lot more. It does result in cleaner topology that the slicer can interpret better, but it takes a lot more time to do even if you're skilled at it.

For figurines it's the opposite situation - Blender has a Sculpt Mode that lets you easily sculpt things out of "clay", whereas with CAD this stuff is impossible.

[Anonymous No.1407985]

>>1407932
I already told you I use Dialls brand blue tape, there is also 3M, frogtape, etc. etc.

Stop getting salty just because you're using your fathers cum since you're too poor/retarded/bad.

[Anonymous No.1407986]

>>1407967
Is Solidworks free for hobby use?

[Anonymous No.1407989]

>>1407986
Of course not, but among professionals it is by far the most widely used. It's the gold standard. Fusion 360 is a very good hobby suite, but it isn't the gold standard because the gold standard is dictated by the industry.

[Anonymous No.1407991]

>>1407986
Just pirate it you serf

[Anonymous No.1407992]

>>1407984
Blender is a modelling software, CAD softwares are, well, CAD softwares. Blender is designed to do things like video game models or anatomic models, CAD is designed to do engineering shit. If you want to print a Warhammer figurine, Blender is almost always going to be your best bet. The exception is stuff like tanks, which can actually be very reasonably modelled in CAD suites because they rely more on geometric shapes than organic ones. The real treasure of CAD softwares is that they let you put parts together, see how they fit and work. It's great for engineering, say, a hinged camera mount for your drones.

[Anonymous No.1408010]

Pretty happy with how well I've dialled in my 0.6mm nozzle on this shitty almost stock Anet A8. I feel this 0.3mm layer height is optimal for most common things rather than the 0.2mm layer height that seems to get spammed a lot.

[Anonymous No.1408017]

If i have an ac blowing hot air outside will that help with the ventilation of printing abs? also how toxic is abs? is it much worse than pla? im trying abs for the first time and ive only got a small bedroom so i dont wanna get some turboaids from printing abs in my room overnight while i sleep

[Anonymous No.1408024]

>>1408017
ABS isn't toxic so much as it's simply very stinky. You're not going to get sick from having the printer in your bedroom, but you may feel sickened by the smell.

[Anonymous No.1408029]

>>1407977
Not even close. It's best only for 3d printer modeling. But the industry standard for 3D modeling is Maya 3D

[Anonymous No.1408031]

>>1408029
>It's best only for 3D printer modeling
>Maya 3D is the industry standard

[Anonymous No.1408034]

>>1407782
>What's the "it just works" of 3d printers?
Used Ultimaker 2+

[Anonymous No.1408042]

>>1408029
Maya isn't a CAD software, it's a modelling software. I agree that Maya is the industry standard when it comes to modelling software, but our discussion was explicitly about CAD, and Maya is absolutely shit at doing CAD.

You're confusing the computer game/movie SFX industries with the "engineer" industries.

[Anonymous No.1408052]

If a magnet can lift 1kg and i put two of them together does it mean i need 2kg force to pull them apart?

[Anonymous No.1408053]

>>1408052
Depending on how you attach them to each other you'll need either two kg or no kg.

[Anonymous No.1408055]

>>1408053
Well I am making a megnetic phone holder and will have one on my phone and one in the holder. But since the magnets are rated at 11.5kg i worry that it will be too hard to pull of the holder if two of them will add to 23KG

[Anonymous No.1408059]

>>1408055
Don't do that, putting a permanent magnet on your phone will mess up your GPS. Instead put one magnet in the holder, and a simple metal plate on your phone, you can buy metal plates with super glue already on them on ebay for a few cents.

[Anonymous No.1408064]

>>1408042

Maya isn't even "THE industry standard" in the 3d modelling field, 3dsmax has the largest user base there. Maya is popular for animation, but Max is usually used for everything else, including the less interesting stuff like archviz.

[Anonymous No.1408066]

>>1408059
The plate will probably become magnetized soon.
Luckily GPS doesn't rely on magnetism it uses satellites.

[Anonymous No.1408067]

>>1408066
the compas will get fucked tho

[Anonymous No.1408072]

>>1408055
Do not under any circumstance put fucking permanent strong magnet near or on your phone. Nearly every component in your phone will die because of it.

[Anonymous No.1408073]

>>1408072
The only reason why people think magnets are bad for computers is because they damage HDDs if your computer or mobile has no HDD in it then it doesn't give a shit about magnets

[Anonymous No.1408074]

>>1408073
Unless the magnet is moving around.

[Anonymous No.1408076]

>>1408066
Your phone uses a compass to assist the GPS. Anyway, the plate won't become magnetised just by being attached to a magnet every now and then.

[Anonymous No.1408077]

>Bought a box of Chinese hex m3, m4 and m5 nuts and bolts off ebay
>They strip faster than your mother on a Friday night

[Anonymous No.1408078]

>>1408076
Would you stake your life on that claim?

[Anonymous No.1408079]

>>1408077
Are you autistic? You have a 3D printer and you buy screws? Just print them.

[Anonymous No.1408082]

>>1408073
>hurr durr no hdd

go ahead and plaster your phone in neodymium magnets.

[Anonymous No.1408084]

>>1408010
Good stuff, man. I have an A8 myself, but it's kind of buried behind Gunpla right now. I was in the process of getting it dialed in, but haven't fine tuned it at all. A few of my prints turned out great, and a few others (particularly one Mechwarrior print) would just start printing the lower layers way above the print bed itself. I leveled the bed over and over again, and even set the print lower in Cura, but had the same problem. Do you have any suggestions?

[Anonymous No.1408085]

>>1407808
The monoprice maker select v2 does come with a heated bed. Pretty sure the v1 dies too. Maybe you're thinking of the maker select mini? Idk if that has a heated bed or not.

[Anonymous No.1408087]

>>1408084
I stopped trying with all the software levelling and sensors and shit, just went back to manual bed levelling, tightened up my belts, and fucked around in Cura for a long time fine tuning all the settings. Currently managing to print at 40mm/s (inner wall, infill and supports faster). It's not lightning speed and I'm still seeing a little bit of blobbing in between layers but hoping to further fix that with retraction settings.

[Anonymous No.1408090]

Is there any way to apply scale in simplify 3d?

Let's say i change the scale to 80% and i want to apply it, which means the 80% will now become 100% (but the object will remain the current smaller size) if you get what i mean

[Anonymous No.1408098]

>>1407942
>Luckily I found out that with purple glue stick, any tape works

At that point, why even use tape?

[Anonymous No.1408131]

>>1408085

You're right, i was thinking about the mini. It appears the v2 is one of those Wanhao i3's instead. Still i think the Anycubic is a better reccomendation as it's more neatly integrated in the base instead of having a control unit flopping about.

[Anonymous No.1408155]

>>1408098
Sounds like he's reading a lot but not understanding a lot.
Blue tape OR glue stick OR hair spray, not a combination.

[Anonymous No.1408160]

>>1407954
who /openscad/ here

[Anonymous No.1408164]

What other printers can use Formlabs resins? Is there any specific qualifier that it needs to have or are the resins interchangeable between printers? All I know is that some resins are made for use with specific wavelengths and won't cure with others, but I don't know if that's a real concern or if most printers use the same wavelength.

[Anonymous No.1408174]

>>1408160
I like programming, I like CADing, I don't think I would like the two together.

[Anonymous No.1408175]

>>1408160
I have downs syndrome so I can't be bothered wasting my extra chromosome learning how to use it.

[Anonymous No.1408280]

>>1407888
It's an EEPROM, buddy. But you can use an Arduino to reset the counter anyway.

[Anonymous No.1408281]

>>1407541
No, they don't have Prusa's i3 function where it can detect how skewed the axes are by probing some magnets on the build platform

[Anonymous No.1408282]

>>1405973
Does anyone have a link to op's model?

[Anonymous No.1408285]

R8 my calibration rectangle

Anet A8 freshly built and first print - only upgraded psu, mosfet for the bed, and bed leveling thumbscrews for easier bed adjustment. Oh, and upgraded belts and toothed pulleys, but no belt tensioners so they don't mean much yet.

Looks like tomorrow will be calibration day.

[Anonymous No.1408303]

>>1407888
Someone did exactly that. When I first started looking at a printer I looked at a xyz davinci. It was the cheapest locally. Cheap enough that I decided to reasearch why. Came up with the chipped filament, the work around, and some info saying they were going to stop chipping subsequent printers. Working around an inherently and purposefully broken design was not the kind of mods I wanted to get into. Reprap based printers have a significant advantage in their open nature.

[Anonymous No.1408390]

>>1408303
Not exactly that, but used an arduino.

[Anonymous No.1408424]

Is TPU the best choice for a pocket pussy print?

[Anonymous No.1408426]

>>1408303
Not to mention that almost every firmware update xyz releases purposely breaks any new hacking method someone came up with
there is also no way they will disable the chipping, dont be so naive. Do you really think they will put so much effort and bugfixes out to prevent filament hacking just to disable it later? Their jew filament scheme is making them tons of dough.
Also what kind of idiot wants to became a computer hacker just so he can put fillament in his printer?

[Anonymous No.1408429]

Spitballing here. Could you use a double nozzle 3d printer that prints one head with a silicon analog filament and another head that extrudes molten copper from a reel. You could use this to 3d print circuit boards, am I crazy or could something like this work?

[Anonymous No.1408437]

>>1408429
It's far, far easier to make a CNC mill that mills your boards. For 3D printed circuits, I've seen people experiment with conductive plastic mixes, no idea if it's commercially available though.

[Anonymous No.1408443]

Is there any reason you can't extrude steel? I mean if your bed and extruder head is something that can withstand higher temps than molten steel (titanium or something) and you can cool it fast enough, the heat of it initially being placed should weld it to the previous layer. I assume this has been explored since everyone uses laser sintering but I would like to know what the real problem is.

[Anonymous No.1408444]

>>1408443
Steel has a LOT of things going on when it's melted or cooling down. It's technically possible but it's such a pain in the ass that very few (if any) companies/individuals have done it so far. I assume there's also the issue with impurities making their way into the steel and the conditions needed to print/sinter it.

Anyone else feel free to chime in, that's about all I remember at the moment.

[Anonymous No.1408450]

>>1408285
What the fuck did you do to get the Z axis so fucked?

[Anonymous No.1408456]

Would a printer get better results in 0g (freefall) as opposed to earth gravity?

[Anonymous No.1408463]

>>1406571
what do you mean by fps?
Also how do you market your product? Is it through your own website or through a specialised seller website like Ebay and Amazon?

[Anonymous No.1408464]

>>1408456
Bridging and overhangs might be easier but Im failing to see any other benefits. Gravity is already a pretty minor factor outside of extreme overhangs and bridges (which are both solved by better cooling).

[Anonymous No.1408466]

>>1408443
Pretty sure extrduing steel ontop of cold steel would result in very poor "welding".

[Anonymous No.1408467]

>>1408463
not them but I assume fps is feet per second, muzzle velocity of the darts

[Anonymous No.1408468]

>>1408463
>fps
feet per second

[Anonymous No.1408469]

>>1408467
ahh i see, I'm not murican and the only fps i've ever heard of is frame per second

[Anonymous No.1408493]

>>1408466
poor to none; oxygen is your enemy, ask any blacksmith or welder. Maybe if the build chamber replaced the air with some sort of inert gas. At that point, why aren't you just milling a slab of steel, it'd be cheaper.

[Anonymous No.1408497]

>>1408282
Degenerate pig.

[Anonymous No.1408504]

How do i find out if an overhang needs a support or not?

[Anonymous No.1408509]

>>1408463
>what do you mean by fps?
Muzzle velocity is a more practical standard for comparing performance of these since average range is so variable. The darts themselves have a variety in weight. At 200+fps you're easily shooting 100 feet or further.
>Also how do you market your product? Is it through your own website or through a specialised seller website like Ebay and Amazon?
Initially just ((reddit)) then youtube reviews. But I'm unexpectedly getting 30% of my sales just through direct Etsy traffic (search or related product links). I don't have any demand issues so I have no reason to pursue any further marketing.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/CaptainSlug

[Anonymous No.1408510]

>>1408424
TPU has a durometer of 80 Shore D. It's only slightly softer than a car tire.

[Anonymous No.1408511]

>>1408509
The script you gave me for the simplify 3d worked, but i noticed that when it stops printing, it doesn't turn off the fillament cooling motors
How would i implement it here?
M84 ;steppers off
G90
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
M84 ; disable motors

[Anonymous No.1408514]

>>1408443
>Is there any reason you can't extrude steel?
3d printers that work for bonding metals are one of three types.

1. Binder Jet. Though these produce a porous part that is slightly held together by glue and a different metal is then wicked into that green part to make it fully dense. Alternatively they can be plain sintered in an autoclave, but this results in considerable part shrinkage which has to be accounted for when printing the green part.

2. Direct Metal Laser Sintering. Powder in a build box sintered together by laser. The powder is expensive, the lasers are expensive, the resulting parts have a very rough surface akin to sandpaper.

3. Feed Deposition. These are basically either wire-feed CNC MIG welders, or wire-feed with an external heat source such as laser or e-beam.

[Anonymous No.1408520]

>>1408511
M106 S0 ; turn off the fan completely

[Anonymous No.1408522]

>>1408520
thanks

[Anonymous No.1408525]

>>1408511
You don't really wanna turn that off.

[Anonymous No.1408529]

>>1408525
I am not talking about the extruder fan, but the fans that cool the fillament as it comes out, since there is no coming out, there is no point blowing air into thin air

[Anonymous No.1408530]

>>1408509
>Initially just ((reddit)) then youtube reviews. But I'm unexpectedly getting 30% of my sales just through direct Etsy traffic
I see, Im just planning to sell some 3d printed figurines or model kit, I guess quite a lot of creators really do use Etsy.

[Anonymous No.1408532]

Okay so i am shit at math, if you are supposed to print model 1 at 102% scale and model 2 at 100% scale so they fit together, will that also work if i print 1 at 52% and 2 at 50%?

[Anonymous No.1408533]

>>1408532
51%-50%

[Anonymous No.1408534]

If i want to print for example 3 figurines at the same time, how far on the build plate should i place them from each other to prevent that nasty stringing?

[Anonymous No.1408535]

>>1408534
>prevent that nasty stringing
Fix your retraction settings. Or just use a heat gun or hair dryer to get rid of the strings after printing.

[Anonymous No.1408543]

>>1408535
>hair dryer
i don't have a heat gun but it seems to me that a hair drier won't be able to get hot enough for that

[Anonymous No.1408559]

Shit i never know when to use supports.
Does this need supports?
I thought than any overhang needed support but apparently that is not true

[Anonymous No.1408562]

>>1408559
That will definitely need supports for the overhanging screw thing in the back. In general if there are any overhangs shallower than 50 degrees or so, you probably want supports. If you open it up in Cura and there's a bunch of red on the bottom, either re-orient the part or use supports.

[Anonymous No.1408578]

>>1408514
you forgot indirect metal laser sintering. Its like 1. but the green part is made with laser sintering instead.
As well as laser cladding which can be wire fed or spray powder.

[Anonymous No.1408586]

Fuck why is there this insanely loud fan inside of the printer? It's not like i'm playng Crysis on it, the printing doesn't even make the mobo warm

[Anonymous No.1408591]

>>1408586
Your stepper drivers can get hot since they have to switch relatively high currents.

[Anonymous No.1408595]

>>1408591
steppers are outside of the printer, this is a fan in the printer case

[Anonymous No.1408597]

>>1408595
I'm not talking about the stepper motors.

[Anonymous No.1408600]

>>1408597
but the air it blows outside is cold so it's not heating up i think i will remove it and duckttape a 120mm computer fan that blows air in instead

[Anonymous No.1408602]

>>1407504
Sounds like your filament diameter is set to 3 instead of 1.75

[Anonymous No.1408604]

>>1408562
I added them, so we will see.
How about this? Can it print it without supports?

[Anonymous No.1408606]

>>1408604
Hard to tell just from the image, but it looks like it would probably be okay. I would start it without supports and keep a close eye on it and if it looks like it's not going to work, just abort and restart with supports.

[Anonymous No.1408613]

If i use glue i have to replace tape after every single print, but if i don't use it i get warping or sliding
fuck

[Anonymous No.1408614]

>>1408504
Print it without and then decide. If the overhang is really high up in the print just start 10 layers below by adjusting the z positioning in your slicer.

[Anonymous No.1408616]

>>1408532
Divide small number by bigger number, times 100

[Anonymous No.1408618]

>>1408613
It's tape OR glue, or buildtak or PEI, or just a heated glass bed. Theoretically you can print right on heated glass without issues but I'll know for sure when I try tonight. Wanted to solder my heatbed connections on my a8 first before I laid down the thermal pad and borosilicate plate.

Blue tape works well on the aluminum heatbed but I don't like using consumables if I don't have to.

I'm now realizing most of the prints I did on the Makerbot Replicator at work I can't even use because the dimensions are all off...

Check out my ghetto brim before I figured out how to get Simplify3D to work with the 5th gen.

[Anonymous No.1408619]

>>1408618
>you can print right on heated glass without issues
no... i can't ;_;

[Anonymous No.1408653]

>leave big cavities in your print
>melt old failed prints
>pour the molten plastic into cavities while the print is cooled

could this work?

[Anonymous No.1408661]

>>1408653
Provided you can heat everything to the right temperature, yes.

[Anonymous No.1408663]

Alright, i found a good way to do the whole disk. 5 different parts and bevels between them so that they kind of lock together. Works alright.

[Anonymous No.1408671]

Has anyone been printing with PETG? One of my upcoming projects as I learn more fusion 360 is making some Led diffusers for my tailights, basically replacing the entire center red ring since it pops out once you remove the clear plastic shell with a heat gun. I have a V6 clone sitting ready to go bowden, will I have issues printing with PETG once I go bowden?

[Anonymous No.1408673]

>>1408671
As long as the throat can handle that 250C extrusion temp bowden ought to be fine, so you probably required a metal throat.

[Anonymous No.1408676]

>>1408673
I print PETG at like 210C

[Anonymous No.1408678]

>>1408676
What, for real? From googling around the lowest suggested temperature seems to be 235C

[Anonymous No.1408682]

>>1406690
that thing is a spool holder? im just a passerby so have no knowledge of 3d printing. if it was designed to do that how did it break the first time?

[Anonymous No.1408686]

PET is used to make soda bottles, so does that mean PETG is food-safe? I want to print cool cups.

[Anonymous No.1408689]

>>1408682
The horizontal stick is screwed into the base and i was stupid and screwed it too hard and it damaged the layer adhesion, the second one i printed i was careful with and it works fine

[Anonymous No.1408692]

>>1408682
It's one of the worst designs of spool holder I've ever seen, that's how it broke.

[Anonymous No.1408696]

>>1408678
Mine had that range on it too, but it prints just fine at 210. I'd think my temp sensor is off by those 25C, but then PLA prints normally at 190-195C.
>>1408686
Nothing you 3D print is food safe because of all the cracks and holes that form in the surface that you can never clean properly. But the plastic in itself, yes. Also, PETG is used to make soda bottles, and PET is a completely different plastic.

[Anonymous No.1408706]

Has anyone here used stepper smoothers? Those 4-8 diode loops that get rid of the stripes on curved faces.
I just mounted two today, and they got crazy hot, 100C surface within a few minutes. This was at just 1.5A fed through them, with the drivers getting 24V. They're also pretty hefty diodes (compared to other chink shit smoothers that I've seen).

[Anonymous No.1408719]

>>1407319
Yeah, but I bet many chinkshit printers don't have thermal runaway protection on by default. I know creality stuff doesn't.

[Anonymous No.1408722]

>>1408719
it's 10 lines of code. you can write them yourself.

[Anonymous No.1408726]

>>1408719
Don't most chink printers use some RAMPS derived shit running Marlin?
Mine does.

[Anonymous No.1408744]

>>1408663
Looks pretty cool! Good job.

[Anonymous No.1408746]

>>1408696
Also brass nozzles contain lead.

[Anonymous No.1408847]

I'll take my award for worst soldering job ever now. Zip tied the cable bunch to the bed so the stress wasn't on the solder joints.

At least the bed slides without the connector hitting the frame now. Heats up and everything so I'm gucci. Also installed a thermal pad right on the bed and then borosilicate on top. Heats up pretty well and quite fast with the thermal pad. Off to install Marlin, and then figure out how to calibrate steps per mm. My Z axis is super squished so something's not right.

[Anonymous No.1408859]

Does anyone have experience with these metal pieces for the prusa i3? I wanted to use these to replace the printed parts on my x-axis in hopes that they will be sturdier.

[Anonymous No.1408894]

>>1408859
Fools errand.

[Anonymous No.1408895]

>>1408847
eww what the fuck, did you burn that black ones insulation away as well?

[Anonymous No.1408909]

>>1408895
Yeah... I'll redo it once I get the damn thing working, ran into a kink flashing marlin so that's tomorrow's task

[Anonymous No.1408978]

>>1408847
The large aluminium plate acts as heat sink, cooling the pads quicker than your soldering iron can heat them up.

You can try soldering it while heating the underside with a hot plate.

[Anonymous No.1408980]

>>1408859
Pointless desu. Might look nicer though.

[Anonymous No.1408991]

So it's been a while since it released, any thoughts on the Peopoly Moai? I've been wanting to get an SLA printer and this seems like a nice compromise between the Form 2 and Wanhao D7. Apparently it's compatible with a lot of resins as well.

[Anonymous No.1408992]

>>1408663
if anything it looks cool

[Anonymous No.1408996]

>>1408706
just guessing here:
did you use the right type?

[Anonymous No.1408999]

Have 370 bones. whats the best printr i can get with this moolah.

[Anonymous No.1409001]

>>1408847
i've seen chinese products with better factory soldering

[Anonymous No.1409004]

>>1408847

That's a fine firehazard there, good job. Try with a more beefy soldering iron next time.

[Anonymous No.1409038]

>>1409001
People rag on china for soldering but honestly all my aliexpress shit looks pretty dope 99% of the time.

[Anonymous No.1409042]

>>1408996
I'm not aware of multiple types of smoothers existing as far as design goes. The only differences I've seen were the amount and the size of the diodes on the board.

[Anonymous No.1409058]

>>1408991
Heard a lot good stuff about it (multiple reviews, second hand comment about people using it at their work), but i dont know how it compares to others. Only problem that i see with it, its quite expensive and at the moment its hard to tell what next year looks like when it comes to such printers, it can easily happen that you get a 30-50% cheaper printer in a year that is better and has more features, FDM is long past that point.

[Anonymous No.1409066]

>>1409042
nvm, misread your post
disregard

[Anonymous No.1409131]

I have some stuff I want to print for my car/outside. Can PETG really handle heat and the elements like ABS?

[Anonymous No.1409133]

>>1408999
Ender 3 can be had for @ $200ish; that leaves you money for filament & expendables (like nozzles).

[Anonymous No.1409137]

>>1409131
ABS can't handle the elements, but PETG is pretty decent.

[Anonymous No.1409151]

>>1405973
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=33013

>$599.99
y tho

[Anonymous No.1409155]

>>1409151
Why is one of the bed springs brass and the others chinesium?

[Anonymous No.1409160]

Got a retarded question.

I want to get some shit printed, but don't have access to a printer. What 3D printing services would you guys recommend?

[Anonymous No.1409172]

>>1408847
Holy fucking shit man. When I did mine I used a soldering gun instead of my normal pen, like the ones plumbers use for pipes. 400W instead of 20W did the trick.

[Anonymous No.1409175]

>>1409038
Yeah, China generally does a good job with anything that uses SMD. That's because those are placed on the board by a machine, and then simply put into an oven for the actual soldering. Whenever the chinks need to do through-hole or attach cables directly to a board, it's a mess.

[Anonymous No.1409176]

>>1409137
What? ABS handles the environment just fine, that's why it's one of the most common industrial plastics.
>>1409155
Maybe that one is just a bushing and the others are adjustible? On a platform like that only three of the screws are actually necessary, all that the fourth being adjustible gives you is the ability to adjust Z sensor height in a second location.

[Anonymous No.1409178]

>>1409176
ABS degrades from UV radiation. ABS is not used in ourdoor equipment unless you're buying from China.

[Anonymous No.1409179]

Well, tried flashing marlin on my A8 last night but apparently the V1-5 board ships with a corrupted bootloader, so now I have to buy a fucking arduino uno so I can flash the bootloader or something. Printer is currently useless and just has 2 rows of boxes on the LCD when you turn it on. Why do you need a separate board just to flash the firmware, this is the most retarded shit ever.

I don't think any local stores would carry an arduino, am I really going to have to wait several days to have one shipped? Looks like Amazon only carries Chinese knockoffs and I don't want to take the risk with one of those.

[Anonymous No.1409182]

>>1409179
You can flash it with a Pi if you have one.

[Anonymous No.1409186]

>>1409179
Just out of curiosity, is the 1.5 board labeled 1.5? I looked around to see how much a spare would cost but everyone seems to be showing pics of the 1.0 board.

[Anonymous No.1409195]

>>1408282
http://3dmag.org/en/market/item/1084/

[Anonymous No.1409199]

>>1409179
That is why i don't flash firmwares.
If it works don't fix it autismo.

[Anonymous No.1409206]

I want to 3d print components of a model on sprues, like Plamo, Revell etc instead of complete model thinking it would improve quality, stability and save time.
What do you think about this idea?

[Anonymous No.1409208]

>>1409151
They are just painted springs.

[Anonymous No.1409209]

>>1409206
It's been done before but it's not a terribly efficient use of plastic. You'd be better off using a skirt to anchor the parts, and I'm not sure how sprues would "improve quality" or save time (since you have to print the part AND the sprue).

[Anonymous No.1409211]

>>1409206
Why? Sprues are just for injecting the plastic into the molds

[Anonymous No.1409212]

>>1409199
You're a maroon. Chinkshit printers commonly ship with the safeties disabled, reflashing the firmware with them on should be step 0.

[Anonymous No.1409216]

>>1409212
ok enjoy your printer that can't print

[Anonymous No.1409221]

>>1409216
Is bricking your board while reflashing a common problem among the pesantry all of a sudden? >>1409179 is the first time I've heard of one needing anything other than a second or third attempt.

[Anonymous No.1409222]

>>1409182
No pi, just ordered a arduino kit off Amazon with good reviews. Even with prime it's 2 days downtime =/

I'll eventually grab one for octoprint though, just have enough other upgrades to do before that though.

>>1409186
It has V1-5 on the top, I'll take a picture when I get home. Why do you want a spare? I feel like if I ever got another board I would just splurge for a 32bit one.

>>1409199
The A8 sorta needs Marlin for thermal runaway protection, I want to be able to trust my printer enough to leave it alone which is why I used proper connectors when wiring, added a Mosfet for the bed, and upgraded the Psu.

I suppose I can add frame braces and solder the bed again so it doesn't look like a blind man did it.

Pic related, how I feel

[Anonymous No.1409239]

>>1409160
Don't use Shapejews whatever you do.

[Anonymous No.1409241]

>>1409175
I know wave soldering isnt hard but Ive had components with hand soldered components (lead wires for peeipherals, large through hole components). I feel like the only way you get shite is when you go for the most generic, low priced supplier rather than 1 step up when you spend 10 more pennies for a Ying instead of a Yang.

Just my two cents.

[Anonymous No.1409242]

>>1409239
Why not? Their prices are cheaper than other places and shipping's a flat fee. I haven't had a bad experience with them yet.

[Anonymous No.1409243]

>>1409179
Turn it off for 5 minutes then try again. Sometimes the LED display doesnt play well with Marlin.

[Anonymous No.1409244]

>>1409160
buy a kit for $200
even the poorest of pajeets can afford that if doesn't eat kebab for a week

[Anonymous No.1409247]

>>1409206
This is some very high level autism. The point of 3d printing is that instead of sanding away sprue connections you sand away the entire surface because of layer lines.

[Anonymous No.1409288]

>>1409160
>What 3D printing services would you guys recommend?
3dhubs is basically dead. They screwed over all of their competent printers and fucked up their API. So unless you have prior orders through hubs you know and trust it's a huge gamble as to whether or not you'll get parts worth spending money on.

Shapeways is really expensive, but you will get a good part.

[Anonymous No.1409325]

>>1409179
are you in the US?
microcenter has arduinos iirc

[Anonymous No.1409327]

>>1409221
I may be talking out of my ass, but wasn't there always an issue with dodgy FTDI chips?

[Anonymous No.1409328]

>>1409222
how do you flash?
if it's by SD card, remove the card and/or flash file and see if the printer starts

[Anonymous No.1409329]

>>1409221
According to some reddit post it's because the V1-5 board ships with a corrupt bootloader or something and doesn't take flashing without burning the bootloader with an arduino. I guess that means it's a relatively new problem then.

>>1409328
Over USB

[Anonymous No.1409332]

>>1409327
Not on Arduino Mega based boards.
They use another AVR for the USB-Serial interface, not an FTDI chip.

[Anonymous No.1409352]

>>1409179
What you need to do is buy an "USB ASP", plug it into the board, open up the Arduino IDE, install the board configuration for whatever chip you have on the printer (Probably an ATMEGA2560, which comes preinstalled), then in the tools menu select the "USB ASP" programmer and click burn bootloader.

[Anonymous No.1409365]

>>1409352
I decided to just get a decently rated arduino uno kit off Amazon, comes with some wires, LEDs, resistors and stuff. I heard the those programmers are sketchy - plus I have an arduino to play with when my printer actually starts printing.

In the mean time I gotta find out where I can get some 6mm threaded rod locally in burgerland. Using it for a y frame brace to take tension off the acrylic frame.

[Anonymous No.1409416]

Should I be able to lift my gantry on my A8 in the Z axis fairly easily? I've tried and haven't had any success and ended up just manually turning the Z rods to move it.

Also I noticed when putting it together that there is slight play between the brass threaded nut and the lead screw on one side, the other side threads with gravity but there is no play. It isn't noticeable now that both sides are connected by the gantry rods and there isn't play.

Should I still be concerned?

[Anonymous No.1409452]

>>1409416
I take that back, I am still able to wiggle the lead screw around in the brass nut on one side, giving it quite a bit more movement.

Technically does it even matter if the smooth rods are the ones guiding the actual movements anyway?

[Anonymous No.1409456]

>>1409452
The smooth rods provide lateral stability and should be as square and stable as possible to prevent z wobble and ghosting

[Anonymous No.1409460]

>>1409456
If I can see the top of my z-screw slowly move back and forth as my Z raises and lowers, is that bad? Ender 3, that is

[Anonymous No.1409476]

>>1408426
I guess it wasn't completely clear that I decided not buy their printer because of that anti-feature. Just sharing my experience and what I knew about it so other anons can be more informed.

[Anonymous No.1409478]

>>1409460
That's expected for Prusa clones, the stability of the lateral movement should not be disturbed by the vertical movement, though there are prints that decouple the two much better then the stock design.

[Anonymous No.1409496]

>>1409460
The z rod isn't a guide rod dipstick, that is what the rail is for. you do NOT want the z rod to be fixated otherwise it will ruin your prints

[Anonymous No.1409509]

Help pls bros. Got my Anet A8 a few days ago, first print was a ducted fan which went really well, I am now trying to print this belt tensioner but it keeps fucking it up, I think some of the problem is adhesion so I'm going to up the bed temp but also I noticed it stars extruding before the print begins and it fucking spooges it all over the bed where the print is going, how the fuck do I stop this?

[Anonymous No.1409554]

>>1409509
there will usually always ooz a bit of plastic out when heating the hotend, but is your printer activly pushing filiment tru?
bed adhesion is and will always be one of the biggest problems :^)

check your slicer settings and try if u can see a preview with moving paths, it might be in the settings somewhere if its wrong there aswell,

[Anonymous No.1409561]

>>1409509
Why the fuck didnt you get a cr-10?

[Anonymous No.1409565]

>>1409509
Also: blue painters masking tape, heat not even really necessary, make sure your nozzle is close enough, as 2 skirts 10mm away from print to prime the nozzle for printing.

[Anonymous No.1409567]

>>1409365
The USB programmers are not sketchy they are the actual specific tool for this actual specific exact job.

[Anonymous No.1409568]

>>1409567
The 2$ chink ones are.
They're clones of some hobby project, running outdated firmware.

[Anonymous No.1409573]

>>1409561
The CR-10 is literally 3x the price of an A8 my dude

[Anonymous No.1409642]

>>1409568
Even the proper ones only cost like £12 though and it beats fucking around with hookup wires and breadboards.

>>1409573
Wait ... how cheap are A8's these days? I thought CR-10 was only a little bit more expensive.

[Anonymous No.1409652]

>>1409642
If you get an USBAsp, original or not, you will still need to fuck around with jumper wires since it only has a 10 pin header and Mega boards use an 6 pin ICSP header.

>£12
An Arduino Uno, or even a Pi Zero costs less, can bitbang the AVR just fine (doesn't even require external components, you just need to connect 6 measly wires) and can be used for other shit afterwards.
They guy needs to flash an AVR once in his life. Why bother with a dedicated programmer?

[Anonymous No.1409671]

>>1409652
>10 pin header

All reputable USB programmers have a 6 and a 10 plug.

>arduino uno costs less

Yeah but anon bought some poncey kit from amazon which is probably the same cost if not more than an AVR USB programmer from a non-chinked source.

I agree you can get a bag of jumpers and an uno for £3-4 delivered from Aliexpress, but then why cry about chinked firmware when you're buying an uno clone?

[Anonymous No.1409673]

>>1409642
I bought mine for $145 shipped from gearbest, even when you tack on a new PSU and a Mosfet for the bed which are basically mandatory it's still a sub $200 printer. I really like it because there are tons and tons of upgrades you can do to turn it into a machine rivaling >$1000 printers for a fraction of the cost.

>>1409652
Basically this, I was just going to get the programmer but then I realized I'd have to jump the wires anyway because the board is 6 pin. For like 6 bucks more I can have a full arduino and a bunch of accessories to play with after I fix my printer. Total cost was like $19 with free shipping.

[Anonymous No.1409680]

>>1409671
>All reputable USB programmers have a 6 and a 10 plug.
Then the USBAsp you mentioned isn't a reputable programmer.
Are you confusing ASP with ISP?

[Anonymous No.1409687]

>>1409652
>you will still need to fuck around with jumper wires since it only has a 10 pin header and Mega boards use an 6 pin ICSP header.
Nope.bmp.jpg.exe.tiff.doc

On the other hand you can't program the Atmega2560 with it, only flash the bootloader.

[Anonymous No.1409688]

>>1409327
>but wasn't there always an issue with dodgy FTDI chips?
There was an issue with fake FT232RL chips, which haven't been used on knock off arduinos since... Since 6 or so years? I don't remember. The chinese just started using an USB-Serial chip made by WCH (CH340g) or the Atmega with USB interface.

[Anonymous No.1409690]

>>1409688
Wasn't the issue that FTDI broke those chips on purpose with a driver update?

[Anonymous No.1409693]

>>1409687
That's a just a chink clone bundled with an adapter.
The official one doesn't come with that.

[Anonymous No.1409706]

>>1408160
>gnu+linux free-tard
me too. still need to figure out freeCAD.

[Anonymous No.1409767]

>>1409680
When did I say ASP you absolute spakka? Get your head check Apu.

[Anonymous No.1409771]

Has anyone made JST connectors before? I'm going to need to lengthen the wires coming off my Mosfet to the main board as well as use JST connections to wire my BLtouch so it's not just permanently attached to the main board or LCD cable you have to splice into.

A crimper is like 20 bucks god damn, I'm guessing there's no alternative?

[Anonymous No.1409772]

>>1409673
I actually have had an Anet a8 for just over a year its definitely a beast but I thought you could get another i3 clone with all the little stupid bits fixed like the shitty psu, poor frame etc.

Anyway enjoy having a huge build volume for a fraction of the price of other printers!

[Anonymous No.1409774]

>>1409690
They didn't just break them, they deliberately bricked any microcontroller running a bootleg FTDI USB-Serial chip. The arduino community was quite cross with them.
>>1409767
Retard. >>1409352
>>1409771
Honestly, a crimper isn't entirely necessary. What I do is place the crimp on top of a big nail, then another big nail on top of it, and just bang them hard with a hammer. Crimps perfectly fine.

[Anonymous No.1409785]

>>1409774
That wasnt my post you absolute mongrel. Learn to read threads before you spend your first summer here.

[Anonymous No.1409786]

>>1409774

[Anonymous No.1409791]

>>1409786
>>1409785
>he's onto me, quickly, Inspect Element and call him a summerfag!

[Anonymous No.1409796]

>>1409791
>oh no I've shown my autism powerlevel online, deny deny deny!

Kys retard.

[Anonymous No.1409803]

>>1409247
I guess with complex forms that would be the case, but not with railway boxcars or buildings for example. I could print multiple walls flat and assemble the model while the next batch is printed.

[Anonymous No.1409804]

>>1409785
>>1409786
>>1409791
>>1409796
>anonymous image board about 3d printers
>still manage to get into a childish slap fight

[Anonymous No.1409808]

>>1409804
Stop Im getting too many (Yous) ill need to start tripfagging.

[Anonymous No.1409850]

>>1408010
It tends to be recommended to go half of your nozzle size, 0.2 gets recommended because most people are on a 0.4mm nozzle. If you wanna get anal you can get all into the step sizes of your stepper motors.

[Anonymous No.1409857]

>>1409850
But if you go .2 on .4 nozzle your layers will be all flat and gross

[Anonymous No.1409871]

>>1409850
Really? I'm on a .6 nozzle and I've been printing quite well with .1 and .06 layer height like my slicer defaults were set to.

[Anonymous No.1409880]

>>1409850
Sorry yeah I meant the 0.4mm standard nozzle size seems less ideal than the 0.6mm nozzle because 0.2mm vs 0.3mm layer height is 50% quicker. I could have worded it more precisely.

[Anonymous No.1409887]

>almost 500 anwers before page 11

[Anonymous No.1409895]

>>1409871
Its just as an all rounder size between detail and speed

>>1409857
Don't tell me you like thicc layers

[Anonymous No.1409899]

>>1409895
Like I said. I like my layers like I like my chests: flat.

[Anonymous No.1409932]

Can I use 2.85mm filament in my Anet A8? Shit loads of suppliers are selling tonnes of it because obviously most basedsauce boys stick to the comfort zone of 1.75mm.

I imagine it won't be too problematic.

[Anonymous No.1409935]

>>1409932
You'll need to replace the feeder and probably the nozzle, but yeah, the Anet can absolutely handle it. Remember to change the setting in the slicer from 1.75 to 2.85, or you will get some very excessive overextrusion.

[Anonymous No.1409952]

>>1409935
My 0.6mm nozzle should be fine right? Yeah I've just ordered 2 new 3mm throats for £4. Seems worth since I'm getting all this filament pretty cheap.

[Anonymous No.1409956]

I the manual for my printer says it has titan extruder it means i can print petg right?

[Anonymous No.1409960]

>>1409952
Your nozzle probably won't be fine. The Anet nozzle inner bore is 1.75mm plus however much the nylon tube is, and running that nozzle without the nylon tube isn't an option.

[Anonymous No.1409963]

>>1409956
No, Titan is just the model, sort of like how E3D is also a model. The titan standard nozzle is still just brass. But there are steel and hardened nozzles available to buy, they're not very expensive. I suggest you get both a .4 and a .2 nozzle, .2 really is superb for quality but it's enormously slow.

[Anonymous No.1409969]

>>1409963
PETG doesn't need a harder nozzle.

[Anonymous No.1409972]

>>1409960
Oh shit yeah I completely forgot about the bore size of the nozzle. I'll order some cheap chinesium ones because fuck expensive nozzle.

[Anonymous No.1409976]

>>1409956
The only reason you wouldn't be able to print PETG is if your hot end isn't all metal. Most PETG requires somewhere in the 235C range which is the upper limit of the teflon liners in a heatbreak.

Oh, and don't print PETG directly on glass without like glue stick or tape, it will pull chunks out when you try and remove the print.

[Anonymous No.1409978]

>>1409932
How cheap are you getting the 2.85mm filament? You have to change quite a bit of stuff for that in the hot end, and you can get rolls of maker geeks transitional filament for like $11/kg if you don't really care what color you get. I ordered 2 rolls and got a really nice translucent blue/green PLA and a roll of green raptor series PLA.

I've heard bad things about maker geeks but haven't had any issues with the filament so far.

[Anonymous No.1409979]

>>1409978
Fucking really? I'm getting this stuff for $29 a kilo.

[Anonymous No.1409986]

New thread?

>>1409984

[Anonymous No.1410035]

>>1410000

[Anonymous No.1410037]

>>1409999

[Anonymous No.1410078]

>>1409771
I've not yet, but planning to do the same. Got a kit and printed a dupont crimper gillotine. I'm hoping they are similar enough that this crimper will work. My printer is dialed in enough I only needed 30 sec of sanding to make it fit, YMMV.