Stripped Threads and Heads

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1375369]

How do you deal? What has worked for you and what is a waste of money?

I have a couple more questions to ask, but I want to get a thread going about destroyed threads.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1375377]

>>1375369
My first issue... the old lady’s Jeep got new tires. Of course when she had a nail through the tire and I tried to pop the wheel off to plug it and get her moving again, I was reminded that idiots who mount tires like to use their air impact and torque the lug nuts to 10,000,000 ft-lbs. I used the tire iron from the spare kit in the car, and the tire iron bent and rounded a lug nut. It’s not even like I was using the wrong size 12-pt, so those cunts got it so tight.

Has anybody ever used pic related? Sears has a Craftsman set and it’s around $50 for 6 sockets, but I could order them for less. Will they work or should I go back and throw a fit at Firestone and tell them to figure it out?

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1375387]

>>1375369
#2-

Is it worth it for a weekend warrior to get a tap & die set? How much do I need to spend for something that works? HF has Metric + SAE kits from $45. Sears has a Craftsman 75pc Metric + SAE on sale for $120.

Reason I want to try this- Had to replace the brake lines on my car that go from the hard lines to the caliper. Passenger side line broke down so bad the pads were sticking, and after spending some time in Chicago winters and Florida by the ocean, the bleed nipples were not coming off the caliper so I couldn’t bleed the brakes after replacing the line.

I have the line for the driver’s side and I’m sure it will go soon. But that bleed nipple isn’t coming out. I was debating trying to drill out the old nipple, re-tap the threads, and dropping a new bleed nipple in there. But the caliper is cheaper than the Craftsman set so I only want to try drilling it out and getting the tap & die set if I think I will use the kit a few more times in the future.

Halp /diy/!

[Anonymous No.1375398]

>>1375387
>taps caliper metal gets into caliper ruins o ring buys new caliper anyway

[Anonymous No.1375404]

>>1375369
get a metric socket that almost fits the stripped nut and hammer it on, remove bolt

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1375407]

>>1375398
Yeah that makes sense. I figured if I were to do it, there’s an 80% chance it won’t work right and would have to buy the new caliper anyway. But it’s an excuse to buy more tools.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1375412]

>>1375404
I tried a bit of that. It was just giving me a headache. The problem is those assholes torqued it so fucking tight that it bent the tire iron and stripped the nut so it’s a challenge. Afraid to use a lot of heat on it too because it’s a painted wheel.

Ever tried any of those extractor sockets? I’m curious if they grip when shit is really stuck.

Anybody here work at an auto shop? What would you do? Wreck the thing and get a new stud at the end or is there a better way?

>>1375398
Yeah that makes sense. I figured if I were to do it, there’s an 80% chance it won’t work right and would have to buy the new caliper anyway. But it’s an excuse to buy more tools that I kinda want but have no real use for.

[Anonymous No.1375418]

Ive used those extractor sockets with difficulty but success.
If you get lucky they bite right away and you just move on to impact or cheater bar.
If not lucky, you have you hammer the things on, turn with socket to get a bite, repeating until there's enough grip to turn it without just stripping off more of the head.
Cheap electric impact wrench might be in your future, they come in handy for other things. Otherwise the ones you hit with a hammer might work in this case.

[Anonymous No.1375421]

>>1375377
Yeah those things work pretty good. What type of lug nut is it? If it’s the hollow cap type they are soft as fuck and very easy to fuck up so don’t feel too bad.

>>1375387
Honestly as useful as they are it’s not really something someone that occasionally wrenches would need. Also for what you want to do you’d just do more harm then good.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1375446]

>>1375418
Hmm, maybe I will try them out. I have a big ol’ 120V 1/2” impact, or a 24” breaker bar. When I was trying to get the tire off to patch it more easily, I only had the wrench from the spare jack kit in the car. That’s definitely softer steel, but they went stupid tight for it to bend the wrench before breaking the lug nut loose. Anyway I’m not worried about the torque to get it off, it’s moreso if those things will grip enough to get it off with a 24” breaker bar.

>>1375421
Maybe you’re right on the tap & die. More convinced of the extractor sockets though. The L-shaped wrench from the spare kit, the bent part twisted a bit at a strange angle and then stripped it.

With a regular 6pt socket and breaker or good impact, I would’ve gotten it without stripping I think. But it shouldn’t be so tight that you can’t get it off with the emergency kit.

I want to get fresh nuts before she gets a flat and AAA tells her she needs a tow because they can’t get her wheel off.

[Anonymous No.1375474]

>>1375369
ATFluid/Acetone.
If that doesn't work, heat.

If a bolt is fucked, I use those auto adjustable wrenches like "Snap n' Grip".

[Anonymous No.1375475]

>>1375387
>Is it worth it for a weekend warrior to get a tap & die set?
Yes. Just get a basic set if you rarely use it.
It's one of those thibgs that is irreplaceable when you actually need it.

[Anonymous No.1375482]

I put a cheap ass (ie burner) socket on the bolt and mig weld it on through the hole. The heat breaks everything free.

[Anonymous No.1375504]

as a heavy duty mechanic

vise grips
die grinder cut off wheel
zip cut
oxy acetylene torch
aero kroil

in no particular order

[Anonymous No.1375535]

I'm pretty amateur cut have had success cutting a flat slot into the head, then finding a stiff metal arm of some kind to slide into the groove. A ton of leverage gets it turning, as long as I'm careful to to let it slip out of the slot.

[Anonymous No.1375616]

>>1375369
I usually just drill through the center of the bolt head, once you go so deep it just pops off. The bolt then has no pressure on it and can usually be turned with pliers, if not then cut a flat slot into the top for screwdriver.

[Anonymous No.1375626]

>>1375369
worth every penny

[Anonymous No.1375666]

>>1375377
Haha, you probably looked like a fool on the side of the road. Bet the woman wasn't too proud to call you king after stripping lugs trying to change a tire.

Seriously though, get yourself one of them X shaped heavy duty lug wrenches. Why did you make this thread?

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1375672]

>>1375666
Checked.

And I got the nail out and plug in. It was fine. I looked like an hero as usual. It would’ve been easier with the wheel off the car tho, and that’s when I realized the HS dropout techs decided to torque the thing way too much.

And read the OP. It’s not that I need the tire iron. If I had the breaker bar with me thay day, it would probably be cool. But that overtightened lug is still on there and now it’s stripped so I don’t want her to get into trouble when she needs to call the roadside tire repair place for a flat and they can’t get the wheel off to fix it. I was asking niggers what tools they have had luck with after a whole can of penetrating oil failed.

>>1375626
>tfw discontinued and out of stock everywhere
So how does that thing work? Do you whack the top of it with a hammer and it makes the drive part spin somehow? Can’t find much online but I’m going to keep an eye out for something similar if it’s only $20.

[Anonymous No.1375674]

>>1375672
yeah, you kind of turn it to the direction you want it to spin and hammer the shit out of it to your heart's delight. works with any type of head, and you can work with it with just light taps if you cant get a swing. it's really a godsend, i think i got mine at sears

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1375676]

>>1375674
So is it 1/2” drive?

And what is that cone shaped thing? Does that have the 1/2” socket part on the big side and the driver bits slide in on the smaller side? So you can use it with sockets too, yes?

For my lug nut issue I still want to try those extractor impact sockets if they work. Otherwise find a friend who can weld an old socket onto the lug. Or maybe what other anon said about cutting off the cap of the lug if I can get a dremel cutoff wheel in there without wrecking the rim and finish.

[Anonymous No.1375693]

>>1375387
you really want one of these. just heat the brake bleed nipple a little and it'll move.

[Anonymous No.1375697]

>>1375446
drive it to a mechanic and have them remove the nuts.

>>1375475
>basic set
>when you need it
man i have a constant fucking need to repair threads but i cant afford the thousands of dollars i'd need to pay for all the threads in common sizes. just stupid shit like fixtures not tightenned down all the way and glued in with 2 threads then when you go to use it you cant clean the rusted threads properly. or just generally old shit that I cant get some random type of threaded bolt for in sizes from m0.6 through to m20. its a REAL fucking pain in the ass having to drill out sub mm steel allignment retaining grub screws in aluminium bodies epoxied in place. kill me.

[Anonymous No.1375700]

>>1375387
A tap and die set is one of the most worthwhile purchases I've ever made. Got a Chinkshit (rebranded) one, M3-M10 or so, for 50€ and have used it a few times. Each of those times I would have been absolutely lost without the set.

To get off somewhat accessible rounded bolts, the chisel trick works well: hit a notch into the head with a chisel then hit the notch laterally to get the bolt unstuck. Just be sure you're pointing the chisel into the right direction.

[Anonymous No.1375701]

>>1375676
Bepis, I'm gonna answer you just because I like the tfg threads. Those swirly extractor sockets that you hammer on will work fine. I'm a tire tech who has to deal with this kind of shit daily.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1375707]

>>1375701
What brand do you use nigger? They all pretty much work the same or is one design significantly better than another?

I might go to Lowe’s later. Looked at HF and they didn’t have anything like it. And I probably would’ve grabbed the Craftsman set already if it wasn’t so overpriced.

[Anonymous No.1375708]

>>1375676
yes

>extractor impact sockets
are those the ones where it's like a backwards drill? i tried those before and they work about half the time for me, and then theres also the fact you got to work on the bolt a little before you can use them, AND you still gotta hammer them in. my bolts were little 10 mm but still

the hammer impact driver, all you do is twist and smack

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1375710]

>>1375708
By extractor sockets, I meant one of these. The thing you posted looks good for getting some torque on it, but the lugnut is still stripped. So if I had the thing you were talking about, I could jam pic related over the rounded lug and use your little impact tool to get it turning.

[Anonymous No.1375713]

>>1375710
no man use your brain
>rounded off end
>bottom edges still extant
>hammer action forces socket DOWN, grabs onto the edges you otherwise cant get to

just buy it u nerd, or ill shave your ears off

[Anonymous No.1375717]

>>1375377
>throw a fit at Firestone
Do this. If they didn't put them on with a torque wrench so that they were, you know, the proper torque, then they fucked up.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1375718]

>>1375713
Sears doesn’t sell them anymore. I’m probably going to go to Lowes and browse today. If I see one I’ll grab it.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1375720]

>>1375717
Exactly, I kinda want to do that just to make them work. I’m not even expecting them to be perfect, but why the fuck to they torque them so tight that a person can’t even get them off with the spare tire iron? And that tire iron is like 16”, not like I was trying to take it off with a 1/4” ratchet.

[Anonymous No.1375721]

>>1375720
They're idiots that think more torque means its safer because the wheel won't come off. Make them pay for their stupidity

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1375724]

This is interesting...

The lug is 19mm, so I hammered an 18mm 12pt socket on there and this is what came out

[Anonymous No.1375725]

>>1375724
neat, jeep puts potmetal decoration over the real nuts?

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1375730]

>>1375725
I know. What the fuck.

Must be like a 17mm under there. But one corner is slightly rounded and I was trying to pick out the rest of that tin bullshit further down and can’t get all of it so the 17 doesn’t really fit. I don’t want to go crazy and strip it more because I think right now I might have better luck with the extractor while there are still some edges on the nut.

But this all comes back to my original issue... it’s on there so fucking tight that it bent the tire iron so whatever extractor I use will have to bite really well to get the thing off.

[Anonymous No.1375737]

>>1375730
add heat, lots of heat

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1375739]

>>1375737
That made it easier to spray some penetrating oil in there but I don’t think rust is the issue. No oxy acetelyne torch, so my best bet is roasting it with the little butane torch. At least that potmetal cap coming off gives me a little more room to work because I don’t want to totally fuck up the wheel on the car.

[Anonymous No.1375758]

>>1375387
dies suck ass, they always have and always will, good luck actually using one for something other than cleaning up existing threads.

jamming one onto a shaft takes a lot of horsepower and a solid setup, just for a sub-par result and probably lots of broken dies.

[Mr. Bill !!RaXwnZcqrP2 No.1375773]

>>1375730

Best reply in this thread. Something about tripcodes just goes with quality. Nice to see you here, hope to see your trip regularly

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1375775]

Got pic related for $15 at Lowes. Hopefully it will get me out of a jam one day. I didn’t realize how big those driver bits were, not regular 1/4”.

And they had those Irwin extractor socket things but the set wasn’t big enough.

>>1375758
I assume that’s what the $1000+ tap and die sets are for, if you meed to cut brand new threads and make it last more than one or two jobs.

I don’t mind spending $20 on a tool I will use once, but the tap and die set is a little much.

[Anonymous No.1375809]

>>1375672
>tfw discontinued and out of stock everywhere

Its $15 prime on amazon right now
Tekton Impact Driver
You can find other brands too

[Anonymous No.1375812]

>>1375387
>spending $120
>on CRAFTSMAN

buy the fucking gearwrench set for the same price

[Anonymous No.1375814]

>>1375758
chamfer the end and use tap magic. Use the correct "start" side of the die, and then dont be a fucking buffoon and force the die.
They work great if the die is halfway decent

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1375815]

>>1375809
Got it from Lowes. I didn’t even see it til the last second.

Some of those tools pissed me off though, like I don’t understand why they want $30-$40 for a small chisel set. If I don’t see them on sale somewhere, I’ll end up at HF for those.

>>1375812
Idk if I’m even going to do it. Maybe it will be one of those things I keep my eyes open for at the pawn shop,

[Anonymous No.1375820]

>>1375815
Taps and dies are wear items
So yes you can find old taps and dies, but unless they are lightly used/new even old proper high end ones wont cut worth a damn.

They will save your ass one day.

[Homer No.1375832]

Learnt my lesson many, many, many years ago. Every vehicle has a 24" cheater bar with the appropriate sized socket. Trained the girly girls to at least make an attempt before playing the damsel in distress card.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1375836]

>>1375820
Good to know.

>>1375832
Yeah with the price of HF breaker bars, I might have to do that soon. The one good thing is I keep this goofy little tool kit in my car so I can typically get by with the big 1/2” drive ratchet and a hammer if something is tight.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1376604]

>>1375815
Advance Auto Parts is gouging! It’s the same exact tool except the Lowe’s one has a little carrying case for leas than half the price.

Found something cool at Advance though, it’s specificaly for stripped lug nuts. It’s 2 impact sockets and on the inside they’re reverse threaded. So as you have the impact going in reverse, they thread on tighter and tigher and then supposedly loosen the nut.

[Anonymous No.1376612]

>>1375482
easier to just weld a nut to it. pretty much impossible to do with those fucking capped lugs tho

[Anonymous No.1376613]

>>1375724
yep those are the capped lugs i was talking about. VERY common on dodge shit. the end is hollow so if you don't get deep enough to hit the actual nut you'll just twist the end off. if the nut is really tight you'll peel off that cap later and also strip the actual nut in the process just like in your pic.

now that you have the real nut exposed try one of those extractors or if you have access to a welder just weld a nut on to the end of it. suggest deflating the tire before doing any welding

i'd also suggest replacing all the lugs nuts with something solid so this shit doesn't happen again

[Anonymous No.1376642]

>>1375724

Dont use 12 points on 6 sided bolts then? Probably would of come off fine if you used 6 point.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1376655]

>>1376642
The 6 bolt was stripped to fuck because the tire shop guys torqued it to 10,000,000 ft-lbs and when I had to take it off with the spare tire iron, the tire iron bent and it slipped off the nut.

I think I mentioned the 12pt because now with that tin shit coming off partially, that seemed to grip it best. But the lugs are still soooooo tight.

I was at Advance Auto today and saw this for $11 so I think that may be my next approach. I’ll throw them on the big ol’ Black & Decker corded impact and see what happens.

If that doesn’t work, it’s going back to firestone.

[Anonymous No.1376657]

If anyone could help; I've got rounded nuts on some roll bolts. I need to put shims under what's anchored buy them, so I cant destroy them

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1376659]

...and my new fucking challenge today...

Decided to throw on a new serpentine belt because this car is probably running on the one from the factory. Transverse engine so you have to remove the passenger side wheel and the mudguard to get to it.

It’s one of those plastic pins and 4 little bolts. The 2 bolts in the wheel well were rough, but eventually came out. The two under the front lip of the car, the head sheared off.

So I thought about drilling them out, but it’s a tough location to get a straight shot with the drill bit unless I take the whole front bumper off. I had to use a long extension and u-joint to get them out. But I think if I drill a fresh hole like 1” away from the broken ones, straight thru the plastic and metal, I can drop two new self tapping screws in to hold it.

[Anonymous No.1376691]

>>1376659
>, the head sheared off.

at some point you need to realize that you are not a very good mechanic, and you're the kind of clown who ruins a car so much that the next owner can never get anything half-way right on it again.

Not everyone has mechanical aptitude; it's nothing to be ashamed of as long as you realize it and stop doing damage. Unfortunately some guys spend their entire lives fucking things up and always blaming the tire shop or someone else.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1376696]

>>1376691
Do you live in the desert? If you live anywhere with bad winters where they lay down salt and the car is more than a couple years old, you’re bound to run into a bunch of problems. I was using a short 1/4” drive ratchet, it’s not like I even put that much force into the things.

Anyway best way to learn is to try. I got my serpentine belt on the right way and threw a couple of those self tapping screws in place of the two that sheared off. Everything went back fine. That’s the first time I ever did that job. I’m just messing with a bunch of shit lately because I finally have the time.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1376701]

>>1376691
>>1376696
And the lug nut thing, what was I supposed to do about that? Was trying to get it off with the repair kit and they hit it soooo hard with the impact that the tire iron bent. The thing bent, it slipped off, stripped it. Shit happens. If I had the breaker and proper sockets, we would be straight.

The bleed nipple, I have one regret about that. I used an open ended wrench and it was too seized. If I could redo it, I would probably use a 6pt socket instead. Watched Youtube videos, dudes using wrenches on them all day, then realize the car is in California, not Chicago. And fwiw there was a dude on /o/ like yesterday who had the same issue with the seized nipple. It’s going to get a whole new caliper which is probably what a shop would do to me anyway.

Most of my repair projects go smoother than expected considering it’s my first time trying. But not sure what else you do when a little screw shears off with the force of a baby 1/4” ratchet.

[Anonymous No.1376721]

>>1376659
Heat is your friend.
Heat the fuck out of thenuts and hit them with kroil. Few taps with the hammer to break the rust free and they should turn out.
Ez-out them out. Use a left twist bit if you can find one, sometimes that's enough.
TIG a nut on the stub if above does not work.
Final option is to drill/EDM the hole clean using an bit smaller than threads then pick the remaining material out of the threads and clean up with a tap or thread file.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1376733]

>>1376721
It’s all done now. Drilled the old shit and put new self tapping ones a tiny bit larger in their place.

It was impossible to hear those ones because they were holding in the plastic trim. Would’ve started a fire. Like I said, the first 2 took a little bit to break loose but then came out just using a 1/4” drive ratchet. Not like I used a cheater bar. Those two were in the wheel well. The next two were like under the front bumper, and both of those were probably so fucked from the elements down there inches from the road. I barely even used any force before they sheared off. I was suprised.

This car got hell though. It spent 5 years in Chicago winters and I think whoever had it before me never washed any salt off. And I have it like a mile away from the ocean so there’s still salt in the air. Anything under the car that hasn’t been replaced yet is guaranteed to be a pain in the ass.

When I did the brake line stuff a month or two ago, I was suprised I was able to get those fittings apart without more trouble. The bleed nipples were the only thing that got me. They are also a different metal from the calipers, they’re shiny and not cast iron. Not sure if that makes it worse.

[Anonymous No.1376810]

>>1376604
Menards sells one in a metal case for $8.99, its identical to the Tekton and amazon ones

[Anonymous No.1376871]

>>1375412
>What would you do? Wreck the thing and get a new stud at the end or is there a better way?
If they've overtorqued it that much, they've probably stretched the stud out and fucked it, new nuts won't fit. Do what you gotta do, because those parts are getting replaced too. Nut breakers are a thing, just a little tapered piece that you tighten onto the side of the nut until it cracks off.

[Anonymous No.1377036]

>>1375369
Grind new, smaller threads, then use the next ratchet bit down to unscrew. Have had to do it a couple times changing the blades on my mower decks. No biggie, do it in a minute or two.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1377040]

>>1376810
No menards here. I think they’re all the same damn thing but marketed different ways.

Oh and I was fucking with that lugnut today using that thing and it was nice because it wasn’t slipping, but it wasn’t turning at all. I’m going to make the tire shop deal with it.

>>1377036
Did that with the bleed nipple. I guess stripped and completely fucking seized are two different issues lol.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1377104]

My headlight burnt out this morning. I just replaced it and didn’t break or strip anything!

[Anonymous No.1377131]

good luck with that OP, you are about out of options with some guarantee of success. Suggest pre-treat with penetrating oil, let set then more before trying extractor socket. Can you get 1/2" impact on it, in F direction, maybe to rattle it before trying to back bolt out.

[Anonymous No.1377135]

>>1375724
Can confirm. Jeepfag here.
Best use a six sided deep-well socket for those.
I use a sparkplug socket. Same size.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1377141]

>>1377131
I bought a 2.5lb steel mallet this morning so next time I can get to it I’m going to keep going with that extractor here >>1375815 I think I was using it with a 12pt 17mm socket yesterday and that extractor is cool because the hammering pushes the socket down on the mangled nut so it wasn’t really slipping. But using a regular hammer wasn’t getting a lot of pressure on it and the big rubber mallrt doesn’t shock it as much.

>>1377135
It shouldn’t even be an issue if they were put on with less than 10x the spec’d torque. I’ve gotten cars back from the shop with tight lugnuts before but even a 1/2” drive ratchet and a couple taps with a hammer would get them off if I didn’t have the breaker bar.

[Anonymous No.1377142]

>>1377141
>I bought a 2.5lb steel mallet
Good choice. It will become your dearest friend.

[Anonymous No.1377277]

>>1376604
just so you know those reverse threaded nuts are like one time use kind of thing. I had to remove the keyed lugs from an ex's car because she didnt understand what a key was.

I had to make two trips to autozone to buy more because its impossible to get them out, only have to have the stupid bitch digging through her car and find the key after all was done.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1377314]

>>1377277
I was thinking about that, like if it’s torqued on super tight, it’s going to get threaded in there really tight too. Unless you had a spare stud somewhere and could find a way to thread the stud back in there and use another wrench to get it out.

Anyway I didn’t even use them yet. After that pot metal cap busted off, the two sockets were too big for the remaining nut. Hopefully I won’t have any more strip besides that one as long as I have the breaker bar and correct 6pt instead of the wrench from the spare kit.

[Anonymous No.1377318]

>>1377135
>Best use a six sided deep-well socket for those.

6 and 12 point sockets engage in the same exact place, its placebo

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1377336]

>>1377318
12pt is straight for stuff that isn’t seized onto the bottom of my car from salt, but I’m going to take the advice and use 6pt sockets on 6pt bolts when I’m using a breaker bar. If the fit is right, they should grab more of the bolt.

Oh and has anybody messed with the newer style of 12pt? Like those black Craftsman sockets or their pass-through ratchet. The points aren’t a sharp angle like normal, it’s more like half circles. I think some brands are calling them “universal sockets”.

>pics still not uploading
These things:
https://m.sears.com/craftsman-19-piece-3-8inch-dr-inch-and-metric/p-00924963000P

[Anonymous No.1377409]

>>1377336
Its pretty much spline drive, and they rip your fasteners up. Especially if you buy the spline drives that are the super loose fitting ones that are both metric and SAE.
They sell both Metric and SAE sizes, and the inbetween "universal" ones.

I own those specific craftsman sockets (didnt buy the set, bought the SAE and the Metric set separately). Mediocre
Also used the Channellock inbetween universal ones, even worse.

[Anonymous No.1377412]

>>1375369
PowerBuilt Xeon sockets
Same idea as the Mac sockets, can find them in regular sets at pepboys and other places, arent super expensive. They also sell lug nut sized ones.
Here is the main idea
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2unK4kx33zs

[Anonymous No.1377487]

>>1375369
the one in picture? If nothing else worked I'd probably break down and grab a monkey wrench and give it hell with that and a breaker bar on the end. That gets it most of the time. If it's in a location that isn't going to get contrary about some extra heat, I might hit it with a propane torch just to see if expanding the metal around it might break something free. Also PB Blaster, or Kroil penetrating oil works some times. Just a run of the mill redneck here.

[Anonymous No.1377490]

>>1375724
hahaha, i had the same nuts on my jeep. the wlrst crap i have ever seen.

there is a steel inut inside a stainless shell, which means that thd nut rusts and the shell doesent. when you slip a fitting socket on, the shell slips around the nut and breaks, and you are in shitwater.

Hammer on a one size smaller six sided socket, or use an extractor socket. forgetbabout those shitty nuts, and buy solid ones.

i own three jeeps, but jesus crist they are not the best quality cars.

[Anonymous No.1377655]

>>1376691
This guy gets it. Bro. You shouldn’t be doing your own maintenance. I bet you jumped on the tyre iron. Also when did the tyres go on? You’re talking about everything being seized from salt. Also if you bring that mangled wheel nut into my tyre shop you’d get charged labour and new part.

[Anonymous No.1377664]

>>1376701
>>1376696
Have you ever heard of penetrating lubricant or a braising iron you stupid tripfag fuck? The answer is not MOAR TORQUE, it is smart application of methods to crack stubborn nuts, backed with a liberal dose of patience.

> but muh painted surfaces!
Use pic related to insulate them.

> t. lives in the coastal tropics and has seen more rusted steel than hot breakfasts.

[Anonymous No.1377666]

>>1375724
Are people actually this stupid?

[Anonymous No.1377877]

i usually try vice grips after i shoot some PB blaster on it and heat it so it soaks in a few times. Then replace the bolt when you get it out.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1377971]

>>1377655
>>1377664
Salty.

>>1377666
Hey satan. Stupid for breaking the nut? I am. Stupid design with the potmetal cap? That’s a Chrysler thing. They’re a special sort of company.

>>1377877
What’s the preferred method of heating? Can I get shit hot enough with one of those propane torches or do I absolutely need to go full oxy acetyline? And you say I should spray it, heat it, let it cool for a couple cycles to soak up the penetrating oil?

>>1377655
That one wasn’t even seized. The brake caliper shit was seized. That wheel nut, I think she had gotten new tires a month or two before so I don’t think it’s the issue. That was the high school dropouts at the tire place going as hard as they can with the impact.

If it was even reasonably close, the thing should’ve broken loose with the ~16” tire iron before the fucking wrench bent and twisted and slipped off. I didn’t slip it by jumping on it, it slipped when the wrench bent. It’s not my first time taking lugnuts off a car, but it’s the first time I’ve encountered one so damn tight.

>tfw was playing with the torque wrench today just to see what 100ft-lbs (the recommended torque) feels like
Yeah they shouldn’t be tightening them to a magnitude higher than the spec’d numbers. How do you tighten lug nuts so tight that the owner can’t even put on a spare tire because the tire iron is incapable of removing them?

[Anonymous No.1377997]

>>1377971
air-propane usually works, but oxy-propane always works.
oxy cutting has an awesome quirk; the oxy jet only burns glowing-hot steel, not cold steel or rust, so once you've got the knack of it you can wash the red-hot nut right off, then reuse the undamaged bolt.

[Bepis !n/ZnkB9jUw No.1378007]

>>1377997
So you think something like pic related would be more effective than my little butane torch?

I think it might be worth the investment as long as I’m dealing with this car. Anything underneath is a challenge.