/3dpg/ - 3D Printing General

[Anonymous No.1374803]

Old thread >>1364963

Need help with prints? Post:
>filament type, bed & extruder temp, print & fan speed, etc

Still new pasta, feel free to contribute

>general info
https://www.3dhubs.com/what-is-3d-printing
https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base
Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker

>open source community
http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Machines
http://forums.reprap.org/
#RepRap @freenode

>buyfag buyers guide
https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide
Any cheap chinkshit kit

>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki (lots of useful stuff)
http://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/index

>why do my prints look like shit, visual troubleshooting
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

>how to calibrate
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints
https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer
http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide
http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/
youtu.be/w_Wb0i0-Qvo

>where do I get files to print?
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://www.youmagine.com/
http://www.thingiverse.com/
https://www.myminifactory.com/

>what programs do you make your own files with
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing
http://www.freecadweb.org/
https://www.blender.org/
http://www.openscad.org/
https://www.onshape.com/
http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview

>what kind of filament do I want
Begin with a roll of known brand PLA before moving to more demanding materials.
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/28-material-guide
http://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare

>Hotends
e3d and its clones

>SLA&DLP
http://www.buildyourownsla.com/
http://www.nanodlp.com/

>SLS
http://sintratec.com/ SLS kit.

[Anonymous No.1374855]

I made a hub for my go kart rear sprocket out of PLA, do you think it'll last? I would use ABS if i had a heated bed.

[Anonymous No.1374859]

>printer machine broke
>replacement LCD/board has to either be imported from Spain (the printer manufacturer) or Australia (the board manufacturer)
>unique control board so no other options (??)
>will cost $150+ and take a month to get here regardless of who i buy from
>or try to find an American reseller on eBay or whatever

well
ok

Guess I take a chance with finding a cheaper workaround or just pay the money
...Though that's how most printer repairs go desu senpai

[Anonymous No.1374863]

>>1374859
I mean i suppose if you're a proprietaryhardwarecuck.

[Anonymous No.1374865]

>>1374863
I really am, but it's much too late to choose a different printer

[Anonymous No.1374869]

>>1374865
Does the printer have other standard hardware like steppera etc.? I mean you might want to consider something like the rambo or smoothie, you could 'em for that 150$

[Anonymous No.1374873]

>>1374869
The only standard parts on this machine are pretty much just the moving parts of the linear motion system

It's a really nice motion system with Hiwin rails and metal structural components though, so the printer has that going for it.

[Anonymous No.1374903]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1tnDItw0ZLc

Anycubic Photon overview by a traditional model/diorama maker - a slightly different perspective than your Anguses and Sanladerers, but not a ton of insightful info.

[Anonymous No.1374948]

got my Sparkmaker SLA printer

[Anonymous No.1374949]

>>1374948
tiny benchy

[Anonymous No.1374952]

>>1374949
one of the sample files

the base is the size of a nickel

[Anonymous No.1374980]

>>1374863
Sigma is open source

[Anonymous No.1374982]

>>1374803
are there any of these that are hot puggable? i got one for anet but also wanted to used one with pc but they all seem to require you to disconnect and reconnect the cable in order to reinsert a different sd card.

[Anonymous No.1374991]

>>1374980
are there people on /diy/ who you can source pcb hardware from?
not that it would necessarily help that guy but it would be cool to know that someone personally made it and you didn't get some chinese sweatshop board

[Anonymous No.1374994]

>>1374982
eh, think ill try a usb extender with this usb sd card reader, it says hot swappable, hope it means what i think it does

[Anonymous No.1375083]

>>1374982
there is a switch in the card slot that tells the computer when you pull the card in and out, if the extender is still plugged in the computer doesn't know you have swapped the actual card.
usb will work because the only detection is at your card.

[Anonymous No.1375146]

I'm having a really frustrating time with trying to get my heat bed to work. I have tried 2 beds so far and haven't gotten them to heat up at all. The one I'm trying to use has continuity from the power port to the D8 port, I have TEMP_SENSOR_BED set to 11, and BED_MINTEMP set to 5, there is enough power available for it since I have a 400W PSU for the whole thing. The hot end starts heating up but no voltage is measured across the heat bed and after some seconds it fails to detect a change in temperature so it stops with the "Failure to Heat; Reset Device" error.
I'm trying to control it using an attached LCD control screen/sd card reader so it's not hooked up to a computer with repetier or anything.

I've made sure none of the components are touching like the bent MOSFETs or stray wires or anything. I've tried 2 heat beds now and am so tried of this I'm tempted to just try a different arduino mega and ramps board to see if something is just fucked on my current ones.

I don't know what I'm doing wrong, does anyone know what might be the problem?

[Anonymous No.1375168]

>>1375146
If the bed mosfet doesn't even blink (it has a led in parallel with the bed) it's dead-open

[Anonymous No.1375181]

>>1375146
douse it put a voltage on the bed connectors?
Y > bed is broke try another one
N > controler is broke, try another one

[Anonymous No.1375187]

>>1375146
so what u r saying is point 4 is always at 0 volt respective to ground?

sins the arduino works i assume the 5v is present on point 1.

what is the voltage on point 2 and 3?
if 2 is 0v your PSU is broke
if 3 is always 0v, something is wrong in the arduino code.
if only v4 stays 0v your mosfet is broke or u conected it wrong or the bed is shorted somewhere.

[Anonymous No.1375188]

>>1375187
>he bed is shorted somewhere.
The bed is a short, dummy

[Anonymous No.1375190]

https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-s5

Ultimaker seems to be moving completely away from the hobby market.

[Anonymous No.1375193]

>>1374952

Hmm it's very crisp yet very pixelated/voxelated looking, what resolution is the LCD on this printer?

[Anonymous No.1375208]

>>1375193
i think that if he printed that on it's side rather than vertical, it made the layer lines more noticeable

[Anonymous No.1375241]

>>1375188
the bed is a big resistor of thin tracing or wire and should still have a resistance.

[Anonymous No.1375263]

>>1375241
Yeah , between 1 and 3 ohm

[Anonymous No.1375292]

Are there any good extrusion systems for silicone rubber? I think it would need to be pumped out as a liquid and allowed to set. Can't let it dry completely between layers because they wouldn't fuse properly, though.

I'm wanting to make some soft-robotics hydraulically operated actuators with complex internal structures.

[Anonymous No.1375362]

>>1374803
any way to control printer with computer, like with repetier software and start print from sd card, but be able to disconnect mid print?
for long prints repetier sometimes crashes, or sometimes i just want to turn pc off.

[Anonymous No.1375424]

>>1375292
These worked well enough for me to mix two components together, pretty wide opening though. I don't know of any silicones that set as fast as you'd like, I think.

http://a.co/caSXarf

[Anonymous No.1375489]

>>1375208

On its side or not, you can still see well defined pixels, like the model is constructed of tiny cubes.

I'm asking because i'm currently loking at what kind of display i can use toi make an SLA printer and the one used for the D7 has really high pixel density - 534ppi. It goes for around 120-130$ with the HDMI->MIPI controller, so my guess is that the Sparkmaker being a "budget printer" would possibly use a different display.

[Anonymous No.1375614]

>>1375489
it was printed vertically, and the Sparkmaker does have a budget screen with a PPI of only 254

[Anonymous No.1375660]

>>1375362
I do this regulary with printrun.
>load g-coode onto SD card
>hit print from sd
>hit disconnect
>remove USB cable
never failed me

[Anonymous No.1375699]

>>1375424
Seriously WTF. It's just a link to Amazon selling insulin syringes. How does that help with 3D printing? Am I supposed to refill the syringe every two minutes?

/diy/ still keeping up its reputation of being completely fucking useless I guess.

[Anonymous No.1375704]

>>1375699
Well, you asked for an extrusion system, and most projects I've seen that use liquid to print use syringes. You can notch the plunger to use it with a stepper, plus adjust the size as needed for your project.

Or you could just keep being a cunt, that works too.

[Anonymous No.1375722]

>>1375614

Thanks, that's what i wanted to know. I looked around at what type of screens you could get for an SLA and the most expensive part isn't the screen itself, but the MIPI-DSI controller needed to drive it. Unlike with LVDS and eDP screens there are almost no boards out there for driving MIPI. The Raspberry Pis have had a DSI connector for many years now but nobody has been able to take advantage of it because of proprietary crap. And even if they could, apparently there aren't enough lanes on it to drive 1440p.

Only other good screem i found were the iPad retina displays which use the eDP interface and have a larger and more square "build volume" of 7.9''. But they're still only 324ppi which, although better, is nowhere close to the 534PPI of the MIPI screen.

[Anonymous No.1375728]

It's happening lads.

[Anonymous No.1375732]

>>1375728
And success! I finally managed to complete a print with this godforsaken plastic ABS with the power of gluestick and chink magic alone! No such things as heated beds of proper enclosures.

[Anonymous No.1375738]

>>1375732
It's a hub for a go-kart rear sprocket similar to the one at the start of this thread just out of ABS this time, do you think it'll last?

[Anonymous No.1375740]

>>1375738
It could, depending on the forces on it. I would be very cautious with it, seems like it might melt or wear easily.

[Anonymous No.1375745]

>>1375740
I mean as for the forces the kart is powered by a simple 7hp 4-stroke with a centrifugal clutch. And yes i'm a bit worried about it wearing quickly though i do hope that doesn't happen. Heat shouldn't really be a problem now should it? Only source of heat i can think of is the friction from the chain and even that would have to be conducted by the sprocket.

[Anonymous No.1375748]

>>1375745
I don't know if they're made in that size but maybe a brass bushing (or at least some kind of insert) would help with wear. If there's no shaft in the middle of that hole then heat shouldn't be much of an issue.

[Anonymous No.1375778]

>>1375738
>you think it'll last
depends on the print settings. Just eyeballing it, the floor/roof thickness looks a bit thin, which could cause stress cracks anywhere it meets a wall

[Anonymous No.1375782]

What would I use to coat something printed in PLA? A coworker of mine wants a keychain in a clear PLA and normally I print with ABS and would treat it with acetone, but no bueno for PLA.

[Anonymous No.1375793]

>>1375782
Clear polyurethane spray, sold in aerosol cans at Home Depot/Lowe's

[Anonymous No.1375819]

>>1375782
Check previous threads. Theres is a lot of ways to do it.

[Anonymous No.1375848]

>>1375782
Can't you buy "clear ABS"? It's not really ABS since it doesn't have one of the three components but you can vapor smooth it as well

[Anonymous No.1375886]

First time 3d printer here, I have narrowed all the possible printers I want to work with down to this one.

Plan on making an order next month.

Now I want to know of some recommended modifications to it. I know for sure I am giving it a glass build plate. Anything else?

Keep in mind, I really only ever plan on printing with PLA. I am going to be totally boring and not experiment with ABS or nylot or flex filament or anything like that.

[Anonymous No.1375912]

>>1375886
Try perfboard as well and print with a raft

That's an excellent printer while it works. A guy I know who produces some educational robotics toys used a bunch of them to prototype his parts. His only complaints were that it is slow as fuck and he couldn't print ABS in it (which you won't do)

BTW, has anyone tried this "B3" hotend? It's a clone of a kickstarted hotend by some american dudes. It doesn't come with a heatsink fan and it seems like the upper fins get hot enough to soften ABS.

[Anonymous No.1375916]

>>1375886
switch to a higher wattage power supply, especially if you noticed the steppers seeming weak (extruder slipping)

[Anonymous No.1375918]

>>1375886
dry your filaments and use a dust filter of sorts for your filament
try oiling your nozzle a bit, too

[Anonymous No.1375924]

>>1375886
>am going to be totally boring
Why so, out of curiosity?

[Anonymous No.1375927]

>>1375912
ill check out perfboard as well. And looking into rafts, i hear its only necessary for things that dont have a natural big print base. Like statues with bases dont need rafts, but do need skirts. Statues without bases need rafts though. I will be experimenting with it though. Most of what I am going to print will be /tg/ related stuff, like wargames terrain and dungeon tiles and stuff.

>>1375916
Interesting. I saw somewhere that switching to a better PSU is only necessary when printing with ABS to handle the hotter temps. But if it's necessary for even PLA I will look into it.

>>1375918
Interesting suggestion with oiling the nozzle. Could that cause issues in the hot end?

I should mention I do plan on making an acrylic enclosure to keep dust off the printer and filament.As far as I know dust can accumulate in the hot end and create clogs.

>>1375924
I honestly see no need to. I'm not making mechanical parts or really functioning parts. It's all going to making scenery and stuff for tabletop wargames and roleplaying games. So everything will get painted at least with acrylics. The 3d printing, while should be looked at as a hobby in of itself, is really the secondary to my main hobby of /tg/

[Anonymous No.1375963]

>>1375793
Thanks for the idea, I think I actually have an old can laying around. I'll try using it on a previous failed print and see how it turns out.
>>1375819
As much as I'd love to crawl through 500+ posts, I don't think my attention span would last.
>>1375848
I don't doubt it exists somewhere, but I can't wait for shipping. I already have a roll of natural PLA in my stock and he wants the keychain by early next week.

[Anonymous No.1375965]

>>1375927
>It's all going to making scenery and stuff for tabletop wargames and roleplaying games.
Honestly although PLA is easier to print, I think ABS post-processing is way easier. I find ABS sands better, and ABS slurry make fixing prints super quick and painless.

[Anonymous No.1375983]

>>1375965
This is why I don't really plan on printing anything like actual miniatures, just terrain and buildings, where the ribbing isnt really that noticeable, especially after painting. Pic related is something printed. It was done in ABS, but there was no finishing smoothing or sanding done to it, just painting. I've seen other stuff done using PLA, and you can notice the texture up close, but for tabletop wargaming, it's more than enough. It's going to sure beat resin casting and sculpting.

[Anonymous No.1376068]

>>1375983
Interesting, do you think that there is a market for this kind of stuff? I don't value my time too highly so i wouldn't mind printing that kind of towers aand whatnot for cheap, don't know how to paint them tho.

[Anonymous No.1376071]

>>1376068
That company, printable scenery, sells the 3d models and systems, not the prints. So if you want to sell prints, you are going to want to model your own wargaming terrain and sell the prints. Fat dragon games does similar stuff as well.

Also theres a bunch of free stuff on thingiverse. I have been compiling a big list of stuff I would want to potentially print over time.

[Anonymous No.1376076]

>>1374855
>do you think it'll last
What happens if it doesn't?
How hot will the part get?

[Anonymous No.1376140]

>>1376076
If it doesn't then the kart wont move anymore be able to maintain speed or accelerate. And no, i can't think of any way it'll get hot.

[Anonymous No.1376411]

>>1374803
what is a decent quality printer with the largest build area for the money?
should i get a tevo tornado?

[Anonymous No.1376422]

>>1376411
ive heard great things from the creality, the tevos, and the prusa is often talked about as the best in kits

[Anonymous No.1376562]

>>1376411
I believe that is currently the best dollar:build volume printer on the market. However, it doesn't run perfectly out of the box - while I was able to print the spool holder included on the SD card without an issue with only a bed leveling, I took the preventative measure of turning the stepper driver voltages up to 1v to avoid the common y-shift problem. Apparently the newest ones come with drivers that don't produce the salmon skin artifact but mine does, the 8 diode smoothers were cheap but I haven't installed them yet because most stuff that I make which shows salmon skin artifacts gets refinished anyway, and a lot of things I print just don't show it at all.

[Anonymous No.1376592]

>>1374952
>>1375614

You tried using the antialiasing option in NanoDLP? I'm curious if you can get a smooth surface finish with it on.

[Anonymous No.1376598]

reeeeeeeeeee why wont my prints stick to the god damn bed
they keep on detaching midprint. i tried hairspray and gluestick so far and nothing has really worked

[Anonymous No.1376610]

>>1376598
bruh if it's abs ya gotta smear that stick on there real good to have any effect and if it's pla then idk what's wrong with yo shit, ought to work fine

[Anonymous No.1376638]

Does this shit have potential? Want to make a hexapod.

[Anonymous No.1376667]

>>1376598
Is it abs?
Are you using the heated printer bed?

[Anonymous No.1376699]

>>1376598
It could also be level height. Maybe your printer great keeps knocking the print because it's too close, dislodging the print

[Anonymous No.1376745]

>>1375263
Not the person who you've been talking to about their heat bed, but i dropped by to ask about this. My printer's heat bed is 0.8 ohms when cold. I am suspecting that is the cause of the board burning out.

Is the 1-3 ohm range for beds at temp or off/cold?

Is 0.8 ohms then confirmed for being defective? I take it this low of a resistance will draw too much power regardless and is not a use-a-mosfet-board-to-fix kind of solution.

[Anonymous No.1376773]

>>1376598
r a f t

[Anonymous No.1376776]

>>1376773
Man fuck why can't there be a raft bottom fill option, i don't give two shits about surface finish on some parts just want 'em to stick realy hard and not warp at all, wasting filament and having to remove the raft is annoying.

[Anonymous No.1376779]

>>1376773

2008 called, they want their solution back

>>1376598

What bed surface are you using? Is the bed heated?

[Anonymous No.1376780]

>>1376779
Who gives a fuck? It works. I've never had any print on a raft come off, nor have I had one stick too well and get really hard to remove. It's a good solution for finicky prints.

[Anonymous No.1376844]

>>1375728
>>1375732
>>1375738
How much did that printer cost? im surprised it doesnt have a heated bed as i got an anet a8 for £160 and it has a heated bed, got it set to get really good prints from pla and flexible filament, havent tried abs due to having no enclosure and the printers in my room so i dont wanna sleep with all the fumes

[Anonymous No.1376876]

Anyone ever do a hotswap of filament? Just realised I might not have enough plastic on the spool for an 18 hour print and I'm 10 hours in, cut the old plastic near the extruder and fed the new one in, it's a different colour but appears to have worked well

[Anonymous No.1376917]

>>1376844
$130 In hindsight spending the few extra bucks for a heated bed would have been worth it but eh whatever.

[Anonymous No.1376997]

>>1374803
im so confused

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Monoprice-MP-i3-3D-Printer-Fully-Assembled-MicroSD-Sample-PLA-Ebay-Exclusive-/372243455532?rmvSB=true

[Anonymous No.1377009]

Is it possible to use an android phone, say a Note 4, to run Octoprint via USB directly to a printer?

[Anonymous No.1377039]

>>1376997
That is interesting. It looks like it's pretty much the mp select mini v2 without the heated bed and a smaller display. That's why it's saying PLA only.

However from what I understand having a heated build plate still helps with PLA, so I don't know if I would drop that, even if I only ever planned to stick with PLA

[Anonymous No.1377047]

What do people here think of the mk3?
It's a thousand us donero for the fully assembled one and 750 for the kit
looks expensive but I would assume you're paying for something pretty much guaranteed to work and the quality of life features seem pretty nice

[Anonymous No.1377051]

>>1377047
I don't see any reason to get one over the mk2 for a couple hundred less. All their machines are on the pricey side, but work pretty well.
The mk3 has some firmware issues that will get resolved eventually.

If you have the money and a use for the machine, it probably won't let you down.

[Anonymous No.1377058]

Who needs dual extruders when you got hands to hotswap

[Anonymous No.1377059]

>>1377047
Is there much difference between a prusa and a cheaper clone? Aside from some of the components being a bit crappier I don't see much that's worth paying about 800-900 dollars more than for an i3 clone

[Anonymous No.1377099]

>>1377059
>components being a bit crappier

There's a wide spectrum of i3 clones, and the lower the price, the more those components go from "a bit crappier" to "a lot crappier". Plexiglass frames instead of aluminium or steel is one of the more noticeable differences.

[Anonymous No.1377106]

>>1375745
Dude, 7hp is more than enough to mess you up if that thing critically fails. Why risk it when you could make something something equally functional and magnitudes more robust with a welder, grinder and a drill press?

[Anonymous No.1377114]

>>1377047
Very good machine, price is good too for a machine from a professional manufacturer, but the cheap copies kinda ruin it at the same time. If you dont like tinkering for days over the next years or want to print professionally or commericially in smaller scale i would recommend you this machine. If money is short and you dont mind or have fun with tinkering and adding new things, go for one of the chinese ones, but do yourself a flavor and dont pick the cheapest one. To quote a friend who said it as a joke, but it still holds a lot of truth in it
>when i am finally done replacing every single part on my printer, it might become a good machine
You get the drift.

If i would buy a new first printer now it probaly would be a MK3 kit in retroperspective, you learn a lot assembling it and it will run pretty well.

[Anonymous No.1377157]

>>1377009
https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/Installation-on-Android-through-Debian-Kit

298 posted "Issues" though. But if you have some old phone lying around you don't need why not

[Anonymous No.1377228]

Today on "I should have never bought a chinese clone":
>Buy geeeeeeetech i3 for 180$. What a bargain!
>Z-axis really struggles to move at certain points, especially at the bottom
>Only thing that seems to make it work is just taking off the top acrylic pieces holding the lead screws and smooth rods together
>wobbly as fuck but whatever, just want to print something simple and see how bad it is and maybe figure out a solution later
>do some more testing
>Err: MINTEMP
>check forums
>no solution
JUST

[Anonymous No.1377241]

>>1377228
>Err: MINTEMP
check the resistance of the temperature sensors, you normally get this error when their cable breaks or they are not connected properly

[Anonymous No.1377248]

>>1377241
Checked. They're at 87k and 93k ohm, while at room temperature. I read that normally they're rated for 100k and that the resistance measured should be way higher for it to be an open circuit.

I have reset the printer now and switched the two thermistor connectors (hot bed thermistor --> extruder connector and viceversa) and it hasn't given me an error in 5 minutes, which is an improvement. Temperatures measured are wrong of course, so I'd have to switch the thermistors' actual positions...

[Anonymous No.1377299]

>>1377248
Ok well it seems that the issue was repetier complaining that I was using the 3d printer (just the xyz steppers) without heating the bed and extruder. I did more testing with the heating on and I stopped getting that MINTEMP bullshit. Hopefully it won't come back to haunt me.

I also had to fix the extruder a bit because it wasn't pushing the filament through, so I increased the extruder temperature to 210C and driver voltage to 1.170V (there's a fan blowing air in the direction of the motor so I'm hoping it'll be fine. The motor doesn't feel hot for now, we'll see during a long print (if we ever get there...).

The z-axis is still not solved though, and I have no idea what I'm going to do about it yet. It wobbles like a drunken seesaw so it'll probably fuck up any print I try, though maybe if it only moves up a few tens of micrometers at a time...

[Anonymous No.1377301]

>>1377299
I've seen z axis fixes, basically you add a bar that reaches from the top crossing to the bottom and it grants some stability.

I've seen it done a lot to the wanhao clones

[Anonymous No.1377316]

>>1377228
>thinking the bullshit will stop there
it will continue far further than you would hope.

i suppose ill answer your future questions:

the Z-axis (two motors) is controlled by one stepper driver, you'll need to increase the voltage.

yes, you'll need to lube everything. I like superlube.

z-wobble is probably less likely the bent rods, and more likely the shitty spring couplers. Its harder for them to provide leniency when they're close to z0. (not to mention, if you look closely, they're fucking eccentric as fuck, causing the binding)

if you're having extrusion issues, and the idler is made of plastic, make sure its not cracked. If it's the extruder i think it is, you shouldn't have s/mm greater than 100, or more than +10 of the default; if so, somethings wrong.

get the updated firmware eventually.

don't bother using the printer at all, if you can't resolve the mintemp error, don't disable the warning either. Don't bother trying to print until temps are correct.

tightening the x-axis belt will squeeze the two z-axis rods together, so, move some of the shit lock-rings to the inside, from the outside, if they aren't already there, to prevent it.

if you're using their shitty GT2560, its basically just a ramps 1.4, and uses marlin.

save this message, you may need it.

[Anonymous No.1377385]

>>1377301
Yeah i think i've seen this somewhere before, will have a closer look

>>1377316
>the Z-axis (two motors) is controlled by one stepper driver, you'll need to increase the voltage.
Yep done. It's now at 1.0something V, should I go even higher? Max is 1.2V right?

>yes, you'll need to lube everything. I like superlube.
it's on my todo list. Solid or liquid? Does it matter?

>don't bother using the printer at all, if you can't resolve the mintemp error, don't disable the warning either. Don't bother trying to print until temps are correct.
The temperatures are correct, when I heated the bed and the extruder to 55 and 210 respectively it showed the right temperatures. I think the problem is just that the software thinks that if those temperatures aren't increasing after a while that the printer has been running then something must have gone wrong. I saw on the prusa website that it said the mk3 adds a new thermistor over the electronics to prevent MINTEMP errors in cold rooms, and I think that's the same problem I'm having.

>if you're using their shitty GT2560, its basically just a ramps 1.4, and uses marlin.
Is that the firmware? What should I use instead?


The rest is stuff I've already done or noticed. Thanks for the help guys!

[Anonymous No.1377417]

>>1377047
From the little I've read on the official forums all the issues are coming from early/prebuilt models.

The removable spring steel is also pretty damn nice. I'd think it would last near forever since there is no need for scraping it with a spatula.

[Anonymous No.1377421]

>>1377385
>lube
this stuff, its liquid, but not super runny.
best thing I've tried so far, of several.
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1525046990&sr=8-18&keywords=superlube&th=1

>ramps 1.4 , GT2560
the board everything is plugged into on typical printers

>marlin
the firmware.

the firmware it comes with is really outdated typically, usually someone on the forums has made an updated version.

marlin, itself, is really great, and the devs are too.

>cold room
How cold, since mine has never triggered in what i consider a cold room, even during snowstorms.
test for it again after a firmware update.

>z-axis
if you get through the next 10 or so prints without binding, with lube, then you're fine.
else, if you're using their spring couplers, try using something else as a coupler.

after that, then consider raising the voltage again. I think mine ended up being 1.1v, but the binding only stopped after lubrication.

>wires
double check that the heater wires are firmly screwed into their terminals, and not loose.

[Anonymous No.1377452]

>been waiting since april 6th for mk2s to ship
when will it be my turn

[Anonymous No.1377575]

>>1377452
My shit shipped in less than a week, and I ordered last month. Already have my mk2s printing right now.
Maybe they ran out?

[Anonymous No.1377630]

>>1377421
>How cold,
15-20C

> GT2560
Yes it looks like this is the board I have. My printer is a geeetech i3 pro B. So should I get the latest firmware from the geeetech forums or straight from the marlin website?

Another thing to fix the z axis: on the forums someone said to lower the z acceleration and jerk settings. Thoughts?

[Anonymous No.1377637]

its posible to make a sexbot with a printer ,i was thinking about using filaflex .

[Anonymous No.1377689]

>>1377630
Well listen, I tried printing something.
>65C bed
>208C extruder
>0.2mm layer height, 0.35mm first layer

[Anonymous No.1377690]

>>1377689
And here's what it should've looked like.
Btw for reference, the dimensions are 5mm height and 10mm between two parallel sides. The "1" feature was 1mm deep.

[Anonymous No.1377693]

>>1377689
Calibrate extruder and steps per mm

[Anonymous No.1377698]

>>1377690
>Calibrate extruder
the feed rate? I'm actually going to have to look up how to do that.

>steps per mm
For which axis? I just measured the print with a caliper and the xy dimension is pretty much perfect, 10mm spot on. The z dimension is 5.4mm, which is wrong, but I actually set the correct(?*) steps/mm just before the print.

For the z axis I actually changed to these lead screws (https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B019ML86X0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)), which according to my calculations would result in 3200steps/mm? 1mm pitch single lead, a4988 drivers, and like those "standard" steppers (200 steps per turn i think)

[Anonymous No.1377700]

>>1377698
meant for >>1377693 of course

[Anonymous No.1377705]

>>1377689

You need to:

- Level your bed with the paper method, the nozzle seems a little too high because i'm not seeing proper squishing/flattening of the first layer
- Calibrate your extruder's steps/mm using Triffid's guide on the RepRap wiki. This is to make sure your extruder is pushing exactly as much plastic as it needs to. Also make sure the nozzle diameter in your slicer matches the one you have
- When you start getting more normal prints, print a Z-axis decoupler to get rid of the Z-banding
- If you're printing PLA: enable the cooling fan, if its ABS: turn it off

[Anonymous No.1377707]

>>1377705
>Level your bed with the paper method,
I did that, but maybe I can just lower the screw that touches the z-axis end switch. I think I kept the nozzle higher rather than lower because I was afraid I might get the extruder clogged.

>Calibrate your extruder's steps/mm
Will do. Nozzle diameter is already done.

>enable the cooling fan
Is that the one right in front of the extruder motor? I've also read that it's a good idea to place another fan pointing at the extruder nozzle to help with overhangs.

Thanks for the tips

[Anonymous No.1377711]

>>1377707

- Cooling fan is the one blowing right at the nozzle, Hotend fan is the one blowing at the hotend's heatsink, if it's a metal hotend. (They don't really make PEEK hotends anymore). If there isn't one you'll have to buy and add one. Might help if you point a house fan towards the printer in the meantime...
- If it's too low the extruder motor will start skipping steps and you should be able to shut it off quickly.
- Be aware that when you change settings such as steps/mm they need to be saved in EEPROM, otherwise they will be lost when you power the machine down.
- It would be beneficial to start reading up on how to configure, compile and upload Marlin with the Arduino IDE. You will be able to install newer versions and have the right settings compiled in the firmware itself instead of using the EEPROM with a mystery chinese version.

[Anonymous No.1377746]

>>1377637
We wouldnt know.

[Anonymous No.1377749]

>>1377637
strap a fleshlight to your heated bed , set it to body temperatur and run a gcode file that moves it back and forth for several minutes

[Anonymous No.1377774]

>>1377749
Did you just assume xhes gender and sexual preference?

[Anonymous No.1377790]

>all these people having problems with their chinkshit
>i've got the cheapest of the cheap, a $120 printer and i've managed to make it run pretty much the best it can withing the inherent limitations of its linear motion system
Methinks ya'll boys don't know how to tinker with this chink shit, should have just bought Prusa if you can't handle an issue or a dozen.

[Anonymous No.1377800]

>>1377790
You want a medal or something?

[Anonymous No.1377806]

>>1377800
If possible, yes.

[Anonymous No.1377812]

>>1377806
Print it yourself then.

[Anonymous No.1377813]

>>1377812
top kek

[Anonymous No.1377819]

>>1377812
But filament is so expensive ( . ´ 艸｀)

[Anonymous No.1377890]

>>1377637
you could, depending on which axis move what, most printers you would only get a 2 axis sexrobot, with either XY, XZ, YZ, ect
a very unsophisticated sexbot in my humble opinion

[Anonymous No.1378042]

With 6 printers running in one closet I'm going to have to find another electrical circuit to run an extension from so I can put a standing AC unit in there before summer starts. The printers are currently off the bathroom circuit because the adjacent office already has enough demand on it that a plug-in heater or AC unit might trip the breaker. But maybe the AC won't get taxed much considering it will only have to keep 75 square feet below 75F.

[Anonymous No.1378202]

>>1378042
I'd actually expect the prints to turn out better in a warm environment.

[Anonymous No.1378213]

>>1378202
If it's ABS, sure, it will reduce warp a bit but with plastics like pla or petg, you may loose in print quality

[Anonymous No.1378240]

>>1378202
I'm more concerned about killing the print servers, power supplies, and control boards than I am with print quality. The closet got really stuffy at the end of winter, and I'm not sure how stuffy it will get in summer. I may be able to get away with just installing a louvered vent in the door. We'll see.

[Anonymous No.1378249]

>>1378042
Why dont you cut the end of the screws and just print some nice hats for them and glue them in place?

[Anonymous No.1378279]

>>1377790
i got a friend who talks like this
at the same time his print look like rotten fruits

[Anonymous No.1378393]

[Anonymous No.1378449]

>>1378393
It's like the 3d printing version of the gimp meme where you try to save an impossibly massive image

[Anonymous No.1378464]

>>1378393
>generate support unchecked
you need support for this kind of prints, newbie.

[Anonymous No.1378514]

>>1378393
34 rolls of filament.
Yep, it's fine.

[Anonymous No.1378543]

>>1378393
At least make it for dual extrusion. What's the point of buying dual extrusion printer if you are not using it?

[Anonymous No.1378552]

Does anyone know any EU stores that sells 300mm x300mm silicone heater pad for 220V (better would be 240V, I guess), at least 750W???
It can also be chinese store, the point is that delivery wouldn't take more than two weeks (one week would be even better). I do not have time for 1 to 2 months standard chinese delivery with possible no-show. And with reasonable shipping costs, not like $100, as I saw it on ebay.
Pic related, but it does not have to be keenovo brand.

[Anonymous No.1378556]

>>1378552
https://www.reprap.me/220v-30x30cm-750w-waterproof-thermistor-silicone-heater-heating-pad-for-3d-printer-heated-bed.html
There you go.

[Anonymous No.1378559]

>>1378556
Thanks ,but when I add it into a cart it says this: >Expect longer delivery time for this product, as it will either be shipped directly from supplier or if it needs assembly
So, I guess they are shipping from china.

[Anonymous No.1378606]

>>1374803
what is the difference between a prusa i3 MK2 and MK3+?
is the controller board located in/behind the lcd or in the box opposite side to the power supply?

also, can i buy a replacement board/controller/lcd thing somewhere or should i just build one (cheap?)?
>pic related
>it's what im missing

[Anonymous No.1378642]

>>1378249
Because acorn nuts exist and I ship them with the finished product.

[Anonymous No.1378690]

Is the Lulzbot mini worth it?

[Anonymous No.1378696]

>>1378240
Those look like some cozy-ass printers, hanging out in a closet with their buds

[Anonymous No.1378706]

Anybody knows a good design for a prostate massager?

I wanna try something that hits the fun spot with a vibration motor from an old dead cellphone.

I already tried making something like a mini banana shape with a game controller motor but it doesnt really hit there.

[Anonymous No.1378713]

>>1378706
Copy a premade toy
Also pressure > vibration. Dont bother, seriously

[Anonymous No.1378790]

>>1378690
>Is the Lulzbot mini worth it?
As the owner of 6 of them...

Yes and no. If I didn't have slightly unique constraints with my production situation I could have gone with a farm of Prusa i3 mk2s instead and had more of those. But I went with the lulzbots for a variety of smaller reasons that may not apply to you.

1. The minis are easier to move around whole because of the frame design. I was initially moving the first one to-and-from my dayjob regularly.
2. The nozzle wiping feature is pretty handy when you're trying to do 4 or 5 print change-outs per day.
3. I can buy another lulzbot mini and get it within one or two days if I have to.
4. Being able to use 3mm or 1.75mm filament is convenient.

My oldest one has over 5,000 printing hours on it since I bought it last year. And out of all 6 printers I've only had two parts break. One breakage was my fault (running 200% overextrusion one accident), the other is the tiny cooling fan on the r1 lulzbot I bought off eBay crapped out.

r1 lulzbots have issues and you can identify them by the bare aluminum buildplate frame and the small centrifugal blower for cooling the hotend. They tend to chew through their heated bed power wires eventually.

[Anonymous No.1378795]

>>1375916
Or you could just up the voltage on the drivers.

[Anonymous No.1379078]

I'm loving the timelapses you can get out of Octolapse

Need to get a better webcam, and play with the settings a bit,

and have prints that don't fail :-/

[Anonymous No.1379083]

What are the best 3d printing youtube channels?

[Anonymous No.1379113]

>>1379083
Richard Horne, Daniel Noree, Michael hackney, broken nerd
Once in a blue moon I'll check out CNC kitchen.

So many have went into the shill life, don't do their own things or turned into giant cock gobbling faggots.

[Anonymous No.1379123]

>>1379113
You. I like you.

[Anonymous No.1379173]

Anyone with SLA.
Say i have a transparent part with a hole drilled in it.
Can i use resin to fill the hole back up and cure the resin with uv? Should i expect shrinkage? Will it it be noticeable?

[Anonymous No.1379257]

>>1377047
I can only comment on the MK1, but
>kit was fun to build
>worked flawlessly since day one
>no complaints, no issues, no breakages
I think it's well worth the price, particularly considering that a lot of people seem to forget some of that money goes toward *research* at the company that designed *that entire line of printers*, i.e. making future printers better

[Anonymous No.1379265]

>>1379173
I don't have SLA, but if your resin doesn't shrink, your "filling" shouldn't shrink either. Might be noticeable since it's not flat, though.

[Anonymous No.1379290]

>>1379173
Not so easy making those keycaps you were going on about is it. And its not as cheap as you thought either is it?

[Anonymous No.1379307]

>>1379290
Wat?

>>1379265
Thanks.
I am more worried about the interface layer on the drilled surface being visible.

[Anonymous No.1379427]

>>1379290
Way to go shitting all over somebody. Why would you gloat if their project doesn't work, seriously?

>>1379307
I don't think it should, but I'd make a small test piece to make sure. Is there any reason you can't include the hole in the initial model you print?

[Anonymous No.1379450]

>>1379427
Some people are just dicks i guess.

I want to embed 0402 SMD LEDs in the print, i might be able to include holes but artistic design in a CAD system is pretty difficult. I think it would be way easier just to drill holes and do it on the fly.
I dont own an SLA (yet), i rarely get an opportunity to make prints with oen, thats why i asked first.

[Anonymous No.1379518]

>>1379083
I've found rclifeon and 3d printing nerd entertaining and interesting. I've learned a lot from makers muse

[Anonymous No.1379637]

>>1374803
Hello, I’ve never had a 3D printer before

I was thinking of getting one to print figurines with; Pokemon minifigs, warhammer 40k models, little LEGO pieces for custom sets.

Are these realistic expectations from a home 3D printer?

[Anonymous No.1379660]

>>1379637

Yes - but the Lego might not fit right and the 40k minis will be far from GW quality/detail levels

[Anonymous No.1379671]

>>1379637
Depends entirely on how much you spend

It's way easier to get miniature detail with SLA printers but they cost a good deal more

If you have $15,000 you can get a Fuse 1 and never have problems ever

[Anonymous No.1379742]

>>1379671
You're looking at an entry barrier of ~$1000+, based on current products that are out. There's a couple SLA printers at the 6-800 range I think but I'm not sure. FDM printers generally can't get the resolution you want unless you invest heavily in them, at which point you might as well get an SLA printer.

[Anonymous No.1379884]

>>1379637
Don't bother printing minis with an fdm printer. You need at least an sla or sls printer for that. Unfortunately you won't be getting one near the price of budget fdm printers. And the materials alone for those printers heavily outweigh the cost of fdm filament.

Tech really isn't there yet for affordable home use with wargaming minis. But fdm printers and making cool terrain is definitely there.

Be prepared for this to be a hobby within a hobby though

[Anonymous No.1379925]

Has anyone ever tried making a 3d printer that can hotswap its nozzle between eg. 0.5mm nozzle for large featureless areas of the print and 0.2mm for more delicate areas?
Kind of like a CNC machine that can hotswap its tool depending on the type of cut

[Anonymous No.1379932]

>>1379925
Have you seen the new printer E3D has in the works? It's designed to do exactly that.

[Anonymous No.1379934]

>>1379932
No I haven't. What's it called? I'm having a look on their website but can't seem to find it.

[Anonymous No.1379935]

>>1379932
The E3D tool changer swaps hotends, I think anon meant switching the nozzle only and keeping the heater bloc.
I don't think that's quite possible since the nozzle needs to seal against the heatbreak, and the force required is quite high in today's hotend. I haven't seen any that you think of. Maybe with a ceramic seal like in gaz burners between the hotend and heatbreak. Could be interesting to dive deeper in this way and see what are the issues since I don't think you're the first to think of such a kind of hotend

[Anonymous No.1379938]

>>1379935
Well maybe you don't even need to physically swap the nozzle. After all the important part is the size of the hole itself. If it can be done, a nozzle with a variable geometry (maybe like those fighter jets engine nozzles? https://media.giphy.com/media/EuPmcT4nhtFHG/giphy.gif)) could be a solution? (just add a shitload of moving parts... what could go wrong?)

[Anonymous No.1379947]

>>1379938
What could go wrong indeed.

[Anonymous No.1380028]

>>1379938
I'm not sure Marlin will like this kind of mod, and I suck ass at programing, so no. But hardware, you're totaly right: with a bit a luck, no screw will become undone after the first minute of a print

[Anonymous No.1380088]

Poor fag getting into 3D printing here, got a Geeetech I3 pro 2 coming. How much am I going to hate myself building this thing and getting it calibrated?

[Anonymous No.1380093]

>>1380088
Geeetech I3 pro B owner here, I regret buying it. But maybe I just suck/was particularly unlucky, who knows. Godspeed fellow cheapfag

[Anonymous No.1380097]

>>1380093

There was loads of good reviews for it. But I'm worried that I won't set it up correctly. Also there are some people who talk about getting lemons where certain parts are missing or broken but they're a major minority.

[Anonymous No.1380102]

>>1380097
if you're talking about building it it's not particularly difficult, though the instructions were actually wrong in a couple of steps they also have videos which helped. It's pretty intuitive anyway.
The calibration process is more of a pain in the ass, for me especially because I've never used a 3d printer so I don't know if some things aren't working as well because it's a cheap chinese POS or because I haven't calibrated it enough or because it's just how it is with 3d printing. There are also many variables involved so if you have an experienced friend that can help you out I'd definitely recommend getting their help and buying them a beer afterwards.
Also don't use the 3m of filament they give you. It clogged my nozzle in 1 and a half prints.

I had no missing or broken parts (actually i have a lot of leftover screws and nuts), but the tolerances on the frame were all over the place. The frame is actually bent because the pieces hardly fit together, and the z rods are a mess because the holes don't really align

[Anonymous No.1380106]

>>1380102
I know two furfags on the internet who do 3D printing but they live in America and I live in Blighty.

[Anonymous No.1380142]

>>1380088

see

>>1377228

It's not just about "getting it calibrated", you'll often also need to replace components with quality ones if you want better prints out of the thing.

[Anonymous No.1380144]

How the fucking hell do you get rid of gaps in between the outer wall lines in Cura? Why isn't there a mode where you can have, like 4 walls all along the part, but on the top you have only 1 so that it holds the 4 walls together along the model? I already design my parts with a chamfer in order to deal with this but when people ask me to print a part it's usually something with a flat top so having more walls don't really help make the part any stronger

[Anonymous No.1380162]

>>1380106

I'm a britbong who built and calibrated an even cheaper clone of the geetech i3pro

results out of my machine aren't perfect, but that's mostly down to bent threaded rods on the z-axis. I got some decent lead screws, just need to find the motivation to fit them

i'm happy to assist if you want fellow britprinter

[Anonymous No.1380266]

>>1380144
what do you mean? please post pictures of your problem.

[Anonymous No.1380339]

>>1380144
Doesn't cura have a gradual infill setting? like as the print gets near the top, the infill pattern gets smaller and smaller

[Anonymous No.1380442]

>>1377047
I went from Makerfarm Prusa i3v 12" to Prusa i3 MK3 and wowsers the MK3 is a blast to use. No more worrying about bed leveling, you just hit print and it's away. Also man is the thing quiet

[Anonymous No.1380491]

>>1380442
Makes me really jelly

>>1380266
When you print something it has outer walls, doesn't it? The inner walls are the ones that connect to the infill and the outer ones are the ones closer to the skin. There is a small gap in between the walls, so it's not as solid as it should be, even though layer adhesion is good.

[Anonymous No.1380494]

I finally got a 0.8mm nozzle for my MP Select Mini V2. Honestly my favorite upgrade I've done to it. printing HELLA fast now. Almost makes me forget that it's a cheap piece of trash lmao.

[Anonymous No.1380496]

>>1380494
>finish a layer
>starts printing the second layer and the layer below it is still soft
>print ends up looking like garbage
This is my experience with 0.8mm nozzle

[Anonymous No.1380503]

>>1380442
I heard people were having some trouble getting accurate and repeatable printing with them. How are your prints? Really want to get one of these.

[Anonymous No.1380535]

I bought a Chinese Prusa clone and got it running, made some decent test cubes and a benchy so far. One issue I've had is that I get a regular "ridge" in the Y dimension, and I've figured out why, the Z axis threaded rods slightly shift around as the bar is raised, and the x axis carriage with the extruder on it tilts forward a fraction of a mm at a certain degree of the threaded rod. I figure this might be because the threaded rod is connected to the Z axis steppers with a rubber hose. I've got it on as tightly as it goes, but it hasn't really improved. Do you reckon I might see better accuracy if I replace the rubber hose with a solid bushing, like the Geeetech Prusa clones use?

[Anonymous No.1380544]

>>1380496
>not printing a cooling fan assembly

[Anonymous No.1380551]

>>1380535
that sounds like a fun project for a machine shop

[Anonymous No.1380553]

>>1380551
>drilling one 8mm hole and one 5mm hole that meet in the middle, and then two 3mm holes in the sides that go in to meet them
>"machine shop work"
It's like you don't even have a garage with some tools in it, anon.

[Anonymous No.1380555]

>>1380553
Is that even a precision thread fit?

You could do a split nut design to eliminate backlash too.

[Anonymous No.1380556]

>>1380553
>>1380555
plus it's not even a fucking acme thread motion transmission screw, it's just some chinese V thread shit

[Anonymous No.1380560]

>>1380535
Shouldn't the polished chrome rod there be what guides the axis instead of the shitty screw?

Might just be a fucked up part of the screw doing it.

[Anonymous No.1380561]

>>1380535
If you can get the rod straight then i would suggest a solid bushing

[Anonymous No.1380644]

>>1380544
>get only shit quality prints
>do all kinds of tweaking and calibrating
>give up
>print a cooling fan
>suddenly top quality prints

[Anonymous No.1380658]

I'm looking to buy a cheap chinkshit printer to get started. I've kinda narrowed it down to either the Anet A8 or the Geeetech i3 pro w.

The geeetech is currently a bit cheaper than the anet, and easier for me to get, but reading through the thread it sounds like I'd be better off with the a8?

Any advice would be great, also if anyone could point me to where I could get an A8 in yurop without having to navigate the sea of chink scammers on amazon/ebay I'd appreciate it.

[Anonymous No.1380668]

>>1380658
Look at the CTC DIY Pro B. It's a plywood Prusa clone, but it's very easy to assemble and get calibrated. Mine printed well pretty much straight away, all you need to mod it to get good quality prints is a fan like >>1380544, which you can easily print right away. https://spiritdude.wordpress.com/2018/03/26/ctc-diy-prusa-i3-ctc-diy-i3-pro-b-most-affordable-3d-printer-2018/

[Anonymous No.1380681]

>>1380668
Alright anon, you sold me on that.

Now to wait 2 weeks for delivery.
Should probably start shopping around for filaments I guess.

[Anonymous No.1380685]

>>1380681
Best of luck with it! You do get three small rolls of filament with the printer, probably around a third of a kilo total, so you can wait a bit with buying more if you want to research good brands or something. Do note that the instructions you get with the printer are useless, follow the instructions on the blog I linked instead.

[Anonymous No.1380693]

>>1380658
as someone who has successfully calibrated and is using a geeetech printer (i3 pro b), ill say this.
Buy literally anything else.

>>1380535
you can always buy a proper Z leadscrew, instead of the shitty threaded rods they give you. Probs no more than 26$.

spring connectors are garbage, rigid aluminum ones are nice and improve print quality, as long as the drive rod/screw you're using is straight.

do you really mean Y-dimension? Z is up.
Z-wobble is along Z.
If it was actually along the y-axis, its likely from the stepper drivers.

I'll say this, the quality of any individual axis is limited by the worst part.
Dropping an extra 50 bucks on well thought out part decisions really makes a difference in print quality for chink printers, with minimal effort. But, only expect so much.

[Anonymous No.1380702]

>>1374803
I picked up a roll of toule today 6 inches by 25 yards $0.98. What should I print it into?

[Anonymous No.1380703]

>>1380658
I have a monoprice select mini and couldn't be happier with it. It's hard to beat for the money.

[Anonymous No.1380705]

>>1380693
I do mean Z dimension. It's a Prusa i3 style build, it has the extruder and x carriage mounted on threaded rods driven by the two z steppers. My issue is that the threaded rods shift at the top about a millimetre back and forth as the threaded rods rotate, and this thus shifts the extruder back and forth a fraction of a millimetre, getting worse as it ascends. Thus a problem with my Z axis doesn't equal a problem in Z axis accuracy, but does affect the accuracy of my Y axis.
I wrote a G code program to just raise and lower the extruder over and over, and looking at it go I can clearly see that this is what the issue is, the extruder shifts back and forth a little bit. I've tinkered with the acceleration values and belt tensioning and I really don't think the print table (Y axis) is where the problem is.

[Anonymous No.1380726]

>>1380705
yes, that's Z-wobble. It causes layer shifting of XY in a sinusoidal fashion, as a function of Z, and can affect both X and Y.
It is a tooling/part issue, and not a software issue.

It's solely a Z-axis precision issue.

Fixing it comes down to identifying the source of the problem which usually can only be the z screw or whatever joins the screw to the stepper.

remove the threaded rods, and see if they roll properly on a flat surface, if they do so perfectly, then the couplers are absolutely the cause.

If they're both trash, you'll have to print a z-axis "decoupler", or replace them.

[Anonymous No.1380736]

>>1380705
My chinkshit had that problem too, all I did to fix it was print a bracket out that is exactly 8.002 mm wide at the edges. Holds the top of the rod snugly in place, and no more wobble.

[Anonymous No.1380739]

Just found that some SLA printers are pretty affordable. Micromake is around 500USD
Any experience you guys have with these cheap ones, pros/cons? (other than the obvious technology related ones)

[Anonymous No.1380743]

Just found that some SLA printers are pretty affordable. Micromake L2 is around 500USD
Any experience you guys have with these cheap ones, pros/cons? (other than the obvious technology related ones)

[Anonymous No.1380744]

>>1380681
Order a pair of 40mm fans too. It comes with a fan attached to the extruder, but you'll also want one for your print cooling mod and one to cool the circuitboard.

[Anonymous No.1380755]

>>1380736
You shouldn't do that. If the rod is loose at the top the wobbliness will simply dissipate as wobbliness, the carriage is supposed to be guided by the smooth rods, which are firmly mounted on Prusas. If you constrain the thread rod like you did, the stress is instead transferred into the nut, and thus into the X carriage, which can cause it to crack. The injection molded stuff you get from China can usually take it, but if you ever replace them with printed parts odds are they'll crack.
As it turns out I can buy a pair of lead screws, shaft couplings and anti-backlash nuts locally for just ten bucks, so I'll try that first.

[Anonymous No.1380758]

Should I print a filament spool holder that mounts on top of my Prusa frame, or are they just a meme?

[Anonymous No.1380788]

>>1380503
So far so good. I only ran a few automated calibrations (PID & bed level/z-offset), and have not done any x/y/z calibration prints.

But I did re-print some PCB holders, as the old ones (printed with Prusa i3v) were out enough to cause the PCB to bow when secured to the body. After reprinting them with MK3 they no longer bow and the part dimensions seems to be pretty good for a printer that has not run through full calibration yet

[Anonymous No.1380816]

>>1380788
>lambdantalife
What is that supposed to be read as? It can't be what I wrote.

[Anonymous No.1380826]

>>1380816
ANTALIFE kek, I use λ as an A
You can blame Half-Life for that

[Anonymous No.1380831]

>>1380755
hmmmm

how accurate is the shafting they use on those? the guide rods for large dies in metal stamping are pretty damn accurate if you end up needing better than the 0.001" standard chrome rod gives.

something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Danly-Press-Fit-Ball-Bearing-Guide-5-1240-5-Post-1-500X10-00-LG-Commrcl-New/302676158069

You might need a traveling squareness comparator to install it properly too, assuming it's supposed to be square to whatever base you have.

or just take a few measurements in places along the travel

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pY3TNiabb3A

[Anonymous No.1380833]

>>1380826
I can't think of anything clever to say but we seem to have similar interests so just accept the invite. Damn. I really wanted to put something witty here.

[Anonymous No.1380837]

>>1380831
cancel that, the danly pin linked is a commercial instead of precision

http://www.daytonlamina.com/sites/default/files/doc/DanlyIEM-Pins-Bushings-Inch.pdf

[Anonymous No.1380942]

>>1380702
Print it into a roll of toule 25 yards by 6 inches

[Anonymous No.1381033]

Anyone know why my prints are coming out horribly? The dimensional accuracy is on point, and the bed seems to be level, however when the printer is printing *flat* segments, the result looks like complete shit, and you can see "beads" of the filament on the parts.

When the next layer goes on top of it, you can hear the print head hitting these beads and it causes further inaccuracies. I used to get perfectly smooth prints on a face mask I printed almost a year ago with the exact same spool of filament and printer.

[Anonymous No.1381036]

>>1381033
Bottom layer looks like complete shit too.

[Anonymous No.1381037]

>>1381036
However, if I print at any sort of angle, or incline, my god it is the smoothest thing ever!

[Anonymous No.1381039]

>>1381037
Your extruder is dragging across the print. See if your slicer has a "Z retract" or "Z hop" feature, to temporarily raise the head while moving across the print.

[Anonymous No.1381042]

>>1381033
>>1381039

Why are you calling it "complete shit", looks good to me... You just need to add some Z-hop distance like >>1381039 said. What machine is that?

[Anonymous No.1381043]

>>1381039
Not necessarily - at least that's not the issue I am trying to solve. It is when the next layer comes around, but not during that layer. This is a continuous layer / travel. There are only a few points where Z hop would even be applied - and that's not where the buildup occurs. Moot point, I guess, as it is already on with a distance of .5 mm.

Here is the path for the layer seen on the lower part in >>1381036

[Anonymous No.1381048]

>>1381042
Relatively speaking. Here is another print last year with a HUGE flat surface area. I dont see a single "bead" of plastic on this model like I do with the ones I just printed today.

Look at the flat surface on this model. and compare it to the top of >>1381036
Its night and day difference between what I was getting before.

And it is a Hictop CR-20.

[Anonymous No.1381059]

>>1381048

What are you calling "beads"? The points where the hotend does a sharp turn because the line ends? If so, that always happens, and if your flat area has a lot of different holes in the middle of it, you're gonna get those.

I gotta say though, the pattern that cura is doing is rather strange. In slic3r you get even 45degree lines so the "beads" are concentrated around the perimeters instead (pic). Maybe it's some kind of setting in cura?

[Anonymous No.1381063]

>>1381059
This is what I mean when I say "beads". Buildup when the extruder shifts directions. Its creating an uneven surface, and when the next layer tries to put more plastic on top of it, the extruder hits the model. This is why it appears to be a Z-Hop issue, when in reality it isnt.... that plastic shouldnt be there in the first place.

[Anonymous No.1381064]

>>1381063
I really wish my lighting was a bit better so you could see more clearer images, but thats unfortunately the best its gonna get.

[Anonymous No.1381067]

>>1381063
>>1381064

No i got it, and i guessed right in my reply (>>1381059) - the bottom/top fill pattern is introducing them. Switch it to "lines" instead of "concentric".

[Anonymous No.1381071]

>>1381067

Also, you might want to enable ironing:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CzW45MphcK4

[Anonymous No.1381073]

>>1381067
Ahah! Had to do a bit of digging. That setting was hidden for me. You are correct. It was set to Concentric. Ill give that a shot. Thank you.

>>1381071
Awesome. Ill give that a try too. Thanks!

[Anonymous No.1381078]

I'm upgrading to a heated bed, going for the typical setup of a heated aluminium plate with a pane of borosilicate glass on top, held in place with binder clamps.
Should I put something in between the aluminium and the glass to prevent scratching/expansion damage?

[Anonymous No.1381081]

>>1380831
>>1380837
doesnt matter, these arent really suitable for 3dp or linear motion in general
, these are supopossed to be pressfit precision, their size to travel distance is not going to be long enough without being huge, and the pins are supposed to move instead of the bushings
, they are non recirculating, so their distance is is half of their length roughly , example, my 8mm ballcages have a 24mm long bushing and have max travel of 12.5mm
, the gold ones have 50mm of travel

[Anonymous No.1381084]

>>1381078
I've been something like this since 2012. No need to put anything in between.

[Anonymous No.1381090]

>>1381067
You're a godsend, my friend! Thanks! Looks great now.

[Anonymous No.1381093]

>>1381090

Yay, i helped

[Anonymous No.1381130]

/3dpg/, in your opinion is PLA better on glass or on aluminium?

[Anonymous No.1381134]

MK3 finally arrived, 2 months after ordering. Pleasantly surprised that it worked no problems after I built it.

Any recommended MK3 quality of life upgrades/mods/etc.?

[Anonymous No.1381138]

>>1381134
What is that funky little tank mars rover?

[Anonymous No.1381139]

>>1381130
Neither. Painters Tape.

[Anonymous No.1381140]

>>1381138
Got it from Banggood (frame+motors+tracks), added an Arduino + Adafruit motor shield, a FrSky receiver & a 5.8GHz FPV camera.

[Anonymous No.1381141]

>>1381140
It's cute. Is that small thing on the frame a RC plane camera?

[Anonymous No.1381142]

>>1381134
can you see your computer screen like that?

[Anonymous No.1381144]

>>1381141
Yes, combined CMOS camera + 5.8GHz video transmitter.

>>1381142
Haven't used that screen in weeks.

[Anonymous No.1381146]

Is a heated need necessary for pla prints? I hear no, but I also hear it definitely helps to keep the prints stuck to the plate.

Note I'm not asking for abs, just pla

[Anonymous No.1381147]

>>1381146
I meant heated build plate

Dang phoneposting

[Anonymous No.1381148]

>>1381146
Ive tried with, and without, but noticed no difference in print quality. On that fact, I can say it certainly is not required to get good prints. It does make it easier to stick to the build plate though.

[Anonymous No.1381152]

>>1381134
>Prusa

[Anonymous No.1381155]

Has anyone made a DLP printer with one of those "true" 4k home projectors? They're starting to pop up at $1500 to $2000 and have 4x the resolution of 1080p

[Anonymous No.1381157]

>>1381093
Print with new settings just finished. Once again want to say thanks man. You can really tell the difference between what I was getting before, and after that stupid pattern change.

For anyone thats curious as to what Im printing for a friend of mine:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2893316

[Anonymous No.1381159]

>>1381155
Nope only 1080p but I don't see why one would need higher resolution.

[Anonymous No.1381160]

When my printer does a Z-hop while laying down the base layer, the extruder rips the plastic off of the surface. Do I need to raise the temperature? I'm printing PLA I got from the supermarket at 200 degrees.

[Anonymous No.1381162]

>>1381148
That's all I expect for it. To help the prints stick to the plate. I know the heated plate will have no effect on the print quality.

[Anonymous No.1381163]

>>1381159
>I don't see why one would need higher resolution.
To get high-end injection mold quality?

[Anonymous No.1381164]

>>1381162
Well from what I was told, it is *supposed* to help with warping of corners and such, as well as gradual contraction of the printed part to reduce the possibility of misalignment, but I haven't had that happen to me.

[Anonymous No.1381171]

>>1381163
It won't increase your Z-resolution

[Anonymous No.1381175]

I've seen guys mod their printers to have fan housings that blow directly on the print head. How is that important? And is it necessary for PLA, or is it just an ABS thing?

[Anonymous No.1381177]

>>1381171
Isn't Z-resolution on DLPs already like 10 micron? IIRC the littlerp2 with a 1080p project had a xy of like 25-40micron and still blurred on the edges because of how projectors work. 4k would bring it down to 6.25 to 10micron

[Anonymous No.1381180]

>>1381175
It isn't that they blow on the print head, it's that they blow on the plastic as it gets extruded. It prevents the print from overheating, and can help your prints keep their shapes better. On chink prusas, they're usually the single best improvement you can get.

[Anonymous No.1381183]

>>1381177
I wouldn't want to wait for a 10u/layer print to finish

[Anonymous No.1381198]

>>1381180
Is that for pla as well?

[Anonymous No.1381207]

>>1381198
It's only for PLA. ABS will contract when you cool it, so ideally you'd keep the entire print hot until you're done, that's what the enclosure is for. Decent PLA doesn't shrink nearly as much, so the warping from cooling down is significantly smaller than the benefit in accuracy from not overheating.

[Anonymous No.1381209]

>>1381207
Ah ok that makes sense.

About the enclosure, I want to make an acrylic enclosure for my printer, not for heat management because I wont be doing ABS, but mostly to protect the printer from dust and stuff and keep it clean. This will likely mean that it will get warm in there for the printer, but will that negatively affect PLA prints?

[Anonymous No.1381212]

>>1381209
Why not just take the printer out of the enclosure when you print PLA?

[Anonymous No.1381215]

>>1381157

Np, the top pattern looked very different from what i'm used to on Slic3r. Did you try the ironing thing? I'm curious to see if it really works as advertised.

[Anonymous No.1381216]

>>1381177

Yeah DLP projector printers sound good on paper but i imagine focusing is a pain in the ass, like you might need a microscope to focus the XY just right for 25-40 microns. Meanwhile with a current-gen LCD-SLA you get an always in-focus 70micron accuracy, with it potentially going down as low as 30micron if you use a 4K 5.5'' display.

[Anonymous No.1381224]

>>1381212
Well yeah i could, but I just want to know if the ambient heat will have a negative effect on PLA prints. Because if not, then I wont need to remove it from the enclosure.

[Anonymous No.1381229]

>>1381224
Well, it might. PLA you'll want to cool down, because it deforms even at relatively low temperatures. There's a reason chink prusa clones produce decent PLA prints out of the box, without any enclosures. Enclosures are more of a ABS thing. If you're worried about dust, you'd be better off just covering the printer up with a plastic shopping bag whenever it isn't in use, and getting a microfiber dusting cloth to clean it out regularly. Also, print a "filament cleaner" and put some foam in it. That'll keep any dust from entering your extruder.
PLA doesn't like ambient heat, if the enclosure you build isn't well ventilated you're probably going to see some degree of poorer quality, but I couldn't tell you just how much since I don't know how much waste heat your printer produces, or how well your enclosure would keep that heat in.

[Anonymous No.1381234]

>>1381209
If you're not doing ABS you don't need an enclosure. You do need a part cooling fan if you plan to do PLA.

[Anonymous No.1381238]

>>1381229
All interesting points.

I plan on getting a monoprice mp select mini v2. It will have a heated bed to help with my PLA prints sticking. I don't plan on doing ABS, so i know the bed doesnt need to be as hot.

>>1381234
Yeah one of the first things I plan on printing is the fan enclosure

[Anonymous No.1381239]

>>1381238
I've printed PLA for two years on a cold bed now. All you need is a glue stick, go to a supermarket and buy whatever kids glue stick they have for sale. A heated bed is nice for ABS and many of the more unusual plastics, but PLA doesn't need it. Also doesn't need an enclosure. Stick to making yourself a fan enclosure and some spare parts.

[Anonymous No.1381242]

>>1381239
I worry about the gluestick though. Doesnt that create an uneven surface for prints? Gluestick doesnt lay on as a completely smooth thin layer. That could mess with stuff especially after I spent so much effort to make sure it's level.

[Anonymous No.1381248]

>>1381242
What you do is mix it up with water, and spread it on with a brush. It does make the surface uneven, but that's the point. The PLA fits into the gaps and cracks. Once the printing is done the gluestick is water soluble, so you just spray window cleaner on the glass and wipe it clean with some toilet water. I'm not saying add an entire gluestick for each print, you just spread on a very thin layer. The water you mix it with evaporates right away when your bed heats up, so your routine would basically be start heating up, add glue, sit back and enjoy super-adhesive prints.

[Anonymous No.1381259]

>>1381239
>>1381242

Not trying to be a shill or anything, but give Printbite a try, if you have a heated bed. Plastic sticks to it when it's hot, and doesn't when it's cold. You print with it hot, and when the print is done and the bed cools, parts just pop off.

Gluestick was my top choice before i got it, and while it works, cleaning up and re-applying it before every print was a hassle. You could also never get a mirror-smooth surface on the bottom.

[Anonymous No.1381262]

>>1381259
Honestly, just spend a few bucks more on decent PLA in the first place. I print my PLA right onto heated glass and the only times I've had adhesion issues have been because the bed was unleveled. While the heater bed is on the plastic is stuck on tight as shit, and when the bed and plastic cool, it pops right off. Quite the loud pop even.

[Anonymous No.1381265]

>>1381262

Never had such luck, but also i've been printing more with PETG lately. Main issue i had with PETG was that when it stuck, it stuck really well and my glass quickly turned into a lunar surface from all the chunks that got bitten off.

[Anonymous No.1381267]

>>1381265
And this, ladies, is why I use blue tape even when printing ABS. Having that bit of paper as extra protection for the glass is good for my calm mind.

[Anonymous No.1381274]

>>1381234
>You do need a part cooling fan if you plan to do PLA
It seems that this is a well-known fact which is almost always discussed even in "getting started" discussions. Why do so many kits ship without this fan?

[Anonymous No.1381279]

>>1381274
I really don't know. A print cooling fan takes your quality from "Eh, that's about what I expected from a Chinese kit printer" to "Woah, this is really nice!".

[Anonymous No.1381425]

Cooling fan on enclosed ABS prints, yes or no?

[Anonymous No.1381444]

Ok /3dpg/bros, I am debating on the type of fan shroud i want to print for my mp select mini v2

What design would you go with?
a)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2448223
b)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2776707
c)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2429054

[Anonymous No.1381543]

>>1381444
I've never had too much luck with circular shrouds; C is out. A & B look more or less the same, so ...?

[Anonymous No.1381570]

>>1381425
see
>>1381207

[Anonymous No.1381578]

I have a cr10, should I replace the part cooling fan or is the stock one good enough?

[Anonymous No.1381579]

>>1381274
No idea. The original Prusas do have it, but none of the copies seem to. The fan really makes all the difference, I print things with my Chinese clone that are every bit as high quality as the ones my classmate with a Prusa Mk2s can make. That fan really is the entire difference in print quality between the originals and the copies. The originals are still better in build quality and quality of life stuff like bed adjustment, but you don't buy a DIY kit for those things in the first place.

[Anonymous No.1381585]

>>1381579
>stuff like bed adjustment
is this also just a matter of buying a $3 sensor? Marlin can support auto bed leveling right?

[Anonymous No.1381588]

>>1381444
C has the wring type of fan for where it's pushing the air. For circular shrouds you need a radial (aka squirrel cage) fan as these can "push" the air much better than axial fans

[Anonymous No.1381661]

Has anyone here tried a hardened steel nozzle? How does it compare to a brass nozzle?

[Anonymous No.1381666]

>>1381661
It's almost the same as steel doesn't conduct heat as well as brass but it's a must for abrasive filaments.

[Anonymous No.1381672]

>>1381585
Yup, and printing a mount for it. My Anet clone even came with a circuit board with a plug for the sensor, and a plug for the print fan. It's ridiculous that these components are not included, they add almost no cost to the manufacturer itself, but significantly raise the printer's value.

[Anonymous No.1381685]

>>1381216
The downside being that the regular polarisers of LCD screens block short wavelengths and thats for the reason that UV degrades LCDs.

[Anonymous No.1381744]

>>1381578
I get good results with the OEM high clearance fang for the shroud.

[Anonymous No.1381775]

>>1381685

I haven't thought about that part, does it degrade the liquid crystal? From what i've read it's not the polarizers, but it's either a special UV-protective film or a coating of the front glass of smartphone screens. I wonder what sort of effect 405nm light for the resin has in particular, as it's technically in the visible spectrum by just a smidgeon and not quite UV-A.

[Anonymous No.1381880]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2798601
how well would these hold up if printed?

I don't have a 3D printer but I keep breaking these god damned things and reliable sellers who won't gouge the fuck out of original parts are unknown to me
I'd rather buy a few dozen on a regular basis than originals which will eventually run out since they don't make G15s anymore

[Anonymous No.1381884]

>>1381880
If you make them out of ABS they should be pretty decent. PLA, I've discovered, creeps over time when subject to a load (or maybe I got unlucky). Those probably cost <$0.10 to make vs replacements which are probably at least $1+S/H so you could just print a shitton and jam them in once a week.

[Anonymous No.1381951]

>>1381880
Quit fucking sleeping on your keyboard.

I've designed and printed my own tabs and printed them out of standard ABS and they've been working fine for over a year.

[Anonymous No.1381956]

Where to get good 6mm wide 2mm pitch timing belts? I need about 6 meters of it and I don't want to pay the manufacturer of my printer $40 for simple rubber belts.

[Anonymous No.1381972]

>>1374859
I finally got my replacement LCD screen, swapped parts and plugged everything in

printer machine still broke
holy shit

Coming up on a month of having this big-ass brick on my desk and blogposting about it instead of posting cool prints

[Anonymous No.1382071]

>>1381160
gluestick on bed mby?

[Anonymous No.1382119]

am I allowed to ask for buyer advice or will all of you guys just tell me to look at the sticky. I already did and it didn't help much

[Anonymous No.1382141]

>>1381956
Ebay

10m + 10 pullies = $24.50
>https://www.ebay.com/itm/10m-33ft-2GT-GT2-Timing-Belt-6mm-wide-10X-Pulley-for-3D-printer-CNC-RepRap-etc/322014283214?hash=item4af98c05ce:g:4xsAAOSwqVJayPNT
I've used this seller (zyltech). Limited selection, bit higher priced than others, but reliable.

For cheaper (about $16 for 10m), search "gt2 belt 6mm"
Be wary of misleading seller ratings on ebay. 98% = shit seller. Personally, I wouldn't buy from a seller with less than 98.7% or so, if quality matters.

>>1382119
/3dpg/ is helpful.

[Anonymous No.1382142]

>>1382141
Okay! So I've been using my university printers for awhile and I think I'm ready to get my own. Between the tornado the cr10 and the anycubic i3 mega which would the hivemind recommend. I am interested in eventually moving into flexible plastics and I can build an enclosure whichever I do end up getting. I am slightly leaning towards the tornado, it seems like an improved cr10. Would I need to get glass for the bed?

[Anonymous No.1382143]

Any decent chink printers with H-bot or corexy kinematics? I've got a budget up to $1500 so I want it to be decent out of the box, minimal amount of tinkering and ability to print stuff like nylon. The reason for it to be chinese is it's much easier to get in my country while not being overpriced to shit.

[Anonymous No.1382212]

>>1381775
According to my testing (ripping apart some small LCDs and shining trough the individual layers with a 40W 380nm LED onto paper with UV marker on it) the polarizers always blocked the majority of the UV light. They seem to integrate that UV-blocking function into the Polarizers probably to stop degrading of the liquid crystal. I don't know if UV actually degrades the liquid crystal or how fast but every display I tested had UV-blocking polarizers.
There are daylight curing resins which don't need high wavelengths to cure and so far any LCD based SLA I looked at used such resins only.

[Anonymous No.1382215]

>>1382143
When I was looking for such a machine the most promising one I found was the craftbot+. Take that with a grain of salt though as I never even saw one in person.

[Anonymous No.1382219]

>>1381775
According to my testing (ripping apart some small LCDs and shining trough the individual layers with a 40W 380nm LED onto paper with UV marker on it) the polarizers always blocked the majority of the UV light. They seem to integrate that UV-blocking function into the Polarizers probably to stop degrading of the liquid crystal. I don't know if UV actually degrades the liquid crystal or how fast but every display I tested had UV-blocking polarizers.
There are daylight curing resins which don't need short wavelengths to cure and so far any LCD based SLA I looked at used such resins only.

[Anonymous No.1382232]

>>1382219

What about 405nm? Like i mentioned before that's *technically* in the visible spectrum and would be considered just violet. The Wanhao D7 uses 405nm which is probably no coincidence. I doubt they do anything special with their screens apart from removing the backlight.

So i guess there's not much of a downside, as long as 405nm resin remains as affordable as any of the other types. Curing times are probably slower but on the other hand you flash the whole layer at once instead of waiting for a laser to trace all of it.

[Anonymous No.1382236]

>>1382232
I don't have a 405nm LED. Though as LEDs are only sorta monochromatic there should be some ~400nm in there as I can still see it as feint blue. The UV marker I used remained unresponsive though. I'd recomend doing your own testing before spending to much on it.

[Anonymous No.1382253]

My print bed is higher in the centre than it is at the edges. What can I do?

[Anonymous No.1382268]

>>1382253
It's warped. Use a glass bed

[Anonymous No.1382269]

>>1382253
Flip it so it is saggy, then use wedges/spacers to lift the center until its in level.

[Anonymous No.1382273]

>>1382268
It is a glass bed.

[Anonymous No.1382448]

>>1381140
Mount a little claw on front so it can pick things up.

[Anonymous No.1382450]

>>1381209
What I'd do is go to IKEA and buy one of those huge blue bags, then just put that over my printer when I'm not using it. Just wash the bag out regularly, it's machine washable with your clothes.

[Anonymous No.1382453]

>>1381209
Cardboard box works for the absolute cheapest solution

[Anonymous No.1382469]

So changing linadvance on a CR-10 doesnt make things better.
Wat do?

[Anonymous No.1382472]

So changing linadvance on a CR-10 doesnt make things better.
Wat do?

[Anonymous No.1382611]

>>1382273
Then you need a new glass bed

[Anonymous No.1382620]

>>1382472
k300 is good

[Anonymous No.1382629]

>>1382472
What raver are you doing/looking for here?

[Anonymous No.1382630]

>>1382629
>raver
*exactly

[Anonymous No.1382641]

I use a prusa i3 clone, but I get this loud racketing noise intermittently. I've concluded that it's the filament being fed into the extruder, and then snapping back. This is also probably causing an underextrusion problem I get when the printer prints infill and supports. Would a mk9 extruder fix this? I'm using the mk8 that came with the kit right now. I'm thinking that maybe the spring loaded lever might help the extruder grab onto the filament better.

[Anonymous No.1382646]

>>1382142
i have no experience firsthand with the tornado or cr10, etc, but it'd be best to go glass for the flattest printing surface possible

you can always do a few prints and buy glass later

[Anonymous No.1382650]

>>1382641
Change your driver current or do like i did, print a geared extruder.

[Anonymous No.1382684]

>start building babby's first chinese i3 clone
>get to putting on the first timing belt
>"drill a hole in the belt"
>don't own a drill

I've bought one now but for fuck sake this thing could be almost built by now.

[Anonymous No.1382685]

>>1382684
hammer+pointy thing?

[Anonymous No.1382686]

>>1382685

I don't know where my hammer is either. It's amazing how much shit I can lose in a single room.

Out of interest how does this hole have to function? Do I just have to be able to get a screw through it to clamp the belt onto the belt mount?

[Anonymous No.1382688]

>>1382686
been a while since I built mine but IIRC yeah that's basically it. It's just to stop it from sliding off.

[Anonymous No.1382696]

>>1382684
I just used a fork for mine. One prong on the centre of the belt, and then put it on two cutting boards so that when you hammer the fork in, the prongs pass between the boards.

[Anonymous No.1382697]

>>1382686
>a single room
A studio apartment? Mate, absolutely do not print in a studio apartment. The plastic gives off toxic fumes while it's being printed. If you have no crafts room or such in your building at least put the printer out on your balcony while printing.

[Anonymous No.1382700]

Man, 3D printing is cool. I'd always thought about getting a printer and printing stuff. Little figures and stuff, and painting them. Reading the thread and seeing what you guys have made just makes me want to do it more.
I have no experience in anything like this, is it hard to learn?

[Anonymous No.1382701]

>>1382697

It'll be fine, I've got a respirator.

[Anonymous No.1382704]

>>1382701

Well I call it a respirator, it's a 3M mask with a small filter on the front.

[Anonymous No.1382709]

>>1382697
I print out in the open all the time in my room and auhcdaejkdxxvb shfd

[Anonymous No.1382731]

>>1382709
rip

[Anonymous No.1382770]

>>1382701
>bought a huge Soviet military gas mask with enormous metal canister filter on ebay for a Halloween outfit a few years ago
>suddenly find out maybe I should have been wearing it while I print

[Anonymous No.1382774]

>studio apartment
>print pla for two years
>smells like candy
>print abs once a week ago
>smells like a ww1 trench during a gas attack and a simultaneous outbreak of dysentery
I think it depends on what you print. Abs and pet are probably worse than pla

[Anonymous No.1382781]

I go through 6 to 8 spools a week now. I might need to buy cubbies or racks or something to prevent the inevitable avalanche.

[Anonymous No.1382786]

>>1382781
Now imagine what you could do with all the perfectly fine black abs you're throwing away each empty spool.

[Anonymous No.1382791]

>>1382684
Why the fuck they got you drilling holes in the belts?

[Anonymous No.1382794]

>>1382774
>>1382697
PLA's harmless. It's literally as harmful as cooking with corn oil.

[Anonymous No.1382809]

>>1382794
That's pretty much what I said though? Having smelled abs though, I'm pretty sure that one actually is toxic to some degree.

[Anonymous No.1382815]

>>1382774

>candy
When I first started printing PLA my wife thought I was smoking weed

[Anonymous No.1382818]

>>1382700
Not especially hard, but the learning curve is steep, especially with a cheap printer kit. But once you've got it printing half decently, everything makes sense.

I would recommend a kit, it gives you a better understanding of how the machine works when you come to troubleshoot the inevitable issues.

[Anonymous No.1382823]

>>1382611
For me 530 seems to be the most even, but they all look like the same shit to me.
Ill do finer steps around 300 and see whats up.

>>1382629
Something like pic related.

[Anonymous No.1382833]

>>1382697
False. Only specific plastics can be toxic when heated, and almost none of them are used as 3D filament, such as PVC. You would have to proccess tons of ABS to have a resonable health concern.

[Anonymous No.1382952]

>>1382786
are there yet any affordable options for home recycling+filament extrusion?
You could jerryrig one like I saw some white people do in africa and have a home made grinder and filament extruder but a real engineered solution would probably produce more reliable results

[Anonymous No.1382953]

>>1382833
rabble rabble nanoparticles rabble rabble

[Anonymous No.1383058]

How does wades extruder hold up nowadays?

[Anonymous No.1383068]

I want to add automatic bed leveling to my Chinese prusa, but there isn't enough board memory for that on the stock anet board. Recommend me some good boards.

[Anonymous No.1383074]

/toy/ here. I'm new to all this.
A couple of questions.

If I want to make replacement pieces that will fit tightly, should I go the distance and scan the pieces I'm going to replace and modify the scanned models or just get a digital caliper work from there?
What's the best material to print pieces that will replace injection plastic on a toy?

[Anonymous No.1383094]

>>1383074
ABS is essentially the same plastic already used for toys, though PET offers some benefits if you're willing to put a bit more effort into your setup. 3D scanning something is a bad idea, you'll end up with a point mesh that you can't easily modify in software like Solidworks or Fusion360. You're better off looking at how things are supposed to fit together, measuring everything with your calipers, and making a proper replacement part with your CAD software.

[Anonymous No.1383104]

>>1383094
>ABS is essentially the same plastic already used for toys
Is the result as sturdy as the factory one? I thought the injection process made the plastic tougher.
I was thinking of modeling things on Blender but from how you make no mention of it, I assume is not optimal for this purpose.
Also, I won't be printing this myself but using a service to do so. Didn't meantioned that because that step is a bit too far from where I am.

> PET offers some benefits if you're willing to put a bit more effort into your setup.
Sorry, but what do you mean with working in the setup?

>3D scanning something is a bad idea, you'll end up with a point mesh that you can't easily modify in software like Solidworks or Fusion360. You're better off looking at how things are supposed to fit together, measuring everything with your calipers, and making a proper replacement part with your CAD software.
Okay. I guess I'll look into buying a digital caliper to make things as precise as possible.

[Anonymous No.1383107]

>>1383104
Blender is a superb piece of software for modelling organic shapes or "sculptures" like D&D minimodels. It is far from ideal for engineering, which is where CADs like Solidworks excel. You design individual parts, can fit them together into an assembly, animate them around and such. It's how engineering is done.

PET is a different type of plastic, but it can be a bit more difficult to work with than ABS. If you're using a service it likely isn't going to be an option, but if it is it shouldn't be any more work for you. Printing services default to PLA, with ABS and metal/wood infused PLA as an option.

The thing is, a point mesh isn't all that practical when trying to do engineering when compared to something sketch-based like SW. Think of it like comparing schematics to a piece of clay. You can easily form the clay into sort of what you want, but there's no real precision. Schematics offers you absolutely all of the precision, but it can be very difficult to come up with the math version of "A pretty face". You can easily sculpt a face out of clay however. Blender is for making people or car exteriors, CAD is for designing the engine or gearbox.

[Anonymous No.1383115]

>>1383107
Thanks.
I'm yet to ask if they have PET but my concern with the material is if it's going to be as durable as injection plastic. I've just read through a quick google search that PET is the plastic used on plastic bottles, not sure if that's right, which seems pretty good for this purpose but I'm not sure how durable it would be when forming thicker pieces or being subjected to stress and play; or if it would be possible to paint it now that I think of it.

[Anonymous No.1383123]

>>1383115
You can airbrush PET with acrylic water base easily. Yeah, it'll be weaker than injection, but ABS with high infill and good slicing can actually be surprisingly strong.

[Anonymous No.1383124]

>>1383115
PETG prints as hot as ABS and is about as strong, but its benefit is flexibility. ABS will break if you overstress it, PETG will bend quite far.

[Anonymous No.1383133]

I had a brilliant idea.
A direct drive extruder, but the stepper motor torque is transferred to the gears through a flexible driveshaft sort of thing. Could this work?

[Anonymous No.1383142]

>>1383133
are you me?
i was thinking of this just today

[Anonymous No.1383143]

>>1383123
>>1383124
Thanks, guys.
Is there any place where I could compare both materials, though?

[Anonymous No.1383151]

>>1383142
Not sure what material should i use for the bowden to transfer torque.
One idea is to use spring steel wire. The other idea is to borrow a bowden from a car that drives the speed dial.

Also i think it cant transfer much torque so the driveshaft should spin fast and have a reduction at the extruder.

[Anonymous No.1383331]

>>1383133
Been done already.
Search Nimble extruder or Flex3Drive.
Doesn't realy look like a good idea to me. I might be wrong though.
>>1383151
I think the cheapest would be to look at scooters on a junkjard.

[Anonymous No.1383373]

tevo tornado or cr10

[Anonymous No.1383385]

The extruder part right above the nozzle of my printer is clogged, and no matter how hard I push or pull the plastic piece in there, it's stuck.
How stupid is the idea of melting the plastic out of there? As in, just turn on the printer and wait for the stuff to flow out?

[Anonymous No.1383393]

>>1383385
I wouldn't plug the printer in. What I'd do is try to pull the very specific part that's stuck, in your case that little metal tube (?) and boil it. Just boil it. The metal will be fine, but the PLA will soften and probably detach. Then you can just give it a blast of compressed air or poke at it with something long and sharp and it should come right out. Make sure to do that immediately after taking it out of the water though, so the plastic doesn't have time to cool.

[Anonymous No.1383395]

>>1383393
Yeah, as it turns out, even 20 minutes on 225°C doesn't do much.

Thanks, I'll try your method and see what happens.

[Anonymous No.1383400]

>>1383393
Ayy anon you're the best, it worked! It didn't work on the first try, but after letting it soak for a few minutes, it went out pretty easily. Thanks!

[Anonymous No.1383416]

>>1383331
>Been done already.

Fuck. Every time i have a good idea, it already exists.

[Anonymous No.1383418]

>>1383416
I've read multiple forum posts saying the same about that exact idea.

[Anonymous No.1383468]

>>1383416
Dude, don't get me started. I came up with an excellent automatic gearbox, did a bunch of CADs and such, was almost ready to actually consider starting a company about it.
Then I discovered that it already existed, and had already been patented, and was called "Slushmatic" because of how awful it was.

[Anonymous No.1383476]

>>1383468
Planetary gears?

[Anonymous No.1383478]

>>1383476
No, torque converters. I got the idea from an old Swedish tank I was reading about, which used torque converters to simplify the gearbox design. My idea was essentially to just mate torque converters to each other. Turns out it already existed, GM invented it for the M18 Hellcat during WW2 and then fitted it to Buicks because it was very smooth. It was also extremely fuel inefficient and slow.

[Anonymous No.1383542]

>>1382818
Thanks man.
Are there any kits you'd recommend? Or ones that I should avoid?

[Anonymous No.1383659]

>>1383373
tornado if you want the size

[Anonymous No.1383693]

>>1383542
Not the same guy, but I would recommend a kit based on the Prusa i3. They won't be quite as good as the official thing, but you can easily upgrade it to print at the same standard, with things like autoleveling bed sensor mounts and print fans being easily printable yourself, and the hardware you can't print being available for a few bucks on ebay or ali. or a local TV repair shop if your city still has one of those. Anet A8, Geeetech Prusa i3 or CTC DIY Pro B being good examples. I personally use the CTC, because it's very cheap and the plywood frame is very sturdy and stable thanks to having top frames in both Y and X axis, unlike the Anet and Geeetech variants.
Either way I think your best bet is a Prusa. They're the most popular model, so there is a lot of help and resources available, and the print quality is excellent for the price. If you'd prefer not to build anything, Monoprice Mini is a good one, but the print area is only half what you'd get with a Prusa, but for the price you do get a very high quality printer that is ready to go.

[Anonymous No.1383708]

When I got my printer it came with a bunch of huge adhesive squares of blue paper, and they were great. Prints adhered well, and once the bed cooled down would just come off, usually without damaging the blue paper. Unfortunately I've now destroyed the last of the blue paper, so I bought blue tape to replace it. My problem now is that I literally cannot get prints off of the bed without tearing the tape off with them, and then sanding the tape off of the bottom of the print. Is there some way to make my bed less adhesive, so I don't have to go through the tedium of sanding the bottom of the print, cleaning the bed off with alcohol, and reapplying seven strips of tape every time I print something? I run a small business of printing D&D and Warcraft figures for people in my area, so I print a lot of tiny things.

[Anonymous No.1383713]

>>1383708
>wah wah my bed adhesion is too good wah wah humblebrag humblebrag

[Anonymous No.1383715]

>>1383713
Fuck off.

>>1383708
What's under the tape? Bare circuit, aluminum, glass, etc.? If it's just a heating pad (circuit) then get a glass bed and put watered-down PVA glue on it. If it's already glass, see above. I've never worked with aluminum so I can't suggest anything about that.

[Anonymous No.1383731]

>>1383713
>t.kapton tape fag
kek

[Anonymous No.1383734]

>>1383715
It's a glass bed, guess I'll go buy some PVA.

[Anonymous No.1383740]

>>1383734
This stuff works well if you dilute it to roughly 1 part glue to 2/3 parts water - it should be fairly easy to spread with a razor but not so thin that it's like cloudy water.

[Anonymous No.1383745]

>watch printer lay down brim to make sure I don't get a failed print
>hair catches in the X drive belt

[Anonymous No.1383746]

>>1383745
get a haircut, hippy

[Anonymous No.1383748]

>>1383745
>girls
>into 3d printing
Go back.

[Anonymous No.1383750]

>>1383746
Same thing I thought

>>1383748
You can fuck off too

[Anonymous No.1383753]

Is the wanhao D7 any good? Does it worth the price?

[Anonymous No.1383756]

>>1383748
I mean it could also just be a metalhead. Either way, why do you say "go back"?

[Anonymous No.1383771]

I just built my Anet A8 today. Printing a test box as we speak, pretty neat machines, cant wait to get some more filament and really do some cool stuff with it.

[Anonymous No.1383786]

/toy/ again.
How durable is nylon? Can it take being fiddled with, pressed around, or being part of a balljoint?

[Anonymous No.1383787]

>>1383748
you ever consider it might be your daughter
she just wants to impress you
why are you such a horrible father

[Anonymous No.1383788]

>>1382791
It makes them run faster.

Joke aside, dirt cheap printers often use this to attach belt to something.

[Anonymous No.1383801]

>>1383788
Fuck, my A8 uses zip ties, shits ghetto as fuck.

[Anonymous No.1383821]

>>1383801
That's relatively normal for Prusa style printers. That or a toothed block on the back of the carriage (like the actual Prusas).

[Anonymous No.1383842]

>>1383821
suprised me is all. Despite it im still getting a decent quality print. Built it today in about 5 1/2 hours, levled the table and selected a default box from the SD card it came with. Not too bad for a $120 3d printer.

[Anonymous No.1383880]

>>1383786
ABS might be what you're looking for, it's what most plastic toys are made of. I've got no experience with nylon so can't compare, unfortunately.

[Anonymous No.1383913]

>>1383713
>has never broken a print or damaged print surface trying to remove over-adhered prints
senpai it's even worse than peeled corners
>>1383740
does this work with ABS or PLA?

[Anonymous No.1383916]

>>1383756
That reddit chink with the unusually awful boob job maybe?

[Anonymous No.1383917]

>>1383913
>ABS or PLA
Both, so far. With PLA it lasts for at least 10-15 prints, I don't remember how long with ABS though. I usually put a drop of water and spread it around the bed to "freshen" the surface each print.

[Anonymous No.1383921]

>>1383917
great! I've found gluesticks to work with PLA and PETG but not ABS. The acetone/abs mixture works ok but it fails sometimes and I have to reapply it every print. I think I'll try that next

[Anonymous No.1383926]

>>1383921
I used the gluestick that came with my printer for a while, but it was a bit streaky and started breaking into chunks so I switched to liquid glue. Much smoother.

[Anonymous No.1383955]

>>1382770
I use a soviet gas mask (ГП-7) for soldering and painting, works really well. Biggest issue is that the heavy filter starts to strain your neck after awhile. Dont use the original filters as they're expired and many of the older ones contain asbestos fibers. Any modern 40mm. thread filter works, ebay has a few.

Also you dont need a mask for 3d printing, dont be silly

[Anonymous No.1383959]

Where could i buy inexpensive but still good enough linear rails in Europe? I don't require actual Hiwin quality as i'm only building a printer but i'd like a bit more than some chink shit.

[Anonymous No.1383962]

>>1383955
>gas mask for soldering
Do you use leadless soder with extremely agressive flux or what?

[Anonymous No.1383965]

>>1383962
...yes. Not sure how aggressive that creamy bga-flux is, but you need some sort of protection when soldering regardless, and i can't afford a real fume extractor. Even just the act of heating up a pcb can release funky smells in some cases

[Anonymous No.1383966]

>>1383959
I'd like to know too, im only aware of Igus

[Anonymous No.1384083]

>>1383916
>not liking asians with huge tits

[Anonymous No.1384087]

>>1384083
>liking asians with huge tits
If I wanted something grossly disproportionate and weird-looking I'd stick with American women

[Anonymous No.1384088]

>>1384083
>implying sexycyborg actually makes anything herself
In every one of her videos she's super clumsy with tools she should be very comfortable with. She's just a big boob front for her engineer husband to get patreon dollars from reddit, which is where you need to go back to.

[Anonymous No.1384125]

Has anyone here used aluminium metal filament? Would you mind posting a picture of something printed with that next to something actually made of aluminium so I can see how close it looks?

[Anonymous No.1384141]

I'm about to buy the 3D Maker Plus because I'm worried the 100$ discount coupon will run out soon.

This is my first printer, completely new to the hobby. I'm hearing I need to add a bunch of mods for ease of use. What do u guys recommend to start with?

[Anonymous No.1384147]

>>1384141
Monoprice are generally pretty good out of the box. Heated beds, decent extruders and nozzles, and a bed surface that generally lets PLA stick excellently without modification. If you're desperate for stuff to add I suppose you could print a new head that includes a mount for an autoleveling sensor, but I'm fairly sure the Monoprice software doesn't actually support that so you'd also need to replace the motherboard with something RAMPS based, probably the screen because Monoprice almost certainly use a different standard than Reprap, and then install and configure Marlin. All of that effort will get you a fairly minor convenience.

I'd leave a Monoprice product as it is. It comes with a heated bed and a print fan, those are really the two single biggest features you're likely to need.

[Anonymous No.1384210]

>>1380685

Hello again.
My CTC printer arrived today, but the board and power supply are different from the one in the post you linked, and the cable to connect to the power supply is also different. It has a 4pin connector on the control board side, and 4 prongs to attach to the power supply

The only instructions are on a CD, but I don't have a CD drive and I won't be able to get access to one until next week at the earliest.

Has anyone gotten a similar set up to mine who could assist? Basically I just need to know where to connect the leads coming from the 4pin connector.

[Anonymous No.1384211]

>>1384210
Close up of the power supply connector labels

[Anonymous No.1384213]

>>1384210
>>1384211

From the lack of labels on the leads I would assume black goes to COM and red goes to +V, but I would rather be sure of this before I burn my house down.

[Anonymous No.1384216]

>>1384213
>black goes to COM and red goes to +V
yes, that sounds right

[Anonymous No.1384243]

>>1384210
You can download the manual here. http://ctcprinter.com/download.php
You want "Manual For CTC DIY 1 3D Printer", but bear in mind that it looks like you got the same PSU I got, but a different motherboard cable (I'd argue yours is better, ATX is very convenient if you want to upgrade to a computer PSU) and circuit (no idea which is the better version). I still suggest you follow the assembly instructions on the blog, at least the order of assembly, because the manual includes such gems as "install the motherboard before the procedure that involves flipping the entire frame upside down and resting it on the side you just installed the electronics on". Don't feel too let down about the CD, all it contains is a driver that doesn't work (http://www.wch.cn/download/CH341SER_ZIP.html is the one you want), the manual, an ancient Chinese version of Cura, and three printable spare parts (available in a zip in the comments of the blog).

For the power supply, you'll want to connect your power cable to the L, N and Ground pegs (far left), and your motherboard cables red to the V pegs and black to the COM pegs in the middle and to the right. They're all 12V, which is what the motherboard wants (it seems to use MOSFETs to produce 5V for the sensors).

[Anonymous No.1384251]

>>1384211
>>1384210
One upgrade I think you need to get is a fused power plug. That's a shifty-looking power supply. Find out what amperage the power block is rated for, and get a fuse that's 50% higher than that, so you don't get the power cut when the bed heats.

[Anonymous No.1384252]

>>1384243
I tried that manual but it doesn't quite match the parts I got. The board matches, but the PSU doesn't, the numbered labels don't match at all for the most part.

I've managed to bungle my way through both the blog post, that manual, and the manual linked in the blog post to (I think) put everything together. All that's missing is connect all the components to the motherboard, but I'm gonna hold off until tomorrow since I'm quite tired at the moment.

[Anonymous No.1384255]

>>1384252
Yeah, the manual is complete shit. But really, the power supply is pretty self explanatory. The L, N and the lines in the circle symbol are international symbols for AC, meaning Live, Neutral and Ground. Your power cable will be colour coded to match that. "Com" probably stands for "Common", meaning common ground, or negative, or black wires, and +V is clearly "positive voltage", meaning the positive, or red, wire.

Have some sweet dreams anon. If you have any questions tomorrow I'll try to answer them for you, I should be here most of the day, but really anyone with the slightest clue about electronics should be able to help you put the CTC Prusa clone together. :) You do it once and you'll think it's easy afterward too.
>>1384251
I'm in the UK and it came with the European plug, so I just cut a monitor cable apart and crimped some connectors onto that, and all UK cables have a built in fuse in the plug so I sort of forgot that it might be a good thing to mention. It's really good advice though, >>1384252 you should consider this, having unfused Chinese electronics plugged into your walls is a bad idea. It'll be fine without such a fuse if you're ready to put out a fire if it does happen, but if you want to leave the printer on and unattended you'll really want it to have a fuse first. The CTC frame has a socket for you to mount a https://www.ebay.com/itm/ICE320-C14-Switched-Fused-Power-Socket-Kettle-Panel-Crimp-Red-Flux-Workshop/112607724325?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 and I suggest you do that, it has a connector that lets you plug in a glass fuse, and then you can just use a monitor cable to plug your printer into the wall. Another fire safety tip is to update the software, so you get thermal runaway protection and autoleveling. I'm currently doing that upgrade myself, so I'll let you know if and how it works.

[Anonymous No.1384257]

>>1384251
>rated
>Chinese power supply
Pick one. He should still get a fuse, but this is guesswork at best. The chink who invented that PSU probably doesn't even know what volt and amps it's safe at.

[Anonymous No.1384259]

>all UK cables have a built in fuse in the plug

Does that mean if I just use an adapter with the cable I got I should be safe?

[Anonymous No.1384262]

>>1384259
Yeah, it does. Are you also in the UK? Just go to any electronics shop, there'll be hundreds of "travel adapters" to convert the euro plug that comes with the printer into a UK plug.

[Anonymous No.1384265]

>>1384262
No, I'm the guy in the EU who got a UK cable.

I'll tear it apart tomorrow to verify if there's a fuse in there or not, ya never know with this chink shit.

Thanks for all the help guys.

[Anonymous No.1384269]

>>1384265
It 99% has a fuse, it should be accessible between the prongs on the plug. It's a small hatch, use a flat screwdriver to open it and pull the fuse out.

[Anonymous No.1384270]

Is the Monoprice SLA printer worthy of buying? What about a Duplicator? I use a Form2 at work regularly for gaming miniature sized things and if I buy my own SLA I would hope for nearly the same quality of prints.

[Anonymous No.1384271]

>>1384270
Just get a Prusa.

[Anonymous No.1384289]

>>1384271
>Prusa
>SLA

hmm

[Anonymous No.1384291]

>>1384289
In the grim darkness of the far future only prusa has survived

[Anonymous No.1384295]

>>1384291
i, for one, welcome our czech overlords

[Anonymous No.1384296]

>>1384291
>God-Emperor Josef Prusa
>and his army of weaponized, self-replicating Prusa Mk 3000s

[Anonymous No.1384301]

>>1384296
>self-replicating machines
Absolutely heretech.

[Anonymous No.1384332]

Got my Anycubic i3mega on the mail and when trying to print the owls test print the plastic just grts stuck around the nozzle making a floating platform, what do?

[Anonymous No.1384395]

>>1384332
Sounds like the nozzle is too high off the build platform

[Anonymous No.1384412]

>>1384395
I had to get it a bit higher up earlier tho because when Infirst tried printing the plastic would flow above the nozzle making it look like the nozzle was plowing a plastic field.

[Anonymous No.1384440]

>>1384395
>>1384412
Might be a stupid question but wheres the red cable? Assumed there isnt one since I didnt see it and maybe its just a newer model?....

[Anonymous No.1384445]

>>1384440
Nevermind, found it.

[Anonymous No.1384457]

Guys, pretty new to 3d printing. Got an Anet A8. lookin to make some upgrades to it, but everywhere I look I see "MUST HAVE ULTIMATE MEGA SUPER UPGRADE!"

What actually are some I ought to go for?

[Anonymous No.1384526]

>>1384457
First of all, look up fireproofing, because that's something anet is known for. Quality wise, usually on those kind of printers cooling is lacking, so you can print a cooling duct, it's great for printing PLA.

[Anonymous No.1384529]

>>1384289
You'd be suprise

[Anonymous No.1384564]

So I finished building my D-Bot and basically got the z-axis dialed in with lots of homing and turning screws.
Now what? I still need to insert values for my Volcano hotend but the Marlin software is completely arcane to me. I have no idea about the software.

[Anonymous No.1384575]

>>1384564
Just open it up with the arduino IDE and modify config.h to suit your needs. It should be mostly self explaining if you have something speciffic you don't understand just ask.

[Anonymous No.1384630]

>>1384255

Hello again.

I got my printer all set up and running, but when I press "Auto Home" the Z axis just moves up a little bit and stops instead of going down until it hits the stopper.

The other 2 axes zeroed out without a problem, but I can't figure out why this one is only going up instead of down.

If I manually press the Z stopper, it doesn't move at all, so I guess that's a good thing, but it still refuses to go down and only goes up a little bit, then stops on its own without hitting anything.

Any clues as to what I might have done wrong here?

[Anonymous No.1384631]

>>1384564
You need to disable cold extrusion prevention and extrude something like 50mm with the heaterblock off. Then you measure how much comes out of the heatbreak and adjust the E-steps accordingly.

>>1383959
Anything above chink shit is quality stuff already, like IKO. You could go for ebay and search for some used IKO, THK, Rexroth, etc rails.


I'm finishing the design of my h-bot, I need only to decide which controller to use, how to attach the PSU and the like. Turns out making a smaller 3D printer isn't really that much cheaper than making a larger one, but since if you're printing mostly 10cm or so parts every day it isn't worth having a big printer in first place I guess there's still a niche for it. What do you think, /3dpg/ ?

I'll design a cheaper one using the same basic frame with the same kinematics as the Leapfrog Creatr, but since the only expensive component I can get rid of are the linear rails it won't be that much cheaper, maybe 10% or so.

[Anonymous No.1384633]

>>1384631
>heaterblock off
BTW, by that I mean you need to phisically remove it and keep the hotend turned off, or else you'll actually get burned.

[Anonymous No.1384635]

>>1374859
That wouldn't happen with a chink 3d printer with chink shit components

[Anonymous No.1384636]

>>1384265
All uk plugs have a fuse.

[Anonymous No.1384639]

>>1384630
After experimenting with the options to manually control the axes, I can get every axis to work correctly when controlled manually except for Z.

I can move it up, and I can move it down back to where it started, but the Home option always just moves it up about 10 mm and then stops, while also making that height the new "zero" so I can't make it go back down no matter what I do.

Send help.

[Anonymous No.1384640]

>>1384639
>but the Home option always just moves it up about 10 mm and then stops
Your z endstop is probably triggered. Send M119 and see what it reports.

[Anonymous No.1384641]

>>1384640

Turns out I'm just retarded and connected the Z stopper to the wrong slot on the board. I guess it's an extra Z stop or something since actuating the z stopper did stop it moving at all, but now I connected it properly and home worked.

Thanks!

[Anonymous No.1384666]

>>1384641
Have you printed a calibration cube yet? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2906205 is the thing you'll want to print once you've got it printing.

[Anonymous No.1384675]

>>1384666
I tried but ended up with just an amorphous wad of filament.

I probably fucked up calibrating the bed alignment/distance from extruder tip, I'm gonna give everything a once-over later today after a break.

[Anonymous No.1384687]

>>1384675
Okay, so what I'd do there is start with making sure the X axis is aligned. Raise it to something like 150mm high, grab your calipers, go into the Prepare menu and select "Disable Steppers", then start twisting the Z screw rods until the X axis is perfectly level with the top of the printer frame. Then press Z home. Next you'll want to configure the bed. Disable the steppers again and grab a sheet of normal printer paper, and slide that between the bed and the nozzle. Use the wing nuts underneath the bed to raise or lower it, when it is perfectly calibrated you should be able to slide the paper between the bed and the nozzle, with a slight resistance. Do that for all four corners, then do it once again because adjusting one corner will slightly misalign another, since the screws aren't perfectly centred on the edge of the print area. You won't get it perfectly level because of this design flaw, but you don't need that either, just "good enough" is fine.

Also also, did you get the aluminium bed with blue tape on it, like me and the German blogger, or did you get the glass bed? If you got the glass bed, go to a construction shop and buy some blue masking tape, apply a layer to your glass making sure to avoid air bubbles, and recalibrate. Odds are you'll get a successful print right away, PLA adheres crazy well to blue masking tape.

[Anonymous No.1384692]

How do i know if "Hiwin" rails like these sold on Aliexpress are real Hiwin stuff and not just some chinkshit? i don't wanna pay extra if i'm getting shit anyway.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-HIWIN-MGN12-MGN12C-MG12-New-original-linear-guide-block-Original-HIWIN-Linear-Guide-CNC-Parts/32617073656.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.2.424c4b3b6YA61D&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10151_10065_10068_10344_10342_10343_10340_10341_10696_10084_10083_10618_10304_10307_10302_10059_308_100031_10103_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=d2eae572-68e4-44c6-90e8-6bd42a08eb3e-0&algo_pvid=d2eae572-68e4-44c6-90e8-6bd42a08eb3e&priceBeautifyAB=0

[Anonymous No.1384694]

>>1384687

Time to take another "I'm retarded" shot.

I got the glass bed, but it has blue masking tape already applied on one side.

Thing is, I put it to one side carefully when I was building the thing so I wouldn't drop it/anything on it and then completely forgot that it existed.

Also, I don't have calipers but I do have a solid, straight hunk of metal (an old stamp) which I used to align the X axis from the bottom.

[Anonymous No.1384699]

>>1384692
Just ask the seller. Search Noulei Shangai, they have an aliexpress store and they sell real hiwin rails. The price seems right. 25 usd is the cost of a clone with the carriage on it.

[Anonymous No.1384701]

>>1384694
That's a perfectly good way of levelling the X axis, so that's not your issue. You've been printing directly on the aluminium? That'd be your real issue, PLA adheres poorly to straight glass or aluminium, that's more for ABS. Use the glass bed with the tape facing up and you'll probably have more success with your printing. You /can/ print PLA to glass or aluminium, but it's generally pretty hard to get a print to stick, I've had to use rafts for anything but very simple prints like calibration cubes. Some blue tape really does wonders, even huge PLA prints generally stick even without brims on the tape.

[Anonymous No.1384703]

>>1384699
This, right? Seems pretty legitimate. https://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/7-9-12-15-MGN/437307_260570220.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.4bdf2f9dD48lsJ&origin=n&SortType=price_asc&g=y
It seems that the MGN9C is the cheapest type of rail, a smaller version compared to MGN12C, right? Will it work for printing? I would really like to go with the cheapest option and seeing as it's not suspect to i figure it'd be fine.

[Anonymous No.1384705]

>>1384703
*suspect to any high loads

[Anonymous No.1384712]

>>1384705
you'd better hope they don't get a subpoena

[Anonymous No.1384714]

>>1384703
>I would really like to go with the cheapest option
It will work perfectly unless you're making an H-bot's y axis, for that you should use the one with the highest MY rating, either MGN12H or MGN15H. They're way quieter than round shafts as well.

This is what you should expect from them
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6L8fQW-RkQ

[Anonymous No.1384716]

Also, if you're bolting them to a plate with previously drilled holes, ask them to cut the rail with the correct end-to-last-hole distance, or else you're gonna have a bad time

[Anonymous No.1384734]

I decided on the Anet A8 for my first printer. How hard is the build?

[Anonymous No.1384736]

>>1384734

[Anonymous No.1384737]

>>1384736
Is that a personal problem is are some of the Anet A8s just like that?
It looks wonky.

[Anonymous No.1384750]

>>1384714
Seems like a pretty sweet build, is there any difference between putting the rail on top of the extrusion or on the side like in that build? Link on the build?

[Anonymous No.1384751]

>>1384736
I mean it's not like it has to survive torsional loads like that, just ones in the x and y directions.

[Anonymous No.1384758]

>>1384750
It doesn't really make a difference in practice since the rail/block assembly is so solid and has pretty much no slop

[Anonymous No.1384765]

>>1384751
It's actually fine printing on its own, you only have to take care not to crack the acrylic sheets when tightening the bolts. You can upgrade to an aluminum extrusion frame later on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdsmOH3TG3c

[Anonymous No.1384787]

D-Bot Volcano 1mm PETG
Printbed is PEI stuck onto a glass plate for flatness.

Print settings:
Extruder: 260°c first layer, 255°c the rest
Printbed: 120c first layer, 75 the rest
Print speed 40mm/s
Been playing with the Z-Offset and its not helped very much. I'm up to 1.2mm at this point and all that happens is that the first inch or so sticks, but then it delaminates from the printbed and blobs around the extruder, pic related.

Help?

[Anonymous No.1384793]

>>1384737
It's just illustrative of just how shitty the shitty acrylic frames really are.

[Anonymous No.1384800]

>>1384787
So it's not staying stuck to the plate? I suppose a higher bed temperature ought to help.

[Anonymous No.1384802]

>>1384793
Looks like I'm going for the CTC then. Thanks man

[Anonymous No.1384832]

>>1384802
>going for the CTC even after the other guy in this thread had such problems with getting it running

[Anonymous No.1384841]

>>1384265
All UK plugs have to have fuses in them. If you are going to use an adapter, make sure you get an adapter that has an earth..... whatever the hell the earth is on euro plugs. Better yet, the PSUs usually just run off of a regular 3 pin kettle lead, so just get a new one, you probably have one lying around.

[Anonymous No.1384875]

>>1384787
That's pretty fucking hot for PETG

[Anonymous No.1384897]

>>1384802

Plywood isn't much of an improvement anon... I would suggest one of those TEVOs or whatever that use alu extrusions

[Anonymous No.1384913]

>>1384841
The ground on the europlug is the two "stripes" of metal on the sides of the plug itself, which connect to two springs on the sides of the socket. It's a design choice to let the ground disconnect after the live and neutral, for added safety, the same way your plugs have a slightly longer pin for the ground. If he gets a kettle plug he'll need a socket like >>1384255, the CTC only comes with screw terminals on the PSU and a power cord with crimped screw connectors.
>>1384897
>plywood not being an improvement
Speak for yourself, I cut my own plywood frame and it's alright. It's an Anet issue, caused by being retards and using too thin acrylic and no reinforcing structure.

[Anonymous No.1384933]

>>1384564
what's the printing dimensions on this?

[Anonymous No.1384964]

Yo, I'm still that faggot with the Volcano D-Bot.

I substantially lowered the print speed and this is what I get.

Keep in mind that this is supposed to be the first three layers or so of a 20mm calibration cube.

Something is severely fucked up here.

[Anonymous No.1384967]

>>1384933
Depending on how you personally build it, somewhere around 30x20x33cm
Due to some design constraints with my build its a bit smaller than that for me.

[Anonymous No.1384968]

>>1384964
What are you so upset about? That white overextrusion you should be able to get rid of by just pulling with your needle nose pliers. The phone itself seems to have printed perfectly fine.

[Anonymous No.1384970]

>>1384964
Looks like it might be way too hot extrusion temperature and a loose set screw or something else wrong with that x axis belt/pulley

[Anonymous No.1384972]

>>1384964
man what the hell is happening? like watch the first few layers and describe what starts to go wrong.

[Anonymous No.1384975]

>>1384972
>>1384970
>>1384968
The issue is that the print stuck now, but it's way off center. Look at it! All lines are supposed to be in the middle of the vaguely rectangular box on the right side, but it completely drifted off to the lower right. Something really is wrong here.

[Anonymous No.1384977]

>>1384975
*lower left

[Anonymous No.1384982]

>>1384964
these lines are way too rounded. The tops of these printed lines should be flat and the sides of the lines should be more crisply vertical. Measure the actual nozzle size and double check that matches your slicer settings. Recalibrate the z-home to be closer to the bed. Print thinner layers. Print lower temps

Definitely skipping steps. Check the x+y axes for smoothness. check the motors and drivers aren't really hot. check that your PSU isn't falling under load

[Anonymous No.1385008]

>>1384975
Alright, well how is it happening? Are the motors turning the required amount? are they skipping? is the belt skipping? look at the printer for those few starting layers and describe what is out of the ordinary.

[Anonymous No.1385010]

Has anyone here printed a gun yet? https://www.theverge.com/2013/10/25/5027282/uk-police-seize-3d-printed-gun-components

[Anonymous No.1385015]

>>1385010
Wrong tool for the job. You can mill a plastic lower with a drill press nowadays.

[Anonymous No.1385021]

>>1385010
Man, I'm still angry about that. The BBC went full retard "Anyone could have a 3D printed gun now!" when those prints were seen (which are obviously spare parts for the printer to anyone with the slightest knowledge of 3D printing) and launched a whole campaign around "Forget about how we have absolutely horrible knife crime stats, just imagine if people start printing guns! Ban printers now!", and they never issued a retraction. Vice at least had the grace to edit their article to point out that the prints "might" be spare parts rather than a fucking gun.

Besides, that's a PLA printer. I think we should be encouraging people to print guns out of PLA, it will remove some bad genes from the gene pool.

[Anonymous No.1385026]

>>1385021
If we ban spool holders nobody will have a spool holder.

[Anonymous No.1385028]

>>1385021
I've cut myself more on PLA than I have shot myself with PLA

Ban all PLA please

[Anonymous No.1385031]

>>1385010
>The worrying thing is for me is that these printers can be used to make certain components of guns, while others can be legitimately ordered over the Internet without arousing suspicion. When put together, this could allow a person to construct a firearm in their own home.
Your ordinary British fear-mongering crap, pressure containing components are the ones considered a "gun" under British law, an all around good way to categorize where the gun starts and ends, have fun trying to print your barrel and bolt and ordering the rest online though, prints only work for extremely low pressure applications today and tomorrow.

[Anonymous No.1385033]

>>1385028
It does make surprisingly sharp shapes now doesn't it, i suppose that is due to it being so hard or whatever.

[Anonymous No.1385037]

>>1385031
Eh, you could just buy a barrel, there are pipes from decently hard steel available in normal hardware stores, and do it flintlock style by loading through the barrel and using steel balls as ammo. Your accuracy and reload speed will be awful, obviously, but it's not like a real 3D printed gun would be very accurate either, nor could it get off more than a single shot without melting or blowing itself apart. A few centuries ago people made perfectly functional guns out of fucking brass, it's not like you need a modern assault rifle if your only goal is putting a cap in Pajeets head.
>>1385033
Don't say that to any officer of Her Majesty, or they'll ban PLA out of fear that people will start printing their own knives.

[Anonymous No.1385038]

>>1384802
The A8's can be reenforced and shored up. TBQH that doesnt look like much of a quality build. Mine had an end-stop switch on the x axis go out and started doing the same thing, but it wasnt flexing nearly that bad, and I havent even added in the extra supports yet. If his skills at assembly are as piss poor as his wiring then Im not suprised the thing is looser than an inmates asshole.

[Anonymous No.1385041]

>>1385037
>you just need a metal tube to make a gun
ikr, all this dumb fearmongering about 3d printers is really driving me nuts.

[Anonymous No.1385042]

>>1385040
I think you missed your thread

[Anonymous No.1385044]

>>1385040
>S&box

[Anonymous No.1385046]

>>1385042
>>1385044
This is what I get for switching around the order of my tabs

[Anonymous No.1385048]

Alright lads, the guy who asked about the linear rails earlier here. So i ended up going with the cheapest option 4x300mm MGN12 rails $10 a piece, that price was just too goddamn attractive, i'll be telling you guys how they work, and if they even work when i get them in about a month or two.

[Anonymous No.1385049]

>>1385037
Hell, you can just buy steel pipes in normal fucking 12 gauge shotgun caliber (18.5mm bore hard steel pipe) and fire commercial shotgun shells or slugs with your homemade gun. No need to pack ammo through the barrel with a rod, just make a break action shotgun. You won't get an extractor or a safety, but you don't exactly need those on an improvised gun anyway.

[Anonymous No.1385062]

This is an object printed in vase mode, continuous extrusion, y'know the deal, almost everything is fine, it's fast, it's strong, and it would be pretty if not for this huge seam right there. The seam is a result of the motors slowing down for a half a second at that spot, every layer. The seam is in the same spot for every vase mode print i have made, could i somehow get rid of this? For the slicer i'm using repetierhost cura.

[Anonymous No.1385072]

>>1385062
Usually a seam is formed where the layer step up is. But your printing in vase mode so there shouldn't be a step up. Not sure what to do.

[Anonymous No.1385075]

>>1385072
Indeed, the seam seems to be generated in the part that is closest to the homing corner if that is of any help.

[Anonymous No.1385088]

>>1385062
>>1385072
>>1385075
It's because Cura vase mode is retarded. It does print in a continuous line, but there is also a step-up, and like you say that step-up is at the homing centre. What you can do to fix this is enable "Smooth Spiralized Contours", which should be right under vase mode (Spiralize Outer Countour) in the advanced settings.

[Anonymous No.1385091]

>>1385088
Repetierhost Cura unfortunately does not seem to have that option, oh well, i suppose i'll have to use some other slicer for vases.
>why don't you just use Cura or Slic3r?
Because those things for some godforsaken reason take atleast 4 times as long to slice, working with them is a pain in the ass.

[Anonymous No.1385136]

>need a 15cm M8 bolt
>late, can't be arsed to go to the shop and buying something
>draw something up in cad and print it overnight
>turns out actually usable
I didn't expect this.