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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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1364963 No.1364963 [Reply] [Original]

Old thread >>1352975

Need help with prints? Post:
>filament type, bed & extruder temp, print & fan speed, etc

Still new pasta, feel free to contribute

>general info
https://www.3dhubs.com/what-is-3d-printing
https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base
Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker

>open source community
http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Machines
http://forums.reprap.org/
#RepRap @freenode

>buyfag buyers guide
https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide
Any cheap chinkshit kit

>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki (lots of useful stuff)
http://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/index

>why do my prints look like shit, visual troubleshooting
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

>how to calibrate
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints
https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer
http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide
http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/
youtu.be/w_Wb0i0-Qvo [Embed]

>where do I get files to print?
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://www.youmagine.com/
http://www.thingiverse.com/
https://www.myminifactory.com/

>what programs do you make your own files with
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing
http://www.freecadweb.org/
https://www.blender.org/
http://www.openscad.org/
https://www.onshape.com/
http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview

>what kind of filament do I want
Begin with a roll of known brand PLA before moving to more demanding materials.
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/28-material-guide
http://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare

>Hotends
e3d and its clones

>SLA&DLP
http://www.buildyourownsla.com/
http://www.nanodlp.com/

>SLS
http://sintratec.com/ SLS kit.

>> No.1364967

>>1364963
>>1364487
https://my.mixtape.moe/efjkdb.zip

>> No.1364971

I'm designing a cheap metal 3D printer for a major company. The goal is for it to be accessible to regular people and institutions. Ask me anything?

>> No.1364976

>>1364967
>404
;_;

>> No.1364980

>>1364971
Is a metal print going to actually be more useful than a plastic printer?
I know the strength of metal varies widly depending on what kind of printer it is, and im guessing a "for the masses" printer isnt going to put out metal prints that are exponentially stronger than high end plastic prints.

Is it kind of a marketing deal, or will it actually be something you print brackets and bolts and even a gun that will be usable

>> No.1365002
File: 303 KB, 1109x537, 1490504598113.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1365002

>>1364980
>exponentially stronger than
Every single material substance is "exponentially stronger than" every single other material substance. I know the x makes it sound cool, but it's usually a good idea to understand what terms mean before using them.

>> No.1365029

>>1364967
>>1364487
>link to tubgirl
there's a way to rip the file from the website, someone here knows how

https://www.yobi3d.com/v/0DcubK6vqj/o_19ecqi5ot1oufqk1e161k1rbifi.stl

>> No.1365051
File: 45 KB, 740x721, 1520968716269.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1365051

>>1365002
Great post
Instead of going into specifics and comparing whatever metal printing process you might be using to other common hobby ones, you want to whine about how I phrased the question.

>> No.1365075

>>1365029
>>1364967
There. Totally not a virus.
https://my.mixtape.moe/lxwuvv.zip

Should i make a repo of the python script i made?

>> No.1365077

>>1364971
Whats the price goal for the machine?
Building volume?
Laser power?
Scanning is done with galvos or actuators?
What infrastructure will it need? Air? Water? Inert gas?

>> No.1365083
File: 771 KB, 469x372, oh deer.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1365083

>>1365051
Why thank you. It's just a pet peeve of mine, but I'm glad it made a difference.

>> No.1365110

Still waiting for a thread pic thats only dildos.

>> No.1365117

>>1364963
Tecт

>> No.1365158
File: 166 KB, 848x458, 1523070646753.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1365158

What are the perfect retraction and z-hop settings for a bowden extruder with a 0.2mm nozzle printing PLA?

>> No.1365207

Can anybody with PETG experience share how they bond their pieces together? I'm not necessarily looking for something as strong as a chemical weld, rather I'm looking for a decent enough hold that can stand up to the occasional bump or scrape.

>> No.1365259

>>1365075
Thank you!

>> No.1365292

>>1365207
5 minute epoxy works well.

>> No.1365307
File: 106 KB, 2000x1500, 8_b453c55b-e3fa-4def-b4aa-1e5588c65497.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1365307

Hey /3dpg/ i foolishly used Igus RJM-01 linear bearings for my printer years ago and i'm looking to replace them with something decent.

These things are supposed to be "specially pressfit" so they don't sit loose on the shaft and match the intended tolerances, it's even mentioned with small print on their website, so i doubt im the first person to fall for it. Are the black GFM series sleeve bearings the same deal or are they fine without a pressfit? I don't want to scratch up my rods with regular LM10UUs...

>> No.1365323
File: 909 KB, 2246x4096, 50112_ClearWeld_Syringe_Call_Out_FLT.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1365323

>>1365292
>>1365207
Unless it's ABS and you can acetone weld it, epoxy adhesive is always the answer

>> No.1365332

>>1365083
> It's just a pet peeve of mine

Whats that? Using 3rd grade math in a comparison of strength between printing processes?
What an odd pet peeve.

>> No.1365336

>>1365307
How about printing some sliders amd lubing them up generously with white lithium grease? There are no serious loads on the bearings so friction and wear with pla ought to be minimal.

>> No.1365342

>>1365323
3dkitchen just released a video on the subject, regular good old superglue is almost on par with epoxy, due to ease of use i'd go with that desu.

>> No.1365347

>>1365336

What do you mean by sliders?

>> No.1365354

>>1365347
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2537701

>> No.1365363

>>1365354

Might be worth a shot, but i don't use aluminium blocks for the bearings and it says it needs a proper cylindrical shape to fit into. Would z-wobble in the print affect the usability of the part?

>> No.1365444

>>1365363
I suppose it might reduce the area of the bearing surface of the part which would mean that only a small area would be wearing so it would wear and get loose a bit faster. I don't think you need aluminum holders for these, many others seem to have printed their holders.

>> No.1365474

>>1365363
so... you could drill, ream, and lap a piece of brass/bronze for your bearing?

>> No.1365498

>>1364971
Binder Jet I assume given how expensive lasers are.

>> No.1365505

Guys I have a question and I decided I'd rather ask here than /tg/.
I'd like to get back into painting miniatures ( and scenery ) but I remember it being a fucking expensive hobby.
So next time I do it, I'd want to make my own.
Do you think it's better to learn how to make molds and buy 1 of each overpriced product, or invest in a 3D Printer ?
Thing is, I'd want the best quality possible and from what I've read I'd need a printer capable of 35 micron precision for 28mm miniatures, in order to get the quality of Games Workshop.
Since I don't play the games but merely want to collect and paint, I'm leaning towards the 3D Printer.
What do you guys think ?
And what about 3D Scanners ?
I have no 3D designing experience, nor do I have experience with 3D printers, would it be possible for me to scan purchased miniatures and print them at the same quality without requiring any editing ?

TL;DR

Molds or 3D printer for miniatures?

>> No.1365520
File: 123 KB, 812x819, ss (2018-02-26 at 10.08.01).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1365520

>>1365505
Either way would be a pain in the ass. Don't do what I did and try to recast an entire Start Collecting box, it's way more trouble than it's worth. If you're okay with spending a lot of time learning how to cast and buying a lot of silicone, resin, equipment to cast it, and setting up enough area to do so, go for it.

If you're find with knockoff/low-quality figurines or badly-scanned miniatures then go the 3D printer route. You're looking at an investment of ~$3000+ for a printer that can get that kind of quality.

Pic related is an early recast of mine. I didn't degas it properly so there were bubbles in the final model, but it works well enough if you don't look too closely. You CAN get the same quality by recasting, but you really have to know what you're doing.

Honestly, after all I went through, I'm just going to buy the damn things when I can, even after I get my resin printer.

>> No.1365524

>>1365520
Are the figurines that shit quality from 3D printers ?
I'd rather take the less expensive time consuming route then, if I can reuse the molds.

>> No.1365531

>>1365520
not that anon but surely something under but close to 1k usd would be able to do miniatures with the right settings and nozzle?
and if not then there are sub-1k resin printers which should do adequately for models that fit inside a shot glass if you don't expect them to be microscopically perfect

I just wouldn't want to deal with the chemicals personally though I've never used resin printers

>> No.1365543

>>1365524
That's from recasting. 3D printers are going to be even worse at that scale, and each figure will take probably a day to print or so.

>>1365531
If you can find ~0.2mm nozzles which can give that kind of quality and hardware which has tolerances close to that, sure.

>sub 1k resin printers
I'm not familiar with them so I can't say for sure they won't work, but I doubt it. I would love to be proven wrong, though.

I'm not joking, the details on these figures can get lower than probably 0.25mm (grooves, engravings, etc.) and the layer lines lines would probably be really visible on FDM printers. I'm not trying to scare anyone away, just going off of personal experience.

>> No.1365545
File: 611 KB, 3024x4032, sdumoosea3d01.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1365545

>>1365543
The sub 1k DLP machines work, they can be a little finky but once the person learns some, and has the machine and the resin in a good spot, it's easy to get models cranking out.

Not quite like FDM the low end resins smell fucking terrible and pose some health risks.

< pic related off the anycubic photon which is like sub 600 if memory is correct.

>> No.1365577
File: 102 KB, 895x397, ss (2018-04-08 at 07.07.05).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1365577

>>1365545
Neat machine. Though A) what's off-printing, and B) who in their right mind calls a Raspberry Pi "unstable"? Their page looks sketchy and full of weird info to me.

>> No.1365588

>>1365332
>Using 3rd grade mathematical terms INCORRECTLY in strength comparisons
>>1364980
>im guessing a "for the masses" printer isnt going to put out metal prints that are exponentially stronger than high end plastic prints

>> No.1365622

>>1365577
A typical marketing BS, a lot of places do it saidly, mostly BS claims or lets compare a 500 dollar prints vs a 25,000 prints for cost

>> No.1365624

>>1365577
Forgot to add, the offline printing they are comparing it to the wanhao d7 where you have to plug it into your pc's hdmi out since it doesn't have it's control board do it, or for the d7 you can use a raspberry pi handle it via nanodlp

>> No.1365636

>>1365545
that is a damn good print

>> No.1365773

>>1365545
How many minis like that can you get out of a bottle of resin? Also, is that a Heroforge model?
>t. Guy looking into an Anycubic as his 2nd printer specifically for wargaming shit

>> No.1365784

>>1365002
>>1365083
>>1365588

>Ask me anything
>Someone asks legitimate question
>Gives out snarky answers

How about you tell us more about this printer, we don't care how much better you are at the maths

>> No.1365788
File: 1.63 MB, 2079x1259, 20180409_054024.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1365788

Just got a Prusa mk2s. I'm printing some cable chains for it at the moment, because those sleeves and zip-ties just looked like pinch points during assembly.
I don't think I'll be using the machine all that much (just got it for a one-off project), but the concept is pretty interesting. Maybe I'll get more into it, and some upgrade ideas I can print off seem like a great place to familiarize myself with it. Any suggestions?

>>1365784
I don't think that's the same guy responding.

>> No.1365861

>>1365773
quite a lot really, mini's don't take a ton on ml of resin, and I believe so, stole the image off someone from le reddit showing off a print.

>> No.1365976

>>1365861
>>1365773
Bottles are usually 1000 mL
A 28mm-scale miniature will take at most 10 mL of resin including supports

So even counting failures and large miniatures you get an ass-load out of a bottle.

>> No.1365996
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1365996

Do slicers take into account the nozzle size of printers or is that something I have to figure out when modeling? I've printed parts in the past which were supposed to be flush/fit together easily but they just wouldn't fit. Trimming to fit seems to take off more material than the width of the nozzle, though, but my printer should be calibrated - but if the calibration's off, both parts should be "wrong-sized" together.

I don't know where the issue could be.

>> No.1366014

>>1365996

You input the nozzle diameter in the slicer's settings, thats how it calculates how much material to extrude. If it's set smaller than the actual size, the print wil be underextruded, and if it's set bigger - it will overextrude. The width of the extruded material also varies depending on how much it's squished, so it's not a very accurate process, espceially on the 1st layer. If your extruder is well calibrated you will get a snug fit most of the time, but when modelling a part it's always best to print test parts to check how they fit and then adjust the model accordingly.

I'd double check my slicer settings and extruder Esteps first before changing the model though. Like i said, with a well calibrated extruder parts should fit together most of the time, even if not 100% accurately.

>> No.1366015

>>1366014

And btw parts being "wrong-sized together" is a wrong assumption - if you somehow have the diameter wrong and its over extruding, parts will both be "fatter". Any holes or gaps will in turn be smaller, and any pegs will be too big, making the fitment doubly-wrong, in a way.

>> No.1366051

>>1365976
How long do these resins stay usable?

>> No.1366272
File: 1.72 MB, 1047x953, mpcnc.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1366272

Havent been in this general for a while, did anyone else finish an MPCNC?

I just got mine together and cut something for the first time. Its a chevy logo I actually made to cut out as a decal for my truck, it was the only file I have so I ran it and I think it came out pretty good

>actually had it put together in late 16 and actually posted pics here
>used poor quality conduit
>the conduit was bent enough and I made the build volume so large so it wouldnt square no matter what I did
>used the pen plotter a few times to see parallelograms instead of squares, never made a cut in wood or cut a decal
>disassembled it and ended up moving houses, sat until recently where I decided to build it smaller and buy better conduit

Its a lot more fun when its cutting shit than just using a pen to draw stuff

>> No.1366311

>>1364963
Prusa Y-axis isn't moving when calibration runs. I've checked all the mechanical parts and everything seems fine (pulleys, bearings, rods). Curious thing is that the y axis literally has no issues with movement. It only fails when calibrating.

>> No.1366313

>>1366311
Video describing what happens when I calibrate:
https://youtu.be/N0qWI1a_gwI

Wanna reiterate: I've ruled out all the mechanical issues. The grub screws on the pulley wheel are tight; the pulley belt is taut; the rods are parallel; the bearings are tight. I'm moving to electrical causes now. I've tried flashing, no dice.

>> No.1366314

Any of you cheap fucks tried using dollar store picture frame glass with aluminum foil tape on the bottom to use with a capacitive sensor?

For some reason my sensor isn't recognizing the tape sometimes during autolevel and the nozzle jams into the glass, what up with that?

>> No.1366323

>>1366313
Check that every single pin of your motor is well connected, no i don't care if you put on your connectors properly, check that every single wire is properly inserted.

>> No.1366326

>>1366313
>>1366311
Its missing steps from the motor being pushed too hard or too fast. Change your homing speed, and make sure your stepper drivers arent running too much current.

>> No.1366395

>>1365996
You need to understand how the material is extruded, the nozzle doesnt produce flat side walls but ones that "overextrude" in the upper or middle part of the layer. This causes a additional width, that is not compensated by the slicer without additional input.

>> No.1366402

>>1366314
Inductive sensor, not capacitive. It's not working because they don't work like that (the fact you're picking up anything at all is probably due to dumb luck). Stop being a big fat cheapo and pick up some aluminum or steel sheet and slap some PEI on top of it.

>> No.1366406
File: 110 KB, 960x1280, photo_2018-04-10_13-28-05.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1366406

im having an issue with the walls of my print. it seems the different wall thickness layers are spaced too far appart.
i have got my printer now for 3 months and have not been able to fix this issue. i used the settings my tevo tornado came with and tried to varie several parameters, but no result
i use repetier with slic3r and tried to change these settings:
print speed
extrution multiplyer (its set correctly, tried to overextrude)
layer hight
cooling
xy size compensation
basic wall related settings

nothing seems to help, any of u know a solution?

>> No.1366431

>>1366406
What nozzle size have you set in your settings? Does it correspond with the nozzle you're using? What diameter do you have your filament setting set to? Does it correspond with the filament you're using?

>> No.1366443
File: 118 KB, 1280x960, photo_2018-04-10_16-50-29.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1366443

>>1366431
yes, 0.4mm nozle and 1.75 mm filament, the example shown was when i was from a print i wanted to do fast and didnt need to be detailed. pic related is with a slow speed (60mm/s) and it is the best i get, slower wont improve.
over extruding is kinda working for the walls but then it fuckes up other features so i dont use that.

>> No.1366475

>>1366443
Try the following:
Set all print speeds the same. If that fixes it, it means your extruder or hotend has different output rates at different speeds. If it aint fixed through this, it could a kind of backlash problem in your printer movement.

>> No.1366486

>>1366443
How about just try a different slicer, repetierhost cura, while very barebones is one of my most used slicers because it works and slices 4 times faster than others.

>> No.1366498
File: 646 KB, 639x855, 1523368211126.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1366498

R8 my build, /3dpg/

>> No.1366504

>>1366498
Feels like 2009.

>> No.1366512

>>1366504
I assure you it's very modern. It even has an E3D Volcano hotend.

>> No.1366524

>>1366475
okay ill try this, ill let ya know tomorow how it worked out
i currently do have it set at outer = 75% inner wall speed. thx for the tip

>> No.1366556

>>1366498
man your steppers are short.
Are you the guy who asked about the bridge in one of the parts?

>> No.1366626

>>1366556
I think they're steppers salvaged from laser stage lights, but they handle the movements just fine up to 50mm/s. I printed the parts with supports but I couldn't fit the rods in, so I printed another set of a different model without that bridge. Only issue is the rods are a bit too lose, so I guess I'll print another set with a tad bit smaller holes.

>> No.1366670

This is a retarded question, but If I'm making a thing with a couple pieces that articulate together, but are assembled after being printed, is it better to have a file for each individual piece, or make all the pieces in the same file and send that to the printer

>> No.1366683

>>1366670
Use separate digital 3D files and put them in one slicer file, assuming they all fit on your build plate

>> No.1366684

>>1366670
That's not a retarded question. My answer is yes; your design file should include all the pieces in assembled form (so you know they fit together correctly in the first place!). Your print files (.stl) should be individual parts (or maybe logical groups) so you can lay everything out to print as efficiently as possible.

>> No.1366779

My filament keeps curling around my nozzle even though it's so close to the bed my butt puckers each time it goes to home. What do?

>> No.1366816

>>1366779
Not close enough

>> No.1366817

>>1366816
When it does it's little test strip it's perfect then when it moves to the center of the bed it just curls, is it really the height? What are good increments to move it in?

>> No.1366824

>>1366683
>>1366684
Thanks guys, i will try to do it in this way

>> No.1366826

>>1366817
Maybe your bed isn't level, get a straight edge and see

>> No.1366832
File: 2.96 MB, 425x374, 61082b41002898b4be5478b7a347a3af.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1366832

>>1366817
I had the same issue. My roommate said some slicer programs ADD the "first layer height" setting to the regular layer height. I lowered this setting, and it resolved this issue. Prusa i3 Mk2 w/Slic3r, good luck.

P.S. Consider lowering print speed and increasing bed temp.

>> No.1367326

So a lot of the cheapy 3D printers offer weirdly large print volumes and the Original™ Prusa™ i3©Ѻ has always been 200x200x200 or thereabouts
is the larger print volume just a marketing thing 'bigger numbers look guys'?
does prusa stay around 200 because it's better for the printer/printed part to work at?

>> No.1367348

>>1367326
Larger numbers is pretty much a Bigger Numbers thing. If you need anything that's longer than 275mm (diagonal length of bed) you're probably going to split it into multiple parts anyway, so that extra 50mm won't do much. Plus, it's a bit harder to keep things stable and compact the larger you go (weight, deflection, etc.)

At least, that's what I go by. Other people might have different ideas.

>> No.1367371

>>1367326
To print something that takes up the majority of the Prusa's bed would take a print time of DAYS. You're technically supposed to keep a casual eye on the printers to ensure they don't go up in flames and take your house with it, or at least try to correct printing errors as they occur.
Once you hit print, you're kinda obligated to stay in that room till it is finished or fails. I'd rather cut massive objects down to print times of 3-6 hours rather than bet all my time and materials on one single print.

Bigger bed sizes are really just a gimmick with how easy it is to break a model into many parts. Found this out the hard way on one of my first prints. After keeping an eye on it for 9 hours, the filiment jammed without me realizing, and I didn't notice for another hour. By the time I caught on, I was out 10 hours of my time. Cut the object apart for future attempts, and now failure only costs me 3 hours.

>> No.1367411

For printing at high speed and high volume, is direct drive better than having the extruder somewhere on the frame and pushing filament through a teflon tube? The carriage would weigh much less without the stepper on it thus allowing higher print speed, but I'm wondering about the throughput, I want to use something like a 1-1.2mm nozzle with a vulcan block.

>> No.1367457

>>1367411
It really does make a bit of difference when printing at higher speeds (i.e: on corners and ghosting)

>> No.1367561
File: 80 KB, 733x550, 1931_15d185eaa7c954e77f5343d941e25fbd[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1367561

Is there a setting in cura to make the first couple layers horizontally smaller to combat elephant's foot? Trying to print parts with ABS and it's getting annoying having to sand the edges of everything.

>> No.1367563

>>1367411
Should just be a matter of adding enough stability and stepper power and you can make the print head as heavy as needed

>> No.1367572

>>1367563
I have quite a lot of both, but ideally I'd use that for extra speed(/quality) instead of extra weight. I think I'll try going bowden for now, since the way it's designed bowden is easier to add to the carriage.

>> No.1367575

>>1366475
ya, this worked. nice

>> No.1367577

>>1367561
Chamfer the edges if your models if you can (or at least chamfer the flat you plan on laying down on the bed).

>> No.1367598
File: 67 KB, 1024x962, 1514237939264.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1367598

>Few months ago buy the CR-10
>Assemble, calibrate, level the bed
>Read all manuals
>Check speed of the heating of the extruder and bed
>Get good CURA presets from the web
>It takes forever to start prinitng
>It's not the sensors nor the speed of the extruder and bed
>When it eventually starts printing it prints with huge clearance and I notice the famous uneven glass

>Life gets in the way, a good number of months pass

Now I feel like shit, this has been sitting in my room and I haven't had the time to properly go back at it (I have 2 jobs and I'm a uni student).
Am I a brainlet? am I missing something? I should check the warranty and send it back right?

I was so excited when I got it. This is the first time I got 30 minutes to get back at it...

>> No.1367600

>>1367561
In the most recent version of cura there is certainly a setting for that.

>> No.1367601

>>1367598
Btw i checked with 3 different SD cards and it made no difference, maybe it's the stolen gook Marlin... I really don't know where to go from here...

>> No.1367603

>>1367598
You mean that there is a big space between the nozzle and the glass? You can fix that by adjusting. Also, are you sure i'ts not just the nozzle heating up to operating temp that's taking so long?

>> No.1367604

>>1367601
>>1367598
Also, please post your print settings or try out a different slicer, maybe those presets were shit.

>> No.1367626

>>1367603
>>1367598
Yeah. It's totally normal for a printer to take a couple minutes to get up to temp before it starts moving for a print.

If it's taking more than a few minutes, your heated bed is probably underpowered for the temperature you set.

>> No.1367643

Anyone know about the electronics and firmware involved with IDEX setups? Do you need a duet for it or can it be done on a ramps with some expansion board? And what firmwares suport it?

>> No.1367731

>>1367604
>>1367626
>>1367603
Thank you so much guys, I'll try everything you mentioned out and get back to you as soon as I can

>> No.1367756

>>1367561
Slic3r prusa edition has a setting for that. Or you could chamfer the surface going on the bed. Or you could properly adjust your bed height.

>> No.1367827

>>1367600
Under what catagory? I had no luck finding anything.

>> No.1367853

>>1367827
First off you've gotta make it so that all of the settings are visible.

>> No.1367867
File: 2 KB, 406x27, 1513730324488.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1367867

how many years did this take

>> No.1367872

>>1367598

Sounds like the usual with cheaper DIY kits. Post pics of the issue

>> No.1368004

What is my best option if I want a cheap-ish printer with a big print volume? I like my Prusa, but it is too constraining sometimes.

>> No.1368007

Are Wanhao Duplicator 7's any good? I wanted to do DLP, and I am tempted to grab it over an Anycubic photon.

>> No.1368013
File: 1.68 MB, 2592x1936, IMG_3095.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1368013

I am enjoying the CR-10s I recently got, made a sign for work already.

>> No.1368018

>>1368013
That's gotta be the biggest waste of 3D printing technology lol

>> No.1368020

>>1368007
I watched sanladerer's 2.5 hour livestream of him setting it up and printing and it seems like a pretty decent printer
he printed on lowest settings so that he could print stuff in a reasonable time for the stream and his models were tiny but they still came out decent even at that
I would get it if I had the extra cash, but I know nothing of the photon to compare since none of my regular channels have done a video on it

>> No.1368024

>>1368007
Honestly for resin printers if it's not SLA just go for the cheapest one that isn't obviously shit

>> No.1368027
File: 134 KB, 728x546, 1463092479317.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1368027

>>1368013
>harbour freight
>Rick and Morty sign for work
>making a sign to hang up at your work

>> No.1368157

>>1368018
>>1368027
While i hate this meme cartoon, how is that sign any different from printing figures?
I think it is not.
Just admit it you hate that cartoon.

>> No.1368158

>>1368157
they're just meming him because it's become mainstream to like it and therefore it now scores negative 4chan points

>> No.1368177

Has anyone tried dutch filaments' PETG? I just saw that hobbyking sells some rebranded as their "premium filaments" at great prices. I tried DF PLA and am quite happy with it but never printed PETG

>> No.1368178

>>1368157
No one said printing figures isn't autistic

>> No.1368185

>>1368158
>it now scores negative 4chan points

It was hated on 4chan before it was popular, its drivel

>> No.1368187

>>1368004
If you've already got a printer, especially one as good as the Prusa you might want to look into building one by yourself. By now you ought to be pretty much aware of how printers operate and you don't really need more than that. If you build it by yourself you can probably make a pretty big printer for well under $200. All of the electronics are like $60 and then some linear rails for like another $60 and the frame for like $40 depending on what materials you decide to go with.

>> No.1368188

>>1368013
You ought to have used Cura feature called ironing, would have made those huge flat areas a lot nicer.

>> No.1368191

>>1368187
>big printer for well under $200
That's either super optimistic or for a super trashy printer. Even a /diy/ prusa clone will barely fit into $200, and large scale printers don't have conveniently available parts like alu heated beds.

>> No.1368248

>>1368191
Nah dude, you can get all of the proper electronics for the forementioned $60, add a $20 for better stepper drivers if you want to, and okayish linear rails for another $60 and after that it doesn't really matter as long as it is rigid, you could build a perfectly fine printer frame with scrap wood.

>> No.1368249
File: 1.52 MB, 3264x1836, 20180414_163628.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1368249

This is the end of my teflon tube, do you think that this could affect my print performance negatively? Should i re-cut the tip?

>> No.1368273

>>1368249
how hot did it get?

>> No.1368281

>>1368273
260C at most.

>> No.1368285

>>1368281
eh, I'd cut it

>> No.1368308
File: 430 KB, 2048x1152, heated bed.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1368308

>>1368249
It probably does, how hot are you printing? Are you using ABS or PETG with that teflon tube? Under PLA temperatures it usually doesn't degrade like that

BTW, made my own heated bed

>> No.1368311

>>1368281
Definitely too hot for PTFE

>> No.1368316

>>1368311
Yeah that temperature was just for when i was changing the nozzle, at that temperature the nozzle comes loose extremely easily even though it is rock solid at my ordinary printing temperature of 210C, i suppose i'll remove the teflon tube next time when swapping nozzles.

>> No.1368334

>>1368024
Aren't both the duplicator and photon SLA though? I will check their prices and probably go with whichever is cheaper. Thanks anon.

>> No.1368339
File: 197 KB, 1616x1212, Y test.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1368339

I'm building an i3, and $300 is probably the minimum.
Pic was a test circuit. I'm using the ramps board now to dabble with g-code. Fucking cool, I'm going to really enjoy this thing. Expecting the rest of the motors today!

motors 40
rods 60
electronics 30
hardware 20
bearings 10
linear bearings 10
hot end 10
power 20
belts,couplers,ect 10
cooling 10
heatbed 25
switches 5
=$250 + frame +misc (like power cords,zip ties,ect)

>> No.1368342

How actually explodey is the anet a8?

>> No.1368354

>>1368339

How are you going to run it off the Uno? That thing doesn't have enough memory to run Marlin

>> No.1368372

>>1368342
The big nasty with the A8 (and a bunch of chinkshit printers) is the safeties for thermal runaways are disabled in the stock firmware. So if you immediately reflash your firmware after you crack the box, they become far, far less dangerous.

>> No.1368381

>>1368339
I made a PCB with an Atmega328 and a slot for a Pololu driver stick just because I fucking hate protoboards

>>1368334
They're both LCD, but they're different. I'd go with a KLD1206 because that's the one I know in person.

>> No.1368408
File: 57 KB, 500x667, 1519169041462.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1368408

>>1368249
Expecting people to look at that piece of shit instead of judging your big fat soft unused hands.

>> No.1368418

Motors that came today were dissapointing. 2 lost in mail from open package, 2 are junk that won't even spin.
Can anyone recommend an ebay stepper seller that you've personally ordered from?

>>1368354
I was just toying around with programming
Have marlin working on a mega now

>> No.1368427

>>1368157
I don't hate the cartoon. I watched and enjoy it. What's meme is the fact you used a 3d printer to print a sign. If you're gunna do shit like that buy a CNC router or something. 3d printing a fucking sign is the dumbest shit ever lol

>> No.1368443

>>1368248
not that anon, but I finished a purely aliexpress/ebay cheapo copy of my prusa mk2 about a month ago and if I hadn't had to return my stepper motors the price was pretty close to 300 usd
it works fine aside from some low quality linear bearings but my frame is wood I already had so I didn't count that
If I had a bulk discount like the manufacturers of chinese printers had I could probably push it under 200 per unit

>> No.1368447

>>1368418
Robotdigg

>> No.1368454

hey guys, new to this and just have a quick question.

example. cr-10 comes with a 0.4mm nozzel

if i want to do a print with a layer height of 0.1mm am i correct in thinking i need to replace the nozzle with a 0.1mm one then?

or are these things able to somehow do that shit on the fly?

i mean im assuming i need to replace the nozzle but want to confirm before ordering. cheers

>> No.1368470

>>1368454
You dont need to replace it.
The extruded material through the nozzle will be squashed to the layer height. If you slice your model you set the layer height you want to have, and it will extrude the right amount. Nozzle diameter limits the maximum layer height and the minimal layer width.

Check these out:
http://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math
https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/what-3d-printer-nozzle-size-should-i-use-the-pros-and-cons

>> No.1368476

>>1368470
>>1368470

ah i see, thanks for the info and the links pal i really appreciate it

>> No.1368630

>>1368342
The first revision of the main board had terminals that were under rated for the bed, the new version is better but people still feel safer using a mosfet. The connector for the heat bed can't handle the movement so you will want to print off a strain relief. There is the bad default fw as stated above. My hot end came incorrectly pre-assembled which could lead to the heating element falling out. Individually they are slight problems, but all together it's basically a camp fire on your desk. Small improvements can make it perfectly safe though

>> No.1368673
File: 77 KB, 422x600, 1407475095274.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1368673

>need a non-standard replacement part
>contact company
>directed to american reseller
>contact reseller
>they never reply

o-ok

>> No.1368711

>>1368418
I got mine from stepper online. They have their website and an ebay store and I'm quite happy with mine

>> No.1368764
File: 6 KB, 200x165, ce.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1368764

>>1368418
>Can anyone recommend an ebay stepper seller that you've personally ordered from?


In the EU you just buy ones with these Stickers on them.

Means the manufacturers guaranteed them and they shouldn't burn your house down.

Not sure what the US does in relation to Chink shit.

>> No.1368765

>>1368764
>china export

>> No.1368767

>>1368673
What part tho?

>> No.1368769

>>1368764
Wantai
Overall good quality, also selling some of the motors directly from europe, they cost more, but it saves you from long delivery times and custom problems.

>> No.1368793

>>1368249

Just test the friction with some filament and judge yourself,but to be sure buy some teflon right now.

>> No.1368831

For things like toys, are 3d printed ones cheaper than mass produced ones?

>> No.1368855

>>1368831
"Toys" is an awfully vague thing to define when asking about cost, bro.

>> No.1368857

>>1368831
3d printers generally are shit for massproduction.
for a fully detailed explaination you need to say what kind of toy and what kind of 3d printer

>> No.1368861

>>1368831
The guy who makes the Caliburn nerf gun said it's cheaper for him to use a bunch of 3D Printers than to have the parts injection molded at the scale he's currently producing

>> No.1368913

>>1368249
>>1368316
>just for when i was changing the nozzle

I was gunna say I hope you aren't in the same room as your printer when it's that hot because it can be dangerous, but then I saw your 2nd post.

Enjoy your teflon fever
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polymer_fume_fever

>> No.1368921

>>1368913
According to that it needs to be heated to a temperature between 300 °C and 450 °C and i only heated it up to 260 °C.

>> No.1368922

>>1368831
Depends on scale.

>> No.1368936

>>1368831
As everyone echoed here: depends on scale.

>> No.1369040

>>1368248
Made mine out of salvaged Aluminium TV Aerials, Heavy duty draw slides and parts from old printers.

The frame was made from square PVC down pipe filled with cement and also some wood offcuts.

I barely care about 3d printing, but was given a Ramps Arduino Mega kit in like 2013 as a Christmas present and it'd been gathering dust for four years.

Got it to print a cube in December, haven't had the time to do anything since.

>> No.1369095

>>1368767
A few very specific lengths of flat cable and the main control board

>> No.1369367

>>1368673
Are you sure that other resellers don't exist, or if there are clones available from anyone?

>> No.1369438

>>1368765
Disproven, plus the shitty Chinese ones have different letter spacing

>> No.1369547

>>1368408
Dude what the fuck went wrong with your print there?

>> No.1369589
File: 1.02 MB, 1024x804, Jackscrew.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1369589

Does the amount of change in height of the jack stand correspond 1 to 1 to the revolutions of the screw or does it change at different time of extension? To me it seems that it would change at different times depending on how extended the jack is but i'm not quite sure. I was thinking of using this mechanism to lift and support the bed on a printer.

>> No.1369595

>>1369589

Didn't they have trig at your school, or are you not out of middle school, or what?

>> No.1369601

>>1369595
???

>> No.1369617

>>1369601

The question about the jack is a simple trig exercise. Most reasonably intelligent people took trig. Unless they're too young.

Get it now?

>> No.1369636

>>1369617
are you a literal autist?
cause you sound like a tard
if you ever touched one you can see that it goes up faster as it gets closer to the top
>suggesting some fucked up math equation to figure out what you can clearly see with your eyes

>> No.1369641

>>1369636
>goes up faster as it gets closer to the top
thats the opposit of what happens man at least think it trough before you yell at that math fag.

>> No.1369771
File: 54 KB, 540x960, 1468509795922.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1369771

>>1369641
>math fag.

sigh.

knowing trig makes me a math fag.

it's not like I was parading out linear algebra.

trig is fucking high school.

oh well. I love 4chan so I will handle this setback.

have some kayla while I recover

>> No.1369778

Brainlet here. How the fuck do you design stuff using Fusion 360?

>> No.1369785

>>1369778
>sketch
>extrude
>cut holes
>bevel edges
I'm not sure what part you're having issues with, elaborate a bit?

>> No.1369788

>>1369778
Search lars christensen on youtube, He's got enough stuff to keep you busy for a while.

>> No.1369800

>>1369785
Just using it in general. Only CAD I've had experience with is some SketchUp. Been messing around in 360 all day but all I've been able to make is little box things. How do you make circular shapes?

>>1369788
Awesome, thanks anon, will do.

>> No.1369811

>>1369800
>circular shapes
Most everything in Fusion 360 is based off sketches. You draw the shape you need (circle/arc) and extrude/revolve it around an axis to get the desired 3D shape. Reference geometry is something you might not have used in Sketchup (it's been quite a while, so I forget) but it's pretty much the center/axis of whatever action you're trying to do, like extrude along a line or revolve shapes around an axis, or mirroring on a reference plane.

>> No.1369814

>>1369811
Great thanks, I will try that. How do you round edges on things?

>> No.1369817

>>1369814
Fillet, click edge, type radius number, done.

>> No.1369821

>>1369817
>>1369814
Also, something I figured out after a bit of frustration is you CAN add more fillets after closing the tool initially, you just have to hold CTRL to select new edges.

>> No.1369826

>>1369821
Finally got it! Thanks anon, and sorry for the stupid questions. Is there a way you can modify the length, width, etc of things once you've made the shape? I can't figure out how to do it.

>> No.1369833

>>1369826
>stupid questions
Don't exist, everyone's a beginner at some point. Right-click the sketch name and hit Edit Sketch; if you mean inside a sketch, you have to dimension it. I forget where the button for it is but the hotkey is "D". Since F360 is a parametric program, you can edit most anything you do even way after you've done it, but keep in mind it might have unexpected consequences (like a hole being the wrong depth or a face being in the wrong place since its reference moved).

>> No.1369848

>>1369833
Been trying to figure that out for ages, thanks. Didn't even know there was an Edit Sketch option lol. Is it possible to make mechanisms with more than one part (like two pieces that clip together) in the same design file and see how and if they work? I'm trying to make a wrist strap thing so that would be really helpful.

>> No.1369850

>>1369848
I don't know about Fusion 360 specifically and how it's done but I know that it _can_ be done. Generally, they're called assemblies, and the way they're made is you make separate model files and then put them into one file called an "assembly" (at least, that's how it works in SolidWorks). Generally, any changes you make in the individual models show up in the assembly file.

>> No.1369988
File: 42 KB, 980x760, Form2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1369988

I'm considering making overpriced 3D printed keycaps to sell to redditors. Does the Form 2 have a high enough level of detail to pass close inspection? I know it's LOD is just about as good as it gets for any reasonably priced printer, but how good exactly is that? Can you still see the print lines?

>> No.1369998

>>1369988
Form 2 DEFINITELY has the res you need. Google examples, they're accurate.

>> No.1370037

>>1369771
>>1369617
>>1369595
Answer the question mr. Smart guy.

>> No.1370038

>>1369998
How noticeable are the print lines? We're talking about the kind of people who would buy a whole new $200 keyboard over a scratch, if it's obvious it was printed it'll feel cheap

>> No.1370042

>>1370038
Aren't you aupposed to paint them anyway? I mean if you do that, put on a base coat and all i can assure you no lines will show.

>> No.1370043

>>1370042
I think if I painted them it would rub off with alot of use. It'd be better to just print them in a solid black or white and leave them that way

>> No.1370044

>>1369800
See that little down arrow under the line button? Try giving it a tickle.

>> No.1370045

>>1370043
Ah i see, are you going to do anything to the surface? Sanding, polishing, etc.?

>> No.1370046

>>1370045
Not sure. Depends on how detailed it is. I might do some sort of acid bath or steel wool or something like that

>> No.1370047

>>1370046
While i don't really know a lot about those liquid based printers i'd think that a cloth buffing wheel + a dremel ought to be a pretty ok combination.

>> No.1370048

>>1370047
I can't imagine it would need much

>> No.1370049

>>1370048
Yeah

>> No.1370097

How do I clean the thick residue of gluestick from buildplate?

>> No.1370115

>>1370097
Hot water, you should have been able to figure this out yourself.

>> No.1370223

>>1370038
They're still a little noticeable DESU but some light post-processing should technically fix it (2000+ grit sandpaper)

>>1370042
>>1370043
If you end up painting them, I highly recommend coating them in transparent polyurethane spray, that stuff's meant for outdoor furniture and wears well (that is, it doesn't wear down).

>>1370097
Glass/removable pane? Take it off the bed. Builtin heatbed? You're boned, grab a spray bottle and a razor blade.

>> No.1370232

>>1370097
>Preheat bed to 60*c
>lay damp paper towel on top
>wait a few minutes
>wipe away with said paper towel
>repeat as needed

>> No.1370235
File: 545 KB, 1080x1920, kay_blonde.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1370235

>>1370037

NO. If you keep your grades up, they'll let you into Trig class in 3 or 4 more years.

>> No.1370309
File: 109 KB, 547x960, kayla_glasses.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1370309

lol. this is one slow fucking thread. just like that trig deprived kid.

>> No.1370310

>>1370038
>How noticeable are the print lines?
Not at all. I'd be more concerned using photopolymers with constant skin contact.

>> No.1370311

>>1370038
Order a sample from Formlabs.

>> No.1370312
File: 1.20 MB, 4032x3024, bC9ONRu[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1370312

>>1368861
>The guy who makes the Caliburn nerf gun said it's cheaper for him to use a bunch of 3D Printers than to have the parts injection molded at the scale he's currently producing
That's because I'm not selling enough of them over the course of a year to justify the cost of having molds made. Which gets way more expensive considering each product involves 20ish parts.

And customers clearly all want something slightly different so shifting to mass-production wouldn't be a net benefit to my sales anyways.

I expect to have sold 700 of them by the 1-year point in roughly June. The only room for me to expand my operation is to buy more tools to make hardware production more efficient, and to buy more printers to keep up with demand.

The biggest surprise at present it accessory orders. Those sell like mad and have almost no associated expenses compared to the blasters so my profit margin has jumped a lot in the past two months.

>> No.1370323

>>1370312
makes me wish I had

>> No.1370360
File: 39 KB, 1024x576, PIC0_530x@2x.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1370360

>>1369988
The general consensus seems to be that the Form 2 would be perfectly adequate for keycaps, but how about the Moai? It's less than half the price and has more flexibility for the resins, although I believe the layer lines are a little bit thicker. Anybody have some insight?

>> No.1370364

>>1370312
Do you offer the 3d files for personal use, or keep the designs to yourself to prevent competition?
That looks like it would be a fun project to print.

>> No.1370368

>>1370312
Couldn't you make the molds yourself? How much do the blasters cost btw?

>> No.1370376

>>1364971
Send corporate a memo saying they need to invest in cheap powder production or else their product will fail. Normies don't like to send emails asking incompetent firms to supply a small volume quote. Normies also don't understand metallurgy, so make sure you push something like powderized 304.
What is the work volume you're designing for?
Have you considered doubling up laser cutting capability?


>>1364980
>Is a metal print going to actually be more useful than a plastic printer?
Infinitely so. Viable end products are viable, and therefore have utility. If it's just metallic particles embeded in polymer, then it's a meme.

>will it actually be something you print brackets and bolts and even a gun that will be usable
Google DMLS


>>1365051
You're a niggerfaggot.

>> No.1370379

>>1370312
>That's because I'm not selling enough of them over the course of a year to justify the cost of having molds made.
You're incompetent. Just use a thermoset faggot.
https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/Fruity_Ghost___DIY_100s_of_ARs_cheaper__faster__gentler_/4-676733/

>> No.1370395

>>1370038
You can print at the highest resolution available for the Form 2, which is 25 microns. SLA's print lines are less noticeable than an equivalent layer height FDM print's lines - a .1mm layer height on a Form 2 needs almost no sanding so a .025 layer height can only be an improvement.

You can also soak the parts for an extra long time to dissolve the outer layer. I don't know if this works with IPA but it will work with a specialty cleaner called Yellow Magic 7

>> No.1370405

>>1370360
Moai is pretty good and more aimed towards the hobbyist side, IE bounce around from a software that does supports, like b9 creator / meshmixer to using a custom fork of cura, no auto feed for resins.

But that being said, it does have better XY resolution then the form2, and a finer laser dot size, so it should be able to do finer details, the resins are cheaper.

Far as form2 vs moai, depends on what features are a must for you, and how many pieces you are printing within a day/ week.

>> No.1370408
File: 76 KB, 800x450, maquette.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1370408

>>1370379
speaking of that has anyone here every printed something to be used as a pattern for a silicone mould?
I'd like to think it would work reasonably well but I've never used silicone before

>> No.1370428

>>1370408
I have, it works just fine, but you'll pick up layer lines if you don't sand them down (obviously).

>> No.1370436

>>1370428
I suppose if you want a really good mould you could just go
make mould with print->cast more easily workable part with mould->finish part->make final mould
but that seems like a waste of materials compared to just printing a little oversize in some spots and finishing it from there before moulding

>> No.1370439

>>1370428
Do 3D printed parts of pla stick to silicone in any way/need a release agent?

>> No.1370440

>>1370436
If one had the budget for it, that's probably the best option. Use like plaster or wax or just regular resin for the intermediate part.

>>1370439
I used ABS and forgot to put on a release agent but the printed part came back out of the silicone easily. I can't imagine PLA would be any worse.

>> No.1370444

>>1370379
>calling the best guy in the history of 3dp incompetent

>> No.1370446

>>1370444
A spade is a spade

>> No.1370452

>>1370312
what accessories are most popular?

>> No.1370459

>>1370405
I thought the Moai could only go down to 0.067 while the Form 2 could go to 0.025 (on some resins)
The most important thing is making prints that don't look like prints. According to maths we'd only need to sell 40 caps to make back the money spent on the printer, not factoring in cost of resins. So it wouldn't be super high production, but it needs to print as many as will sell.

>> No.1370461

>>1370459
I could be miss remembering for the moai, but like the form 2 it depends on the resin.

Definitely factor in the costs of the resins with a markup, you'll have a good ROI for the form 2.
Far as post processing, to help cut back on finishing times, look into a ultrasonic cleaner with magic yellow 7, after that dip the part into some IPA and give it a good swish around, do what ever paint and blah blah a few good coats of clear coat / thinned xtc3d or bjb's tc-1614. Really do thin it out so it, so parts don't lose detail, and that way after a coat or two it doesn't wear down the keycap as fast and don't have customers bitching you out after a month or two.

>> No.1370464

Does it really matter what brand of brass .4mm nozzle I get? Surely a cheap one isn't much worse than an expensive one?

>> No.1370465

>>1370459
Also depending on your budget, you might want to take a look at the objet 24 / 30 and the MJP 2500

Granted, those machines are very pricey, but they are meant for scale production + go down to 16 micron layer heights.

Objet24 starts around 25k empty, the MJP starts at 36k empty. Might be something to consider after getting stellar sales for the keycaps.

>> No.1370467

>>1370465
I doubt we'll get up to that scale of production, but if we do I'll be sure to keep it in mind. Thanks

>> No.1370507

>>1370459
Are you seriously going to be selling *keyboard caps* for almost $90 each?

I don't know if I'm more disappointed in people buying them for that much or in people selling them that high.

>> No.1370510

>>1370507
$90? The Moai is $1,250 and custom keycaps sell for $30-$40/ea. 1250 divided by 30 is 41.7. People actually buy these things at $40, I don't know why. Blame reddit.

>> No.1370512

>>1370510
Whoops, I was going off of the Form 2 price.

>> No.1370513

>>1370510
Form 2 is $3,500 and it wasn't clear which printer you meant

>> No.1370514

>>1370510
>People actually buy these things at $40,

Not cheap 3d printed ones

>>1370507
The overwhelming majority of novelty keycaps are in the $10-20 range, and they are hand molded small batches. Or they are group buys from a chinese factory with a logo or image shot into it.

>> No.1370516

>>1370513
I was talking about the Moai in that post so I thought it was implied.

>>1370514
That's the point. They can't look like they've been printed

>> No.1370521
File: 125 KB, 800x600, rs3_89[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1370521

>>1370364
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2376150
>>1370368
>Couldn't you make the molds yourself?
Silicone is expensive. Tool steel is expensive. Equipment that can produce parts at these relatively large cavity volumes is also really expensive.

I started the design with casting and injection molding in mind, but the labor involved upfront is huge. Pic related are the first 3 I produce via casting. They were significantly more labor-intensive to produce than the printed versions because I had to pressure-cast them, clean off the flash, then drill the pilot holes to size.
>How much do the blasters cost btw?
$59 for the Hardware Kit so you can print one yourself.
$110 as a complete kit
$140 assembled
>>1370379
>Just use a thermoset faggot.
I'm not trying to produce ONE PART in quantity. I have to produce 20+ parts at quantity. That's the problem. The investment cost of a single mold I can stomach should I want to reproduce one part that I don't need to revise anymore. But I don't have enough cash/credit or enough comfort with the kind of investment risk involved in getting 20+ molds produced. Printing allows me to completely avoid the financial risk/gamble of tooling costs.

>> No.1370524

>>1370521
tastes really good

>> No.1370525
File: 1.25 MB, 4032x3024, l7FKm1P[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1370525

>>1370452
>what accessories are most popular?
Foregrips, Muzzle Devices, cosmetic parts

>> No.1370530

>>1370521
>But I don't have enough cash/credit or enough comfort with the kind of investment risk involved in getting 20+ molds produced.
It's silicon. You're looking at like a cost of a dollar in exchange for production time on the scale of minutes instead of hours, and none of the inherent weakness of printing.

>> No.1370532

>>1370439
Someone's making dildoes.

>> No.1370536

>>1370532
I wish
I haven't got the nose for mercantile to sell them and using a dildo requires too much cleanup

>> No.1370541
File: 140 KB, 800x600, rs3_95[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1370541

>>1370530
>and none of the inherent weakness of printing.
The resins you cast into silicone have the same impact rating as PLA. They're also more expensive than you would think. And that's ignoring how expensive silicone gets when you're trying to make larger molds.
The impact rating of a given resin also degrades as soon as you add pigment or don't casting them under constant heat and pressure. I did okay with pressure, but didn't get to the point of having a pressure oven.
>You're looking at like a cost of a dollar in exchange for production time on the scale of minutes instead of hours
Find me a resin with a cure time under 2 hours that has an izod rating above 2. And then I'll have to let you know that the cure times are assuming a given volume for the resin that is one sixth that of the parts I would need to be casting so that number doesn't actually indicate how long my parts would need to cure.

The resin systems I tried stated "1 hour" of cure time, but they use heat to cure and as the volume of the part increases so too does the time it takes for the part to stop producing and losing that heat. My casting schedules ended up closer to 8 hours per mold set in order to prevent part distortion after being freed from the molds. Going shorter than that timeframe would have required a pressure oven.

This isn't territory I haven't already explored. I started with casting and it simply did not work out. Yes, I was able to produce more parts in a weekend through casting than I could through printing. However, I had to invest way more labor in that timeframe to produce those parts. So if printing were to catch up all I had to do was just buy more printers.

>> No.1370543

>>1370521
>link

Thanks, amigo. It looks like the link also answers any other questions I may have had. If I can't source my own parts, I may hit you up for a kit.

>> No.1370545

>>1370541
>The resins you cast into silicone have the same impact rating as PLA.
Yeah... But you can't just use the bulk properties for something that has been 3d printed. It doesn't work like that.

>> No.1370549

>>1370525
>those artifacts on the muzzle attachment
People pay for that quality?

Fuck if youre struggling to keep up with ribbing like that I bet I could sell lithophanes for $40.

>> No.1370607

>>1370464
Yea, who cares if it actually comes out at .5 because it's cheap, we aren't dealing in millimeters here

>> No.1370608

>>1370530
>a dollar
How much do you think proper casting silicone costs? This isn't bathroom caulk like that other guy is trying to use.

>> No.1370638

>>1370436


On the flipside of wasting materials, has anyone tried just printing a negative and thus skipping the mould entirely? It might be easier to pour some coating in there that would hide the layer lines.

>> No.1370720

>>1370638
Sometimes you can do that, sometimes no. Unless you're splurging for flexible filament or casting a flexible material, you're making a rigid mold (which means no overhangs). Generally I would say anything you would care about seeing the layer lines you would want to print & finish normally, then make a mold.

>> No.1370747
File: 56 KB, 491x585, 1509408415064.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1370747

>>1370607
Sarcasm doesn't usually come through text posts but I think I detect some here

>> No.1370826

Hi guys,
I recently re-activated my bed autoleveling (had disabled it for no particular reason) when I updated marlin to 1.1.8
But the issue is that on every layer, every move is cut down into 4mm ones, which makes the printer super slow (since it trigers acceleration), vibrate more and print artefacts . Is this normal or am I missing out on something ?
I'm using a manual mesh bed technique with a 4x4 grid
Thanks bros

>> No.1370948

>>1370545
>It doesn't work like that.
In practice I had a much higher failure rate with cast parts. Both in production and end-user experience. Replacing the printed parts is way less of a time investment on my part too.

I've tried both production methods and casting is great for producing art objects at quantity or things with small details that printing can't do.

Most of my parts are well outside of that niche.
>>1370549
>People pay for that quality?
Well I'm drowning in sales, so yeah.

>> No.1370953

>>1370948
Are you just printing fast as fuck?

Far I as know you own a few Lulzbot and Prusa printers, they should be capable of way better quality than that?

>> No.1371014

>>1370953
Those ribbings are clearly a result of a messed up z screw or something, i suspect it's a result from one of his earlier monoprice minis or whatever.

>> No.1371033

>>1371014
Guess I didnt know he started with low end printers.

>> No.1371058

Nearly total Newb here.

Suggest random stuff for me to print.

Got a 3d printer as a gift from brother and it came with purple filament.

>> No.1371059

>>1371058
https://www.thingiverse.com has a lot of models, if you haven't been there yet. Not all of them are ready for printing and there might be some trash in your search results, but they're generally okay.

>> No.1371090

>>1371058
>>1365075
>https://my.mixtape.moe/lxwuvv.zip

>> No.1371141
File: 200 KB, 780x585, IMG_20180316_121221926[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1371141

>>1370953
>Far I as know you own a few Lulzbot and Prusa printers, they should be capable of way better quality than that?
That's all I'm using now. I have 5 currently but need to order a 6th soon. Shit happens when you're printing 24/7 on multiple printers.
>>1371014
>Those ribbings are clearly a result of a messed up z screw or something
That print run probably just had a poorly adjusted extruder tensioner. Or the hobbed bolt teeth were full of shit.
>>1371033
>Guess I didnt know he started with low end printers.
I had three of them for a few months to get through a holiday order rush. They didn't last very long and drove me bonkers.

>> No.1371143

>>1371141
what is your favorite printer to work with so far for making your product?

>> No.1371170

>>1365307
Get sf-1 bushings from Aliexpress and never look back

>> No.1371217

What's the cheapest printer that can reliably print in ABS (heated bed + enclosure)?

>> No.1371219
File: 93 KB, 1200x812, soft-enamel-pin-psd-mockup.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1371219

What program should I use to make vector files into 3d objects?
As an experiment I want to see how it turns out if you print the base of an enamel pin and paint it with nail polish.

>> No.1371221

>>1371219
Fusion 360

>> No.1371222

>>1371219
Blender works pretty good, you can import an SVG and extrude it

>> No.1371239
File: 1.18 MB, 4032x3024, Jxi4UnI[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1371239

>>1371143
Lulzbot mini is the most solid, most reliable, and the easiest to use for production.

I might have voted for the Makergear M3 given how accurate and sturdy it is, but I kind of hate the extruder setup on it (switching filament on it is annoying), the kapton tape is fragile, and it's way overpriced for the age of its design.

>> No.1371290
File: 580 KB, 1124x818, 23434039873.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1371290

>>1371222
>>1371221
Figured out how to get good results.
This isn't what I'll test print but now I can apply it to any vector.
In illustrator, turn any paths into outlines, merge all outlines.
Couldn't figure out how to fill in the base from a line drawing so I made two versions in illustrator, one with lines and one that fills in the whole outline.

>> No.1371305
File: 99 KB, 640x640, RAMPS 1.4.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1371305

Hey lads, will I damage a RAMPS board if I power it up with no hardware? I want to test each of the stepper drivers/sockets individually but don't want to risk plugging them all in at the same time. I don't have an extruder, heatbed, thermistors, or limit switches hooked up. The only thing I know for sure is I run the risk of killing it, the driver, and possibly the stepper if I try hooking up the stepper when the board is on.

>> No.1371320

>>1371305
It'll be fine running without stuff hooked up
Side note, don't wire your endstops backwards that'll kill the board too

>> No.1371321

>>1371320
Wait how do you wire endstops backwards? Theyre just a switch, aren't they?

>> No.1371341

>>1371321
there are 3 pins for each end stop, one is sense, one is ground, one is 5V (not in that order, look it up), it is possible to short the ground and 5V connection, when you wire it up wrong, which will either fry the voltage regulator chip or the microcontroller, dunno which one it was.

>> No.1371353

>>1371341
Wait, aren't the pins wired so that when the switch is pressed it just cjanges the pin that the third pin is in contact with? So the wiring has to be done so that the third pin is connected and the pin that is npt by default connected to the third is also connected? Or did i just repeat what you said? I don't know that much about electronics.

>> No.1371355
File: 1.84 MB, 3264x1836, 20180419_134907.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1371355

What's the cause of this? Partially clogged nozzle? I mean the filament is not grinding at all and the stepper is not missing steps i swear.

>> No.1371362

>>1371341
Depends how you power the board and the quality of the arduino under: on the genuine ones, there's a usb resetable fuse which will triger at 2 amps. I have mine running of a PC / wall socket and cut the Vin pin on the RAMPS so that the only current that will go in the board pases through the fuse. It saved me a couple times. If you're not sure what you're doing, I recommend you do the same

>> No.1371364

>>1371355
Clogged nozzle, filament spool not being able to turn correctly, unsuficient amps for the extruder motor, not enough/too much tension on the idler or steps/mm incorrect. What are you using for the drive gear? Also, if bowden check that the filament can move freely in the ptfe line

>> No.1371381

>>1371355
It's under-extrusion for one reason or another. You don't provide enough info to say why.

>> No.1371389

>>1371353
the idea behind it is an extra failsafe that isnt in use, but could be activated in most 3d printers firmware. how this is supposed to work: you got the 3 pins on the board; ground, 5v, sense. you got 3 wires going to the endstop, the endstop is a switch, meaning it either connects sense to 0V or 5V. when sense notices that it aint conected to one of those states it could give off an error warning, that something is wrong, most likely a cable is broken or the switch is working properly.
what you instead got on almost all printers is the firmware checking if sense is conected to 5V when the endstop is pressed, which honestly isnt really a big problem for 99% of all 3d printer usecases, since things dont really break when the steppers hit the physical end of one rail.

>> No.1371522
File: 2.09 MB, 3264x1836, 20180419_202223.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1371522

Oh yeah i suppose the pinion was slipping afterall, i tightened the spring by quite a lot and now there seems to be no issue.

>> No.1371525

>>1371320
>>1371321
>>1371353
The endstops on both my printers are just two wires, so I guess it varies depending on what you have. I don't know what the benefit would be of using 3 wires instead of checking continuity / "is this connected", really

>> No.1371552

>>1371305
>Hey lads, will I damage a RAMPS board if I power it up with no hardware?
Long answer is no, but some stepper motor drivers will promptly die if you try to use them with no motor attached

>> No.1371553

>>1371305
Also yes if you turn the board on and plug a stepper motor while the driver is supposed to be suppplying current to one of the coils you'll likely kill it. I killed a few drivers myself by doing that.

>> No.1371554

>>1371320
>>1371552
>>1371553
Swell, thanks. I'll give a go this evening and see how it turns out.

>> No.1371563
File: 447 KB, 522x400, GT2560.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1371563

Is this board actually good?

>> No.1371669

I asked my friend for an object and he handed me the gcode file and said he hadn't saved the stl he generated it from
Does gcode work regardless of the printer you use it on?

He has an original prusa i3 mk2 and I only have an Anet a8 until they start shipping more waves of mk3 and I get mine
I would prefer not to wait for that just to print this

>> No.1371694

>>1371669
Try it and find out. Isn't the A8 a clone of the prusa? Should be fine.

>> No.1371697

>>1371669
If it is ordinary reprap compatable stuff gcode will work. Though that particular code might not be tailored to fit all of the quirks of your printer so beware.

>> No.1371700

>>1371694
Well unless I can convert from gcode to model I guess I'll just have to chance it
>>1371697
Yeah I'll keep an eye on it
I just know that I know nothing about gcode so hopefully it doesn't print weird

>> No.1371771

>>1371669
Skim the first and last 10 lines before printing, that's where stuff like temps and cooling settings should be. If you don't know the commands then reference this: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code

>> No.1371783
File: 33 KB, 278x260, thumbsup.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1371783

>>1371771
Cool, that should help a lot
I'm not going to print it until my filament arrives so I'll have a few days to learn

>> No.1371798
File: 60 KB, 300x279, 1472245313503.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1371798

When I turn on my printer, only the power supply and an LED on the main control board turn on, nothing else powers up. Not the touchscreen, not the lighting, not the stepper motors or SD card reader.

Does it sound like my control board is fucked?

>> No.1371816

>>1371563
it suffers from the same chinky issues as other boards.
the heatbed mosfet gets to be around 90c during the warming phase.

Have i had issues with it?
personally no, it works fine for my shitty printer.
But, its pretty much identical to a ramps, just in one board.

if you're replacing a board, or building a scratch kit, raise your budget, or just settle with the ramps.

standard caution should be applied for sketchy electronics.

>> No.1371840

>>1371798
Do you know how to troubleshoot?
also yes, probably
if you had the dosh to spend I would suggest getting a new one and then trying it out if you don't have the tools to troubleshoot properly
It's more likely that the single point of failure that fucks everything died than everything decided to give up at once

>> No.1371848
File: 1.25 MB, 1200x800, bcn3d-sigma-dual-extruder-r17-1-k-196808-en.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1371848

>>1371840
I can troubleshoot mechanical issues all day but I'm lost when it comes to electronics issues, unfortunately.

It's a unique board (a BCN3D Sigma) and I'm trying to get one directly from them or possibly through MatterHackers, though there are a few spare boards for sale around the internet for like $160 + international shipping. I can afford it, but just barely. If the printer itself wasn't so expensive I'd just save up and buy a different, cheaper, mid-range printer.

>> No.1371861

>>1371848
dang dude
I wish you well, that doesn't look to my untrained eyes like a standard reprap mainboard

>> No.1371865
File: 323 KB, 2000x1430, bcn3d-main-electronic-board-for-sigma-1-k-212785-en.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1371865

>>1371861
deffo not

>> No.1371879

In a previous thread, someone mentioned smoothing their ABS prints by brushing on acetone
Acetone vapor smoothing sure, but how well does brushing it on work? Doesn't everything gum up and smear everywhere?

>> No.1371917

https://ohai.lulzbot.com/group/hibiscus-beta/

looks like a new lulzbot mini getting ready for release soon.

Biggest highlights, belted Z, new control board, lcd screen, aerostruder mini and the upgraded bed they released not long ago.

>> No.1371959

>>1371917
>belted z-axis
It is an interesting solution and i cant say i hate it.

>> No.1371962 [DELETED] 

Anyone here have experience with PyCNC? I've got the board set up and put a single stepper driver on it but it's not moving when I input G1 Z10. I can't find any info about troubleshooting it and don't know how to even test if it sees the board(s).

>> No.1371966
File: 42 KB, 800x267, PyCNC.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1371966

Anyone here have experience with PyCNC? I've got the board set up and put a single stepper driver on it but it's not moving when I input G1 Z10. I can't find any info about troubleshooting it and don't know how to even test if it sees the board(s).

>> No.1371969

>>1371966
Also, it doesn't throw out any errors if the RAMPS board is unpowered, it just says "OK" no matter what G1 I give it.

>> No.1372009
File: 76 KB, 640x640, 29714596_361486781024208_3140715850474979328_n.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1372009

How come there aren't many DIY/Opensource SLA printers out there? The Bill of Materials for making a DLP one should be pretty cheap as it's just an LCD panel, UV lamp and a single axis of motion... What am i missing here? The resin is not much more expensive than "premium filament"...

>> No.1372012

>>1372009
What's the tolerances on those things?
also I think there was quite a bit more R&D put in by amateurs over the years on fdm 3D printers and therefore more googlable resources even if a lot of links are dead or outdated

>> No.1372017

>>1372012

No idea, but they should be pretty tight - like i said it's only 1 axis of motion and since it's the Z axis its mass doesn't affect anything. The fidelity of the prints ought to depend on the resolution of the screen, which is from a smartphone. I doubt the Wanhao D7 uses anything more special than that. Looks like the person who made the printer in the photo was even able to make most of the structural components on an FDM printer since the build area of DLPs is so small.

>> No.1372025

>>1372009
Have you got a link to that design?

>> No.1372026

>>1372009
>>1372017
>smartphone
wait, how tf do SLA printers even work again?

>> No.1372030

>>1372025

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2749678

There are also a few other designs like it on thingiverse:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680172
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1745558

>>1372026

You remove the backlight from an LCD screen and shine a UV light through it instead. You get the screen to display a black and white image so the black parts are masked off and the white parts get cured by the light. That's how DLP-type SLA printers like the Wanhao D7 work. The more expensive Formlabs ones use a laser, which i'm guessing cures the resin faster and doesn't require a long exposure time for each layer like DLPs.

>> No.1372031
File: 168 KB, 1024x768, f8d43dafbcde57a3b8817a95b75ebbf1_display_large.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1372031

>>1372030

Btw the link has youtube vids on building it and pic related is a Benchy made with it

>> No.1372032

>>1372030
is the limit on these printers not bed size but weight?
I can't imagine that without some sort of bracing structure or a magic way of having the pool of resin inverted you would be able to get very big prints

>> No.1372033

>>1372032

I don't get what you mean, the resin vat just lays flat on the bottom and the print is "lifted out" of it like a crane. The only weight you're dealing with is the weight of the print, and the Z axis is sturdy enough to handle that. I think the main limitation is the bed size as you would need not only a large high-res screen but more importantly a uniform UV light that's able to cure the layers evenly.

>> No.1372034

>>1364963
what do you do with your 3d printers, anons? I'm thinking about getting one but I don't know what I would do with it. And I don't need yet another dust catcher :[

>> No.1372036

>>1372034
If you don't know what to do with it you probably shouldn't get it. I was fantasizing about what i would do if i just would have had a printer for like two years before i actually got one.

>> No.1372040

>>1372033
Well I mean the adhesion of the part to the bed
on "rightside up" printers the weight pushes down on the bed and as long as your print head doesn't push the thing over or it is imbalanced it can be as heavy as you want within the build volume
in this no matter how much your bed motors can lift if the part gets too heavy to adhere to the bed lifting it the part will just fall down as far as I can tell
it may not be the main practical limit considering what you point out but that's what sprang to my mind

>> No.1372063

>>1372040

Hm i never though about bed adhesion, i imagine that since you're curing the resin for the whole layer at once that it gets into all the imperfections of the buildplate and sticks pretty well. Bed levelling is much easier as you just press it down to the bottom of the vat and then tighten the plaform so it doesnt tilt from that position.

>> No.1372115

>>1372009
They aren't too rare. See buildyourownsla.com
There just aren't many established designs to build. Imo this is because they are simple enough to design yourelf so people like me just do it but never take the time to document it.
I've done the owl in the OP next to the exotic fruit with my build.

>> No.1372325

I was thinking of buying Form 2 from formlabs.

Anyone got any experience on it, I actually managed to get some intel from a rival company that is using formlabs to print machine parts, that we're machining, machining is fine and good, but it takes long and 3D printing might be answer we need to create solid machine parts, without needing to clamp two heavy metal pieces together for the internal cavities.

The company I work with makes parts for prosthetics, tiny titanium bits that have many different shapes and they all need to follow a compact line, while still staying aligned.

What are some other options for a relatively affordable high accuracy 3dprinter with good enough surface quality, that closed cavities will work out of the printer.

I plan on getting the printer, and if the parts are good enough, I will sell them to the company I work with and cover the cost of the printer that way. I also have several prototypes that I want to make with it.

>> No.1372345

>>1372115

Great link, thanks! I wonder why people don't document it much, back in the early reprap days everyone was trying to build and improve upon one design (mendel). Maybe it's because you don't normally use SLA prints for functional parts and because they cost more to make.

>> No.1372352

>>1371865
>2018
>ftdi chip

>> No.1372363

>>1372325
I know someone who has used a Form 2 and said he wouldn't want one even if it was for free. He uses something equivalent to the Wanhao D7, which you can upgrade with a different operating system and a 4k lcd.

>> No.1372372

>>1372363
>which you can upgrade with a different operating system and a 4k lcd.

Cool, but not really what I am interested in.
Do you remember what his problems with the form 2 were?

>> No.1372610

>>1368308
Neato, how even is the heating?

>> No.1372611

>>1371239
Thanks shinji, almost forgot my daily dose

>> No.1372783
File: 3.85 MB, 4608x3456, DSCN2596.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1372783

R8 my machine /3DPG/

>> No.1372865

Am i a madman for trying to print ABS without a heated bed? I figured that if i just apply a sufficient amount of glue stick it ought to be just fine.

>> No.1372876

>>1372783
more like 3dpd, but looks don't matter as much as results.

>> No.1372878

>>1372783
I didn't know horizontal 3D printers existed.

>> No.1372963

>>1372878
i think he lives on the equator

>> No.1373005

>>1372783
>Still using Windows XP in 2018

Just install Linux, Vertical Linux...

>> No.1373007

>>1372865
Anon use ABS juice. That is a common trick with unheated bed printers. Of course nice to have would be enclosure

>> No.1373167

Just started my 3D printing journey Friday, got a QIDI Tech 1 and am fucking impressed what $639.00 dollars gets you with it. Been digging PLA for models and ABS for all my tool prints.
Bought Simply3D software and love it so far.

Only issue is ABS sticking to the plate like a absolute motherfucker. Even if I pull up the plate sticker, I can get the part up where the ABS base is. So I'm getting magnetic bed stickers.

I fucking love this hobby.

>> No.1373170

>>1373167
What factors led you to choose QIDI's printer?

>> No.1373172

>>1373167
Price to performance/feature ratio. I was gonna pick that or the Flashforge Creator Pro, but the extra features didn't justify paying 250 dollars more. Plus everyone who owns a QIDI products says the customer service is second to none, even if it is a Chinese company.

Plan on upgrading when I can design and print in my sleep.

>> No.1373173

>>1373170
this

>> No.1373174

>>1373172
Whoops, Obviously for:
>>1373170

>> No.1373179

>>1373172
could have bought http://a.co/bIMJ9aL
that's essentially what the 1 is (x1 is ok with servicing combo for what it is I guess)

>> No.1373181

>>1373179
>http://a.co/bIMJ9aL
Yeah I could have, but that didn't ever show up in any of my searches lol. I wonder why...

>> No.1373185
File: 28 KB, 218x300, laughing elf man.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1373185

>>1373167
>buying simplify3d

>> No.1373187

>>1373185
Awww man I was hoping this thread would be filled with more people with information like >>1373179
and not people like you. Dang it.

>> No.1373189

>>1373172
Did you ever consider the original Prusa i3?
all I have right now is an inherited reprap and I was wondering if your thoughts were on that one since it seems to have me fixated
I had never heard of QIDI until now

>> No.1373190

>>1373187
Stick around long enough and you'll find some useful info. There's always elitists of some form or another everywhere, you just learn to filter them

>> No.1373198

>>1373179
man, that price

>> No.1373247

>>1373172
>Plus everyone who owns a QIDI products says the customer service is second to none, even if it is a Chinese company.

That sounds a lot like an ad... Like when everyone was shilling the Anet A8 when it's no different than any other chinese i3

>> No.1373258

>>1373005
It's a P4 with 32 bit support, and slic3r is only available on 64 bit linux. I have tried ubuntu but found it slower than XP, a pain to install anything (no time to learn) and for slicing and controling a printer, XP does the job

>> No.1373286

Alright, i give up, printing ABS on an unheated bed with a shitty ass enclosure is proving to be very troublesome even with high amounts of gluestick. What heated bed would you guys suggest? Preferably something that just plugs into the ports on my board and is not too much bigger than 150x150mm.

>> No.1373361

>>1372865
Print on an acrylic sheet

>> No.1373364
File: 57 KB, 1000x563, qidi-technology-x-one-3d-printer-tobuya3dprintercom.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1373364

>>1373189
>I had never heard of QIDI until now
Naomi Wu reviewed one of them some time ago

I looked ugly as fuck but being the typical replicator 2 clone it probably works

>> No.1373367
File: 35 KB, 600x600, 4cd9a73c-2386-4fd4-8e3a-d45ae5276f4f.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1373367

>>1373364
>it looked ugly
Fix'd

>> No.1373372

>>1373364
I thought she was a meme
All I've heard of her in my short time on /3dpg/ is that she uploaded a 3d model of her in a bikini and she has no detectable ass

>> No.1373373

>>1373372
>I thought she was a meme
Idk about the meme, but shes a phony for sure.

>> No.1373380
File: 302 KB, 750x750, -font-b-3D-b-font-font-b-printer-b-font-of-high-precision-SLA-photosensitive.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1373380

>>1372372
It's more mechanically complex (so if it malfunctions you'll have to wait until Formlabs solves it, and in a third world country this is a very serious issue) and the result isn't that much different from say a Wanhao D7 or a KLD (which are basically the same). The advantage of LCD is that since it doesn't have to move or focus (like a laser galvo), you'll have no issue at all with precision, accuracy or backlash of any sort. There are some LCD printers which come with a ballscrew and quality linear rail, and since they're all standard parts or clones following standards they're upgradeable (not that it makes much difference). Get one of them and an ultrasonic cleaner (the kind used to clean PCBs) and you're pretty much all set.

The resolution on even unmodded ones is good enough for most jewelry, for even finer details you'd need something with a projector that can change the focal distance. Just draw a cad file and display it on your cellphone. That's the amount of detail you can get from a LCD printer since the screen is usually the same.

>> No.1373457
File: 254 KB, 1536x1004, IMG_20180422_122536.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1373457

>>1372325
A Form2 is really nice for miniatures and detailed models, but for relatively simple mechanical parts it seems like it's overkill. It's also fairly restrictive since you have to use their resins (which are $175 USD per liter for the "engineering" resins) and software. If you can afford a Form2 easily then go for it, otherwise a cheaper SLA printer would be fine. Or consider FDM printing with nylon.

>> No.1373507
File: 6 KB, 400x400, tegaki.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1373507

where's the knee?

>> No.1373512

>>1373507
tevo tornado and cr10
just wait for gearbest sale desu, got a tornado for 280 euro

>> No.1373513

>>1373507
the cheapest usable sla printer is my margin

>> No.1373518

>>1373507
wherever the same print of a knee starts to become indistinguishable from more expensive prints

>> No.1373541

>>1373457
>but for relatively simple mechanical parts it seems like it's overkill.

Ah, but this is the thing. the parts aren't really that simple, we need chutes that will turn small pieces around and allign them right away as they travel down by gravity, and it has to happen inside the cavity in the material.

It's not actually simple, the surface quality needs to be excellent for cavities inside the model, where you can't get to. If this goes to plan, the company will pay me for the prototyping the chutes and then invests in 3D printing.

>> No.1373545

>>1373541
Maybe you want a Fuse 1 instead.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BALUeGV57dE

I know I want one.

>> No.1373548

>>1373541
>chutes that will turn small pieces around and allign them right away as they travel down by gravity
???
How does gravity figure into this at all? Are you talking about liquid trapped in internal cavities when the model lifts up?

>> No.1373672

>>1373548
The chute will have a spiral in the middle that will turn the part around when it travels to next section.

It will then get thinner, to turn the part sideways, that way it will be correctly alligned when it comes out from the chute.

Right now we have an engineer trying to do it with cameras and just using air to blow out parts that are not alligned right way up. He is an idiot, because that will discard 50% of the parts coming from manufacturing back into the collecting plate, to try to exit to next station again.

Also it is monstrously expensive to do on 20 machines, and it will make them slower.

>> No.1373858
File: 259 KB, 2048x1536, spacegun.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1373858

getting pretty fancy with this shit

>> No.1373971

>>1373858
About how much filament do you think it takes to complete one of those?

>> No.1374073

>>1373971
500 grams for the base parts. No more than 400 grams for accessories.

>> No.1374130

Kek new ultimaker, slightly bigger, a touch screen, doors installed already rather then diy.....

Only asking 6k, jeez if your trying to push for the professional market ultimaker, maybe try getting it a little bit lower? At that price your like 3k shy away from an f170.

>> No.1374278

>>1374130
They're seriously trying to push an FDM machine for $6k?? I can MAYBE understand an FDM printer for 2k, but what even justifies the additional 4k?

>> No.1374298

>>1374278
The brand name covers at least 50% of the price

>> No.1374307

>>1374130
There a service warranty that comes with that? Sounds right if you can put in a call and have a tech come fix it if something goes wrong.

>> No.1374309

>>1374307
Nope no service other phone + chat and you do it yourself
I know for a lot of the true industrial machines, it's like 2k - a hell of a lot per year for service, where they have someone on a plane coming to fix your machine.

>>1374278
Seems like they are trying to fight against the big boys, semi industrial + real industrial machines.

>> No.1374318

>>1374298
don't forget the marketing.

>> No.1374332

>>1374278
>They're seriously trying to push an FDM machine for $6k??
High end industrial FDM can cost 400k$. Ultimaker makes decent machines even though they are a bit overpriced.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KlDDKb3_DOg

>> No.1374337

>>1374332
Heh kinda funny that you linked the video for the Fortus 900, seeing as they are showing off new ones at TCT this week.

>> No.1374454

>>1372325
You could check out the Moai, It's about half the price of a Form 2 with similar quality. If you can skimp a little bit more on quality look for DLP SLA printers. I've been seriously considering one of these for a pocket change endeavor, cause the printers start at around $500 with comparable quality to that of a true SLA printer. DLP printers cure layers using a screen that emits UV light rather than a highly accurate pointed laser, so you sacrifice a bit of quality (because of a screens resolution) for a whole lot saved in base costs. Personally, I'm looking at the Anycubic Photon. heres a vid of a guy showing off his prints with it https://youtu.be/5YrUQOYLoK0

>> No.1374481
File: 178 KB, 1080x839, 4366367f60f5e8c7d0c1243a5c56da66.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1374481

>>1374454
>DLP printers cure layers using a screen that emits UV light rather than a highly accurate pointed laser

DLP printers use a DLP projector

>>1374332
>Ultimaker makes decent machines even though they are a bit overpriced.
Even though they're technically hobbyst hardware, many big companies actually use them because they're precise and reliable. I know of one big toilet making company that purchased a few one to prototype fittings and the like

>> No.1374498

>>1374481
Projected... onto a screen, yes?

>> No.1374554
File: 41 KB, 500x500, 4-500x500.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1374554

Is it ok if the belts rub against the idlers a little? The idlers I made have exactly 9mm of space for the belt and with a 6mm belt there's too much room for it to wiggle up and down and with a 9mm belt it rubs against the bearing flanges. Do I add another 1mm washer to in between the flanged bearings or just leave it the way it is now? If I remove the washer I think the bearings will bind, but then there will be 8mm which is closer to 6mm

>> No.1374559

>>1374498
Projected onto a layer of resin, which makes me wonder what happen to the resin that is sitting above the layer that is currently being projected

>> No.1374565
File: 87 KB, 767x1024, F54P2PPIAZZFZB2.LARGE.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1374565

>>1374498