/3dpg/ - 3D Printing General

[Anonymous No.1321687]

Old thread >>1304229

Still new pasta, feel free to contribute

>general info
https://www.3dhubs.com/what-is-3d-printing
https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base
Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker

>open source community
http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Machines
http://forums.reprap.org/
#RepRap @freenode

>buyfag buyers guide
https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide
Any cheap chinkshit kit

>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki (lots of useful stuff)
http://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/index

>why do my prints look like shit, visual troubleshooting
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

>how to calibrate
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints
https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer
http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide
http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/
youtu.be/w_Wb0i0-Qvo

>where do I get files to print?
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://www.youmagine.com/
http://www.thingiverse.com/
https://www.myminifactory.com/

>what programs do you make your own files with
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing
http://www.freecadweb.org/
https://www.blender.org/
http://www.openscad.org/
https://www.onshape.com/
http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview

>what kind of filament do I want
Begin with a roll of known brand PLA before moving to more demanding materials.
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/28-material-guide
http://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare

>Hotends
e3d and its clones

>SLA&DLP
http://www.buildyourownsla.com/
http://www.nanodlp.com/

>SLS
http://sintratec.com/ SLS kit.

Need help with prints? Post:
>filament type, bed & extruder temp, print & fan speed, etc

[Anonymous No.1321820]

Anyone have some good resources for learning Maya? I torrented a copy of it and thought I'd ask before diving into youtube.

[Anonymous No.1321878]

Using Slic3r on 0.10mm layer height, what's with this weird thinner extrusion preview I'm seeing? I don't know what the setting for it would be or what causes it since I've never seen it before.

[Anonymous No.1321912]

Are there any obvious problems with the craftbot plus? I'm about to recomend it to a friend

>>1321878
Might be your bridging settings. I'm not sure though.

[Anonymous No.1321918]

>>1321820
> you can get a free trial forever...

[Anonymous No.1321926]

>>1321912
Doesn't look like it's bridging, that's the top layer of a non-hollow object.

[Anonymous No.1321932]

>>1321926
post .stl

[Anonymous No.1321997]

>>1321878
Got a hunch; your model isn't sitting perfectly parallel to slic3r's build plate, so it's trying to interpret the high spots. Try turning supports on, see if it tries to add anything on the bottom.

[Anonymous No.1321998]

>>1321687
>E3d v6 clone vs volcano clone
Which one is the superior and why? They look almost the same to me

[Anonymous No.1322002]

>>1321912
>craftbot plus
>direct drive
>reliable cartesian motion

That machine is pretty much perfect

>>1321998
Volcano is a bit larger heatblock that uses nozzles with longer threads. It supposedly helps printing with both thin nozzles at a reasonable speed and with wide nozzles at very high speeds. You can take a volcano block and install it in an E3D V6 clone with no problem at all. I have a few, haven't tried them yet because I need a different x carriage that will let me move my inductive probe further down.

[Anonymous No.1322029]

I set like 6mm retraction on a bowden extruder but i still get massive seams, no stringing tho. Wat do?

[Anonymous No.1322032]

>>1322029
>I set like 6mm retraction on a bowden extruder but i still get massive seams, no stringing tho. Wat do?

Enable coasting

[Anonymous No.1322038]

>>1322032
Thanks

Wipe while retract in slic3r is the closest i found. Ill try that out. Pressure advance didnt do shit for me before.

[Anonymous No.1322062]

>>1322038
>>1322032
Wipe while retract sort of helped, before i had 0.75mm blobs, now its only 0.3mm.

[Anonymous No.1322083]

>>1321687
Can I drill a 1mm hole in my nozzle and print at 0.8mm?

[Anonymous No.1322093]

>>1322083
if your heater is up to the task jea.
Also might wanna ream that hole

[Anonymous No.1322125]

>>1322093
It's a 40w heating block.
Good enough?
Should I print at a higher temperature to compensate for the thickness?

[Anonymous No.1322173]

What's a good low-friction filament? I got an idea that requires two printed parts to slide along each other (not a bearing, but an actual sliding motion). Not concerned with longevity but the actual smoothness of the sliding itself.

[Anonymous No.1322232]

>>1322173
pla with grease works

[Anonymous No.1322244]

>>1322173
We have this stuff in germany
https://www.igus.eu/3d-print-material/3d-print-filament
never tried it though

[Anonymous No.1322269]

>>1322244
I have gotten around 10meters of sample off of them, 2 types, never used them.
The filament surface is super bumpy, precise prints are probably impossible with these. Its filled with magic sauce, i bet they like to clog the nozzle often.

[Anonymous No.1322274]

>>1321932
>>1321997
Looks like I figured it out, there were some non-flat faces that were interpreting weirdly and were hard to find; fixed those and it printed fine.

[Anonymous No.1322275]

>>1322173
Any hard plastic type material will give a good smooth slide as long as the contact faces are smooth. and if all else fails, you could just spray the fuck out of it with teflon or something

[Anonymous No.1322280]

hey guys, i'm thinking of using my 3d printer to print ribs for my rc aircraft wings and i'm wondering how exactly could i make these pictures/vector drawings/whatever into 3d files, anyone happen to know? Here's the website i've been getting the airfoil designs from and the particular airfoil i'm interested in. http://airfoiltools.com/plotter/index?airfoil=hq3015-il

[Anonymous No.1322296]

>>1322280
Google 3D printed airfoil, there is some decent stuff out there

Also look at https://3dlabprint.com/ just look at the pictures to get an idea of what to do

Far as getting it into CAD use fusion 360/ onshape / torrent solidworks or inventor and do your best to give dimensions to all your sketches so it makes it easier to alter when something fails or not getting the results you want.

[Anonymous No.1322303]

>>1322280
here is a possible solution, though, no matter what, you're probably going to have to learn some CAD software.

http://airfoiltools.com/airfoil/details?airfoil=hq3015-il

https://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/Common_Airfoil_Data_Import

[Anonymous No.1322322]

>>1322280
>i'm wondering how exactly could i make these pictures/vector drawings/whatever into 3d files

Draw the profile and then extrude

If the section varies along the length of the wing, draw them and use a loft command

[Anonymous No.1322430]

>>1322280
Making 3D files from 2D drawings is fairly easy and straight forward if you know how to 3D design. Sounds like you need to step back and learn how to use some modeling software first. I recommend Fusion 360 or Blender. You can import images into both, but I think Fusion 360 is better for dimensionally accurate parts.

[Anonymous No.1322576]

I made a horrible mistake.
Decided to save 3 dollars on my purchase and bought generic pla instead of my usual brand, it turned out so bad.
Mine is usually 1kg 340m, but this was 1kg 400m.

It can print at almost the same quality as my usual pla but only when I increase temperature to 205°c and increase extrusion by 15%.

Will that affect my printer in any way? The temperature is fine as I can do ABS as well, I'm concerned about increasing the output of the place through the nozzle.

[Anonymous No.1322592]

>>1322576
I find that with different filaments different temperatures are needed - even if they are the same plastic.
For example I have cheap PETG and expensive PETG, I have to print the cheaper one at 195c and the branded one at 225c

[Anonymous No.1322639]

>>1322083
Just buy a new nozzle for that size??? Jeez

[Anonymous No.1322734]

>>1322592
PETG requires more fine tuning than PLA, I've never had to print place at over 190°c or increase the extrusion before.

[Anonymous No.1322783]

I might have an issue with my Prusa i3, but I'm not sure. I've had it for a couple of years by now, and the nozzle has slowly over time rotated. Last night the prints stopped adhering to the bed despite having the proper clearance and bed having an adhesive mixture. What do I do with/about this? I'm hesitant to just twist it (cold or hot) since I don't know exactly how it looks inside and I don't want to strip threads/etc.

Yes, I am aware the extruder head is filthy, the nozzle is clean, though. AFAIK there's no leakage of plastic like in >>1321195 .

[Anonymous No.1322798]

>>1322783
is filament even coming out of the nozzle when its heated out and you push it out? if not you should completely disassemble/clean it. Else you should ensure that the clearance is fine using the paper test and that the gears on the extruder are catching the filament.

[Anonymous No.1322829]

>>1322798
Yes, filament's coming out of the nozzle - specifically the problem I'm having is that prints will not adhere to the printbed suddenly; it worked fine that morning but then they started curling at the edges/detaching. I'm not sure if the two issues are at all related, but I'm absolutely sure that the print surface is not at fault here. The nozzle distance to printbed should be fine, but I was considering maybe during extrusion it... lifts off, somehow, and increases the distance? I don't know if that's something that's mechanically likely/possible.

[Anonymous No.1322892]

Turns out the reason the aluminum block is rotating is because the wires are pulling on it. I don't think there's a way to fix this apart from solidly attaching the wires to the Y carriage, which might be problematic. I also forgot that brass is a soft metal and took of a sliver of my nozzle while cleaning it with a razor blade, whoops.

[Anonymous No.1322969]

>>1322430
>>1322322
>>1322303
>>1322296
Forgive me brothers for i have sinned, i found out that i can just import an svg file into tinkercad so rather than learn to use a proper CAD software i used the child's toy, please do not judge me too harshly.

[Anonymous No.1322982]

Rate my printing setup.

[Anonymous No.1323008]

>>1322982
Neat / 10. Is the brains of your printer behind that screen or is that something else? I also still don't really get why Europeans/etc. have such deep electrical sockets, it makes the plug about 1.5-2x thicker than it otherwise would be.

[Anonymous No.1323012]

>>1322969
Honestly man I do not blame you. Airfoils are a bitch to model and you're better off doing it this way.

You gonna shove a square dowel in that hole and have a different profile at the wingtip? And use monocoat or something? That's what it looks like

[Anonymous No.1323014]

>>1323008
Sorry for doubleposting but it's a safety thing mostly. If the plug has to go into the socket to reach the contacts, there's a lower possibility of touching the contacts (or the plug when it's touching the contacts) when plugging or unplugging, unlike US plugs.

[Anonymous No.1323016]

My prints are generally of small size (<2" / 5cm) so I don't go through a lot of plastic. I use up about one spool per year, and it's looking to be about that time again. Every time I look for filament, it seems that the manufacturer I used the previous year doesn't have what I need in stock, doesn't exist, or has jacked up their prices. I think my progression was Hatchbox -> eSun -> meltINK3D or something similar; what's on the market these days? I don't need any flashy filaments (i.e. woodfill, carbon, glittery, the ones that smell good when you print, etc.), just a plain old 1.75mm PLA filament. It'd be nice if there was some colour variety, but I'd be fine with just black and white. I'm used to paying ~$20/kg but it seems the new "regular" price is $30/kg or so.

Any suggestions/recommendations/things to look out for?

[Anonymous No.1323023]

>>1323016
If you want a little bit of variety, push-plastic has 5x200g filament rolls for the going rate of PLA. You can pick the colors, or for a little less, you can get 5 randoms.

[Anonymous No.1323053]

>>1323016
Where are you from, there are often good local firms, but they dont always send their stuff worldwide, so a lot of suggestions can be moot.

[Anonymous No.1323072]

>>1323016
>>1323023
I second push plastic. I've been buying plastic from them for a few years now and never had any problems. Good prices and they have sales every few months too (have to be on their mailing list to find out about them). Just make sure you order $50+ to get free shipping.

Curious what do you normally print so small?

[Anonymous No.1323080]

>>1323053
Southwest US.

>>1323072
Pic related is usually the upper limit of what I print, and it's about egg-sized. I don't have a real use for large novelty objects (i.e. game weapons, objects from games, various printed vases... You know, the stuff you see on Thingiverse) so most of my prints are either stuff I've designed myself or small gifts for friends.

[Anonymous No.1323087]

>>1323080
Here's a selection of some of the things I've printed recently. The Behelit is still roughly egg-sized and I think everything's to scale based on that - I can say for sure that the crates on the right have a 2x2cm base.

[Anonymous No.1323208]

Some crazy guy combined the disadvantages of a delta and a i3.

[Anonymous No.1323221]

>>1323012
Yea man, a square piece of carbon fiber and then some thin rod for that front notch, i'm thinking i might need to add a little notch to the back as well but i'm not quite sure yet.

[Anonymous No.1323222]

>>1323221
Here's an earlier wing i made out of balsa.

[Anonymous No.1323257]

>>1323016
>>1323023
>>1323072
Can PLA really be worth $30/kg? I've been paying $15/kg off Amazon for Inland and haven't had any reason to complain. There more on the Push rolls or something?

[Anonymous No.1323473]

>>1323221
Looking good so far! Keep it up. Hopefully you find something interesting to do with the printed aspect of it. It mostly seems like extra weight without much advantage, unless you do some funky airfoil shape.

>>1323257
No. It's still priced per the kilogram. I only suggested push if you wanted a little bit of a bunch of different colors. If you don't have a need for a veritable rainbow of plastics, then by all means save your money.

[Anonymous No.1323490]

>>1323257
The rolls they sell are pretty high quality. I have no problem paying $30 for a roll I know will work without problems.

[Anonymous No.1323583]

>>1323208
>pen

[Anonymous No.1323632]

>>1323208
I talk frequently to creator of that abomination on discord server. Once he went apeshit when pointed out, that single linear rail gives too much play with 300x300 bed. Can't take any constructive critique.

[Anonymous No.1323672]

>>1323632
Jesus, if your print's center of gravity wasn't balanced on the rail it would just wobble and fuck up just from the imbalance.

[Anonymous No.1323800]

Question about printer vibrations.

In regards to printer health (i.e. printer shaking it nuts/bolts loose) and print accuracy, is it better to lock your printer down in place so it can't move at all, or is it better to allow the printer allow your printer to move when it vibrates? Either moving freely as it vibrates with some sort of caster wheels, or dampening the movements with rubber or spring cushions?

What's the best vibration solution?

[Anonymous No.1323818]

>>1323800
I remember Thomas Sanlander testing dampers and proving they lead to sympathetic resonance. I would lock it down if you have the option; I don't know if it helps or harms, but when I built my machine I used loctite on the frame nuts and haven't seen any problems with things loosening up.

[Anonymous No.1323824]

>>1323800
I've got no evidence backing this up but i think the print quality would be best if you bolted your printer to a really heavy object.

[Anonymous No.1323826]

>>1323818
I wonder what would happen if you added hydralic shocks to eliminate the resonance.

[Anonymous No.1323828]

>>1323800
>>1323824
I agree with this but haven't tried it. What I did do is I took those half-inch-thick jigsaw foam mats (people use them for garages, kids' play areas, etc.) and built a box out of them, one panel for each side. Not only does it dampen vibration, it absorbs sound AND insulates heat.

[Anonymous No.1324089]

I just can't figure it out, what could be causing this?
It was printing perfectly yesterday. I can't diagnose why this is happening, I've already checked some articles.

[Anonymous No.1324098]

Is there a printer that can do 50-micron layers for under $400?

[Anonymous No.1324099]

>>1323632
what a cuck lol

[Anonymous No.1324100]

>>1324089
Too low nozzle height? Deformed printbed? Underextrusion?

[Anonymous No.1324102]

>>1324089
Check your extruder gear? I've had some issues with it getting loose and that fucks with it.

[Anonymous No.1324131]

>>1324100
>>1324102

It's underextruding as far as I can tell. I tried printing with a +1cm on z axis and the PLA was coming out too slowly.

[Anonymous No.1324176]

>>1324131
Maybe the motor feeding your filament broke?

[Anonymous No.1324196]

>>1324176
Nah it's just Marlin fucking me up.

Any alternatives with AL function?

[Anonymous No.1324226]

>>1324196
Anet A8 btw

[Anonymous No.1324248]

>>1323672
Yep, he even considered a 0.5 inch (sic!) tolerances are acceptable. Here is link to his blog with recent pics.

https://bornity.com/deltesian

[Anonymous No.1324251]

>>1324196
Reflash firmware, upgrade to RAMPS. Or cannibalize A8 and build new printer from scratch

[Anonymous No.1324263]

This may be a stupid question but when setting up ramps for 1/32 microstepping with DRV8825 drivers, am I supposed to put jumpers and enable microstepping for the extruder motor?

[Anonymous No.1324283]

I decided to print a parts cooling fan for my Tronxy X1 i've got no 40mm fans so i decided to use a 80mm fan, is it ok to just plug the thing into the board? Can it handle it?

[Anonymous No.1324286]

>>1324283
*decided to print a parts cooling fan funnel or whatever

[Anonymous No.1324289]

>>1324263
Apparently I need to put the extruder in to microstepping as well.

[Anonymous No.1324327]

>>1323632
>that single linear rail gives too much play with 300x300 bed

If it's a brand name linear rail it will give no play at all, but the bed may flex

[Anonymous No.1324336]

>virgin 40x40mm parts cooling fan chad 80x80mm parts cooling fan

[Anonymous No.1324339]

>>1324283
Just look at the amp draw of the fan and look up the specs of the controller board

[Anonymous No.1324368]

>>1324336
Fanlet detected

[Anonymous No.1324631]

>

[Anonymous No.1324663]

>>1324631
the print head is supposed to move up buddy

[Anonymous No.1324777]

>>1324631
How did you print that with no support

[Anonymous No.1324785]

>printing second order ever
>start the print at 18:00
>until 23:00 everything is going OK
>go to bed
>wake up at 3:00 in the morning
>go look at print, it is still going mostly ok
>suddenly I hear a loud noise
>a part of the print broke off, printer misses a few steps during the collision
>pause print imediately
>home x, home y
>open printing chamber
>try to glue the part back into place with CA glue
>attempt to continue the print, to no avail
>stop print, remove print from chamber
>fuck, I need to send this in the mail today
>note down the Z position
>open the part in Cura
>move it 111 mm down
>slice it
>start printing the new top part
>finish it in 3 hours or so
>roughly matches the bottom part
>get rotary tool
>friction weld the two parts and grind the joints until they're barely visible
>tell what happened to customer, show pictures, he likes the end result

Man, fuck this. Do I need to pad the interior of the printer with rock wool or something to make it even warmer to further improve layer adhesion?

[Anonymous No.1324788]

>>1324785
Like, can't you just add supports or something.

[Anonymous No.1324791]

I'm all around quite happy with my current print quality but what could i do to improve it?

[Anonymous No.1324795]

>>1324788
The model is supposed to be printed without supports, also supports would use more plastic than I had at the moment. Should have bought a roll of PLA when I had the chance.

[Anonymous No.1324832]

Can you smooth pla with a hot air gun?

I just tried and it im wondering if im doing it wrong or is it not a thing at all.

[Anonymous No.1324884]

>>1324832
It doesn't smooth, but a heat gun is a good way to burn off any spiderwebs.

[Anonymous No.1324886]

>>1324884
It gets smooth, but it also gets warped and bubbly.

spiders > flying insects

[Anonymous No.1324910]

>>1324795
>pla
>needs layer adhesion

its the printer bud, this winter it got so cold my power supply blew out and I have been using a atx with only the nozzle and no chamber.

other than needing a sock from the cold I can still print fine if I replace my painter's tape a bit more frequently.

[Anonymous No.1324930]

>>1324832

With varying success, yes. But it's very easy to fuck up - hold for too long and it bubbles, hold it over a thin wall and it warps... I normally sand the part first and then go over it with the heatgun just enough for the surface to turn from matte to glossy.

[Anonymous No.1324943]

>>1321687
Have a more recent one. The ones in the OP are from months ago.

The updated grip is a single print, which significantly reduces assembly time and shaves down print time a bit. Or at the very least allows me to print in 4 hours in a single print which used to take 5 hours across 3 prints.

I also added a segmented optional front part set that triples the available picatinny rail space.

[Anonymous No.1324947]

>>1324943
And I combined these two pieces into a single print with a hex feature on the inside to allow the coupling nut to nest inside of it.

I will be printing my 300th one of these later this month.

[Anonymous No.1324951]

>>1324785
Your chamber should be insulated anyway just for efficiency, if you don't mind actively heating the chamber, a reptile heat mat with a thermostat is also a good idea.

[Anonymous No.1325042]

>>1324951
>a reptile heat mat with a thermostat is also a good idea.

How about a second heating bed in the bottom? Also aluminized foam boards on 4 walls and a double panel in the front.

[Anonymous No.1325193]

Man why the hell did my extrudet have to come pre-assembled in my kit when those damn chinks can't even properly put on the nozzle leaving me with extruder motor skip the cause of which ive been hunting for days.

[Anonymous No.1325223]

>>1325193
Nvm i guess my nozzle realli is just clogged or something.

[Anonymous No.1325228]

>>1325223

[Anonymous No.1325244]

>>1324777
The only thing I can think of is the right portion was too loosely attached to the bed, stuck to the print head, and welded onto the cylinder.

[Anonymous No.1325253]

>>1325244
I didn't notice it until you pointed that out. I didn't realize it was supposed to be a vertical pipe-thing.

Also, does anyone use 1/8 or 1/4 steps rather than 1/6 or more? 20 steps per mm should be plenty and 1/16 generates a shitload of noise

[Anonymous No.1325352]

>>1325253
>not using a 32bit board in 2018

[Anonymous No.1325379]

>>1325352
I will get one eventually...

[Anonymous No.1325395]

>>1325228
nozzle too close to bed

[Anonymous No.1325574]

>>1325352

Seems to me like 32bit boards only use their extra processing power on features like web interfaces and wifi... I would like to get a Duet Wifi eventually for a dual x-carriage setup with quieter drivers but other than that it's not *that* much of an upgrade.

[Anonymous No.1325790]

>>1323828

I have one of those foam mats under my printer, does wonders for the noise of the thing

[Anonymous No.1325796]

>>1324947

Are you making a living off these yet?

[Anonymous No.1325804]

My Prusa i3 clone has developed an issue, where PLA seems to ooze through the threading of my hotend, with plastic oozing down the outside of the nozzle.

I took my hotend apart, cleaned it as much as I could, then reassembled. THE OOZE PERSISTS.

Any suggestions on how to stop this happening? Or is it time to replace my heating block?

Kind of ruins prints when a pea-sized glob of plastic falls onto it every now and then

[Anonymous No.1325806]

>>1325804
derped the picture attachment

[Anonymous No.1325818]

>>1325804
>>1325806
I think your threads may be (somehow) worn or ill-fitting. I assume you've screwed in the nozzle as far as it will go? I don't know if it's a good idea/possible, but maybe you could wrap the nozzle threads in a couple of layers of teflon tape for extra thickness/sealing. Last (and dumbest, but still possibly working) solution I can think of is leave the extruder on higher than you would print with, cooking/carmelizing the plastic caught in the threads and solidifying it.

[Anonymous No.1325823]

>>1325818
>cooking/carmelizing
Would that even stay solid if I kept printing?

Nozzle and throat both in as tight as I could get them. Block is quite old, I've used it for 2 years and changed nozzles quite frequently - chinkshit metal must have sheared as i've adjusted it over time.

Time to order a new heater block then!

[Anonymous No.1325938]

>>1325804
>remove nozzle, ptfe tube and any filament
>clean nozzle thread and upper surface
>heat to 100 and remove any plastic left in thread and block
>heat to 200 and screw in nozzle firmly
>make sure ptfe tube is cut squarely and then reinsert as far as it will physically go
>feed filament back in a commence test print

[Anonymous No.1325961]

>>1325804
You need to make sure that your nozzle is engaging not on the heating block but the other thingy that screws into the heating block as well as the nozzle (when tight there should be a small gap between the nozzle shoulder and the heating block), also, tighten it all down in temperatures that are atleast 20 degrees hotter than your ordinary printing temperature.

Any suggestions on ways i could improve my print quality btw?

[Anonymous No.1325970]

>>1325796
>Are you making a living off these yet?
It's very nice supplemental income ($16 an hour after expenses) that I'm earning entirely from home, but it's not going to allow me to quit my day job.

[Anonymous No.1325976]

>>1322576
Did you measure the diameter of the filament? It might be 1.67 mm instead of 1.75 mm likes it's supposed to be, so that's why you're having to turn up the extrusion rate. Temperature might be able to to down as well, but understand that different materials require different temps. That's why the band for printing temp is 190-220. Use whatever works for you.

[Anonymous No.1326094]

>>1322576
>>1322592
It happened to me that for the same plastic and same brand, but different colour, I had to use different heat settings.

[Anonymous No.1326101]

PCB removable bed?

would copper sheet be good enough for sensor? would require clamps so IDK if this would be good

[Anonymous No.1326467]

Is there any hope to get any more out of this 140e printer (Tronxy X1)? I mean it's not bad or anything but still, maybe a 0.3mm nozzle and a smaller layer height will help?

[Anonymous No.1326476]

Where do you guys find metric cap screws? I've found so many models online that call for metric cap screws yet none of my local hardware stores sell anything smaller than m5.

[Anonymous No.1326477]

>>1326476
I buy them from eBay or Alibaba straight from China. If you need them sooner, maybe if you're lucky, a local fasteners store should have a bunch but expect higher prices.

[Anonymous No.1326480]

>>1326467
Better stepper drivers with more microstepping and filament with a more consistent diameter.

[Anonymous No.1326493]

>>1326480
Should i look into replacing the whole board or just the drivers?

[Anonymous No.1326494]

>>1326493
get a duet

[Anonymous No.1326503]

>>1326494
This thing costs as much as my whole printer did, happen to have any china clone board etc. suggestions?

[Anonymous No.1326525]

>>1326494
So how about them soldered drivers? Wat do when one fails?

[Anonymous No.1326532]

>>1326525
you get a year warranty, also are tmc2660, I would be amazed if you could kill them.
there is also solder pads to add your own if you want.
https://duet3d.com/wiki/How_to_destroy_your_Duet_WiFi_or_Duet_Ethernet

>>1326503
I got mine on sale from filastrooder, not that expensive, costs less than a genuine rambo

if you dont want a good printer board then get a crappy smoothieboard clone, replicape if you want to spend even more, or one of the new M7 boards that are coming out.

getting just the trinamic drivers will keep your speeds slow and low microstepping(with interpolation though).
just spend 50 bucks more and get a faster 32 bit printer AND the high accuracy trinamic drivers.

I'm not a shill, just saying that it is a fast, cheap(ish) way to get modern hardware.
If you want to go step by step, get the trinamic drivers for x/y axis, then get a duet with ramps, then get trinamic for the other 2-3 steppers.

[Anonymous No.1326534]

>>1326532
sorry, due not duet for the last one

[Anonymous No.1326607]

Anyone heard of pic related, the "Peopoly Moai"? $1250 SLA printer, quality of prints looks decent, considering getting one.

[Anonymous No.1326614]

How the fuck do you guys keep your filament dry? My ABS sucks up more water than a jewish man drinking pop from a soda fountain. I have a cheap plastic tote with a foam seal around the lip with a reusable desiccant inside, and after using the filament I place it in a food dehydrator for a few hours. My white ABS is so full of moisture that even after leaving it in the food dehydrator over night, it still crackles and pops when I print. Driving me insane. If I had the money I'd buy a vacuum dehydrator.

[Anonymous No.1326615]

>>1326467
That looks pretty awesome for an FDM printer, I don't know what you're expecting. Honestly you'll end up pulling your hair out if you're trying to match SLA printers.

[Anonymous No.1326621]

>>1326476
You have a Lowes? Maybe it's just mine, but I can find the most common stuff down to M3.

[Anonymous No.1326642]

>>1326615
could be better tho...

[Anonymous No.1326660]

>>1326614
I've seen one solution being keeping your filaments inside a sealed plastic box, with dry air obviously, and feeding out a strand from a small filament sized hole with maybe a rubber seal.

[Anonymous No.1326665]

What frame design provides best print quality? I'm guessing some kind of box shape, right? Must be hella rigid.

[Anonymous No.1326671]

>>1326642
That had to be like a 100h print with a .1mm nozzle or something insane.

[Anonymous No.1326672]

>>1326665
>What frame design provides best print quality?
>I'm guessing some kind of box shape, right?
Yes.

[Anonymous No.1326673]

>>1326671
Looks pretty big, I don't think that the nozzle size is super important at that scale/level of detail. Does look pretty nice, though

[Anonymous No.1326693]

>>1326671
60h on a .4
mostly due to 0.06mm layer heights

[Anonymous No.1326910]

>>1326607
I want to get one of these to print miniatures for DnD. Does anyone know if it is worth the price difference from a D7?

[Anonymous No.1327009]

>>1326642
His choice of filament didn't help much. I have black filament because you can't make out any detail. I believe his would look a lot better with a white or light grey primer, or if it was printed in a matte filament.

>>1326910
D7 has spares for pretty much every part, if you can find spares for the Moai..

[Anonymous No.1327016]

Is PETG pretty much the ultimate filament for printing vases and not much else?

[Anonymous No.1327018]

>>1327016
No, you are just retarded.

[Anonymous No.1327021]

>>1327018
t. PETG fanboy

[Anonymous No.1327064]

>>1327018
>>1327021
You're both retarded. First guy: why do you think PETG is only for printing vases? Second guy. what are your counterpoints?

[Anonymous No.1327123]

>>1327064
fucking solid. i love you anon.

[Anonymous No.1327129]

>>1321820
normally i wouldn't recommend a class, but Maya is one of those cases where its just genuinely better to learn from someone who knows what theyre doing cause they can teach you the shortcuts and why each thing matters.

[Anonymous No.1327130]

I haven't had a chance to read the links at the top yet, I'm on mobile, I'm in the market for Filaments for Tabletop miniatures, quality really doesnt matter as long as it isn't brittle and snaps .

[Anonymous No.1327330]

>>1327064
Why should i make an effort to make a decent post in reply to a shitpost in the fist place? He didnt add anything to the thread, yeah i made the mistake in replying to him, i should just left the troll alone with his /g/ level quality mindset.

>counterpoints
Almost as easy to print as PLA, very sticky, good adhesion, temps are not too high. Compressive strength and hardness is better than PLA, after heat treatment its super strong, we used it in sheet metal forming tooling.
>counter counterpoints
Brittle, stickiness can cause print problems, warps, shrinks after heat treatment like any other material.

[Anonymous No.1327399]

>>1327064
Because anything I print with infill or any amount of detail that requires retraction moves ends up like garbage. PETG sticks to the nozzle and then that stuck blob rips out the infill lines. I can't get good and clean prints the way I can with ABS. In vase mode it just works, and the result is flexible enough to not break during regular handling.

[Anonymous No.1327401]

>>1327330
>Brittle, warps

Quite the opposite. It doesn't warp at all and is very flexible.

[Anonymous No.1327437]

>>1327399
just polish the nozzle

>>1327330
>>1327401
petg is soft and flexible but impact resistance is much worse than pla

[Anonymous No.1327549]

>>1327437
>just polish the nozzle

Polish it? How so?

Also, post your G29 ITT

http://www.maui-3d.com/cgi-bin/plotG29

[Anonymous No.1327592]

>>1327437
>>1327549
>polish
I think you mean "replace". Unless you need hardened steel for a specific application, your nozzle is a disposable. If it hivrs you trouble, throw it away.

[Anonymous No.1327620]

Which slicer are you using and why?

I tested Simplify 3d, Cura and at the moment Slic3r.

S3d is nice, but often slices bullshit and prints slow.

Cura slices nice, and the prints fast and accurate. But the user interface is banana.

At the Moment I'm doing my first print with slic3r. Pic related.

[Anonymous No.1327624]

>>1327620

I've only used slic3r, because free as in freedom. I like it, but don't know any different

[Anonymous No.1327629]

>>1327620
I use Slic3r because it's the software that came with my first printer like 5 years ago and it's worked well enough so far. I haven't had any issues with it.

[Anonymous No.1327657]

>>1327592
It doesn't give me trouble with ABS. Only PETG is a bit of a pain in the ass.

[Slic0r No.1327664]

>>1327624
>>1327629

First impression on slic3r:
I like the userinterface, prints seem to be good, has a octoprint plugin BUT with no https support and you cant change the port...

[Anonymous No.1327673]

>>1327664
>no HTTPS support and you can't change the port
My printer is standalone, I just toss the gcode onto an SD, slot it in, and print. I don't use either of those features so I didn't know they didn't exist.

[Anonymous No.1327792]

>>1327664
desu, i'm not sure it really needs those things.
Its a slicer, not a printer manager. you're more than capable of moving the gcode elsewhere, with a method you see fit.

i would prefer they continue to improve its slicing ability, than develop features that are non-essential. Also, the non-prusa slic3r development has essentially ceased.

consider using the slic3r prusa edition, if you were not.

[Anonymous No.1327822]

>>1327130
quality brand PLA should suffice
dry it out yourself before use and try oiling your nozzle with veg oil

[Anonymous No.1327826]

>>1327629
Yeah I use sli3r.
Tried s3d, didn't work and wouldn't heat when it was put on the printer. Plus it's the favorite of the smiling youtube cunts so my gut tells me to be contrarian.

[Anonymous No.1327873]

>>1326614

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=silica+desiccant&_sop=12

Still keep it sealed as best you can, of course.

[Anonymous No.1327924]

This Garchomp was mostly meant to be a reason to learn silicone mold and resin casting along with multi-part printing and eventually airbrush shading but god dang is it going to be huge.

The printed parts are hollow and light, who knows how heavy a fully assembled resin casting is going to be.

apologies for shit-ass picture quality

[Anonymous No.1327935]

>>1327924
>silidon mold and resin casting
>airbrish shading
Oh boy, you're in for a ride. I lurk here a lot and can answer questions when they come up if you need

Also, be prepared for a lot of sanding and spray-urethaning - EVERY defect that you leave there will show up in the mold. Also, for something of that size, I might recommend slush/roto-casting, otherwise it'll get expensive fast

[Anonymous No.1327938]

>>1327549
I used a dremel with a buffing wheel and some buffing compound

[Anonymous No.1327973]

>>1327924
Ayy, that's a nice as fuck print. Perfect layers and an excellent finish. Are you at .1 on the layer height?

Also, thinking of decommissioning my kossel and turning it into an CNC router. Spent a week fixing and replacing parts on someone else's machine, and I really like how fast it is. Conversely, I could make it into an sla printer instead. Pic related is the first successful cut I got on the machine.

[Slic0r No.1327999]

>>1327792
I use the prusa slic3r edition.

I still have to configure it but its nice since now.
Does someone have a good CR-10(s) profile? Or a link to one?


>>1327673
My printer is in the basement, so a print-server is necessary. To check every then and now, it the print is still ok.

[Anonymous No.1328028]

>>1327924
>The printed parts are hollow and light, who knows how heavy a fully assembled resin casting is going to be.
Look into slush casting.

[Anonymous No.1328038]

>>1323826
attach the hydraulic shocks directly to the motors/actuators causing said vibrations, attaching them to the base of the unit wouldn't really help, only if the plateform that the printer actually deposits the filament on can be kept isolated from the printer with it autoadjusting the print head in real-time would do anything.

Think those EXTREMELY EXPENSIVE CRUISE SHIP POOL TABLES, sea sickness curing beds for the felt table destroyers/lovers.

[Anonymous No.1328099]

>>1327973
The image compression hides the layer lines but overall it's pretty nice. It is .1mm, the head, the tail, and the [tail end and two feet] took around 10 hrs to print. The head is fucked so I'll have to reprint that but starting a print at night, taking it out in the morning, and starting another print before work, it's moving at a good pace.

Can I rig my airbrush compressor and some valves with a pot to degas resin and silicone?

[Anonymous No.1328142]

>>1328099
Yeah. Make something like this with an inlet(air supply), outlet (discharge), and a suction (resin cup). Open the discharge first, then the supply the air, then open the suction. Assuming you made it correctly, the air should get sucked out of the resin via a vacuum. Look up how to make a "venturri air ejector" for more details.

As an FYI, you can also use a similar design to make a naturally aspirated propane jet burner.

[Anonymous No.1328143]

>>1328142
Forgot the picture.

[Anonymous No.1328150]

>>1328099
Pressure casting/molding might be less of a hassle. It's easier to tell where the leaks are, equipment is cheaper, and you can get away with ~10/15 PSI or so.

[Anonymous No.1328238]

Is there any easy way to join different colors of PLA together for funky multi color prints?

[Anonymous No.1328297]

>>1328238
Yeah, as long as they all work on the same settings you just need to pause your print every few layers and load a new color.

[Anonymous No.1328310]

>>1328238
I recall seeing a filament splicing system a couple of years ago which would splicing different lengths of colors together based on which layers you selected.

[Anonymous No.1328316]

>>1328238
use Dye on the roll

[Anonymous No.1328324]

>>1328297
Wouldn't the heated nozzle cause deformities during pauses?

>>1328310
My printer can only do one at a time. Anet A8.

>>1328316
The point is for the colors to come from the PLA.


I was hoping to be able to join them in 1m lengths of like 6 or 7 different colors for a print.

[Anonymous No.1328343]

>>1322982
pretty cool except for the dumb euro-sockets and suspicious amounts of moisturizer/lotions and soda bottles

[Anonymous No.1328347]

>>1324248
>https://bornity.com/deltesian
Wow, that's a fucking abomination!

[Anonymous No.1328350]

>>1324785
wait... you make money off of 3d printing?

[Anonymous No.1328363]

printed vertically, Wanhao i3v2, 0.06 layers at 25mm/s and 22.5% infill,no retraction.

i'm fairly happy how this printed but would like to see far less banding, all belts are tight, no mods on printer yet.....

any constructive criticism/advice?
what would you change?

[Anonymous No.1328368]

>>1328350
Marlin lets you insert a filament change command into your gcode that homes the head.
http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M600.html

[Anonymous No.1328370]

>>1328368
Meant for >>1328324

[Anonymous No.1328372]

>>1328350

>be me
>November of 2016
can't find righ Christmas gift for geeky 15 year old son
>buy 3d printer for 15 year old geeky son
>Christmas day
>meh
>not interested in the slightest

Out of nowhere, fidget spinners errywhere

>14 year old sporty son sees potential
>he starts printing
>selling them at school
>makes enough cash to buy his own printer
>i comendeer 15 year olds printer
>open Etsi store
>now got 6 printer farm in attic space

FFWD till August 2017

>6AM
>dogs going crazy
>loud crash
>front door smashed in
>6 cops in full riot
>4 in uniform
>2 plain clothes females
>2 canine handlers
>print farm needed enclosures
>i bought "grow tents" on Amazon
>flagged me up as potential grower
>orders sent to Police Scotland heli crew
>do fly by heat signature
>comes back positive
>dawn drugs bust ordered
>give guided tour of printers
>hand out Benchies
>Police Scotland order brand new door to be fitted
>much sorry

ironic thing is, now i'm earmarked as "geeky dude with 3d printers" i could grow as much grass as i want in my attic space knowing i'll never be flagged for a bust again.

[Anonymous No.1328375]

>>1324089
build up of dust between the teeth of the extruder gear or blocked nozzle.

[Anonymous No.1328407]

>>1328324
>Wouldn't the heated nozzle cause deformities during pauses?
No. I swap filament all the time. Especially so I can use up the last little bit of filament on a roll before using a new one. If the printer doesn't retract to a park position on a pause command you can usually git a nobby zit where the pause took place. But otherwise no issues.

Here's a part where I swapped the filament three times.
>>1328350
>you make money off of 3d printing?
That's how 3dhubs works.

But you'll make a more comfortable margin designing and selling novel items through Etsy as the other reply stated.

I have a niche and sell homemade nerf blasters I design.

[Anonymous No.1328487]

>>1328363
>25mm/s
anyone want to guess the speed liru printed at?
>no retraction
interested in why none, what slicer are you using?

I owned a monoprice rebrand of that back in june, if you do upgrades dont get one of those full sdcard adapters, they destroyed my adapter.
octoprint works well with it if you have a cheap netbook or a raspberry pi and for abs/petg you NEED the heated bed mosfet mod.

printing models on the duplicator are easy, make sure you are using a good slicer, not the inferior included slicer(duh) unless you have a rase3d printer
I have been using simplify 3d for awhile due to speed slicing and not having tiny dropdowns for a single setting window, but for long prints the latest cura beta(at the time, small ones are s3d) has printed all the big models in the pic, the right ones are from the duplicator, but have been post processed and painted, blue and gold just had support removed.

post processing can be a bitch, no mater what you use, but on the primer end (needed for painting on some plastics) spray and automotive filler works if you keep it thin(you can also sand it), house primer samples are cheap, but leaves drips due to needing thinning. get a heat gun, petg was a pain for me, but helps with heated bed/ cooling mods

modwise, the zbrace is good, glass bed with pei on one side is optimal, cooler is best if it is semi circular for a ducted fan direct cooling of the hot end from both sides works with any fan.

oh, also driver wise make sure you just use what is provided, the melzi board in there has a fake ftdi chip, if you plug it into a older netbook you may brick the usb connection. then you have to return the printer 2 days before the no questions return ends.

[Anonymous No.1328490]

>>1328487
>liru calibration figures
Hey guys my boobs just aren't coming out as smooth as I see in other threads, I tried lowering my speed, raising my speed, heat, all that shit. What gives?

[Anonymous No.1328497]

>>1328490
you ave no idea how much time I had to put into making the boobs solid with the final print.
inverted nipples take priority over cloths when being made solid, causing suffering resolve and fill.

those boobs can be a new benchmark for overhangs as well, printed upside down for testing hollow tree supports, they would have been saggy otherwise.


on an other note, anyone know where to find a good non-planar slicer?
the two that I know are a post processing(very dumb) slic3r perl code and a abandoned 5 axis slicer that seems to hate the sin wave I want to test after spending half a day for it to slice the first 3 layers.

https://github.com/makertum/non-planar-layer-fdm
https://github.com/nick-parker/Bread

[Anonymous No.1328507]

>>1328497
>non-planar slicer
I didn't even know such things existed, neat.

[Anonymous No.1328557]

[Anonymous No.1328657]

>>1328363

Speed seems low, I print most stuff around 80-100mm/s on my chinkshit printer.

Try and dampen vibrations for less ringing

[Anonymous No.1328658]

>>1328372
>ironic thing is, now i'm earmarked as "geeky dude with 3d printers" i could grow as much grass as i want in my attic space knowing i'll never be flagged for a bust again.


I hope I make it one day. I've had three orders so far since last august. I wonder if another fidget spinner-like fad will come by that will let me actually make some profit.

[Anonymous No.1328678]

>>1328658

Can you do multicolor printing? Make tide pod necklaces and get on Etsy QUICK

[Anonymous No.1328792]

>>1328557
Oh nice one man, I've seen your shit in thingiverse before, I think

[Anonymous No.1328794]

>>1328678
Only if I get some crazy rainbow filament

[Anonymous No.1328806]

>>1328678
It'd be pretty easy to print them in 3 different parts and glue them together.

[Anonymous No.1328811]

>>1328372
Laughed, nice.
>got "raided" once
>found nothing
>reminded the police that my upstairs neighbor is the pot head while i was sort of drunk
>no door replacement needed since Norwegian
>police knock politely before they enter
>not even guns
>feel bad for ratting out my weed supplier
>he starts growing the next week again

Hes still at it, he does not know i let them know though. Atleast i get cheap\free weed since i comforted him after they hauled away his equipment. Even 3d printed control panels for a raspberry pi control center we diy`d.

[Anonymous No.1328813]

>>1328806
That sounds good. If printed in ABS the parts can be acetone-welded and it becomes a single piece.

What file do I have to print?

[Anonymous No.1328814]

Wait. This is a tide pod? Some kind of laundry detergent?

[Anonymous No.1328815]

>>1321687
are there any filament deals going on atm?
im looking for some good ABS

[Anonymous No.1328833]

>>1328814

Bingo. It's the latest internet food-group

[Anonymous No.1328906]

Anyone find a copy of the mini rambo for less than 76$?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mini-Rambo-1-3a-mainboard-for-Prusa-i3-MK2-3d-printer-designed-by-Ultimachine/32831259988.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.2.75985d37J7iBze&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10151_10065_10344_10068_10342_10325_10546_10343_10340_10548_10341_10084_10083_10618_10304_10307_10313_10059_10534_100031_10103_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620_10142,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=16d8a319-a53f-41ab-ad1e-81f07493723f-0&algo_pvid=16d8a319-a53f-41ab-ad1e-81f07493723f&priceBeautifyAB=0

[Anonymous No.1328931]

is the Monoprice MP Select Mini any good for miniatures? i have an anet a6 but im in need of another printer so i can increase the number of prints a aday i can do.

[Anonymous No.1328933]

>>1328372
You took the police to court to drag them through the mud right?

[Anonymous No.1328951]

>>1325352

I've got a smoothieboard and a mks sbase on my two deltas. The cartesian machine really has no need for it.

[Anonymous No.1328970]

>>1328931
you might get some z-wobble/ periodic z irregularities. Also, my prof. has an older one, and its arse. its sitting in storage doing nothing.

[Anonymous No.1328986]

>>1328970
>z-wobble
thanks for the heads up, guess its back to looking for other options.

[Anonymous No.1329030]

H-bot or coreXY for high precision? Or should i go for an entirely different printer type?

[Anonymous No.1329032]

>>1329030
coreXY, dual wire gantry or even a darwin gantry.
They say you should avoid H-bots because they introduce an angular momentum to the x-beam.

[Anonymous No.1329034]

>>1329032
Oh, I also forgot the thing the ultimaker does.
That works too.

[Anonymous No.1329158]

>>1329034
Yeah the ultimaker thingy is really cool what with reducing the weight of the actual moving part to a minimum. I'm a tiny bit dubious with that design though since the movement produced by the motor has to go through so long belts, bars and whatnot, surely that can't be good for accuracy?

[Anonymous No.1329180]

>>1329158
could say the same for coreXY, dual wire gantry and H-bot. The belts of those are even longer.
A Darwin gantry doesn't have those problems, but now you are carrying the X-Motor on the Y-Axis.
My Main concern about the Ultimakers system is the sliders on rotating shafts.
All have their pros and cons. The H-Bot issue is the worst I think with that angular momentum

[Anonymous No.1329260]

>>1328813
The CAD model you make yourself.

[Anonymous No.1329486]

>>1328813
PLA can be acetone welded as well, just not smoothed.

[Anonymous No.1329524]

>>1328792
Yes, it gets a lot of traffic on there.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2376150

>>1328931
>is the Monoprice MP Select Mini any good for miniatures?
Sure. It's just slow and small. The v1 is a pain in the dick for a few reasons. The v2 extruder is much better.

Just reroute the heated bed wires and add some PEI. I made a front-facing filament holder for all three of mine due to space constraints.

Also, the included SD cards will corrupt over time. If your prints start to layer shift just pull the card, format it, then reload all your gcode onto it.

[Anonymous No.1329566]

>>1323016
I've been using AIO filament. Smooth printing and multiple colors. Runs 11 for 500g or 17 for 1kg on Amazon

[Anonymous No.1329679]

>>1329486
>PLA can be acetone welded
if it's poor quality PLA maybe, but pure PLA isn't affected by acetone at all

[Anonymous No.1329701]

does anyone know of a way to get the z seam on the back of a model in s3d? it sucks having to use slic3r for that only reason.

[Anonymous No.1329792]

>>1329679
Idk my nigga Thomas seems to believe that acetone welding pla in general works

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZUfq0yrtv4

[Anonymous No.1329806]

>>1329792
>my nigga Thomas

Thomas is a cunt
Angus is the correct choice

[Anonymous No.1329814]

>>1329806
>Angus
He's like, the LTT of 3dprinting

>>1329792
Thomas is a cunt
The professor is the best

[Anonymous No.1329820]

>>1328951
I have a corexy and have been testing with non-planar motion
I need the most precise steps at full speed I can get

[Anonymous No.1329974]

>>1329792
>Thomas
He mistyped the script for that video

[Anonymous No.1330118]

my printer seems to severely dislike overhangs, any way i could improve the situation? a better parts cooling fan setup maybe? Pic related bolt with the left sides of the threads showing some overhang issues.

[Anonymous No.1330119]

>>1330118
Oh shit it flipped the picture, overhangs seen under the threads.

[Anonymous No.1330125]

>>1330118
What material? Try lowering the printing temp. You gotta balance between being too cold that it has problems binding layers, and being too hot that <pic related> and overhangs stick to support material too much.

[Anonymous No.1330143]

>>1330125
Oh just your plain old pla, yeah i'll try lowering temps, had 'em all the way up to 210C since my poor little extruder motor seems to want to skip steps when trying to print fast at lower temps, too bad i can't print all that fast even with the temps up high since it'll just skip, maybe i'll try to make one of them gearing systems for it.

[Anonymous No.1330207]

>>1330143
>all the way up to 210C
That's the normal temperature you should be printing at in the first place - I've never had a PLA I've printed at anything below 200, anything under that simply won't push through my hotend easily / causes skipping at normal printing speeds. I think you need a cooling fan with more airflow.

[Anonymous No.1330214]

Am I supposed to use a cooling fan for printing ABS? Searching for an answer leads to both yes and no answers with no real reasoning

I print ABS with mine on and it does just fine

[Anonymous No.1330221]

>>1330214
You'll get sharper details with a cooling fan but it can also lead to issues with layer adhesion. It's an individual choice, but I use a cooling fan when I print in an enclosure so that the air blown isn't as cold as it would be without one.

[Anonymous No.1330229]

>>1330143
>>1330207
PLA prints at 195 on my machine. Any higher and it sags.

[Anonymous No.1330231]

>>1330214
No

[Anonymous No.1330235]

>>1330207
If i need any kind of detail i always go 190C, it's pretty slow, like 40mm/s infill at 0.1mm layerheight but it's worth it for the detail.

[Anonymous No.1330237]

>>1330118
I see what you are trying to do there.
I approve.

[Anonymous No.1330301]

>>1330214

No, not with ABS. The best thing for it is actually the opposite - a heated chamber. All the expensive Stratasys machines have a chamber like that.

[Anonymous No.1330314]

>>1330229
>>1330235
this, temps can go as low as 180 depending on plastic cheapness,
average and high end pla I usually print at higher temps from 195 to 220 for surface matte/ shine.as long as it is over 170 I can print most pla at 80mm/sec.

I never skip steps, just grinds plastic and gets motor too hot.

[Anonymous No.1330553]

>>1330118
NEEDS MORE FANS

Especially if your overhang is okay on one side of the print, but not on the other.

[Anonymous No.1330638]

So umm like ya'll got any good anime girl 3d files to print or something?

[Anonymous No.1330663]

Are there any tricks for cleaning up prints other than sanding the shit out of them?

[Anonymous No.1330667]

>>1330663
Don't use a dremel unless it's a very fine grit, your part will get eaten in no time. If it's ABS, consider acetone vapor bath / brushing it with acetone.

Sanding the shit out of them is unfortunately pretty much the best solution. I've had excellent results by using 60 -> 120 -> 320 (-> optional 1000).

[Anonymous No.1330676]

>>1330663
what are you using to metal 3d print?

[Anonymous No.1330699]

>>1321912
The proprietary software have resulted in unsatisfactory prints and making a cura setting has proved challenging with the base height
I use the machine in a public facelity
Very fast machine

[Anonymous No.1330702]

Might be a dumb question, but how do I "fireproof" my prints? I want to order something made out of Shapeway's sandstone material to use as a candle enclosure but i don't want to spend the money only to find out the airflow prevents it from burning properly. Is there something I can apply to my prints that would at least *temporarily* give it fire resistance, i.e. for a minute or two to make sure the flame doesn't go out?

[Anonymous No.1330706]

>>1330702
Soak it in petroleum after it's finished printing.
Alternatively coat it in some other flame retardent?

[Anonymous No.1330711]

>>1330706
Might try petroleum, hadn't thought of that. I'm looking for the "some other flame retardant", though, that's what I'm trying to figure out.

[Anonymous No.1330713]

>>1330663
You can try scraping (similar to wood scraping). I am not sure how much you can use this on a gun, but this is good/fast way to flatten across the layer lines. It also leaves shinny texture and not matt texture you get with sanding.
I mostly use chisel for removing support material and blobs and stuff, and then I use long side edge for scraping.

>>1330702
Petg is supposed to be fire retardant. It depends on your design, but this might work. It might soften, but it wan catch flame as ABS or PLA would.

[Anonymous No.1330815]

>>1330676
It's pla

[Anonymous No.1330846]

Is there anyway to edit support material in slic3r?

[Anonymous No.1330878]

What type of plastic should i use to make an interior piece for a car? I'd imagine pla would warp/melt on a hot day. Would petg work?

[Anonymous No.1330900]

>>1330878
I'd go for the highest temp plastic you can get, but ABS should be fine. Vid related: https://youtu.be/TTswoDnxYHs

[Anonymous No.1330901]

>>1330878
>>1330900
PETG*** should be fine, sorry

[Anonymous No.1330904]

>>1330711
Anon don't.

[Anonymous No.1330921]

>>1330901
this, have a esun petg octopus that has survived for 10 months in a hot car. car faces east-west so sun is only on it for 50% of the day, but has no distortion or bleaching.

[Anonymous No.1330955]

>>1330846
This is how you dont ask questions.

[Anonymous No.1330996]

>>1330955

Que?

[Anonymous No.1331015]

I need to do a run of PETG parts just slightly larger than my current printers and it would be cheaper to just buy an inexpensive model than get the work done by a third party.

With that in mind, Wanhao i3 Plus, Cetus or Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus?

[Anonymous No.1331191]

>>1330663
looks suspiciously like a KWC airsoft 1911 10mm delta elite that i had.

nice print i guess.

[Anonymous No.1331195]

>>1330663
Based on the magazine, I'd say your bed could do with being a little closer to the nozzle. Not a great deal but just a fraction.

[Anonymous No.1331222]

Anet A8 here.
With a 0.5mm nozzle printing at 0.4mm I'm noticing under extrusion. A lot of it. Also the power cable from the PSU to the printer gets noticeably warmer than usual. It barely used to heat up before.

Is my printer incapable of printing at greater than 0.3mm? I've got a 0.8mm nozzle coming from China too.

[Anonymous No.1331224]

>>1331222
That's a pretty big layer for the nozzle, it would be like doing 0.32 on a 0.4 nozzle.

[Anonymous No.1331271]

>>1331015
Why not a CR-10mini or CR-10S? Good quality out of the box and its having a large community. Also fits your price range and you can get them often cheaper through discounts.

[Anonymous No.1331280]

I'm trying to print ABS without an enclosure and have had little success. I've got a few prints to come out, but there was initially bed adhesion issues and then layer adhesion.

I cranked the bed up to 100, but now that my bed is seasoned it seems to stick fine at 82 C.

I printed a few test cubes and they werent bad, but had some splitting on the sides where the area pulled due to shrinking. I tweaked the settings and moved on to a real print: the leveler wheels. Now when I check on the printer instead of layer after layer of plastic, I get this weird sporadic crumbly plastic in the shape of what I want printed. The plastic is stuck to the bed, and the first few layers look fine, but then things get fucky. I printed a go pro mount that was an inch or so high, so I figured ambient temperature shouldn't an issue for these little wheels that aren't nearly as tall and have the radiant heat from the bed to keep them warm.

I occasionally hear a crack or a pop, but the filament is new. Before I go throwing my new ABS in the oven (is that even safe if I plan on using the oven for food later?) I thought I would post my settings.

Cooling is off
brim set to 5mm
all at once print, though it shouldnt matter because I've reduced the print down to a single object until I get things dialed in correctly.

[Anonymous No.1331282]

>>1331280
Also, whats a cheap source of glass for making new beds? I had a piece set aside in my garage and it has vanished. I was saving that shit for 10 years because one day I would need it to finally fix my mother's clock face, but decided to use it for my printer instead. The day I finally decide to use that crap it's fucking gone. Really rustles my jimmies.

[Anonymous No.1331286]

>>1331280
I the printer to print another test cube and I can see it coming out fine, so I don't think the nozzle is compromised. The only thing I can think of is that the cube prints completely hollow and that somehow the printer is fucking up trying to get the infill down. I guess I'll see what I can do with the infill settings. The wheel creator said to use 0 infill, so I guess I'll see what that does.

[Anonymous No.1331328]

>>1331282
You can't really use "regular" glass for 3D printing due to warping and strength issues - what you generally need is borosilicate glass. It's cheap enough, maybe $10-20 on Amazon of the size you need.

[Anonymous No.1331365]

>>1331328
So cutting an old mirror or window wouldn't work at all? :/ I mainly need it as a spare clean bed for doing TPU

[Anonymous No.1331367]

>>1331365
>>1331282
I used mirrored tiles from the hardware store, works really good. 12x12 with 2mm thick. Way better than pane glass and it was $10 for like 5 of them at Menards.

Ive had mirrors that might as well have been pane glass and ive had mirrors that were thick as fuck and would never work.

If you want to use mirror dont cut up an old one, go get mirrored tiles at the hardware store. They are made to be stuck to the wall with no borders so they have to be tough

[Anonymous No.1331433]

>>1331286
The wheel finished printing and it looks like a wheel shaped brillo pad.

[Anonymous No.1331467]

>>1331224
What's the biggest I can print on a 0.5mm nozzle? Was 0.4mm too thick?

What about the 0.8mm nozzle?

[Anonymous No.1331470]

>>1331467
Generally keep your layers heights sub 80% of what your nozzle diameter is. So your just at the tip of ok. But now when you are pushing a lot more plastic out have to make sure your extruder can keep up, it also helps to run your hot end a little bit hotter.

[Anonymous No.1331482]

>tfw brainlet
>just want to print little toys
>read all the OP links
>still don’t fully grasp anything
Print me a new brain, bros

[Anonymous No.1331493]

>>1331482
You're better off paying Shapeways or 3DHubs to do it for you, then

[Anonymous No.1331494]

>>1330815
>pla
for what purpose?

[Anonymous No.1331497]

Been looking at the flashforge finder as my entry into printing. Anyone have any complaints about it? If I want to make larger pieces since it only does about 5 inches h/w/l wise am I able to print it in pieces and assemble it? Thanks for the info if you answer

[Anonymous No.1331498]

>>1331271
Thank you. For some reason, I was under the impression that the CR series is a good printer to build on. I've just eliminated the Anycubic and the Wanhao for various reason and the Cetus is irritating me because it has some really nice features but also some horrible shortcomings.

[Anonymous No.1331501]

>>1331493
This or Da Vinci Jr with its DRM filament cancer.

[Anonymous No.1331502]

>>1331328
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vy30E6wJIz4

I'm gonna chop an old mirror tomorrow and use it for lower temp plastics. I need a clean bed and would rather put the time into making a new one than cleaning off all the tape etc for a limited run.

[Anonymous No.1331503]

>>1331470
But 80% of 0.5 is 0.4, and the power cables are a concern.

I've decided to do the Bowden v6 thing instead cause I saw some guy in YouTube printing at 150mm/s on my printer with that.

>>1331482
If you want to make your own models I recommend starting with tinkercad, it's what I use and probably the most beginner friendly.

If you want to print your models, use Cura to process it and copy it to an SD card. It has some preset quality settings like low, medium, or high.

Once you start to feel a bit more confident you can try fiddling with more settings to improve the quality of your print.

I'm an absolute brainlet too and wasted somewhere between 50-100m of PLA just getting things right.

If you can't understand what needs to be done through written guides then check YouTube.

>>1331328
What's the advantage of a glass bed over the regular metal ones with tape on them?

[Anonymous No.1331506]

>>1331501
I'm not OP, but I have a Da-Vinci Jr 1.0. I might see about using custom firmware so I can use different filament as I don't like paying a high amount for this DRM filament and I would also like to use custom colors or patterns.Even though they would probably be more expensive, I would like to buy gold or wood grain filament, and the only way I could use that with the printer, I would need to use a custom firmware.

[Anonymous No.1331551]

>>1331328
>You can't really use "regular" glass for 3D printing due to warping and strength issues - what you generally need is borosilicate glass

I use regular glass. It just works. Borosilicate glass breaks just the same.

[Anonymous No.1331552]

>>1331280
I th ink your problem is a combination of printing without enclosure and printing on a printer that will inevitably cool down the part as it's moving along the Y axis. Get a large cardboard box and place it on top of your printer. You'll definitely see an improvement.

[Anonymous No.1331561]

>>1331551
>. It just works. Borosilicate glass breaks just the same.

This is objectively wrong

[Anonymous No.1331576]

I printed my first object after designing it using OpenSCAD, and it's mostly fine. Only issue is that it is intended to have spherical endcaps, but OpenSCAD breaks that down into a bunch of rhombuses (probably triangles internally) and prints with about 40 flat sections around each segment -- sort of like a disco mirror ball.

Is there any way to make OpenSCAD use true circles/spheres? Would other CAD programs generate true round parts?

[Anonymous No.1331577]

>>1321820
>I torrented a copy of it
Are there any recommended torrents for SolidWorks? I actually bought a license while I was a student, but by the time I built a machine that would work with it they expired the key.

[Anonymous No.1331578]

>>1331576
>true circle/sphere with polygons
All you can really do is increase the resolution of the process that turns your CAD circle into polygons, for example you could get 400 or 4000 facets instead of 40

[Anonymous No.1331579]

>>1323222
>zero sweep or taper
why not just use a 2x4 from Home Depot

[Anonymous No.1331581]

>>1323014
>it's a safety thing mostly. If the plug has to go into the socket to reach the contacts, there's a lower possibility of touching the contacts (or the plug when it's touching the contacts) when plugging or unplugging, unlike US plugs.
Pointless, when there have been magnetic-connector outlet designs for over a hundred years. No magnet => the contacts don't even get power to them because the spring-loaded thingies behind the outlet don't pull forward to connect. Disconnecting the "plug" automatically safes the outlet so toddlers can shove forks and fingers and tongues in it all they want.

These really should be standard for everyone. And it's easy to retrofit plugs, you just make an adapter that you plug the plug into.

[Anonymous No.1331582]

>>1331576
add $fn = 100; to your openscad file to increase the resolution of round parts

[Anonymous No.1331588]

>>1331579
Sweep is more or less useless for my application and as for taper i'm way too lazy, cutting out balsa airfoil profile is hard fucking work and making them all the same size makes it faster and easier.

[Anonymous No.1331593]

>>1331577
Pretty much all the solidworks torrents I saw were being watched, so I opted for inventor instead and pretty happy.

>>1331503
Check your board, check the gauge of wire from the PSU to the board, also if you haven't external mosfet for the heated bed, it draws a lot of power at higher temps and anet is known to start house fires due to the shortcuts they took for the power situation.

Also glass is cheaper to get it "flat" over the cheap metal beds.

[Anonymous No.1331600]

Sanding is hell, but I knew that going into this and it should be worth it in the end

[Anonymous No.1331651]

>>1331576

[Anonymous No.1331653]

>>1331576

[Anonymous No.1331683]

>>1331593
>Pretty much all the solidworks torrents I saw were being watched

What does that mean

[Anonymous No.1331687]

>>1331683
The company is seeing who torrents them and tries to get in touch with your ISP and will try to send you a bill

[Anonymous No.1331691]

Here's a continuation post to the RC airplane project i posted about earlier if anyone happened to be interested
>>1322280
>>1322969
>>1323221
As you might see from the picture i ended up going with a lot bigger aspect ratio (the wingspan is still the same 2 meters) than what i first thought i'd go with, i wanted to go with 50 which would have meant a chord of 40mm but i just couldn't get my spars to have a big enough hole for the 3mm carbon fiber rod at the height of 4mm so i ended up going with a height of 4.4mm and a chord of 44mm which gives me an aspect ratio of somewhere around 45 which is completely fine.
I decided to space the spars around 5cm apart which ought to give me nice structural strength without much weight.
I'm still figuring out how to attach these two 1 meter wing halves to my carbon fiber rod frame but i'm sure i'll manage now that i've got a 3d printer.

[Anonymous No.1331697]

>>1331593
>watched
How can you tell?

[Anonymous No.1331701]

>>1331691
Oh and also here's the 3d design for the spars if anyone happened to be interested in building something similar.
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/kai77JNvspg
I also forgot to mention that i will have 3mm x 0.5mm carbon fiber slates for the leading edge and the trailing edge.
And this might come a bit out of nowhere but would there happen to be someone here with the time, motivation, and expertise to model winglets for this airfoil that i'm using (this one http://airfoiltools.com/airfoil/details?airfoil=hq3015-il)) Doing this might be a lot of work so i'm not really expecting anyone to do it but it would be really cool.

[Anonymous No.1331724]

>>1331551
>>1331561
At 3DP temperatures, it really shouldn't matter whether you use boro or soda-lime glass. I used to do glass artwork. The temperature to melt soda-lime is around 530C. A piddly 220C isn't going to overstress it, not with the extrusion size that we're generally using (because the heat content just isn't enough). Once you've done the base layer it won't even notice the temperature differentials. If you're heating the bed, it's not gonna care at all.

[Anonymous No.1331727]

>>1331653
Well played!

>>1331578
>>1331582
Thanks!

>>1331687
I'll just do it from a restaurant or library. Not really a problem in this country (shithole Asia) anyway, the government doesn't care.

[Anonymous No.1331728]

If you dont use borosilicate or tempered glass, you are risking the glass being chipped/shattered when you are removing a print.

[Anonymous No.1331729]

>>1327330
Another point about PETG vs. PLA is that PLA can be solvent-welded, while PETG cannot be. This may or may not matter depending on the application.

[Anonymous No.1331733]

>>1331729
>PLA can be solvent-welded
[citation needed]

[Anonymous No.1331734]

>>1331733
>>1331729
Indeed, the only solvents I'm aware of are very toxic. Acetone just won't cut it with most types of PLA unless it's very low-end or has additives.

[Anonymous No.1331735]

>>1331733
>>1329792
Watch the video senpai.

[Anonymous No.1331739]

>>1331734
That was what I was after.
>>1331735
PLA that melts with aceton is not PLA

[Anonymous No.1331743]

>>1331733
>>1331734
Dichloromethane aka Methylene Chloride. It's not especially toxic, although it's a long-term carcinogen like a few million other things.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ZXGVZ5mKrs

[Anonymous No.1331745]

>>1331735
Stop shilling that German retard

[Anonymous No.1331752]

>>1331497
Bumping for opinions

[Anonymous No.1331753]

http://www.3ders.org/articles/20180214-marlin-3d-printer-firmware-developer-thinkyhead-seeking-support.html

[Anonymous No.1331760]

First time I've heard of this printer, any opinions on it? Looks like a kickstarter-backed project, but actually successful.

[Anonymous No.1331766]

>>1331752
Qidi tech X one, same size, but heated bed, slightly better construction.

Or you go for the go to CR10 / CR10s

for splinting large objects use netfabb / meshmixer

>>1331760
I think for the price point it's at, I'd be more interested in a peopoly moai or looking for a form 1+ used or wait a little while longer until more reviews come out.

[Anonymous No.1331772]

>>1331766
Learned about the Moai recently as well. Really hoping the Form3 is just around the corner. Where can I find reviews for printers that aren't paid off or blatantly favoring a specific brand/printer?

[Anonymous No.1331780]

>>1331766
>>1331772
Ugh. My former company had a FormLabs printer, not sure which model but it sucked. The company gave up and bought a filament-based printer. The FormLabs one was still sitting there when I left; I don't think they'd even turned it on again in three years.

[Anonymous No.1331784]

So, we're at bump limit. Anyone going to start a new one?

[Anonymous No.1331786]

>>1331784
>not page 9/10

[Anonymous No.1331788]

>>1331780
>three years
Probably the Form 1; the F2 isn't quite 3 yet, I think, and I've heard it's a marked improvement over the F1

[Anonymous No.1331817]

>>1331780
yeah the thing with resin printers, they are very well suited for their niche area, if you fall outside of it either have to go for the big boy names or go to FDM / SLS depending on what you are exactly you are trying to do with it.

>>1331772
Find normal users ask them, talk to a few of them, if you can find a business that runs one of the machines and ask them.

[Anonymous No.1331834]

>>1331734
>>1331743
Ethyl acetate works fine, with similar toxicity to acetone. Of course, proper ventilation, is always a requirement for these things.

[Anonymous No.1331890]

>>1331728
>you are risking the glass being chipped/shattered when you are removing a print.

That's bullshit. Well, maybe it isn't, but in my experience the print removes itself once the glass has cooled down enough with no chipping at all. Maybe after a few hundred prints this will actually cause a breakage?

[Anonymous No.1331893]

>>1331890
Seen it shatter 2 times, 3 times chipping for 4 different people. Enjoy living dangerously.

[Anonymous No.1331930]

Did you guys print anything for Valentine’s Day?

[Anonymous No.1331986]

>>1331930
A little Japanese lantern as a prototype. Not for Valentine's specifically, though.

[Anonymous No.1332110]

>>1331930
a gf

[Anonymous No.1332147]

>>1331760
Looks like an Wanhao D7 with a bunch of leds instead of a big one. Now that FDM has so many 100$ printers people are going for SLA? I can't wait until the same happens to polyjet

[Anonymous No.1332271]

How bad does the PLA smell when printing?

[Anonymous No.1332277]

>>1332271

Not bad at all. Pleasant, even.

Still open a window tho

[Anonymous No.1332279]

>>1332147
I hope so. I've been wanting a Form 2 pretty much since it came out but it's getting old now; hoping the next line comes out soon

[Anonymous No.1332316]

Can anyone share any experiences making useable tools with 3d printing? Was just talking to boss; he was asking if I could print some sort of breaker to help him remove some prefilters on his boat. Off the cuff mentioned that PETG sounded like an appropriate material.

[Anonymous No.1332321]

>>1332277
Well if it has a smell I have to print outside. I live with my grandpa and he’s got stage four cancer, any smell sets him off. He wanted to see it print stuff, might have to videotape it or put it by a window for him. Thanks for the heads up

[Anonymous No.1332324]

>>1332321
PLA's a corn derivative; I wouldn't even worry about ventilation (it's as toxic as cooking). Smells a bit like popcorn when you notice it.

[Anonymous No.1332347]

>>1332324
He can’t really be around when I cook either. I just needed to know where to build the set up. I’ll bring the printer inside while it’s not in use and use it outside probably

[Anonymous No.1332352]

>>1332347
Make sure it's not cold/drafty where you use it, if the bed's too cold the print will detach

[Anonymous No.1332367]

>>1332352
I didn’t think of that!

Where do you guys have your set-ups?

[Anonymous No.1332373]

>>1332367
If you're super worried about the emissions, build an enclosure and use an active carbon filter.

[Anonymous No.1332379]

>>1332352
>>1332367
Depending on your printer you could just store it inside and move it out for printing, that way the bed will be farm for the first layer, just put some gluestick on the bed and i doubt that it'll detach (assuming you're printing with pla) sometimes i but too much gluestick on my bed and the prints are really hard to remove.

[Anonymous No.1332384]

>>1332367
I built an enclosure for my printer out of these panels - One for each side, so 6 total. Works great to insulate it and keep it safe from drafts. I ended up replacing the front panel with 4 smaller ones which have alphabet cutouts so I could monitor the print without taking off the entire front panel.

[Anonymous No.1332467]

>>1332321
How do I minimize vibrations on my printer?

I want to start printing at fast speeds.
Hyper fast.

[Anonymous No.1332470]

>>1332467
Bolt it down, make sure your carriages are lightweight as possible, tighten all your belts, oil/grease the crap out of rotating/sliding parts.

[Anonymous No.1332472]

>>1332470
I can't bolt it to the table, my mom would kill me.

Is a slab of wood fine?

[Anonymous No.1332485]

>>1332472
If it's heavy enough to not bounce around the table when it's on, it should be fine. Take care that your printer doesn't tear itself apart, though.

[Anonymous No.1332523]

>>1332485
I want my nozzle to move at the speed of sound

[Anonymous No.1332530]

>>1332467
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBmgC3fTCG0

[Anonymous No.1332552]

>>1332472
A lot of people go to IKEA and buy a "Lack" table to bolt their machine to. They are about $8 and are like a little end table.

[Anonymous No.1332644]

>Get laser cutter with huge bed at work
>a scrapped project left us with a bunch of nice, leftover plywood and a couple of clear acrylic sheets

Time to make the fanciest goddamn printer enclosure the world

[Anonymous No.1332660]

I was looking at cheap 3d printers on ebay. Again.

Are any of them any good? or to be avoided.

Another question is could one fit a lazer to one ? Or do they not have fine enough control to be worth while.

[Anonymous No.1332698]

>>1332660
Tronxy X1 or one of the copies (many of which have a better buikd quality) or a tronxy copy of the prusa, both, with some tinkering, will work well. I've got a Tronxy X1 and it's great but i kinda wish i had invested like 40e more and got a slightly better machine.

[Anonymous No.1332714]

>material wont stick to the bed
>bed is already at max temp
>extruder close to it too

what do?

[Anonymous No.1332742]

my pc suck, and been thinking in building 3d stuff for printing.
would a gaming notebook be ok, or is way overkill for the job?

[Anonymous No.1332746]

>>1332714

Pritt Stick on the bed.

[Anonymous No.1332749]

>>1332742

Overkill, I use an old Thinkpad T400 with Intel graphics, plenty of grunt to run FreeCAD

[Anonymous No.1332761]

I have too many orders to fill.

[Anonymous No.1332776]

>>1332761
What pricetag do you put on these babies, and whats the time/profit like?

[Anonymous No.1332804]

>>1332761
Have you ever had any complaint related to part breakage?

[Anonymous No.1332806]

>>1332749
Slicing is kind of slow even in my i5-4440, on my i5-3337u laptop it takes several seconds in order for the slicer to process small tweaks or even moving a part on the build plate.

A gaming laptop is not a bad choice at all for the task.

[Anonymous No.1332809]

>>1332806
>Several seconds
You're actually retarded.

[Anonymous No.1332812]

>>1332809
Time is money, buddy

[Anonymous No.1332832]

>>1332806
Turn off autoslicing

[Anonymous No.1332874]

How hard is it to build the Prusa kits? Looking at the MK2 and want to build one to understand how it works andnto repair it down then line. Anyone have one of these? How good are they?

[Anonymous No.1332878]

>>1332746
is this a meme or does it acutally work?

[Anonymous No.1332898]

>>1332698
The X1 looks sexy as hell.

By Prusa clone, you mean something like :
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Tronxy-Auto-Level-P802MA-Reprap-Prusa-I3-DIY-3D-Printer-Kit-High-precision-Three-dimensional-3D/32827357229.html

[Anonymous No.1332906]

>>1332761
What is it? Glue gun?

[Anonymous No.1332925]

>>1332906
It's a nerf gun for military simulations

[Anonymous No.1332926]

>>1332878

Really really helps my dude

[Anonymous No.1332931]

>>1332832
this.

also own a gaming laptop, I can get massive models to slice and repair without error. slicing is still a bitch, it's if you have fast memory and storage,

[Anonymous No.1332973]

>>1332776
$59 for just the hardware so you can print the parts yourself
$110 for the kit
$140 assembled
>>1332804
It happens. Some filaments are just garbage, or there's a random filament hiccup in the middle of a part that I don't catch during inspection. I replace any part that breaks within the first 2 months for free.
Durability has improved immensely since I switched to aluminum tubing for the ramrod and for the majority of the orders I ship them with sears printed from ABS instead of PLA.
>>1332906
Grossly Overpowered Nerf

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2376150

[Anonymous No.1332986]

>>1332973
Only the sears are ABS? Everything else PLA?

[Anonymous No.1333047]

>>1332986
Correct.

The piece that goes at the end of the plunger tube is printed with 2mm perimeters and 100% infill, and the Sear should be also though the PLA ones tend to round off after 1,000 shots or so. The ABS ones don't have that issue.

All of the other parts are a minimum of 1mm perimeters and 20% infill.

[Anonymous No.1333053]

>>1332530
>that crazy wobbling
Jeesus dude bolt it down or something, other than that, really fucking cool.

[Anonymous No.1333094]

>>1332530
That's a neat little box

[Anonymous No.1333101]

>>1333047
How solid does it feel in person? I'd expect it to be really fragile, especially in a brittle plastic like PLA

[Anonymous No.1333102]

>slicer is treating my walls as fill areas
>zig-zagging around the perimeter to build wall thickness instead of nice smooth concentric paths all the way around the perimeter

What the hell kind of setting did I accidentally change in Cura to have this happen? So much unnecessary wear on my belts and friction on my prints

[Anonymous No.1333108]

>>1333102

[Anonymous No.1333146]

>>1333101
>brittle
Dude you aren't giving PLA enough credit, this tank track design i made was able to withstand over 40kg of weight before breaking.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2773366

[Anonymous No.1333147]

>>1333102
Could you elaborate a bit more? Post more pics, also what version of Cura is that? Mine doesn't look the same.

[Anonymous No.1333156]

>>1333147
It's Cura for BCN3D.

Here's a print that straight up delaminated. You can see the jagged outline around the part

There's also really bad blobbing but I think I just need to get fresh filament for that

[Anonymous No.1333159]

>>1333156
How does a print even delaminate? What the hell is going on with your shit, what plastic are you printing? i'm running a piece of shit china kit and i've never gotten any weird problems like that. also
>jeesus those blobs
Can't you just tweak your retraction or something?

[Anonymous No.1333162]

>>1333159
>What the hell is going on with your shit
I know, right?

I forgot to mention that my settings have worked perfectly up until the last few prints.

It's GizmoDorks 3mm gray ABS on a BCN3D Sigma. It's not very old and its kept in an enclosure so it isn't brittle and shitty. Retraction is pretty high - 7mm at 70mm/s - but it's always been fine before. Maybe I got a spool that is relatively significantly different diameter from what I had in the past, I dunno.

I'm going to try a print sliced with Simplify3D and see what results I get. I always just used Cura because it worked well enough in the past.

[Anonymous No.1333163]

>>1333146
>was able to withstand over 40kg of weight
40 kg tells me literally nothing

How many pascals? How was the stress applied?

I say it's brittle because while it's very hard it's not flexible like PETG.

[Anonymous No.1333164]

>>1333101
>I'd expect it to be really fragile, especially in a brittle plastic like PLA
PLA isn't that brittle unless you're exposing it to a ton of moisture over a really long time. The decent rolls of PLA I'm using are about as durable as plain polystyrene.

I was originally attempting to cast the majority of the parts and I did produce the first 10 of these that way. But once you add pigments to Urethane resins that are above 50A durometer their rated impact resistance (2.2 izod) starts to fall below that of PLA (1.7 izod).

The parts are way bulkier than they need to be in any areas where loads are expected. I ran mine through 2,000 shots before the parts started to flex in spots, so those are the areas I made thicker.

The PLA isn't tasked with providing structure in very many places anyways. There's 10-32 threaded rod taking up the vast majority of the tensile load. I also have a length of it running from the stock to the bottom of the grip.

[Anonymous No.1333166]

>>1333162
>Retraction is pretty high - 7mm at 70mm
Do you really have that much backlash in your bowden? Mine is terrible and I use 5.2 - 5.8 at most

What bed temp are you using? Is the printer itself enclosed?

[Anonymous No.1333170]

>>1333166
When I first got the printer (used) I dialed in those retraction settings because anything less led to blobbing and pimples on the outside. The bed is at 90 C and the whole printer is enclosed in a high-tech cardboard box.

[Anonymous No.1333176]

>>1333163
Yes 40kg tells you a lot, it tells you that the chain was able to withstand a force of around 390N what more can you want? And the stress was applied evenly enough for the chain to not break in the mounting points but in the middle which is good enough for me atleast.

[Anonymous No.1333180]

>>1333164
Have you thought about designing a firing system that doesn't use sliding sears and such? They don't really seem all that good for plastics, couldn't you quite easily design a system that uses numerous pivot points and so on? infact show me the current trigger ssytem and i'll design you a better one.

[Anonymous No.1333185]

>>1333164
Man i've heard a lot of good things about those MP Selects, i'm kinda bummed that i didn't get one myself and i can't really justify buying another printer.

[Anonymous No.1333205]

>>1333176
>Yes 40kg tells you a lot

It really doesn't
A few toilet paper rolls with a plank on top of them can withstand the weight of a grown person if they're oriented just right
Does that mean toilet paper rolls are a good building material?
No

PLA has a weird feel to it, it's like it's absorbing moisture and biodegrading right in your hands. I know it won't crumble overnight, I've left a few parts outside under sun and rain for weeks and they're still strong, it just feels different from ABS for example.

If there was an ABS filament that was as easy to print on an open printer like PLA it would be ideal

[Anonymous No.1333215]

>>1333180
This image is a little out of date. The current version is heavier, stiffer, and doesn't bother with the trigger return spring. It's just a basic airsoft style sear lever.
The machined version used a sliding plate with a hole drilled in it.

The STEP files are available from the thingiverse link if you want to dick around with it in CAD on your own.

>>1333185
The V1s are shitty and can have buggy firmware. V2s are easy to improve and all you need to do is reroute the heated bed wires and add a better buildplate surface. I put PEI on all of mine.

[Anonymous No.1333251]

>>1333205
>If there was an ABS filament that was as easy to print on an open printer like PLA it would be ideal
Petg?

[Anonymous No.1333379]

>>1333215
I don't know jack shit about any proper CAD software so you'll have to settle for paint, i'm sure you'll understand what i'm trying to present in this picture and if something's unclear just tell me.
Now obviously this kind of system will wear as well but i think that it will last for a lot longer.

[Anonymous No.1333408]

>>1333162
>Retraction is pretty high - 7mm at 70mm/s
That might actually be too high, if retraction length and speed are too high the hot plastic in the nozzle will separate from the cooler plastic and then you get blobs.

[Anonymous No.1333477]

I'm getting these annoying defects on the surface layers of my prints if there is an additional complication present like the hole in this case, anything i could do to fix this?

[Anonymous No.1333491]

>>1333477

Maybe turn the speed down, see if that helps the perimiters line up around the gaps

[Anonymous No.1333495]

>>1333477
checklist:
calibrate extruder.
z-distance looks too far/close, bed not level.
test retractions.

print specific:
if its PLA, do you have cooling?
try adding a small brim, it seems kind of unstable.
try setting z-seam to aligned.

[Anonymous No.1333506]

>>1333491
I doubt that it's that as that print was already really quite slow speed
>>1333495
I've already got most of those dealt with but i'll see if i can make a difference by playing with the z-seam and whatnot.

[Anonymous No.1333517]

>>1333477

What printer? What are you using to drive the z axis?

[Anonymous No.1333518]

>>1333517
Tronxy X1, amd as for the z axis, it came with this hella bent rod and i've had wrap electrical tape around one of the rollers to keep em tight so they might well be the causee of all of my problems and misery.

[Anonymous No.1333540]

>>1333518

Bingo. Get some lead screws and replace that shit

[Anonymous No.1333615]

Man what the hell these things show up even on pieces without any abnormalities like holes, it think it has something to do with the nozzle moving inwards to do the infill after the outer layer and therefore dragging a few hundred microns worth of pla with it.

[Anonymous No.1333656]

>>1331784
now its time, 100 over bump limit

[Anonymous No.1333662]

Do deported feeding offers any disadventage over direct feeding ?

[Anonymous No.1333665]

>>1333662
Lower weight for the actual moving part, which can actually be a pretty big advantage, other than that there are only downsides really, you get slightly less precision on how you can control the filament, your retraction amount has to be higher for example.

[Anonymous No.1333667]

>>1333615
is that only one perimeter, or two?
one perimeter is harder to get a nice surface finish.
might want to consider z-hop.

you also might have too high a layer height.
nozzle diameter?
layer height?

a good rule of thumb, is:
where optimal layer height is the nearest full step layer height
OLH ≈ .8*NozzleDia

if you're using a .3mm nozzle, those errors might start to disappear around .2 and .15 heights.
i get strange layer behavior, if i print too fast, or too cold; the extruder lags too much after speed changes/retracts.
try slower perimeters.

[Anonymous No.1333669]

>>1333379
You're not as intelligent as you think you are.
In you current diagram, a trigger pull would be pushing the "sear" backwards. Even if we adjusted your design to work the way you think it would, the "sear" would not drop enough to allow the bolt to pass, it would need too large of a rotation to actually allow the bolt to pass, it would be too slow at the break and the prolonged contact and slow pressure release would cause more wear than his original design.

[Anonymous No.1333670]

>>1333665
>you get slightly less precision on how you can control the filament

can prints quality be impacted by that ?

[Anonymous No.1333673]

>>1333670
I feel like a heavier print head would cause way more problems than the drop in filament control unless you have a heavy duty movement system

[Anonymous No.1333687]

>>1333669
Dude what the hell are you on about? All of the proportions can be changed and even with just playing around with shapes for 5 minutes i managed to make it work sufficiently enough to demonstrate the concept, i guess even the incredibly simple paint drawing was too hard to understand for some.

[Anonymous No.1333689]

>>1333670
While i can't really be all that sure about the extent that it matters i can say that a lot of high quality systems like the ultimaker use a bowden style setup with quite long tubes, and i can quite safely say that ultimakers have pretty nice print quality.

[Anonymous No.1333690]

Just ordered my Prusa i3 MK2s kit. Super nervous and excited to get into 3D printing. Been using AutoCAD for about 3 years now for blueprint purposes. Hope I do well.

[Anonymous No.1333691]

>>1333673
real current issues with print head weight is:
acceleration before resonance issues occur.

heavy print heads can get into the 70mm/s speeds rather easily and maintain equivalent quality.

a larger issue with moving the print head around is motor steps being visible in the extruded filament.

essentially, if you don't have 1/32 or smaller capable step drivers, for bowden setups, the limiting factor for quality is not the carriage weights.

for prints that require lots of retracts, there wont really be a loss in quality, but an increase in print times.

bowden is really great when you can push the extruder higher than 250c, have a strong extruder motor, good stepper drivers, and lightweight X and Y parts.
i feel that, unless you're breaking into the 120mm/s range, bowden is not worth the annoyance.

[Anonymous No.1333698]

>>1333687
Yes and you have a really sloppy break and a lot of wear on that sear.

[Anonymous No.1333712]

>>1333673
>>1333689
>>1333691

thx a lot for thoose explanations.
the thing is i want to mount a 3D printer head on a cnc frame,
the frame is pretty rigid, i use to mill aluminium on it, so i guess i will go for the bowden type.

[Anonymous No.1333717]

>>1333712
Do a direct drive. A milling machine frame wouldnt resonate/bend under the momentum of a 1/4kg stepper motor.

[Anonymous No.1333724]

>>1332316
Don't think anyone in this thread knows enough about boats to answer your question. More info would be useful.

[Anonymous No.1333725]

>>1333656
>>1331786
>>1331784
idk tho
consensus of the general was to wait until the thread is bumped off the board before making another thread

[Anonymous No.1333740]

>>1333725
better than /h/'s twin threads, slow enough not to care either way.

just make sure the new thread follows image and links back when I browse for it

[Anonymous No.1333741]

>>1333725
>>1333712

>bowden type
yes of course i mean direct one

[Anonymous No.1333745]

>>1333725
This is now a sfur thread.

[Anonymous No.1333748]

>>1333669
>>1333687
It's a form of toggle link. The same kind use for the action of a luger.

It would be annoying to get right, but can be figured out in assembly model using constraints. I don't know when I'll have time to fiddle with the idea but it would work provided you find the right moment angles and distances.

[Anonymous No.1333764]

>>1333698
It will have less wear on the sear because it has less friction and the break can be as fine as you please, just adjust the angels to your own liking.
>>1333748
I guess you could compare it to a Luger action yes, please do post your results if you ever bother tinkering with the concept.

[Anonymous No.1333799]

>>1333724
Wish I had it; other than the fact that they strain seawater to cool the engine and screw on somehow I'm in the dark. He made it sound like he used a wrench to take them off normally and the process chewed them up a bit.

[Anonymous No.1333800]

>>1333748
I don't know how you compare that to a luger sear.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7x7FCogiB-c

[Anonymous No.1333806]

>>1333799
Sounds like all he's asking for is a tool that fits these filters specifically so that it will be easy to take them off. A "breaker" could be a little prybar that pops clips loose, or it could be something more like a strap-wrench that fits around a cylindrical filter body. Depends on the shape, size, position, and other-stuff-in-the-way of the filters.

There's no generic answer. You have to look at what's necessary and work from there.

Someone posted a few photos of his grandfather's tool set for working on the SR-71 once upon a time. There were a couple of dozen different wrenches and the only real differences between them and normal off-the-shelf stuff were a few bends in the shafts, or maybe some material milled off, because they needed clearance around other chunks of metal that were always getting in the way.

[Anonymous No.1333812]

>>1333806
I get that; what I'm wonedering about is other people's experiences with building custom tools with plastic (if any). He mentioned one of his friends had made something out of wood, so I'm guessing the stresses probably aren't extreme.

[Anonymous No.1333823]

>>1333800
Not Luger sear, just the knee joint thingy, an understandable connection to make even thought the basis of operation or the purpose is not the same they look very similar and the concept is quite similar.

[Anonymous No.1333828]

>>1333812
Depending on your infill settings, how many surface layers and so on even simple PLA can be quite strong so go ahead, make your boss happy!

[Anonymous No.1333851]

>>1333823
I see, good luck figuring out the reset though.

By the way what specifically was wrong with your current sear? I can't figure out why he thought you should change it. His would have even more wear as the bolt tries to force its way past the dropping sear (and forcing the trigger back).

[Anonymous No.1333852]

>>1333745
the fuck?

[Anonymous No.1333869]

>>1333851
I'm not him but let me explain a bit, in the traditional sear you have the mainsprings force pressing upon the sear at all times and then you have the sear sliding, now you have to remember that friction is force times coefficient of friction. Therefore with the traditional sear design you have all that force concentrated on that one spot at the tip of the sear that is in contact with the mainspring or whatever, no wonder that it'll round out quickly with plastics like PLA.
Now when it comes to the joint mechanism you notice that the sear isn't really sliding against the bolt before being released and you know what happens after it is released? It doesn't have a lot of force pressing on it, or rather there's nothing to keep it in place while the mainspring is pressing on it and therefore there is less friction on the sear surface. Now i presume that there will be more friction in all of those joints and whatnot but i believe that wearing will be very little since it is plastic on metal contact, very little friction and if you want you can even add lubricant on those surfaces.
And that is why i believe that the joint style system is superior for applications like this where we're dealing with materials that aren't very wear resistant and so on, if you had metal parts or tough plastics the system would just be an unnecessarily complicated one.

[Anonymous No.1333872]

>>1333851
>>1333869
Oh and also the reset shouldn't be all that difficult to figure out, infact i do believe that it could be quite easily figured out by using only one spring.

[Anonymous No.1333899]

>>1333690
Let me know how it goes, I've been wanting to upgrade my MK1 for a while now but haven't had a reason to yet