Home and Hobby Machining General

[Anonymous No.1252328]

Can we have a general about hobbyist machining?

Post pictures of your machines, talk about your machines, tips tricks projects whatever.
I know you guys are out there

[Anonymous No.1252329]

>>1252328
What is thee thing under the mill?

[Anonymous No.1252330]

>>1252328
So to samefag the thread, I dont have a mill or a lathe yet. Im slowly buying tooling and other stuff before I commit to a machine.

I was looking into buying a set of Tap and Dies.

Is there a good reason to buy an SAE + Metric set, or should I buy an SAE only set. Im in the USA so the vast majority of the fasteners I will be buying would be SAE, and so I would be tapping and using dies to cut SAE right?

Would there be a good reason for me to be punching metric holes into my projects?

[Anonymous No.1252331]

>>1252329
Dividing head?

[Anonymous No.1252332]

>>1252330
>Would there be a good reason for me to be punching metric holes into my projects?
I don't think thinks so, unless you want to make make spare parts for machines (such as cars) that use metric.

[Anonymous No.1252334]

>>1252329
horizontal bandsaw

[Anonymous No.1252336]

>>1252330
A bucket full of once-used end-mills and taps will be cheap.

See if you can get some tooling from the person selling the machine, if it isn't new.

[Anonymous No.1252548]

>>1252334
Is that a horizontal mill?

[Anonymous No.1252563]

>>1252548
it's a surface grinder you dolt. why would you want a mill with a 'table' that tiny.

[Anonymous No.1252565]

>>1252330
buy a shitty import English+Metric to cover your bases.

then you add expensive ones you use often/real common.

>Would there be a good reason for me to be punching metric holes into my projects?
Any 'metric hole' you make is also an Imperial one.

[Anonymous No.1252659]

>>1252330
>set of Tap and Dies

i'd just buy national coarse from 6-32 to 1/2 taps with their corresponding drills separately from some place like msc or ebay. stick to european or american manufactured.

dies i would just buy one off as needed to repair messed up threads. or you can get thread files

you can buy tap-die-drill (single size) combos from places like lowes and home depot and the prices are reasonable so you may be able to just gather a set that way

make sure you get metric and imperial thread pitch gauges (they're like feeler gauges) if you run into some mystery thread

[Anonymous No.1252688]

>>1252330
>Would there be a good reason for me to be punching metric holes into my projects?
metric is soo much easier to work with

[Anonymous No.1252691]

>>1252688
Do hobbyists tend to use one over the other?

I just keep seeing projects id like to do on youtube and such, all are using SAE measurements. Figured thats what I would do too

[Anonymous No.1252697]

>>1252688
>metric is soo much easier to work with
... Surely you aren't serious. Fractional inches are a lumber thing.
Also fuck off with your cuck system. Call back when there is metric 2.0 and it does what it claims to do.

[Anonymous No.1252729]

>>1252328
home machinist here. Pic related, it's mine

[Anonymous No.1252745]

>>1252688
using either system is the same, but you should stick to using only one

[Anonymous No.1252782]

>>1252691
maybe american, but even in america metric is ot hard to obtain.
>>1252697
>using fractions
i see you arent making anything with even remotely tight tolerances
>>1252745
this is not a luxury i am afforded

[Anonymous No.1252783]

>>1252563
6" by 18" is pretty small I guess, but hey the price was right.

half a tenth resolution DRO on the crossfeed and downfeed, the fine pole walker mag-chuck that comes with them, etc.

>>1252729
neat, that DRO looks absolutely ancient tho

[Anonymous No.1252817]

>>1252782
He didnt imply that he used fractions, he implied its only used for lumber and other such low tolerance things like rough cutting stock.

You use decimal, so its not at all different or harder than metric.

[Anonymous No.1252819]

ausfag here, I recently added extra posts and built these shelves just to keep up with my ever expanding tooling.

Buy quality NOS taps off ebay, more than likely you'll start picking up a heap of stuff for practically nothing at swap meets and garage sales and regret paying top dollar for shit tier tap sets.

[Anonymous No.1252871]

>>1252819
noice, do you have shelves next to each of your machines, or is the wall area there central to them if you want to share?

[Anonymous No.1252872]

>>1252729
I wonder if you can use a newer DRO with those scales if it ever fails?

Any idea if the scales connectors are standardized?

[Anonymous No.1252903]

>Post pictures of your machines, talk about your machines

this the exact same thing as the dick rate threads on /b/. and equally useless.

[Anonymous No.1252922]

>>1252697
>Call back when there is metric 2.0 and it does what it claims to do.
I know this is the internets and the thread is just to spew out stuff but could you clarify again what metric was claiming it could do? Genuinely curious.

[Anonymous No.1252953]

>>1252783
it is super ancient, late 80s stuff.
>>1252872
not standardized at all. Really low hours machine, was used by a gunsmith to drill and tap a little bit mostly. I'm just banking on it living forever under light use, I'd probably send the DRO out for rebuild rather than fit new scales.

[Anonymous No.1253128]

>>1252953
Do you have way covers at least?

This video gives some good ideas on rigging your own, worked for me.

https://youtu.be/qjh63pll0VM

Donnow what your ways look like, but mine have some wear. Definitely should have had chip guards on it.

[Anonymous No.1253135]

>>1252903
Productive post

[Anonymous No.1253222]

I bought a drill press and the spindle wobbles.
Can this be fixed? Like adjusting some screw?
Or do I need to haul this heavy thing back to the store to see if they will change it?

[Anonymous No.1253231]

>>1253222
how much does it wobble?

is it a chinese drill press? how much was it?

[Anonymous No.1253235]

>>1253222
>spindle wobbles.

Dumb question, but you mean the spindle itself not the chuck right?
You can clean the taper and reseat the chuck and itll sometimes fix some runout.

What quality drill press is it? You arent going to get a cheap drill press that is high precision.
Some runout is expected but a high amount could be a defect

[Anonymous No.1253236]

>>1253231
>how much does it wobble?
when I use a 5mm bit, which is about 7 cm long, the end wobbles about 1mm
>is it a chinese drill press?
yep
>how much was it?
the equivalent of 170 burger dollars, but im south america

[Anonymous No.1253238]

>>1253236
best bet is to reseat the drill chuck then, rotate it a quarter turn and see if the runout is improved

[Anonymous No.1253239]

>>1253235
>Dumb question, but you mean the spindle itself not the chuck right?
the spindle

[Anonymous No.1253242]

>>1253239
Is it the quill or the spindle?

They are not the same thing. The spindle sits inside the quill and spins, the quill drops down and doesn't rotate.

[Anonymous No.1253245]

>>1253242
Well, I bought the machine today, in the store I opened the box and turned it on to make sure the engine works.
The spindle (the part that spins, where the chuck sits) looked a bit wobbly.

[Anonymous No.1253249]

>>1253239
thats pretty fucked

is the spindle bent? (i guess you could try flame straightening or something)
are the bearings fucked? (cheap fix, just buy new bearings)
are the bearing mounting bores fucked? ( i guess you could shim them in)

[Anonymous No.1253251]

Removed the chuck and the spindle doesnt look that wobbly now, maybe it was the chuck

[Anonymous No.1253252]

>>1253245
Was the body of the chuck wobbling or did you have a drill bit in it that was wobbling?

If it doesn't sound noisy it probably isn't the spindle wobbling. It could be the jacobs taper in the end of the spindle is ground off-center, or the drill chuck's jacobs taper could be off-center.

you could try putting a different drill chuck on it and see if that fixes it. If the drill chuck has a female taper on the end instead of a jacobs taper male shaft you might could find an adapter that is more accurate to fix the runout.

>>1253249
wouldn't it make a shitty noise if the spindle bearings were fucked enough to see it with the eye?

[Anonymous No.1253253]

>>1253251
Chucks can introduce a lot of runout, and used or crappy drill bits arent always straight either.

I say clean it with alcohol and reseat it cleanly, then use a good drill bit and drill some holes

Decide from there if the holes are oblong or oval and that it needs to go back, or maybe buy a higher quality chuck

[Anonymous No.1253258]

>>1253253
Also I should say these drill presses always come with junky chucks as a way to cut costs, a good chuck will almost always make a cheaper drill much better

[Anonymous No.1253292]

>>1252328
Is it possible to build a lathe for turning metal, using only a drill press and hand tools?

I want to get into machining, but my budget doesn't really allow for buying a whole damn milling machine or a lathe.

[Anonymous No.1253296]

>>1253292

Yes, but you'd be in for a long, difficult ride. You'd basically have to make at least two; one (or more) bootstrap lathe that's basically garbage and requires tons of fiddling and fuckery to get a usable part out of, then use that to make the actual lathe.

Good luck getting the ways straight and square, no matter how you do it. Realistically, there's no way this is practical. It would be such an astounding investment of time to get something on par with even a cheap import lathe that you'd get to where you want to be faster and with less effort if you simply picked up random odd jobs until you had enough for a used machine.

By the way, tooling for the machines usually comes with a healthy dose of sticker shock for the uninitiated.

[Anonymous No.1253305]

>>1253296
I've got an old wood lathe kicking around, it's decently big (enough to do, say, a table leg) but obviously only rated for wood.

There's also a box of tool steel bits in my shed that might come in handy. I'm not going to be doing a lot that requires ultra high precision work, just hobby-level fucking around, and I'll no doubt learn a lot just from making the lathe in the first place.

[Anonymous No.1253313]

I made some adjustments to my drill press and now it wobbles less, but it makes a lot of noise now
well, fuck

[Anonymous No.1253320]

>>1253313
Takes finesse, youll get it right anon

[Anonymous No.1253339]

>>1253292
Yes. Look up Dave Gingery's book series. There's even a guy on youtube who made a series of videos about building a lathe that way.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPGZg45dGXA

[Anonymous No.1253340]

>>1253339
this dude is legit, ty based anon

[Anonymous No.1253342]

>>1253339
That bed doesnt look very sturdy

[Anonymous No.1253345]

>>1253292
some guys did it with varying degrees of success.
yt search:
>celso mascarenhas
one-handed spic machinist with an interesting solution to thread cutting
>homemade lathe machine
squatting slav whose every solution involves steel plate. Also, aluminum casting in Slavic crocs.

many diy lathes use rectified cylinders for ways: scavenged hydraulic cylinders, motorcycle shocks, even car trunk shocks or xerox machine guide rails for the smaller ones.

[Anonymous No.1253347]

>>1252729
Is dat a rotary phase converter?

[Anonymous No.1253349]

>>1253320
I just bought this drill and already busted a bearing lol, I comfort myself telling myself I bought it to learn but I still feel like an idiot
Buying a new bearing tomorrow.

[Anonymous No.1253391]

>>1253339
>>1253340
Just finished watching the series, it looks like that lathe is something I could put together in a few months.

Should give me something better to do after work than sit on the computer for hours at a time, at least.

Would it be worth getting some automotive bearings to use instead of the brass bushes he uses in the videos? I'm pretty sure a sizable set of wheel bearings off a 4WD will give much better results in the headstock part.

[Anonymous No.1253400]

>>1253391
wouldnt standard brass bushings have better tolerances and less lash than wheel bearings?

[Anonymous No.1253407]

>>1253400
From the video it looks like the guy struggles to get a nice clearance with the brass bushings he's using, and resorts to cutting slots in them so he can adjust the clamping pressure. With a bit of preload there's usually very little play in most wheel bearings; I'm thinking a tapered roller bearing and a needle roller bearing should be a good combination for the main shaft.

I guess I'll cross that bridge when I come to it, first I need to start sourcing stock materials, tools, and get a plan happening.

[Anonymous No.1253462]

>>1252871
this is behind the bridgeport clone, my other mill is a few meters away and my DSG lathe is next to the bridgeport. Finished painting since I took this photo and my old surface plate and stand under the long timber bartop shelf thing

[Anonymous No.1253485]

>>1252328
I would just about suck a dick if one of you anons could hollow out a 2" od stainless rod 1.5 foot long. Drill holes awound middle hole lengthways and thread the ends for water jackets. Broke af but what would i need to pay for this?

>pic related
>red is holes

[Anonymous No.1253486]

>>1252334
... gimme it.

[Anonymous No.1253488]

>>1252903
Kek, eccept there are infinitely less penises here until my Dickfarming ass descides to start shitposting.

>odly enough throuout dickmaking i learned to make a hard to source item and will make bank if i can produce a quality product...

[Anonymous No.1253682]

>>1253349
What bearing broke?

The only bearings I can think of are the bearings in the quill, but those are large and pressed in bearings. How did you break it and how are you gonna replace it?

[Anonymous No.1253687]

>>1253485
>pls bore out 18 inches of stainless
>then drill tiny holes through 18 inches of stainless
"No"

[Anonymous No.1253696]

>>1253687
What would the going labor rate be for this?

[Anonymous No.1253710]

>>1253696
The big hole in middle is fine but those smaller holes would be cunt city. I have Gundrills as small as 4mm but setting up that job offset in the 4 jaw would massively limit the speed unless you wanted to take the lathe for a walk. the low speed you'd be turning it at would making gun drilling impractical (carbide tip needs plenty of RPM) you other option is using HSS long series drills which would still make you want to neck yourself. with some very full retard Mill work like job in the picture and some jig making it could be done on a manual mill feeding both from the quill and the knee but the time needed would be fucked and not economical. that's the opinion of a manual machinist, not sure what a CNC guy would say on the subject.

[Anonymous No.1253722]

>>1253485
Could you laser that shit?

[Anonymous No.1253731]

>>1253485
You literally cannot do those small holes without a water jet.

[Anonymous No.1253733]

>>1253485
WTF are you building? A reaction vessel?

[Anonymous No.1253739]

>>1253687
Lol, fuck i figured it was gonna be bad but after looking up how to cast stainless looks like i am either ramming metric fucktons of sand, or taking out a small loan of a million dollars to buy a fucking diecast machine.

[Anonymous No.1253742]

>>1253710
Hmm. Well, maybe i could make a thinner walled cylinder, wrap a bunch of copper tubing around it, and cast aluminum around it?

I plan on stuffing a handfull of radiators in a deapfreezer and finding a lump to move antifreeze around the radiators and through them. Have a temp readout for the mold and deepfreeze. If it gets too hot i'll kick it off or hit valves and switch freezers.

Should allow for some high speed production for 1 guy.

[Anonymous No.1253743]

>>1252872
>I wonder if you can use a newer DRO with those scales if it ever fails?

most probably you can. Try to find old datasheets to find out what the output is. Some German machines (and probably others too) have weird wave forms so you need an adapter (which is expensive to buy but this is DIY so you can also make it yourself) so look out for that.

[Anonymous No.1253744]

>>1253722
Hell i dont know. Any smarter anons got an idea?

[Anonymous No.1253745]

>>1253731
Fair enough. I dont know fuckall about machine work.

Guess i will have to find a way around it or build a fucking sand muller and screen.

[Anonymous No.1253747]

>>1253292
you can build the bed with (epoxy-)concrete and rails from bolted on scraped durabar. You will need a scraper, a surface plate (or a LOT of time to make your own surface plate(s))

Making the spindle though is the hard part. Even if you can source precision round material you will need some sort of bearing seats and retainment.

[Anonymous No.1253748]

>>1253733
Eh?

Nah.

Hard to explain as i aint even sure how the shit works and its so obscure i cant even find a google pic.

>pic kind of related?

Oil wells around here have electrolysis in them. They sell a 2 foot rod with 1.5 foot or so of aluminum cast around it 1/4" thick.

It eats on the aluminum and saves from breaking a rod.

My duddy has one for me to look at but we have to go hunting for it.

[Anonymous No.1253749]

>>1253696
why stainless? casting aluminium is easy.

[Anonymous No.1253750]

>>1253744
you could EDM it anyway it's $$$. Deep small holes are not standard shit even if it's not stainless (generally not a very friendly material)

[Anonymous No.1253765]

im trying to get a job as a machine shop tech, what tools would i be expected to supply myself with?

calipers and a micrometer and some hand tools or more?

i have no experience outside of YouTube and high school machine courses

im 18 btw

[Anonymous No.1253766]

>>1253765
maybe shoes if at all.

[Anonymous No.1253767]

>>1253765
and damn i have to watch out for the next season thx for the reminder. One of my favorites!

[Anonymous No.1253768]

>>1253765
A finger to push the button, and a back to pick up the completed piece

[Anonymous No.1253769]

>>1253766
heres the job i was looking at just on craigslist, i have experience in all of it except the helicoils and they seem pretty straight forward.

Shop Tech

starting pay at $15
employment type: full-time
Set up CNC machines
Square up stock on Bridgeport / Proto-Trak
Transport parts to and from subcontractors
Deburring parts
Packing and shipping
General cleaning
Installing Heli-Coils
Receiving incoming material
Program and machine simple parts using 2 Axis Proto Trak

- Must have reliable vehicle
- Must be willing to learn new skills

[Anonymous No.1253775]

>>1253731
can a water jet cut accurately at 18" deep? surely the kerf would be insane. recently had to drill some 1.5mm holes through waterjet cut bisalloy plate as they didn't think they'd get the hole accurate enough for use in calibration. over 25mm there was about 0.4mm of kerf on the edges from memory. never run I waterjet in my life but I can't see it going well over

[Anonymous No.1253776]

>>1253769
>craigslist
Lol, good luck with that. Everybody I've known that got a job from Craigslist has gotten fucked over in the end.

[Anonymous No.1253781]

>>1253776
I only know 1 person who got a craigslist job and yep, got screwed over too.

[Anonymous No.1253782]

>>1253776
where should i look then?

[Anonymous No.1253785]

>>1253782
for these type of jobs

[Anonymous No.1253793]

>>1253782
My buddy works as a manager to a machine shop
They quite literally use a temp agency and then layoff everyone a bunch.

These type of jobs are dying due to automation and outsourcing.

[Anonymous No.1253798]

>>1253782
On actual job sites, indeed, etc.

[Anonymous No.1253799]

>>1252330
If your not sure about committing to a whole set, I would suggest just getting a few individual, cheap, Chinese taps/dies as you need them for projects. That way you can get a better feel for what you might want, and you can invest in a better set later after you fuck up the cheap bits.

I mean realistically, unless you are trying to match existing threads, you really don't need more 3 or 4 sizes

[Anonymous No.1253803]

Hello, /diy/.
/g/entleman here, I've got a question.
I've recently become interested in making and fixing old steam engine models, and thought it's a good hobby to start with.
My budget is 200 dollars for tools, plus 100 for steam engines.
Having had nearly none experience with OWNING power tools, but having used lathes and numerous mills in the past back in school, I'm a tad curious as to what tool I should buy.
My first option is a small metal lathe:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Z20002M-24W-All-Metal-Mini-Lathe-used-20-000r-min-24W-Motor-mini-lathe-for-students/32714956217.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10065_10151_10130_10068_10344_10342_10343_10340_10341_10139_10307_10060_10155_10154_10056_10055_10054_10059_10534_10533_10532_100031_10099_10338_10339_10103_10102_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10178_10110_10111_10112_10113_10114_143_10312_10314_10078_10079_10073,searchweb201603_16,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=fe4ae2e3-98b6-49c2-b754-52f0c566a107&algo_expid=47fec5ba-3057-4420-8eaa-a66bf8946955-8&algo_pvid=47fec5ba-3057-4420-8eaa-a66bf8946955

Second option is one of those chinese 6 in 1 kits.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/6-in-1-Mini-Lathe-Milling-Drilling-Wood-Turning-Jag-Saw-and-Sanding-Machine-Mini-Combined/32757165547.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10065_10151_10130_10068_10344_10342_10343_10340_10341_10139_10307_10060_10155_10154_10056_10055_10054_10059_10534_10533_10532_100031_10099_10338_10339_10103_10102_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10178_10110_10111_10112_10113_10114_143_10312_10314_10078_10079_10073,searchweb201603_16,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=d83fdff6-132d-47f9-a6c5-cb26f7cdc503&algo_expid=0fa1b40a-0874-4d52-8c3e-6a9933851ccc-28&algo_pvid=0fa1b40a-0874-4d52-8c3e-6a9933851ccc

Can you do anything interesting with aluminum and softer metals?
Thanks in advance.

[Anonymous No.1253808]

>>1253485
18" ?

It would be slow drilling with an aircraft drill bit welded to a rod flipping around in the mill.

That is dangerous as fuck to actually drill those small holes, btw.

Long thin rod + high speed = metal rod flopping around fucking shit up.

Are you sure the small holes need to be all the way through?

[Anonymous No.1253810]

>>1253710
^ there's an idea, a jig to keep the long drill bit from killing you while drilling

[Anonymous No.1253815]

>>1253803

>$200 for tools

Son...I'm so sorry.


$200 would barely get you a good _chuck_ for a small lathe. Those things you linked are basically toys. There's at lest one video out there for that "lathe" showing like 2mm (yes, mm, not 0.2mm or 0.02mm) of runout on it. It's not a usable tool. It's very much a toy.

For reference, I have a small lathe that's basically a nicer version of the Harbor Freight 7x14 lathe. It cost $700, with no additional tooling.

>>1253485

You should probably re-think your design. It would be much easier (and therefore cheaper) to simply make a jacket out of a tube and some flanges that slid over the main piece.

>>1253731

The fuck? You couldn't do it WITH a waterjet. A waterjet might actually be one of the worst possible tools to attempt it with; they can't drill for shit, because their own jet gets in the way once the hole gets too deep.

An EDM would probably do best, but, again, you really should just design the thing better to begin with.

[Anonymous No.1253817]

>>1253803
Go to youtube and look for "6 in 1 lathe". Or even look for the Emco Unimat1 lathe. It was a real brand in the 80s and these chinese 6 in 1s are just even crappier clones of it.

When I first decided I wanted to machine, I thought about buying one just for shits and giggles, but I havent found a single compelling video showing it to be useful. Every single video makes them look like shit.

That "all metal" version looks strikingly similar to the 6 in 1 just with metal cranks. The powerplant is going to be just as shit.


Follow craigslist, letgo, ebay, whatever used selling thing you want. Save up and buy something better.
Emco sold a ton of usable light duty mini lathes you might be able to find. You might find a harbor freight one for cheap. Just keep looking eventually youll snag something locally.

When money is tight blowing 200$ right now will only make it harder to buy something proper down the line.

[Anonymous No.1253823]

>>1253817
Oof, look at the tailstock moving around and the runout of the chuck
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=171vejwnBgM

[Anonymous No.1253824]

>>1253407
do angular contact and cylindrical roller bearing instead

[Anonymous No.1253827]

>>1253803
Im guessing youve seen mrpete222 AKA Tubalcain on youtube?
Dude loves steam engines and is a great machinist too

[Anonymous No.1253847]

>>1253803
Taig micro mill. Its out of your price range but its still as cheap as you are going to get

[Anonymous No.1253860]

>>1253803
Craigslist is your friend, but it's a long endeavor.
I found a czech 1984 Tos Mn80 in perfect condition for the equivalent of 400$ and anyone who knows machine tools would agree it's a great deal.
But
>1.5 years of lathe hunting
i really feel for you, bro.

[Anonymous No.1253863]

>>1253860
Im on the lookout for a lathe, I keep seeing ones I would consider but I havent saved up enough money yet. its killing me, I know the second I have a decent chunk of disposable cash in my hand there wont be shit out there

[Anonymous No.1253867]

>>1253682
>How did you break it
hammer to the chuck, remember this is made of chinesium
>how are you gonna replace it?
Already took it out (and broke it more in the process), I still have to buy a new one, I hope I can find it

[Anonymous No.1253912]

>>1253817
my advice to him is to buy used, your money goes a lot farther.

the old guys running machine shops around here don't really know how to use the internet though, so when they want to clear out some space for newer shit they don't have a lot of places to list the ad. no one uses craigslist, but there is a machine shop that also sells used machinery, where I picked up the Harig 618 ballway in this pic: >>1252334

[Anonymous No.1253993]

>>1253347
Yep, same brand I have to run my old lathe.

[Anonymous No.1253994]

>>1253993
Matter of fact, I'm going to cut the wire running to my lathe from the phase converter and install plugs on the lathe, phase converter, and my Harig today.

[Anonymous No.1254079]

>>1253994
plugs are installed, seems to work fine, both grinder and lathe.

mill has a static converter, apparently the surface grinder manual says it won't grind as nicely if you have a static converter and only run it on single phase power. I guess because the motor isn't kept running as evenly.

[Anonymous No.1254084]

>>1253749
Mass production and fussing. I can make these at work but i dont want to be trying to ram sand and cast and do 40 other things at one time if work gets busy.

And i figure speed and consistency would be easier to maintain if stainless.

Its essentially just casting a cylinder of aluminum around a cylinder of steel.

Could use sand but i am trying to crank out like 20 truckloads and flood the market. If they take off i will need to keep pace replacing or hire soneone else. Figure 1 stainless mold is cheaper than an employee sand casting

[Anonymous No.1254085]

>>1253775
18"?

Why not flip ot for 2 9's if u need?

[Anonymous No.1254087]

>>1253803
Kek. Checl out antique tractor ahows in your area. There are lots of old dudes with steam and air powered models that love to talk

[Anonymous No.1254088]

>>1253808
Nah man, fuck it. I could probably go with smaller diameter pipe and wrap copper cooling coils around it.

Maybe cast aluminum around that for even temp dispurse???

[Anonymous No.1254091]

>>1253815
I see. Well, i am always open to suggestions and appreciate the feedback.

This was my original idea but sealing it liquid aluminum tight is difficult

[Anonymous No.1254110]

>>1254084
can you just buy aluminum rods or pipe and steel rod or pipe for it?

that would most likely be way easier to manufacture

[Anonymous No.1254188]

>>1254110
The problem is the rods have large square ends for wrenches and thread together. I swear we will find one or i wil buy it soon for show and tell and see how mine hold up.

Pretty much has to be cast around the middle and if it comes loose i'm fucked.

Bro said he would test them but that involves pulling a well. Twice.

If it fails i will feel like shit and already told him i cant cover it. But, hes willing to take a gamble since i will gladdly keep him on stockpiles of rods will we die. And they are $100 each storebought.

[Anonymous No.1254223]

>>1254188
large square ends for wrenches and thread together?

that sounds like a job for welding. Have a machine shop machine the end piece and weld it on a round pipe

[Anonymous No.1254225]

>>1254188
I'm thinking a billet option would be very expensive, and a welded together assembly would be expensive, but not ridiculously.

[Anonymous No.1254226]

>>1254188
wait, the part you're trying to make is only $100 storebought, or some kind of welding rods or something?

[Anonymous No.1254229]

>>1254084
if you wanna mass produce , then you are better off doing an extrusion die, they can do the deep small holes that you seem to need. wont require as much post processing as a sand casting would. make the innerbore undersized and have it as a heat pressed on or something

[Anonymous No.1254230]

>>1254226
>welding rods? more like some kind of sacrificial anode

[Anonymous No.1254239]

>>1253485
HAHAHahahaHAHAHAHAHAHahahahahhahaha

I doubt reasonable amount of money would get anyone to attempt this. At least not anyone with enough knowledge to get it done.

Re-design your needs.

[Anonymous No.1254263]

>>1253128
No I don't, but that's a great idea. Thanks for the tip
>>1253347
Yep, american rotary brand

[Anonymous No.1254472]

Coming in with my shop, thought I'd show some of my stuff. Old pics, currently trying to sell that grey beast 1927 Seneca Falls 12" Lathe. Green monster is a 12" Central Machinery gap bed gear head. There's also an Atlas 618 pictured very slightly underneath the grey lathe, you can just see the spindle hole. I also picked up the brown key-cutter mill, which I plan on turning into a surface grinder.

[Anonymous No.1254473]

In addition, I have a central machinery gear head mill. Also pictured is a 12" rotary table that I bought, seller thought it was broken, but they were trying to turn the collar on the handle shaft. I have yet to make a new handle for it.

[Anonymous No.1254474]

>>1254473
What brand is that spindexer hiding on the shelf below the mill there?

[Anonymous No.1254478]

>>1254474
It's some chinese thing I picked off of Ebay. I have a couple nema24 steppers that I'm thinking of using to make a quick spindexer for cutting more gears.

[Anonymous No.1254625]

>>1254478
Those little Tormach CNC mills are only like $10k these days, and I bet a 4th axis would only be a couple thousand more.

Just wondering how much did you pay for your mill?

The tormach has a weak motor so it's ran at high speed and works best with 3/8" end-mills, I would bet an older bridgeport style knee-mill can hog more metal faster--is the downside.

[Anonymous No.1254648]

>>1254239
If you had read the thread i already did.

I know fuck all about machine work (as previously stated.) And if it was easy everyone would have one.

[Anonymous No.1254649]

>>1254229
Thank u

[Anonymous No.1254653]

>>1254223
Would cost well over $100 for that but thanks. Fucking finally found my 2 foot rod sub. Pic related is about how long the 1/4" layer of aluminum needs to be. Not even sure if 1/4" just needs to be smaller diameter than the box (odly enough the threaded cylinder on the end.)

I wouldnt be so autistic with this if hundreds a day didnt sell around me and i can hook some local guys up for free.

Lota of oil around here. Had the biggest boom and then bust of my lifetime.

Super depressing around here. I want to help. And not selflessy make some cash tho

[Anonymous No.1254671]

>>1254625
I paid $600 for it. All my machines were cobbled from CL over the last 2 years, most within the past year. It has a 1-1/2 hp motor on it. $800 for the green machine, $600 for the grey lathe, atlas 618 came with a craftsman 101 which I bought the both for 250 and sold the 101 for $300.

[Anonymous No.1254744]

>>1254671
pretty fantastic finds, must have a lot of machine shops in your area (or you live in a city)

I just spent my morning turning some adapters for the leveling feet on the Harig I'm setting up. Turns out they were too tall, a waste of time, and I just needed to modify the rubber and lead feet.

I'm glad the guy gave me those leveling feet, even if they were lazily mounted on 1/2 allthread that made it impossible to level--as the entire machine would sway to the side the table was cranked to with such thin rods.

Nice lead block with rubber pads on the bottom, now they screw into the 3/4" rods the machine originally had and appear to be a lot more solid.

>>1254088
as long as the copper/brass tubing doesn't melt below the aluminum temp that sounds like the cheapest idea yet

[Anonymous No.1254791]

>>1254744
Well, it will be a stainless mold.

Maybe i cold keep some liquid nitrogen on hand and tap it out? Got a biddy that deliveres if i buy a big enough tank.

[Anonymous No.1254804]

>>1254744
I live in Norfolk, these were mostly from younger people whose parents ended up dying. I myself am 24, and from the looks of these machines they are in fairly pristine condition. I'll be picking up a $300 SBL 9" with no tooling tonight hopefully.

[Anonymous No.1255234]

>>1254804
oh is that near the coast? lots of government surplus machines available around the coasts, shipyard equipment too.

[Anonymous No.1255420]

>>1253345
Haha

[Anonymous No.1255919]

>>1255234
Where do you find such surplus machines?

[Anonymous No.1255958]

>>1255919
There are several auction websites, depending on the location that you are at. yellowtagauctions is one(For NC), rasmus(varies), governmentliquidation, etc

[Anonymous No.1256062]

>>1255958
How do you move your machines?

Im afraid of actually being able to get the damn things home

[Anonymous No.1256091]

My machines

[Anonymous No.1256098]

>>1256062
I drive a volvo stationwagon. I used that to carry the Seneca Falls 12"(1200lbs with tooling), but I recently got a sunfish with a trailer, and used the trailer to haul back the green beast.

[Anonymous No.1256099]

>>1256098
That being said, if you are concerned about your vehicle, Home Depot has f250's for 75$ a day, and you can pair that with a utility trailer from uhaul or penske(make sure to price out everything in advance). I own my hauling equipment, which makes me figure out how I want to get the machine on the bed(for the seneca falls, I disassembled the entire lathe to fit into my stationwagon). Most metalworking instruments are very top heavy, which makes trailering the most ideal option.

[Anonymous No.1256201]

>>1255919
Best I could do is google it, but the machines listed are from shipyards or ships and sell way below what they would farther inland.

Good luck transporting tons of equipment inland cheaply, though.

>>1256062
Car trailer and a truck will haul some heavy stuff over short distances. I don't have experience hauling stuff for longer distances.

[Anonymous No.1256358]

This is the first/second time I've ran a surface grinder, how does my grind look?

I think it looks pretty good, personally. Dressing the wheel like 5 thou or so really helped improve the finish, I need some way to balance my wheels.

[Anonymous No.1256368]

>>1256358
You can see the skipping marks that the wheel left. What wheels are you using? Are you also using coolant?

[Anonymous No.1256370]

>>1256368
No coolant yet, I plan to use a Noga mini cool, they're around $125.

I have the wheel written down somewhere around here, I think it's just a medium grit, medium hardness gray Norton wheel.

[Anonymous No.1256373]

>>1256368
better pic

Do you think the wavyness is from an unbalanced wheel?

[Anonymous No.1256390]

>>1256373
It's either the wheels or your ways. Given that its a repeating continuous pattern, Id say the wheel. How are you dressing it? Id stick an accelerometer somewhere near the spindle and see what the vibrations are like. if its vibrating, its unbalanced. if not, id check the rigidity of both your fixturing setup, and your dressing setup.

[Anonymous No.1256400]

>>1256390
Oh it's definitely unbalanced, it's a used wheel I've had off the arbor several times now.

Been dressing it with one of those diamonds in an aluminum stick set-screwed in a steel block. The diamond stick is held at an angle to the wheel, for some reason. Been guessing where the middle of the wheel is and running it across.

[Anonymous No.1256514]

>>1255958
Thanks.

[Anonymous No.1256545]

Oh yeah, forgot to mention, if there is anyone interested in machining/robotics, I'm more than willing to collaborate with you/talk things through. Not many people to talk to about machining and stuff.

[Anonymous No.1256567]

>>1256390
Where can I get an appropriate accelerometer?

[Anonymous No.1256583]

>>1256567
Well, how savvy are you with Arduino? http://www.ebay.com/itm/MPU6050-3-Axis-Analog-Gyro-Sensors-3-Axis-Accelerometer-Module-for-Arduino-/121833787578
https://www.ebay.com/p/Adxl335-3-axis-Analog-Output-Accelerometer-Module-Angular-Transducer-for-Arduino/1038376552?iid=222603868619
Both of these are suitable, and if you look up the model(IE: MPU6050 code) you should be able to find something suitable. This will be sensitive enough to figure out what frequency the vibrations are occurring at, and you can continue troubleshooting from there.

[Anonymous No.1256776]

I run an 80" lathe at work, we also have a 4' radial arm but it doesn't see much use.

anyway, dick waving aside. what do you anons think about making a micro milling machine for jewlery work out of a dremel type drill? I can get plenty of structural material from work either welded or bent and bolted so getting it sturdy enough shouldn't be an issue. my only concern is the largest collet it can take is like 3.2mm, would I be able to successfully run larger shank diameter tools if I made an adaptor or am I just asking for trouble?

[Anonymous No.1256808]

>>1254671
>I paid $600 for it.

Damn i paid over 3k€ for my rf45 clone (it has DRO, dovetail column and iso40 though)

Would buy a lathe like that in a heartbeat for 800$ but sadly used machinery is kind of rare in my area and smaller stuff is way to expensive compared to new.

[Anonymous No.1256837]

>>1256583
The wheel is so off-balance I can see it wobbling with the naked eye when it's spinning down, I took another grind after dressing the front of the wheel, I think this is a harder material but now the wavy pattern looks way different.

>>1256808
my Harig 618 pictured up above was $3,000, my old Comet knee mill was $1,500 and my big Pratt and Whitney lathe was $1,500.

My knee mill has DRO, grinder has DRO. R8 taper on the mill, MT3 and MT4 on the lathe.

>>1256776
How accurate do you think the spindle is on a dremel? How well do the bearings take radial load? It might just be a waste of time.

[Anonymous No.1256865]

>>1256837
>>1256776

I mean, this one is a better brand one, a proxxon, and it does come with and endmill of sorts. bare in mind I'd only be cutting brass mostly.

[Anonymous No.1256871]

>>1256865
If you can use the machines at work you might be able to machine or grind a better spindle than what the dremel gives you.

Use some tapered roller bearings (small ones should be cheap) and maybe a square tubing housing?

The wood lathe this guy found is pretty interesting in that regard. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ln_4TqJApfk

Drill, bore, ream hole for spindle assembly, drill circular bolt hole pattern for clamp rings on each side, spindle housing mostly complete. Square or rectangular tubing would be my go-to for a low rigidity requirement lathe--the wood lathe spins heavy wood and works fine.

[Anonymous No.1256888]

>>1256837
Waaiiit a moment, those look like some REALLY deep cuts, even with a load of off-balanceness, assuming the ways are flat, only the highest point on the wheel should be cutting. Try reducing depth of cut a bit, and making multiple passes at the same height on a given location.

As for the dremel idea, it's really bad. An angle grinder will probably give better results.

[Anonymous No.1256894]

>>1256888
I was grinding a 12 inch piece of something fairly hard, there is a good chance I went too fast.

[Anonymous No.1256897]

>>1256894
If you are looking to flatten a surface with that depth of cut, might want to move over to the mill :)
The deeper your cut, the more apparent your runout will be.

[Anonymous No.1256924]

does anybody know of a cad program thats easy to make normal 2d drawing of schematics? I just need to make a quick proof of concept with measurements to show to an engineer.

[Anonymous No.1256928]

Anyone in Sweden or Norway who'd be willing to do a little commission work for me? I need 120 steel squares with some specific cuts, each one around 4x0.8x0.3cm big.

[Anonymous No.1256935]

>>1256924
I started with Autocad, which is great for 2D. 3D I use inventor, and I'm too stupid/stubborn to teach myself fusion360.

[Anonymous No.1256940]

>>1256924
>normal 2d drawing of schematics
i use eaglecad for all sorts of sketching to scale

[Anonymous No.1256956]

>>1256928
How square do they have to be? I'm not in Sweden, though... Just wondering.

0.0001" over 4cm? Shop will have to grind that kind of precision and have the tools to measure it. It won't be cheap.

But if you're looking for a carpenter's square it will cost less. 0.001" over 4cm is probably doable on a good mill.

>>1256897
Here I let it spark out completely, pic related is what it looks like (I guess I just realized I'm supposed to run it over the work until the sparks stop).

I don't have any real training on using a surface grinder beyond don't start grinding with the magnet off, block your parts in, etc.

[Anonymous No.1256959]

>>1256956
0.001 inches over specs should be acceptable. I need to be able to line them up with each other and strike a watch strap link pin through them, with the end result being straight enough that one end of a 40 link chain can be joined with the other end.

[Anonymous No.1256962]

>>1256956
How clean is your magnet chuck, how flat is it, and how flat is the piece you are grinding? Also how thick is it? It almost looks like your part has undulations in it, do you have a .0001-.00001 indicator and a surface plate?

[Anonymous No.1256963]

>>1256962
No, I'm going to order a surface plate tomorrow, and my tenth indicator should arrive tomorrow as well.

I took my mag-chuck off the platen just to look under it, it had great contact before I took it off.

Waiting on that indicator to run it across the top of the chuck.

[Anonymous No.1256966]

>>1256962
bar is 3/4" thick, my mag chuck was pretty clean (WD40 is good for this, right?)

I plan to order a surface plate + stand from Standridge tomorrow if I can figure out how, I think I have to call them to order.

The piece was reasonably flat before I started, now the bottom surface is ground a bit more roughly than the surface in that picture.

[Anonymous No.1256970]

>>1256966
Well, WD-40 isn't really going to clean it, I'm mainly wondering if you have metal shavings between your part and the chuck after flipping/before placing it down. You do have the part deburred right? Grinding leaves burrs on the edges of the part, which can prevent it from sitting flat on the chuck, and lead to it vibrating as you take a cut.

[Anonymous No.1256975]

>>1256970
No I didn't deburr it, I planned to but I was too excited.

[Anonymous No.1256995]

>>1256970
Here I thought I had finally found a use for the copious collection of WD40 I have accumulated.

[Anonymous No.1257002]

>>1256995
I would keep WD-40 away from machine tooling as much as possible, and get some real lubricant. Use it while cutting aluminum, and make sure to re-oil your chuck/ways and all sliding surfaces.

[Anonymous No.1257003]

>just passed all of my shop quizzes for my uni machine shop
>going to go get the in person training tomorrow to get certified to use the shop whenever

how do I not look like a moron? any protips?

[Anonymous No.1257004]

>>1256995
I'm still waiting for LPS-1 cologne to come out. Would be drowning in pussy

[Anonymous No.1257013]

>>1257002
It's a mag chuck though, it doesn't really need lubricant afaik.

[Anonymous No.1257014]

>>1257013
I was more talking generally, IDK why you are cleaning it with WD40 in the first place. Pressurized air and clean hands are the way to clean imo.

[Anonymous No.1257044]

>>1257014
I took the magchuck off again and cleaned and stoned both surfaces again, then stoned the edges off the part and cleaned it again.

This grind does look a little better, it looks like some stuff ground by the tool room where my dad works. It was a 4 or 5 tenth cut but it's improving and I'm getting happier with it.

I think there might have been some grit under the magchuck.

too dark for pictures, will update if I remember tomorrow.

[Anonymous No.1257048]

>>1257014
Better than putting water or other weird chemicals on it, thinner than most oils and smells alright.

Some people on youtube use water soluble coolant to clean the chuck, I have some but I think it's that synthetic stuff that gets everything sticky when it dries, don't want to use that.

[Anonymous No.1257052]

>>1257044
I figured after that last grind there was something between your bed and the cut surface, hence the waves. Can you post some more pictures? The removal and replacement of the mag-chuck isn't something that is typically done frequently.

[Anonymous No.1257058]

>>1257052
I don't have good lighting set up, the part is here with me but it's too dark to take a picture properly. Camera won't focus properly.

[Anonymous No.1257292]

>>1257058
ok, there are some left/right lines

[Anonymous No.1257294]

>>1257292

[Anonymous No.1257322]

>>1256358
>I need some way to balance my wheels.

I have journeyman papers as a precision surface grinder and did it for 10 years and have never heard of balancing a grinding wheel. What type are you using?

[Anonymous No.1257336]

>>1257322
wheel balancing is so the hole in the wheel sits on the arbor not off-center.

I wonder if my arbor is out. Or there could be another reason for the lines in the finish there. What are your thoughts?

[Anonymous No.1257340]

>>1257322
I did a trade as a metal machinist first class and we were taught to use balancing knives to balance wheels. it's been quite a while since I did my tafe but from memory it greatly improved surface finish

[Anonymous No.1257352]

>>1254472
This is going to be a strange request ut can you list off the books on the shelf and their ISBNs?

[Anonymous No.1257403]

pic related is the grind from a tormach video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPZB9tXGg8k

[Anonymous No.1257422]

>>1257403
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MofRhM_W-Vk

Looks like you can drill a dimple in the wheel to balance it, I was just going to leave it halfway loose on the arbor and tap it up/down then tighten the arbor on it.

[Anonymous No.1257439]

>>1257403
>>1257422
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kstB1-WUOd8

[Anonymous No.1257507]

>>1257439
Here's a rough grind I made today.

Granite plate and angle block are ordered, 0.0001" indicator not here yet, sadly.

[Anonymous No.1257519]

>>1256871
I was thinking this, could you just do a shitty sketch of what you mean? I'm going to knock up some cad ideas in the mean time

[Anonymous No.1257525]

>>1257014
Iirc. Air is theoretically less than recommended on grinders, since you evaporate the coolant and spray the now liberated dust into the air. Depending on what you grind, there's the possibility of health issues too. Carbide dust is bad for you if you grind any tools in there, most notably. I'd get some of those crappy paint brushes, a rubber squeegee thingy (they sell mini ones), or just use a rag. Then wipe it all with a clean hand like you said.

[Anonymous No.1257529]

>>1257525
I use chip brushes (crappy paint brushes), paper towels, and microfiber rags + WD40 to wet the surface making it easier to pick up the dust.

A very fine stone works better than the cheap 600 grit diamond card I bought, thing is almost worthless. It was marketed for sharpening knives, waste of $15.

Also clean my stones with WD40.

[Anonymous No.1257531]

>>1257519
Machine it for the bearings, square/rectangular tubing.

[Anonymous No.1257533]

>>1257531
thanks hun x

[Anonymous No.1257535]

Does anyone know how to mount boring heads to plain morse taper heads? ie. one without a drawbar? we need to bore some 3" SCH80 tube to plain 3" (73.66mm to 76.2mm)
I would bore it on our lathe but it's almost impossible to find centre supports for it (harrison M400) and we need to work with tubes upto 500mm in lengh

[Anonymous No.1257555]

>>1257535
By center supports do you mean a steady rest?

You could adapt a steady rest from another lathe, and I think it's a bad idea to try boring (radial load) with a morse taper tool.

[Anonymous No.1257585]

>>1257352
I don't think I can do that, any reason why you ask?
>>1257292
>>1257294
It's looking better to me!
>>1257322
How have you never heard of balancing a grinding wheel, Typically there is a washer with holes pre-drilled on it that can be moved around to subtract mass from a portion of the wheel.
>>1257336
I'd say it's highly unlikely your arbor is out. But you can remove your wheel and place an indicator on the arbor directly.

>>1257422
You should use shims of any sort in between the arbor and the wheel to balance it. Mind you will need to redress the wheel after doing so.

[Anonymous No.1257591]

Okay here's a fun idea, back onto SCH80s anon,
My DOC is only about 1.27mm, what about plunging a face mill down the centre of the tube? or what about using an adjustable shell reamer?

[Anonymous No.1257626]

>>1257591
an end-mill won't break the chips, they'll be long and stringy, but to my knowledge it should work.

I don't have any adjustable shell reamers, wish I did. Do you really need the hole reamed?

What about a spade drill? The inserts are $35 to $50 probably.

https://youtu.be/9BombEutCSk

[Anonymous No.1257645]

>>1257591
I don't think plunging a facemill down will be a good idea, you will get rubbing on the sides.

[Anonymous No.1257751]

>>1257591
if you have a big enough pilot hole a two-flute ball nosed end-mill is practically a spade drill

[Anonymous No.1257759]

>>1257751
those appear to be hard to find on MSC, but spade drill inserts at 3" diameter is easy to find.

https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Indexable-Cutting-Tools/Spade-Drill-Inserts?searchterm=spade+drill&navid=4287923502#navid=4287923502+4287415851&searchterm=spade+drill

[Anonymous No.1257762]

>>1257759
>>1257626
>>1257591
fyi spade drilling in a mill does work, I don't like holding them in a drill chuck though, collet is the way to go.

[Anonymous No.1258076]

>>1257751
>>1257626
the stock ID is 73.66mm though, and I need to go out to 76.2mm, I doin't think I'd find a spade mill though. going to look for a shell mill that we can adapt to fit onto a morse taper for drilling. pic related is my mechanism for locking the taper in so that it doesn't move

[Anonymous No.1258084]

>>1258076
76.2mm is exactly 3 inches

You're just opening up the ID of a pipe, right? A spade drill cutting on the edges would work fine.

[Anonymous No.1258086]

>>1257645
I've found a face mill with a 45deg approach angle and the inserts sit beyond the body of the mill so that should mitigate that issue

[Anonymous No.1258087]

>>1258084
the thing is though that I can't find a single spade drill that is 3"

[Anonymous No.1258089]

>>1258087
But I linked you to the insert type, there's loads of spade drill inserts that are 3"

usually spade drilling gets you pretty close to the final diameter, btw. What kind of tolerance do you have?

this is the style I use

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/08072068

How long do you have to complete this project and how much can you spend on tooling?

[Anonymous No.1258091]

>>1258089
tolerances: not much of an issue we finish the part that is inserted into the tube on the lathe anyway
time: we're looking at switching to this method for the foreseeable future, replacing our main product
Cost: a fair chunk, it'll see a lot of work

[Anonymous No.1258098]

>>1258089
okay, I was being dumb, I found one exactly the right size and that fits the 5MT of our radial arm.

[Anonymous No.1258168]

>>1258098
If you don't want to pay $200 for the insert holder you could make your own like I did.

There are different hole patterns for the various size ranges though.

see pic here: >>1257626

[Anonymous No.1258360]

Alright, for anyone wondering...

Grinding a mag chuck is relatively difficult, a very slight warmness applied to the chuck will mean your grind is way off.

Best results I've had so far are very light cuts, and large step-overs, like a max of 3 tenths.

This works because it keeps the amount of time the wheel is touching the mag-chuck to a bare minimum.

I first tried a medium depth pass with very small step-overs and the mag-chuck heated up in the contact points, expanded and when it cooled the area I just ground was now the low-point.

Went back to touch it up again an hour ago, took 2 tenths and large step-overs, very fast grind. Over 18 inches it's only off 1 tenth (0.0001"), great results imo.

[Anonymous No.1258362]

Out of curiosity are there any Australians here from the gold coast, I run a free machining/machine rebuilding club out of my machine shop if anyone's interested

[Anonymous No.1258366]

>>1258362
you got a bit of a way to go before you hit 30 dots/square inch or whatever the standard is now

[Anonymous No.1258384]

>>1258366
its the bottom of a compound on a 1709 DSG lathe and does not even need 20ppi, was a practice piece for a few people new to scraping. only needed to bring it down evenly as a reference when scraping the opposite side. originally it was all galled up except for the center ring.

[Anonymous No.1258496]

>>1258360
I lied, checked it again and it's still way the fuck off.

Only way to get it flat is to dust a tenth off at a time, I think. Allowing it to cool off between passes.

[Anonymous No.1258604]

looking to get a cnc milling machine next year with a budget of 15k for the machine itself.

I looked at the tormach 1100 and a used bridgeport torq cut 22 VMC from 1995.

I'm wary of buying used because of all of the problems I've heard about used machines might have.

any advice?

[Anonymous No.1258741]

>>1258168
I don't mind the price, it's just trying to stop the apes from destroying a £80 insert a day

[Anonymous No.1258745]

>>1258741
But then again it is a power feed radial arm, so if I set it up right for them it should be fine

[Anonymous No.1258962]

>>1258745
maybe you could have the tool room make a special insert borer for you?

or better yet, use an insert drill?

smaller inserts that will wear out, just don't worry about the inside ones if you don't use them

https://www.iscar.com/eCatalog/Products.aspx?mapp=DR&app=77

[Anonymous No.1258967]

>>1256963
>Waiting on that indicator to run it across the top of the chuck.
we dont even bother, we just regrind the whole surface at work

[Anonymous No.1258968]

>>1258967
I've been mapping out the low spots, it's interesting at least.

I'm within a few tenths at present over most of the chuck, with one last spot at 4 or 5 tenths

Going slow and not letting the chuck raise more than a couple degrees works well.

Got one of those hand-held laser thermometers.

[Anonymous No.1258971]

>>1253769
>>1253769
>must be willing to learn new skills
any experience you could put under your belt would be beneficial

[Anonymous No.1259051]

>>1252330
don't buy into the "I need a tool on hand for everything" meme. a real pro will tell you: buy it as you need it, the best you can afford.

when I don't have a tap, I bike 2 miles to Grainger or Fastenal and buy one of the best quality they have.

If I need a new lathe tool I grind it myself out of HSS, or check with my local tooling dealers to see if I can get it the same day. Same goes for milling cutters.

The only things I ever bought a complete set of: jobber drills, r8 collets, combination wrenches.

[Anonymous No.1259054]

>>1259051
>buy it as you need it, the best you can afford.
what if u only have 4 dollars in ur account

[Anonymous No.1259056]

>>1259054
Buy it from a pawn shop

[Anonymous No.1259057]

>>1253776
I got a good Craigslist job fixing bikes. Just make sure you get a written employment contract. If they try to fuck you over, peace out. Also the machinist group on Facebook is a good place to get hired

[Anonymous No.1259058]

>>1254079
>long sleeves
>tie
>while operating a machine

REEEEE UNSAFE PEOPLE GET OUT

[Anonymous No.1259059]

>>1256924
librecad is life

[Anonymous No.1259060]

>>1257535
if you have a threaded back on your boring head, you can get pic related to run it in a morse taper

[Anonymous No.1259061]

>>1257591
power hone is the way to go for your application. has been discussed several times on practical machinist

[Anonymous No.1259062]

>>1259054
suck some dick until you have $10 to buy a tap

[Anonymous No.1259110]

>>1259058
That's obviously as non functioning scale model.

[Anonymous No.1259436]

>>1253292
Concrete lathe
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxqxlexybqE

[Anonymous No.1259457]

I have Ye Olde 7x12 Sieg C2 or 100% compatible, and I'm trying to get it ship shape.

But the goddamn gibs on the cross and compound slide are fucked. Pic related (but not mine). Fuckers won't lay flat. I lapped them flat, and cut flats on them where the set screws impinge on them, but it doesn't seem to help.

any advise would be welcome. I have a mill, which is in a less sorry state, and I've cut larger gibs before on it, though the C2 lathe gibs are only roughly a centimeter thick or tall, so holding them is a pain. If I make more, I might just chuck an appropriate thickness plate in an angle vise and chop of a section with the slotting saw.

[Anonymous No.1259468]

>>1253765
https://youtu.be/7xX69e0sawE

[Anonymous No.1259512]

>>1259457
I shaper/planer is pretty much the only reliable way to make a gib.

[Anonymous No.1259853]

>>1259457
order new ones from LittleMachineShop.com

[Anonymous No.1259862]

>>1259436
fuuuuuu
he didnt even use a vibrator on his mold, that thing looks like shit

[Anonymous No.1260089]

>>1253748
Sounds like a sacrificial anode.

[Anonymous No.1260129]

>>1259457
how sure are you that the angles you cut into it are accurate?

[Anonymous No.1260133]

>>1259457
mag chuck might come in handy

can use them on a mill too

[Anonymous No.1260138]

>>1259457
Grind a point onto the end of the tightening screws. It looks like the screw makes contact mostly at the top of the gib, which is where it's getting pinched. You need to make the point of contact lower.

[Anonymous No.1260282]

What tools would be actually useful when I want to get into hobby machining?
I have a caliper, micrometers, files, and center punches

[Anonymous No.1260294]

>>1260282
Lathe
Mill

[Anonymous No.1260300]

>>1260294
I'm getting a cnc mill and expanding with a used cnc lathe

[Anonymous No.1260361]

>>1260282
lathe, mill, drill press, bandsaw (horizontal and vertical), belt sander, bench grinder, vises

don't be afraid to grind your own high speed steel toolbits, good way to get geometries that aren't easy to find in carbide insert form or are expensive

some indicators too

[Anonymous No.1261338]

>>1260129

About as sure as I am about the angles the Chinese cut into the other end of it.

[Anonymous No.1261939]

If anyone wants some parallels reground, I will do it pretty cheap.

[Anonymous No.1262452]

Can anybody help me ID this lathe? Got it for $80. Chuck is marked made in england and 101.21550. I think the chuck is from an atlas, but I can't find any makers mark on the lathe besides a small "TB" logo on one of the rear pulleys.

[Anonymous No.1262472]

how many self proclaimed machinist esperts wannabes who only watch AvE without doing any milling themselves do we have ITT ?

[Anonymous No.1262477]

>>1262472
Why would anyone watch AVE for machining?
He is a piss poor machinist

Also why are you knocking people trying to get into the hobby?

[Anonymous No.1262499]

>>1262472
I watch AvE because he's entertaining, if I wanted to learn how to machine I would take a machinist course.

[Anonymous No.1262512]

>>1262477
AvE is what got me interested in the whole thing, and given all his videos are in his home workshop on old, worn out equipment, I doubt he puts much effort into working at a professional standard.

[Anonymous No.1262515]

>>1262499
if i wanted to machine a potato i'd watch AvE

[Anonymous No.1262519]

>>1262472
I find him highly annoying. But he has a lot of videos on a lot of shit, so it's almost inevitable to have to resort to him. And his subject choices and experiments and shit are interesting. I'm just sick of how he talks.

I work as a machinist. I only have a lathe and drill press at home though.

[Anonymous No.1262751]

HNNNNG my 2000mm x 1000mm surface plate arrived today

[Anonymous No.1263084]

>>1261939
how cheap are we talking?

[Anonymous No.1263123]

how much wobble is acceptable when turning down a 11" piece of 1-1/2 6061 to 1-1/8

I dunno how autistic I should be with unwobbling the wobble

[Anonymous No.1263127]

>>1262751
That's a pretty big rock.

[Anonymous No.1263129]

>>1263123
Well, you have quite a bit of excess diameter to cleanup, so you don't really need to worry too much about runout. How much are you seeing? The other main downside to runout is being harder on a tool due to interrupted cuts, but that shouldn't matter too much on aluminum.

[Anonymous No.1263164]

>>1263127
For you

[Anonymous No.1263183]

>>1263129
end-end I'm seeing 6thou of OD difference. Was using a pretty crappy tool though...

[Anonymous No.1263203]

>>1263084
like paying an apprentice in potato chips cheap

how many parallels are you thinking?

[Anonymous No.1263204]

>>1263183
how long is the part you're working on?

>>1262751
my 2' x 3' comes tomorrow, where did you buy yours from, and what's it for?

[Anonymous No.1263205]

>>1262452
probably a schaublin knock-off

[Anonymous No.1263207]

>>1263204
11". Turned the whole thing down

[Anonymous No.1263208]

>>1263123
define "wobble"..

you make a pass on an 11" piece of aluminum and end up with 6 whole thousandths of difference at each end? That's a heck of a taper.

Are you supporting the end with a live center? Is your tailstock off-set making it turn a taper?

>>1263207
Tailstock might be off-set for turning a taper and bending the part toward or away from the cutter at the tailstock end. That's too much taper.

[Anonymous No.1263258]

>>1263208
I was using a live center, yes. I mean, this same lathe is used by a billion other morons every day (college shop) so something somewhere is fugly. I'll check the tailstock

[Anonymous No.1263278]

>>1263204
a machineshop/machine tool importer called Redmond gary and its to scrape in all my mills and lathe

[Anonymous No.1263285]

>>1263258
for comparison my 80 year old lathe cut a half thou taper over 6 or 8 inches or so here: >>1253993

>>1263278
I bought my 2 foot by 3 foot from standridge, grade A and definitely pricey. So you do scraping in Australia? It's one of those things I think I would like to do, but classes on doing it are hard to find local to me.

[Anonymous No.1263289]

>>1263285
I traveled to Denmark to do Richards class which basically turned me from average machinist into a autistic machinist.
There is one machine rebuilder (machtool) who does classes in Melbourne but I've never been. If he does hold another class next year I'll definitely be going and staying with my fashy brothers for the week. Still a novice at scraping but I enjoy it and I already have all the kit including a Biax.

by the way one of the members of the machine rebuilding club did the tour at standridge and was really impressed.

[Anonymous No.1263291]

>>1263289
Sadly I probably can't see myself traveling to attend one, will have to get my start scraping around the shop.

Standridge is definitely a quality American company, I could have bought an import granite block but decided I really trust the standridge more.

I also bought a pink granite angle block to help me test squareness.

[Anonymous No.1264386]

Hey guys, so today after warming up/some use, my mill/drill now has a delay in its startup, where it used to reach the top speed instantly, now it takes a sec or two and draws a decent load. It's a gear-headed mill, any thoughts on what I should check?

[Anonymous No.1264420]

>>1264386
I don't know much about it, but it sounds like you might need to have the motor rebuilt (or replaced).

[Anonymous No.1264425]

>>1252688
>metric is soo much easier to work with
Yup, i find that drill bits last 2.5 times longer when drilling metric holes as opposed to imperial

[Anonymous No.1264430]

>>1264425
drill bits last a long time if you don't break them, keep sharpening the point and they're good

[Anonymous No.1264440]

I think this fits here I hope.

I have a vinyl cutter, 3d printer, building a mill, and soon a hobby laser (40W) and lathe.

I was thinking of starting a couple small businesses, sign making, craft goods, and leaather/renaissance fair type goods. Possibly under more than one business name haven't worked that out yet, but just making little stuff and signage. Slowly expanding into heavier grade machines of course, but is this a passable business idea?

I can make designs and have some business and machine experience.

[Anonymous No.1264442]

>>1264386

Single-phase motor? Dead start capacitor or centrifugal switch.

Three-phase? Shit's fucked, have it rebuilt or get a new one.

[Anonymous No.1264455]

>>1263258
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THkb-x35fwc

very informative vidya on lathe leveling and causes of taper

[Anonymous No.1265621]

>>1252328

[Anonymous No.1265623]

>>1264440
Is there a market for sign making, craft goods, and leather/renaissance fair type goods in your area?

[Anonymous No.1265666]

>>1265621

[Anonymous No.1265703]

>>1265623
I believe so. We have a number of local fairs and groups. Its an old timey area. And it has a lot of small businesses. I'm a consumer of such things myself, but I'm not sure if I'm outside the norm.

If it all fails hey I still have some neat things for myself to play with at least. But it would be nice to do something I like for a living and I'm not looking to ever make rock star money either.

I've joined a few business groups and forums on it and some people seem to make a living that way so I thought why not me. I'm decent with money and business and I have CNC knowledge so it feels like I have a good start. Its just I keep wondering if its wishful thinking or if its that type of attitude that keeps more people from success because they think it will fail before they start. I also worry that being a small business working part time to start it out may not be able to compete in a niche market, but on the other hand I do know a sign maker a few towns over that just had one decent machine he started with in his garage and is pretty big time in his area now.

[Anonymous No.1265707]

>>1265666
This is making me hard, please stop

[Anonymous No.1265712]

>>1265707
>>1265707

for reference the fixturing block was only parallel to within 0.003" before grinding, after my grind, parallel to within 0.0002"

now I get to make it square

[Anonymous No.1265738]

>>1265712
It's a thing of beauty, good work. We occasionally get some grind work through our shop. It's tedious, but it's satisfying work

[Anonymous No.1265741]

>>1265738
thanks, the surface plate really makes it easier to see what results you're getting and then improve your grind if necessary.

[Anonymous No.1266689]

>>1258968
what kind of wheel and dressing diamond are you using?
also when sparking out you still see a pattern?

[Anonymous No.1266719]

>>1265707
>This is making me hard, please stop

you know you are a total dork when something like this arouses you sexually.

you guys. imagine being in public.

[Anonymous No.1267556]

>>1266689
I think the arm holding my indicator was being pulled down by the magnet and giving a false reading in some places. I don't think it's really out as far as I thought it was.

The magnetic force on a noga arm with a piece of steel in it somewhere like 4" or 6" away from the chuck would surely be a tenth or two.

[Anonymous No.1268793]

>>1266689
one of these https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/05934534

one of these https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/01056373

one of these, except home-made
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/00127290

various styles of these https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/03502044

[Anonymous No.1268852]

>>1252328
Are there any videos /diy/ would recommend that would show a total beginner how to set up and use a lathe?

I'm planning on building my own, and I just need a rough idea of what kind of controls and adjustments are necessary for a fully functional lathe.

[Anonymous No.1268854]

>>1268852
>I'm planning on building my own,

People have certainly done that, but it's funny how many websites there are where some guy is really enthusiastic about his progress at first and then his updates get less frequent and then stop way before he has anything functional. It's very hard to make a good lathe unless you have a nice machine shop in which case you already own a lathe.

[Anonymous No.1268862]

>>1268852
>Are there any videos /diy/ would recommend that would show a total beginner how to set up and use a lathe?
>I'm planning on building my own, and I just need a rough idea of what kind of controls and adjustments are necessary for a fully functional lathe.

>I DONT KNOW WHAT A LATHE IS AND DONT KNOW WHAT IT IS FOR BUT I NEED ONE AND WANT TO MAKE ONE

[Anonymous No.1269337]

>>1268862
I haven't used one since shop class in high school, so it's just the little things that I can't remember like whether the jaws on the chuck are self centering, what kind of speed ranges you want available, some shit like that.

>>1268854
Doesn't have to be a great one, just has to be good enough to make the next one.

I've got an aluminium foundry in the works at the moment, so I'll be able to cast a lot of the parts for it.

[Anonymous No.1269350]

>>1268862
There is a difference between not knowing what a lathe is, and not knowing the intricacies of building & operating one. For example, I could use a lathe to make a simple item, but could not tell you how to centre a chuck with a dial gauge.

[Anonymous No.1269363]

>>1269337
For the love of God just buy a used American-made lathe.

Actually, start watching youtube videos on lathe work and you will learn a fuckton.

https://www.youtube.com/user/Abom79/videos

[Anonymous No.1269366]

>>1269337
>just has to be good enough to make the next one.

neither a lathe nor a foundry will make the hard parts: the bed and the ways.

but carry on, and good luck anon. make a thread and show your progress to inspire others.

[Anonymous No.1269555]

>>1268793
Seems like you got the wrong wheels for your application way too hard and wrong type of abrasive material.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/05934617
This would be your go to wheel for grinding most steels.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/82028697
That wheel is more suitable for griding your magchuck as it has additional pore formations to keep the heat down.
Also the rubyAO is also usable for grinding hardened toolsteels.

But i'm curious, are you still getting those chatter marks?
they might resolve with a softer grit, but your spindle bearings might be bad aswell.
maybe shoot a webm of your spindle running.

[Anonymous No.1269561]

>>1269555
http://www.nortonabrasives.com/en-us/48a-ao-type-01-toolroom-wheel-4
http://www.nortonabrasives.com/en-us/38a-ao-type-01-toolroom-wheel-4
they actually have the info on the norton site, silly me

[Anonymous No.1269696]

>>1269363
>just watch videos
That's all I wanted to do in the first place

[Anonymous No.1270003]

>>1269555
>But i'm curious, are you still getting those chatter marks?

No, not really. If the wheel is loaded up then yes it has waves in it, but if I dress the wheel regularly (seems like too often) it looks just like the grinds on Chinese 1-2-3 blocks or the grinding from a local business.

Thanks for the advice on wheels. Any idea what wheel for cast iron?

What kind of stones should I be using? I have one of link related that works wonders, doesn't scratch the surface but removes tiny burrs.
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/05108402

I think I'm supposed to have two and lap them together.

[Anonymous No.1270120]

>>1270003
Softer wheel bindings should fix the loading issue aswell. Instead of dressing when the wheel is loaded, you now have to dress it because its out of shape.

For cast irons your 32A or 38A wheels should be fine. But you need a softer binding.
I believe the norton scale goes F-G-H-I-J-K-L.
For homegamers stick to the G or H wheels, they cut way cooler as the wheel is more self sharpening.
Youtube it if you dont know what self sharpening is.

>What kind of stones should I be using? I have one of link related that works wonders, doesn't scratch the surface but removes tiny burrs.
What?

[Anonymous No.1270126]

>>1270120
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/05108402

^ that one
If you were asking what I use stones for, for stoning. I run it across the mag-chuck once in a while to knock down any high-spots.

What exactly do you mean by wheel bindings? I've never heard of this.

[Anonymous No.1270172]

>>1270126
>What exactly do you mean by wheel bindings? I've never heard of this.

its how the wheel reacts to metal.
as you grind the little rocks get dull, so you have to fracture or break them out of the wheel to have new sharp rocks.
the stronger the binding material is that holds the rocks in place, the harder the wheel is.
there are some techniques to "reduce" the hardness; higher DOC, feedrate or wheelRPM. all of those will have the rocks break out more easily.

pucker factor included although that all depends on experience, the easy way to get a good grind without experience is getting a white soft wheel.

see the red lines in the image, those are the lines the grain should fracture at.

[Anonymous No.1270292]

>>1269366
>neither a lathe nor a foundry will make the hard parts: the bed and the ways.

A file and a scraper will (and a fuck ton of spare time. Like years of spare time)

[Anonymous No.1270329]

>>1270172
ok, thanks

[Anonymous No.1270330]

>>1270003
>cast iron
GRIND WET

[Anonymous No.1270335]

>>1270330
hmm I might give that a try.

[Anonymous No.1270337]

>>1269366
>neither a lathe nor a foundry will make the hard parts: the bed and the ways.
Big flat bar of cold-rolled steel is good enough for that.

[Anonymous No.1270391]

Was thinking of getting a turning center with live tooling. Would I be able to run 45 collective hp of three phase motors at my house or would I have to put this thing in a shop with 3 phase?

[Anonymous No.1270508]

>>1269366
>neither a lathe nor a foundry will make the hard parts: the bed and the ways.

a lathe is basically a horizontal mill, if you put the end mill in the chuck and work piece on the carriage, it is not a problem

[Anonymous No.1271248]

>>1270391
3-phase wiring or a gigantic rotary phase converter, which won't be cheap

call your power company and ask them for a quote on running 3-phase power to your place

[Anonymous No.1271438]

>>1270391
45hp is the rated max draw, which is 33.6kw, if this is at 240v, that is 140A on a single phase circuit.