DIY Monitor lift

[Anonymous No.1215798]

This looked good, so I made it:

https://youtu.be/kaJVWoKj2a4

Apart from a few small problems it works ok. But it won't lift any weight. I wonder if it's the adapter I'm using.

It's a 12v motor (He uses a 15v adapter)

I don't know enough about electronics to know what I'm possibly doing wrong.

I tried a few adapters, laptops, printers etc.

Best result from; 12v 1A

Second best; 14v 800mA

Tried 19v 3.42A but it would barely turn it in a jerky fashion.

Any help greatly appreciated!

[Anonymous No.1215799]

These are the 3 adapters I mentioned

[Anonymous No.1215809]

>>1215798
It seems like an issue with your motors. Post specs.

[Anonymous No.1215815]

It's the motor he links to in the description, I assume it's the one he uses

775 DC Motor Oblate D Style Axle 12V Mini Generator DIY High Torque &Bearing

No-load Current:0.27A

Locked-rotor Current:3.25A

No-load Speed:4500RPM

Ebay link;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252034388006?rmvSB=true

[Anonymous No.1215820]

>>1215815
Seems like the amp draw is too high. Make sure the mounts are even to reduce amps, make sure belt is not too tight.

If nothing else, I have a 12V power supply rated at 4.5 amps I'll sell you for shipping costs. Where are you located?

[Anonymous No.1215822]

Thanks, I'm in Ireland. I have tons of adapters hanging around the place. I'm sure I probably have one to suit but just don't know what I'm looking for.
Can you tell me what would be best or close to it (higher volts, high amps?)

I did have the belt quite tight. I'll loosen that

[Anonymous No.1215824]

>>1215798
>>1215820
OP could also try a counter weight. That would greatly reduce load and amp use on the motor.

[Anonymous No.1215834]

>>1215824
>counter weight

Like this, though it may need on one each side to prevent binding the screws. It doesn't need to take much weight off, just enough to make it easier for any motor. Also, greasing the threads of the screws will help a lot.

Red: stick that pushes on the bottom of the board that holds the monitor and takes some weight off the screws. A tiny roller on the end would make it a bit better.
Orange: pivot point for stick
Grey block: really heavy weight.

[Anonymous No.1215836]

>>1215834
I forgot to mention, if the counterweight system takes up too much space under the mechanism and monitor, you can set it off to the side and make the stick an L shape so only a small portion of thickness of the stick is under the lift at any time.

[Anonymous No.1215992]

Counterweight on a screw drive might help. Generally it's the roughness on the threads and nut. Those things aren't designed to be linear actuators. Just a thought, but you might try putting flitz on the rod and running the nut back and forth with a drill. Basically trying to polish the surfaces. That or sandpaper and a buffing wheel to remove burrs.
>>1215834
not a good idea. Levers add friction.
A pulley and weight system or balance spring (instead of weight) will be easier to tune and fit.
Give me a sec to cobble up a horrible mspaint sketch.

[Anonymous No.1216001]

>>1215992
More like a sash weight, but the weight can be replaced by a long springy spring thing.

[Anonymous No.1216037]

>>1215992
>>1216001
That "leg" the pulley attaches to is the only thing missing from my original pulley idea. I scrapped it because I figured the monitor was too tall to allow room. Hence the lever with a roller that is shaped like an "L". The stick wouldn't touch it, just a roller.

>tfw i recently had to replace ropes on like 15 sash weights on windows previous faggot owners had painted shut.

[Anonymous No.1216167]

This has become so complicated. Why wouldn't you just use an electric car window mechanism?

[Anonymous No.1216945]

>>1215798
Check also out that the threaded rods don't bind anywhere. If they aren't properly aligned you can't get them to drive. It needs to be possible to pull the line with your hands so that it does rotate the threads.

Or then it is like other anons mentioned, an underpowered source of power you have.

Or if the motor you bought is not the same as the guy used in the video. If people did build tables like these and bought out the original lot of the motors. And the one you have is from another lot, maybe another factory, a shittier version.

[Anonymous No.1216947]

>>1215798
12V 4A adapter would be ideal. i think 19v is over doing it...

[Anonymous No.1216972]

>>1215798
>19v=jerky
when you add power, you get slippage, probably from the belt slipping. belt tension could be low, motor drive pully could be loose, or drive mechanism has too much resistance

[Anonymous No.1216986]

>>1216947

Thanks, I'll try dig one out.

[Anonymous No.1216988]

>>1216945

I did notice that it was a little out of alignment, when I straightened it up it ran a lot smother

[Anonymous No.1217010]

>>1215798
why not skip all the fucking pulleys and belts and just add 2 motors total?